Lorenz Bäumer

Titanium jewelry: should you buy them?




Titanium jewelry: they are the last frontier of jewelry. Beautiful, but also difficult to make. Should you buy them? ♦

Long live titanium, which has become synonymous with creative audacity and high technology in jewelry from a key element in the aerospace industry. To what does it owe its success? To lightness, first of all: with a weight less than a fifth compared to gold, it allows large volumes and the same comfort in wearing, especially for earrings and bracelets. Not only that: those who associate titanium only with its sad gray color of origin are wrong: this metal can be dyed in bright and full shades, from lawn green to lacquer red, to intense purple, to electric blue. Furthermore, whatever the color obtained through an oxidation process, unlike what is done with the galvanic process on silver or other metals, it is much more resistant: it does not fade with time and does not risk detachment. But this is not the only technical advantage: its extreme resistance allows you to use less metal than gold and platinum for the frames and to create very thick pavé.

Masterpiece 2019: due spille con diamanti e zaffiri blu su titanio
Cindy Chao, Masterpiece 2019: due spille con diamanti e zaffiri blu su titanio

How to use it. Titanium is often used for thin and light metal architectures that serve as gem racks. It is no coincidence that most titanium jewels are literally covered with stones. One of the first to experiment with this material in jewelry was Jar (Joseph Arthur Rosenthal) in the late 1980s, and on the occasion of his retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum in New York, he created a collection of titanium and aluminum jewelery for sale inside the museum at affordable prices, from 2 to 5 thousand dollars. The fact that it is less expensive than gold must not be misleading, its processing requires great skill and technical knowledge, so it may happen that some jewels are even more expensive than their cousins ​​made with more noble metals.
Wallace Chan, Cosmic Destiny. Spilla in titanio, diamanti e zaffiri
Wallace Chan, Cosmic Destiny. Spilla in titanio, diamanti e zaffiri

The admirers. Titanium jewels, therefore, are usually embellished with super precious stones, such as those of Wallace Chan, the jeweler from Hong Kong, or the Swiss Suzanne Syz, who made titanium his signature. And yet the sinuous tracery of Pomellato, which chose it to renew the Arabesque collection, or the delicate leaves of the Chopard bracelet with blue sapphires, the magnetic colors of the flower-shaped brooch by Giovanni Ferraris or the slight setting of the brooch by Michelle Ong, one of the few people who can boast a friendship with Jar. But there are also those who focus everything on design rather than precious stones, such as the Italian Maison Vhernier.
Orecchini in titanio verde e diamanti di Jacob & Co
Orecchini in titanio verde e diamanti di Jacob & Co

Is it worth buying titanium jewelry? Titanium, like metal, costs less than gold, but is more difficult to use in jewelry. That said, the value of a titanium jewel is not determined by the cost of the raw material. If the gold of a jewel can be melted and resold, the same cannot be proposed for titanium. Therefore, when you buy a titanium jewel, you choose the design, the signature of the Maison, the gems that make up the piece. It is not said that a titanium jewel is more advantageous than a gold or platinum jewel: it depends on the stones that compose it.
Anello farfalla della collezione Titanium
Giovanni Ferraris, anello farfalla della collezione Titanium

How do you clean titanium? In addition to being light, titanium is very resistant: no problem for cleaning that can be performed with the usual mix of warm water, two drops of liquid soap and a toothbrush with soft bristles. If anything, the problem may be the structure of the jewel. Titanium, as we have explained, is often used to make jewels with a particularly imaginative shape, often together with many precious stones. You must be very careful, therefore, not to ruin the structure of the jewel with an excessively energetic cleaning. Monica Battistoni

Earcuff Nuri indossato
Boucheron, earcuff Nuri indossato. Titanio, oro giallo, acquamarina, berillo, tsavoriti, onice, lacca nera, zaffiri, diamanti, gialli e bianchi

Anello in oro, titanio, diamanti, ambra, granati, opale di fuoco, zaffiri
Lydia Courteille, anello in oro, titanio, diamanti, ambra, granati, opale di fuoco, zaffiri
Bracciale Calla in titanio e diamanti
Bracciale Calla di Vhernier in titanio e diamanti
Anello in titanio, diamanti e oro rosa
Syz Fireworks, anello in titanio blu, diamanti e oro rosa
Orecchini in titanio, diamanti e rubini
Fabio Salini, orecchini in titanio, diamanti e rubini
Collier a forma di piuma in titanio con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba
Moussaieff, collier a forma di piuma in titanio con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba
Jar, orecchini Geranium in titanio verde e rosso
Jar, orecchini Geranium in titanio verde e rosso
Chopard, bracciale Red Carpet Collection 2012 in titanio con 2.417 zaffiri blu
Chopard, bracciale Red Carpet Collection 2012 in titanio con 2.417 zaffiri blu
Michelle Ong, spilla Forbidden Fruit in platino e titanio con una tormalina rosa centrale
Michelle Ong, spilla Forbidden Fruit in platino e titanio con una tormalina rosa centrale
Michele Della Valle, spilla Bow in titanio con pavé di diamanti incolori taglio brillante
Michele Della Valle, spilla Bow in titanio con pavé di diamanti incolori taglio brillante

Suzanne Syz, orecchini Tie that knot in titanio e oro bianco con pavé di diamanti e berilli verdi blu taglio briolette
Suzanne Syz, orecchini Tie that knot in titanio e oro bianco con pavé di diamanti e berilli verdi blu taglio briolette







The surprises of Lorenz Bäumer

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The unlimited imagination of Lorenz Bäumer, from engineering studies to Palce Vendôme ♦

Born in Washington to a French mother and German father, a diplomat, with a career as an engineer behind: Lorenz Bäumer has become instead a great jeweler. If you are delighted to dazzle for jewelry, you must visit in his boutique in Place Vendome, opened near big as Chaumet, Boucheron and Cartier. He, frankly, to the other jewelers has nothing to envy. Indeed, he would stress, with irony, that among the great jewelers “I am the only one alive.” His first creation was a ring-shaped vortex of gold surrounding a diamond, called Wave: he explains that loves the beach and practice surfing.

Orecchini pendenti in oro rosa, diamanti bianchi, ametiste, citrini, zaffiri rosa, gialli, multicolori, tormaline rosa e perle d'acqua dolce
Orecchini pendenti in oro rosa, diamanti bianchi, ametiste, citrini, zaffiri rosa, gialli, multicolori, tormaline rosa e perle d’acqua dolce

His style is well defined. Gold threads that draw complicated but simple arabesques, large colored gemstones, forms also cheerful, not very practiced in fine jewelery, which usually prefers to follow the tradition. Instead Lorenz Bäumer loves the joy, the combination irreverent, as the collection Good Girl / Bad Girl, as rings with revolver set in a cross with diamonds blacks and whites. Or the unusual Garden cubist, with stones that overlap in a kind of precious architecture. If you love luxury, but also the surprise, they are the jewels for you. Here is a selection of jewels.

Anello a catena in oro e diamanti
Anello a catena in oro e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco rodiato nero e lacca nera con granato spessartite e pavé di zaffiri blu, rosa e viola
Anello in oro bianco rodiato nero e lacca nera con granato spessartite e pavé di zaffiri blu, rosa e viola
Anello in oro bianco rodiato nero e laccaca nera con tormalina verde tempestata di zaffiri rosa e tormaline paraiba
Anello in oro bianco rodiato nero e laccaca nera con tormalina verde tempestata di zaffiri rosa e tormaline paraiba
Anello in oro giallo con tormalina rosa e zaffiri multicolori
Anello in oro giallo con tormalina rosa e zaffiri multicolori
recchini staccabili in oro bianco rodiato nero e lacca nera con berilli verdi, acquamarine e pavé di zaffiri blu, rosa, viola e arancioni
recchini staccabili in oro bianco rodiato nero e lacca nera con berilli verdi, acquamarine e pavé di zaffiri blu, rosa, viola e arancioni
Anello in oro rosa tempestato di diamanti bianchi, ornato di zaffiri rosa, zaffiro pesca, citrino rotondo e perla dei Mari del Sud
Anello in oro rosa tempestato di diamanti bianchi, ornato di zaffiri rosa, zaffiro pesca, citrino rotondo e perla dei Mari del Sud

Orecchini in oro bianco rodiato nero e lacca nera con berilli verdi e pavé di diamanti neri, zaffiri arancioni e rosa e tormaline Paraiba
Orecchini in oro bianco rodiato nero e lacca nera con berilli verdi e pavé di diamanti neri, zaffiri arancioni e rosa e tormaline Paraiba







High jewelery at Pad London





Pad London returns with a group of Maison and high jewelery designer. Here’s who they are ♦ ︎

It’s called Pad London and is the sister of the similar Parisian fair. But this is no less important, at least for jewelry. Indeed, the International Exhibition for Modern Art, Design, Decorative Arts, Photography, Jewelery & Tribal Art (30 September – 6 October 2019) offers the lucky ones who can buy high-end jewelery pieces some masterpieces by selected Maison or designers.

Ciondolo con opale di fuoco di Taffin
Ciondolo con opale di fuoco di Taffin

In Berkeley Square, London, United Kingdom, 69 major international galleries will be displaying pieces of contemporary design, glass and ceramics, and collectible jewelry. Like those of the French designer Lorenz Bäumer, former artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s fine jewelry. But also by Boghossian, Fabio Salini, Taffin, Elisabetta Cipriani Wearable Art, Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie, Karry Berreby, Glenn Spiro, Hemmerle, Objet Emotion, Valery Demure, The Beautiful Watch, Suzanne Syz, Walid Akkad.

Pad London
Berkeley Square, Berkeley Square, Mayfair, London W1J 5AX
PHONE
+33 (0) 1 53 30 85 20
From 30 September to 6 October 2019
OPENING TIME
Monday: collectors preview 11: 00-20: 00, VIP opening Tuesday 11: 00-20: 00, from Wednesday to Saturday 11: 00-20: 00, Sunday 11: 00-18: 00
www.pad-fairs.com





Anna Hu con la collana Monet Waterlilies
Anna Hu con la collana Monet Waterlilies

Orecchini di smeraldi di Glenn Spiro
Orecchini di smeraldi di Glenn Spiro
Bracciale di ebano, argento, oro bianco e tsavorite di Hemmerle
Bracciale di ebano, argento, oro bianco e tsavorite di Hemmerle
Orologio in esposizione da Karry Berry
Orologio in esposizione da Karry Berry
Anello con moissanite di Boghossian
Anello con moissanite di Boghossian

Anelli di Elisabetta Cipriani
Anelli di Elisabetta Cipriani







Jewels for collectors at the Pad London





Pad London is home to collectible jewelry and exceptional designers. Here is who exposes ♦ ︎

On the Thames there is a design festival with the 12th edition of Pad London (1-7 October 2018). And where there is design there is also jewelry. While most of the exhibition space is dedicated to the proposals of 68 important galleries including art, design, decorative arts, tribal art and antiques, a significant part of the Pad is dedicated to jewelery, collectors’ items. Here are the jewelery brands: Walid Akkad (France), Lorenz Bäumer (France), Karry Berreby (France), G. (United Kingdom), Hemmerle (Germany), Ma Tei (France), Object D’Émotion – Valery Demure (United Kingdom), Siegelson (USA), Suzanne Syz (Switzerland).

Collectible jewelry, wearable art and vintage jewelry and contemporary crafts, is gaining huge success at international fairs.

Una passata edizione di Pad London
Una passata edizione di Pad London

For this edition the fair has therefore expanded its offer with four new specialized galleries. The French designer Lorenz Bäumer, former artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s high jewelery and creator of collections for Chanel, exhibits architectural pieces that reveal his training as an engineer and his passion for poetry, nature and color. The Lebanese designer Walid Akkad offers minimal jewelry, reflecting his quest for timeless beauty and impeccable work. Glenn Spiro, English master jeweler and former Christie’s expert, brings his spectacular designs inspired by nature and demonstrates his innovative work with titanium. Objet d’Émotion – Valéry Demure, on the other hand, brings together a selection of vintage gems and contemporary creations of emerging talents such as Melanie Georgacopoulos, Francesca Villa, Polly Galles and Nadia Morgenthaler.

There is also Siegelson’s antique jewelry, blue-chip jewelry as an outstanding 1951 Suzanne Belperron suite on sale for the first time ever and an iconic Art Moderne bracelet by Jean Després since 1931.

Finally, Hemmerle, Ma Tei and Suzanne Syz present their coveted contemporary creations while Karry Berreby exhibits vintage and contemporary collectibles. Federico Graglia





Orecchini di Hemmerle
Orecchini di Hemmerle

Bracciale di Hemmerle
Bracciale di Hemmerle
Lorenz Bäumer, collezione Astrolabe
Lorenz Bäumer, collezione Astrolabe
Lorenz Bäumer, collezione Inséparable
Lorenz Bäumer, collezione Inséparable

Lorenz Bäumer, collezione Lumiére Blanche
Lorenz Bäumer, collezione Lumiére Blanche