Taffin

Online jewels between Panthère and Serpenti




Online jewelry auctions have become a real revolution for fans of the genre. In fact, they allow you to be present virtually from all over the world, and this will also be the case for the new online auction at Christie’s. The Jewels Online are on sale until December 8, with a selection that includes jewels of various kinds, from ancient to contemporary, as well as diamonds and colored stones. The catalog includes jewels from Maisons and designers such as Belperron, Boucheron, Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Harry Winston, Hermès, Oscar Heyman & Brothers, Raymond Yard, Taffin, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Verdura.

Bulgari, bracciale Serpenti in oro bianco e diamanti
Bulgari, bracciale Serpenti in oro bianco e diamanti

Over half of the sale is offered without reserve and will be on display during Christie’s Luxury Week at the Rockefeller Center galleries in New York City December 2-5. The highest expectations are for an unmounted D-color diamond weighing a hefty 50.06 carats (estimate $2-4 million). Among the jewels are a Panthère ring by Cartier with colored sapphires, multiple gems and diamonds (estimate 40,000-60,000), and the Taj Mahal earrings with diamonds (20,000-30,000) by the same Maison. Another collector’s item is a Serpenti bracelet with Bulgari diamonds (40,000-60,000). The sale also features pieces from private collections, including those of Susan Lasker Brody, the David and Laura Finn Collection, owned by Virginia Kraft-Payson and Bourne Strassburger.
Orecchini Taj Mahal di Cartier in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Taj Mahal di Cartier in oro bianco e diamanti

Anello eternity in oro bianco e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels
Anello eternity in oro bianco e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels
Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels a forma di leopardo
Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels a forma di leopardo
LOT 61 Van Cleef Arpels Onyx and Diamond Pendant and Necklace
Collana di Van Cleef & Arpels in oro, diamanti, onice
LOT 63 Van Cleef Arpels Lapis Lazuli and Gold Vintage Alhambra Necklace
Collana Alhambra di Van Cleef & Arpels in oro e lapislazzuli

Anello di Harry Winston con rubino e diamanti
Anello di Harry Winston con rubino e diamanti

Anello Panthère di Cartier in oro bianco, diamanti e uno zaffiro rosa
Anello Panthère di Cartier in oro bianco, diamanti e uno zaffiro rosa







Schlumberger and Tiffany online with Christie’s




For fans of vintage jewelry, but not limited to, the online jewelry auction organized until 30 September by Christie’s is an opportunity to secure collector’s items. The entire catalog includes 240 lots, including 18 pieces designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. The famous designer has created many jewels that have made history, starting with the Bird on a Rock series of brooches, which in this case are with amethyst, diamonds and rubies or with citrine. Also from Schlumberger are on sale a flaming star-shaped brooch in gold and diamonds, and a brooch in the shape of a dromedary. The auction catalog includes a pair of aquamarine and tsavorite Hemmerle earrings.

Spilla a forma di dromedario di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany in oro, con zaffiri rosa, lapislazzuli, diamanti
Spilla a forma di dromedario di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany in oro, con zaffiri rosa, lapislazzuli, diamanti

Other interesting pieces are signed by famous Maison, such as Cartier with a brooch in diamonds and onyx in the shape of parrots, in addition to the classic panthère, but also jewels by Bulgari, Boucheron, Buccellati, Jar, Oscar Heyman, Seaman Schepps, Taffin and Van Cleef & Arpels. More than half of the lots are offered unreservedly, an aspect appreciated by collectors and buyers.
Orecchini con acquamarina e tsavoriti di Hammerle
Orecchini con acquamarina e tsavoriti di Hammerle

Spilla a forma di pappagalli in oro, platino, diamanti, onice, di Cartier
Spilla a forma di pappagalli in oro, platino, diamanti, onice, di Cartier
Classica Panthèere in oro, diamanti, platino, onice, smeraldi di Cartier
Classica Panthèere in oro, diamanti, platino, onice, smeraldi di Cartier

Bracciale con topazi, tormalina rosa, ametista, citrini, peridoto di Bulgari
Bracciale con topazi, tormalina rosa, ametista, citrini, peridoto di Bulgari

Spilla a forma di stella fiammeggiante in oro 18 carati e diamanti, Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany
Spilla a forma di stella fiammeggiante in oro 18 carati e platino, con diamanti, Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany

Spilla di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany  in oro e platino, rubini, diamanti
Spilla di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany in oro e platino, rubini, diamanti
Spilla di Jean Schlumberger  per Tiffany in oro con citrino e diamanti
Spilla di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany in oro con citrino, rubino e diamanti







Tefaf online with high jewelry




Tefaf New York Fall, a fair of precious and antiques, will be online this year due to the health emergency (1-4 November, with a preview on 30-31 October, 300 exhibitors). At Tefaf, in addition to the rookies we wrote about here, there are prominent jewelers, such as Hong Kong artist-designer Wallace Chan, Hemmerle, Cindy Chao, Taffin, Otto Jakob, as well as jewelry from past designers such as Suzanne Belperron.

Pendente a nappa con perle di Hemmerle
Pendente a nappa con perle di Hemmerle

European jewelry is represented by Hemmerle, a great Maison in Munich that combines the avant-garde with luxury. Refined shapes, surprising combinations of materials are the ingredients of Hemmerle’s jewels. Among the jewels present at Tefaf online, there is a pendant with tassel composed of small natural pearls suspended from a base of silver and white gold, paved with diamonds. The cord is made from smoky quartz beads knitted using a nearly extinct Austrian technique revived from the early 19th century of woven precious gem beads. Each bead is cut and carved and pierced by hand. Otto Jakob also comes from Germany, specializing in small jewels with floral or animal themes. He often uses gold and enamel together with colored stones.

Pendente di Otto Jakob
Pendente di Otto Jakob

French, but a long time resident in New York, James Taffin de Givenchy is another refined jeweler present in the Tefaf review. It is difficult to frame Taffin’s jewels and his Maison in a single style: they are truly out of the ordinary. Like the necklace with large tanzanite accompanied by black pebbles on platinum and rose gold. Really unique.
Taffin, collana con tanzanite e ciottoli
Taffin, collana con tanzanite e ciottoli

From the East, Hong Kong, comes another jeweler-artist always present at Tefaf: Wallace Chan, who presents a brooch in the shape of a butterfly. It is a jewel that highlights Wallace Chan’s fantasy and superfine technique, which uses titanium to maintain the lightness of the jewel. For example, the gemstones on the butterfly’s wings are angled to convey a sense of life and movement. The butterfly also houses an 8.24-carat imperial topaz used for the body of the butterfly, with two emeralds at the end. The brooch also includes rubies, yellow diamonds, orange sapphires, tsavorite garnets and set diamonds. Also from Hong Kong, Cindy Chao (who was born in Taiwan) brings her pieces of high jewelry.For example, the Black Label Masterpiece III Green Plumule 2020 brooch, made with 487 emeralds (17 of these from Colombia) different shapes and sizes, for a total of 172.58 carats.
Spilla farfalla In Love with Spring di Wallace Chan
Spilla farfalla In Love with Spring di Wallace Chan

Cindy Chao, spilla  Masterpiece III Green Plumule Brooch
Cindy Chao, spilla Masterpiece III Green Plumule Brooch

Collana in oro e diamanti di Suzanne Belperron, in vendita da Siegelson
Collana in oro e diamanti di Suzanne Belperron, in vendita da Siegelson

Orecchini di Taffin in giada su platino e oro, con ceramica e zaffiri
Orecchini di Taffin in giada su platino e oro, con ceramica e zaffiri







Tefaf’s new jewelers  

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Many debuts, including two Italians, at Tefaf New York Fall, the prestigious fair of precious and antiques that this year, due to coronavirus, will be online. The two italian news are Gismondi 1754 and Vendorafa. The online fair organized by the European Fine Art Foundation (1-4 November plus a preview 30-31 October, 300 exhibitors) includes a large group of famous jewelers, such as Hong Kong artist-designer Wallace Chan, Hemmerle, Cindy Chao, Taffin, Otto Jakob. We talk about it in another article. But it’s also interesting see who the new jewelers are.

Bracciale della collezione Genesi di Gismondi 1754
Bracciale della collezione Genesi di Gismondi 1754

One of the novelties is represented by Gismondi 1454, which will present the Genesi collection, with jewels that are inspired by the helical spiral of the Nautilus shell. In fact, the Maison is from Genoa, a seaside city. The jewels, in fact, are inspired by the fossils seen by the Ceo Massimo Gismondi at the Natural History Museum. The jewels are composed of 18k rose gold strands that describe soft ellipses, paved with diamonds and topped and drop-shaped white ceramic with gold edges.
Anello Onda di Vendorafa
Anello Onda di Vendorafa

The other Italian brand debuting, the Maison of Valenza Vendorafa, offers its classic gold creations, such as the Onda ring. The jewel features a typical Vendorafa workmanship, with hammered yellow gold together with a polished finish band and a line of small diamonds on the edge.
Pod ring di Nicholas Liou con un diamante blu-verde e diamanti bianchi
Pod ring di Nicholas Liou con un diamante blu-verde e diamanti bianchi

From the East, however, the new entry is Nicholas Lieou, a high-end jewelry designer based in Hong Kong. We already saw her jewels last year in GemGèneve, but theis fair won’t be held this year. Nicholas Lieou started out as an apprentice for London-based jeweler Shaun Leane. And he was also design director for high-end bespoke jewelry for Tiffany & Co. He has recently launched a capsule collection in collaboration with Sotheby’s Diamonds: one of the jewels he presents is the Pod Ring, with a fancy cushion-cut diamond in color 4.40 carat bluish-green surrounded by a pavé of white diamonds on platinum.
Orecchini Pearl Raind di Tatiana Verstraeten
Orecchini Pearl Raind di Tatiana Verstraeten

Finally, another new name for Tefaf is that of Tatiana Verstraeten, a Belgian designer who prefers jewels with long fringes, such as the earrings with a shower of pearls of the image on this page. Tatiana practiced at Chanel under the supervision of Karl Lagerfeld and acquired the secrets of French master craftsmen. A year ago she opened a showroom on Place Vendôme and, as if that were not enough, she allocated part of the proceeds from the sale of her fringed earrings to UN Women France, with the aim of promoting gender equality and the emancipation of women. women. Cate Blanchett and Eva Longoria, who bought her jewelry, appreciate it. Federico Graglia
Massimo Gismondi
Massimo Gismondi

Nicholas Lieou
Nicholas Lieou

Tatiana Verstraeten
Tatiana Verstraeten. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Augusto Ungarelli (Vendorafa)
Augusto Ungarelli (Vendorafa)







High jewelery at Pad London





Pad London returns with a group of Maison and high jewelery designer. Here’s who they are ♦ ︎

It’s called Pad London and is the sister of the similar Parisian fair. But this is no less important, at least for jewelry. Indeed, the International Exhibition for Modern Art, Design, Decorative Arts, Photography, Jewelery & Tribal Art (30 September – 6 October 2019) offers the lucky ones who can buy high-end jewelery pieces some masterpieces by selected Maison or designers.

Ciondolo con opale di fuoco di Taffin
Ciondolo con opale di fuoco di Taffin

In Berkeley Square, London, United Kingdom, 69 major international galleries will be displaying pieces of contemporary design, glass and ceramics, and collectible jewelry. Like those of the French designer Lorenz Bäumer, former artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s fine jewelry. But also by Boghossian, Fabio Salini, Taffin, Elisabetta Cipriani Wearable Art, Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie, Karry Berreby, Glenn Spiro, Hemmerle, Objet Emotion, Valery Demure, The Beautiful Watch, Suzanne Syz, Walid Akkad.

Pad London
Berkeley Square, Berkeley Square, Mayfair, London W1J 5AX
PHONE
+33 (0) 1 53 30 85 20
From 30 September to 6 October 2019
OPENING TIME
Monday: collectors preview 11: 00-20: 00, VIP opening Tuesday 11: 00-20: 00, from Wednesday to Saturday 11: 00-20: 00, Sunday 11: 00-18: 00
www.pad-fairs.com





Anna Hu con la collana Monet Waterlilies
Anna Hu con la collana Monet Waterlilies

Orecchini di smeraldi di Glenn Spiro
Orecchini di smeraldi di Glenn Spiro
Bracciale di ebano, argento, oro bianco e tsavorite di Hemmerle
Bracciale di ebano, argento, oro bianco e tsavorite di Hemmerle
Orologio in esposizione da Karry Berry
Orologio in esposizione da Karry Berry
Anello con moissanite di Boghossian
Anello con moissanite di Boghossian

Anelli di Elisabetta Cipriani
Anelli di Elisabetta Cipriani







May’s Tefaf jewels





Suzanne Belperron and Taffin protagonists of the spring edition of Tefaf in New York ♦ ︎
Founded in fairly recent times, in 1988, Tefaf is considered the world’s leading organization of art, antiques and design. It is a high level fair, with exceptional pieces. Also of jewels. But over time, Tefaf has multiplied by three: in Maastricht it covers 7,000 years of art history; New York Spring focuses on art and modern and contemporary design and New York Fall covers decorative and refined art from antiquity to the 1920s. To a certain extent, jewels never fail in any of these manifestations, even though the greatest quantity of pieces can be found at the Maastricht appointment in March.
Now, however, it is time of New York (4-8 May 2018). Also in this case there are interesting pieces. With two authors, in particular: Suzanne Belperon and James Claude Taffin de Givenchy, founder of the Taffin brand. Among the first, the catalog includes pieces with a collar-shaped collar in gold, 40 centimeters, from 1940, but also a geometric ring in silver and hematite of the ’30s, or a pair of clip-on earrings with pearls, platinum and diamonds. Of Taffin, a rose gold ring with garnet and ceramic, a brooch with spessartite cabochon and two earrings with diamonds in gold, ceramic and rose gold. In short, among many paintings, sculptures and antique furniture there is no shortage of jewelry to see. Federico Graglia



Bracciale art déco  con corallo, onice e madreperla
Bracciale art déco con corallo, onice e madreperla
Suzanne Belperron, collana in oro e diamanti, circa 1940
Suzanne Belperron, collana in oro e diamanti, circa 1940
Suzanne Belperron, orecchini in platino con perle e diamanti, anni Cinquanta
Suzanne Belperron, orecchini in platino con perle e diamanti, anni Cinquanta
Reza, anello Swing, in oro giallo e bianco con diamanti
Reza, anello Swing, in oro giallo e bianco con diamanti
Taffin, orecchini asimmetrici con diamanti brown, ceramica e oro rosa
Taffin, orecchini asimmetrici con diamanti brown, ceramica e oro rosa
Taffin, spilla con spessartite cabochon, zaffiri birmani, argento ossidato, oro bianco e rosa
Taffin, spilla con spessartite cabochon, zaffiri birmani, argento ossidato, oro bianco e rosa
Taffin, anello in oro rosa con ceramica bianca e granato Malaya
Taffin, anello in oro rosa con ceramica bianca e granato Malaya
Suzanne Belperron, anello geometrico in argento e ematite, anni Trenta
Suzanne Belperron, anello geometrico in argento e ematite, anni Trenta
Cartier, collana revival antico Egitto. Realizzata con una placca di lapislazzuli scolpita, turchesi a forma di navette, all'interno di una cornice di diamanti a taglio circolare e smeraldi con taglio a calibro, diamanti
Cartier, collana revival antico Egitto. Realizzata con una placca di lapislazzuli scolpita, turchesi a forma di navette, all’interno di una cornice di diamanti a taglio circolare e smeraldi con taglio a calibro, diamanti

Collana di perle naturali grigie e diamanti
Collana di perle naturali grigie e diamanti







Taffin, 20 years in 300 shots

A book about the brilliant designer James Taffin de Givenchy: 300 jewelry images out of the ordinary.
It is unlikely that a book can be the mirror of a person. Even the biographies, inevitably, fail to capture exactly what the appearance and character of the subject they are talking about. A picture book, however, has some advantages: it leaves to the eye of those who browse the judgment and reduces the descriptions written to a minimum. This is the case of Taffin, book written by James Taffin de Givenchy with the journalist Stephanie LaCava (Rizzoli USA, $ 115 or € 118 on Amazon, 413 pages, 4.1 kilograms). The book collects 20 years of career of the designer which is grandson of Hubert de Givenchy, founder of the fashion house and cosmetics. Instead of dealing with perfumes or clothing, Taffin, after studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, is went to Christie’s, in the jewelry department. After the auctions, he went to work from Verdura, a brand that has also inherited the drawings by Suzanne Belperron. But another of his myths is Jar. In 1996 he founded his own Maison in New York, with the idea of ​​producing jewels worthy of his creative patterns. The book contains over 300 images of the greatest works of Taffin, with drawings, pictures and atelier of the designer. A designer who has successfully combined the finest materials with surprising choices, such as metal of a military rifle, wood and ceramics. And that is now immortalized in the pages of a book. Federico Graglia

Collana con ametiste su oro giallo
Collana con ametiste su oro giallo
Anello doppio con ametista
Anello doppio con ametista
Orecchini pendenti con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Orecchini pendenti con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
James-De-Givenchy
James Taffin de Givenchy
Orecchini pendenti con diamanti, granati e oro rosa
Orecchini pendenti con diamanti, granati e oro rosa
Orecchini con topazio, zaffiri del Montana, ceramica azzurra, oro (dal libro Taffin)
Orecchini con topazio, zaffiri del Montana, ceramica azzurra, oro (dal libro Taffin)
Orecchini in cristallo di rocca, calcedonio, diamanti, spinelli, su platino e oro rosa
Orecchini in cristallo di rocca, calcedonio, diamanti, spinelli, su platino e oro rosa
«Taffin», Rizzoli
«Taffin», Rizzoli
Anello con zaffiri viola, ceramica blu, oro rosa
Anello con zaffiri viola, ceramica blu, oro rosa