David Bennett

Understanding yesterday’s jewelry to understand today’s jewelry




Before buying a jewel it is better to know it. Especially if the jewel is of great value. And to judge a jewel it is necessary to understand the quality and style. For this reason, since 1989 an indispensable guide for those who love (or want to invest) in jewelry is Understanding Jewelery, a book written by David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti. This jewelry bible now returns with a focus on the 20th century. This is, in fact, a particularly important period for jewelry, in which new techniques were developed and new styles introduced.

Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century
Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century

Understanding Jewelery: The Twentieth Century (ACC Art Books, 300 pages, over 500 photos. Price: 76 euros or $ 72.50) analyzes, and shows with lots of images, the changes for each decade, among the major jewelry brands, the trends , the news. The book, a large volume (325 x 275 mm) with hardcover, also includes a new series of photographs: the text of the two authors is, in any case, understandable even to non-experts in jewelry. David Bennett was the world president of Sotheby’s international jewelry division and president of Sotheby’s Switzerland. Daniela Mascetti was Sotheby’s Chairman of Jewelery in Europe, where she has worked since 1980, opening the department based in Milan. She is also one of the most experienced scholars in the history of jewelry, her search for her has seen several noteworthy auctions, from the Duchess of Windsor’s jewels to the collections of Elton John and Gina Lollobrigida.

David Bennett
David Bennett

Daniela Mascetti
Daniela Mascetti

Alcune pagine del libro Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century
Alcune pagine del libro Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century

Pagine del libro Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century
Pagine del libro Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century

Una pagina del libro Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century
Una pagina del libro Understanding Jewellery: The Twentieth Century

Tiara Belle Epoque, una delle 500 illustrazioni del libro
Tiara Belle Epoque, una delle 500 illustrazioni del libro







The Sotheby’s super auctions are back, here is the calendar




All the economy’s activities, hibernated by the coronavirus, return to (almost) normal: even the jewelery auctions. Sotheby’s has unveiled its new season of jewelry auctions, with dates re-adjusted from the pre-coronavirus calendar. Traditional auctions, often considered a critical factor for the market, follow a series of successful online sales. The results achieved in the last five weeks have been facilitated by Sotheby’s long-term omnichannel strategy, i.e. sales both with auctions in physical locations and via the web.

Unprecedented times are often a catalyst for change, crystallising pre-existing trends and accelerating innovations. In the past few weeks, we have seen the jewellery market further completing its digital revolution: our online sales realised some of their best performances ever, with many new and young collectors from around the world joining. It is also very clear that people are now confident in buying and selling important jewels online. As we look forward to welcoming jewellery lovers back to our salesrooms and exhibitions, we are excited to push ahead with innovative formats in the coming months, starting with the single-lot online sale of a sensational Tutti Frutti bracelet by Cartier at the end of this month.
David Bennett, world president of Sotheby’s jewelry division

David Bennet
David Bennet

Cartier bracelet: April 24-28
The new season begins with an unprecedented single-lot online auction, with a sensational Tutti Frutti bracelet with embedded gems, diamonds and enamels made by Cartier in the 1930s. Estimated between $ 600,000 and $ 800,000, this Art Deco jewelry masterpiece comes from an American collection. The bracelet is set with old European cut diamonds, emeralds, rubies and carved sapphires, as well as emerald pearls, cabochon and emerald sapphires, calibrated cut onyx and black enamel. The jewel is signed Cartier, numbered 1604; about 1930.
Bracciale Tutti i Frutti di Cartier, circa 1930
Bracciale Tutti i Frutti di Cartier, circa 1930

Magnificent Jewels – New York, June 9
It is the auction that was scheduled for April: it will present a series of important colored and white diamonds, significant precious stones and vintage and contemporary jewels of the most sought-after houses. Highlights include an exquisite 3.67 carat deep blue diamond ring (approximately $ 2.5-3.5 million, pictured left), a stunning Kashmir sapphire and a 1960s Cartier diamond bracelet (estimate of about 750,000 – 1 million dollars) and a rare Cartier coral bracelet from the 1930s from the Ganna Walska collection (about 80,000 – 120,000 dollars).
Anello con diamante blu intenso da 3,67 carati
Anello con diamante blu intenso da 3,67 carati

Paris Joaillerie – June 10th
Paris will celebrate the return to live auctions with a sale of 278 lots led by treasures of the French avant-garde, including a sumptuous 1930s gold and diamond Barbare necklace by Suzanne Belperron (lot 253, estimate 80,000-140,000 euros). Sotheby’s in Paris will also pay homage to the Parisian jeweler Mellerio, a Maison that has turned 407 years and is the oldest in the world, with the sale of 25 pieces created in the last 30 years of the last century. The salient lots include a necklace of emeralds and diamonds, with a 19.76 carat drop emerald cabochon (lot 169, estimate 20,000-40,000 euros).
Collana Barbare in oro e diamanti degli anni Trenta di Suzanne Belperron
Collana Barbare in oro e diamanti degli anni Trenta di Suzanne Belperron

Magnificent and Noble Jewels – Geneva, June 30th
Reprogrammed from the original date of May 12, the flagship auction will illuminate Lake Geneva with a series of important diamonds and precious stones selected for their rarity and quality, including Il Diamante Dell’Alba, an exceptional intense intense yellow diamond that weighs 100.52 carats (estimate of around 3-5 million dollars). Among the signed treasures that will be offered on June 30, Cartier lovers will certainly have fun with a beautiful coral and diamond brooch and a splendid pair of clips with diamond from the 1930s, and a diamond bracelet.
Diamante giallo intenso intenso di 100,52 carati
Diamante giallo intenso intenso di 100,52 carati

Magnificent Jewels – Hong Kong, 10 July
Originally scheduled for April, the sale will feature jadeite and colored diamonds, along with iconic designer pieces, such as the Van Cleef & Arpels Zip bracelet-necklace.
Collana-bracciale Zip di Van Cleef & Arpels
Collana-bracciale Zip di Van Cleef & Arpels







Raj Pink, king of diamonds

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A super pink 37.30-carat diamond on auction at Sotheby’s in Geneva ♦ ︎
It’s back the big diamond season, with big expectations and (probably) big prices. In Geneva Sotheby’s will presents The Raj Pink, the largest Fancy Intense Pink diamond with a weight of 37.30 carats. This superlative and exceptionally rare diamond will be at the center of the auction dedicated to Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on November 15th. “The discovery of a pink diamond is exceptional, but the remarkable size and intensity of the color of Raj Pink put it in the rare company of the most important pink diamonds known,” commented David Bennett, world president of Sotheby’s International Jewelery Division. The raw diamond that produced The Raj Pink was studied for more than a year after its discovery in 2015. It was then entrusted to a cutting master that highlighted its features. The result is a diamond with a special cushion cut. The name, Raj Pink, was given by the current owner of the diamond, who wants to remain anonymous. Raj is a word that in Sanskrit, the ancient language of India, means king.
The Gemological Institute of America (Gia) has certified the diamond. The description is full of superlative adjectives: “stunning stone”, with shades like “an intense pink and bright, very bright.” According to Gia, “for a diamond to show a pink and natural pink like the one observed in The Pink Raj is rare, especially if it has such a heavy weight.”
The discovery of a quality pink diamond of every dimension is an extremely rare event. Of all diamonds presented to Gia every year, less than 0.02% are pink. “Only on rare occasions diamonds with vibrant and shimmering colors like Raj Pink emerge from the ground … only the most privileged and experienced in the industry know about their existence. With an unmodified Fancy Intense Pink nuance, substantial dimensions and desirable clarity, Raj Pink is definitely one of those jewels that only a few would have the honor to experience,” concluded the Gemological Institute. Federico Graglia



The Raj Pink, il più grande diamante Fancy Intense Pink, con un peso di 37,30 carati
The Raj Pink, il più grande diamante Fancy Intense Pink, con un peso di 37,30 carati
In asta da Sotheby's anche questo anello di diamanti Superb Fancy Vivid Blue, Moussaieff, con peso di 7.41 carati, Interno Flawless
In asta da Sotheby’s anche questo anello di diamanti Superb Fancy Vivid Blue, Moussaieff, con peso di 7.41 carati, Interno Flawless

In asta anche questa collana e spilla di diamanti e rubini, circa 1935
In asta anche questa collana e spilla di diamanti e rubini, circa 1935