libro Archives | gioiellis.com

Which tiara to choose for the wedding?

Published on August 19, 2022

Which tiara to choose for the wedding? Better to take some examples from the famous ones. This was explained in a book by Enrica Roddolo, a journalist for Corriere della Sera ♦

It’s better the Halo tiara of Kate (Middleton) or Meander Tiara of Zara (daughter of Princess Anne)? There’s not a Royal wedding without a glittering tiara, as wrote by «Yes! Real weddings, royal weddings», book written by Enrica Roddolo and Giuliana Parabiago (Vallardi). Yeah, but what kind of circle of diamonds, precious stones or pearls choose? Here’s what they chose princesses and queens, as told by the volume about the most fascinating Royal weddings in the history of the twentieth century.

The wedding tiara of Kate, dubbed by its creator, the Maison Cartier of Paris, Halo Tiara – shimmering with nearly 800 diamonds round cut and 149 baguette cut – was a gift of love of King George VI for the Queen Mother. And he was commissioned in Paris and worn on various occasions by Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, later better known as the “queen mother”, above the fringe in vogue in the Twenties. Not surprisingly, the 1923 outfit, worn by Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, it seems that the “flappers” dancers. As the daughter of King George, Elizabeth II, he would have raised as a glittering circle to stop his curls resting behind. And, before ending up on the black head of Kate, he had already been given by the queen to her sister Margaret and her daughter Anna.

Even more fascinating the story, which unfolds over time, of the tiara worn by Zara, the daughter of the Princess Anne, for her “yes”, pronounced in Edinburgh at the end of summer 2011, with the champion of rugby Mike Tindall. It is the Meander Tiara, which is inspired by the clean lines of classical Greek. Not surprisingly, it belonged to the mother of Prince Philip of Greece, Duke of Edinburgh. Ethereal and very classic, the tiara had been given as a wedding gift, just to Elizabeth Princess Alice of Battenberg, who had been married to Prince Andrew of Greece. In fact, Elizabeth did not wore it on and never passed it a few years later a young Princess Anne, who instead has wore it very often enthusiastically.

Even the Queen Mother, Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, she wore a magnificent tiara for her “yes” to the future George VI: the beautiful Strathmore Rose, handed down over time, in the family. And, again, a bright circle of diamonds and precious stones for many years after will also to choose princesses more unconventional as Sarah Ferguson, who married the Duke of York, Andrew, in 1986, in an ivory dress designed by Lindka Cierach; and then Sophie Rhys-Jones in 1999, for his “yes” to Prince Edward, put on a white dress Samantha Shaw, fluid lines. Until the tiara worn by Kate Middleton also, for the “yes” of 2011.

And in Spain, the Bourbon court? In 1962 Sofia was married to a king without a kingdom, but on his head shone a magnificent tiara. To bring at the altar Juan Carlos – he was only the son of the Count of Barcelona, and was away the throne of the Bourbons that he would resume only in the seventies, after the death of General Franco – Sofia had to agree to three weddings. The royal house of the Greek Orthodox faith, the Catholic beliefs of Juan Carlos and in the midst of a thousand other political and diplomatic issues, including discontent Greek opposition that presaged trouble, made inevitable that complex ceremonial. The same tiara, May 22, 2004, framed the face of Letizia. Yet, little else unites those distant orange blossom sixties between Juan Carlos and Sofi to ones, still fragrant, between Felipe and Letizia. A tiara-love relationship between generations.

dian thumb — La Tiara Spencer indossata da Lady Diana

La Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara — La Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara

La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara — La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara

La regina Elisabetta il giorno del suo matrimonio

Un'immagine degli anni Venti della tiara Greville — Un’immagine degli anni Venti della tiara Greville

Rose Elizabeth Bowes, la regina madre, moglie di Giorgio VI

Sophie Rhys Jones, contessa del Wessex e moglie di Edward

Tiara Étoile in oro bianco con diamante D VVS2 taglio brillante da 0,93 carati, 2 diamanti D VVS1 taglio brillante da 0,73 e 0,70 carati, 2 diamanti D VVS1 taglio brillante da 0,53 carati ciascuno, 2 diamanti D VVS2 taglio brillante del peso di 0,54 carati ciascuno, 2 diamanti E VVS1 ed E VVS2 taglio brillante del peso di 0,54 carati ciascuno e diamanti taglio brillante. — Chaumet, tiara Étoile in oro bianco con diamante D VVS2 taglio brillante da 0,93 carati, 2 diamanti D VVS1 taglio brillante da 0,73 e 0,70 carati, 2 diamanti D VVS1 taglio brillante da 0,53 carati ciascuno, 2 diamanti D VVS2 taglio brillante del peso di 0,54 carati ciascuno, 2 diamanti E VVS1 ed E VVS2 taglio brillante del peso di 0,54 carati ciascuno e diamanti taglio brillante.

House of Garrard, tiara in oro bianco e diamanti

The history of jewels in 100 stones

Published on January 15, 2022

news

Alcune pagine del libro Jewels That Made History: 100 Stones, Myths and Legends

Jewelry is beautiful to wear, but if you really love jewelry, you would do well to get to know it a little better. Because the history of jewelry can suggest new ideas and, above all, it can help you better evaluate your jewels and those you want to buy (or those they give you). A suggestion could be to browse Jewels That Made History: 100 Stones, Myths and Legends, an illustrated book (Rizzoli, New York, 45 euros, but can be found online) written by Stellene Volandes, who tells the story of great jewels, from those of royal families, to those of Holywood actresses like Audrey Hepburn, to the super jewels worn today by celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, Lady Gaga and Meghan Markle.

Jewels That Made History: 100 Stones, Myths and Legends

The book, in 224 pages, summarizes the evolution of design in the historical and artistic context, but also tells episodes and anecdotes related to jewelry, from the sets worn by Lady Diana to the brooches chosen by Jackie Kennedy, which are transformed from simple ornaments into dense messages of meaning. Historical images of great period jewels, also worn by men (like a maharaja), enrich the volume.

Jewels That Made History: 100 Stones, Myths and Legends, edito da Rizzoli

Il libro, in lingua inglese, è di 224 pagine

Understanding yesterday’s jewelry to understand today’s jewelry

Published on December 15, 2021

news

Tiara Belle Epoque, una delle 500 illustrazioni del libro

Before buying a jewel it is better to know it. Especially if the jewel is of great value. And to judge a jewel it is necessary to understand the quality and style. For this reason, since 1989 an indispensable guide for those who love (or want to invest) in jewelry is Understanding Jewelery, a book written by David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti. This jewelry bible now returns with a focus on the 20th century. This is, in fact, a particularly important period for jewelry, in which new techniques were developed and new styles introduced.

Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century

Understanding Jewelery: The Twentieth Century (ACC Art Books, 300 pages, over 500 photos. Price: 76 euros or $ 72.50) analyzes, and shows with lots of images, the changes for each decade, among the major jewelry brands, the trends , the news. The book, a large volume (325 x 275 mm) with hardcover, also includes a new series of photographs: the text of the two authors is, in any case, understandable even to non-experts in jewelry. David Bennett was the world president of Sotheby’s international jewelry division and president of Sotheby’s Switzerland. Daniela Mascetti was Sotheby’s Chairman of Jewelery in Europe, where she has worked since 1980, opening the department based in Milan. She is also one of the most experienced scholars in the history of jewelry, her search for her has seen several noteworthy auctions, from the Duchess of Windsor’s jewels to the collections of Elton John and Gina Lollobrigida.

Alcune pagine del libro Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century

Pagine del libro Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century

Una pagina del libro Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century

The too brief art of Frédéric Zaavy

Published on February 13, 2021

news/alta gioielleria

Bracciale Nymphéas composto da 5.000 gemme, tra cui diamanti, granati demantoidi, alessandriti

Remembering the jewelers who have left their mark on the world of jewelry is important. And Frédéric Zaavy (1964-2011) is one of them. A book was recently dedicated to the designer, that photographs the work of one of the most imaginative and refined artists. Zaavy represented the third generation of a family of diamond traders. Born in Paris, after the École des Arts Appliqués and the École des Beaux-Arts, he decided to devote himself to the creation of extraordinary unique pieces instead of joining the family business.

He has also traveled extensively in search of precious stones to use as the colors of a painter’s palette. And the comparison is not accidental: one of his most famous pieces, the Nymphéas bracelet, was created with 5,000 gems including diamonds and sapphires, and is inspired by the paintings of the Impressionist painter Monet. He started his business together with his Taiwanese partner, Lisa Chen, with whom Zaavy set up a Maison active in the Far East. To then return to Paris, after the separation.

Anello con diamanti e gemme colorate di Frédéric Zaavy

Frédéric Zaavy also worked extensively for Fabergé, the historic high-end jewelery brand: he became the exclusive jeweler for the Maison in 2008. The Fabergé brand secured the copyright for 45 of Zaavy’s pieces, as well as 55 additional pieces commissioned: jewels that have had valuations between 40,000 to 7 million dollars. Work now photographed on the book Stardust: The Work and Life of Jeweler Extraordinaire Frédéric Zaavy, published by the Milanese publishing house Officina Libraria, which traces the too brief work of the designer with many images.

Stardust: The Work and Life of Jeweller Extraordinaire Frédéric Zaavy

Anello in oro e argento con diamanti e sfene, chiamata anche titanite

A book for Victoire de Castellane’s 20 years in Dior

Published on September 3, 2020

news/alta gioielleria

There are people who mark the history of jewelry. One of these is Victoire de Castellane, creative director of Dior. Now a great book published by Rizzoli Usa (Dior Joaillerie: The A to Z of Victoire de Castellane, 349 pages, written together with Olivier Gabet, director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris), retraces the steps of this champion of high jewelery , for 20 years at the top of the Parisian Maison.

The book is not structured in chapters, but follows an alphabetical order, like a real dictionary, in 158 entries. And, of course, the volume is illustrated with large photographs from her famous collections, such as Cher Dior, Secret Garden Versailles, Rose des Vents, to name a few. But the dictionary entries also include distinctive features of Victoire de Castellane’s compositional style, such as asymmetry, or the use of lacquer, which Dior’s creative director considers as the fourth color of gold. To finish with an unexpected dictionary entry: zigzag. It is the path of creative freedom that has guided, and will guide, Victoire’s work.

La copertina del libro «Dior Joaillerie: The A to Z of Victoire de Castellane»

Anello Toi & Moi in oro giallo e rosa con smeraldi, diamanti, zaffiri, granato, peridoto, lacca, perla — Dior, anello Toi & Moi in oro giallo e rosa con smeraldi, diamanti, zaffiri, granato, peridoto, lacca, perla

Bracciale-orologio con opali e diamanti della collezione Dior et d'Opales — Bracciale-orologio con opali e diamanti della collezione Dior et d’Opales

The jewels of Hollywood stars revealed in a book

Published on December 9, 2019

news

What jewels have the historic Hollywood stars bought and donated? Journalist Beth Bernstein is one of the lucky few who works with what is her passion: jewelry. Beth Bernstein, an American, is also a consultant and expert on the world of gems and jewelry design. And in many years of career he has collected not only images and accumulated experience, but also a series of stories, between the anecdote and the biographical note that he decided to tell in a book, published some time ago.

The volume is titled: If These Jewels Could Talk: The Legends Behind Celebrity Gems. You read in English and are passionate about jewelry, and so it is an unmissable book that contains juicy anecdotes related to jewelry. The book is now on Amazon for € 49.30, is published by Antique Collectors Club and has 254 pages, with illustrations.

Elizabeth Taylor con collana e pendente di rubini e diamanti firmata Van Cleef & Arpels

Here is an anecdote: while Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were shooting a movie in Rome, the actress suspected that the partner had a flirtation with Sophia Loren. Furthermore, Liz had to undergo urgent appendicitis surgery. Burton then presented himself with a pendant in the shape of a heart, with pavé diamonds, by Van Cleef & Arpels, which soon became one of his favorite pieces, because he was given so much love by Richard.

In the movie High Society, Bing Crosby watches an engagement ring of his ex-wife (on screen) Grace Kelly. “It’s a beautiful stone, Sam,” he says to her fiancé, John Lund. “Do you have a solitaire mine, George?” The ring you see in the film has mounted a 10.47 carat emerald cut diamond by Cartier and it is the engagement ring given to Grace Kelly by Prince Rainier III (we talked about it here). But what most people don’t know about this ring is that it was the second engagement ring for the prince. The first was a ruby with diamonds, but the prince discovered that it would not be enough to win Grace’s heart. Federico Graglia

L'anello di fidanzamento di Grace Kelly con diamante da 10,47 carati — L’anello di fidanzamento di Grace Kelly con diamante da 10,47 carati

Cartier’s secrets told by an heir to the historic family of French jewelers

Published on December 1, 2019

news

I tre fratelli Cartier con il padre nel 1922. Da sinistra, Pierre, Louis, Alfred e Jacques Cartier. Credit: Archivi della famiglia Cartier

Do you want to make a gift? You can choose Cartier. And you don’t need to have a big budget, you need just $ 31.50 (and an account on Amazon). Of course, at that price you can’t buy a jewel, even if the book that tells the story of the Cartier family, so far little known, is in its own way. In short, a literary jewel for jewelry lovers. Moreover, writing the book, which is in English and is called The Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family, is a descendant of the dynasty of the great French jewelers, Francesca Cartier Brickell.

Now Cartier is part of the Swiss group Richemont, which reports to the South African entrepreneur Johann Peter Rupert. But the Cartier family has maintained the business for four generations. The birth of the book also has a romantic aspect: the author tells that she was not particularly interested in the history of the family until she found a packet of letters in her grandfather’s cellar. Then, family stories sparked curiosity.

he Cartiers: The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire

As always happens, before wealth there is poverty. The history of the Cartier family is no exception: the grandfather of Francesca Cartier Brickell’s grandfather, Louis-François Cartier, was part of the working class before founding the company that still bears his name. It was 1847. As a craftsman, the first Cartier became a shop owner capable of attracting customers and becoming a reference point for jewelery, through revolutions and wars. Merit also and above all of the ability of the Cartiers in interpreting the tastes of the Parisians, but also of the care for the invoice of the jewels and the ability in identifying false stones and earning a license of honesty: a not secondary aspect for a jewelry of the epoch , without the technical means of the current ones.

Braccialetto in corallo e diamanti, Cartier, 1933

In addition, the Cartier Maison has been able to introduce cutting-edge design for that time, and has sensed the power of public relations and marketing in advance. In advance of the times they had established what is now defined as customer relationship management. An example: besides the personalized cards of the various customers, Cartier had also introduced those for the recipients, with measures, tastes, idiosyncrasies. And of course, so much discretion. Over the years the Cartiers in Paris have become an institution and have woven friendship and relationships (even marriages) with other important families, primarily those of jewelery, such as the Fabergé and Van Cleef et Arpels.

Spilla Devant de Corsage di Cartier, 1912. Comprende un diamante a taglio pera da 34,08 carati, e un diamante ovale da 23,55 carati

Statistically, at the third generation the great majority of family businesses go into crisis. In the third generation, however, Cartier had opened boutiques in Paris, New York and London and supplied jewelry to the ruling families, for example to the British king Edward VII. And, years later, they chose Cartier some characters like Jackie Kennedy, Marilyn Monroe and Maria Callas, Wally Simpson, to name a few. The book, in addition to the history of the family, also tells the evolution of taste, from Art Nouveau to Art Deco. Until the sale of the brand, now in its fourth family generation, 115 years after its foundation.

Jam Sahib, Maharajah di Nawanagar, con la spilla per turbante di Cartier

Jeanne Toussaint, direttrice della gioielleria Cartier dal 1933

Le vetrine di Cartier, in Place Vendôme, a Parigi

Grace Kelly e il classico anello Cartier

Bracciale Tutti Frutti di Cartier. Stima: 600 - 780 mila euro — Bracciale Tutti Frutti di Cartier

Cartier spilla Caresse e1575124504584 — Cartier, spilla Caresse d’Orchidées, con una rubellite centrale, taglio cabochon

Farah Khan, luxury without borders

Published on March 5, 2019

COLLANE/Showroom/Rings

Collana di smeraldi dello Zambia con pendente a forma di fiore

A book celebrates the work of one of the greatest Indian jewelry designers: Farah Khan ♦ ︎

Paola De Luca has edited A Bejeweled Life, a book published by Rizzoli that celebrates Farah Khan, designer of the homonymous Maison based in Mumbai. Founded 15 years ago, Farah Khan Fine Jewelry has become one of the big names in the world of Indian jewelry, and not only. And this can be seen by browsing through the 300 pages of the book, which tells the story of the evolution of one of the best Indian high jewelry designers.

Farah Khan is the eldest of the four sons of actor-director-producer Sanjay Khan and wife, interior designer Zarine Khan. Farah completed a gemology course at the Gemological Institute of America in Santa Monica, California, in 1992 and in 2004 launched her own jewelery brand.

Farah Khan, orecchini con perle e diamanti

Like other Indian designers, his work ranges from the tradition of Indian jewelry, rich, opulent, with many colored stones, and a simpler job dedicated to the Western public. In both cases, however, the result is pleasant. His ability to adapt to two different tastes is symbolized by the earrings of emeralds created for the princess Diya Kumari, daughter of the last Maharaja of Jaipur, and the design from the crown studded with crystals Swarovski worn by Beyoncé on the cover of one of his albums. But his eclecticism goes even further: for example, he also designed incense brass burners as precious jewels. Alessia Mongrando

Anello in oro con smeraldi taglio cuscino e diamanti

Anello con rubini e libellula in oro e smeraldi

Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, ametiste

When Cartier collects Cartier

Published on January 20, 2019

news/alta gioielleria

Bracciale Tutti i Frutti di Cartier, 1938

The book of the year is The Cartier Collection: Jewelry. The history of the French Maison through 600 images ♦ ︎

It is probably the most important book on the jewels of 2019. The French publishing house Flammarion has edited a great work in two volumes, written by François Chaille, Thierry Coudert, Christophe Vachaudez, Violette Petit and Michael Spink. The title says it all: The Cartier Collection: Jewelry. If you love the great Maison of jewelry, it’s the book for you. But, beware, it costs like as a jewel: $ 425. On the other hand, it will give a classy tone to the coffee table in front of your sofa.

The book is centered on the Cartier collection, started by the Maison in 1973 and includes more than 1600 ranging from 1860 to today and is the largest collection in the world of this genre.

The two volumes retrace the history and testify to the originality and artistic genius that made Cartier famous. Leafing through the pages are extraordinary pieces, such as those possessed by Queen Elizabeth, purchased by the Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, Barbara Hutton and Sir Bhupinder Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala, and so on. All this through original designs and images of legendary gemstones. In all, there are more than 600 images from the vast archives of Cartier, some unpublished. If you love jewelry break the piggy bank. Margherita Donato

Cartier, Art Déco. Bracciale Tutti Frutti con diamanti, smeraldi, rubini, zaffiri

Pendulette mystérieuse, orologio ipnotico ad asse centrale. I dischi delle ore e dei minuti sono azionati da un solo asse, in modo tale da lasciare maggior spazio alla ricerca estetica. Quadrante intagliato a partire da un citrino

Collana di Cartier in platino, oro, diamanti e 375 rubini burmesi di Cartier, 1951. Appartenuta a Liz Taylor. Foto: Vincent Wulveryck

Elizabeth Taylor con la collana di Cartier in platino, oro, diamanti e rubini. Foto: Photofest — Elizabeth Taylor nel 1958 con la collana di Cartier in platino, oro, diamanti e rubini. Foto: Photofest

La Regina Elizabeth II con la collana Nizam di Cartier. Indossata per il suo matrimonio nel 1947

The jewels of the tsars

Published on July 18, 2018

The jewels of the tsars: the reconstruction in a book of legends, history and myths of one of the largest collections ♦

Romanov’s jewels: a series of necklaces, diamonds, crowns that have not, perhaps, somithngs of equal. Relive in a book. Until its fall, in 1917, the Romanov dynasty possessed a collection of breathtaking jewels, collected over the centuries: necklaces, pendants, bracelets, brooches, tiaras, crowns. Even the wealthy American heiress Consuelo Vanderbilt, accustomed to the most unbridled luxury, was impressed when the aunt of the Tsar, Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, showed her some pieces of her collection: “There are infinite parures of diamonds, emeralds, rubies and pearls , not to mention semi-precious stones, such as turquoises, tourmalines, and aquamarines,” she said.

Anello di perle appartenuto alla zarina Alessandra

In the United States, a new edition of a book was published that tells the story of these royal jewels. The book is titled The Jewels of the Romanovs, and was written by the Italian Stefano Papi (Thames & Hudson, 352 pages, $ 65 on Amazon). Stefano Papi is one of the greatest experts in the world of jewelry: he was Senior European Specialist for the jewelery department of both Sotheby’s and Christie’s. For fans, the book is as a mine of informations. The photos show, for example, the Empress Maria Feodorovna in a white satin dress with a red band, crown and four pearl chokers, a diamond necklace with more pearls than pendonocome giant tears; a diamond brooch and, on the wrist, a bracelet with three rounds of pearls. Despite his short stature, he has the pose and the aura of an empress.

But in a photograph within the book is also indicated by his intimate nickname: Minny. The Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, on the other hand, was one of the last Romanovs to leave Russia in 1920 to die a few months later in Switzerland. The friends had managed to save his collection by handing it, piece by piece, to an English visitor who in turn had deposited the jewels at the Swedish embassy. Like so many royal refugees, the Grand Duchess has kept what he could, but much has been sold. Some of his jewels, wrapped in a pillowcase, were discovered decades later and sold for huge sums only recently, in 2009.

Among the treasures on display in the book of Popes there are commemorative objects or gifts for special occasions. Maria Feodorovna, for example, had given her sister a small portrait of herself, surrounded by pearls, in a heart-shaped frame of Fabergé red enamel. Tsar Nicholas II, on the other hand, for his coronation in 1896, had given his grandfather Vladimir his uncle, and to his grand-duke’s wife, a small box of orio and green enamel. Double portraits adorn a striped green and gold cigarette case created by Fabergé for the wedding of the great single daughter of the ducal couple, Elena, to Prince Nicholas of Greece and Denmark.

Many of the jewels, however, have been dispersed with the Russian revolution. The Bolshevik government in those dramatic years made money by selling what it could, including the wedding crown worn by generations of tsars. Furthermore, some Romanovs sold their jewels during their flight. For this reason some magnificent pieces were then worn by members of the royal dynasties of Romania and Yugoslavia, while a tiara is still used today by Queen Elizabeth II. The grandmother, Queen Mary, known for her avarice, managed to get hold of the best pieces of Romanov’s jewelry after the death of her mother, the empress widow.

I gioielli dei Romanov acquistati a prezzo di saldo dalla regina d'Inghilterra — I gioielli dei Romanov acquistati a prezzo di saldo dalla regina d’Inghilterra

La sfera che simboleggia il potere conferito da Dio

Un grosso smeraldo circondato da diamanti a fiore

Spilla con grossi rubini e diamanti fancy

Collana di perle appartenuta all'imperatrice Maria Feodorovna — Collana di perle appartenuta all’imperatrice Maria Feodorovna

Cornice a forma di cuore firmata Fabergé

L'aquila imperiale a due teste tempestata di diamanti, con sovrapposta una croce di Sant'Andrea — L’aquila imperiale a due teste tempestata di diamanti, con sovrapposta una croce di Sant’Andrea

Spilla a stella dell'imperatore di Russia — Spilla a stella dell’imperatore di Russia

Spilla a forma di rosa, argento e pavé di brillanti

Pendente con diamanti e un grosso smeraldo

Copricapo con visone e croce, oro e pietre

The treasures of Buccellati

Published on March 29, 2018

news

Gianmaria Buccellati, collana ispirata a un pizzo veneziano, con trama in oro giallo e sagome in oro bianco incassate con brillanti, 1992

The treasures of the Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation can now be seen every day. On a book ♦ ︎
Jewelery, culture and sculpture sometimes come together. If, then, we add the goldsmith skill of Gianmaria Buccellati, here comes a myth. So much so that at the Maison of Milan with Tuscan roots in 2014 a great exhibition was dedicated, organized by the Buccellati Foundation, which Gianmaria had promoted ten years ago. Now, three years after the death of the great jeweler, a book, The Treasures of the Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation, traces its path and the testimonies of its creativity. The goldsmith and silverware works of the Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation have two godfathers, given that everything comes from Mario Buccellati, heir to that skill in sculpting in small gold and silver that has made a Renaissance sculptor famous as Benvenuto Cellini.
The last century, in short, was born in Florence not only a company, but a piece of history of the arts, of Made in Italy, as well as luxury. This is why the history and successes of Gianmaria Buccellati are destined to last over time, as witnessed by the book published by Skira.
The Treasures of the Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation
Skira
2017, Italian and English edition
30 x 32 cm, 252 pages
424 colors, hardcover
ISBN 978-88-572-3435-9 I, -3436-6 E
€ 85.00

Tiara sforata a tulle in argento platinato e foderato di oro giallo, incassato con diamanti taglio brillante e taglio rosa — Mario Buccellati, tiara sforata a tulle in argento platinato e foderato di oro giallo, incassato con diamanti taglio brillante e taglio rosa, 1929

Mario Buccellati, anello musone in oro e argento foderato in oro giallo, con zaffiro sfaccettato, diamanti fancy e taglio rosa, 1936

Gianmaria Buccellati, Collana e orecchini Deliziosa, con elementi in oro giallo incisi a ornato, castoni a goccia con rubini cabochon, smeraldi e brillanti, 1995

Gianmaria Buccellati, Spilla e orecchini a fogliette in oro giallo incassato e brillanti. Pendente centrale spilla con perla a goccia conch, 1992

Gianmaria Buccellati, anello a turbante in oro con colori diversi, rubino cabochon e brillanti, 1972

Il libro «Tesori della Fondazione Gianmaria Buccellati»

Jewels, but made in paper

Published on March 22, 2018

The jewels of paper (recycled): are the last frontier of sustainability ♦ ︎
It is very easy that none of the passionate readers of gioiellis.com will never buy a jewel made with paper. Which, then, is not a jewel but, if anything, an accessory, a decoration, a game. But if, by hypothesis, you like to use scissors and imagination to create something new, here is the book, indeed, an editorial project that’s right for you. It is called Carta Preziosa, the design of the paper jewel, and is curated by Bianca Cappello in collaboration with Comieco – National Consortium for the Recovery and Recycling of Cellulose-based Packaging, and by Skira Editore, Cartiera Paudice and Cartotecnica Print Finishing.
The book contains 21 «jewels», including necklaces, bracelets, rings and tiaras, made of colored cardboard, with 100% recycled material and colored with vegetable tints. These paper bijoux are to be built, worn and given away. The authors are 21 designers and contemporary artists who for years have made paper their main work tool. The presentation of the book-casket is scheduled for Monday, March 26, 2018 at 11.00, Sala Napoleonica of the Academy of Brera, in Milan.

The treasures of Bulgari

Published on February 28, 2018

alta gioielleria/news

A book with the stories, but above all with the jewels that accompanied the myth of Bulgari ♦ ︎
Here comes a book that tells everything and, above all, shows the art, the glory and the honors of Bulgari. The Roman Maison passed under the French of Lvmh is described by Vincent Meylan, a luxury specialist, who has already worked on Christie’s and Van Cleef & Arpels. The book is titled Bulgari, Treasures of Rome and, of course, tells the growth of the jewelry brand that became a myth in a few decades. A reputation won not only with the necessary skill in the goldsmith’s art, but also with the idea of wrapping their jewelery production with styles and forms borrowed from antiquity, that of the Roman Empire, but also that of the Byzantines and of Islamic art. The Trombino ring and the Serpenti bracelets have thus made the rounds of the world.
To compose the book the author has had access to the archives of the Maison and this explains the accuracy of the reconstruction and the photographic gallery that illustrates the pages of the book. In which there is no shortage, as could be expected, the classic images of customers who have become ambassadors of the jewelery brand, like Liz Taylor, the countess Dorothy Dentice di Frasso who attended Bulgari while she was in love with Gary Cooper, or the Infanta Beatrice of Spain and Princess Maria Jose of Belgium.
But it is reductive to describe Bulgari as a jewelery for celebrity. On the other hand, it is one of the world’s great jewelers capable of offering a different, recognizable style and, let’s say it, often also copied. Federico Graglia
Bulgari, Treasures of Rome
ACC Art Books
Price: 95 dollars

Il celebre bracciale serpente, in versione orologio

Anello Trombino con rubino burmese di 5,98 carati non riscaldato

Una pagina del libro «Bulgari, Treasures of Rome», dall'archivio della Maison — Una pagina del libro «Bulgari, Treasures of Rome», dall’archivio della Maison

Jewelry on paper for de Grisogono

Published on October 28, 2017

news

Skull, una delle creazioni più controcorrente di de Grisogono

The story (seen through 160 illustrations) of the Maison de Grisogono and its founder, Fawaz Gruosi ♦ ︎
“No great man lives in vain: the history of the world is just the biography of great men,” said Thomas Carlyle, a Scottish historian, essayist and philosopher who lived in the Victorian period. This principle also applies to the jewelery world. And so, here is Daring Creativity, a book written by specialist Vivienne Becker and devoted to the creator of de Grisogono, Fawaz Gruosi. A widely illustrated story that will fascinate the fans of the Maison of Geneva, attracted by the sometimes scratching fantasy of its founder.
“When it comes to exceptional stones, the secret is to identify the one that will transmit emotions, the one made for you, as if it were an extension of your being. When I create, I already know which woman will wear the jewel and how the stone will become her talisman, “Gruosi tells Vivienne Becker. Gruosi, one of the few visionary spirits in a world often too loyal to tradition, created his brand in 1993 with the first boutique in Rue du Rhône in Geneva. He immediately found his space and, above all, a soul: he has lost the characteristic minimalism of the last decade of the twentieth century and has opted for opulent, sensual, complex creations.
Grisogono’s first creation, a pair of pearls and diamond earrings tailored to begum Salima Aga Khan was already a perfect image of the taste, reachness and originality that would become the jeweler’s trademark. Characters such as Sofia Loren, Duchess Camila of Cornwall, Sharon Stone have worn the glittering models of the Maison. Since then, Gruosi continues to explore the white and black diamonds as well as unique-colored stones, inventing both classical and innovative shapes.
The volume images show the wide range of ideas, technical solutions, innovations of the Maison. With an Italian background, Gruosi manages to blend Florentine and Byzantine influences, combinations of precious stones and craftsmanship.
Daring Creativity
Assouline
Text by Vivienne Becker
28 x 35 cm, 256 pages, 160 illustrations
Isbn: 9781614285847
Price: 195 euros

Bracciale in onice e diamanti. Foto di Laziz Hamani

Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e neri. Foto di Laziz Hamani

Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi. Foto di Laziz Hamani

Collier con diamanti bianchi e rubini. Foto di Laziz Hamani

Alta gioielleria de Grisogono, anello. Foto di Laziz Hamani

Alta gioielleria de Grisogono, anello in oro rosa, diamanti, rubino. Foto di Laziz Hamani

Alta gioielleria de Grisogono, anello con diamanti e zaffiro. Foto di Laziz Hamani

Mikimoto to leaf through

Published on March 23, 2017

news

The Mikimoto pearl necklaces depicted in a large illustrated book: for those who like the jewels of the ancient Japanese Maison.
You say Mikimoto and you say pearls. Yeah, and what kind of pearls. You can’t only say that the round translucent spheres are top quality, but you must add that the Japanese Maison interpreted the beads as elements of a theatrical performance. And, rightly, comes the book that collects the history and images of the brand.

The book is published by Assouline and the tile is The Pearl Necklace (Vanessa Friedman introduction, 300 pages, 200 pictures, $ 85), and is cared for by the specialist Vivienne Becker . It is the story of Mikimoto, but also of pearls: a story that intersects and overlaps. Pearls adorning the turbans of the Maharajas, which are worn by queens and princesses as Diana, by Hollywood stars as Marilyn Monroe and singers as Lady Gaga. a symbol, a tradition, a passion that Mikimoto was able to interpret even with jewels that have entered the history of gold creativity. The pearl necklace with a close sight, follows the 124 years of history Mikimoto, but also leads by the hand those who browse the volume through the pure beauty of this element of the jewelry that has something mystical. Federico Graglia

Bracciale vintage di Mikimoto, con perle Akoya

La clip Yaguruma può essere diviso in diversii componenti, che possono poi essere trasformata in 12 diversi gioielli

A Lydia Courteille’s book

Published on December 9, 2016

news

The story of Lydia Courteille through her jewelry in 239 pages of a book dedicated to the French designer.
Lydia Courteille fans now have a new opportunity to admire the jewels of the French designer. ACC Art Books, in fact, has published a new monograph devoted to the fanciful Parisian creator. The book is titled Lydia Courteille, Extraordinary Jewellery of Imagination and Dreams (239 pages, 59 € from Amazon). The book was written by Julia Weir de la Rochefoucauld, an expert on jewelry and capable of covering the entire history of Lydia Courteille, starting from childhood, love for novels, the passion for the stones that she saw the mineralogical museum Paris. And a good social skills: when she was child was in correspondence with 18 pen pals all over the world.
But the date that interests jewelry lovers is 1979, when the designer began his activities. Preceded by the work of antique jewelry, cameos repair or the transformation of broochs in rings. At that point he decided to get serious: he studied gemology and has joined at the collection of vintage jewelry those drawn by herself. It has been successful. The book contains the images of 20 collections linked by a single thread: the imagination. Federico Graglia

Anello Ark Angel con smeraldi e peridoto — Anello Ark Angel con tormaline verdi e peridoto

Diadema in oro rodiato e pietre della collezione Saba

Orecchini in oro rodiato, zaffiri, tsavorite e opali fuoco

Anello in oro rodiato, tra tsavorite, opali e tormalina verde

Il libero «Lydia Courteille, Extraordinary Jewellery of Imagination and Dreams»

Orecchini con conigli realizzati con rubellite, zaffiri rosa, diamanti bianchi e neri, oro rosa

Anello in oro rodiato, diamanti gialli, zaffiri, tsavoriti e onice

Taffin, 20 years in 300 shots

Published on October 27, 2016

news

Orecchini con topazio, zaffiri del Montana, ceramica azzurra, oro (dal libro Taffin)

A book about the brilliant designer James Taffin de Givenchy: 300 jewelry images out of the ordinary.
It is unlikely that a book can be the mirror of a person. Even the biographies, inevitably, fail to capture exactly what the appearance and character of the subject they are talking about. A picture book, however, has some advantages: it leaves to the eye of those who browse the judgment and reduces the descriptions written to a minimum. This is the case of Taffin, book written by James Taffin de Givenchy with the journalist Stephanie LaCava (Rizzoli USA, $ 115 or € 118 on Amazon, 413 pages, 4.1 kilograms). The book collects 20 years of career of the designer which is grandson of Hubert de Givenchy, founder of the fashion house and cosmetics. Instead of dealing with perfumes or clothing, Taffin, after studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, is went to Christie’s, in the jewelry department. After the auctions, he went to work from Verdura, a brand that has also inherited the drawings by Suzanne Belperron. But another of his myths is Jar. In 1996 he founded his own Maison in New York, with the idea of producing jewels worthy of his creative patterns. The book contains over 300 images of the greatest works of Taffin, with drawings, pictures and atelier of the designer. A designer who has successfully combined the finest materials with surprising choices, such as metal of a military rifle, wood and ceramics. And that is now immortalized in the pages of a book. Federico Graglia

Orecchini pendenti con diamanti e zaffiri rosa

James-De-Givenchy — James Taffin de Givenchy

Orecchini pendenti con diamanti, granati e oro rosa

Orecchini in cristallo di rocca, calcedonio, diamanti, spinelli, su platino e oro rosa

Anello con zaffiri viola, ceramica blu, oro rosa

The history of bijoux

Published on April 28, 2016

news

Do you like copyright bijoux? Are you hunting for jewelry that have made history? Would you like to collect earrings, rings and necklaces of the big names? Before you take your wallet, you can consult Storia della Bigiotteria Italiana, a book that collects the best of jewelery Made in Italy. A long history, has been presented in Milan by the author, Bianca Cappello, historian and critic of the jewel and published by Skira. The quality jewelery, design and interpretation, capable of dealing with the jewelry, has a history of the Unification of Italy and runs until today, by mixing together crafts and social history, fashion, traditions, customs and trends, not from last, culture. “As always, when dealing with such a complex subject is inevitable also take the history of artistic trends, in this case those of the twentieth century,” says Cappello. M.B.
History of Italian jewelery
Skira
2016 bilingual edition (Italian-English)
24 x 28 cm, 160 pages
152 color and 32 b / w, hardcover
Price: 40 €

Graff, the master of gems

Published on October 22, 2015

news

Laurence Graff con The Graff Constellation, 109,72 carati

The fantastic story of Laurence Graff is moving now in a big book. The published the same Graff. The book tells the story of the founder of one of the great Maison specializing in diamonds. Laurence Graff is a completely self-taught gemologist who started as apprentice in Hatton Garden, the street of jewelers and diamond dealers in London. At the age of 22, in 1960, Graff opened his company. Apparently he had a kind of sixth sense to recognize the gems, as well as a strict professional training. In addition to this, he had nerves of steel: a quality that has served to buy most importantly stones, worth millions of pounds.
In the book there are the images of the history, sometimes adventurous, of the London jeweler. Adventures, of course, have to do with diamonds. As with the great stone from 603 carat Lesotho Promise, which Graff cut to transform it into a nacklace with 26 perfect stones. Or the purchase of Delaire Sunrise, the largest Fancy Vivid Yellow stone in the world, to 118.08 carats. Or, again, the largest diamond color D Flawless, brilliant cut, the Graff Constellation, from 102.79 carats.
There are also pictures of the amazing initiatives, such as Hair & Jewel, with a model wearing a half billion dollars in precious gems in their hair (https://gioiellis.com/unidea-brillante-in-testa), an idea revived in 2013 to commemorate the 60 years of activity. If you are interested, the book costs 65 pounds. The proceeds will go to charity. Federico Graglia

Carissa necklace, uno dei gioielli più belli firmati Graff

Il libro dedicato alla storia di Laurence Graff

Laurence Graff con il Lesotho Primise, il 15esimo più grande gioiello del mondo

The 50 years of Dinh Van

Published on July 30, 2015

Showroom

It’s 50 years old, and now celebrates them with a special jewel and a book: the Parisian Dinh Van manages to renew his unique style, which has consecrated it among the great design. Established in 1965, by jeweler-craftsman Jean Dinh Van, of Vietnamese origin, the French company has been able to stand out from other brands in the industry for the style that stays away from forms like flowers, animals or crosses. In short, no symbols, but a clean geometric line, far from the traditional codes of jewelery. Instead, Dinh Van has managed to reinterpret everyday objects, transforming them into jewelry, such as razor blades or handcuffs. The first jewel successful of Van Dinh was the ring 2 Perle, created in 1967 to Pierre Cardin. A revolution for its time, with a silhouette square, in which they are located two different colored balls in the center. An extraordinary piece, which entered in the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris in 2003.
To celebrate its half century of existence, the brand has decided to reinterpret this ring in a complete collection in yellow gold, adorned with two pearls (Tahiti or Akoya pearls, but also freshwater, white and hematite). The collection comes in rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings. Scheduled (in November) is also a new edition of the bracelet Maillet de polo, dated 1980. The model will be offered in only 50 pieces.
Finally, it is publishing a book about the greatest creations of the house. Written by Berenice Geoffroy-Schneiter for Assouline Publishing, it makes right to honor to Franco-Vietnamese designer. Lavinia Andorno