rose-cut

What are rose cut diamonds?

The rose cut diamonds is back in fashion. But this type of cutting of the most famous stone in the world has pros and cons. Here is what you need to know before buying a jewel with a rose cut diamond. And, above all, learn about this ancient cut of the most precious and beloved stone. The first question is: what are rose-cut diamonds? If you have any doubts, know that this shape does not actually imitate the appearance of the flower.

Anello con cluster di diamanti rose-cut
Ring with rose-cut diamond cluster

How to recognize the rose cut. The rose cut is a type of diamond processing that was used in the past, in particular in the Georgian era, that is the period of the history of England that goes from the reign of George I to that of George IV, between 1714 and 1830 Rose cut diamonds are often confused with round or round cut diamonds, but the difference is notable. Rose-cut diamonds have a rounded top, but a flat base. The top of the stone features different triangular facets than brilliant cut diamonds. Brilliant cut diamonds have become popular since the late 1800s and manage to make the diamond appear much more sparkling thanks to 57-58 facets. Rose-cut diamonds, on the other hand, have a maximum of 24 facets. Brilliant cut diamonds have a pointed bottom that reflects more light. Rose-cut diamonds, on the other hand, can be brighter, albeit less sparkling.

Anello con diamanti per 15 carati
Sutra Jewels, 15 carat diamond ring, rose cut

The advantage. Rose-cut diamonds weigh less than brilliant-cut ones, as they are less thick (they don’t have a pointed underside). For this reason, for the same carats (i.e. the weight of a stone) they will have a larger surface. In short, they are larger for the same weight. A 1-carat brilliant-cut diamond measures 6.5 millimeters when viewed from above, while a rose-cut diamond of the same weight measures approximately 7.5 millimeters. Not only that: rose cut diamonds can have many different shapes: round, oval, pear, kite, hexagon, square, or they can also be cut into random and irregular shapes. In fact, we must not confuse the cut with the shape of the diamond, which refers to the outline of the stone (rectangular, round, pear-shaped). The cut, on the other hand, refers to aspects such as proportion, facets and polishing.

Anello di alta gioielleria con smeraldi per 6 carati, e diamante rose-cut al centro
High jewelry ring with 6 carats of emeralds and a rose-cut diamond in the center

The classification. Rose-cut diamonds follow the usual classification of other diamonds: the color ranges from D (completely colorless) to Z (brown or yellow shade). Since they sparkle less, rose-cut diamonds are also often used in more accentuated colors such as gray, champagne, dull white, black and yellow. Clarity is also classified as for other diamonds.

La differenza tra un taglio rosa e un taglio brillante
The difference between a pink cut and a brilliant cut

Is it worth buying a rose-cut diamond? Often rose-cut diamonds are offered as a rarity, or as a stylistic choice of the jeweler. It is undoubtedly an easier cut to make and, therefore, faster and less expensive. In India, the rose cut is part of tradition and is still widely used. There are other brands, such as 64Facets of New York that mainly use rose-cut diamonds. Before buying a jewel with rose cut diamonds, however, it is good to evaluate the aesthetic result. The best thing is to compare a jewel with rose cut diamonds to one with more modern cut stones, to see the difference with your own eyes.

Anello con diamante taglio brillante al centro e taglio rosa ai lati by 64Facets
Ring with brilliant cut diamond in the center and rose cut on the sides by 64Facets

John Apel’s American Dream

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Before judging John Apel jewels, you need to know the true passions of the founder of the American brand, John Apelian: oil painting and gardening. It is not a very common aspect among jewelry designers. But John Apelian has a different story from the others: he was born in Istanbul, Turkey, learning the family business: leather tanning. And his unique combination of chemical expertise and innate creative talent allowed him to introduce new colors into the leather tanning process. Then, he taught in a technical school, but he also worked with a small jewelry company. There, the spark for jewelry struck.

Bracciale Hope in oro rosa 18 carati, tra i finalisti ai Couture Awards 2021
Bracciale Hope in oro rosa 18 carati, tra i finalisti ai Couture Awards 2021

In 1976, John and his wife Hilda emigrated to the United States, where the designer opened a small jewelry repair shop and, in 1991, founded his own manufacturing and design company under the Italian name DiLaro. Fortunately, in 2006, Apelian chose to change the name of the brand with one closer to him. For his jewels he uses platinum or 18 karat gold, together with gems, while for his creations he is inspired by nature. Among the features there is also a line with rose-cut diamonds, a traditional shape widely used in the East, because the origins, after all, are never forgotten.

Collana in oro 18 carati, turchesi e diamanti
Collana in oro 18 carati, turchesi e diamanti
Orecchini in oro rosa 18 carati e diamanti
Orecchini in oro rosa 18 carati e diamanti
Anello Fleurette in oro rosa 18 carati e diamanti taglio rosa
Anello Fleurette in oro rosa 18 carati e diamanti taglio rosa
Orecchini della Reina collection in oro e pietra luna
Orecchini della Reina collection in oro e pietra luna

Collana Dragonfly in oro rosa 18 carati e diamanti taglio rosa
Collana Dragonfly in oro rosa 18 carati e diamanti taglio rosa







Vak’s amazing jewels

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The new jewels by Vak, the Indian Maison specializing in surprising high jewelery

Vak is the fruit of a family inheritance. Yet, even if it is inspired by the ancient, the tradition, the Maison of Mumbai founded by Vishal Kothari, focuses everything on innovation. A graduate of the Gia in New York, the Indian designer does not limit himself to designing fine jewelry, but emphasizes creativity guided by a technique that is often surprising. Also because he also dreamed of being a fashion designer, or a musician. Instead he has become a great jewelry signature. The diamonds that make up the petals are cut and mounted so that they are flexible, but at the same time firmly on a ring or a pair of earrings. Vak’s jewels are patiently awaited by a host of fans, who contain jewels produced with the dropper. Also because the Maison only creates around 120 unique pieces a year for its high jewelery collection.

Anello The Portrait, è incastonato con una straordinaria serie di diamanti bianchi, taglio rosa e verticale lungo la corona e la fascia
Anello The Portrait, è incastonato con una straordinaria serie di diamanti bianchi, taglio rosa e verticale lungo la corona e la fascia

On the other hand, it is not easy to make jewelry like the Desert Rain Ring: a cloud of rose-cut diamonds that seems to fall on a brushed gold surface, like rain on sand. It is a shock cocktail ring but, they explain to Vak, it is in fact a desired promise, like rain in the desert. But, alongside pieces sold to collectors, Vak now also offers high-end jewelry, but sold through online platforms such as Moda Operandi. They are always jewels that cost several thousand dollars or euros, but are closer to the general public.
Desert Rain Ring, rose cut diamonds, su oro rosa spazzolato
Desert Rain Ring, rose cut diamonds, su oro rosa spazzolato

Anello Arch of Heaven con diamanti e uno zaffiro burmese non scaldato
Anello Arch of Heaven con diamanti e uno zaffiro burmese non scaldato

Orecchini Architectural Splendor, con diamanti, spinelli e rubini birmani
Orecchini Architectural Splendor, con diamanti, spinelli e rubini birmani
Bracciale in oro rodiato nero, diamanti e smeraldo di 5,36 carati
Bracciale in oro rodiato nero, diamanti e smeraldo di 5,36 carati
Anello Elephant Pop con diamanti e rubini
Anello Elephant Pop con diamanti e rubini
Orecchini Black Constellation in oro rodiato nero e diamanti
Orecchini Black Constellation in oro rodiato nero e diamanti
Orecchini Green Baroque con diamanti, oro rodiato brown, smeraldi dello Zambia
Orecchini Green Baroque con diamanti, oro rodiato brown, smeraldi dello Zambia
Orecchini Summero Bllom, con smeraldi intagliati e diamanti
Orecchini Summero Bllom, con smeraldi intagliati e diamanti







64Facets vintage diamonds

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Vintage-cut diamonds, which are popular with luxury retailers such as Neiman Marcus, Saks 5th Avenue and Stanley Korshak and worn by celebrities such as Salma Hayek, Claire Danes and Naomi Watts: on the strength of these premises, 64Facets was selected among the finalists at Couture Design Awards in the Best in Diamonds Below $ 20K category.

Orecchini con diamanti rose-cut
Orecchini con diamanti rose-cut

64Facets is a jewelry company founded in 2016, which specializes (also) in jewelry with rose cut and old European cut diamonds. But don’t be surprised by the vintage-style choice of gems. The company, in fact, seems (there is no official news) connected with the Brenninkmeijer galaxy, the name of the German-Dutch family that owns financial companies, is active in the fashion business, has a private equity fund and, according to Wikipedia, employs more than 80 thousand people around the world. The link goes through the Swiss Abreziel Holding, which in turn controls the London-based financial Adbb, which is active in the jewelery business. The latter includes Delphine Brenninkmeijer Braas, who deals with the strategies of 64Facets, founded in New York, but with offices in London, Beverly Hills and Jaipur, where ld style diamonds are cut (rose-cut is a type of cut also used in the Mughal era).

Anello con cluster di diamanti rose-cut
Anello con cluster di diamanti rose-cut

However, the Maison is managed by an Indian, Gourav Soni: a manager who started from distant Kolkata, a city in the Bay of Bengal, and then after his studies in Delhi, with a diploma from the Gia in New York and a master’s in business administration at Columbia University. Gourav Soni is also responsible for sourcing diamonds from Jaipur, India. According to what the manager explained, the creation of the jewels is done internally, so that every aspect of the process can be controlled. The diamonds follow the Kimberly process and are then cut in Jaipur. By the way, the name 64Facets is inspired by Indian mythology, which identifies 64 arts and sciences that humans can master. Furthermore, Hinduism believes that one of the gods, Krishna, mastered all 64 arts and sciences in 64 days.

Orecchini Diamond Crawler
Orecchini Diamond Crawler
Orecchini Sunflower con diamanti taglio rosa e brillante
Orecchini Sunflower con diamanti taglio rosa e brillante
Collana con nappa in diamanti
Collana con nappa in diamanti
Collana con diamanti e smeraldi
Collana con diamanti e smeraldi
Anello Floral con diamanti taglio rosa e brillante
Anello Floral con diamanti taglio rosa e brillante
Orecchini Floral con diamanti taglio rosa e brillante
Orecchini Floral con diamanti taglio rosa e brillante






Amrapali: 3232 diamonds to maharani





Amrapali sells jewelery on e-shopping portals such as Net-à-porter or Neiman Marcus. But among his historical pieces there is also a necklace with 2332 diamonds and emeralds for the modern maharani (maharaja’s wives) ♦

Amrapali is one of the most famous and appreciated Maison of Jaipur, the capital of Indian jewelry in Rajasthan. Even many Bollywood stars wear jewelry of this brand that takes the name of a famous royal courtesan, lived around 500 BC in ancient India. But now, in addition to courtesans, Amrapali pays tribute to the Queen, that is in India, the Maharani, the name by which he is known as the wife of a maharaja. It is called just that, Maharani, a necklace with 3232 diamonds with different cuts. And, in addition, there are emeralds for 365 carats.

Maharani necklace di Amrapali
Maharani necklace di Amrapali

“I wanted to use as many as possible diamonds,” said Tarang Arora, creative director at Amrapali Jewels. The market target, he said, is that of the Arab countries, where it is appreciated such a rich and flashy jewelry (and expensive). The cutting of diamonds used, rose-cut, is achieved with a technique that dates back to 1500. The stone has a flat bottom and a crown-shaped dome which rises to a single vertex from three to 24 facets. Remember, in short, the shape of a rose bud. To set Maharani necklace it took eight months of work, including three remakes to make it perfectly balanced. As well as sumptuous, the necklace also has a historical reference: is inspired by the Mughal style, the Islamic dynasty that ruled much of India for four centuries. But, of course, the series should please the women-maharani of today. Giulia Netrese

Set di collana e orecchini con smeraldi
Set di collana e orecchini con smeraldi
Orecchini in oro rosa con diamanti e rubini
Orecchini in oro rosa con diamanti e rubini
Orecchini con diamanti e perle
Orecchini con diamanti e perle
Collana in oro con diamanti polki
Collana in oro con diamanti polki
Choker con diamanti e rubini
Choker con diamanti e rubini

Orecchini con diamanti
Orecchini con diamanti







With Sutra a modern in ancient way




Sutra’s jewels with rose-cut diamonds: innovation plus tradition ♦

Time runs, but sometimes it is necessary to wrap it and make it run backwards, as if it were a ball of roll to be compacted into a single mass. This also happens when creating something artistic or simply artisanal: we arrive at a point where the urge to find something new ends up discovering what is tradition. And this is all the more true for a brand that is a child of tradition, the Indian one, which has hundreds of years behind jewelery.

bracciale rose cut collection
Bracciale della Rose cut collection

Sutra Jewels, in fact, is a Maison born from the collaboration of husband and wife: Arpita and Divyanshu Navlakha, who founded the brand in 2008. They met while studying at the Gemological Institute of America and both come from families already active in the world of jewelry. In short, a lot of tradition behind it. Their jewels, however, are not tied to the classic Indian style. They are more modern, more western. Many colored stones, a lot of work to tell the jewel through the combination of gems. But sometimes, tradition knocks on the door. This is the case, for example, of the jewels proposed in spring, which use the rose-cut cut for diamonds, just like in ancient jewels. In short, innovation is good, but the roots are deep. Lavinia Andorno




collana rose cut
Collana di diamanti della Rose cut collection
The Butterfly Collection anello
Anello della Butterly collection, con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi
orecchini The Butterfly Collection
Orecchini della Butterfly collection, con diamanti bianchi e neri
orecchini rose cut collection
Orecchini della Rose cut collection, oro nero e diamanti
orecchini agata and diamond collection
Orecchini della Agata and diamond collection