rubellite Archives | gioiellis.com

The palette of Campbellian

Published on August 18, 2023

Tourmaline Neon BlueGreen, Platinum Ring, Diamond, Garnet, Spinel

Fabulous stones, strong colors, magical combinations: here are the jewels of Bella Campbellian, specialist in unusual combinations ♦

Do you like earrings and rings with very colored gemstones? In this case the Campbellian Collection it’s for you. The brand was founded by an expert in physics, no less. But also passionate about dogs, who lives with her husband and son in New Jersey, USA. Her name is Bella Campbell and is the creative mind and founder of Campbellian. In addition to a Masters in Physics at the Georgia State University, she is an expert in marketing as well as gems, and began her career as Associate Buyer for The Fine Jewelry Department at Macy’s, New York.

Orecchini con pietra luna rainbow, zaffiri rosa, diamanti — Rainbow Moonstone and Pink Sapphire Earrings with Diamond Accent

It is easy to deduce the type of jewelry she offers: especially earrings and rings that shine thanks to the compositions of stones as Paraiba tourmaline, spinel, rubellite, tsavorite, tanzanite, moon stone, but also opal and zircon. Often these stones are chosen for their unusual color: as in the case of the stone blue moon or green garnets. There is also stones not very known as the grossular, this a stone that takes on different colors too. So, if the compositions of the jewels from a geometrical point of view are quite traditional, the one that stands out right away is, however, the coloring resulting from the combination of stones, often mounted on platinum. If you like the jewels that are immediately noticeable, then look at these pictures.

Anello con pietra luna arcobaleno e diamanti — ARainbow moonstone and diamond ring

Anello in oro bianco, rubellite, rubini, diamanti — Ring in white gold, rubellite, rubies, diamonds

Anello in platino e oro bianco con tormalina Paraiba e grossular — Ring in platinum and white gold with Paraiba tourmaline and grossular

Ciondolo in oro con diamanti, spinello rosa e viola, tormalina magenta — Gold pendant with diamonds, pink and purple spinel, magenta tourmaline

Orecchini in oro bianco, tormalina verde menta, granati champagne e verdi, tormalina neon, diamanti — Earrings in white gold, mint green tourmaline, champagne and green garnets, neon tourmaline, diamonds

Orecchini con pietra luna arcobaleno e zaffiro rosa, diamanti — Earrings with rainbow moonstone and pink sapphire, diamonds

Orecchini con rubini, diamanti, opale — Earrings with rubies, diamonds, opal

Orecchini in oro rosa con zirconi blu e diamanti — Rose gold earrings with blue zircons and diamonds

All about rubellite

Published on July 22, 2023

Sicis, anello con rubellite, diamanti, micro mosaico. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Jewelers and wearers like it: rubellite is an increasingly used stone. But what is a rubellite?

It is red like a ruby, but it is not a ruby: rubellite is a gem of a different kind. While ruby belongs to the corundum genus, rubellite is a tourmaline that is scientifically classified among the silicates and is a variety of elbaite. But this matters little if you are not geologists or gemologists. Because rubellite above all has another quality: it is very beautiful and appreciated.

Anello con rubellite e diamanti — Ring with rubellite and diamonds

The history of rubellite
The stone was also known in antiquity, but often confused. In fact, there were no tools to distinguish a rubellite from a spinel, garnet or ruby. The first rubellites arrived in Europe from the East already in Roman times. Curiously, a rubellite was confused by scholars of the time such as Theophrastus and Pliny the Elder with lyncurius, a kind of gem obtained from the crystallization of animal urine. The stones arrived in Europe in greater numbers with Dutch merchant ships at the beginning of the seventeenth century, but the stone only spread in the eighteenth century, even if it was confused with the ruby. Many gemstones in the treasury of Tsar Peter I of Russia, believed to be rubies, are now classified as rubellite.

Collana con diamanti e rubellite — Necklace with diamonds and rubellite

The property
If you hope stones have an influence on your mood, physique or health take an elevator to the Middle Ages. Stones are stones, they have no magical properties except in the Harry Potter books. But, of course, a red rubellite will make any woman happy who receives it as a gift. The Romans, however, believed that rubellite possessed a secret force. The stone for this was often carved in the shape of animals and used as an amulet. In Asia, on the other hand, especially in China, rubellite was used in the past to make the clasps that adorned the clothes of Chinese mandarins.

Vanleles, anello con rubellite taglio pera, con rubini e diamanti — Vanleles diamond and rubellite necklace, pear cut rubellite ring, set with rubies and diamonds

Color
Rubellite is red. But it can have different shades, from intense pink to magenta to ruby red, but in some cases also with a tendency to purple and, on the contrary, apricot orange. The intensity and hue are due to the amount of manganese and lithium. Another factor that characterizes rubellite is the frequent presence of inclusions, i.e. small imperfections contained within the gem, for example due to the presence of tiny minerals.

Spilla in oro rosa con diamanti e rubellite — Ganesh brooch in rose gold with diamonds and rubellite

The look
Rubellites can be composed of crystals of different types. This factor also determines the type of cut. Stones formed from prismatic crystals are cut in the shape of steps, those with smaller crystals tend to be used as round or cabochon gemstones, but also in oval or teardrop shapes.

Where is it
Many rubellites come from Burma, but the most valuable are those from Brazil and Nigeria, near the city of Ibadan. Rubellite from Mozambique is also highly valued, famous for its exceptional lack of inclusions and for its very intense and pure colour. Unfortunately, however, the mine is now exhausted. Other gems are extracted from the Ural Mountains in Russia. Again: rubellites are found near the city of San Diego in California, but also in Madagascar and even, in Italy, on the island of Elba.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, rubellite — Ring in white gold, diamonds, rubellite

How much does a rubellite cost?
As with other gems, rubellite is also all about weight and quality. An intense and deep color makes a gem more valuable. But the other aspect to take into account is transparency and the quantity or absence of inclusions: the more the gem has an intense red hue and is without defects, the higher its value will be. Finally, obviously the weight counts, which is measured in carats. If you want to get an idea of the retail value of rubellite, you can easily consult the dealers on the internet. However, the value of the stone is also linked to the jewel on which it is mounted. An established brand is usually a guarantee of being able to maintain the value of a jewel over time.

Anello in titanio con rubellite e diamanti — Titanium ring with rubellite and diamonds by Filippo G&G

How to clean
Rubellite cleans like all other sufficiently hard gemstones. Just immerse it in a basin of water with one or two drops of soap, leave it for ten minutes, and then rub it gently with a toothbrush with soft bristles, finally rinse. But be careful that more delicate materials, such as pearls and opals, are not present on the jewel.

Anello in oro bianco, rubellite e rubini — Ring in white gold, rubellite and rubies

Gems that look the same

Published on August 14, 2022

Campus

Beware of false friends in jewelry. Or, better, don’t buy stones that have different values, but a similar appearance. Similar, but not the same. Yet, not only authoritative gemologists have fallen into the misunderstanding, but also customers willing to pay figures with many zeros and even crowned heads. Do you want an example? Numerous precious stones belonging to the treasury of Tsar Peter I of Russia, long believed to be rubies, were later classified as rubellite. The same gem, the ruby, also fooled the London royals: the so-called Black Prince Ruby of about 170 carats mounted on the British imperial crown is actually not a ruby, but a spinel, placed next to the Cullinan II diamond, this authentic . In short, stones with the same color and quite similar. But one is worth more than the other.

Al centro della corona il Rubino del Principe Nero, che in realtà è uno spinello

Ruby and spinel. Both are red stones, although the spinel can also take on other shades, for example these stones can also be black. Many spinels used in jewelry have a color and clarity very similar to that of ruby and sapphire (two stones that are varieties of corundum). Not only that: spinel is often found in deposits adjacent to those of these two most precious stones. In addition to the deep red spinel, there is also a raspberry-colored variety that is mined in Tanzania.

Ruby and rubellite. Rubellite is another red stone, which can have an intense hue similar to that of certain rubies. However, it is a variety of tourmaline, a less rare gem than rubies. Rubellite was already known in ancient Roman times and the gem was often confused with garnets and spinels. The great diffusion in the West took place at the beginning of the seventeenth century after the Dutch importation of the rubellite from Sri Lanka. In 1998 a large tourmaline mine was discovered in Nigeria and rubellite invaded jewelers.

Anello con rubino birmano da 8,80 carati e diamanti

Spinel and taaffeite. Between these two stones it is taaffeite that is rarer and more expensive. Taaffeite is named after its discoverer, the Irish Richard Taaffe, who in 1945 identified it as confused with spinel. Sent to London for analysis, it was identified as a new precious stone, unfortunately very difficult to find. Unlike spinel, taaffeite exhibits the property of double refraction which allows the distinction between these two minerals. It can have different colors, including red, violet and red, which make it very similar to certain varieties of spinel.

Diamonds and zircons. Attention, let’s not talk about cubic zirconia, which are artificial stones with a very low price and used for pendants and bijoux that cost a few tens of euros or dollars. Real zircons are natural stones. They can have different colors, often found in the blue hue, but there are also colorless zircons like diamonds. Furthermore, zircon has a very high refractive index, lower only than that of diamond, and for this reason it has often been mistaken for the gem it resembles. From a chemical point of view, however, diamonds and zircons are different: the former are made of pure carbon, the latter are nesosilicates.

Emerald and demantoid garnet. They are both green stones. The demantoid garnet, just like the emerald, takes on the green hue due to the percentage of chromium and iron, which lead to bright green shades or more tending to green-yellow, even green tending to blue. Another variety of garnet, tsavorite, also has a green hue that can be mistaken for emerald. In fact, many jewelers combine the two stones on the same piece of jewelry to lower the cost.

Orecchini con granato demantoide, diamanti by Tenzo

Bracciale caratterizzato da un magnifico smeraldo cabochon ottagonale dello Zambia da 71,88 carati e da 41,06 carati di diamanti rotondi incolori taglio brillante incastonati in platino

Bracciale Serpente in titanio, tsavorite, onice, lacca

Topaz, quartz, aquamarine. Sometimes white topaz or topaz with faint yellow hues is mistaken for smoky or citrine quartz. Obviously a simple quartz costs less than topaz. In the blue hue, on the other hand, a pale-colored topaz can be mistaken for an aquamarine. The value of the two stones, however, is different.

Pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri — Vanessa Martinelli, pezzo unico. Anello con citrino lemon e zaffiri

Collezione Petra, collana in bronzo con topazio giallo by Gaia Caramazza

Anello in oro bianco con grande acquamarina

The new garlands by Pasquale Bruni

Published on September 29, 2021

alta gioielleria/Showroom

In India, flower garlands play an important role in every holiday: Hindu deities are always decorated with fragrant wreaths and leaves. In Italy, however, garlands are often found in the collections of Pasquale Bruni. The new precious garlands of the Maison of Valenza find their place in the Goddess Garden collection, presented last year and now renewed with new pieces of high jewelery. In short, women as goddesses to be adorned: which female person doesn’t like this idea? Of course, wearing one of the proposed necklaces is like getting on a pedestal and attracting everyone’s attention.

The flower of the genus Plumeria is used in Pasquale Bruni’s wreaths, which includes plants such as frangipani found in hot countries (such as in India), with fragrant flowers used to compose garlands. In the case of the Goddess Garden collection, however, the petals are made in and with a pavé of diamonds and precious stones, such as rubies, emeralds, blue and pink sapphires. And, in the case of the necklace, a cushion-cut rubellite of 47.24 carats is added.

The necklace also has another peculiarity: it is heart-shaped, perhaps to emphasize the link between love and jewelry. The necklace is available both with a garland made up exclusively of precious petals of precious stones, and in a version that uses a red velvet ribbon for the back of the jewel. Additionally, Goddess Garden features earrings and a bracelet.

Collier con Goddess Garden con nastro di vdlluto

Vania Leles, the African soul of gems

Published on October 14, 2020

Showroom/Rings

Girocollo in oro giallo e diamanti della collezione Sahara

Rubies, emeralds, diamonds: these are the colors of Africa for Vania Leles, which uses gems of origin that are responsible for high-class jewelery signed VanLeles ♦

Africa for Vania Leles, born in Guinea-Bissau, means two things: pride and precious stones, with which she also realizes collections of fine jewelry. Also for this reason, for example, a couple of years ago, she created a collection of six high-jewelery pieces with emeralds and diamonds from Zambia from the Gemfields mines, which boasts a process of ethical acquisition of stones. The collection pays tribute to Dido Elizabeth Belle, who was born in slavery in the West Indies in 1761, but was liberated and raised in London, and for Sarah Forbes Bonetta, who was presented as a “gift” to Queen Victoria in 1850 and later grown up as the queen’s goddaughter. In short, stories of slavery of other times. But that Vania, of dark skin, wanted to remember. The latest collection, instead, is called Sahara: dedicated to the desert, it is made of gold and diamonds.

Fortunately, the designer had a different story: she was a model for Saint Laurent. But then she decided that jewels were more interesting than life on the catwalk and she studied at the Gemological Institute of America and then worked for Graff and De Beers. How to say that it started from above. Having learned her trade, she opened an atelier in New Bond Street, London. Her jewels are top top top, as you can see from the images on this page. Lavinia Andorno

Orecchini della collezione Sahara in oro giallo e diamanti

Pasquale Bruni in Milan at Monte Napoleone street

Published on October 26, 2019

news/alta gioielleria

Pasquale Bruni renews the collections and opens a store in Via Monte Napoleone, in Milan ♦ ︎

Pasquale Bruni doubles in Milan and opens a store in the most prestigious luxury shopping street, via Monte Napoleone. The opening of the store, located at number 5, ie near Piazza San Babila, is scheduled for December. The Maison di Valenza will also keep showrooms and offices in the nearby Via Manzoni. It’s not a little commitment for the company, given that in the most famous Milanese street the cost per square meter is estimated at just under 40,000 euros, while for rentals it reaches 10,000 euros, still per square meter.

Lavori in corso per l'apertura dello store di Pasquale Bruni in via Monte Napoleone a Milano — Lavori in corso per l’apertura dello store di Pasquale Bruni in via Monte Napoleone a Milano

Pasquale Bruni has also recently renewed its collections, among which Atelier Vento stands out: unique, high-impact pieces made with diamonds that support rubellite, tanzanite and morganite. Among the jewels, the great necklace stands out, alternating diamonds and rubellite set in pavé on three rows of precious leaves, in the style of the collection presented at Baselworld a couple of years ago.

Orecchini della collezione Atelier Vento

Orecchini con grandi rubelliti della collezione Atelier Vento

Sicis flowers

Published on September 14, 2019

Rings/Orecchini/alta gioielleria/Showroom

Anello Art Déco in oro bianco, micro mosaico, diamanti, rubellite. La parte superiore è mobile

The Sicis micro mosaic between flowers and Art Deco, here are the new jewels ♦ ︎

Micro mosaic, great result. Sicis, a Ravenna-based company specialized in mosaic activity, which also brings its expertise in fine jewelry, presented the latest creations at VicenzaOro September. The micro mosaic technique, this time, is used for jewels that have a floral subject.

Sicis fine jewelery, however, is not only micro mosaic, but also gold and precious stones, such as the bright marquise-cut rubellites used for rings and earrings, or amethysts or pavé diamonds. But the micro mosaic should not be underestimated: the shades of colors on the surfaces of the jewel are made with thousands of tiny fragments of glass created ad hoc: a job that can take hundreds of hours and an indefinite number of tests to find the right nuance.

Anello in oro bianco, micro mosaico, perla

Only Sicis Jewels, as far as we know, is able to use this technique, which is declined in jewels that are inspired by art deco, or give space to the creativity of the company’s designer. Which, in addition to colors, also focuses on the originality of the form factor: for example, some elements of jewels are mobile.

Orecchini con micr mosaico e pavé di diamanti — Orecchini con micro mosaico e pavé di diamanti

Orecchini Art Déco in oro bianco, micro mosaico, diamanti, rubellite. La parte superiore è mobile

Everything about tourmaline

Published on March 6, 2019

Tormalina watermelon. Copyright: gioiellis.com

All you want to know about the most fashionable stone: the tourmaline. Green, blue or red, is the gem of the moment. Here is a quick tour guide ♦

Often confused with other stones, tourmaline is characterized by a wide range of hues and shades. No coincidence that the name comes from a Sinhalese word turmali, used to indicate carnelian and stones of different colors from Sri Lanka. The main varieties of tourmaline used in jewelry is one that defines the classification of the mineral as Elbaite, which is also a synonym for green tourmalines. Much used Rubellite also, which color are from red to pink, and the rare Indicolite, from a deep blue and exceptional luster.

Pomellato, anello Pom Pom con tormaline verde foresta, verde menta e diamanti

Features Tourmaline is a dichroic stone: each crystal, usually very long, has two colors (one dark and one light), that change as intensity depending on the angle of observation. Do you know where the tourmaline name comes from? It comes from the Sinhalese word thoramalli or tōra-molli. It is a word that is applied to a group of stones found in Sri Lanka. In fact this stone arrived in Europe with the ships of the Dutch East India Company to satisfy the demand for colored gems.

Chopard, anello Red Carpet 2013 con tormalina turchese Paraiba — Chopard, anello Red Carpet 2013 con tormalina Paraiba

Color There are many and with different shades. The most sought stones are the Paraiba tourmalines, homonymous field in Brazil, although the name is used for gems from different backgrounds such as Mozambique and Nigeria, when they have this range of shades: Caribbean blue, peacock blue, neon blue, copper green, neon aquamarine, azure, turquoise generated by the traces of chromium. A trace element, chromium, which gives its name to a deep green stones that are found in Tanzania, although the color in this case is given by the presence of vanadium. A great blue saturation, brightness and purity is the rare tourmaline Indicolite. There are, then, the Rubellite with its shades ranging from pink to vivid red, tourmaline Watermelon or watermelon, true wonder of nature, because two-tone: the center is red, surrounded by an outer layer of green, or vice versa.

Harry Winston, anello pezzo unico con tormalina Paraiba taglio cabochon e diamanti

How to clean the tourmaline. The tourmaline is a fairly hard stone: it is between 7 and 7.5 degrees on the Mohs scale (the diamond is at 10). It is a hardness considered right for use in jewelry. But be careful not to leave the tourmaline too close to a source of heat for a long time: it could alter it and even break. But the stone can be safely cleaned with hot water and a drop of soap, while there are disagreements on the use of ultrasound and steam cleaners.

Tormalina Elbaite proveniente dalla miniera Cruziero di Santa Maria do Suaçuí, nella regione Minas Gerais in Brasile

Source The most important deposits are in Afghanistan, Pakistan, Russia, Burma, Sri Lanka, and United States (California and Maine). Many African countries have recently become major producers of tourmaline, particularly Madagascar, Namibia, Mozambique, Tanzania, Nigeria and Malawi.

Evaluation is not a simple thing due the amount of varieties and colors. The first thing to do is to examine the stone in sunlight: a green gem under an incandescent bulb may appear almost black, while a pink or red appears gray or brown. If, even under artificial light, keeps its natural tones, is likely to be a stone with a fine color. But beware, the primary color should be predominant for 70-75%. The rest of percentage is obviously a hue, ie a secondary color which, however, may change depending on the illumination, natural or artificial. Moreover, there is no general rule on dimensions and prices: some tourmalines are found only in small sizes and are used as beads in a very low cost, while others are more available in 10 or more carats. The evaluation also takes account of its clarity, which has three degrees defined by the Gia (Gemological Institute of America, the most famous center of research and teaching mineralogy of the United States): if the green tourmaline is usually classified type I, that means, has a slight inclusion visible to the naked eye, blue, orange, yellow, multi-color (except watermelon varieties) and some pink specimens stones have minor inclusions and are grade II, while the red ones , pink and watermelon belong to the third category III where noticeable inclusions are expect ed as it appears from the photos below. Tourmaline is normally not subjected to heat treatment and if this happens does not affect its value.

Anello con tormalina cabochon su oro bianco, pavé di tormaline e diamanti — Martin Katz, anello con tormalina cabochon su oro bianco, pavé di tormaline e diamanti

Anello con tormalina e oro 18 carati — Irene Neuwirthm, anello con tormalina e oro 18 carati

Anello con tormalina menta e tanzanite su oro bianco — Paolo Costagli, anello con tormalina menta e tanzanite su oro bianco

Anello in oro giallo, diamanti e tormalina cabochon — Elke Berr, anello in oro giallo, diamanti e tormalina verde cabochon

Pasquale Bruni, gone with the wind atelier

Published on April 8, 2018

Rings/alta gioielleria

Unique pieces of extraordinary value: Atelier Vento by Pasquale Bruni ♦ ︎
The unique pieces of fine jewelry have a special charm. Like the great paintings, unique works, irreplaceable, unrepeatable, so the pieces of one-of-a-kind jewelry, linked to large stones or sometimes to great intuitions of the designer, are also valued for their individual existence. Those who buy them know that they get something they will never see worn by another woman, not even by chance.
The Maison Pasquale Bruni, standard-bearer of the high-end quality of Italian jewelery, does not escape the charm of the unique pieces. Eugenia Bruni, the designer of the Valenza brand, presents unique pieces, defined as the Atelier Vento line. They are shaped by a gust, or a rush of air, who knows: but the large rings and earrings, despite the imposing size, are worn lightly, as if pushed by a breath, even if they have a presence on the hand that you cant forget. Rubellites, tanzanites and morganites are the great stones of the great rings. Alongside, wings with pavé diamonds or rubies support the stones and the dream of owning one. Giulia Netrese

Anelli con Morganite della collezione Atelier Vento

Orecchini con Morganite della collezione Atelier Vento

Anelli, composizione. Morganite e pavé di diamanti

Collezione Atelier Vento, anelli con rubellite

Vento Rubellite 15888B — Collezione Atelier Vento, orecchini con rubellite

Boucheron at the Tsar’s Court

Published on January 17, 2018

Showroom

Composizione grafica con diversi pezzi di alta gioielleria Boucheron della collezione Hiver Impérial. Il grande flocon Impérial ha al suo interno orecchini con perle (gli occhi), un orecchino con zaffiro (il naso), due orecchini Baikal (la bocca)

Boucheron celebrates imperial Russia with a collection of jewels that would have loved by the Tsars ♦︎
Between France and Russia, before and after the October Revolution, there has always been a very close link. Escapeed aristocrats or revolutionaries in exile have found shelter in the tolerant Transalpine state, along with musicians and painters. In Russia the official language of the nobility was French, idiom used in the Tsar’s court and in the good society. The jewelery industry has also maintained a privileged channel between Paris and Moscow. Boucheron remembers it, with the Hunt Impérial jewelry collection. The luxury here walks on the soft, silent snowy surface that covers the big country, bridge between the West and the East, when the winter starts.
Boucheron, more, was the first French jeweler to open a venue in Moscow in 1897 when the tsars still reigned. Boucheron has revisited three of its main themes: Nature (the Lumiere de Nuit line describes the aesthetics of the Nordic landscape), Couture (Femmes Boréales idealizes the beauty of women’s of North), and Architecture (The Anneau d’Or is inspired by the imperial cities of Russia, Moscow and Saint-Petersburg). The pieces are extraordinary, starting with Baïkal, a necklace-corset with an oval aquamarine of 78.33 carats, woolen stones and cultured pearls, diamond paved, white gold. Other jewels, however, remind the snow crystals, or the onion domes of the Kremlin. Margherita Andorno

Anello Boule de Neige, oro bianco, diamanti, cristallo di rocca

BaÏkal, orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina taglio a pera

Banquise, anello in oro bianco con diamante ovale e perle

Collier BaÏkal, in oro bianco, acquamarine, perle

Collier Lumière de Nuit in oro bianco, diamanti, cristallo di rocca

Collier L'Anneau d'Or in oro bianco e diamanti — Collier L’Anneau d’Or in oro bianco e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco con smeraldo dello Zambia, diamanti — Anello in oro bianco con smeraldo dello Zambia taglio cuscino, diamanti

Nevesta, collier in oro bianco e diamanti

Van Cleef & Arpels reveals its Secret

Published on December 19, 2017

Showroom/alta gioielleria

Spilla Cupido, con uno zaffiro arancione a forma di pera di 2,74 carati dello Sri Lanka, abbinato a uno zaffiro viola a forma di pera da 1,36 carati, una rubellite a forma di cuore di 12,04 carati, con diamanti e zaffiri

The secret of Van Cleef & Arpels in the Le Scret collection is a very high quality jewelery. And full of surprises ♦ ︎

The secret of Van Cleef et Arpels was well guarded: a collection of high jewelery, masterpieces which required until 275 days for a necklace. In all, the Le Secret collection has a hundred pieces, some of which conceal a secret in the secret. For example, a bird with colored feathers can open one of the two wings to unveil a small newborn. The top of a ring can be rotated to show a gold engraved band or hide other rings. A bracelet with butterflies can blink the wings to display the hands of a tiny watch. Secrets kept and unveiled, and so, concealed just to be shown with greater pleasure: surprise is not just in the overwhelming technique of the French Maison craftsmen, who have hidden phrases, quotations and dedications in the most striking spaces of jewels, but also in exuberant forms that have the jewels. In addition to the rich necklaces, composite rings, exuberant earrings, there are brooches that fall into that kind of chameleon jewelry, that is, that it takes shapes and colors of objects, plants or animals.
On the other hand, Van Cleef & Arpels’s has just invented the secret in jewelery, as in the case of the secret setting, a patented system that allows the stones to be stacked without any visible metal grippers.

Anello Labyrinthe, con un diamante giallo a taglio cuscino da 13 carati, onice, oro bianco e giallo, diamanti

Van Cleef & Arpels, orologio Papillon, con-movimento meccanico a carica manuale. Uno smeraldo colombiano di 14,57 carati, oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi, spinelli neri, onice e madreperla

Colombe Mystérieuse. Spilla con rubini mystery setting, diamanti e smeraldi (gli occhi)

Anello Fleur Bleu, in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi, zaffiro

Bracciale Dentelle, con diamanti e rubini, può avere l'opalescenza della madreperla o il nero dell'onice — Bracciale Dentelle, con diamanti e rubini, può avere l’opalescenza della madreperla o il nero dell’onice

Oiseau sur la branche, collana trasformabile con perle di rubini birmani

Sous Son Aile, clip con rubini, diamanti e zaffiri: l'ala dell'uccello si muove e svela un altro piccolo uccellino — Sous Son Aile, clip con rubini, diamanti e zaffiri: l’ala dell’uccello si muove e svela un altro piccolo uccellino

The Séraphîta: un anello con zaffiro e diamanti che nasconde ben quattro segreti

Tenzo, the precious soul of Russia

Published on November 29, 2017

Showroom

Anello con smeraldo intagliato e diamanti

The extraordinary, and rare, jewels by the Russian Maison Tenzo ♦ ︎
Alexander Tenzo is anusual figure in the world of jewelery. He is Russian, he opened his Maison in St. Petersburg in 1996 when he was not yet 30 years old, and specialized in the trading of precious stones and gems: a passion that was born during the visit of ruby mines in Sri Lanka. He loves very much the colors of stones like spinelli, crisoberillo, green garnets, rubellite, alexandrite. His Russian soul leads him to create theatrical jewelery, with strong contrasts, sculptors. Like other great jewelers, Tenzo makes a few pieces and conceives them from the quality and, above all, the character of the stones. This adds fantasy to the design of form, tradition, passion, craft skill that encompasses the very popular enamel technique in Russia, or micro pavé. One of his points of reference is the Russian jeweler, Carl Fabergé. Gold is often twisted, embroidered, sometimes transformed with unparalleled nuances, often to infuse vintage air. In addition to boutique in 7 Rentgena Street in St. Petersburg, his jewels can be found (with some luck) in Switzerland, Heimperg, New York and London. Alessia Mongrando

Anello con rubellite di 12 carati della Nigeria

Particolare di una spilla con pietra luna intagliata

Anello con occhi di gatto e alessandrite

Anello con diamante rosa e diamanti bianchi, oro ossidato per donare un aspetto vintage

Sutra in red and pink

Published on November 13, 2017

alta gioielleria/Showroom

Sutra, anello con spinelli rosa e diamanti. Prezzo: 85.000 dollari

The Sutra jewels in the shades from pink to red. Different colors, different prices ♦ ︎
What would be the jewelery without fantasy? A simple gold band, always equal, perhaps with a diamond embedded on the edge. Not that a diamond ring is despicable, of course, but jewelery is also something else. It’s extravagance, invention and, last but not least, cheerfulness to wear. If, then, fantasy is married to luxury, the couple can only introduce children as the ones that grow together with the Sutra brand (see also: On the Sutra wings) in the mind of Indian designer Arpita Navlakha. The brand, which has carried the experience and tradition of colored stones in the US, every year shows some interesting pieces and, above all, manages to offer a range ranging from the high jewelery to luxury collections wirh less unreachable by a price point. An example of the two categories are, for example, The Angel Skin and the Pink Spinel Collection, where colors from red to pink prevail (price: from $ 8,000 to $ 30,000). On the same colors, however, the earrings of the high jewelery collection with rubellite and spinello rise at a price of 65.ooo euro. To you the choice. Giulia Netrese

The Angel Skin and Pink Spinel Collection, anello con spinello, diamanti, opale rosa. Prezzo: 8.000 dollari

The Angel Skin and Pink Spinel Collection: diamanti, opale rosa. Prezzo: 30.000 dollari

The Angel Skin and Pink Spinel Collection. Orecchini con spinello, diamanti, opale rosa. Prezzo: 15.000 dollari

Sutra orecchini rubellite e spinello — Orecchini con rubellite, spinelli e diamanti. Prezzo: 65.000 dollari

Chaumet, here it’s the party

Published on July 7, 2017

Showroom

Anello Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, smeraldo a cuscino verde brillante di 11.74 carati, smeraldi e rubini, zaffiri e diamanti

Chaumet in a festival music: four magnificent high jewelery lines ♦ ︎
High jewelery is a feast for the eyes, though not for the wallet. So there is one of the historic Place Vendôme Maison (born in 1780) celebrating the double. It is called Chaumet est une fête its new collection of high jewelery. But it is a four-time party, how many are the ones in which the collection is subdivided. Since it is alluded to a great social evening, the times are those used by great music. Dance music with the Valses d’Hiver or syncopated with Rhapsodie Transantlantique as the Rhapsody in Blue by Gershwin, respectful of the classic tradition with the Pastorale Anglaise (dedicated to the Glyndebourne Festival) or the world of the opera with Aria Passionata (inspired by La Scala Theater Milan).
The Pastorale, for example, explores reasons through the use of green color: obviously these are valuable emeralds of the Muzo, Colombia mines.

Complex jewelery masterpieces, delicate goldsmiths work and magnificent stones: it is enough to say that the Necklace of the Pastoral line costs about 2 million, while the average jewelry price is about 400,000 euros. Aria Passionata is, however, consistent with its name, a red suite of rubies, garnets, associated with pink gold and diamonds. The tenor and soprano tunes engaged in melodrama classics turn into bouquet-shaped pins (but not to be cast on stage as a performance tribute). Rhapsody in Blue uses white gold, diamonds, tanzanite, tourmaline, chrysoberyl: many different shades as you expect when listening to a music rhapsody. Finally, Valses d’Hiver is a dance around soft, refined, white gold, diamonds and pearls – light and turbulent as a step between stuccoes and the vaults of a frescoed salon. Giulia Netrese

Collier Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, grande smeraldo Muzo, rubini, zaffiri e diamanti

Orecchini Pastorale Anglaise, oro bianco, lacca giallo e oro, smeraldi, rubini, zaffiri e diamanti

Spilla Aria Passionata, oro e lacca rosa, insieme con un rhodolite ovale di 22.51 carati, 2 rubini cabochon di 5,55 carati, un granato ovale, baguette e rotondo, rubino baguette e diamanti taglio brillante

Orecchini Aria Passionata, oro e lacca rosa, rhodolite, rubini cabochon, granato, diamanti

Collier trasformabile Aria Passionata, lacca rosa e oro, 3 granati Rhodolite ovali di 16.28 carati, 14,25 carati e 10.96 carati, 3 rubini cabochon 6,25 carati, 4,89 carati e 3 15 carati, granato baguette rodolite, ovale e rotonda, rubini baguette, sfere di rubino, onice e diamanti

Collana Rhapsodie Transatlantique, in oro bianco e giallo, morganite cuscino, crisoberillo ovale, topazio imperiale, tormalina rosa, diamanti di diverso taglio, granati Umba

Anello Rhapsodye Atlantique, in oro bianco e giallo, impostato con uno zaffiro Padparadscha ovale da 10.11 carati di Ceylon, uno zaffiro viola ovale taglio di 7,37 carati, granati Umba e diamanti — Anello Rhapsodie Transatlantique, in oro bianco e giallo, impostato con uno zaffiro Padparadscha ovale da 10.11 carati di Ceylon, uno zaffiro viola ovale taglio di 7,37 carati, granati Umba e diamanti

La collezione Rhapsodie Transantlantique

Diadema Valses d'Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle — Diadema Valses d’Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle

Chaumet, spilla Valses d'Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle — Chaumet, spilla Valses d’Hiver, in oro bianco, diamanti e perle

Chaumet, colelzione Valses d'Hiver — Chaumet, colelzione Valses d’Hiver

Bulgari Vipers

Published on July 4, 2017

Showroom

Bulgari, anelli Viper, oro rosa e diamanti

Bulgari Serpenti with new gorgeous Vipers ♦ ︎
The Bulgari’s Serpenti collection does not need any presentations: it is one of the most famous jewelery lines in the world. Constantly the Roman Maison passed under the insignia of the Lvmh Group renews its Snakes by introducing new variants (see also: New Serpents for Bulgari). Now, starting with the Asian markets, Maison has introduced new pieces of Serpenti collection inspired by the designs of the Seventies: some jewels, such as rings, also refer to a well-defined snake, viper and have a aggressive design. Necklace, earrings and bracelet are composed by a modular element.
Snake scales are as always in gold, white or pink, with diamonds and diamonds. At the center of each of these snakes there are colored stones, such as rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite and aquamarine. The amethyst, for example, has been cut into a geometry that enhances the facet, transparency and color intensity. Rubellite, tanzanite and aquamarine are cut in pear shape, similar to a drop of water. Lavinia Andorno

Collana Serpenti in oro bianco e rubellite

Collana Serpenti in oro rosa, 13 tormaline rosa, diamanti per 7,96 carati

Bulgari, anelli Viper, oro bianco e diamanti

Dior between Granville flowers

Published on February 6, 2016

Showroom

Dior Granville is inspired by flowers and colors of a Normandy villa’s garden where Christian Dior spent his childhood. The house of Granville, now a museum, is the place chosen by the artistic director Victoire de Castellane to tell the 12 jewels unveiled during Paris couture week. Beryl, peridot, aquamarine, tanzanite, chrysoberyl, pink tourmaline, rubellite: in all pieces, all perfectly asymmetrical, there are the designer’s favourite stones, assembled in a way in which each every reflection and shade are clearly visible. Thus, the vivid hues are aligned to the most watery shades, in different cuts and setting styles. Te outcome? No one color dominates another in rare equilibrium in which all stand out. Not so easy to create such a rhythm with stones that seat beside to one another, and the marquise or princess cuts are next to pear-shaped, oval or round gems. Furthemore, the pairs of earrings that appear similar, to look carefully show details, although minimal, but different. In fact, if stone’s figure and size are equal the varieties change. For instance, on the right there is a tanzanite, while on the left a rubellite, or if there two same stones in one half is larger and in the other is stretched. In a single jewel you can have two different setting styles: a rub over and claw. Yet, in this anarchy of shapes and colors, each element has the same chance to shine. A very democratic idea, even if the price of fine jewelry, like its rainbow tones, is pleasantly jarring. M.B.

Granville, bracciale in oro rosa con tormalina rosa centrale e diamanti, peridoti, spinelli viola, granati spessartina, berilli gialli, zaffiri, spinelli rosa, tormaline verdi e acquamarine

Granville, anello in oro giallo con due crisoberilli centrali, berilli gialli, tormaline rosa e acquamarine

Granville, orecchini in oro giallo con diamanti, due tanzaniti grandi, zaffiri viola, spinelli rosa, granati e smeraldi

Granville, anello in oro giallo con tormalina verde centrale, berilli gialli, ioliti, granato spessartina (color arancio), rubellite, tormaline Paraiba e spinelli rossi

Granville, anello in oro giallo con rubellite centrale, granati spessartina, tanzaniti, tormaline e berilli gialli

Granville, orecchini in oro rosa con due acquamarina a forma di pera, diamanti, spinelli rosa, tormaline tipo Paraiba, crisoberilli, spinelli rossi e tormaline verdi

Granville, anello in oro giallo con tanzanite centrale, diamanti, smeraldi e granati spessartina

Granville, anello in oro rosa con tormalina verde centrale, acquamarine, tormaline rosa, granati spessartina e berilli verdi

Granville, orecchini in oro giallo con due grandi tormaline rosa, file di rubelliti, tanzaniti, acquamarine e granati spessatina e in cima smeraldi, diamanti e tsavoriti

Granville, anello in oro rosa con morganite centrale a goccia e crisoberilli, rubelliti, tormaline giallo-verde, granati spessartina e opali di fuoco

Granville, orecchini in oro rosa con due grandi tormaline tipo Paraiba di taglio diverso, tormaline rosa, zaffiri viola, berilli e tsavoriti