acquamarina Archives | gioiellis.com

Gold and stones, De’ Lazzari’s successful marriage

Published on April 13, 2024

Collana con tormalina, prasiolite, ametista, peridoto. Copyright: gioiellis.com

De’ Lazzari Oro Addosso, the story continues with new jewels. ︎

After 40 years, the yellow metal continues to be at the center of De Lazzari Oro Addosso (means worn gold). The brand was founded in 1982 in Casale Monferrato (Alessandria), in the gold district of Valenza, and has never ceased to represent that type of jewelery that manages to combine a high, but not unattainable, level. In short, a quality compromise between fine jewelery and what is really possible to buy. The brand has thus managed to pass unscathed through fashions thanks to its transformation into an accessory that can always be worn, not only on special occasions, and winks at the world of fashion. And, precisely for this reason, experienced as a dress that can be changed lightly.

Anelli in oro, con prasiolite e due acquamarina — Gold rings, with prasiolite and two aquamarines. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Gold and large colored stones are used alongside traditional diamonds.

Lina and Vittorio De Lazzari, therefore, continue on their path, with jewels with precise but also soft geometries, ready to be re-proposed in a different way season after season, mostly sold on international markets. Gold, diamonds, but also colored stones are the classic elements reworked according to the Maison’s own style, which brings with it a bit of the Eighties, as evidenced by the latest pieces offered.

Anelli in oro con prasiolite e acquamarina — Gold rings with prasiolite and aquamarine. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Oro Addosso, collana con tormalina, prasiolite, ametista, peridoto. Copyright: gioiellis.com — Oro Addosso, necklace with tourmaline, prasiolite, amethyst, peridot. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Orecchini a cerchio in oro bianco e diamanti — Hoop earrings in white gold and diamonds

Anello in oro bianco con ametista e diamanti — White gold ring with amethyst and diamonds

Anello in oro rosa, diamanti e tormalina di 10,25 carati — Ring in rose gold, diamonds and tourmaline of 10.25 carats

Aquamarine at x-ray

Published on March 3, 2024

All you need to know about one of the gems most loved by jewelry: the aquamarine, which is also the stone of the month of March ♦

The aquamarine is one of the stones most used in jewelry. Major brands of jewelry have included it in their collections. Yet it is little known by the general public that ignores the quality and, above all, the features.

Anello Lyla's Bow con diamanti acquamarina brasiliana — Vania Leles, Lyla’s Bow ring with Brazilian aquamarine diamonds

Identikit. Transparent and crystalline: not by chance is called aquamarine that glitter even under lowlight conditions. A quality that makes it a “star” of fine jewelry. Like emerald, is a stone that belongs to the beryl family. The structure, however, is very different from the green gem: the iron impurities inside give that deep azure blue color, while chromium and vanadium tinged with green emerald. Almost always, the aquamarine is without inclusions: whether appear the star effect or the one called cat eyes it becomes invaluable. Its hardness allows jewelers to experiment with innovative cuts and, in fact, has been used for the Color du Temps necklace from the Peau d’âne collection by Van Cleef & Arpels, for the jewelry designed by Tiffany in the movie The Great Gatsby, for the Bulgari Serpente bought by Justin Bieber during the charity auction at Cannes Film Festival.

Pomellato, bracciale Pom Pom in oro rosa e argento con 729 acquamarina taglio brillante per un totale di oltre 17 carati — Pomellato, Pom Pom bracelet in rose gold and silver with 729 brilliant cut aquamarine for a total of over 17 carats

Color. the range of colors of aquamarine is very narrow: blue, slightly greenish blue, greenish blue, blue-green, blue. The rarest shades are dark blue and slightly greenish blue. In general, the more intense is blue, greater is the stone value: that’s why the most common ones tend to light green.

Acquamarina allo stato naturale — Aquamarine in its natural state

Treatment. Aquamarine is a mineral that is almost always the subject of a treatment to make it more pleasant. Much of the aquamarine in its natural state, in fact, has a blue-green color. For this reason the stone is heated to a rather high temperature. This process can remove the greenish color from the material and transform the hue of the stone into a pleasant deep blue. So if they tell you that an aquamarine is absolutely natural you do not have to believe it. But this does not mean that the result can’t be appreciated.

Anello con acquamarina taglio cuscino, lato superiore . Titanio blu, acquamarina, zaffiri, quarzo capelvenere — Lydia Courteille, ring with cushion cut aquamarine, upper side. Blue titanium, aquamarine, sapphires, maidenhair quartz

Provenance. The best known reserves of aquamarine are those in Minas Gerais, whose buds have a distinctive deep blue color. Always in Brazil there is the Santa Maria de Itabira mine with deep blue, stones which are a favorite choice of gemologists. Other deposits are exploited on an industrial scale in the Urals, Nigeria, Madagascar, Mozambique and Pakistan. As a rule, the color is saturated if weigh more than 5 carats, while the smaller stones are lighter, with the exception of some specimens from Madagascar, known for a very strong hues even if under 5 carats. That’s why it costs more compared to other stones of the same color, but as higher dimensions.

Sanalitro, anello con acquamarina e diamanti — Sanalitro, ring with aquamarine and diamonds

Schlumberger per Tiffany & Co. orecchini Seven Leaves con due aquamarine oval per un totale di 14,89 carati e diamanti taglio brillante — Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Seven Leaves earrings with two oval aquamarines for a total of 14.89 carats and brilliant-cut diamonds

Orecchini in oro bianco, alluminio, argento, acquamarina — Hemmerle, earrings in white gold, aluminium, silver, aquamarine

Spilla con acquamarina, oro bianco, diamanti — Naomi Sarna, brooch with aquamarine, white gold, diamonds

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina — Mirco Visconti, ring in white gold, diamonds and aquamarine

Orecchini Trilliant, con oro bianco, diamanti e acquamarina — Fadoua Hueb, Trilliant earrings, with white gold, diamonds and aquamarine

Fraleoni, anello con acquamarina — Fraleoni, ring with aquamarine

How much is your stone worth?

Published on July 30, 2023

Campus

How much are the stones in your jewels worth?

Raise your hand if you don’t have at least one jewel with colored gems and have never wondered how much that stone is really worth. Amethyst or ruby, emerald or citrine, sapphire or moonstone: there are not only diamonds. But how much are colored stones worth? How much is a ruby worth? Or an emerald? Or, again, aquamarine? If you want to know how much the gem you have set on the ring is worth, or in a necklace, earrings or bracelet, read here. We try to explain in a simple way what are the characteristics that determine the value of a colored stone.

Filippo G&G, pietra ametista e di diverso tipo — Filippo G&G, gems of different types

Of course, there is immediately a fairly obvious aspect: in general, the value is determined by how rare a gem is. A ruby, always in principle, has a higher value than a simple citrine quartz. But this is only a starting point. In fact, it is not said that in reality this is the case. Let’s see, instead, what are the criteria that guide the evaluation of a precious or semi-precious stone.

Anelli con pietra di colore by Bulgari — Bulgari gemstone rings

The starting point is that the value of a colored stone depends on several factors, not just one. Hence, the estimated price doesn’t just depend on the weight and volume of a stone. So, as we said, it is not even the type of stone that determines its absolute value. If you have a ring with a sapphire, it is likely to have a value greater than that of a moonstone. Probable, but certainly not. For example, diamonds are also used in industry, since they are the hardest material that exists. And, of course, the diamonds used to cut ceramic tiles are not of the same quality as those found in jewelry. This is to make it clear that the same type of mineral can have very different qualities.

Orecchini in oro, diamanti, gemme colorate — Earrings in gold, diamonds, colored gems

The 4C
As with diamonds, precious colored and semi-precious stones are also valued for the classic 4C: color, clarity, cut (in English cut) and carat weight (which also determines the size). But among these 4C the first is the most important: the color. Of course, let’s talk about colored stones.

Gemme per Liaison de Couleurs — Paul Wild, gems for Liaison de Couleurs

Color
For precious (emerald, ruby and sapphire) or semi-precious (all others) colored stones, the color is assessed with three different criteria: hue (name of color), tone (darkness and brightness) and saturation (vividness) . The relationship between hue, tone and saturation is the most important aspect for evaluating a colored stone. This is why emeralds (or rubies, sapphires, etc.) are not all the same. In general, when a gem has a more saturated color it will also be darker. To obtain a more saturated color, the stones are often subjected to particular processes: for example, they are subjected to intense heat, radiation, or treated with chemicals (not harmful). Natural stones, untreated, have a higher value, obviously with the same appearance and weight.
But if you want to observe what the exact color of your stone is, pay attention to the light source: a light bulb that illuminates with yellow hue, for example, can make your stone appear in a different shade than the natural one.

The duPont Emerald, anello con smeraldo colombiano di 9,11 carati — The duPont Emerald, ring with a 9.11-carat Colombian emerald

Clarity
Usually the stones, some in particular such as emerald, are not as clear as a glass crystal. Clarity measures the degree of internal or surface transparency. Inside the stones there may be inclusions, that is, small imperfections, traces of other minerals that can determine their value. Usually, the fewer inclusions there are, the more the gem has value. But, be careful: if they offer you an absolutely clear emerald, look at it with suspicion. It could be synthetic. In contrast, amethysts are generally free of inclusions. Other stones, on the other hand, are appreciated precisely for their inclusions: for example, the cat’s eye. Or the star sapphire, which has that particular reflection precisely because it has a rather rare inclusion.

Zaffiri e rubino — Blue, pink, yellow and ruby sapphires

Carats (weight)
Size matters. Of course, the color is important, but if the gem is tiny … The weight of the colored stones is indicated in carats. Yes, but what is it equivalent to? Quickly said: a carat is about a fifth of an gram. A gem with higher carats will generally cost more than another smaller, if the quality is equivalent. But the proportion is very different: amethysts are also found in relevant sizes, even over 100 carats and, therefore, the difference between different sizes and weight is relative. Large rubies, on the other hand, are very rare: in proportion, their value with respect to weight will increase more than that of amethyst.

Anello in oro bianco con acquamarina taglio ovale e diamanti — Paolo Costagli, white gold ring with an oval cut aquamarine and diamonds

Cutting
It is not easy for anyone who is not a gemologist to judge whether the cutting of a stone is correct. But you have to know that in evaluating a gem it also matters how it was cut. The light, in fact, will be better reflected and will make a well cut stone brighter. Proportions, symmetry and polishing are the main aspects. On the price of a gem, however, its shape has less influence, if it is one of the classic cuts used, such as brilliant, emerald, shuttles, etc. A good cut can enhance the nuances of a colored gem. An imperfect cut can, on the contrary, depress its beauty. And do not think that the cut is a simple operation performed automatically: each stone is different from the other and a cut that is good for one may not be suitable for a similar one, but not the same.

Anello con rubino birmano a forma di cuscino, di Harry Winston. — Burmese Ruby Cushion Ring by Harry Winston

The country of origin
Last thing to consider: the stone passport matters. There are mines that have a better reputation and average quality than others. And, therefore, in evaluating the stones it is also important to know what the origin is. Burmese rubies are more valuable. The emeralds of Colombia are the most requested, followed by those of Zambia. The now unavailable blue sapphires of Kashmir are the most sought after.

Bracciale con ametista, rubini birmani e diamanti su argento e oro — Bracelet with amethyst, Burmese rubies and diamonds on silver and gold

Citrino con taglio StarBrite da 29,96 carati di John Dyer & Co — 29.96 Carat StarBrite Cut Citrine by John Dyer & Co

Anello della collezione Aristocrat, in oro bianco e diamanti, alessandrite taglio brillante — Ring from the Aristocrat collection, in white gold and diamonds, brilliant cut alexandrite

Orecchini in oro bianco, topazio e diamanti — Tamara Comolli, earrings in white gold, topaz and diamonds

Anello con zaffiro star di Ceylon su ceramica orange e grigia — Ring with Ceylon star sapphire on orange and gray ceramic

Anello con zaffiro del Kashmir e diamanti — Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring

Gems and striped gold for Buccellati’s Macri Color collection

Published on March 25, 2023

Showroom

Anello in oro giallo con spessartite e diamanti

Renewing tradition, departing from tradition or forgetting tradition? The choice of Buccellati, an Italian brand that has passed under the insignia of the Richemont group, is the first. This does not mean that there is no shortage of novelties, starting with the distribution choices of the Maison. For example, the new Macri Color collection was presented with pieces available exclusively on the American market. In short, it is not a new stylistic idea, but simply a commercial strategy. Given this, the collection aims to combine the embroideries and gold engravings typical of the Milanese brand, with the colors of large gems.

Anello in oro bianco e giallo con ametista

The traditional iridescent effect of the gold surface remains, which is the result of the striped engraving work, but to this are added large amethysts, spessartite, milky aquamarine, moonstone, lavender jade. All with the addition of diamonds in a radial pattern, around the semi-precious stone in the center of rings, earrings or pendants for necklaces.

Anello in oro giallo con acquamarina milky e diamanti

Anello in oro bianco con tanzanite e diamanti

Orecchini in oro bianco con ametista e diamanti

Orecchini in oro bianco con giada lavanda e diamanti

Orecchini in oro giallo e bianco con pietra di luna e diamanti

Comets of aquamarine

Published on July 16, 2022

Rings/Showroom/COLLANE

Anello con acquamarina taglio antico di 3,75 carati su oro bianco e diamanti

Summer and the sea are a de facto couple. And the aquamarine goes perfectly with this season, even if it certainly doesn’t clash at other times of the year. In any case, Comete Gioielli offers a line dedicated to aquamarine that can combine a classic style reserved for special moments in life with more informal clothing. Aquamarine, in fact, is a stone that adapts well to all occasions. The jewels proposed by Comete from the Aquamarine Fantasia collection also have another peculiarity: the stones use the so-called antique cut.

In jewelry, the stones classified with this particular method of processing are usually diamonds that have a smoothing of the corners and edges. The aquamarine stones used in the collection therefore have a so-called cushion shape, square and soft at the same time. The stones are set in 18-karat white gold and surrounded by small G-colored diamonds. The jewels in the collection include rings, necklaces with pendants and earrings.

Girocollo in oro bianco, acquamarina e diamanti

Anello con acquamarina, oro bianco e diamanti

Orecchini pendenti in oro bianco, acquamarina e diamanti

Orecchini a bottone in oro bianco, acquamarina e diamanti

Why precious stones are heated?

Published on December 26, 2021

Campus

Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms

Precious and semi-precious stones in the great majority are heated at high temperatures. Or subjected to radiation. That’s why ♦

If the precious stones warm your heart is perhaps because in turn have been heated. Not from your eyes, but from an electric furnace which can reach 1,600 degrees. The thermal treatment of precious and semiprecious stones is known to jewelers and gemologists, but little known to the general public, that is, those who buy jewelry that flaunt jewels of deep red, deep blue sapphires, aquamarines transparent. In fact, the colored stones that are sold as natural are a small minority, most end up in the oven, without the intervention of a chef. We see, then, what is the heat treatment of gemstones.

Un sacchetto di rubini estratti in una miniera birmana

Warm color
The stones are heated above all to bring out the colors. During treatment the stone is heated to very high temperatures (up to about 1600 degrees Celsius). At this temperature the inclusions (small amounts of other minerals) present in the stone melt and add their own color to the stone. Usually, therefore, the heated stone becomes darker, of a more intense hue. This is the case, for example, of rutile in the blue sapphires. There are also sapphires, known as Gouda, which are extracted from the ground milk and white sapphires turn blue when heated. Even the rubies are almost always heated (except exceptions): with the heat the aluminum oxide in the stone creates a new crystalline structure and the chromium is combined in a different way, allowing a better shade of red. Another effect of the heat is that it can improve the transparency of the stone, thanks to the destruction of any gas or fluid inclusions.

I rubini sono stati messi in un recipiente al centro del fuoco, dove vengono riscaldati

How to find them
Do you have a ring with a natural stone or heated? The question should be: what does it matter? But if you are curious to know, you must contact a gemologist with a microscope. And even so will not be easy to find out. The gemologists, however, can examine the internal state of the stone, inclusions, and look for signs of heat treatment. In general, if the stone is perfect or has exceptional value, or has been treated.
What stones are heated
Here the stones more easily end up in the oven: amethyst, citrine, ametrine, aquamarine, tourmaline, topaz, sapphire, ruby, tanzanite, blue zircon.

A sinistra, una tanzanite prima di essere riscaldata. A destra, la tanzanite dopo il trattamento con il calore

Irradiation

In addition to being heated, precious and semi-precious stones can be subjected to radiation. The question is: are they dangerous then? No, no problem: they are under strict control, just like when you go to the hospital for a chest screen. And, in any case, before leaving the laboratory the stones are checked to ensure that they do not emit dangerous radiation. After all, many gems are naturally subjected to radiation when underground. The irradiation that takes place in the laboratory serves to strengthen or change the color. A stone often subjected to radiation is blue topaz, which in nature is found with a very light shade. Often the two treatments, the thermal and the radioactive one, are combined: each one manages to improve a different aspect of the stone.

A sinistra, un rubino naturale. A destra il rubino dopo essere stato riscaldato

rubino non trattato e1544889019119 — Un rubino non trattato: notare le inclusioni e la luce irregolare

Nanis is tinged with Azure

Published on October 31, 2021

COLLANE/Showroom/Rings

Anello in oro giallo 18 carati, topazio blue London e diamanti bianchi. L'anello è realizzato a mano con la tecnica del bulino millerighe

New pieces from the Dancing in the rain Azure collection by Nanis.

The elements of water and sky are a constant in the work of Laura Bicego, the creative founder of the Nanis brand, a Maison that turns 30 this year. One of Nanis’ most successful collections, for example, is Dancing in the Rain, which combines the concept of water with that of the sky. Now, always linked to that collection, here is Azure, the new line where shades of more or less intense blue recall the depths of the ocean, but also of a clear sky. The collection is in turn divided into two lines: the first includes 18-karat gold jewels in which oval spheres of milky aquamarine appear. The second, on the other hand, uses Blue London topaz.

Pendente con boule d'oro e acquamarina milky — Pendente con boule d’oro e acquamarina milky

The jewels are also enriched with lines of small diamonds, which connect the gems with the gold boule, made with the classic process that is a trademark of the brand: they are engraved by hand with the burin technique. The collection includes symmetrical jewels for the two lines, with long necklaces with pendants, earrings and rings, also in the version with bands.

Orecchini con topazio blu di diverse tonalità

Orecchini in oro giallo, topazio blu e diamanti

Anello in oro, diamanti e acquamarina milky

The maxi aquamarine of Sanalitro

Published on March 15, 2021

Rings/Showroom

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Milanese jeweler Massimo Sanalitro loves make it big. He started as a teenager learning the secrets of gem cutting in Bologna. Then, he moved to Milan, where he worked with jewelers such as Buccellati and Angela Pintaldi. Finally, he went on his own and founded his Maison. But, in fact, to go big: in particular the jeweler is famous for his cocktail rings generously enriched with stones, often in a maxi format. A fame that has brought him to international markets: he has worked for the Russian designer Valentin Yudashkin and, sporadically, for creators such as Armani, Cavalli, Donna Karan, as well as passing through the windows of Bergdorf & Goodman, in New York.

Over time, the designer has not changed his habits and, every now and then, he surprises everyone with exceptional pieces. For example, this super ring with a 76.72 carat maxi aquamarine, covering three fingers of the hand, mounted on 18 carat white gold. However, the jewel weighs just over 30 grams and it is possible to wear it without problems. In addition, four diamonds are set on the prongs. Another recent and remarkable piece is a ring with a large emerald of 33.95 carats, set in a retro-flavored set, with gold and small diamonds.

Anello in oro con tormalina pesca e topazio fumé con due diamanti grezzi

Anello in oro con acquamarina, quarzo fumé, diamanti

Julius Cohen, music in New York

Published on October 2, 2020

Showroom/bracciale

Bracciale in oro giallo, diamanti e peridoto

Julius Cohen, a famous Maison of New York directed by the most creative of creative directors.

It is among the most renowned design studios of jewelry in America. Based in New York, Julius Cohen started with designing jewelry directly to individual private clients. In short, particularly valuable jewelry made for a relatively limited group of fans and well-heeled customers. The founder Julius Cohen, began his career in 1929 when he was 16, for Oscar Heyman & Bros., jewelry company owned by his uncles. There he learned the basics of the trade. He then improves with Harry Winston, another name of New York luxury élite.

Orecchini in platino con acquamarina intagliata

In 1956, now an industry expert, has founded its Maison for a select audience of wealthy clients.

One new feature that was introduced is customer service even at home or in the office. For those who are very busy is a nice convenience the jeweler who comes to you at home or at work. Julius Cohen died in 1995, the Maison was continued by his son in law, Leslie Steinweiss, who had joined in 1975 as creative director. And it is not only creative in designing jewelry: Leslie is also a pianist, composer and lyricist. Although the collections that he has designed do not need further poetry. Giulia Netrese

Collana di diamanti Julius Cohen degli anni 60 — Collana in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti

Collana in oro giallo 18 carati con rubino

Anello in oro giallo 22 carati con rubino

New Dancing in the Rain for Nanis

Published on September 26, 2019

COLLANE/bracciale/Rings

Collezione Dancing in the Rain Aquamarine, collana indossata

Nanis’ new Dancing in the Rain Aquamarine collection: gold bubbles and gems ♦ ︎

Laura Bicego’s dance in the rain is like a propitiatory rite capable of arousing new stimuli, new fantasies and, last but not least, new collections. Dancing in the Rain, that is a historical collection of the Veneto brand Nanis, over time has become a dance in dance, with a continuous series of variations (or steps, if you prefer) around the same music: gold balls patiently scratched to make the surface pleasantly and minutely irregular, together with materials that alternate from a line of jewels to another.

One of the two novelties presented by Nanis at VicenzaOro september is called, in fact, Dancing in the Rain Aquamarine collection. In this case the spheres that alternate with gold are of light blue stone. But of a specially translucent variety, which perfectly matches the gold which has a vaguely satin effect. On the edge of a piece of jewelry, small diamonds are also lined up which add light and reflections. The dance continues.

Orecchini in oro, acquamarina e diamanti

Bracciale in oro, acquamarina e diamanti

Anelli della collezione Dancing in the Rain di Nanis

Collana in oro e acquamarina della collezione Dancing in the Rain

The colorful carnival of Vianna

Published on September 3, 2019

Showroom/Rings

Tiara in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e ametiste di diverse sfumature

Gems, colors, surprising combinations: these are the recipe of Vianna Brasil, a Maison that follows carioca’s taste even if it has the flagship store in Florida, in Boca Raton ♦

If you like the gems then you will be attracted by Vianna Brasil: write down if you do not know this name, because it is almost synonymous with precious stones. Most of gold and precious stones in Brazil were found, and I still am, in an area that today constitutes the State of Minas Gerais, words that are in Portuguese means “General Mines”. In this state, four generations ago, the family Vianna started its activities. In short Vianna has become the most specialized manufacturer in Brazil for jewelry with colored stones. The results are collections as expected from a Brazilian jeweler and more experienced in the use of gems: the geometric shapes and color combinations, sometimes surprising but, above all, bright as the famous Brazilian carnival.

To realize the jewelery, the brand uses a combination of traditional cuts with the exclusive ones: it boasts of being the only company in Brazil with its cutting system, something that allows a higher quality control. The stones used: quartz, blue topaz, amethyst, citrine, green and pink tourmalines, Paraiba tourmaline, morganite, aquamarine, imperial topaz… Matilde de Bounvilles

Orecchini a cerchio con quarzo fumé e nero

Collezione Malabaris: braccialetto in oro con rodolite, amtesita rosa e quarzo

Collana in oro con quarzo fumé, nero e diamanti

Collezione Pierrot: anelli in oro con ametista rosa, praziolite, quarzo e diamanti — Collezione Pierrot: anelli in oro con ametista rosa, prasiolite, quarzo e diamanti

Lydia Courteille: the dark side of Marie Antoinette

Published on February 10, 2019

news

Grande anello in titanio, acquamarina, zaffiri

The large collection of high jewelery by Lydia Courteille: is inspired by Marie Antoinette. Even at its dark side ♦ ︎

Lydia Courteille is a famous, appreciated, irreplaceable jewelry maker. Indeed, collections of fine jewelry. With a particularity: its collections are often a travel diary in exotic places like the Topkapi of Istanbul, Guatemala, the Sahara. But this time the journey of Lydia Courteille is more difficult, full of pitfalls and traps. It is a journey through time. Or rather, it’s a journey through the History, with a capital letter.
Her new collection, in fact, is inspired by the last Empress of France, Marie Antoinette. A historical figure who, among other things, returned to the spotlight a few months ago, when Sotheby’s sold some jewels that belonged to the queen. This was enough for a nostalgia operation, with the sentimental rehabilitation of the sovereign dead under the guillotine of the French Revolution.

Lydia Courteille, however, is not content with a dusting at the image of Marie Antoinette. The designer has focused on the personality, the story, even the dark side, of the queen.

Orecchini della collezione Marie Antoinette Dark Side di Lydia Courteille. Oro, diamanti, acquamarina

Among charms, seduction, the unpopularity that led her to the gallows, Marie Antoinette was nevertheless a character that also marked the history of the costume. With choices that are reflected in the Lydia Courteille high jewelery collection. The jewels use, for example, a palette of colors inspired by the life of the Archduchess: from a soft blue aquamarine to royal gold. But even with the dark side “almost Gothic” the designer defines it. The materials used are also blue titanium, blue and yellow sapphires, and Rutilated Quartz (Venus hair).
Upon arrival at Versailles, in May 1770, the young Archduchess Marie Antoinette discovered a life of court very different from the Austrian simplicity to which she was accustomed. The label and the ceremonies of the Grand Lever and the Coucher or, even more difficult for her, the Grand Couvert, that is the dinner in public. In comparison, today’s strict rules for the British royal family seem a life of unruliness.

In her journey through history, Lydia Courteille revisits the life and habits of the Queen of France.

For example, the dances with her friends or in-laws, the presence at masked balls at the Opera, considered inappropriate for a queen, and even during Carnival. She also loved games: she played Pharaoh until two or three in the morning. Not to mention the crazy expenses for receptions and trips. Also known is her passion for jewelry, with the affair of the stolen diamond necklace: a myth that has helped make her unpopular to her fellow citizens. Another dark side: the annual budget for the queen’s clothes was disproportionate and, moreover, punctually surpassed the forecasts. And this while the population and even the middle class of the population suffered from the crisis. In short, the other side of wealth, which does not however cancel the virtuosity in the decorations and the refinement of court taste. The end of the story, however, seems the conclusion of an inevitable path: October 15, 1793 the Archduchess was condemned to death because of high treason. She was guillotined on October 16th at 12.15.

Anello della collezione Marie Antoinette Dark Side. Titanio blu, acquamarina, zaffiri, quarzo capelvenere

Collana con il simbolo della monarchia, il giglio di Francia

Orecchini pendenti con Yellow Gold 18k, Bleu Titane , Aquamarine, Sapphires, Yellow Sapphires, Quartz cheveux de Vénus

Lydia Courteille. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Earrings with Yellow Gold 18k, Bleu Titane , Aquamarine, Sapphires, Yellow Sapphires, Quartz cheveux de Vénus

Orecchini con i simboli del potere regale

Orecchini pendentidella collezione Marie Antoinette Dark Side

Orecchini ispirati all'arpa, strumento caro alla regina — Orecchini ispirati all’arpa, strumento caro alla regina

Nanis, lightness on the wrist

Published on November 6, 2017

bracciale/Showroom

Nanis Bangle Lovers: simple yellow gold bracelets with light blue, pink or white stones ♦ ︎
About Nanis’s Dancing in the Rain we have already talked about (see also: Nanis dances still in the rain). But with the same shape-effect the Maison created by Laura Bicego has presented to VicenzaOro also a series of bracelets that can be worn individually or stacked together. Scratched Yellow Gold Bangles, as tradition of Nanis, with stones like opal, aquamarine, moonstone, or diamond pavé. The stones are cut to cabochon, and held by four small griffes at the end of the jewel. The bracelets are very thin and also very light, easy to wear because of the open shape: no clips or locks, in short. They are jewels specifically designed to make a simple gift at some special occasion, at an affordable price. Margherita Donato

Dancing in the rain, bracciale in oro e pavé di diamanti

Nanis, bracciale in oro e pavé di diamanti

Nanis BS4 587 Dancing in the rain bracelet 18ktgold diamonds acquamarine — Nanis, bracciale in oro e acquamarina coninserti di diamanti

Dancing in the rain, bracciale in oro e diamanti

New dance in the rain for Nanis

Published on October 23, 2017

Showroom

Anello con acquamarina della collezione Dancing in the Rain

Nanis renews the Dancing in the Rain collection: gold with opal, aquamarine and diamonds ♦ ︎
The rain dance continues. To dance or, better, to push to dance to those who love her design, is Laura Bicego, designer and soul of Nanis. The Venetian Maison, which has recently landed with great success in Great Britain, extends the Dancing in the Rain collection. There is no need to listen the tip-tap of Gene Kelly on Lennie Hayton’s notes to appreciate the continuous renewal of one of Nanis’s most loved collections. Along with the classic oval yellow or white gold hand-scratched elements, Nanis proposes aquamarine and pink opal with diamond pavé. The design, of course, remains the original one in the collection, which rotates around the geometric shape of the oval. But the combination of colors and, above all, diamond surfaces make the whole new.

Collana con pendente della collezione Dancing in the Rain

Nanis, anello in oro con pavé di diamanti

Collane con pendente della collezione Dancing in the Rain

Collane della collezione Dancing in the Rain

Praise to the nature of Mikimoto

Published on September 2, 2017

Showroom

Collana Praise to Nature: oro bianco 18K, perla coltivata in mare, perla Akoya, acquamarina, berillo, zaffiro, diamanti

Nature and sea, here is the high jewelery of Mikimoto ♦ ︎
Praise to Nature: this is the name of the new jewelery necklace of Mikimoto. Great name of Japanese jewelery, Mikimoto has a long history and a long tradition. It was founded in 1893 by Kokichi Mikimoto, who successfully created the method of cultivation pearls. In addition to the pearl manufacturing technique, Mikimoto is also famous for its jewelery creations. And a particular sensitivity is testified with the high jewelery. Nature, on the other hand, is one of the themes that always inspired Japanese culture: the Praise to Nature necklace adds to the other unique pieces an idea of the sea. It consists of an extraordinary set of pearls, sapphires, diamonds and an incredibly rare 54-carat aquamarine. The stones and pearls are mounted on 18-karat white gold. But it’s not the only great piece of jewelery dedicated to the sea, as the ocean-inspired pendant shows, with precious stones partially hidden in an imaginative frame of corals embellished with diamonds, opals and pearls. Lavinia Andorno

Mikimoto, alta gioielleria: anello in platino, rubino, zaffiro, granato, alexandrite, diamante

Collana in oro bianco 18K perle Akoya, perla bianca South Sea, tanzanite, tormalina, diamanti

Pendente in oro bianco 18 carati, perla marina, South Sea, opale, spinello, tormalina, diamante

Bulgari Vipers

Published on July 4, 2017

Showroom

Bulgari, anelli Viper, oro rosa e diamanti

Bulgari Serpenti with new gorgeous Vipers ♦ ︎
The Bulgari’s Serpenti collection does not need any presentations: it is one of the most famous jewelery lines in the world. Constantly the Roman Maison passed under the insignia of the Lvmh Group renews its Snakes by introducing new variants (see also: New Serpents for Bulgari). Now, starting with the Asian markets, Maison has introduced new pieces of Serpenti collection inspired by the designs of the Seventies: some jewels, such as rings, also refer to a well-defined snake, viper and have a aggressive design. Necklace, earrings and bracelet are composed by a modular element.
Snake scales are as always in gold, white or pink, with diamonds and diamonds. At the center of each of these snakes there are colored stones, such as rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite and aquamarine. The amethyst, for example, has been cut into a geometry that enhances the facet, transparency and color intensity. Rubellite, tanzanite and aquamarine are cut in pear shape, similar to a drop of water. Lavinia Andorno

Collana Serpenti in oro bianco e rubellite

Collana Serpenti in oro rosa, 13 tormaline rosa, diamanti per 7,96 carati

Bulgari, anelli Viper, oro bianco e diamanti

The Paradise lightblue by Marco Bicego

Published on March 19, 2017

Showroom

The Paradise of Marco Bicego is expanding with aquamarines of Africa and Brazil.
Marco Bicego scale even the steps leading to Paradise. But, in this case, the Paradise is on the Earth, the sea. Or, better, the Mare Nostrum, as the ancient Romans called it, ie the Mediterranean. From these two concepts: that is, the Paradise collection, which is one of the flagships of the Venetian designer, and the charm of the waves lapping on Italy, comes the new line christened at Baselworld 2017, Paradise Aquamarine.

The yellow gold, as in the other lines of the collection, is used in thin braids that unite the stones, in this case in unique shades of blue, but with different shades. The aquamarine used, in fact, comes both from Brazil and Africa and has subtle differences. More particularly: the stones have a specific facet by tabeez cutting (that is, similar to a pear cut, but more rounded), and the milky effect makes variable the aesthetic effect, with different shades between a aquamarine and the other. Lavinia Andorno

Marco Bicego, collezione Peradise Acquamarina

Collana a un filo collezione Paradise Acquamarina

Collana a tre fili della collezione Paradise Acquamarina

Nanis, colors from Ipanema

Published on September 8, 2016

Showroom

La texture del bracciale Ipanema in oro lavorato a mano, acquamarina, amazzonite, quarzo rutilato

The new Ipanema colors in the renewed collection designed by Nanis.
The name Ipanema, evokes different patterns: the endless beach of Rio de Janeiro, tropical atmospheres, tanned bodies and the liveliness of the tropics. But, for those who love the jewelry, Ipanema also evokes the collection signed Nanis, a Venetian Maison that knows how to interpret the art of jewelry with the evocative pleasure of collections capable of transporting the mind elsewhere. On the other hand, is not the only technique cold goldsmith to attribute value to a gem, but also what it can evoke. And the case of Ipanema, a collection that can enjoy you even in a winter Monday. The pieces are made in 18k gold, diamonds and natural stones. In particular, the latest additions to the line include compositions that combine aquamarine, amazonite (what better stone to Ipanema?), Rutile quartz. The pieces with this setting are in addition to the others of the line. An idea of prices: the Ipanema bracelet with these stones costs around 14,500 Euros.

Anello Ipanema con acquamarina, diamanti ed elementi in oro lavorati a mano

Anello in oro, citrino, quarzo lemon e quarzo fumé

Bracciale Ipanema in oro lavorato a mano, acquamarina, amazzonite, quarzo rutilato

Pendenti in oro e acquamarine, labradorite, quarzo rutilato — Pendenti in oro e acquamarina, labradorite, quarzo rutilato

Orecchini con acquamarina e quarzo rutilato

Orecchini in oro, smoky quartz, citrino, e diamanti

A super necklace for ten

Published on September 8, 2016

news

A historical necklace by a historical designer returns to live. In Brazil.
Story of an exceptional necklace that comes back to life. It is a story that is worth reading. First, because to draw it, and then wear it, it was Lina Bo Bardi (Rome, 1914 – São Paulo, 1992). She was an Italian architect, naturalized Brazilian, active in the modernist movement. For architecture and design enthusiasts, we remember that she began her career in the studio of Gio Ponti, in Milan. At the end of the war, after the 1943 bombing had destroyed the study who had opened on her own, with her husband Pietro Maria Bardi she moved to Brazil. She has become a great architect (with her famous Glass House, in the new district of Morumbi in Sao Paulo). In addition to designing modern buildings, the designer was the author of this spectacular necklace: 62 large aquamarines, gift of powerful Brazilian entrepreneur Assis Chateaubriand. Lina Bo Bardi designed the jewel, in which the stones seem to float on a gold set.
But in 1986 the necklace was stolen from the Glass house together with other 42 other jewels by four robbers: they threw away aquamarines to just sell the golden joint. “It was a cultural crime. For the first time, I felt anger for Brazil, “said Lina then.
Now, three decades later, the piece is reproduced in a limited edition by the Brazilian Talento Joias. The series includes ten numbered necklaces. In addition to the version with aquamarines, there will also be those with prasiolite, amethyst and blue topaz. The different versions will be on display in traveling exhibitions in Brazil. Federico Graglia

Dior between Granville flowers

Published on February 6, 2016

Showroom

Dior Granville is inspired by flowers and colors of a Normandy villa’s garden where Christian Dior spent his childhood. The house of Granville, now a museum, is the place chosen by the artistic director Victoire de Castellane to tell the 12 jewels unveiled during Paris couture week. Beryl, peridot, aquamarine, tanzanite, chrysoberyl, pink tourmaline, rubellite: in all pieces, all perfectly asymmetrical, there are the designer’s favourite stones, assembled in a way in which each every reflection and shade are clearly visible. Thus, the vivid hues are aligned to the most watery shades, in different cuts and setting styles. Te outcome? No one color dominates another in rare equilibrium in which all stand out. Not so easy to create such a rhythm with stones that seat beside to one another, and the marquise or princess cuts are next to pear-shaped, oval or round gems. Furthemore, the pairs of earrings that appear similar, to look carefully show details, although minimal, but different. In fact, if stone’s figure and size are equal the varieties change. For instance, on the right there is a tanzanite, while on the left a rubellite, or if there two same stones in one half is larger and in the other is stretched. In a single jewel you can have two different setting styles: a rub over and claw. Yet, in this anarchy of shapes and colors, each element has the same chance to shine. A very democratic idea, even if the price of fine jewelry, like its rainbow tones, is pleasantly jarring. M.B.

Granville, bracciale in oro rosa con tormalina rosa centrale e diamanti, peridoti, spinelli viola, granati spessartina, berilli gialli, zaffiri, spinelli rosa, tormaline verdi e acquamarine

Granville, anello in oro giallo con due crisoberilli centrali, berilli gialli, tormaline rosa e acquamarine

Granville, orecchini in oro giallo con diamanti, due tanzaniti grandi, zaffiri viola, spinelli rosa, granati e smeraldi

Granville, anello in oro giallo con tormalina verde centrale, berilli gialli, ioliti, granato spessartina (color arancio), rubellite, tormaline Paraiba e spinelli rossi

Granville, anello in oro giallo con rubellite centrale, granati spessartina, tanzaniti, tormaline e berilli gialli

Granville, orecchini in oro rosa con due acquamarina a forma di pera, diamanti, spinelli rosa, tormaline tipo Paraiba, crisoberilli, spinelli rossi e tormaline verdi

Granville, anello in oro giallo con tanzanite centrale, diamanti, smeraldi e granati spessartina

Granville, anello in oro rosa con tormalina verde centrale, acquamarine, tormaline rosa, granati spessartina e berilli verdi

Granville, orecchini in oro giallo con due grandi tormaline rosa, file di rubelliti, tanzaniti, acquamarine e granati spessatina e in cima smeraldi, diamanti e tsavoriti

Granville, anello in oro rosa con morganite centrale a goccia e crisoberilli, rubelliti, tormaline giallo-verde, granati spessartina e opali di fuoco

Granville, orecchini in oro rosa con due grandi tormaline tipo Paraiba di taglio diverso, tormaline rosa, zaffiri viola, berilli e tsavoriti