Elena Okutova

The evocative world of Elena Okutova




From St. Petersburg to Moscow to Geneva. Elena Okutova is one of the new generation Russian designers, who combine the Russian goldsmith tradition with the desire to innovate. The designer returned to GemGèneve autumn edition, where she was also present last year, but in the Vivarium Quartet area, while last year she was Emerging Talent. Her jewels are elaborate, dense and made with the use of traditional techniques, including silver, enamel and gold, which are accompanied by gems. In addition to the way of working rings or pendants, the jewels also reflect Russian traditions, fairy tales, tales and folklore, with references to ancient history.

Anello con ametista, argento, oro, smalto, zaffiri. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello con ametista, argento, oro, smalto, zaffiri. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Elena Okutova studied artistic metalworking at Moscow State University and founded her own brand in 2009 in tandem with her mother Irina, who accompanies her. The jewels are first modeled by hand in wax and then made with engraving, enamelling, setting. Oriental references are intertwined, such as the Ottoman turban-shaped ring, but also with Chinese or contemporary art. They are unique pieces that make the designer’s work original and evocative at the same time.
elena okutova anello con prasiolite Copyright gioiellis
Anello Japanese Garden, con un presiolite al centro

Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Japanese Garden ring,  fianco
Japanese Garden ring, in argento, oro, smalto. Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Japanese Garden ring,  esterno
Japanese Garden ring, esterno. Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello in argento, oro, rodolite, granati, zaffiri viola. Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello in argento, oro, rodolite, granati, zaffiri viola. Anello Japanese Garden, con fiori di loto, draghi con tre draghi e pesci koi che nuotano a monte. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello a forma di turbante ottomano. Argento, oro, crisoprasio
Anello a forma di turbante ottomano. Argento, oro, crisoprasio. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello in argento oro, gemme Swarovski, ispirato alla melagrana
Anello in argento oro, gemme Swarovski, ispirato alla melagrana e all’impero ottomano. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Elena Okutova. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Elena Okutova. Copyright: gioiellis.com







Vivarium Quartet, four designer at GemGèneve




It is called Vivarium Quartet. And it is defined as a mini showcase for creators. At the next GemGèneve (3-6 November 2022), Vivienne Becker, jewel historian and curator of the Designer Vivarium of GemGenève, has selected four designer-jewelers: Alix Dumas of Mad Joaillerie, Philippe Lauras, who returns to Geneva as well as Alex Jefford, and Elena Okutova, who previously participated in the Emerging Talents review. Each of the four designers has a different style and a different story behind them. In the coming days we will explore the work of individual designers.

Anello per mignolo in oro bianco e diamanti di Mad Joaillerie
Anello per mignolo in oro bianco e diamanti di Mad Joaillerie

In short, Alix Dumas is a designer born in France, but who has also lived in Romania and Turkey, including Istanbul. She launched her own brand and in 2020 she founded Mad Joaillerie, despite her name, not a crazy decision (you can find her work here). Philippe Lauras, on the other hand, had an artistic education at the École de Joaillerie de Paris (BJOP), but he also studied gemology, design and sculptural modeling. He started working in 1980 and had the opportunity to train in two of the most famous Parisian high jewelery workshops (we wrote about he here).  Alex Jefford was born and raised in Geneva, but lives in London, where she studied fine arts at Central Saint Martins College, with a predilection for engraving and drawing: we have already talked about her work here. Elena Okutova, was born in St. Petersburg, but lives and works in Moscow with her mother Irina. Her work is deeply rooted in Russian traditions, those of craftsmanship and the use of enamels and colored gemstones.
Alex Jefford, anello in oro  giallo e bianco con diamanti
Alex Jefford, anello in oro giallo e bianco con diamanti

Elena Okutova, spilla Papyrus
Elena Okutova, spilla Papyrus

Philippe Lauras, orecchini  Impatiente, con oro rodiato e diamanti
Philippe Lauras, orecchini
Impatiente, con oro rodiato e diamanti

Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello di Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello di Alexandra Jefford. Copyright: gioiellis.com







The designers in GemGèneve’s Vivarium




The Latin word vivarium means pond, a small basin of water. And since GemGèneve was born it has proposed its Designer Vivarium (this will be the fourth edition), curated by the jewelery historian Vivienne Becker. The idea is to bring together the work of individual particularly innovative jewelers-designers in a defined space. Since then, the Beckerian lake has seen the succession of young and old designers from all over the world. Some return, others debut. Here, for example, are those foreseen in the Designer Vivarium at the next GemGèneve (5-8 May): Aline Debusigne (Switzerland), Sean Gilson (USA), Regina Gambatesa (Italy), Saurabh Bhola (India), Oktaaf ​​(Spain), Gaelle Khouri (Lebanon), Philippe Lauras (France). Of course, we will be dedicating articles to individual participants of the Designer Vivarium in the near future.

Designer Vivarium ottobre 2021
Designer Vivarium ottobre 2021

Vivienne Becker was assisted and assisted in the selection process by Ida Faerber, daughter of one of the two founders of GemGèneve (Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah). The leitmotif for the selection is the refinement of craftsmanship and the innovative use of materials. The styles represented in the Designer Vivarium 2022, as always, are all very different from each other, and testify to the breadth, depth and versatility of expression in today’s contemporary jewelry world. The idea for a contemporary design showcase originally came from the founders of GemGenève, Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah. An important part of their mission in creating the show was to foster and nurture talent and ingenuity in today’s jewelry world, to give a voice and a platform.

Article updated on April 7. Compared to the previous version, the Russian designer Elena Okutova no longer appears, it is not known whether it is her decision (or impossibility given the geopolitical situation) or a choice of the organizers.

Vivienne Becker
Vivienne Becker
GemGèneve 2021, anello di Studio Renn. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2021, anello di Studio Renn. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com
GemGèneve 2021. Copyright: gioiellis.com