Who said that in the world of jewelry there is no room for invention? Perhaps thanks to technology, if combined with a good dose of creativity. An example of this is Yael Kaduri, a 3D jewelry designer who boasts a very personal path halfway between art and goldsmithing. Although, in truth, her focus is not centered on precious materials, but on the possibilities that 3D printing offers when combined with traditional craftsmanship. Yael also teaches at the Bezalel Academy of Arts & Design in Jerusalem, holds degrees in jewelry and fashion, and teaches as an assistant professor at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. In short, an eclectic creativity, also testified by the passion for the connection between music and visual arts.
Jewels are a world apart. According to the Yael, jewels combine concentration, accuracy, enigmatic essence and delicacy with communication and body awareness. “The main sources of my inspiration are the natural worlds and aesthetic ideals of traditional Japanese craftsmanship,” she adds. Yael Kaduri’s work is focused, according to her description, on product development in an attempt to come up with some new craft skills to design jewelery using 3D printed polymers, combined with cast metal and traditional goldsmithing. A hybrid object, which she calls digital precious. But even more precious are her innovative ideas.
Printing jewels in 3D, obviously with a special device capable of building three-dimensional objects, has been the dream of many designers for some years. This is why some have taken this path, such as Valeria D’Annibale, who has always been fascinated by new technologies, but also by jewelry. The result is called Varily, a brand that offers bijoux made of nylon. A material that is not precious, of course, but which offers creativity as an added value. So much so that the designer chose this material after starting to work silver, enthused by the ductility offered by the resistance and flexibility.
Before launching on the market with her own brand, Valeria D ‘Annibale studied Jewelery and Object Design in Sydney, Australia, where she met and married her husband. Then, the couple moved to Holland where, together with two twins, Varily’s business was also born, in an environment conducive to Nordic minimalist design. And to 3D printing.
Victoire de Castellane has the merit of surprising without limitations to the aesthetics of her high jewelry. As is now tradition, Dior presented its couture collections in Paris with a view of the summer. The high jewelery collection this year is called Print. Like the verb to print in English. The creative director’s idea seems to have been to draw prints on jewels, whatever that means. But, if desired, Print is also an abbreviation of printemps, spring, and such a collection is always a new beginning. In any case, the Print collection includes 137 unique pieces.
Rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings do not disappoint expectations: they are a synthesis of classic icons, such as the diamond bow from which a Paraiba tourmaline hangs. Or gems that make up geometries, rigorous or soft as in the brooch that forms a wave designed by emeralds, diamonds and sapphires. Gems, however, are never used as a symbol of wealth, but fit into the homogeneous style that gives life to the collection. To see and wear, rather than to print.
The Jewels made in 3D by Nuovi Gioielli
Bracelets, rings and necklaces in gold made with a 3D printer: the innovation of Nuovi Gioielli di Vicenza ♦
Continue the tradition by breaking the tradition. It seems impossible, but not to Nuovi Gioielli, a goldsmith company from Vicenza founded in 1985, which has managed to overcome the contradiction. Nuovi Gioielli, in fact, makes rings, bracelets and earrings according to the classic traditional method, but also 3D printed. It is a real innovation, because 3D printing is usually used to obtain wax molds, which are used to obtain the casings used for gold fusion.
Nuovi Gioielli, instead, with the 3D printer manages to directly produce gold jewelry, adding small metal particles. In this way, thanks to special printers built for this purpose, new shapes and designs are obtained, with a special use of volumes. It is a step into the future of jewelry. Alongside this surprising production activity, the Vicenza-based company also produces the classic handmade gold jewelry with the addition of diamonds and colored gems. Alessia Mongrando