Club degli Orafi Archives

The Italian jewel shines, but fears the war in Ukraine

Published on April 13, 2023

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2022 went well, but the Italian gold and jewelery sector above all hopes that the war in Ukraine will end. According to the survey among sector operators commissioned by the Club degli Orafi to Intesa Sanpaolo, the largest Italian bank, 56% of the operators interviewed believe that the invasion of Ukraine has negatively affected the sector’s opportunities. And the hope of a resolution of the conflict, in terms of influence on business, even exceeds the hope of a strong recovery of international tourism, to which a part of jewelry sales is linked.

In any case, the Report on the Italian gold sector indicates a very positive balance for 2022. The turnover of companies increased by 22.1%, an increase that follows the post-pandemic rebound that already accrued in 2021 (+55.3%). The good positioning on international markets supported these results, with jewelery exports exceeding 9 billion euros in 2022, with a full recovery of pre-covid levels both in value (+41%) and in quantity (+5 %).

Among the various markets, the United States confirmed its first place with 1.5 billion euros (+12% in 2022), also supported by the strengthening of the dollar. In second place is exports to Switzerland (1.3 billion euros, + 21%) and the United Arab Emirates. For the current year, apart from the hopes related to an end to the war, a positive majority sentiment prevails for the largest companies both for the domestic market and for the international markets. But the main obstacle seems entirely internal: the difficulty of finding specialized manpower, which is indicated by more than half of the sample of respondents (51%) as a critical issue. According to the companies, it is a bigger problem than the increases in the prices of raw materials, despite the fact that gold is now above the $2,000 mark.

Le previsioni per il settore della gioielleria

Produzione e fatturato del settore orafo-gioielleria

Golden year for the goldsmith sector

Published on January 20, 2023

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What is the state of health of the gold sector in Italy? For three years the Club degli Orafi, an association that brings together some of the large companies in the sector, has been asking the main Italian bank, Intesa San Paolo, for it. The result is a Conjunctural Survey which by now seems to be a necessary appointment for those who work in the world of jewellery.
The new edition of the research, presented during Vicenzaoro January, indicates widespread optimism among operators. The balance sheet for 2022 in each size class of companies records an increase in turnover for around 70% of those who responded to the survey. Although the final data for 2022 are still provisional, Banca Intesa’s research confirms the change in the Istat index (the Italian public statistical body), which stands at +25% in the January-October period, better than the sectors of fashion and manufacturing chain.

Settore orafo, commercio con l'estero — Settore orafo, commercio con l’estero

Optimism confirmed by the industrial production of the gold sector, with a growth trend in the January-November period both compared to 2021 (+15%) and in comparison. with 2019 it becomes +28%. After the two difficult years of covid, in short, and in spite of the geopolitical crisis involving Ukraine and Russia, exports have not stopped: in the first nine months of last year there was growth both in value (+30%), both in quantity (+11%), with a full overcoming of the pre-pandemic crisis values (+40%).

Italy ranks as the sixth exporting country of jewelery and semi-finished products, with a growing market share, especially in the United States, where it has managed to consolidate its positioning (12.5% market share in November 2022) .
What about 2023? The survey indicates generalized expectations of a slowdown and greater prudence: for larger companies, however, the sentiment remains positive both for the domestic market (56% of respondents) and for the foreign market (61%). Obviously everyone hopes that the Russian invasion will end and with it the war.

Quotazione dell'oro — Quotazione dell’oro

The analysis of the data relating to 2022 shows how the positive trend recorded in recent months was not temporary and in response to the decline in 2020, but rather a sign of extraordinary structural growth in the Italian gold sector. The companies have managed to directly address most of the critical issues that aroused the greatest concern in recent months, such as the geopolitical situation, increases in energy costs and difficulties associated with raw materials. The end of travel restrictions with the consequent recovery of trade fairs and tourism have given further impetus both in terms of further strengthening of exports and as regards the recovery of retail. The by now undeferrable issue of finding human resources remains, becoming stronger, which has become a priority for almost all companies, especially large ones.
Giorgio Villa, President of the Club degli Orafi Italia

Giorgio Villa, presidente del Club degli Orafi Italia e Stefania Trenti, Responsabile Industry Research, Direzione Studi e Ricerche Intesa Sanpaolo sul palco di Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

But for Italian companies, the game is played above all in comparison with other national or European operators, while the greatest difficulties are represented by the finding of manpower, indicated by one respondent out of two (rising to 87% of cases for production) and which, due to a progressive downsizing of the problems related to the management of raw materials and supplies, is in first place.

Lavorazione di gioielli nel laboratorio di Pedemonte Group

Also in 2022, the Italian gold sector confirmed its high level of competitiveness, especially in international markets, with export growth of 30% in value and 11% in quantity, fully exceeding the pre-crisis values. The contribution of the US market stands out in particular, also supported by the favorable exchange rate, returning to first place among the destinations of Italian jewelery which has progressively strengthened its positioning so as to represent 12.5% of total American imports in November 2022. Overall, the sector has shown great resilience and competitiveness over the last two years, the result of a long process of selection and requalification of the offer that has led Italy to become the main production hub for high-end jewelery . It will be essential, also given the more uncertain context that lies ahead, to continue along the path of strengthening the offer thanks to investments aimed at making production processes more efficient and supporting the know-how necessary for the development of the sector.
Stefania Trenti, Head of Industry Research, Intesa Sanpaolo Studies and Research Department

Una fase di lavorazione dei gioielli Crieri

The jewelry shines, with some shadows

Published on September 10, 2022

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La cerimonia inaugurale di Vicenzaoro, con Lorenzo Cagnoni, presidente Italian Exhibition Group, Elena Bonetti, Ministro per le Pari opportunità e famiglia, Erika Stefani, Ministro per le disabilità, Francesco Rucco, sindaco di Vicenza, Roberto Luongo, Direttore Generale ICE Agenzia, Maria Cristina Franco, vicepresidente della Provincia di Vicenza, Claudia Piaserico, presidente Federorafi, Roberto Marcato, Assessore allo Sviluppo Economico ed Energia Regione Veneto

How is the jewelry market in Italy going? This question is answered by the second edition of the economic survey organized by the Goldsmiths Club and Banca Intesa Sanpaolo. The results were defined with a survey among the members of the Goldsmiths’ Club, an association that brings together the most important companies in the Italian goldsmith industry. The survey was presented in a talk during the first day of Vicenzaoro. Result: everything is fine for now. More than half of the operators hypothesize a growth in turnover, also confirmed by the change in the Istat index, which stood at + 32% in the first half of 2022, better than the sectors of the fashion sector and the average of Italian manufacturing.

Still according to the survey, in terms of industrial production, jewelery and costume jewelery ranks among the best performers of the Italian industry, both in comparison with the first half of 2021 (+ 23%, in fourth position among the manufacturing sectors) and with respect to first six months of 2019 (+ 30%, which earned it third place in the ranking).

Vetrine di Piovani a Vicenzaoro September. Copyright: gioiellis.com

However, some shadows loom. One is brought about by Russia’s war in Ukraine. The second, on the other hand, concerns the increase in interest rates. Furthermore, the inflationary phenomenon is historically accompanied by the increase in the price of gold. At the beginning of September, the survey confirms, compared to previous editions, a downward revision of expectations was recorded which, however, seems to involve only smaller operators. The larger companies, on the other hand, confirm their stability for the current year with 70% of participants declaring a growth in turnover. It should be added, however, that the quantity of what is sold does not always correspond to the profits written in the financial statements.

In any case, in the first five months of 2022 there was a growth of 41% in value and 15% in quantity of exports. The Made in Italy jewel has managed to consolidate its positioning towards the main commercial competitors. In particular, it gained positions in the United States where it represents the second partner with a share of 12.7% in the first part of 2022.

However, it is surprising that, faced with this uncertain picture, companies complain in particular of the difficulty in finding labor, a problem indicated by 80% of the largest companies, while among smaller companies the attention to transport costs is growing.

War in Ukraine and jewelry: what impact will it have?

Published on March 18, 2022

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What impact will the invasion of Ukraine and the war unleashed by Russia have on the world of jewelry? A question posed in Italy by the Goldsmiths Club and Intesa Sanpaolo, the largest bank in Italy. To understand this, an investigation was carried out for the first time involving the members of the Goldsmiths’ Club, an association that brings together the most important companies in the Italian goldsmith industry. The result is a photograph of the state of health of the sector, but also of the strategic indications that follow the conflict. It is not hazardous to think that the same concerns also involve jewelry companies residing in other countries. The result, presented in the context of Vicenzaoro, leaves no doubt.

Laboratorio orafo Cazzaniga Nobili — Laboratorio orafo

About 78% of respondents, after the conflict, show a negative impact, with the increase in the prices of raw materials as the greatest criticality indicated by all survey participants. But the ability to react is also significant: 30% of companies are already thinking about organizational changes, in particular through a review of supply channels, but also of price lists and sales channels.

Visitatori a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

And to say that the picture that emerged on the Italian goldsmith industry, before the war, is positive. Almost 60% of the interviewees did not suffer a decrease in turnover even during the pandemic year 2020, or it has already completely recovered them in 2021. The Istat turnover index (Italian statistical body) shows a growth in gold and costume jewelery by over 50% in 2021 which brings the levels of 17% above those of 2019, a figure clearly above the manufacturing average (+ 9%) and above all to the other fashion sectors, which still suffer from a gap with respect to pre -pandemic.

L'incastonatura di uno smeraldo, laboratorio de Grisogono — L’incastonatura di uno smeraldo

Competitiveness on international markets is crucial for the recovery of the sector, with exports reaching an all-time record of 8.5 billion euros for gold and costume jewelery and 7.5 billion for gold jewelery alone, thanks to the excellent results achieved on all markets, in particular the United States, which strengthen its role as a first outlet. But in this atmosphere of widespread optimism, with over 73% of companies expecting further growth in turnover in 2022, the investigation by the Goldsmiths Club highlighted concerns as early as January, due to the increase in the prices of raw materials. and delays in procurement.

Laboratorio Garavelli, la scelta delle pietre

The companies in the sector, however, seem ready for the challenge: 60% have increased their investments in the last two years, despite the pandemic, with particular attention to training and human capital, which received the highest scores in terms of priority and was indicated by only 5% of the sample as not relevant. This is followed by the digitization of the production phase, Research and Development and the enhancement of the brand. In short, the gaze goes beyond war.

Laura Biason as director of the Goldsmiths’ Club

Published on January 11, 2022

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New general manager of the Club degli Orafi Italia, an independent association that brings together the most important companies in the Italian goldsmith industry. The club will be managed by Laura Biason, engineer, graduated from the Polytechnic of Turin, expert in business organization. The manager has a long experience in supporting Italian companies and on the issues of institutional relations in Italy and abroad, which have led her to promote Made in Italy on international markets. She is passionate about communication, technological and digital innovation and change management, over the years she has made her skills available to companies of various sectors, serving, first as an officer and subsequently as director, in various components of the Italian representation system. Biason also directed Vitrum, an international fair for the glass sector, and a foundation operating in the social sector.

I am honored to have been called to direct the Club degli Orafi Italia, an association that expresses the Italian excellence of the goldsmith industry in all its forms. I will put my skills at the service of this extraordinary sector by continuing the path already well traveled and supporting the associates in their challenges. Culture, communication, internationalization, promotion of the uniqueness of the Italian style, growth in visibility and business are just some of the lines on which we are already implementing the recommendations of the Summit. The Club is a unique catalyst of opportunities and we will work to maximize the value of membership and participation.
Laura Biason

Unoaerre in the Goldsmiths Club

Published on May 24, 2021

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Cristina Squarcialupi, presidente di Unoaerre

Unoaerre is the member number 23 of the Goldsmiths’ Club, an association that brings together some of the major companies in the sector.

We are very proud to rejoin the Club. Unoaerre was in fact at the origins of the Club as a founding member more than 40 years ago. We fully share the Club’s values and its strategy, especially with regard to sustainability, innovation and communication. We are confident that it will be a very fruitful collaboration.
Cristina Squarcialupi, President of Unoaerre

Unoaerre was founded in 1926 by Leopoldo Gori and Carlo Zucchi, and is one of the leading companies in the world specialized in the production, distribution and export of jewelery products, with distribution in over 40 countries and direct branches in France and Japan. In particular, in Italy the Tuscan company is the leading brand in the wedding ring market (over 70%) with over 6,000 points of sale served and a network of about one hundred distributors and agents.
Since 2013 Unoaerre has been part of the largest Italian integrated goldsmith group.

It is a pleasure for all of us to welcome Unoaerre among our members, in this moment of optimism and restart. We are very excited to share this journey together.
Giorgio Villa, President of the Goldsmiths Club Italy

Giorgio Villa president of the Goldsmiths’ Club

Published on April 13, 2021

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During his life he won several gold medals competing in extreme sports. Now, however, Giorgio Villa is tasting a gold won at his desk: he was unanimously elected, in fact, the new president of the Goldsmiths’ Club for the three-year period 2021-2024. This was decided by the assembly of the club’s members, which brings together the most well-known companies in the made in Italy jewelry industry.

I am truly honored with this highly prestigious post. I would like to thank all my team for the commitment they have taken on with great enthusiasm. I am sure that together with them, we will develop a rich program of services dedicated to our members. Never before have we needed to create a system and share strategic choices for the benefit of the entire sector.
Giorgio Villa, president of the Goldsmiths’ Club

Villa will be supported by a team composed of Eleonora Rizzuto, Chief Ethics & Compliance Officer – Director Corporate Sustainability & Responsibility Bulgari, Simona Demeglio, Production Manager Roberto Demeglio as vice-presidents. Board members are Azzurra Cesari, Project Manager Cesari & Rinaldi Gemmai, Futurgem group, Andrea Liverino, Production Manager, Candido Operti, Antica Orologeria Candido Operti Cagliari and Antonio Songa, CEO Antonio Songa. Furthermore, Isabella Traglio, Deputy General Manager Vhernier and Costantino Papadimitriou, Marketing Consultant, as well as the past presidents Augusto Ungarelli, president of Vendorafa Lombardi, Andrea Broggian, Chief Operating Officer Vhernier and Luciano Mattioli, President of Mattioli, will be advisors to the president.
The general management remains with Alexandra Trosin.

Giorgio Villa is president of 8853, a milestone in the industrial panorama of Italian and international Precious Metals Banks. In recent years he has bet on digital transformation, building three platforms ranging from gold to silver, from palladium to platinum, from bars to coins to dental. Villa is also known as a lover of extreme sports: he was a three-time Offshore World Champion, as well as boasting seven world speed records and winner of two Paris-Dakar in the truck category. Today, however, he is dedicated to golf.

Sustainable jewels in VicenzaOro January

Published on January 16, 2019

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VicenzaOro January in an edition dedicated to sustainable jewelery. With many new features ♦ ︎

VicenzaOro January it’s back (Friday 18 – Wednesday 23). For the main italian fair dedicated to jewelry is, this time, the first appointment completely organized by the new management of Italian Exhibition Group, that is without the presence of former manager Corrado Facco and former vice president Matteo Marzotto. Not only that: it will also be the first time, after 25 years, without an important exhibitor like Pasquale Bruni, but with the presence of new brands and some returns, like Chantecler. But this does not changes the importance of the appointment, a firm reference point for the gold industry and for jewelry lovers. Easy to summarize the official data of VicenzaOro January.

More than 59,000 square meters gross of spaces set up, 36,000 expected visitors, including international buyers, producers and designers from more than 130 countries: 60% of visitors come from abroad.

Il brand di VicenzaOro

As usual, the exhibitors are divided into homogeneous areas: Icon, Look, Creation, Expression, Essence, Evolution, to which is added the Design Room with 12 invited brands. For companies, in conjunction with Vicenzaoro, also returns T.Gold, the exhibition dedicated to machinery and innovative technologies applied to jewelery and precious objects. And for visitors, following the Milan Design Week model, the program outside the Fair is back: Vioff Golden Wood edition (from Friday 18 to Sunday 20 January).
The program of initiatives will be dedicated, among other things. fundraising for the reconstruction of a wood on the Asiago plateau after the flood last autumn. The Fuori Fiera created by the City of Vicenza to promote the city and its excellences includes a program of initiatives dedicated to art, culture, entertainment and sporting exhibitions, widespread crafts & design shows, products of local businesses.

In addition to the stands with the new collections, VicenzaOro January also offers a series of training events as usual.

Booth di Tirisi a VicenzaOro September 2018 ©Gioiellis

The Club degli Orafi Italia, for example, has organized a conference on the hot topic of sustainability: Sustainable (R) evolution: creating value through social purpose, scheduled for Sunday morning, January 20th, with Gabriele Aprea, president of the Club degli Orafi Italia and Chantecler , and by Marco Carniello, director of Ieg’s Jewelery & Fashion division, Eleonora Rizzuto, director of Sustainable Development for Bulgari and Lvmh, Aram Shishmanian, CEO of the World Gold Council, Enzo Liverino, president of Enzo Liverino 1894, Gaetano Cavalieri, president of Cibjo . In fact, the fil rouge of the appointment is sustainable creativity. Starting from the conference of Visio.Next, to continue in the Digital Talks, in the Gem Talks and in the presentation of Trendvision, will be the main theme in the six days of Vicenza.

Laura Bicego e una prova gioielli nell'area di Nanis. ©Gioiellis.com — Laura Bicego e una prova gioielli nell’area di Nanis. ©Gioiellis.com

Vetrina di Casato a VicenzaOro. ©Gioiellis.com

Bracciale con diamanti e zaffiri in vetrina a VicenzaOro

At the Club degli Orafi now shines Alexandra Trosin

Published on September 10, 2018

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Alexandra Trosin to the general direction of the Club degli Orafi Italia ♦ ︎

At the Club degli Orafi, an independent association that brings together the most important companies in the Italian goldsmith’s industry, Alexandra Trosin arrives as general manager. Expert in fashion and luxury goods, Trosin has an international experience in fashion houses such as Dior, Brioni, Valentino and Giambattista Valli, as well as consultancy collaborations both for strategic subjects and for financial investors. Graduated in Economics and Management of Arts, Cultures, Media and Entertainment at the Bocconi University of Milan, she is also responsible for BocconiAlumni’s Topic Fashion Luxury Design.
“In my new role at the Club degli Orafi starting from the enhancement of the extraordinary heritage of the Club, together with the board, we will implement the strategic plan we have developed in recent months with the help of the consulting firm Valdani Vicari & Associati. This is an ambitious but sustainable business plan, whose objective is to put the interests of the members at the center, bearing in mind the strategic importance of our sector for the enhancement of Made in Italy and the economy of the country in general.”

Italian jewelry shine more

Published on April 27, 2018

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Damiani, anello in oro bianco, rubino e diamanti

The point on the jewelery market in Italy: in 2017 sales were growing. And export boom especially to France (thanks to Bulgari) ♦ ︎
Immediately after the complaints about the weather (it’s too hot, too cold, too rainy, too dry), the second favorite sport of Italians is pessimism. That of the Italians is a people of dissatisfied, much more unhappy than those who live in countries with less wealth, less beauties to admire, less exquisite foods to taste. So, if goldsmiths say that 2017 was a golden year, you really have to believe them.
The Goldsmiths Club took the opportunity to take stock of the jewelery market, citing Istat data on the production and turnover of the jewelery and jewelery sector. In 2017, therefore, the two sectors recorded growth of 15.6% and 8.9% respectively in Italy. But since you do not need to get too excited, the Goldsmith Club cools your enthusiasm a little. Yes, it is true that business has gone better, but also thanks to the improvement of the world economy and the specific demand for gold jewelery, as decreed by the World Gold Council. In the world, in fact, in 2017 the worldwide demand for gold jewelery has increased by 4% in quantity, thanks above all to an acceleration at the end of the year.
More exports
Italian companies have taken advantage of it to export more. Export to other countries has risen by 12% in value for the jewelery and costume jewelery (12.7% for the precious metal component alone, which also grows by 6% in quantity). In particular, sales to France increased (+ 33.0%, almost 190 million more than in 2016), also due to the entry into production of the new Bulgari plant in Valenza, part of the French Lvmh group, with Alessandria which becomes the first exporting province, exceeding the 2 billion euro threshold.
Good export results also to Switzerland (+ 15.7%, equal to 188 million euro) firmly in first place as a destination, to Hong Kong (+ 16.2%, 109.5 million euro) and to the United States (+19.5, 127.3 million euros). The strong development of direct exports to Turkey, which grew by 29% (+ € 56 million), should be noted. On the other hand, sales to the United Arab Emirates continued to decline (-3.4%): compared to 2013, Italian jewelery sales fell by around 30%, with a loss of 380 million euro. Despite the increase in imports (+ 9.1% and + 23.6% for the precious metal component), the balance of the goldsmith sector has further increased, exceeding 4 billion euros (4.4 billion for jewelery in precious).
The analyst’s comment
«The acceleration of the production, turnover and export indices throughout 2017 shows the importance of Italian know-how and expertise in jewelery, able to attract new investments and support the competitiveness of the numerous small and medium-sized businesses companies operating in the sector. The international scenario remains favorable to companies in the sector also in 2018, with the main target markets expected to remain growing», is the comment of Stefania Trenti, of the Research Department of Intesa Sanpaolo. Federico Graglia

Anello Trombino con rubino burmese di 5,98 carati non riscaldato

Il celebre bracciale serpente, in versione orologio

81064079 emozioni — Anello in oro bianco, rubino e diamanti

Orecchini con pendente in oro bianco della collezione Emozioni — Damiani, orecchini con pendente in oro bianco della collezione Emozioni

(Italiano) Il bracciale super star di Natale

Published on October 22, 2017

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Bracciale doppio filo in cuoio 3 mm con elementi in oro lavorato a mano, argento, perle naturali, ametista verde, amazzonite, acquamarina e turchese

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Il bracciale batte tutti negli acquisti di Natale, in aumento chi sceglie gioielli ♦︎

Che gioiello acquisteranno gli italiani per Natale? Uno su due comprerà un bracciale. La previsione è contenuta nella indagine svolta da Format Research per conto di Federpreziosi Confcommercio, Club degli Orafi e Preziosa Magazine, e presentata al Gold/Italy di Arezzo. La ricerca si basa sulle risposte di un campione di consumatori con età superiore ai 24 anni che nel corso degli ultimi 18 mesi si sia recato in gioielleria con l’intenzione di acquistare. Insomma, habitué. Certo, chissà se aver scelto chi frequenta già gioiellerie offre un quadro equilibrato.

In ogni caso, secondo l’indagine, chi acquisterà oggetti preziosi come dono natalizio è in aumento dal 10,8% all’ 11,2% dello scorso anno. E acquisterà soprattutto bracciali (50,1%), seguiti dagli orecchini (43,4%). Dato che chi è stato intervistato poteva offrire più di una risposta, seguono ciondoli (39%), collane e collier (36,2%). Sorpresa: gli anelli generici sono considerati solo dal 26,9%, seguiti da quelli di fidanzamento (13%), da spille (12,5%), gemelli e fermacravatte (11,1%).

Altro dato significativo: c’è una significativa crescita della fiducia nei confronti dei negozi online dei brand più affermati (dal 12,7% del 2016 all’attuale 20,2%) e in generale nei siti di e-commerce (dal 24,6% al 27%). In aumento anche la percentuale di chi si rivolgerà alle gioiellerie all’interno dei centri commerciali (da 48,8% al 52,5%) piuttosto che su strada (in calo dal 51,7% al 48,7%). L’81,9% degli intervistati ha dichiarato che acquisterà gioielli per i propri famigliari mentre il 29% lo farà per se stesso, e in tutti e due i casi la maggioranza è rappresentata dalle donne. Gli uomini, invece, risultano essere i principali acquirenti che doneranno i propri acquisti ad altri parenti (17,7%) e a conoscenti (1,6%). Proporzioni simili si registrano anche in direzione dei bijoux: 72,9% per i famigliari, 25,8% per sé e 23,5% per gli amici. L’oro resta il materiale preferito con il 22,7% delle scelte, seguito dal 17,7% della bigiotteria, il 14,1% raggiunto dall’argento e il 4,3% del platino. Infine, l 59,1% preferisce puntare su marchi molto conosciuti. Lavinia Andorno

Bracciale della collezione il Giardino di Vendorafa

Van Cleef & Arpels, bracciale in platino, oro, rubini e diamanti, 1959

Bracciale in oro spazzolato e lucidato con calcedonio intagliato — Maison Auclert, bracciale in oro spazzolato e lucidato con calcedonio intagliato

Bracciale Sos Alliance, in oro giallo e diamanti — Shamballa, bracciale Sos Alliance, in oro giallo e diamanti

Allison Lou, bracciale con charm ispirati al gioco del Monopoli. Prezzo: 3355 dollari

Fope, MiaLuce, bracciale in oro rosa con diamanti

(Italiano) In aumento le vendite di gioielli italiani

Published on July 13, 2017

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L’export italiano di oreficeria è in (quasi) generalizzata ripresa. Ma il Club degli Orafi manifesta anche qualche dubbio ♦︎

Un primo trimestre d’oro per l’oreficeria. A testimoniarlo sono i diretti interessati: il Club degli Orafi ha diffuso le cifre relative al periodo gennaio-marzo 2017, secondo i dati del World Gold Council. Pare in tutto il globo sia diffusa una febbre per anelli, collane e bracciali, anche se gli orafi definiscono la domanda mondiale di gioielleria in oro in «crescita modesta», condizionata anche dalla ripresa dei prezzi dell’oro, e limitata ad alcuni Paesi, lasciando i livelli inferiori rispetto alla media storica. Insomma, non certo euforia, a dispetto dei numeri: il settore orafo italiano ha registrato una crescita delle esportazioni in valore (+10,4%), con una ripresa significativa a Hong Kong (+23,1%), negli Stati Uniti (+31,4%), in Francia (+45,4%) ed in Turchia (+27,5%). In calo, invece, i valori venduti negli Emirati Arabi Uniti (-14,1%) e nel Regno Unito (-16,5%). La Svizzera, principale destinazione delle esportazioni italiane, evidenzia invece una sostanziale stabilità (-0,2%). Tra i territori, spicca il dato della provincia di Alessandria (distretto di Valenza Po), che ha registrato un incremento del 24,7%, con un forte sviluppo degli invii verso la Francia. Meno brillanti ma comunque in positivo le esportazioni di Arezzo (+4,9%) e Vicenza (+2,9%).

Bene, ma…

Non sembrerebbe un quadro così grigio. «Lo scenario internazionale del 2017 è sicuramente migliore rispetto al deludente 2016: non mancheranno, pertanto, per le imprese italiane dell’oreficeria le opportunità di crescita sui mercati esteri», è il commento di Stefania Trenti, della direzione Studi e Ricerche di Intesa Sanpaolo, banca a cui è affidato il compito dell’analisi. «Il contesto continuerà però ad essere caratterizzato da rischi, in particolare di natura politica: gli elevati livelli di incertezza, peraltro, dovrebbero continuare a sostenere le quotazioni dei preziosi».

Aprea: conta il marketing

Anche Gabriele Aprea, presidente del Club degli Orafi Italia, legge i dati con cauto ottimismo: «Sebbene il valore raggiunto dalle esportazioni della gioielleria italiana nel primo trimestre 2017 sia più rassicurante, il mercato mondiale sta vivendo una grande trasformazione. I dati diramati a maggio dall’agenzia Bloomberg indicano un significativo calo di fatturato da parte di alcuni dei gruppi più grandi a livello internazionale operanti nel settore della gioielleria classica. Al tempo stesso gruppi emergenti operanti nel campo della gioielleria entry-price in argento e/o metalli non preziosi, che appena 10 anni orsono apparivano di scarsissima rilevanza, hanno raggiunto dimensioni importanti in breve tempo, e continuano tuttora a crescere a ritmi significativi. I cambiamenti socio economico culturali in veloce evoluzione devono essere tempestivamente interpretati al fine di agganciare i consumatori più giovani e avvicinarli al mondo del gioiello, adeguando sia il prodotto, che le modalità di vendita e di comunicazione, al loro universo di valori. Su tali premesse, appare evidente che le strategie delle aziende orafe dovranno essere sempre più guidate dal marketing che dal mero gusto del bello e ben fatto. Le aziende della filiera, caratterizzate da una dimensione media molto ridotta (circa 25.000 per un totale di 75mila addetti, con una media di appena tre addetti per azienda) devono crescere almeno fino alla soglia necessaria per potersi strutturare in modo tale potersi assicurare le vitali attività di pianificazione, esecuzione e controllo. Il Club degli Orafi Italia è in prima linea con un ambizioso progetto formativo imprenditoriale e manageriale, anche di svecchiamento culturale, a sostegno delle piccole e medie imprese del gioiello per avviare percorsi di crescita e/o di aggregazione di imprese. Negli ultimi anni diverse imprese orafe italiane sono passate in mani straniere. È ora di rimboccarsi le maniche e farsi valere».

Italian Jewelery double faces

Published on April 12, 2017

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Sono stati 104.000 i buyer a Baselworld 2017

The Italian jewelry in 2016 had two faces: fall in exports, but more sales ♦
Jewels Italians a bit ‘less purchased abroad. The data from the Institute of Statistics (Istat) are about on production (-1.9%) and exports both in value (-4.6%) and in quantity (-1.8% only for jewelry precious metals). The figures for 2016 also indicate that the decline has a name, or rather two: China and India, where are decreased imports. But, in reality they were not the only countries to buy less. According to data compiled by the research center of the banking group Intesa Sanpaolo, the Italian exports of jewelery and jewelery lost about 300 million euro compared to 2015, with widespread declines in almost all markets and a major new decline to the United Arab Emirates (-15%, amounting to 160 million Euros less), country of entry for the rest of the Middle East and India. Negative also exports to Switzerland and France (-6.7% and -10.6%), where often the jewels Made in Italy are those made for third parties for large Maison, that is produced in Italy and sold under the brand name of the great signatures, and then for other markets and from Hong Kong (-9.1%).
The statistics on turnover (of companies with more than 20 employees), however, indicate that the jewelry industry and jewelery ended 2016 up 9.3%, thanks to brilliant results on the domestic market (+ 6.7%) of foreign ones (+ 10.7%), since in contradiction with the information about the export flows. How do you explain? Simple: the sector is made up of many micro enterprises and it is very difficult to safely monitor.

According Stefania Trenti, the Intesa Sanpaolo research center, “the 2016 results were affected by unfavorable global demand, particularly in the first half of the year. The international scenario has shown an improvement during the year and the expectations for 2017 are moderate acceleration of world GDP, with exports of jewelry and costume jewelry in the last quarter of last year have stopped the descent, a good sign that could implying a nearby turnaround, despite the climate of uncertainty the purchasing decisions of international jewelry.”
caption id=”attachment_44691″ align=”aligncenter” width=”709″] Gioielleria in Cina[/caption]

(Italiano) I 10 comandamenti degli orafi

Published on June 13, 2016

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Sorry, this entry is only available in Italian. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.

Di che colore è il domani degli orafi? Sarà d’oro oppure di piombo? Saranno schiavi del marketing? A Milano il Club degli Orafi ha organizzato una sorta di Stati Generali dell’oreficeria per cercare (forse) di comprenderlo. L’arduo compito è stato affidato a Enrico Finzi, presidente AstraRicerche. Secondo la sua analisi, la crisi ha causato una moria di negozi. Ma il lato buono della medaglia p che i sopravvissuti hanno una fetta potenziale di clienti maggiore. Dunque, che fare? Finzi si è lanciato nei dieci comandamenti per gli orefici, sul sacro altare del marketing. Eccoli.

Non bisogna distinguere più tra produttori e distributori: i destini sono sempre più strettamente legati, con imprese che scelgono i distributori come partner, e retailer che la piantono con l’ossessione di tenere di tutto un po’, ma imparano a vincere tenendo molto di meno brand. Addio ai numeri molto elevati di marche e piccole marche o, peggio, unbranded o mettendoci qualcosa a proprio nome, con una sorta di private label di qualità. Insomma, è indispensabile scegliere e bisogna immaginare la filiera non come una stretta partnership.
Il produttore deve individuare alcuni marchi o semi brand strategici per il marketing del suo prodotto (il distributore ha come oggetto il suo punto vendita, l’assortimento è strumentale rispetto alla sua attività). Devono scegliere partner commerciali che gli garantisca una presentazione adeguata dell’assortimento, mentre i retailer devono selezionare i fornitori e averne molto di pochi. Scegliere è una parola chiave per essere scelti, il modello Bata, dove c’è di tutto un po’, funziona per le calzature, ma non per le gioiellerie.
I produttori devono selezionare a loro volta i clienti paganti. Motivare i prodotti non solo quelli che si vendono da soli, appannaggio dei grandi marchi. Ci vogliono assortimenti selettivi meno ampi in numero di marche, ma più lunghi come prezzo. È poi visibili in vetrina per sconfiggere il web che offre accessibilità.
Vetrina di una gioielleria
La location: è il momento storico per cambiarla e renderla riconoscibile. L’arredamento non deve essere blindato per ragioni di sicurezza, perché si tengono fuori i giovani e i potenziali clienti si sentono intimiditi. E poi l’accessibilità serve a contrastare l’effetto web. Insomma il punto di vendita non deve essere respingente, deve essere macchina per comunicare e non solo per vendere. La visibilità anticipa le sensazioni della shopping experience. Nel settore della gioielleria il titolare e la commessa devono essere friendly. Gli interventi di illuminotecnica costano poco e la parola d’ordine è «scaldare l’ambiente».
I prezzi: varietà accessibilità dal basso ed estensione verso l’alto, anche dentro una marca. Gli sconti non devono essere generalizzati, ma selettivi e personalizzati. Bisogna fare il contrario delle profumerie.
I servizi: nel punto vendita devono essere più numerosi del passato. Bisogna usare lo strumento della prevendita, creare aspettative. Considerarlo come una semina.
Competenza nella vendita: è necessaria dopo anni di prodotti che si vendono da soli. La competenza deve essere assoluta, bisogna dedicare risorse alla formazione dei commessi e i produttori devono basare la scelta dei partner retailer anche in base a questo aspetto. Deve essere anche rassicurante per contrastare l’incertezza sul proprio patrimonio: l’acquisto di un gioiello implica una spesa in meno per il cliente. Bisogna assicurare che l’acquisto è un investimento.
La cultura sul gioiello: è diventato democratico, troppo, e c’è un impoverimento culturale della domanda. È difficile trasferire la cultura del gioiello, ma è fondamentale per rassicurare il cliente. Il punto di vendita rispetto al web ha il vantaggio di poter supportare e orientare la scelta del cliente con empatia su prodotti proposti come la cosa giusta, per quella persona (ma su questo obiettiamo: gioiellis.com fa cultura del gioiello). C’è il boom dell’auto-regalo femminile per superare un dolore o per gratificarsi, mentre gli uomini stanno perdendo il gusto di regalare un monile.
Il servizio post vendita, la riparazione, la rimessa a modello e altre iniziative puntano a mantenere il cliente con sconto personalizzato magari per il compleanno. Il prodotto deve essere personalizzato, il gioiello come quello della nonna rubato.
Infine, integrazione tra offline e online: il web è insostituibile per info e galleria prodotti e seduzione. Poi, si acquista in negozio con le persone. Infatti, il decimo comandamento parla di depressione collettiva di categoria e filiera dovuta ad anni troppo duri. Insomma, bisogna per supportare il marketing dell’inutile, che se funziona diventa il marketing della felicità, per dare un di più alla vita, che mira a trasmettere entusiasmo.
Gioielleria a Firenze

(Italiano) Aprea presidente del Club degli Orafi

Published on March 18, 2016

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Sorry, this entry is only available in Italian. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.

Il numero uno di Chantecler, Gabriele Aprea, diventa presidente del Club degli Orafi Italia. Il Club è una specie di pensatoio che riunisce i principali operatori della filiera dei gioielli. L’idea è quella di fare squadra, mentre all’estero i grandi gruppi fanno sentire una pressione sempre più forte. «Ci tengo molto anche ad allargare il dialogo con il dettaglio, che molto ha sofferto in questi anni di difficile congiuntura economica», è il commento di Aprea. «Con la sua specificità di grande diffusione territoriale rappresenta un patrimonio da valorizzare per la sua storia unica di servizio e attenzione al cliente imparagonabile che va preservato e riproposto anche ai giovani come un’occasione di possibile impiego e sviluppo professionale. Soltanto nell’incontro nella filiera e nelle alleanze tra i diversi attori attraverso momenti di acculturamento imprenditoriale e manageriale, di scambio e di servizi ci possono essere occasioni di crescita reciproca in un mondo sempre più sfidante. Inoltre, la lunga collaborazione con la Direzione Studi e Ricerche di Intesa San Paolo permette al Club di avere un ruolo di protagonista per le informazioni del settore».

Il settore orafo ha registrato nel 2015 un miglioramento nel fatturato (+3,8) rispetto all’anno precedente. La spinta è arrivata, ancora una volta, dai mercati esteri con un incremento dell’8,8 % Nel 2015, le esportazioni hanno registrato un andamento favorevole verso la Svizzera (+12,9%), tornata al primo posto tra gli sbocchi commerciali, Hong Kong (+12,9%), Stati Uniti (+10,4%) e Francia (+37,2%), dove spiccano, in particolare, i flussi di gioielli originati dalla provincia di Alessandria. Continua invece il rallentamento delle vendite verso gli Emirati Arabi Uniti (-10,8%).

Le prospettive per il 2016, secondo Stefania Trenti, economista della Direzione Studi e Ricerche di Intesa Sanpaolo, «appaiono molto simili a quanto già visto nella seconda metà del 2015: la domanda interna dei paesi più maturi appare infatti solida mentre maggiori sono le incertezze per le economie dei paesi emergenti, in particolare i produttori di materie prime energetiche, forti acquirenti di gioielli made in Italy negli scorsi anni».