Harwell Godfrey

High jewelry by 25 black designers at Sotheby’s




Darker-skinned jewelers and designers than others. Sotheby’s offers them a new appointment: Brilliant & Black: The Age of Enlightenment. The sale organized in London (22 September 2 October) follows the one organized in New York last year. The curator of the exhibition is the same, Melanie Grant: she has selected jewels by black designers from the 1950s to today. In all 70 pieces from 25 different creators. Already present in New York were Melanie Eddy, Lola Fenhirst, Harwell Godfrey, Sheryl Jones, Vania Leles, Angie Marei, Satta Matturi, Johnny Nelson, Jariet Oloye-Oduto, Jacqueline Rabun, Catherine Sarr, Maggi Simpkins, Karen Smith, Ten thousand things, Lorraine West, Thelma West and Castro, who died suddenly last July.

Vanleles, anello con rubellite taglio pera, con rubini e diamanti
Vanleles, anello con rubellite taglio pera, con rubini e diamanti

They are joined by Disa Allsopp, Latoya Boyd, Shola Branson, Ndidi Eubia, Gina Love, Pascale Marthine Tayou, Roxanne Rajcommar-Hadden and Sewit Sium. The exhibition coincides with Black History Month in the UK. Everyone created at least one new piece of jewelery for the exhibition. The jewels are top of the range. And even though designers like Satta Matturi use motifs and icons of African origin, most of the jewels on offer are completely indistinguishable from those of other non-black designers. They are simply beautiful.

Angie Marei, anello con perla di Tahiti e tsavoriti
Angie Marei, anello con perla di Tahiti e tsavoriti
Maggi Simpkins, anello Peacock con diamante taglio  smeraldo, circondato da zaffiri, smeraldi e diamanti verdazzurri
Maggi Simpkins, anello Peacock con diamante taglio smeraldo, circondato da zaffiri, smeraldi e diamanti verdazzurri
Mateo, orecchini con perle e diamanti
Mateo, orecchini in oro con perle coltivate e diamanti
Matturi, orecchini con sei diamanti taglio triangolare e 150 taglio brillante, onice
Matturi, orecchini con sei diamanti taglio triangolare e 150 taglio brillante, onice
Sheryl Jones, collana con 34 peridoti taglio Asscher, zaffiri rosa, rubini, tormaline, kunzite e diamanti
Sheryl Jones, collana con 34 peridoti taglio Asscher, zaffiri rosa, rubini, tormaline, kunzite e diamanti

Shola Branson, anello con zaffiri
Shola Branson, anello con zaffiri







Black jewels for Sotheby’s




After music and figurative art, even in jewelry we are witnessing an enhancement of African-American creativity, on the wave of the Black Lives Matter movement. Sotheby’s New York, together with the jewelry editor and author Melanie Grant, organized the first exhibition-sale dedicated to black contemporary jewelry designers ((Brilliant & Black: A Jewelry Renaissance). The exhibition-sale will begin on September 17 and includes 60 pieces by 21 US and European designers from the 1950s to today. In case you are wondering, no, there is no common thread, no aesthetics, no common denominator between the various jewelry designers.

Orecchini by Matturi in oro giallo 18 carati con diamanti taglio brillante, smeraldi e perle South Sea
Orecchini by Matturi in oro giallo 18 carati con diamanti taglio brillante, smeraldi e perle South Sea

And this, of course, is positive because it signals that everyone’s creative path is not necessarily linked to a pre-established scheme. There are jewels of all kinds, including those of high jewelery, the Enchanted Garden earrings by Vanleles, inspired by African batik and made of titanium and rose gold, set with African rubies, the personalized 2.5 carat pink diamond ring by Maggi Simpkins of floral inspiration, valued at 1 million dollars.

Vanleles, orecchini in titanio, oro rosa, diamanti e rubini
Vanleles, orecchini in titanio, oro rosa, diamanti e rubini

The list of jewelers-designers represented in the exhibition-sale includes Harwell Godfrey, Jacqueline Rabun, Johnny Nelson, Lorraine West, Rashid Johnson, Thelma West, Vanleles, Castro NYC, Almasika, Marei, Mateo New York, Matturi, Melanie Eddy, Sheryl Jones, Thousand Things, Lola Fenhirst, Jariet Oloyé, Maggi Simpkins and Shola Branson.

Vanleles, orecchini in titanio, oro rosa, diamanti e rubini
Vanleles, orecchini in titanio, oro rosa, diamanti e rubini

Die Liste der im Ausstellungsverkauf vertretenen Juweliere-Designer umfasst Harwell Godfrey, Jacqueline Rabun, Johnny Nelson, Lorraine West, Rashid Johnson, Thelma West, Vanleles, Castro NYC, Almasika, Marei, Mateo New York, Matturi, Melanie Eddy, Sheryl Jones, Thousand Things, Lola Fenhirst, Jariet Oloyé, Maggi Simpkins und Shola Branson.

Anello Rebel Black di Thelma West in ceramica nera e oro,-con diamante taglio pera da 5 carati
Anello Rebel Black di Thelma West in ceramica nera e oro,-con diamante taglio pera da 5 carati
Bracciale rigido Almasika Universum in oro 18 carati e tsavorite
Bracciale rigido Almasika Universum in oro 18 carati e tsavorite
Ciondolo bambola di Castro NYC in bisquit e pietre preziose con maschera articolata, incastonato con smeraldi, rubini, perle
Ciondolo bambola di Castro NYC in bisquit e pietre preziose con maschera articolata, incastonato con smeraldi, rubini, perle
Harwell Godfrey, pendente Cleopatra con smeraldi Muzo, onice e diamanti
Harwell Godfrey, pendente Cleopatra con smeraldi Muzo, onice e diamanti







Muzo emeralds for ten women designers




Every year Muzo, which manages the most famous Colombian emerald mine in the world, involves some designers in the design of jewelry with the most desired green gem in the world. Muzo’s goal is to raise awareness and emphasize the quality of emeralds not only for rings, earrings or necklaces with the classic shape, but also for new jewelry, made by designers who love to innovate. This year, however, Muzo changed the rules and reserved the collaboration for a group of entirely female designers. These are Colette, Harwell Godfrey, Jenna Blake, Katherine Jetter, Loren Nicole, Michelle Fantaci, Nina Runsdorf, Robinson Pelham, Silvia Furmanovich and Little Sister.

Anello con smeraldo di Harwell Godfrey per Muzo
Anello con smeraldo di Harwell Godfrey per Muzo

The designers who adhered to Muzo’s idea have therefore created a series of high quality jewelry, often surprising and innovative, including cabochon emeralds, emerald pearls and, of course, gems in the classic rectangular cut. The jewels were then presented on Moda Operandi.
Anello Snake di Jenna Blake per Muzo
Anello Snake di Jenna Blake per Muzo

Anello con pendente di Nina Runsdorf, con smeraldo e diamanti
Anello con pendente di Nina Runsdorf, con smeraldo e diamanti
Orecchini di Katherine Jetter con smeraldi e smalto nero
Orecchini di Katherine Jetter con smeraldi e smalto nero
Anello in oro e smeraldo di Loren Nicole
Anello in oro e smeraldo di Loren Nicole
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti e smeraldi di Michelle Fantaci
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti e smeraldi di Michelle Fantaci
Orecchini di Colette in oro bianco, smeraldi, onice e malachite
Orecchini di Colette in oro bianco, smeraldi, onice e malachite
Orecchini di Robinson Pelham con smeraldi e zaffiri di diversi colori
Orecchini di Robinson Pelham con smeraldi e zaffiri di diversi colori
Orecchini di Silvia Furmanovich con smeraldi su oro e miniature
Orecchini di Silvia Furmanovich con smeraldi su oro e miniature

Orecchini di Sorellina con smeraldi e pietra onice bianco intagliata
Orecchini di Sorellina con smeraldi e pietra onice bianco intagliata