enamel

The new jewels by Alice Cicolini

Alice Cicolini’s new jewels: the Indian tradition of enamel ♦ ︎

Among the descriptions of herself that Alice Cicolini provides, there is this: former director of Arts & Culture for the British Council in India, she remains closely linked to Indian craftsmanship and design. This is the starting point of one of the most refined designers in London. For example, she uses a technique called champlevé, a glazing tradition that artisans in India prefer to work on 23.5 carat gold, given the softness of the metal it allows a more detailed and expressive work.

Anello Jodhpur in oro 22 carati, smeraldo e smalto
Anello Jodhpur in oro 22 carati, smeraldo e smalto

The enamel, explains Alice, is a combination of earth, pigmented glass and metal, heated to fire and used in the grooves created by the engraving on the metal and then polished with agate stone to create extraordinarily vivid colors. Much jewellery is made in Jaipur, Rajasthan, but for some time much of our work is now made in London by master craftsmen from the city. Following the Indian tradition, Alice Cicolini also uses this technique, with surprising results, alongside the classic precious stones such as diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Like the new pieces that the designer has created, but which always follow her personal style, a bridge between the great India and the West.

Orecchini Memphis kimono candy hoops in oro 14K, lacca, tormalina rosa, ametista, rubino sintetico, granato, zaffiro viola
Memphis kimono candy hoops earrings in 14K gold, lacquer, pink tourmaline, amethyst, synthetic ruby, garnet, purple sapphire
Anello in oro 14 carati, smalto, zaffiro orange
Ring in 14k gold, enamel, orange sapphire
Orecchini Memphis in oro 14 carati, opale di fuoco, lacca
Memphis earrings in 14k gold, fire opal, lacquer
Anello in oro 22 carati, argento, ametista lavanda, lacca
Ring in 22 carat gold, silver, lavender amethyst, lacquer
Anello in oro giallo 22 carati, argento, lacca, crisoprasio, diamanti
Ring in 22k yellow gold, silver, lacquer, chrysoprase, diamonds
Anello in oro giallo 22 carati, smalto vetroso, zaffiri rosa, diamante
Ring in 22k yellow gold, vitreous enamel, pink sapphires, diamond
Orecchini in oro fiallo 9 carati, rubini, zaffiri rosa, tormalina watermelon intagliata a mano, spinello briolette, tornalina rosa
Earrings in 9 carat yellow gold, rubies, pink sapphires, hand-carved watermelon tourmaline, briolette spinel, pink tornaline

The two souls of State Property

Lin Ruiyin and Afzal Imram: they are the two who founded a jewelry brand with a rather unusual name: State Property. More than publicly owned, however, the jewels created by the Singapore-based couple quickly become the property of design jewelery lovers. The secret of success lies, perhaps, in the combination of the different experiences of the founders, between jewelery and industrial design. Lin Ruiyin trained at Central St Martins in London. Afzal Imram, on the other hand, studied Industrial Design at the National University of Singapore, with personal works that have been exhibited in Milan and Paris, as well as in the Asian city.

Aebi Signet Ring Blood-Moon, in oro, madreperla e rubino
Aebi Signet Ring Blood-Moon, in gold, mother of pearl and ruby

By their very definition, the brand navigates between art, design, and traditional craftsmanship. Precious stones, enamel, refined lines, a certain allusion to the art deco style and innovative shapes are the aspects that most distinguish State Property. The jewels of the Asian brand are tuned to the tastes of the Western public: they are sold not only in Singapore, but also in the United States and the United Kingdom. And the Maison boasts the appreciation of women like Michelle Obama, Nicole Kidman and Lady Gaga.

Orecchini Alara con madreperla intagliata e smeraldi
Alara earrings with carved mother-of-pearl and emeralds
Anello in oro, smalto, diamanti, smeraldo
Ring in gold, enamel, diamonds, emerald
Anello Borsh Accordion in oro, smalto bianco, diamanti
Borsh Accordion ring in gold, white enamel, diamonds
Orecchini in oro, smalto nero, diamanti
Earrings in gold, black enamel, diamonds
Lin Ruiyin, Afzal Imram
Lin Ruiyin, Afzal Imram
Orecchini in oro, smalto nero, smeraldo
Earrings in gold, black enamel, emerald
Orecchini in oro, perle South Sea
Gold earrings, South Sea pearls

The psychedelic hexagons of ReRe Corcoran

//




The name ReRe is not very common, not even in America, where ReRe Corcoran lives and works. The designer founded ReRe Jewelry, based in New York, although she is originally from Boston, where she studied. Her jewels are very fashionable in the New York that matters. But in addition to being fashionable, the designer is also an innovator: she has developed a revolutionary enamel manufacturing process. With the colors of this material ReRe creates jewels that sometimes allude also to the psychedelic season of the sixties, with a hypnotic mixture of shades. In addition to enamel, ReRe jewels are made of 18 carat gold.

Anello in oro con esagoni e onice
Anello in oro con esagoni e onice

One aspect that is probably related to the previous activity of ReRe Corcoran, who after studying painting at Boston College, worked in the fashion industry in New York. Another aspect that characterizes the Maison’s jewels is the almost obsessive repetition of the hexagonal shape. According to the designer, the hexagons at the base of the beehives are evidence of a highly efficient geometric shape. There is no lack of charity in the ReRe Jewelry business: the proceeds from a collection, Angel, go in part to the Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in New York.

Pendente Hex in oro 18 carati
Pendente Hex in oro 18 carati
Orecchini in argento
Orecchini in argento
Anello Hex in oro 18 carati e pavé di diamanti
Anello Hex in oro 18 carati e pavé di diamanti
Orecchini in oro e smalto
Orecchini in oro e smalto
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, opale australiano, zaffiri blu, apatite, turchese
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, opale australiano, zaffiri blu, apatite, turchese
Orecchini in oro 18 carati
Orecchini in oro 18 carati

Anello Hex in oro 18 carati e gemma
Anello Hex in oro 18 carati e gemma







The colorful, complex, passionated jewels of Liza Borzaya

/




As a child Liza Borzaya had the nickname of puppet, which in Russian is called Pinocchio. Many years later, she had the temptation to call his Maison of jewelry. Like the character of the fairy tale written by Carlo Collodi. Then, however, Liza Borzaya simply gave her name to the Moscow-based fine jewelry brand and New York office. She defines her style as “bold, but beautiful, bright, but elegant, status, but not trivial. And that’s right.

Orecchini Gothic della collezione Classik in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri
Orecchini Gothic della collezione Classik in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri

It could be added that her jewels are crossed by that passion that is common in the Russian people, by a romanticism that is fascinated by nature and by the trust that many passionate customers place in the designer. Her business card, she says, was a bracelet with swallows that she created for herself in 2011, after working five years in a large European Maison. In 2015 he founded her brand. Liza Borzaya works on commission: she asks how much she wants to spend the client and gets to work. If the sketch on paper is approved (and it practically always happens), she realizes the jewel. Even the goldsmith’s work is carried out by her team of artisans, who also take care of the delicate interventions with colored enamel.

Anello con diamanti, madreperla e oro bianco
Anello con diamanti, madreperla e oro bianco
Ciondolo-orecchino a orma di ape in oro, diamanti, smalto
Ciondolo-orecchino a orma di ape in oro, diamanti, smalto
Collana Sixxy in oro bianco e giallo, diamanti, smalto
Collana Sixxy in oro bianco e giallo, diamanti, smalto
Orecchini Baubles e Tinsel con diamanti e oro bianco
Orecchini Baubles e Tinsel con diamanti e oro bianco
Orecchini Birds of Paradise e Tinsel con diamanti e oro bianco
Orecchini Birds of Paradise e Tinsel con diamanti e oro bianco

Bracciale e anelli con scoiattoli in oro, smalto, gemme
Bracciale e anelli con scoiattoli in oro, smalto, gemme







Dress Up with Emily P. Wheeler





Precious jewels, but also suitable for informal clothing, with colored gems, enamel, gold and geometries designed to amaze, but not too much, with a taste. From Los Angeles the designer Emily P. Wheeler launches the new Dress Up collection that, she says, is deliberately also a bit kitchy, with great use of pink, the favorite of girls. In short, also dressing with jewels, but in a cheerful, young, ironic way. And, not surprisingly, it’s a liveliness that arose in Emily’s mind as a natural reaction in the lockdown period.

Orecchini con oro rosa e bianco 18 carati, diamanti,  spinello, opale rosa
Orecchini con oro rosa e bianco 18 carati, diamanti, spinello, opale rosa

Like many other colleagues in the industry, Emily P. Wheeler also started her profession as a young girl, with beads, cords, silks and tassels. A passion that she kept as an adult, so much so that she abandoned her career as a public relations manager to devote herself to jewelry, in 2016. She deepened the techniques of composition, identified the artisans capable of translating her designs into collections and, last but not least less important, she has become a certified member of the Responsible Jewelry Council and regularly works with sustainability consultants throughout the material supply chain.

Collana in ebano, oro rosa 18 carati, spinello, tormalina rosa, morganite, tormalina rosa, tormalina pesca, granato malese
Collana in ebano, oro rosa 18 carati, spinello, tormalina rosa, morganite, tormalina rosa, tormalina pesca, granato malese
Orecchini oro rosa 18 carati, rose de France, diamante
Orecchini oro rosa 18 carati, rose de France, diamante
Anello in oro rosa 18 carati, spinello rosa, zaffiro blu verde, smalto bianco
Anello in oro rosa 18 carati, spinello rosa, zaffiro blu verde, smalto bianco
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, berillo giallo, tormalina brasiliana, citrino, smalto bianco
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, berillo giallo, tormalina brasiliana, citrino, smalto bianco
Orecchini in oro giallo e rosa, zaffiro, diamanti, smalto bianco
Orecchini in oro giallo e rosa, zaffiro, diamanti, smalto bianco

Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati, morganite, diamanti, spinello, smalto rosa
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati, morganite, diamanti, spinello, smalto rosa







Masterstrokes, high jewelry with two faces

//




The jewels by Masterstrokes, in gold, gems and refined enamelling technique. And some Vipassana meditation ♦︎

Jaipur, an Indian city with a thousand suggestions. The pink city is also known around the world for being one of the capitals of jewelry. And here, in Jaipur, a company has been active since 1941 which is now known as Jewels Emporium, run by the Bohra family and, today by husband and wife, Anup and Smriti Bohra. Alongside the gem trade, in 2001 the company launched the Masterstrokes brand. In addition to gold and gems, Masterstrokes jewels use the ancient art of French enamelling.

Gli orecchini Tre Grazie , con tormalina rosa per 21,52 carati, che collegano tre superfici estese realizzate con diversi trattamenti. Gli orecchini ruotano su un perno centrale: si possono indossare in tre modi diversi. Sono Incastonati con 2,62 carati di zaffiri arancioni e viola, 5,92 carati di diamanti taglio brillante, smalti plique-à-jour e champlevé. Sono stati progettati e realizzati a mano in 394 ore di lavoro
Gli orecchini Tre Grazie , con tormalina rosa per 21,52 carati, che collegano tre superfici estese realizzate con diversi trattamenti. Gli orecchini ruotano su un perno centrale: si possono indossare in tre modi diversi. Sono Incastonati con 2,62 carati di zaffiri arancioni e viola, 5,92 carati di diamanti taglio brillante, smalti plique-à-jour e champlevé. Sono stati progettati e realizzati a mano in 394 ore di lavoro

With over 300 shades in its palette and expertise in low taille, pliqué-a-jour and champlevé glazing techniques, Masterstrokes creations are admired, worn by women and owned by passionate collectors. They are obviously handcrafted jewels. Curiously, this technique was also used for a collection that is inspired by a completely different subject from the usual ones of jewelry, that is love, flowers and animals. The Indian tradition, however, is very present, the result of the Vipassana practice, one of the oldest meditation techniques in India, which means seeing things as they really are. Curiously, one of the Masterstrokes collections is dedicated, however, to the popular story of Jekyll and Hyde.
Anello a forma di farfalla della collezione Jekill e Hyde, con oro, diamanti, rubini del Mozambico, smalto
Anello a forma di farfalla della collezione Jekill e Hyde, con oro, diamanti, rubini del Mozambico, smalto

This 18-karat gold ring from the Jekyll and Hyde collection, for example, is shaped like a butterfly with diamond-encrusted wings, set with a 7.56-carat fancy cut Mozambican ruby. The wings fold gently to reveal a champlevé enamel side. It can be worn in two ways. The jewel was handmade with 3.74 carats of brilliant cut diamonds in 315 hours of work.

Anello Beyond Religion - Saint Teresa, in oro 18 carati, realizzato a mano in 510 ore di lavoro. L'opale da 2,21 carati rappresenta Santa Teresa, con una cornice di smaltatura champlevé ulteriormente evidenziata da diamanti taglio incastonati a griffe. I 2,75 carati di diamanti baguette che circondano l'anello rappresentano i meno fortunati nelle cure della santa
Anello Beyond Religion – Saint Teresa, in oro 18 carati, realizzato a mano in 510 ore di lavoro. L’opale da 2,21 carati rappresenta Santa Teresa, con una cornice di smaltatura champlevé ulteriormente evidenziata da diamanti taglio incastonati a griffe. I 2,75 carati di diamanti baguette che circondano l’anello rappresentano i meno fortunati nelle cure della santa

Collana a forma di piuma di pavone, ispirata alle ballerine dipinte dal pittore impressionista francese Edgar Degas. La collana, con smalti champlevé è impreziosita da una tanzanite da 41,05 carati , circondata da zaffiri gialli del peso di 4,77 carati e 15,3 carati di diamanti taglio brillante. Questo pezzo è stato realizzato a mano in 1.247 ore di lavoro
Collana a forma di piuma di pavone, ispirata alle ballerine dipinte dal pittore impressionista francese Edgar Degas. La collana, con smalti champlevé è impreziosita da una tanzanite da 41,05 carati , circondata da zaffiri gialli del peso di 4,77 carati e 15,3 carati di diamanti taglio brillante. Questo pezzo è stato realizzato a mano in 1.247 ore di lavoro
La collana è composta da un Opale di 28,44 carati, smalto, diamanti. Può essere indossata in entrambi i lati
La collana è composta da un Opale di 28,44 carati, smalto, diamanti. Può essere indossata in entrambi i lati
Shades of Lotus, collana e orecchini ispirati a Cleopatra. Con Conch rosa, perle barocche, diamanti, rubini
Shades of Lotus, collana e orecchini ispirati a Cleopatra. Con Conch rosa, perle barocche, diamanti, rubini
Orecchini ispirati all Ibisco, con rubini del Mozambico, oro, diamanti rosa
Orecchini ispirati all Ibisco, con rubini del Mozambico, oro, diamanti rosa
Bracciale Volcanus, della collezione The Fifth Element. È composto da una Rhodocrosite di 79 carati, su oro e diamanti che rappresentano la lava che fuoriesce dal vulcano
Bracciale Volcanus, della collezione The Fifth Element. È composto da una Rhodocrosite di 79 carati, su oro e diamanti che rappresentano la lava che fuoriesce dal vulcano

Questo bracciale a forma di polipo ha al centro un opale iridescente di 14,97 carati, circondato da smeraldi, oro 18 carati, diamanti, smalto
Questo bracciale a forma di polipo ha al centro un opale iridescente di 14,97 carati, circondato da smeraldi, oro 18 carati, diamanti, smalto







NeverNoT, the liveliness that cannot be denied

/




Never the future is sure, and never say never with NeverNoT. On the other hand, it was not easy for three women friends who came to London from distant Georgia, a country between Russia and Turkey, to invent a jewelry brand. Yet Nina Dzhokhadze, Natia Chkhartishvili and Tamara Svanidze have succeeded. And the capital letters of the Maison’s name indicate the names of the founders: Dzhokhadze manages sales and business development from London, while Chkhartishvili and Svanidze manage design and manufacturing in their native Georgia.

Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con smalto giallo e  topazio rosa
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con smalto giallo e topazio rosa

The jewelry has a unmistakable and playful style: the oversized cocktail rings are made of 18-karat gold, enamel of various colors and large semi-precious stones. The bright colors make the jewels immediately visible. In addition to the rings, NeverNoT also offers large earrings with or whitout fringes. The price of the jewels fluctuates between 2000 and 4000 dollars and can be purchased online. after receiving many compliments, the goal of the jewelry brand is now to establish itself internationally, a strategy that also passes through the next participation in specialized fairs.
Anello NeverNot Play in oro giallo 18 carati, smalto nero e giallo topazio blu
Anello NeverNot Play in oro giallo 18 carati, smalto nero e giallo topazio blu

Anello turchese in oro giallo 18 carati e smalto bianco e nero
Anello turchese in oro giallo 18 carati e smalto bianco e nero
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati con linee bianche e rosse, malachite e smalto
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati con linee bianche e rosse, malachite e smalto
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati con turchese e diamanti bianchi
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati con turchese e diamanti bianchi
Pendente in oro giallo 14 carati con topazio blu, smalto colorato e catena in oro giallo
Pendente in oro giallo 14 carati con topazio blu, smalto colorato e catena in oro giallo

Pendente in oro giallo 14 carati con topazio rosa, smalto colorato e catena in oro giallo
Pendente in oro giallo 14 carati con topazio rosa, smalto colorato e catena in oro giallo







The Mediterranean on the neck





The new bracelet by Selim Mouzannar presented at Couture and other novelties by the famous Lebanese jeweler ♦

It is when winter comes that increases the nostalgia for the water of the Mediterranean Sea. The blue waves of the sea where civilization was born, is now transformed into a necklace by Selim Mouzannar, designer of a Lebanese family of jewelers. Although it has outlets in France, United States, Great Britain and Switzerland, Selim Mouzannar has maintained his headquarters in Beirut, because of the link with the culture that overlooks the banks of the sea. To the sea, now, has dedicated a series of the same color of the crystal waters. According to the jeweler, in this jewel has summarized the different shades of blue Mediterranean: as the sea near the island of Hydra, in Greece, to Formentera in Spain, of the French Riviera… It took three months of work to compose the necklace Mediterranean, made in 18K yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires, aquamarines, turquoise. But, as you can see from the pictures, the creativity of the brand Lebanon does not stop there: he also won a prize at the Couture Awards in Las Vegas in 2016. Matilde de Bounvilles




Bracciale con smalto, tsavorite, tanzanite, zirconi blu naturali, diamanti
Bracciale con smalto, tsavorite, tanzanite, zirconi blu naturali, diamanti, presentato al Couture Show 2018
Anello con zaffiro blu intenso, oro rosa, avorio
Anello con zaffiro blu intenso, oro rosa, avorio
Selim Mouzannar, orecchini con tsavoriti, avorio, smalto, diamanti
Selim Mouzannar, orecchini con tsavoriti, avorio, smalto, diamanti
Selim Mouzannar, Mina collection, anello con smeraldi colombiani, avorio, smalto, diamanti
Selim Mouzannar, Mina collection, anello con smeraldi colombiani, avorio, smalto, diamanti
Anello della Beirut collection, in oro rosa, diamanti, perle naturali
Anello della Beirut collection, in oro rosa, diamanti, perle naturali
Selim Mouzannar, Transparence collection, bracciale in oro e topazi
Selim Mouzannar, Transparence collection, bracciale in oro e topazi bianchi
Collier in oro con zaffiri blu
Collier in oro con zaffiri blu
Orecchini a stella con diamanti
Orecchini a stella con diamanti
Orecchini a stella con diamanti
Orecchini a stella con diamanti
Anello con morganite rosa e spinello rosso, Beirut collection
Anello con morganite rosa e spinello rosso, Beirut collection
Bracciale con morganite rosa e diamanti
Bracciale con morganite rosa e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti di diversi tagli
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti di diversi tagli
A Selim Mouzannar il Best in Colored Gemstone sopra i 20.000 dollari
A Selim Mouzannar il Best in Colored Gemstone sopra i 20.000 dollari
Collana Mediterraneo
Collana Mediterraneo
Collezione Terra
Collezione Terra
Pendente della collezione Plage de Galets (ciotoli), con diamanti brown
Pendente della collezione Plage de Galets (ciotoli), con diamanti brown
Bracciale della collezione Shooting Stars
Bracciale della collezione Shooting Stars
Bracciali della collezione Sunset in oro rosa, turchese e diamanti
Bracciali della collezione Sunset in oro rosa, turchese e diamanti
Anello della collezione Sunset in oro rosa, turchese e diamanti
Anello della collezione Sunset in oro rosa, turchese e diamanti

Anello in oro con diamanti e tanzanite
Anello in oro con diamanti e tanzanite







The high jewelry by Shirley Zhang





Shirley Zhang, the depth of oriental thought enclosed in a jewel ♦ ︎
The high jewelery of Chinese designers has a unique, indisputable, precise identity. The millenary culture, the oriental sensibility, the delicacy in the processing of the material make creativity in high-level jewelry, a separate story. And this is the case with Shirley Zhang, whom we met at Baselworld. The designer founded her fine jewelry brand in 1994. She is based in Shenzhen. With an admirable lightness and ease in the design of his pieces, Shirley Zhang reminds with his jewels the delicate decorations with ink of the old masters. Although she is perfectly in tune with our times, as evidenced by the choker with flower motif made of titanium, gold, diamonds, sapphires, lapis and hot enamels, the house specialty, which is part of the Chinese tradition. Nature is, in fact, one of the great sources of inspiration. But it is a pin that reveals the all-Chinese ability to infuse a double reading of an image or, as in this case, an object.

Collana in oro bianco, smalto, diamanti, giada, Corallo, cristalli. Prezzo: 56750 euro
Collana in oro bianco, smalto, diamanti, giada, Corallo, cristalli.

The brooch, in fact, tells a part of Shirley’s way of interpreting life. The designer has faced various obstacles over the years. In the moment of drawing a balance on the past, he considered difficult experiences like a broken vase. But even the fragments of the broken vase can create something pleasant and beautiful. In short, the brooch (price: 18000 euros) is not just a gem, but a revelation. Difficult to find a similar comparison for a Western jewel.
The jewel is actually convertible into five different ways, you can choose how to wear it. The greatest difficulty in achieving it was to use hot enamel on the convex surface. Each fragment of the vase has its own space on the surface. In addition to
enamel, the brooch is made of 18 carat gold, spinels, diamonds, tsavorite, diopside.

Choker in titanio, oro, smalto, diamanti, zaffiri, lapislazzuli
Choker in titanio, oro, smalto, diamanti, zaffiri, lapislazzuli
Pendente in oro, smalto, diamanti, tsavorite
Pendente in oro, smalto, diamanti, tsavorite
Collier in oro, smalti, diamanti, perla
Collier in oro, smalti, diamanti, perla
Spilla in oro, smalto, diamanti, spinelli, diopside
Spilla in oro, smalto, diamanti, spinelli, diopside