platino

Anello con diamanti di Recarlo, collezione Anniversary Love

How to choose an engagement ring? We have asked several people, men and women.

Once upon a time, engagement rings were only made of yellow gold. It is the most traditional gold, the one that signals the value of the metal. Today, however, a yellow gold engagement ring has a slightly vintage feel, even if it always remains a classic. Someone prefers it this way, precisely because of its taste of a jewel from other times, but with a value that will remain intact for the future as well. In this case, however, it is better to choose a simple design, perhaps with a small diamond set.

Yellow gold. Once the engagement rings were made in yellow gold. It is the more traditional gold, which indicates that the value of the metal. Today, however, an engagement ring in yellow gold has a vintage feel. Some people prefer it so, just for its flavor jewel of other times. In this case , however, better to choose a simple design, perhaps with a small diamond.

Anello indossato della collezione Motion — Ring worn from PdPaola’s Motion collection

White gold. Beware: in reality there is the white gold. It is, you know, gold mixed with some metal without color, such as silver, nickel, manganese and/or (more rarely) palladium. Beware, then by those who proposed a ring in “pure white gold”. It is often coated with rhodium to give it a patina whiter and a brilliant finish. This type of ring after a few years it should be dipped again in a solution in order to maintain its white color and luster and replace the rhodium plating, otherwise it will return to the color of its main ingredient: yellow gold. It’s a hassle, but in reality the process is relatively inexpensive, and many jewelers offer this service for free.

Anello con diamante a taglio marquise — White gold ring with marquise cut diamond

Red and rose gold. The red gold is a alloy with copper. It’s not used traditional for engagement rings, less than complicated processes that combine white gold or yellow. An engagement ring in red gold, which is very fashionable for other types of jewelry, it is considered a bit too bling, inelegant. Of course, the design of the ring counts for a lot in the final judgment.

Anello doppio in oro rosa e diamanti indossato — Piaget, double ring in rose gold and diamonds worn

Platinum. This means that it has a natural white color, although slightly greyish. To be sold as a platinum ring should be composed of at least 90-95 per cent with this metal. Over time the color of the platinum does not tend to yellow, as for the white gold. But loses its glossy finish: some like it because that, by contrast, makes the diamond even more sparkling. Platinum, in any case, can be professionally polished to restore its original splendor, a process that is comparable in terms of cost of care for the white gold. In general, the color of white gold and platinum are similar, but not exactly the same thing: try to put a ring type on the same hand and you will see. White gold is more silvery, while platinum is more gray. The white diamonds beautifully complement them both, but beware: if your engagement ring is platinum, do not add a wedding band in white gold. Remain coordinated with the metal selected the first time is a better idea.

Anello in platino, morganite, diamanti — Platinum, morganite, diamond ring by Tomasz Donocik

The price. The biggest advantage of white gold than platinum is definitely the cost. Platinum is more expensive because it is more rare than gold. Every year there are only extracted 160 tons of platinum against 1,500 tons of gold. In addition, platinum is denser than the yellow metal: the same size ring will weigh significantly more platinum than gold (and precious metals are valued by weight). Broadly speaking, a gem in white gold costs about half an equivalent in platinum. So if you like the white and want to save, choose the gold.

Gioielleria Rocca a Bologna, ingresso — Rocca jewelry store in Bologna, entrance

Which gold to choose. Most of the engagement rings in gold are a 14 or 18 carat , usually marked with the initials 14k or 18k . The letter k means carat. The 14k gold is only 58.3 percent pure. The one on the 18k is 75 percent pure. The greater the amount karat, the purer the gold, but it is also less resistant. The gold in its purest form, in fact, is at 24k, but that state is too soft to use for jewelry complex: it deforms. Must be alloyed with other metals in order to harden and become resistant. To reinforce the gold is usually used in alloys nickel, but sometimes causes allergy. Platinum, however, is a strong metal, stronger and heavier than gold. Among other things, the platinum is more pure and is considered hypoallergenic. You can, however, also find white gold without nickel.

Mariah Carey con l'anello di alta gioielleria in oro bianco e diamanti. Photo: Koto Bolofo — Mariah Carey with the high jewelry ring in white gold and diamonds by Chopard. Photo: Koto Bolofo

Symbols. Gold historically indicates wealth, wisdom, and divine power. Remember the golden rules of the Bible? Or, the golden age or the golden years, which signify good times. And the 50th wedding anniversary is said to be one of the golden wedding. Gold is also considered by many as the traditional metal for wedding rings and engagement rings. Since it does not oxidize over time, helps to symbolize the pair of eternal harmony. Yet now it is platinum that seems to be the new symbol of wealth and prestige. Think of the “platinum credit card” which often has better benefits and privileges that the “credit card of gold.” The choice is yours.

Anello con diamante a cuore indossato — Worn heart diamond ring

How narrows or widens a ring

Published on January 27, 2024

You can tighten a ring, or enlarge it: read when and how you can do it ♦

What to do when the favorite ring has become too narrow or too wide? You can ask at the goldsmith to return the gold eliminated in this operation? Because the cost is so different between one ring and another? Here are six questions and six answers.

1 How do you enlarge a ring?

The goldsmith opens the circumference with a saw very thin. Then he picks up (if it has to tighten) or add a piece of metal similar to that of the ring. With pliers, joins the two pieces. At this point welding the ring and then proceeds with different polishing phase with brushes previously immersed in three different abrasive pastes, up to obtain the desired surface.

2 It should be every time added another gold to enlarge a ring?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. If the ring has only need to widen up to less than a quarter of its original size and the metal is often, the jeweler may be able to modify your ring working on a mandrel and using the hammer to jeweler. But it is not likely to occur. Usually the ring is expanded with the addition of a small piece of gold or platinum. The ring is then welded again and polished.

3 How do you resize more little?

To resize a ring, a small section of the circular band is removed. Then the ring is shaped again and then welded. If there are stones on display, they must be tightened again in the griffe. There is a limit: if the stones can not be tightened there is the risk to falling out from the metal support.

Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili — Cazzaniga Nobili goldsmith workshop

4 You may retrieve the gold deleted when you resize a ring?

The amount of gold that is removed in the reduction process is usually so small that it wouldn’t make sense for a refund. Also, sometimes the ring must be polished and the gold is transformed into a fine powder which is sucked. The reduction of a ring requires a lot of skill: the milligrams of gold to the jeweler who remain, are largely discounted by the price of his labor.

Decisamente da stringere — Definitely to tighten

5 Why is it more expensive to widen or tighten some rings than others?

The cost of labor depends very much on the amount of work and by the size of the ring, on the weight and type of metal. To work the platinum is more expensive than gold, because it takes more heat and more attention. It is usually more expensive also work on rings with stones, that need special care. For example, only diamond, sapphire, ruby can withstand the heat of a welding flame. Other gems or should be removed from the ring, or require the use of a laser, because if they are heated, they burn and are hopelessly ruined. The more work and equipment needed for these rings raise the cost of the operation.

Controllate le misure della dita — Check your finger size

6 The size of the finger is different from store to store. Why?

Rings and fingers are measured with spindles. Between one and the other can be a different calibration and, therefore, may be a different measure of the circumference. The variation is usually between 1/4 and 1/2 of the size. In addition, the fingers can also change size depending on weather conditions (shaking with the cold, the heat swell), or due to the condition of health, or weight, and even the time of day.

The jewelry in 10 steps

Published on June 13, 2023

Chrysanthème, esposto anche al Musée des Arts Decoratifs

The 10 fundamental steps in the history of jewelry that you need to know. The first is… ♦ ︎
Long ago the Financial Times published an article which identified the 10 milestones of jewelery over the past two hundred years or so. The article starts from innovation in diamond cutting, with the introduction of fashion to bright, up to 3D printing. It is interesting the analysis, to don’t forget the history of the jewel.
1 Brilliant Cut
Round or brilliant cut diamonds were introduced at the end of the 17th century, after the brilliance of the stones had become predominant in Baroque jewelry. The brilliant cut developed in the laboratories of Paris, Amsterdam and Antwerp, which produced the precursor of the contemporary cut, which today is the one chosen for 75 percent of the diamonds.

Il diamante da 102 carati taglio brillante — 102 carat brilliant cut diamond

2 Electroplating
How do you make gold if you have not? Nothing philosopher’s stone: since 1840 gold and silver are applied using an electrolytic process, which has become a pillar of the production of affordable jewelry. It was the goal of a Birmingham surgeon, John Wright, who developed galvanic baths with potassium cyanide. Wright and his partners George and Henry Elkington, patented electroplating process, allowing you to apply a thin film of gold or silver on a regular jewel of other material , such as steel.

Bracciale in galvanica oro rosa di Swarovski — Rose gold galvanic bracelet by Swarovski

3 Tiffany setting
In 1886 Tiffany invented the most popular ring among women: it elevates the diamond above the ring rim by four or six prongs, instead of being set in the metal. In this way the diamond is seen much more. Since then, the solitaire ring remains alone for a very short time: everyone wants it. Before Tiffany, diamond ring settings were much lower on the finger—the stones were usually set in a gold band or held with shorter prongs, so the stones had a low profile. The Tiffany setting enhances the diamond.

4 Platinum
At the end of the 19th century, the use of platinum spread, a metal that is more difficult to work with, but much more resistant than gold. Thanks to the new platinum treatment techniques, Cartier can create a refined jewel like the tiara with a garland design. Platinum has a remarkable resistance to corrosion, and does not deform even at high temperatures: it is considered a noble metal which ensures a long life to the jewel.

Orecchini in platino e diamanti — Earrings in platinum and diamonds

5 Cultured pearls
Until the early twentieth century pearls were very rare, because only those produced naturally by oysters could be found. From the Akoya variety, Kokichi Mikimoto has instead managed to obtain man-induced pearls. But it is also thanks to his wife. On July 11, 1893, Mikimoto’s wife examined a basket of freshly caught oysters and saw the first hemispherical cultured pearl as beautiful as a natural pearl. Three years later, in 1896, Mikimoto obtained his first patent for cultured pearls.

Bracciale con tre fili di perle coltivate — Bracelet with three strands of cultured pearls

6 Clip Earrings
In the thirties have spread earrings held by a small spring, as the use of the reaction in the ear hole, considered barbarous (it seems that it is no longer the case now). Clip-on earrings can be worn by everyone, while pierced earrings are reserved for those with pierced ears. In the 1970s, however, pierced ears came back into fashion, and not only that.

Verdura, orecchini clip con la forma di grappolo d'uva, con oro, perle, platino e diamanti — Verdura, clip-on earrings in the shape of a bunch of grapes, with gold, pearls, platinum and diamonds

7 Serti Mystérieux
It is an innovation of Van Cleef & Arpels: it use the technique to placed stones on the jewel without showing claws or other devices to immobilize the individual elements. Thin and invisible rails lead the stone into the desired position. Needless to add that it is not a simple task, though it has since been imitated by many other Maison.

Clip Panache MystОrieux. Serti MystОrieux Vitrail zaffiri colorati, diamanti — Van Cleef & Arpels, Panache MystОrieux clip. Serti MystОrieux Vitrail colored sapphires, diamonds

8 Titanium
In the early sixties he comes in titanium. Even in this case is the technology that has allowed the most innovative jewelers like Jar of work this lightweight and durable metal, which allows you to make jewelry with bold shapes, impossible with more traditional alloys such as those with gold and silver.

Bracciale Calla in titanio e diamanti — Calla bracelet by Vhernier in titanium and diamonds

9 3D Design
For the uninitiated, despite the films of the major brands continue to show artists with pen and colors and draw their own collections, the vast majority of jewelry is designed to the computer. This is due to the introduction, in the eighties, of 3D design, with a software called Cad. It’s a less poetic system of colored pencils, but much more efficient.

Progettazione in 3D dei gioielli — 3D jewelry design

10 3D Print
For some years the border is 3D printing. Most initially it was made of plastic, but now you can also use the metal. After designing the jewelry, the path leads to the realization through special printers that instead of churning out the vacation photos, build by subtraction (ie carve the excess material), or by aggregation (adding gold dust or silver, kneaded) for rings, necklaces or bracelets.

Gioielli di platino realizzati con la stampante 3D — Platinum jewelry made with the 3D printer

Henrich & Denzel, platinum power

Published on January 2, 2023

Henrich & Denzel, German jewelers specializing in platinum ♦ ︎
Most of the quality jewels are made with gold. And the most common couple is that with diamonds. But not all of them follow this path: in 1984, Gunter Henrich and Roland Denzel founded Radolfzell on the German side of Lake Constance, a jewelery company that puts everything on platinum, with few exceptions. An unusual move, since platinum has so many good qualities, but it costs more gold. But the ability to work a noble metal in impeccable fashion and a high level of specialization, have earned Henrich and Denzel a well-deserved reputation for jewelery with a solid quality. So much so that in June 2017 they won the Couture Design Award in Las Vegas for the jewelry category with platinum.

Their style is very strict, inspired by Nordic design, at the Bauhaus school. Clean lines, simple, never trivial. The platinum used is the one marked by platinum numbers 950 and 999, but sometimes used in the company of gold 24k, 22k and 18k. Diamonds are often used on pavement, few colored stones. The diamonds, specify the Maison, are cut so they can give a high reflection, allowing stones to capture and reflect light at a rate of up to 96% even in twilight. A brilliant idea, in short. Alessia Mongrando

Bracciale Vela in platino e pavé di diamanti

Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con diamante taglio radiant

Kuwayama to discover

Published on September 12, 2022

Choker vincitore dell' Craftsmanship Award Economy, Trade and Industry Minister's Award (JJJA Awards). È composto con rubellite, diamanti, zaffiri rosa

Kuwayama is a large Japanese jewelry company. It’s time to learn something about it ♦

In Europe many identify Japan with the auto or technology industry. It is commonplace: Japan also has, for example, a tradition in jewelry. Kuwayama is, perhaps, the best known name, also for the size of the company, which is even listed on the stock exchange. Founded by Yukihiro Kuwayama in Sumida-ku, Tokyo, in 1970, the company immediately saw the jewelry from a very industrial point of view, with factories in China and Thailand, as well as Japan.

Born to work precious metals, the company has grown and evolved, to become a consolidated brand also in the design of the jewels, as demonstrated by the numerous international awards (33 at the moment) won by Kuwayama, the latest as Manufacturer of the year at the JNA Awards 2018 in Hong Kong Jewelery & Gem Fair in 2019. The company also has a branch also in Europe, in the capital of diamonds, Antwerp. The jewels offered by the Japanese house are the most varied: from collections with diamonds and semi-precious stones, to lines that are based on Swarovski gems. But most of the production is reserved for other jewelry brands, which use elements such as metal chains.

Collana in platino, diamanti e zaffiri vincitrice ai JJA Jewelry Awards 2018

Kuwayama, collana in platino composta da bolle, Best in Platinum ai Couture Awards 2018

Platinum Design Awards 2009, The Best Award, Nature Inspired Category

IL premio vinto a Las Vegas nella categoria Best in platino

The thousand reflections of Henri Daussi’s cushion

Published on March 12, 2022

Diamanti/Rings

Anello con diamante centrale a taglio Henri Daussi Cushion

History and diamonds by Henri Daussi, a name and a guarantee like the city in which it was born, Antwerp ♦ ︎
In Antwerp, diamonds are like baguettes in Paris or oranges in Sicily: an element that is part of the territory and tradition. And in the Belgian city, Henri Daussi Loots was born and grew up. He learned the art of cutting diamonds from his father, who in turn had learned it from his father. After years of experience, Henri became a great diamond master and worked for other diamond makers to cut only their most unique and significant diamonds.

Henri, given both a passion and an exceptional talent for cutting the diamond, was the master craftsman and pioneer. He designed a cutting wheel to cut diamonds more precisely and uniformly. He also innovated the classic cushion cut, with a variation that makes it between 10% and 30% larger and brighter. But above all, he became famous for heart-shaped diamonds: he was the first to succeed with it. From a small company with two employees, its DTC (Diamond Trading Company) has grown to 200 employees.
Competence and passion remained in the Loots family. Today the founder’s grandchildren, Jeff and Kristiaan Loots, lead the Henri Daussi, brand founded 60 years ago. The jewels of the Maison, it is easy to guess, they are all based on diamonds.

Anello a banda con una tripla fila di diamanti

Anello con diamanti Henri Daussi Cushion cut

PEndente in oro bianco con pavé di diamanti

Anello a banda con diamanti bianchi e neri

Gold, silver, platinum: will they cost more or less?

Published on October 23, 2021

What will the price of gold be in 2022? And that of silver? What about platinum? Questions that all jewelers ask themselves, but also those who plan to buy a jewel or to sell it. The reason for so much curiosity is due to the increase in prices which in recent months has involved almost all raw materials, including metals. Gold, silver and platinum were also affected by the covid-19 pandemic, which for months partially held back mining and sales. Then, the economy restarted almost suddenly along with the demand for jewelry. So some prices went up a lot, but they also went down. How long will the uncertainty last?

Prezzo dell'oro, 1 anno — Prezzo dell’oro, 1 anno

Gold is a symbolic metal, and not just for jewelry. But it is not easy to predict the yellow metal. After hitting $ 2,000 nearly a year ago, the price per ounce dropped to just over $ 1,700 in October, its lowest level since March. A fall that was accelerated by the strength of the US dollar (when the dollar rises, gold usually falls). And, at the moment, it seems that the trend of weakness in prices is destined to continue, with the dollar being worth more (compared to the euro and the yen) and the cost of gold floating. Translated: in the coming months it should not increase, unless there are upheavals now not foreseen.

Prezzo dell'argento, 1 anno — Prezzo dell’argento, 1 anno

Silver followed the price of gold, as is almost always the case: it rose to a peak of $ 28.89 per ounce, arriving in autumn 2021 with an average of $ 22.64 per ounce. In short, it has deflated, but the operators of the metals market expect that the price will rise again. It seems, in fact, that silver jewels are the protagonists of a boom that is destined to last: they cost less, they sell more. There are those who predict, in fact, that silver will reach $ 30 per ounce next year and then rise to $ 50.

Collana in platino e pavé di diamanti by Boucheron

It must be borne in mind that the price of gold, silver and platinum is not only linked to the world of jewelry. Metals, even precious metals, are also used for some industrial productions. In the case of platinum, palladium and rhodium (often used in jewelry together with gold or silver), for example, the price has dropped. The cause, according to industry experts, is linked to the global shortage of chips, the processors used for electronics, but also for cars or household appliances. The shortage of chips slowed the production of automobiles and, as a result, depressed the cost of metals used in catalytic converters.

The price of platinum fell from $ 1,008.29 an ounce in August to $ 988.67 in October. On the other hand, the price had risen a lot last year, reaching 1,214 last May. The strong demand from the world of jewelry (with a 48% increase in demand), however, could keep the price of platinum at high levels, albeit at a lower than record level. Same trend for palladium and rhodium. Palladium dipped below the $ 2,000 mark for the first time since mid-2020, below the high of $ 3,000 it hit in May. And experts predict it will continue its descent. Rhodium was also affected by the shortage of chips and dropped from the level of previous months: it went from a price of 10,205 per ounce in February 2020 to 25,981 per ounce in April. Then it dropped to $ 12,850 in October.

Orecchini a frange con diamanti in platino e palladio by Ming

Monile, the Italian way to platinum

Published on February 16, 2021

Rings/Showroom

Anello in platino, oro 18 carati e diamanti

Why use white gold, which turns yellow after a few years and must be rhodium-plated again, when you can opt for platinum? Aldo Arata, jeweler of the Valenza district, thought that this idea should be explored. And years ago he formed a collaboration with the Polytechnic of Turin. Result: a platinum with a hardness higher than white gold, marketed with Monile’s Everlasting collection. The brand (in Italian the word monile is synonymous with jewel) produces platinum jewels more resistant to scratches and characterized by a brightness destined to last over time. This method mainly produces rings, but also earrings and necklaces.

It all began in 1966 in the small Piedmontese town. The company was founded with the name Arata Fratelli. The founder, Aldo Arata, a goldsmith who had worked as an apprentice to Carlo Barberis, had dealt, among other things, with platinum jewelry. Instead, the Monile brand, specialized in platinum processing, dates back to 1977. The company, which in a series of corporate changes is now called Jewels of Italy and controls the Monile brand, also produces jewelry for third parties. He collaborated with De Beers, Rapaport, Lazare Kaplan. The use of platinum is also the result of refined technological research: metal is more difficult to work with than gold. But it has many advantages: it does not change color, it does not scratch, it is hypoallergenic. So much so that it is also used for some surgical and dental instruments.

Set di collier e orecchini in platino, oro e diamanti

In telling the story of Monile it is necessary, however, to remember a tragic aspect: on 11 September 2001, after having formed a contract with a multinational, his representatives die on the plane bound for the Pentagon hijacked by terrorists. A crisis that has had profound repercussions on the company, which however is still active.

Orecchini Simple LIght in platino e diamanti

Anello a banda larga in platino, oro e diamanti di Monile

Anelli in platino, oro e pavé di diamanti

The jewels of King Farouk of Egypt

Published on August 3, 2020

It was thought lost and, instead, years ago the treasure of King Farouk of Egypt was found in the vault of an Egyptian bank: it is 265 jewels including a 44 carat diamond, which is believed be the third largest in the world. Farouk I of Egypt (Cairo 1920 – Rome, March 18, 1965), was the tenth sovereign of the Mehmet Ali dynasty and the penultimate King of Egypt. His reign ended due to the coup d’état of the military led by Nasser, following which the sovereign was forced to abdicate the throne in favor of the newborn son Ahmad Fuʾād. Exiled, Farouk died in Italy in 1965. Many articles have been written about the eventful life of the sovereign, protagonist of the Dolce Vita, and of his secret jewelry collection. Few, however, lingered on the jewelry collection, until someone was put up for sale by auction houses.

Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels venduta da Sotheby's: faceva parte del tesoro di re Farouk — Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels venduta da Sotheby’s: faceva parte del tesoro di re Farouk

Many jewels are exhibited in the Royal Jewelry Museum in Alexandria, which is located in what was the home of King Farouk’s sister, Fatima. These are about 246 objects accumulated by the Muhammed Ali dynasty, then confiscated by the Egyptian authorities at the end of the monarchy. Not all, however, given that two years ago Sotheby’s put on sale three jewels belonging to the king, including a brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, the favorite brand of Princess Fawzia, another sister of Farouk. For example, in 1939, for her marriage to the crown prince of Iran, Princess Fawzia wore a van Cleef & Arpels diamond and platinum tiara. And other bracelets and choker of platinum and diamonds belonged to Farouk’s mother, Queen Nazli, wife of King Fuad I.

Collana di Boucheron indossata dalla moglie di Farouk il giorno del suo matrimonio. Ha diamanti per 34,6 carati

For example, a diamond necklace that supports a flexible sunburst-shaped breastplate, centered on a round stone weighing about 6 carats, set with 118 round diamonds larger than the weight of about 134 carats, accentuated by smaller round diamonds than the weighing about 27 carats, completed by diamond baguettes weighing about 50 carats, was sold for 4.3 million dollars three years ago by Sotheby’s. It is this is just one of the jewels that are part of the treasure accumulated by the Muhammed Ali dynasty, which has reigned uninterruptedly in Egypt for over a century and a half.

Collana in platino e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1939. È composta da oltre 600 diamanti rotondi e baguette: apparteneva alla madre di Faouk, regina Nazli

La collana di diamanti indossata dalla regina Nazli

Tiara con pavone e fiori di loto della principessa Farida, indossata per il matrimonio con re Farouk. In cima c’è un diamante a forma di cuore di circa 4 carati

Collana di diamanti e platino del tesoro di re Farouk, indossata dalla prima moglie Farida

Farouk e Farida il giorno del matrimonio

Il diadema del matrimonio fu un regalo della regina madre Nazli. Il collier da 114 diamanti per 346 carati, invece fu commissionato da Farouk a Boucheron come regalo per la sposa

Amy Burton, designer number Unum

Published on February 20, 2020

Rings/alta gioielleria

The unique pieces of Amy Burton: jewels with extraordinary stones and extraordinary geometries ♦ ︎
Of course, to be the daughter of Stephen and Janie Burton, owners of the Hancocks vintage jewelry boutique in London, offers a good advantage. But Amy Burton did not take advantage of the custom with large, precious jewels of the period to conquer a space behind the family windows. In fact, in 2016, she decided to start her own business with a high-end jewelry shop: unique pieces, not at all tending to an antiquated or even classic taste.
Her journey began with a gemology degree at the Gemmological Association in London and she continued to take inspiration from different subjects. For example, the Disorient collection is inspired by a Venetian gate.

The Unum jewelery line recalls Latin and indicates that they are unique pieces. Amy Burton’s jewels sign a marriage between great exceptional stones, in the sense that they are for cut or color different from those usually found in jewelry, and intricate geometric constructions that, despite the often generous dimensions of rings or bracelets, succeed to offer a pleasant sense of lightness. Its jewels, among other things, unlike some other luxury jewelry brands, are all made in London, obviously by expert hands of craftsmen. Between sculpture and architecture, Amy Burton’s jewels offer, indeed, a London sense of grandeur, but without overdoing it: a typically English character. Rudy Serra

Amy Burton, orecchini Crescendo, tormalina e granato

Anello con morganite rosa di 8,32 carati taglio Asscher

Anello Solis con grande zaffiro giallo non riscaldato, diamanti, platino

Anello della collezione Disorient in platino, diamanti e grande acquamarina

Anelli della collezione Disorient in oro e diamanti

Anello della collezione Unum, con diamanti bianchi

The special gems of Forever Unique

Published on February 13, 2020

Showroom/Rings

Orecchini in oro bianco, zaffiri, diamanti

There are many gem specialists who, from the simple passion (and competence) for precious stones, evolve into jewelers: this is the case of Osigem, a Milanese company (located a stone’s throw from Piazza Duomo), born from studies and activity in diamond trade by Aberto Osimo, and who launched the Forever Unique brand.

Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi

The jewelery brand stands out because it uses, among other things, the cut of the Ideal Square diamond. They are stones extracted and worked in Canada with very refined cutting techniques: 68 facets that create the Cuori & Frecce path. In short, it enhances the reflections of light inside, doubling it. With these premises, here is Memory: platinum and diamond jewelry. Platinum and the Everlasting patent, explains the company, ensure constant hardness and brightness over time, without scratches even after years of daily use. In his intentions, Memory “celebrates time through an evocative and multisensory journey in which jewels are associated with musical instruments and forms”.

Osigem has also signed an agreement with De Beers Group which allows the company to import diamonds certified by the Iidgr, International Institute of Diamond Grading & Research, part of the De Beers Group of Companies. The diamonds, accompanied by the Diamond Grading Report, bear the initials Dbg (De Beers Group) Iidgr followed by the certificate number. Reported on the certificate itself and engraved on the diamond belt thanks to a special laser engraving, the brand guarantees its quality and origin. In fact, in addition to the usual 4 C, Carat (carat), Color (color), Clarity (purity) and Cut (cut), De Beers certifies, for its diamonds, a fifth C, Confidence (certainty), to indicate safety which comes from the transparent extraction path. Giulia Netrese

Bracciale Groumette in oro rosa, diamanti, smalto azzurro

Orecchini Groumette in oro rosa, diamanti, smalto azzurro

Orecchini in oro bianco, rubini, diamanti

Anello trilogy, oro bianco e diamanti taglio brillante

Ciondolo con diamanti e smalto rosa a forma di lettera

Jewelry and allergy

Published on September 22, 2019

Also read: How to avoid nickel allergies

Do you have jewelry that causes skin allergy or irritation? Here’s how to solve your problem and avoid a nickel allergy ♦

Some argue that allergies are on the rise. As for jewels, unfortunately, they have always been a problem. The reason is simple: there are metals that cause allergic reactions when in contact with the skin. But there are also less dangerous metals for allergy sufferers, such as gold or steel.

This is why allergy sufferers choose gold jewelry. The yellow metal, in fact, is hypoallergenic, that is it rarely causes reactions in contact with the skin. But then, why does it also happen who wears a gold jewel to suffer from redness or irritation on the part of the body in contact with earrings, bracelets or necklaces?

Irritation caused by jewellery: this is an allergic reaction called contact dermatitis and is caused when pure gold is not used. It is a problem that, according to some calculations, affects 10% of women. This metal, in its natural state (24 carats) is too soft and deforms easily. For this reason, jewelers have linked it together with other metals, such as nickel. In this way the gold jewel becomes more resistant. In Europe, however, for over 20 years now the EU has issued a directive, which has become law in the adhering countries, which drastically reduces the use of nickel in jewellery. Nickel, however, continues to be present in jewelry made before the new rules. In Italy, for example, the use of nickel must not only be within the limits of the law, but also indicated on the label.

However, nickel isn’t the only metal alloyed in jewelry that can cause an allergy. In fact, it must be remembered that all 18, 14 or 9 carat gold jewels are alloyed with other metals. 18-karat gold, for example, means that out of 10 grams of metal, only 7.5 are pure gold, while at 14-karat this drops to around 50%.

How to avoid allergies. How to avoid nickel allergy? The first answer is obvious: if you buy a vintage jewel, ask the jeweler if the metal alloy of the jewel contains nickel.

If you already have jewelry at home that causes skin irritation or allergies, a simple trick is to use nail polish: brushed on the jewelry will avoid contact of the metal with the skin. You have to use the transparent one, of course. This system doesn’t work well with chain necklaces, but it can solve the problem with a ring or bracelet. Just cover the inside of the jewel, the one in contact with the skin, with the enamel. This prevents the nickel from coming into contact with the skin of the hands or wrist. Naturally it is necessary to verify over time that the enamel is not consumed with the use of the jewel.

Other metals. Another, more expensive way to avoid allergies is to choose platinum or titanium jewelry, two hypoallergenic metals. Copper, recommended by many, is certainly not a real alternative to gold: not only does it not have the same luster (even if it costs much less), but when in contact with sweat, it can ruin and dye the skin. Even silver, as long as it is sterling (92.5% pure) is often tolerated by those who have a nickel allergy, but must be constantly cleaned to prevent blackening.
Read also: Are cheap jewels dangerous?

Hedy Martinelli, knit diamonds

Published on July 26, 2019

Orecchini con maglia in argento e diamanti brown

New unique pieces signed by the Roman designer Hedy Martinelli, with the ancient technique of steel mesh, gold and diamonds ♦

Iron and steel with platinum and diamonds? Yes, she can: Hedy Martinelli, coming from a tradition started by his maternal grandmother, brings in fine jewelery a breath of avant-garde with metallic fabrics that seem crushes armour of medieval knights in tourney and match them with diamonds paved of various sizes. Result? Spiral shaped earrings that dangle form iron strips, and, despite the material, have a light appearance. There is a bracelet composed of many, large and small, thin strands of tubogas steel, interspersed with thick circles in precious metals and diamonds, and the draped knit and diamonds cuff.

Bracciale con maglia placcata oro e diamanti

It occurs in the production, each jewel is a unique piece forged and handmade, the burnished finish and colors with coral, pink and blue sapphires, gold nuggets and cabochon rubies.

Bracciale con maglia in argento e diamanti

Anello con zaffiri briolette su oro annerito

Anello con maglia in argento annerito e diamanti

Colette Jewelry, luxurious extravagance

Published on October 22, 2018

Colette Jewelry, Two piece bow, anello in oro nero 18 carati e diamanti neri a forma di fiocco in due pezzi da indossare soggoli o insieme

Creative jewels, surprising, a bit strange: they are those of Colette Steckel and her Colette Jewelry ♦ ︎

French by mother, childhood in Mexico, Colette Steckel is the brand Colette Jewelery designer, extravagant jewelry inspired a bit from everywhere, from flowers, stars, from romantic bows and even the most masculine gears of a car. Intricate pieces that demonstrate a technical education, she studied graphic design at Mexico City’s University, and express femininity drawing on Hispanic and French culture.

Two piece bow, anello in oro nero 18 carati e diamanti neri a forma di fiocco in due pezzi da indossare soggoli o insieme

For example, in the ring Two-pieces bow there is all the delicacy and the frivolity of a bow, the complexity of curved lines manufacturing and the engineering joints that make it a jewel to be worn in various ways. It is not easy to turn a simple ribbon in something new. And the same goes for the classic chevalier ring with a special twist. As well as the ear cuff with a bird on top of the ear ready to take flight and the wing resting on the lobe that gives illuminates the face as a stud well conceived. In short, two subjects for anything but original designed in such a way that the jewel as a whole it is. And yet full of grace. Made of 18-carat gold, platinum and diamonds selected with the expertise of a graduate gemologist Gia.

Collana in oro 18 carati, smalto e diamanti

Anello in oro 18 carati, smalto e diamanti

Orecchini in oro 18 carati, smalto e diamanti

Anello chevalier in oro 18 carati, smalto e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, turchesi, onice

Anello Beetle in oro annerito, topazi e diamanti

Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e perle

Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, malachite, lapislazzuli, onice

Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, malachite

New Tiffany engagement rings

Published on September 23, 2018

Rings/Tiffany/Showroom

Tiffany introduces a new engagement ring: change diamond cut and platinum or gold band design ♦

When the most requested jewelry brand for engagement rings introduces something new it is an event. And it is precisely the definition for Tiffany’s new engagement rings. The American Maison renews its proposals after ten years and introduces a new type: Tiffany True. It’s the second line designed by Reed Krakoff, who succeeded Francesca Amfitheatrof as project manager in February 2017. It is called True because the intention is to show the true beauty of a diamond thanks to a particular cut and the new setting of the stone. The metal band is designed to better filter the light and accentuate the reflections of the diamond.

Seen in profile, the ring also shows a T that blocks the diamond and allows you to limit the prongs that stop the stone to four.

Obviously the T refers to Tiffany, but also to True. The ring is offered with a platinum band with a colorless True-cut diamond, or in 18 carat yellow gold with a yellow cushion cut diamond. With this design the diamond is also lower, that is closer to the finger than the classic model. To be added that also gold and diamond are ethically certified, as is required now and that the stones are of the best quality. You like it? You have to be patient: the Tiffany True rings will arrive in stores in the fall in North America and in the world in 2019. Giulia Netrese

Solitaire Tiffany setting (con sei griffe) — Classico solitaire Tiffany setting (con sei griffe)

Anello di fidanzamento Tiffany Setting in platino e diamanti di Tiffany & Co. Prezzo su richiesta

Morphée Joaillerie, the ring is worth double

Published on April 8, 2018

Rings/Showroom

Anello Tu Me Complètes di Morpheée Joaillerie

A ring for two: the idea of Morphée Joaillerie combines platinum with diamonds ♦ ︎
Morphée Joaillerie, Maison founded by the Belgian designer Pamela Hastry, presents her first set that combines engagement ring and marriage, since it doubles and can be worn by both. The line of rings “two in one”, is called Tu Me Complètes, that is you complete me, and it’s make with platinum and diamonds in a special piece. The philosophy behind this collection is that which revolves around the concept of complementarity. From a goldsmith point of view, without the platinum the diamond part can not be close. And from a metaphysical point of view, personalities may seem in conflict, but they can also create a strong link and a form of completeness.
In short, almost an Oriental reverberation of the concepts of yin and yang, opposites that form a unity, like darkness and light, night and day, fullness and emptiness. But perhaps the most surprising result is the jewels or, better, the octagonal shaped rings, like an emerald cut: modular, half in platinum and half with a part made up of four diamonds with a special baguette cut. Certainly out of the ordinary. Lavinia Andorno

The platinum ring with three smells

Published on December 3, 2017

A Norwegian artist and a German designer-designer have designed a ring that emanates three fragrances ♦ ︎
What can be the scent of a jewel? Now, at least in one case, it can be established. The idea is of the Norwegian artist Sissel Tolaas, who together with designer and goldsmith Georg Hornemann have created a unique piece as a meditation about the odor world. The smells are not just pleasant or unpleasant sensations, but they condition people’s lives as well as affect their behavior. Georg Hornemann has studied various types of odor containers. And he thought of recreating a jewel inspired by the rings containing poison, used by noblemen in the Renaissance. At the same time, Sissel Tolaas, an artist who has worked with smells for years, has designed three fragrances that have special goals: provoking attraction, distraction, or attention.
Through a rotating mechanism inside the jewel, the intensity of each smell can be controlled. A mechanism allows to recharge the ring. But it’s not a toy: the ring is made entirely of platinum and is available in only six specimens. The price is 18,000 euros. Federico Graglia

Il disegno dell'anello di platino — Il disegno dell’anello di platino

L'anello di Sissel Tolaas e Georg Hornemann — L’anello di Sissel Tolaas e Georg Hornemann

Picchiotti, brilliant to bridal

Published on October 3, 2017

Anello in platino con diamanti baguette e diamante taglio cuscino

The new Picchiotti bridal collection, all diamond and precious stones ♦ ︎
The celebrations for the first 50 years of Picchiotti continue with a special new collection dedicated to the sacred moment of the couple: marriage. Whatever the style, the rite, and the related forms of libation, the wedding day comes after a promise, but also a premise. What is always before is, in fact, the choice of an appropriate gem to celebrate the moment to mark on the book of life. Often this is a ring, but it is not said that the gift of a jewel is forcibly the prerogative of the groom. A parent, for example, can give a jewel which is also become a small capital that is revalued over time. But we back to Picchiotti: the new bridal collection does not lose what is the code of the Maison of Valenza, the choice of large colored stones, and particularly diamonds of great quality with great brilliance. A greatness, in short, that does not reside in size, but in choosing to point to the top. More than the adjectives, in any case, the images are effective. Giulia Netrese

Anello con diamanti taglio smeraldo e baguette

Anello di fidanzamento con diamanti taglio smeraldo e baguette

Anello con diamanti e rubino taglio a cuore

Anello con diamanti e zaffiro con taglio ottagonale

Anello Toi et Moi in diamanti bianchi e fancy yellow

Anello Toi et Moi in diamanti bianchi e diamante fancy yellow taglio smeraldo

Platinum and gold for wedding rings

Published on January 12, 2017