spinel

Lauren Harwell Godfrey, geometries and perfumes




Adidas, Levi’s and Ray-Ban. But after 15 years Lauren Harwell Godfrey has grown tired of working, albeit with a creative role, for brands intended for mass-market. So she went to California to found in 2016 Harwell Godfrey, a line of 18ct gold jewelery and handmade gemstones. But her first serious jewelry collection was launched in 2017 at Paris Fashion Week, with For Future Reference.

Bracciale a disegno geometrico in oro con smeraldi
Bracciale in oro con smeraldi
In short, Lauren Harwell Godfrey is in the strange position of almost debutante, but with so much experience behind his back. Certainly, she presented herself to the public with its own identity, a style already defined. We must therefore forgive her belief that the stones also have magical powers (healing, spirituality, etc.), even if the only power they really have is to make the women who wear them happy. In short, we fly over the baggage of medieval convictions applied to jewelry, to focus on the reality of her style: inlays, enamels, pavé, engravings, stone cuts, are used in an original way. As in the large necklace of spinels of different colors and shades. And often the jewelry is combined with perfumes selected by the designer. Also worth mentioning are the medallions that open and may contain pills.

Pendente Pyramid in oro 18 carati, lapislazzuli, zaffiri
Pendente Pyramid in oro 18 carati, lapislazzuli, zaffiri
Pendente a forma di spicchio di luna in oro, diamanti, madreperla
Pendente a forma di spicchio di luna in oro, diamanti, madreperla
Lauren Harwell Godfrey
Lauren Harwell Godfrey

Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo 18 carati con corallo, ametista, turchese, peridoto, perle
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati con corallo, ametista, turchese, peridoto, perle

Anello in oro giallo 18 carati, con diamanti, zaffiri multicolori, topazio azzurro e dettagli in ametista
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati, con diamanti, zaffiri multicolori, topazio azzurro e dettagli in ametista

Anello modello cigar band in oro, turchesi, tormalina
Anello modello cigar band in oro, turchesi, tormalina







Ben Day luxurious rock

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He defines himself as dyslexic, grew up with comics and the punk of the seventies, goldsmith, creator and gem hunter: here you are Ben Day ♦

Perhaps those of Ben Day could be called rock jewelry. In London in his shop located between historic Huguenot houses of Spitalfields, the designer from 30 years goes in his own direction: large colored gemstones such as rubies, tanzanite, chiroprasio, along with sets visible gold, angular shapes or rounded, powerful. It seems to listen with your eyes a band that crank up. But luxury. For example, his collection features rare opals, which combine with other stones forming an ever-changing kaleidoscope of colors suspended.

Anello in oro 18 carati con spinello silver e rosa e zircone blu
Anello in oro 18 carati con spinello silver e rosa e zircone blu

Pink diamonds, volcanic obsidian rings with radiant silver thread, red hot rubies, tourmalines ranging from dark blue to neon green. Can not go unnoticed when you wear a jewel of Ben Day. He, unlike many of his colleagues in London, after the college he followed his self-taught designer road (followed only one year course in jewelry), helped by wife, who has the same passion. And it is also rather shy: you can’t find too many news about him. But just see these images to understand something of his work.

Anello in oro 18 carati con fordite e diamanti multicolori (trattati)
Anello in oro 18 carati con fordite e diamanti multicolori (trattati)
Pendente in oro con kunzite rutilata e diamanti
Pendente in oro con kunzite rutilata e diamanti
Anello in oro con opale e diamanti brown
Anello in oro con opale e diamanti brown
Orecchini in oro con opale, zaffiri, granati demantoidi
Orecchini in oro con opale, zaffiri, granati demantoidi
Orecchini in oro con zaffiri blu e rosa, spinello neon, tsavorite, acquamarina
Orecchini in oro con zaffiri blu e rosa, spinello neon, tsavorite, acquamarina

Anello in oro e diamanti
Anello in oro e diamanti







The empire of Nadia Morgenthaler

The (British) empire still strikes with the Maharaja-Belle Époque style of Nadia Morgenthaler, one of the new high-jewelery brands ♦ ︎
Can a pretty Swiss designer, who works in Geneva, live in a different universe than the clean and a little conventional Swiss society? Yes, it can, and there is no need to be rebels to propose something different. You can if your name is Nadia Morgenthaler and from five years you have inaugurated a new path in the world of high jewelry. We could call it Maharaja-Époque style, that of India part of the British Empire. Because the designer’s jewels have their own independent life that passes between the architectures that are not at all minimal, that went out of fashion between the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, but also that sort of Indian baroque that traced an era in jewelry. Small pearls that draw a rounded line, spinels, rock crystal, tourmaline, small diamonds. Stones with not excessively saturated nuances, which are often hooked as pendants. The entire construction of the jewels, even the smallest ones, is never simple, yet maintains the balance of the volumes.

Orecchini con tormaline , diamanti, perle
Orecchini con tormaline , diamanti, perle

Just look at the type of jewelry of Nadia Morgenthaler to realize that they are unique pieces, which next to the fantasy linked to other eras are made with modern Swiss precision. No have been exception by the jewels shown at GemGenève, where the Maison has placed itself in a special area for young emerging designers. Although Nadia Morgenthaler has emerged for some time, and not just since 2013.

Pendente con cristallo di rocca, perle naturali, diamanti
Pendente con cristallo di rocca, perle naturali, diamanti
Nadia Morgenthaler, particolare di una collana con spinelli, perle naturali, diamanti
Nadia Morgenthaler, particolare di una collana con spinelli, perle naturali, diamanti
Anello con spinello, perle, diamanti
Anello con spinello, perle, diamanti

The women as goddesses by Paul Wild






Spinels, tourmaline, emeralds, tanzanite … The incredible compositions of precious stones created by Paul Wild for women like dee ♦ ︎
There are people who have a gray life. There are others who have a color life. And there are others that see more nuances than others. Markus Wild, CEO of Paul Wild, is part of this small group of ultra sensitive to the invisible photon waves that determine what we see. Indeed, we often see without seeing. Because you have to have not only special eyes, but also a sensitivity out of the ordinary to choose, connect and compose strategies of gems in jewels that are not yet jewels. Which they will be.
Paul Wild is a German company that since the Twenties deals with buying and trading precious and semi-precious stones. But it is also a unique case in which buying and selling stones is accompanied by the ability to tune in to the tastes of the market and, often, to precede trends and evolutions in demand. Furthermore, the company’s proposals are always contextualized by an idea.
For 2018, for example, Paul Wild thinks to the “growing awareness of women’s issues is sounding a call to action that is empowering women in the workplace, in government and in their public and private lives”. Perhaps it is a unique case of social sensitivity towards women in the jewelry world.
As goddesses

Alongside these good principles there is, of course, the work of the company, that is, the choice and the proposal of the stones, this year associated with the goddesses of Greek mythology. For example, the red «dramatic, warm and captivating». Imagining jewelry that suits the goddess of love and passion, Aphrodite, Paul Wild created patterns with red and pink spinels from Tanzania. The most notable is a set of nine red heart-shaped spinels for a total of over 112 carats; an earring inspired by flowers with 80 mauve spinels weighing 21 carats with two tanzanites for a total of 9.78 carats; and two single red spinels: a 17.15 carat marquise-cut spinel and a 11.67-carat heart-shaped spinel.

Set per orecchini con tanzanite e tormalina rossa
Set per orecchini con tanzanite e tormalina rossa

The second color is blue, that of the sea and the sky, associated with open spaces, freedom, imagination and inspiration. Inspired by Amphitrite, goddess of the sea, Paul Wild created tanzanite designs from lilac blue to deep purple blue. As an exceptional group of 31 pieces, earrings and rings of natural tanzanite for a total of almost 252 carats. Equally noteworthy is a bracelet of four rows of tanzanite and rubellite composed of 78 pieces for a total of about 144 carats.
Thinking of Artemis the goddess of the earth, however, the Maison has designed a necklace with 208 emerald cabochons from Zambia and nine faceted pink tourmalines totaling almost 358 carats; a multi-row organic bracelet with 113 Zambian emerald cabochons weighing about 315 carats with a 25.65 carat rubellite. In the Pantone palette there are shades like Spring Crocus and Pink Lavender. In this spectrum of colors, Paul Wild has brought together outstanding sapphires and amethysts. Like a necklace with an earring with amethyst cabochon and navette cut stones for a total of about 190 carats with a 139 carat-shaped amethyst rose pendant. Or a suite of old cut amethyst and morganite of 47 pieces for a total of over 189 carats.
Finally, the Paraiba tourmaline. Here, then, different layouts with tourmaline: a necklace of earrings, earrings and imaginative rings consisting of 60 pieces for a total of over 108 carats, as well as a 30-carat cabochon frog carved that would have been pleasant, unique ring of its kind. From Brazil, an organic necklace and earring composed of 160 pieces for a total of about 58 carats, and a dreamy pear-shaped Paraiba of 5.7 carats for an excellent solitaire. Unique, beautiful and confident, perhaps there is no better gem than the Paraiba tourmaline for a woman who shakes her inner goddess. To watch and admire. Alessia Mongrando




Set per collier con smeraldi colombiani e tormalina rossa
Set per collier con smeraldi colombiani e tormalina rossa
Set per orecchini con 80 spinellii e due tanzaniti
Set per orecchini con 80 spinellii e due tanzaniti
Set per orecchini con tanzaniti, tsavoriti, tormalina e spinello
Set per orecchini con tanzaniti, tsavoriti, tormalina e spinello
Spinello tagliato a forma di cuore
Spinello tagliato a forma di cuore
Set per collier con zaffiri violetti
Set per collier con zaffiri violetti
Set per bracciale con tanzaniti e rubellite
Set per bracciale con tanzaniti e rubellite
Set per collier, anello e orecchini di spinello
Set per collier, anello e orecchini di spinello

Set per collier e orecchini di tormalina paraiba
Set per collier e orecchini di tormalina paraiba







Boucheron at the Tsar’s Court

Boucheron celebrates imperial Russia with a collection of jewels that would have loved by the Tsars ♦︎
Between France and Russia, before and after the October Revolution, there has always been a very close link. Escapeed aristocrats or revolutionaries in exile have found shelter in the tolerant Transalpine state, along with musicians and painters. In Russia the official language of the nobility was French, idiom used in the Tsar’s court and in the good society. The jewelery industry has also maintained a privileged channel between Paris and Moscow. Boucheron remembers it, with the Hunt Impérial jewelry collection. The luxury here walks on the soft, silent snowy surface that covers the big country, bridge between the West and the East, when the winter starts.
Boucheron, more, was the first French jeweler to open a venue in Moscow in 1897 when the tsars still reigned. Boucheron has revisited three of its main themes: Nature (the Lumiere de Nuit line describes the aesthetics of the Nordic landscape), Couture (Femmes Boréales idealizes the beauty of women’s of North), and Architecture (The Anneau d’Or is inspired by the imperial cities of Russia, Moscow and Saint-Petersburg). The pieces are extraordinary, starting with Baïkal, a necklace-corset with an oval aquamarine of 78.33 carats, woolen stones and cultured pearls, diamond paved, white gold. Other jewels, however, remind the snow crystals, or the onion domes of the Kremlin. Margherita Andorno



Composizione grafica con diversi pezzi di alta gioielleria Boucheron della collezione Hiver Impérial. Il grande flocon Impérial ha al suo interno orecchini con perle (gli occhi), un orecchino zon zaffiro (il naso), due orecchini Baikal (la bocca)
Composizione grafica con diversi pezzi di alta gioielleria Boucheron della collezione Hiver Impérial. Il grande flocon Impérial ha al suo interno orecchini con perle (gli occhi), un orecchino con zaffiro (il naso), due orecchini Baikal (la bocca)

Anello Boule de Neige, oro bianco, diamanti, cristallo di rocca
Anello Boule de Neige, oro bianco, diamanti, cristallo di rocca

BaÏkal, orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina taglio a pera
BaÏkal, orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina taglio a pera
Banquise, anello in oro bianco con diamante ovale e perle
Banquise, anello in oro bianco con diamante ovale e perle
Collier BaÏkal, in oro bianco, acquamarine, perle
Collier BaÏkal, in oro bianco, acquamarine, perle
Collier Lumière de Nuit in oro bianco, diamanti, cristallo di rocca
Collier Lumière de Nuit in oro bianco, diamanti, cristallo di rocca
Collier L'Anneau d'Or in oro bianco e diamanti
Collier L’Anneau d’Or in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco con smeraldo dello Zambia, diamanti
Anello in oro bianco con smeraldo dello Zambia taglio cuscino, diamanti

Nevesta, collier in oro bianco e diamanti
Nevesta, collier in oro bianco e diamanti







Van Cleef & Arpels reveals its Secret

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The secret of Van Cleef & Arpels in the Le Scret collection is a very high quality jewelery. And full of surprises ♦ ︎

The secret of Van Cleef et Arpels was well guarded: a collection of high jewelery, masterpieces which required until 275 days for a necklace. In all, the Le Secret collection has a hundred pieces, some of which conceal a secret in the secret. For example, a bird with colored feathers can open one of the two wings to unveil a small newborn. The top of a ring can be rotated to show a gold engraved band or hide other rings. A bracelet with butterflies can blink the wings to display the hands of a tiny watch. Secrets kept and unveiled, and so, concealed just to be shown with greater pleasure: surprise is not just in the overwhelming technique of the French Maison craftsmen, who have hidden phrases, quotations and dedications in the most striking spaces of jewels, but also in exuberant forms that have the jewels. In addition to the rich necklaces, composite rings, exuberant earrings, there are brooches that fall into that kind of chameleon jewelry, that is, that it takes shapes and colors of objects, plants or animals.
On the other hand, Van Cleef & Arpels’s has just invented the secret in jewelery, as in the case of the secret setting, a patented system that allows the stones to be stacked without any visible metal grippers.

Anello Labyrinthe, con un diamante giallo a taglio cuscino da 13 carati, onice, oro bianco e giallo, diamanti
Anello Labyrinthe, con un diamante giallo a taglio cuscino da 13 carati, onice, oro bianco e giallo, diamanti
Van Cleef & Arpels, orologio Papillon, con-movimento meccanico a carica manuale. Uno smeraldo colombiano di 14,57 carati, oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi, spinelli neri, onice e madreperla
Van Cleef & Arpels, orologio Papillon, con-movimento meccanico a carica manuale. Uno smeraldo colombiano di 14,57 carati, oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi, spinelli neri, onice e madreperla
Colombe Mystérieuse. Spilla con rubini mystery setting, diamanti e smeraldi (gli occhi)
Colombe Mystérieuse. Spilla con rubini mystery setting, diamanti e smeraldi (gli occhi)
Anello Fleur Bleu, in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi, zaffiro
Anello Fleur Bleu, in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi, zaffiro
Spilla Cupido, con uno zaffiro arancione a forma di pera di 2,74 carati dello Sri Lanka, abbinato a uno zaffiro viola a forma di pera da 1,36 carati, una rubellite a forma di cuore di 12,04 carati, con diamanti e zaffiri
Spilla Cupido, con uno zaffiro arancione a forma di pera di 2,74 carati dello Sri Lanka, abbinato a uno zaffiro viola a forma di pera da 1,36 carati, una rubellite a forma di cuore di 12,04 carati, con diamanti e zaffiri
Bracciale Dentelle, con diamanti e rubini, può avere l'opalescenza della madreperla o il nero dell'onice
Bracciale Dentelle, con diamanti e rubini, può avere l’opalescenza della madreperla o il nero dell’onice
Oiseau sur la branche, collana trasformabile con perle di rubini birmani
Oiseau sur la branche, collana trasformabile con perle di rubini birmani
Sous Son Aile, clip con rubini, diamanti e zaffiri: l'ala dell'uccello si muove e svela un altro piccolo uccellino
Sous Son Aile, clip con rubini, diamanti e zaffiri: l’ala dell’uccello si muove e svela un altro piccolo uccellino
The Séraphîta: un anello con zaffiro e diamanti che nasconde ben quattro segreti
The Séraphîta: un anello con zaffiro e diamanti che nasconde ben quattro segreti
Nello con rubellite, diamanti e zaffiri
Nello con rubellite, diamanti e zaffiri

Collier con diamanti e ametiste
Collier con diamanti e ametiste







Chaumet, here it’s the party

Chaumet in a festival music: four magnificent high jewelery lines ♦ ︎
High jewelery is a feast for the eyes, though not for the wallet. So there is one of the historic Place Vendôme Maison (born in 1780) celebrating the double. It is called Chaumet est une fête its new collection of high jewelery. But it is a four-time party, how many are the ones in which the collection is subdivided. Since it is alluded to a great social evening, the times are those used by great music. Dance music with the Valses d’Hiver or syncopated with Rhapsodie Transantlantique as the Rhapsody in Blue by Gershwin, respectful of the classic tradition with the Pastorale Anglaise (dedicated to the Glyndebourne Festival) or the world of the opera with Aria Passionata (inspired by La Scala Theater Milan).
The Pastorale, for example, explores reasons through the use of green color: obviously these are valuable emeralds of the Muzo, Colombia mines.

Chaumet, Aria passionata
Chaumet, Aria passionata

Complex jewelery masterpieces, delicate goldsmiths work and magnificent stones: it is enough to say that the Necklace of the Pastoral line costs about 2 million, while the average jewelry price is about 400,000 euros. Aria Passionata is, however, consistent with its name, a red suite of rubies, garnets, associated with pink gold and diamonds. The tenor and soprano tunes engaged in melodrama classics turn into bouquet-shaped pins (but not to be cast on stage as a performance tribute). Rhapsody in Blue uses white gold, diamonds, tanzanite, tourmaline, chrysoberyl: many different shades as you expect when listening to a music rhapsody. Finally, Valses d’Hiver is a dance around soft, refined, white gold, diamonds and pearls – light and turbulent as a step between stuccoes and the vaults of a frescoed salon. Giulia Netrese




Anello Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, smeraldo a cuscino verde brillante di 11.74 carati, smeraldi e rubini, zaffiri e diamanti
Anello Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, smeraldo a cuscino verde brillante di 11.74 carati, smeraldi e rubini, zaffiri e diamanti

Collier Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, grande smeraldo Muzo, rubini, zaffiri e diamanti
Collier Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, grande smeraldo Muzo, rubini, zaffiri e diamanti
La collezione Pastorale Anglaise
La collezione Pastorale Anglaise

Orecchini Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, smeraldi, rubini, zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, smeraldi, rubini, zaffiri e diamanti





Spilla Aria Passionata, oro e lacca rosa, insieme con un rhodolite ovale di 22.51 carati, 2 rubini cabochon di 5,55 carati, un granato ovale, baguette e rotondo, rubino baguette e diamanti taglio brillante
Spilla Aria Passionata, oro e lacca rosa, insieme con un rhodolite ovale di 22.51 carati, 2 rubini cabochon di 5,55 carati, un granato ovale, baguette e rotondo, rubino baguette e diamanti taglio brillante

Orecchini Aria Passionata, oro e lacca rosa, rhodolite, rubini cabochon, granato, diamanti
Orecchini Aria Passionata, oro e lacca rosa, rhodolite, rubini cabochon, granato, diamanti
Collier trasformabile Aria Passionata, lacca rosa e oro, 3 granati Rhodolite ovali di 16.28 carati, 14,25 carati e 10.96 carati, 3 rubini cabochon 6,25 carati, 4,89 carati e 3 15 carati, granato baguette rodolite, ovale e rotonda, rubini baguette, sfere di rubino, onice e diamanti
Collier trasformabile Aria Passionata, lacca rosa e oro, 3 granati Rhodolite ovali di 16.28 carati, 14,25 carati e 10.96 carati, 3 rubini cabochon 6,25 carati, 4,89 carati e 3 15 carati, granato baguette rodolite, ovale e rotonda, rubini baguette, sfere di rubino, onice e diamanti
Collana Rhapsodie Transatlantique, in oro bianco e giallo, morganite cuscino, crisoberillo ovale, topazio imperiale, tormalina rosa, diamanti di diverso taglio, granati Umba
Collana Rhapsodie Transatlantique, in oro bianco e giallo, morganite cuscino, crisoberillo ovale, topazio imperiale, tormalina rosa, diamanti di diverso taglio, granati Umba
Anello Rhapsodye Atlantique, in oro bianco e giallo, impostato con uno zaffiro Padparadscha ovale da 10.11 carati di Ceylon, uno zaffiro viola ovale taglio di 7,37 carati, granati Umba e diamanti
Anello Rhapsodie Transatlantique, in oro bianco e giallo, impostato con uno zaffiro Padparadscha ovale da 10.11 carati di Ceylon, uno zaffiro viola ovale taglio di 7,37 carati, granati Umba e diamanti
La collezione Rhapsodie Transantlantique
La collezione Rhapsodie Transantlantique
Diadema Valses d'Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle
Diadema Valses d’Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle
Chaumet, spilla Valses d'Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle
Chaumet, spilla Valses d’Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle

Chaumet, colelzione Valses d'Hiver
Chaumet, colelzione Valses d’Hiver