tiara

The crown jewels of Holland

Even the royals of Holland can boast a good number of important jewels. Here are what are ♦

Years ago, Maxima from the Netherlands was included among the 100 most influential people in the world by Time magazine for her social commitment. And she really seems like a lucky woman: she married a prince, she became queen, after Beatrice of Holland abdicated in favor of her son Willem-Alexander in 2013. Maxima Zorreguieta Cerruti, born in Argentina, also had access to one of the richest jewelery collections in Europe. It is a heritage accumulated over the centuries and kept intact thanks to a brilliant solution: that of bringing together the most important pieces in a foundation. And if the female members of the family can use them based on their dynastic role, some of these very precious jewels are reserved exclusively for the reigning queen or consort. Just like Queen Máxima, who one year after her coronation demonstrated great skill in modifying and wearing them. Because these are tiaras that can be dismantled and reassembled like necklaces and bracelets and vice versa. Here’s how, starting from the diamond-sapphire tiara worn on the day of the coronation.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara e gli orecchini della parure di zaffiri
Maxima of Holland with the tiara and earrings of the sapphire set

Sapphire Parure. Made in 1881 for Queen Emma, the tiara, which is part of the Sapphire Parure, has 655 South African round brilliant cut diamonds with a total of 242 carat and 33 sapphires of Cashmere 155 carats. One cushion cut sapphire surrounded by two smaller sapphires and five diamonds on each side is the central element, that can also be worn separately as a brooch. To make it lighter than the new queen has eliminates the three diamonds set in the shape of lilies on the top and replaces them with a single large diamond. The choker of this parure was worn as a tiara adding on top five elements each constituted by one central sapphire surrounded by diamonds in a diamond-shaped set.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la collana della parure di zaffiri indossata come tiara
Maxima of Holland with the sapphire set necklace worn as a tiara

Diamond tiara .It’s a Queen Emma wedding gift from the in 1879, and it was originally topped by three star of diamonds 12-pointed. Now it is composed of three central diamonds that can be replaced by rubies.

Dettaglio della tiara con 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Detail of the tiara with 34 rose-cut diamonds

Rose-cut diamond tiara Tiara formed by a row of 34 large diamonds embedded on the plaque of platinum (chaton) a very popular fashion in the mid-nineteenth century, which can be used as a tiara or necklace.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of 34 rose-cut diamonds

Tiara of antiques pearls Belonged to the Grand Duchess Ana Pavlovna of Russia, wife of William II of the Netherlands, is made up of diamonds and seven pear-shaped pearls that appears to date back to 1600.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara delle perle antiche
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of ancient pearls

Tiara of daisies Transformed several times, initially had on top five pearls round each surrounded by ten diamonds brilliant cut, in order to form a daisy, in fact. In 2002, in lieu of flowers the stars were included handed down by Queen Emma, the second wife of William III. The star-shaped jewelry were popular in the late nineteenth century, and it was Sissi Empress Elisabeth of Austria to bring it to its success using them as barrettes in her hair.

La tiara delle margherite
The daisy tiara

Tiara Mellerio is part of a parure consisting of a necklace, a bracelet and a brooch with rubies and diamonds in large quantities: 385 gems in the tiara, necklace in 425 and 135 in the cuff.

La tiara Mellerio con bracciali e orecchini
The Mellerio tiara with bracelets and earrings

Wurttenberg Tiara is a tiara with an intricate design of diamonds and pearls forming swirls and lilies, surmounted by two rows of pearl teardrop-shaped, six at the bottom and five in the top, both of which are removable and are therefore four possible versions : with or without beads, with the first or second row. It has always been the favorite of the former Queen Beatrix, who since her wedding day worn it in all official occasions.

Dettaglio della tiara Wurttenberg
Detail of the Wurttenberg tiara
Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di tre diamanti centrali sostituibili con i rubini
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of three central diamonds replaceable with rubies
Dettaglio della tiara delle margherite-stelle
Detail of the daisy-star tiara
La tiara dele perle antiche senza perle
The antique pearl tiara without pearls

The jewels of Letizia of Spain

The jewels, and especially the tiaras, of the Queen of Spain Letizia ♦ ︎

Like all the queens, letizia Ortiz Rocasolano, wife of Philip VI of Spain, loves jewelry. As a former network journalist such as Bloomberg, CNN and the Spanish public broadcaster Tve, he is well aware of the value of image and visual communication. Clothing and jewelry selection are, therefore, particularly taken care of by Letizia, who married the then Prince of Asturias, Felipe di Borbone, on May 22, 2004. The ceremony was an event followed by TV stations all over the world: on the screens, one of the innumerable tiaras that are part of the royal kit has appeared. It’s a kind of jewel that seems to be among the queen’s favorites.

La tiara regalata dall'ex dittatore Francisco Franco alla allora regina di Spagna, Sofia, e ora indossata da Letizia
La tiara regalata dall’ex dittatore Francisco Franco alla allora regina di Spagna, Sofia, e ora indossata da Letizia

It is no coincidence that to celebrate the wedding anniversary, King Philip VI gave a tiara worth € 50,000 to Letizia: it is made up of 450 brilliant cut diamonds and five pairs of Australian pearls. Alongside the tiaras, of course, the Queen of Spain has many other jewels, including a pair of earrings with three sapphires each and a large Cartier bracelet in white gold and diamonds. About bracelet: Letizia has also decided to turn a diamond crown of Queen Victoria Eugenia. The set diamonds have been removed to be reused in two identical bracelets.
The Prussian tiara. From the neoclassical line with Greek inspiration, the tiara was made in Berlin in 1913 by the jeweler Koch. In platinum and diamonds, it is composed of two bands: the upper part with laurel leaves and the bottom with greek, in the middle a row of vertical bands of diamonds with a central motif from which hangs a pear-cut diamond. She was presented to Sofia by her mother for her eighteenth birthday.

tiara e1531652614656
La tiara prussiana
Letizia Ortiz indossa la tiara prussiana il giorno delle nozze con Felipe di Borbone
Letizia Ortiz indossa la tiara prussiana il giorno delle nozze con Felipe di Borbone

The chatones necklace. King Alfonso Alfonso XIII’s wedding gift to his wife was a type of necklace very popular in the mid-nineteenth century: diamonds set on a platinum plate (chaton) with a very discreet four-stemmed frame. The king used to have two diamonds on every anniversary, birthday or birth. Result? A 90-carat necklace that came up to life. Divided into two parts, one touched Juan Carlos and is often seen at the neck of Sofia of Spain.

La regina Sofia indossa la tiara di Cartier e la collana chatones
La regina Sofia indossa la tiara di Cartier e la collana chatones
Letizia con la tiara chatones
Letizia con la tiara chatones

The Cartier tiara. Created in the Twenties for Queen Victoria Eugenia, the diadem is composed of a central aigrette, or a frame or jewel in the shape of a feather, in platinum and diamonds and three sloping curls with a pearl set in the center. In a second time the pearls were replaced by emeralds inherited from the empress Eugenie of France, her godmother. Which were then sold during the Roman exile and the tiara returned to its original appearance.

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La tiara Cartier in un immagine precedente all’eliminazione della perla sulla sommità

The Mellerio or de la Chata tiara. Isabella II’s gift for her daughter’s wedding, nicknamed Chata, is one of the few jewels that has been saved from the sale during the Paris exile. The platinum structure ideally depicts the foam of a wave in the center and on the sides of the shells from which pear-shaped pearls hang and 12 diamonds that sway following the movements of the head. But a reader of gioiellis.com (see comments at the bottom of this page) points out that the story is another: the Mellerio diadem of pearls and diamonds, he specifies, was not sold to Drouot (30 June 1878) by Isabelle II simply because the queen received an annuity from Spain after the return to the throne of her son, Alfonso, and it is with this money that she bought new jewels from the French jeweler, like a necklace and a star-shaped tiara.

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La principessa delle Asturie con la tiara de la Chata

The floral tiara. It turns into a necklace or brooch the diadem composed of large diamond flowers, given by Francisco Franco to Sofia of Greece, betrothed to Juan Carlos of Bourbon.

tiara floerale franco
La tiara floreale regalo di Francisco Franco a Sofia di Grecia per le nozze con Juan Carlos

The Niarchos rubies. By Van Cleef et Arpels, they are a wedding present in Sofia of Greece by the Greek shipowner. The necklace consists of a chain mounted in gold with cabochon rubies of different sizes, each surrounded by diamonds. The tiara is a double row of the same motif of the necklace and can be used as a two-round necklace or as a long sautoir. To complete the set of drop earrings.

Niarchos
La parure di rubini, regalo di Stavros Niarchos a Sofia di Grecia per le nozze con Juan Carlos

The Russian tiara. Made of platinum, pearls and diamonds for Christine of Austria, regent of Spain, is inspired by the traditional Russian female headdress Kokoshnikc, from which the name comes.

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Sofia di Spagna con la tiara russa, appartenuta a Cristina d’Austria reggente di Spagna

The tiara of lily flowers. The most spectacular among the wedding gifts of Alfonso XIII, was created in 1906 by the jeweler Ansorena of Madrid and is composed of brilliant cut diamonds and cushion, on a platinum frame that draws the heraldic symbol of the Bourbons: the lilies. Queen Sofia has worn it only on special occasions.

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La tiara con i fiori di giglio simbolo araldico dei Borboni
La tiara regalata da Filippo per l'anniversario di nozze
La tiara regalata da Filippo per l’anniversario di nozze
La ex regina di Spagna Sofia con la tiara prussiana
La regina di Spagna Sofia con la tiara prussiana
La regina Sofia con la tiara
La regina Sofia con la tiara

Tiaras: a brilliant idea

Diadem and tiaras are all the rage, they can be precious or simple bijoux. Here is a selection and advice on how to wear a tiara or a diadem. And not just at the wedding ♦

Today, the word tiara has become synonymous with diadem. The tiara is often translated with a tiara-like word in many languages. Both words, however, derive from the ornaments worn on the head by men and women in antiquity. These ornaments indicated high status. But today this is no longer the case. The tiara is often worn on formal occasions, particularly if the dress code is a white tie, or for ceremonies such as weddings. And not only that: a tiara can also be worn with informal clothing. Of course, in this case, it will be different from the tiara used for a ceremony.

Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby's)
Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis wears a brooch and tiara with diamonds and emeralds (image from Sotheby’s catalog)

The first woman to minimize the royalty of tiaras, tiaras and crowns, the prerogative of high jewelery and high society, was Courtney Love, in 1995, when she showed up at a concert with a statement circle fakest crystals that looked like diamonds. Something similar to the crown of Miss America, pity the lipstick was deliberately smudged.

Meghan Markle, prima del suo principesco matrimonio, con tiara
Meghan Markle, before her princely wedding, with tiara

It was 20 years ago and now there are girls in New York who do not give up a jewel in the hair even to go to the office, while the fashion designer Vivienne Westwood wears a crown of coral when she goes on a bike ride to London. And so, like Borsalino hat is back in fashion for young men and casual dress, an outfit is not complete if it lacks the right ornament on head.

How to wear the tiara

That, pay attention, is no longer an expression of a rank, but a free choice. The most interesting thing is that the democratization of the tiara has even changed the label of the young princesses and queens in Europe, with Kate Middleton in the head, you should say, rather than the back door, in line with your ears and tilted at least 45 degrees, while the custom would like placed far ahead and almost horizontal. Now that you know even the proper way to bring here is a selection suited to weddings and less formal occasions.

Carolina Herrera, Falling Jasmine tiara e orecchino a bottone in argento placcato oro e smalto bianco
Carolina Herrera, Falling Jasmine tiara and ear stud in gold plated silver and white enamel

Tiaras are often worn by actresses in movies, comedies and on television. In 2013, Cartier created a replica of the ruby and diamond tiara they had originally made in 1956 for Princess Grace of Monaco for the film Grace of Monaco, starring Nicole Kidman. But the tiaras can also be made of plastic, rhinestones, Swarovski crystals or any other non-precious material. They are worn by women on occasions such as a party or prom. They are also worn by beauty pageant winners and children who dress up as Disney princesses.

Princess Eugenia con la tiara
Princess Eugenie with tiara
La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara
Princess Beatrice with her husband Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, wearing the Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara
Swarovski, Lucia tiara, in palladio e oro
Swarovski, Lucia tiara, palladium and gold
Tiara in platino con acquamarina
Bulgari, platinum tiara with aquamarine
Tiffany, diadema Butterfly. Gli spinelli rosa e i diamanti tondi taglio brillante adornano un diadema in platino di squisita manifattura, che sviluppa il tema della farfalla al centro. Peso complessivo in carati: diamanti tondi taglio brillante, 19.97; spinelli rosa, 10.98; diamanti marquise, 0.73
Tiffany, Butterfly tiara. Pink spinels and round brilliant diamonds adorn an exquisitely crafted platinum tiara, developing the butterfly theme at its centre. Total Carat Weight: Round Brilliant Diamonds, 19.97; pink spinels, 10.98; marquise diamonds, 0.73
TIara di Susan McLeary
Susan McLeary tiara
Kate Middleton con la tiara di Cartier
Kate Middleton with the Cartier tiara
Tiara e collana vittoriana venduta da Christie's
Victorian tiara and necklace sold at Christie’s
BijouxBrigitte, diadema color argento con strass. Prezzo: 25 euro
Bijou Brigitte, silver-colored tiara with rhinestones
La tiara progettata per Asscher (dal sito di Reena Ahluwalia)
The tiara designed for Asscher (from Reena Ahluwalia’s website)
Oscar de La Renta, tiara in metallo placcato oro e cristalli. Prezzo: 300 euro
Oscar de La Renta, gold plated metal tiara and crystals

The jewels of Queen Elizabeth seen up close




The farewell to Queen Elizabeth touch millions of people. But the queen leaves a legacy not only linked to her institutional figure, but also to her material. Starting with her jewels. And one of the events related to the queen’s jubilee, celebrated just two months before her death, concerns the display of her majesty jewels. The exhibition, organized by the Royal Collection Trust, is located in what used to be the Queen’s home, Buckingham Palace, London. Visitors can admire many of the Queen’s historic jewels, accompanied by original hand-finished images and prints taken by Dorothy Wilding (1893-1976), who has portrayed Elizabeth II on multiple occasions. The exhibition is titled The Platinum Jubilee: The Queen’s Accession and runs until October 2nd.

La regina Elisabetta indossa la tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland
La regina Elisabetta indossa la tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland

Jewelery is the most exciting item for aficionados. Also because there are not only jewels that have an exclusively historical value, as well as being precious. Many of the jewels on display, on the other hand, are among the favorites of the queen, who has worn them several times on official occasions and for the portraits of her that have become icons of her. For example, the Diamond Diadem tiara and The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland tiara.

La tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland. La regina fece riattaccare la parte superiore e la fascia nel 1969 e da allora la tiara è diventata uno dei suoi gioielli più riconoscibili
La tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland. La regina fece riattaccare la parte superiore e la fascia nel 1969 e da allora la tiara è diventata uno dei suoi gioielli più riconoscibili

The Diamond Diadem was created on the occasion of the coronation of George IV in 1821. It is a jewel made with 1,333 brilliant-cut diamonds and a band with two rows of pearls. Two diamonds are set in the shape of a rose, a thistle and two shamrocks: they are the national symbols of England, Scotland and Ireland. The diadem was inherited in 1837 by Queen Victoria and, among other things, appears on the first stamp ever created, the legendary Penny Black. The diadem went to Queen Alexandra, then to Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother and then to Elizabeth II, who wore it on the day of her coronation and for the opening of parliament from the first year of her reign.

Il Diamond Diadem. È incastonato con 1.333 diamanti taglio brillante e 169 perle. Il diadema è stato originariamente creato per l'incoronazione di Giorgio IV nel 1821
Il Diamond Diadem. È incastonato con 1.333 diamanti taglio brillante e 169 perle. Il diadema è stato originariamente creato per l’incoronazione di Giorgio IV nel 1821

The Vladimir diadem, on the other hand, is so called because it was made for the Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia and sold by her daughter to Queen Mary in 1921. Inherited from the current queen in 1953, the diadem was worn with its original pearl drops. . But there are also jewels that are visible in public for the first time, such as the Dorset bow brooch and a pair of diamond bracelets.

Diadema Vladimir. Realizzato per la Granduchessa Vladimir di Russia, questo diadema è stato venduto da sua figlia alla regina Mary nel 1921. Ereditato dalla regina nel 1953, il diadema è stato indossato con le sue gocce di perle originali
Diadema Vladimir. Realizzato per la Granduchessa Vladimir di Russia, questo diadema è stato venduto da sua figlia alla regina Mary nel 1921. Ereditato dalla regina nel 1953, il diadema è stato indossato con le sue gocce di perle originali

The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland tiara, on the other hand, has been owned by the queen since 1947, as a wedding gift from her grandmother, Queen Mary. Among the jewels there is also the Nizam of Hyderabad necklace in platinum with 300 diamonds: it was donated to Princess Elizabeth by the Nizam of Hyderabad (governor of the Kingdom, title of the native sovereigns of the Indian state of Hyderabad) as a wedding gift in 1947. Elizabeth II he wore it was often worn for official engagements and formal portraits.

Collana Nizam of Hyderabad in platino con 300 diamanti
Collana Nizam of Hyderabad in platino con 300 diamanti
Bracciale di Cartier in platino, diamanti e zaffiri
Bracciale di Cartier in platino, diamanti e zaffiri
Collana Delhi Durbar. È composta con nove smeraldi originariamente di proprietà della nonna della regina, Mary. Il diamante ovale da 8,8 carati è stato tagliato dal diamante Cullinan, il più grande mai trovato
Collana Delhi Durbar. È composta con nove smeraldi
originariamente di proprietà della nonna della regina, Mary. Il diamante ovale da 8,8 carati è stato tagliato dal diamante Cullinan, il più grande mai trovato
Garrard, collana regina del Sudafrica, 1947
Garrard, collana regina del Sudafrica, 1947
Garrard, bracciale della regina del Sudafrica
Garrard, bracciale della regina del Sudafrica
La regina Elisabetta II ritratta da Dorothy Wilding
La regina Elisabetta II ritratta da Dorothy Wilding
La regina Elisabetta II indossa il Diamond Diadem e la collana Nizam of Hyderabad
La regina Elisabetta II indossa il Diamond Diadem e la collana Nizam of Hyderabad
Spilla con diamanti dono della contea del Dorset alla regina Mary nel 1893. È stata donata alla principessa Elisabetta come regalo di nozze nel 1947
Spilla con diamanti dono della contea del Dorset alla regina Mary nel 1893. È stata donata alla principessa Elisabetta come regalo di nozze nel 1947







Which tiara to choose for the wedding?




Which tiara to choose for the wedding? Better to take some examples from the famous ones. This was explained in a book by Enrica Roddolo, a journalist for Corriere della Sera

It’s better the Halo tiara of Kate (Middleton) or Meander Tiara of Zara (daughter of Princess Anne)? There’s not a Royal wedding without a glittering tiara, as wrote by «Yes! Real weddings, royal weddings», book written by Enrica Roddolo and Giuliana Parabiago (Vallardi). Yeah, but what kind of circle of diamonds, precious stones or pearls choose? Here’s what they chose princesses and queens, as told by the volume about the most fascinating Royal weddings in the history of the twentieth century.

Kate Middleton con la Halo tiara
Kate Middleton con la Halo tiara

The wedding tiara of Kate, dubbed by its creator, the Maison Cartier of Paris, Halo Tiara – shimmering with nearly 800 diamonds round cut and 149 baguette cut – was a gift of love of King George VI for the Queen Mother. And he was commissioned in Paris and worn on various occasions by Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, later better known as the “queen mother”, above the fringe in vogue in the Twenties. Not surprisingly, the 1923 outfit, worn by Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, it seems that the “flappers” dancers. As the daughter of King George, Elizabeth II, he would have raised as a glittering circle to stop his curls resting behind. And, before ending up on the black head of Kate, he had already been given by the queen to her sister Margaret and her daughter Anna.

Zara Phillips
Zara Phillips

Even more fascinating the story, which unfolds over time, of the tiara worn by Zara, the daughter of the Princess Anne, for her “yes”, pronounced in Edinburgh at the end of summer 2011, with the champion of rugby Mike Tindall. It is the Meander Tiara, which is inspired by the clean lines of classical Greek. Not surprisingly, it belonged to the mother of Prince Philip of Greece, Duke of Edinburgh. Ethereal and very classic, the tiara had been given as a wedding gift, just to Elizabeth Princess Alice of Battenberg, who had been married to Prince Andrew of Greece. In fact, Elizabeth did not wore it on and never passed it a few years later a young Princess Anne, who instead has wore it very often enthusiastically.

Meghan Markle con orecchini e tiara
Meghan Markle con orecchini e tiara

Even the Queen Mother, Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, she wore a magnificent tiara for her “yes” to the future George VI: the beautiful Strathmore Rose, handed down over time, in the family. And, again, a bright circle of diamonds and precious stones for many years after will also to choose princesses more unconventional as Sarah Ferguson, who married the Duke of York, Andrew, in 1986, in an ivory dress designed by Lindka Cierach; and then Sophie Rhys-Jones in 1999, for his “yes” to Prince Edward, put on a white dress Samantha Shaw, fluid lines. Until the tiara worn by Kate Middleton also, for the “yes” of 2011.

Sofia di Borbone
Sofia di Borbone

And in Spain, the Bourbon court? In 1962 Sofia was married to a king without a kingdom, but on his head shone a magnificent tiara. To bring at the altar Juan Carlos – he was only the son of the Count of Barcelona, and was away the throne of the Bourbons that he would resume only in the seventies, after the death of General Franco – Sofia had to agree to three weddings. The royal house of the Greek Orthodox faith, the Catholic beliefs of Juan Carlos and in the midst of a thousand other political and diplomatic issues, including discontent Greek opposition that presaged trouble, made inevitable that complex ceremonial. The same tiara, May 22, 2004, framed the face of Letizia. Yet, little else unites those distant orange blossom sixties between Juan Carlos and Sofi to ones, still fragrant, between Felipe and Letizia. A tiara-love relationship between generations.

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La Tiara Spencer indossata da Lady Diana
Enrica Roddolo
Enrica Roddolo
La Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara
La Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara
La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara
La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara
La regina Elisabetta il giorno del suo matrimonio
La regina Elisabetta il giorno del suo matrimonio
Un'immagine degli anni Venti della tiara Greville
Un’immagine degli anni Venti della tiara Greville
Princess Eugenia con la tiara
Princess Eugenia con la tiara
La Strathmore Rose tiara
La Strathmore Rose tiara
Rose Elizabeth Bowes, la regina madre, moglie di Giorgio VI
Rose Elizabeth Bowes, la regina madre, moglie di Giorgio VI
Sophie Rhys Jones, contessa del Wessex e moglie di Edward
Sophie Rhys Jones, contessa del Wessex e moglie di Edward
Tiara Étoile in oro bianco con diamante D VVS2 taglio brillante da 0,93 carati, 2 diamanti D VVS1 taglio brillante da 0,73 e 0,70 carati, 2 diamanti D VVS1 taglio brillante da 0,53 carati ciascuno, 2 diamanti D VVS2 taglio brillante del peso di 0,54 carati ciascuno, 2 diamanti E VVS1 ed E VVS2 taglio brillante del peso di 0,54 carati ciascuno e diamanti taglio brillante.
Chaumet, tiara Étoile in oro bianco con diamante D VVS2 taglio brillante da 0,93 carati, 2 diamanti D VVS1 taglio brillante da 0,73 e 0,70 carati, 2 diamanti D VVS1 taglio brillante da 0,53 carati ciascuno, 2 diamanti D VVS2 taglio brillante del peso di 0,54 carati ciascuno, 2 diamanti E VVS1 ed E VVS2 taglio brillante del peso di 0,54 carati ciascuno e diamanti taglio brillante.
House of Garrard, tiara in oro bianco e diamanti
House of Garrard, tiara in oro bianco e diamanti






Aigrette, a jewel on the head




Do you know what an aigrette is? It is a jewel that serves to highlight the hair and face. That’s what the aigrette is, which is back in fashion ♦

If they ask you if you want to wear an aigrette, don’t blink as if you were asked to invent a new algorithm. Simply put, an aigrette is a feather-shaped piece of jewelry that adorns a hat or is used as a hair clip. It went out of fashion from the late nineteenth century to the first half of the twentieth century. It has now been reevaluated.

Aigrette in oro bianco, opale d'Etiopia,250 diamanti, 34 tormaline blu, 22 tanzanite violette, di Chaumet
Aigrette in oro bianco, opale d’Etiopia,250 diamanti, 34 tormaline blu, 22 tanzanite violette, di Chaumet

You should know, though, that aigrette is a French word that indicates a volatile, the egret, or white heron. The feathers of this bird have been used to compose these brooch from head for a long time, only to be supplanted by jewelry made only of metal and precious stones. Perhaps the most famous jewels of this type are the Aigrettes Cartier, become an essential part of the evening dresses provided by the famous couturier in London, House of Worth, which was all the rage in the early twentieth century. She wore one the actress Carey Mulligan during the shooting of the film The Great Gatsby, set in the twenties.

Carey Mulligan nel film «Il grande Gatsby»
Carey Mulligan nel film «Il grande Gatsby»

A very special example of aigrette is the peacock-shaped one of the Parisian jeweler Mellerio. The jewel belonged to Anita Delgado, the fifth Spanish wife of Kapurthala’s maharaja. The maharaja had purchased the aigrette before meeting his future wife, a flamenco dancer, and had given it to him during their civil wedding ceremony in Paris. The ornament is made of gold, diamonds and enamel.

L'aigrette a forma di pavone che fa parte oggi della collezione Al Thani
L’aigrette a forma di pavone che fa parte oggi della collezione Al Thani

This gem was also appreciated by men, but in the East. Aigrette, studded with diamonds and rubies, they decorated the turbans of the sultans in Istanbul. Many of these plumes are now on display in the halls of Topkapi Treasury. An aigrette was worn once even by senior officers of the French army. The most famous, however, is The Eye of the Tiger, diamond mounted by Cartier in an aigrette for the turban of Jam Sahib, Maharajah of Nawanagar, in 1934.

Ornamento per turbante del Maharaja di Nawanagar, circa 1907
Ornamento per turbante del Maharaja di Nawanagar, circa 1907
Jam Sahib, Maharajah di Nawanagar, con la spilla per turbante di Cartier
Jam Sahib, Maharajah di Nawanagar, con la spilla per turbante di Cartier
Spilla per cappello con diamanti di Oscar Massin
Spilla per cappello con diamanti di Oscar Massin
Spilla per copricapo in oro e diamanti di Cartier
Spilla per copricapo in oro e diamanti di Cartier
Spilla per capo fine Ottocento
Spilla per capo fine Ottocento
Ritratto Mathilde Querini con aigrette, di Pietro Longhi, Louvre
Ritratto Mathilde Querini con aigrette, di Pietro Longhi, Louvre







Lady Diana’s tiara (and 50 others) exhibited in London at Sotheby’s




Sotheby’s has organized the largest diadem exhibition ever staged in London in the last 20 years (28 May – 15 June). The event also coincides with the Jubilee Season, the celebrations for the 70th anniversary of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. And among the tiaras on display there is one more special than others: the historic Spencer Tiara, worn by one of the most influential members of the Royal Family: Lady Diana. The tiara dates back to 1767 and has been passed down from generation to generation within the Spencer family. The jewel was worn by Lady Diana, just over 40 years ago, also on the occasion of her wedding with Prince Charles in St. Paul’s Cathedral.

La Spencer Tiara
La Spencer Tiara

The Spencer tiara has a garland-style design, with a heart-shaped central element set with a diamond flanked by swirls, interspersed with star-shaped and trumpet-shaped flowers, also studded with diamonds, set in silver and gold. The central diamond was particularly loved by Lady Diana: her grandmother, Lady Cynthia Hamilton, received it as a wedding gift for her wedding in 1919 with Jack, Viscount Althorp, the future seventh Earl Spencer.
La principessa Diana con la Spencer Tiara
La principessa Diana con la Spencer Tiara

Over the course of nearly 200 years, as is often the case with jewelry of this type, the Spencer tiara was added and transformed until the crown jeweler, Garrard, was commissioned in the 1930s to transform the original tiara into the current jewel. Lady Diana was known for being fond of her Spencer Tiara, often wearing it for special events: she chose it at least seven times between 1983 and 1992.

The Queen’s Jubilee celebrations have given us the perfect opportunity to put on public display an outstanding selection of tiaras from noble and royal provenance, many of which haven’t been exhibited in decades. The sourcing of these jewels has been a labour of love, resulting in an exhibition that showcases the best iterations within the tiara style register, through some of its most famous incarnations – including the much-loved and photographed Spencer Tiara. This is also a wonderful moment for us to shine a special light on the dazzling craftsmanship delivered by generations of mainly British-based jewellers across several centuries of tiara making.
Kristian Spofforth, Head of Jewelery at Sotheby’s London

La Derby Tiara, inizialmente creata per la Duchessa di Devonshire nel 1893
La Derby Tiara, inizialmente creata per la Duchessa di Devonshire nel 1893

In addition to Lady Diana’s tiara, the exhibition features about fifty tiaras of aristocratic and royal provenance, with some pieces that will be exhibited publicly for the first time. Virtually all of the tiaras in the show were made and owned by British nobility and together they offer a dazzling and comprehensive review of all major tiara design styles, through some of the genre’s most exemplary exponents.
La tiara della regina Vittoria con diamanti e smeraldi realizzata dal gioielliere Joseph Kitching nel 1845
La tiara della regina Vittoria con diamanti e smeraldi realizzata dal gioielliere Joseph Kitching nel 1845

A number of tiaras in the exhibition in particular were worn on the occasion of the queen’s coronation in 1953, such as the Anglesey tiara, thought to have been made around 1890. Or the Derby Tiara, initially created for the Duchess of Devonshire in 1893 and the Westminster Halo Tiara, commissioned from Parisian jewelers Lacloche Frères in 1930 by the Duke of Westminster for his bride Loelia Ponsonby. Therefore, the most established designs within the tiara genre can be compared, such as the Empire style, Romantic Naturalism, Belle Époque, Art Deco, modern and contemporary genre.
The Fitzwilliam tiara, circa 1820,  esposta alla Tiaras exhibition at Sotheby’s
The Fitzwilliam tiara, circa 1820, esposta alla Tiaras exhibition at Sotheby’s

Among the most special pieces there is also Queen Victoria’s emerald and diamond tiara, designed by Prince Consort Albert in his Gothic revival style in 1845. The tiara was made by the crown jeweler Joseph Kitching, for the princely sum (a that time) of 1,150 pounds. It is one of the many jewels the prince has devised for the queen over the years and was reportedly her favorite. It is also considered to be one of the most elegant and sumptuous colored gemstone tiaras ever created: set in gold it has cushion-shaped diamonds interspersed with step-cut emeralds lined up on its base, topped with additional diamonds and emeralds in swirls and topped with a Graduated row of 19 pear-shaped inverted cabochon emeralds, the largest of which weighs 15 carats.
Tiara di Cartier, 1904
Tiara di Cartier, 1904

This tiara is often associated with representations of a younger Queen Victoria with her family, chief among them is Franz Xaver Winterhalter’s portrait The Royal Family in 1846, which depicts Queen Victoria with Prince Albert surrounded by their children, as well as to a number of the artist’s more intimate portraits. Queen Victoria is also known for wearing the tiara in several official engagements, including a state visit to France in 1855.

Tiara appartenuta a Giuseppina Bonaparte in oro e cammei
Tiara appartenuta a Giuseppina Bonaparte in oro e cammei

Tiara con diamanti e perle coltivate
Tiara con diamanti e perle coltivate

Tiara con diamanti, circa 1830
Tiara con diamanti, circa 1830
Diadema di Cartier con ametista, zaffiro e onice, 1920
Diadema di Cartier con ametista, zaffiro e onice, 1920
Tiara di Van Cleef & Arpels con diamanti e turchese, 1960
Tiara di Van Cleef & Arpels con diamanti e turchese, 1960
Diadema in argento placcato di Garrard
Diadema in argento placcato di Garrard
Diadema i a banda con gemme, circa 1920
Diadema i a banda con gemme, circa 1920
Tiara di diamanti di Carrington & co
Tiara di diamanti di Carrington & co

Diadema e collana della seconda metà dell'Ottocento
Diadema e collana della seconda metà dell’Ottocento







Bulgari high jewelery for Elizabeth’s jubilee

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It’s time for Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee. London has decided to celebrate the anniversary, from 2 to 5 June, with events and celebrations. And the queen, passionate about jewelry (she can boast an exceptional collection) is also a source of inspiration for designers. Bulgari, for example, announced the Jubilee Emerald Garden tiara, inspired by the Queen of England. Along with the tiara, a high-end jewelery watch was announced. The set of two unique pieces was created, says the Maison, in over 1,500 hours of work: it is the result of the skill of a master goldsmith in collaboration with a group of five artisans, two of which dedicated exclusively to the manual setting of gems.

Lo schizzo preparatorio per la tiara
Lo schizzo preparatorio per la tiara

The set consists of emeralds and diamonds mounted in a platinum frame. And platinum, in fact, is the Queen’s Jubilee. The jewelry design is inspired by a floral bouquet. In the center is a 63.44-carat Zambian emerald. But not only. The gem is engraved with a lotus flower. The tiara is also a transformable piece of jewelry, which can become a necklace.
Composizione del bracciale-orologio
Composizione del bracciale-orologio

The Divas’ Dream watch is made of white gold, set with eight Zambian emeralds (approx.18.40 carats), round brilliant diamonds and pavé diamonds set on the case and bracelet. The dial has snow-set diamonds (approx.11.40 carats). Making the clock was also complex: it involved five craftsmen, for a total of a thousand hours of work. In this case the emeralds were cut into a fan shape.

La tiara è anche un gioiello trasformabile, che può diventare una collana
La tiara è anche un gioiello trasformabile, che può diventare una collana

Lo smeraldo di 63.44 carati dello Zambia inciso con un fiore di loto
Lo smeraldo di 63.44 carati dello Zambia inciso con un fiore di loto

L'orologio Divas' Dream è realizzato in oro bianco, con otto smeraldi dello Zambia
L’orologio Divas’ Dream è realizzato in oro bianco, con otto smeraldi dello Zambia

Lavorazione del bracciale-orologio
Lavorazione del bracciale-orologio







Two big diamonds and princely tiaras at Christie’s auction




The catalog is now completed. And for fans of exceptional jewelry and gem collectors, who are a particularly popular type of investment in difficult historical times, Christie’s sale of Magnifxicent Jewels on May 11 at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues will offer plenty of opportunities. Starting with The Rock, a diamond that starts from one with a very wide gap: from 19 to 30 million Swiss francs (13-24 million euros or 9.2-20.5 million dollars). The diamond weighs 228.31 carats and is the largest ever seen at auction.

Rahul Kadakia con The Rock
Rahul Kadakia con The Rock

We are delighted to present the Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction led by THE ROCK, the largest ever white diamond to be offered at auction and a landmark moment in the market. Alongside this the legendary Red Cross Diamond, which has supported those enduring hardships since it was sold at Christie’s Red Cross Appeal in 1918, is offered with a share of the proceeds to be donated to the International Committee of the Red Cross. With the very best quality gemstones, jewels from noble provenance and iconic designs, the auction represents an exciting opportunity for our international collectors this season.
Max Fawcett, Head of Department, Jewelery

As we have already told, The Red Cross Diamond is back for the third time at auction, which despite its name is a cushion-cut intense yellow color of over 205 carats. It was first sold by Christie’s in 1918, and part of the proceeds went to the Red Cross. And this sale also partly benefits the International Committee of the Red Cross.

The red Cross diamond, di oltre 205 carati
The red Cross diamond, di oltre 205 carati

For nearly half a century, our family has had the privilege of safeguarding the Red Cross diamond. Since it was first brought to market in 1918, the legacy of this symbol of humanity has always been the support of communities ravaged by war, famine and other hardships endured by people across the world. At this auspicious moment in history, we honour the call others have made before us. In collaboration with Christie’s, we are pleased to offer The Red Cross Diamond for sale with a share of the proceeds to be donated to the great institution whose name it bears. We further dedicate this sale to the tireless efforts of the volunteers of the International Committee of the Red Cross and are privileged to support their cause.
Anonymous owner of The Red Cross Diamond

La Tiara Fürstenberg
La Tiara Fürstenberg

The Magnificent Jewels auction also includes 19th and 20th century tiaras, including the Tiara Fürstenberg (estimate 400,000-600,000 Swiss francs), and a pearl and diamond tiara with the brand of the famous Austrian jeweler Gustav Flach. This exemplary handcrafted jewel belonged to her Royal Highness of her Princess of Fürstenberg, born Countess Irma of Schönborn Buchheim (1867-1948), member of one of the most eminent aristocratic families of the Habsburg Empire. A letter in the Fürstenberg archives, directed by jeweler Flach Mediansky & Paltscho, explains the many ways the tiara can be transformed, from a tiara for Viennese high society court dances to a more moderate style with pearls, while the diamond motifs can be worn as a necklace, brooch or hairpins.

Collana di Bulgari con diamanti e rubini
Collana di Bulgari con diamanti e rubini
Orecchini di Jar a spirale con tormaline verdi
Orecchini di Jar a spirale con tormaline verdi







The waves of Chaumet with the Déferlante capsule collection

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Could not miss the tiara in the new high jewelry collection by Chaumet, called Déferlante. The name, in French, is often used to indicate a wave that breaks on the beach or on the rocks. And, in fact, the jewels have an appearance that recalls the undulating lines of the sea, as if they were composed of the light foam that forms on the edge of the waves. Instead, it’s about diamonds. The capsule collection presented during the Couture week continues the maison’s previous collection, which was inspired by the jewelry style of Napoleon and Giuseppina (with transformable tiara and jewels).

Anello trasformabile in oro bianco con diamante taglio smeraldo di oltre 6 carati al centro, e diamanti brillante, baguette, quadrati
Anello trasformabile in oro bianco con diamante taglio smeraldo di oltre 6 carati al centro, e diamanti brillante, baguette, quadrati

Even among the new pieces of the Déferlante collection there are transformable jewels, as in the case of the ring made up of diamonds with different cuts. Among the jewels, the three-row diamond necklace stands out, with diamonds that flutter and chase each other. The jewel is made up of two 3.57 and 1.05 carat pear-shaped D VVS1 diamonds, one 1.56 carat emerald cut D VVS2 diamond, one 1.54 carat emerald cut E VVS1 diamond, one E diamond 1.54-carat emerald-cut VVS2, a 1.51-carat emerald-cut VVS1 diamond, a 0.70-carat square-cut F VVS2 diamond, brilliant-cut, princess-cut, pear-shaped, square-cut and baguette-cut diamonds. In short, stones of the highest quality and captivating design. The jewels also enhance the lightness thanks to the use of fils couteaux, a refined technique for a setting reduced to just three prongs for the stones.

Collana Déferlante in oro bianco, con 2 diamanti D VVS1 a forma di pera da 3,57 e 1,05 carati, un diamante D VVS2 taglio smeraldo da 1,56 carati, un diamante E VVS1 taglio smeraldo da 1,54 carati, un diamante E VVS2 taglio smeraldo da 1,54 carati, un diamante D VVS1 taglio smeraldo da 1,51 carati, un diamante F VVS2 taglio quadrato da 0,70 carati, diamanti taglio brillante, taglio princess, a pera, taglio quadrato e taglio baguette
Collana Déferlante in oro bianco, con 2 diamanti D VVS1 a forma di pera da 3,57 e 1,05 carati, un diamante D VVS2 taglio smeraldo da 1,56 carati, un diamante E VVS1 taglio smeraldo da 1,54 carati, un diamante E VVS2 taglio smeraldo da 1,54 carati, un diamante D VVS1 taglio smeraldo da 1,51 carati, un diamante F VVS2 taglio quadrato da 0,70 carati, diamanti taglio brillante, taglio princess, a pera, taglio quadrato e taglio baguette
Spilla della collezione Déferlante
Spilla della collezione Déferlante
Orecchini con diamanti della collezione Déferlante
Orecchini con diamanti della collezione Déferlante

Diadema Déferlante in oro bianco, con un diamante D VVS2 taglio princess da 1.02 carati, 2 diamanti E VVS2 taglio princess da 1.02 carati ciascuno, 2 diamanti F VVS1 taglio quadrato da 0.71 e 0.70 carati, un diamante E VVS2 taglio brillante da Diamanti da 0,34 carati, taglio brillante, taglio princess, taglio quadrato e taglio baguette
Diadema Déferlante in oro bianco, con un diamante D VVS2 taglio princess da 1.02 carati, 2 diamanti E VVS2 taglio princess da 1.02 carati ciascuno, 2 diamanti F VVS1 taglio quadrato da 0.71 e 0.70 carati, un diamante E VVS2 taglio brillante da Diamanti da 0,34 carati, taglio brillante, taglio princess, taglio quadrato e taglio baguette







Joséphine’s jewels double the estimate




In the year of the anniversary of Napoleon’s death, two diadems which are traditionally thought to have belonged to Joséphine de Beauharnais (1763-1814), wife of the French emperor, were sold by Sotheby’s London for £ 576,600 (approx. 671.00 euros or 759,000 dollars). A figure that has almost doubled the maximum estimate of 300,000 pounds. A sign that historical jewels retain a charm that goes beyond their material value.

Giuseppina di Beauharnais ritratta da Andrea Appiani
Joséphine de Beauharnais ritratta da Andrea Appiani

Tiaras are considered examples of the finest French craftsmanship of the early 19th century. They were made in Paris around 1808 with a neoclassical design. After the French Revolution, in fact, Napoleon had tried to legitimize his new government by resurrecting historical and cultural references to ancient Rome. Joséphine understood the value of her public image of her, and used clothing and jewelry to evoke the ideals of the ancient world and connect her with the present Empire to increase the prestige of her husband’s regime.
Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (probabilmente fine XVI secolo); offerto insieme a una chiusura da cintura di design simile, con un cammeo in agata di Medusa (probabilmente fine del XVI secolo) e un ornamento per cintura con un cammeo in pietra dura di Zeus (1780-1800), nella custodia originale
Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (probabilmente fine XVI secolo); offerto insieme a una chiusura da cintura di design simile, con un cammeo in agata di Medusa (probabilmente fine del XVI secolo) e un ornamento per cintura con un cammeo in pietra dura di Zeus (1780-1800), nella custodia originale

The two tiaras are part of a set (designed to also be worn together). They are made of gold and blue champlevé enamel decorated with twenty-five carnelian carvings, predominantly male and female classical heads. They were offered together with a pair of drop earrings, each with a single intaglio and similarly decorated, and a hair comb and belt ornament, centered with a Bacchus carnelian cameo. The jewels have been kept in London for 150 years.

Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (fine XVI secolo)
Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (fine XVI secolo)







A spiral for Chaumet high jewelery

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The aesthetics of the ellipse, of the lines that wrap around a center of gravity as in the new collection by Chaumet, characterized the Baroque period. But not only that: even in the nineteenth century the spirals had a moment of glory. For example, the column in the center of Place Vendôme 44 meters high and decorated with bas-reliefs representing trophies and scenes of battles fought by the French army testifies to this. As in the Trajan’s Column in Rome, erected in 113 to celebrate the conquest of Dacia, the bas-reliefs in the Place Vendôme monument also follow a spiral pattern. And this is precisely why the Maison that has been producing high jewelery since 1780 (before the column was erected) was inspired by the monument. In any case, Chaumet was the first jewelry store to open a shop on Place Vendôme in 1812.

Tiara Torsade de Chaumet
Tiara Torsade de Chaumet

The result is Torsade de Chaumet, which features jewels marked by the spiral motif, in white gold, diamonds and rubies, sapphires or emeralds. Do not miss the jewel that contributed to the fame of Chaumet: the tiara. The Maison also created one for its first major client, the Empress Josephine, wife of Napoleon. The Torsade de Chaumet tiara is in 18-karat white gold, set with 385 Ef Vvs brilliant-cut white diamonds totaling 63.63 carats and 156 rose-cut white diamonds totaling 23.87 carats. The spirals are then used for earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings, always as a hallmark of the collection.

Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco, zaffiro e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco, zaffiro e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco, smeraldo e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco, smeraldo e diamanti
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti

Collana in oro bianco, diamanti e rubini
Collana in oro bianco, diamanti e rubini







The Spectacle sold by Christie’s for $ 14.2 million




There was anticipation for the sale of the monster-diamond put up for auction by Christie’s in Geneva. The 100.94-carat diamond called The Spectacle, cataloged as D-color, was sold for $ 14.2 million (€ 11.73 million), or $ 141,000 per carat. The diamond was cut from an even larger 207.29-carat rare rough diamond. The cutting process took one year and eight months. The emerald cut was chosen because it allows to maintain the perfect geometry of the crystal.

The Spectacle, diamante D-color, Internally Flawless, da 100,94 carati
The Spectacle, diamante D-color, Internally Flawless, da 100,94 carati

The jewels of Napoleon’s daughter

The super diamond was not the only star of the auction. The other jewelry that attracted media attention were the nine pieces that included a tiara, a necklace, a pair of earrings, two pendants and brooches, a ring and a bracelet. Jewels that have a significant history and sold to coincide with May 5, the 200-year anniversary of Napoleon’s death. An extraordinary coincidence, because the spectacular set of sapphires and diamonds was part of the collection of Napoleon’s adopted daughter, Stephanie de Beauharnais, Grand Duchess of Baden (1789-1860). Result: the collection was sold 100%, reaching a combined total of $ 3.6 million (approximately € 3 million). Together with these jewels, the important sapphire crown that belonged to Mary II Queen of Portugal earned 1.9 million dollars (1.6 million euros).

Crown, octagonal step-cut and oval-shaped sapphires, varied old-cut diamonds, gold, 1850s. Photo: courtesy Christie's
Crown, octagonal step-cut and oval-shaped sapphires, varied old-cut diamonds, gold, 1850s. Photo: courtesy Christie’s

Additional highlights of the sale included a 15.23-carat deep pink fancy diamond, which fetched $ 9.5 million (€ 7.8 million), a Boucheron purplish pink fancy diamond ring ($ 3.5 million). dollars) and a 53.53-carat heart-shaped diamond pendant, which sold for $ 3.1 million.
Anello con diamante ovale rosa intenso da 15,23 carati e diamanti incolori
Anello con diamante ovale rosa intenso da 15,23 carati e diamanti incolori

The general balance sheet of Christie’s Geneva Spring Luxury Season includes three live and two online auctions, including jewelry, wines and watches, with a subsequent following of online sales. The three-day auction total was over $ 95 million, with participants from 50 countries. All five auctions on the agenda welcomed new customers and significant participation was seen through Christie’s Live, the online bidding tool, which saw customers from San Francisco to Moscow and Oslo to Johannesburg bidding actively. In particular, the Magnificent Jewels auction reached $ 64 million (almost 53 million euros) with sales rates of 91% per lot and 98% in value. Bidders from 29 countries participated in the auction.

Anello di diamanti fancy rosa violaceo di Boucheron
Anello di diamanti fancy rosa violaceo di Boucheron

Diamante taglio a cuore da 53,53 carati
Diamante taglio a cuore da 53,53 carati







Sapphires win at Sotheby’s auction in Geneva




The tiara that belonged to the Savoy family, former royals of Italy, focused attention at Sotheby’s auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels in Geneva (totaled 56 million). The tiara sold for $ 1.6 million, one of the highest prices paid for such a piece of jewelry in recent years. The tiara was also advertised by Sotheby’s using an original marketing tool: it was possible to virtually wear the tiara through Instagram (this happened 22,000 times). The jewel, in natural pearls and diamonds, was most likely given to Maria Vittoria dal Pozzo on the occasion of her marriage to Amedeo I of Savoy, Duke of Aosta in 1867.

La tiara composta da perle naturali e diamanti
La tiara composta da perle naturali e diamanti

With their mix of magnificence and intimacy, tiaras have an X factor that transcends times and cultures. This tiara encapsulates all the pomp, power and presence associated with royal jewels and over the past couple of weeks, it has captured the imagination of collectors and Instagram users alike. The price achieved today is testament not only to its exceptional craftsmanship and the quality of its materials which makes it a true work of art, but also to its historical and emotional resonance.
Benoit Repellin, head of Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva

Benoit Repellin, responsabile dell'asta Magnificent Jewels di Sotheby's a Ginevra
Benoit Repellin, responsabile dell’asta Magnificent Jewels di Sotheby’s a Ginevra

But the tiara was not the only jewel to attract the attention of collectors. A 55.19-carat Kashmir sapphire (the largest gem of its kind ever up for auction) did even better. The gem is paired with another 25.97 carat sapphire: the stones are mounted in a 1930s diamond brooch, which belonged to Maureen Constance Guinness, Marquise of Dufferin and Ava. The jewel was sold for over $ 3.9 million.
zaffiro ovale e uno a forma di cuscino del peso rispettivamente di 5519 carati e 2597 carati 1
Spilla con zaffiri di 55,19 e 25,97 carati

The auction also recorded the sale of a group of seven jewels from an important collection owned by the nobility, with large diamonds and precious stones, many of which were set in spectacular designs by Harry Winston. 100% of the lots in this collection found buyers, reaching a whopping 19.8 million dollars, well above the pre-sale estimate (10.9 – 16.5 million). Among the most important pieces was a Harry Winston sapphire and diamond necklace, which holds a detachable pendant with a 111.73-carat cushion-shaped sapphire of Ceylon origin and royal blue color, sold for 4.7 million dollars.

Harry Winston, spilla-pendente con smeraldo e diamanti
Harry Winston, spilla-pendente con smeraldo e diamanti

Collana di perle naturali, diamanti e rubini
Collana di perle naturali, diamanti e rubini

Anello con raro diamante rosa arancio vivo fantasia a forma di pera del peso di 5,04 carati,
Anello con raro diamante rosa arancio vivo fantasia a forma di pera del peso di 5,04 carati,
Harry Winston, collana di diamanti con grande zaffiro  a forma di cuscino da 111,73 carati
Harry Winston, collana di diamanti con grande zaffiro a forma di cuscino da 111,73 carati
Harry Winston, collana di diamanti, 1973
Harry Winston, collana di diamanti, 1973

Anello con diamante blu intenso di Graff
Anello con diamante blu intenso di Graff







A tiara from the House of Savoy at Sotheby’s auction





The great auction houses have decided to challenge each other with tiaras, crowns and jewels of noble origin. Sotheby’s in Geneva, on 11 May, will offer a magnificent tiara handed down for generations by the Italian royal family as a highlight of the Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels auction. The jewels of the royal houses have a double charm: the one linked to the very nature of the jewels and the historical one, testimony of splendor and power of the past.

La tiara composta da perle naturali e diamanti
La tiara composta da perle naturali e diamanti. Photo: courtesy Sotheby’s

The tiara belongs to the House of Savoy, one of the oldest royal families in the world and the one that from 1861 to 1946 was the ruling house of Italy. The jewel is composed of natural pearls and diamonds and, according to Sotheby’s, one of the most important tiaras to have appeared on the market in recent years. The jewel will be offered with an estimate of $ 1-1.5 million. In short, it promises to be an auction steeped in history.

Dettaglio della tiara. Photo: courtesy Sotheby's
Dettaglio della tiara. Photo: courtesy Sotheby’s

But the dynastic profile is tempered by a surprising (for the auction world) use of technology. To inaugurate the presentation of the tiara on the global market, in fact, Sotheby’s has launched a new Instagram filter, with the aim of making this important historical jewel known to a 21st century audience, more accustomed to shaking images on their smartphones than attending auction sales. The filter can be found on Sotheby’s official Instagram profile (@sothebys) and on the one dedicated to jewels (@SothebysJewels). The filter allows you to virtually try on the tiara and take a picture of yourself while wearing it, against the 3D background of a historic Italian building, the Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi in Turin, once among the residences of the House of Savoy.

Il filtro Instagram permette di indossare virtualmente la tiara
Il filtro Instagram permette di indossare virtualmente la tiara

Tiaras have always been the flagship of great jewelry collections, but in the last decade their popularity has risen to unprecedented levels. These historical pieces are appreciated all over the world, not only for their craftsmanship and the quality of the materials that make them true works of art, but also for their historical and emotional importance: a mix of magnificence and intimacy.
Benoit Repellin, head of the Magnificent Jewels auction at Sotheby’s, Geneva

Maria Vittoria dal Pozzo
Maria Vittoria dal Pozzo

The history of the tiara is interesting: it dates back to the second half of the nineteenth century and belonged to two royal collections in Europe. It was probably given to Maria Vittoria dal Pozzo as a wedding gift on the occasion of her marriage to Amadeo I of Savoy, Duke of Aosta, then King of Spain (1870-1873) in 1867. The tiara remained in the family for over 150 years and is believed to have been created by Musy Padre e Figli, court jeweler of Turin and one of the oldest goldsmiths in Europe. The jewel is composed of spiral motifs, cushion, circular and single cut diamonds, which frame 11 natural pearls in the shape of a slightly baroque drop. But the jewel was more recently worn as a necklace.
La royal tiara in versione collana. Photo: courtesy Sotheby's
La royal tiara in versione collana. Photo: courtesy Sotheby’s

Il codice QR per il filtro Instagram da scannerizzare con la fotocamera del telefono
Il codice QR per il filtro Instagram da scannerizzare con la fotocamera del telefono







What jewelry to wear at the wedding


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What jewelry to wear on your wedding day? If you are thinking about what to choose besides the wedding ring, read this article. The first rule is … ♦

You have identified the dress. You decided the banquet room. You have found an agreement (tiring) about the guest list. One question remains: which jewels to wear on the wedding day? All right, there’s the wedding ring, but then? If you have any doubts here are 9 useful tips.

Anello nuziale sulla mano sinistra
Anello nuziale

1 Match fabrics and gold. Gold also has a color: it can be white, yellow or pink. If the gold color matches that of the dress the effect will be better. Did you think about it? The ivory color of a fabric, for example, is best combined with yellow gold, because it is in nuance with the shade of the fabric. If the dress is candid without shades, it is best combined with white gold or platinum and maybe even with silver, provided it is of design. Beware of pearls: even those small balls can be more or less white and match with the dress. Pink gold goes better with a colorful dress: not all of them are married in white, right? Another thing to keep an eye on: often the wedding dresses are adorned with beads or silver decorations: in this case the jewels must be coordinated with the type of precious decor chosen.

Gioielli abbinati con il colore del tessuto
Gioielli abbinati con il colore del tessuto

2 We must not overdo it. Even if you have lots of jewels in your drawer, or you have the option to buy them at will, on your wedding day, it’s best not to look like a Christmas tree. It is not necessary to wear diadem, earrings, necklace, bracelet and perhaps other rings at the same time. Better to choose one or two quality jewels, but that are appropriate with the dress. The old “less si more” is also valid when you get married.

Per i gioielli nel giorno del matrimonio vince sempre la semplicità
Per i gioielli nel giorno del matrimonio vince sempre la semplicità

3 Earrings only if … You must pay attention to the earrings: not only must they be in tone with the rest of the clothing, but also to the shape of the face. They could also be too much, for example, if you have opted for a very rich tiara.

Read also: How choose earrings

Orecchini pendenti molto vistosi, ma niente collana né diadema
Orecchini pendenti molto vistosi, ma niente collana né diadema

4 Simple necklace. A necklace is almost obligatory along with a dress with a neckline. A thin chain with a not too big pendant is as good as the classic string of pearls, single or double. Those who have a thin and slender neck can also venture into the choice of a choker, provided that it is coordinated with the dress and does not seem to be found by chance in the jeweltrunk of the grandmother. No necklace, however, in the case of a one-shoulder dress.

Collana, orecchini e diadema con piccole perle: perfettamente coordinati
Collana, orecchini e diadema con piccole perle: perfettamente coordinati

5 No watches. The time has come to say “yes”. But just this day is not the case to consult the watch, do you agree? Others will think of telling you not to go too early or late. If you feel the need to wear something on your wrist, better a bracelet that matches your dress. Remember that the hands are very photographed on the wedding day: one more reason for a reasoned choice of the bracelet that must be in tune with the ring.

Parure di collana e bracciale. Niente orologio
Parure di collana e bracciale. Niente orologio

6 Respect the times. There is nothing worse than to be at the last moment for the choice of jewels: they are a fundamental part of the look for an equally fundamental day of life. Choose and try the pairings at least three months before.

Il rischio di arrivare alla vigilia del matrimonio senza l'anello
Il rischio di arrivare alla vigilia del matrimonio senza l’anello

7 Budget. It is not the case to wear so many cheap jewels. If your wallet does not allow you a large expense, better to choose one only, but of quality: it will remain with you the rest of your life and it is a small investment.

Fede di Cartier, oro bianco e diamanti.
Fede di Cartier, oro bianco e diamanti. Prezzo: 19.900 euro

8 Tiara yes or not? The diadem in the shape of a small circle or crown, decorated with pearls, precious stones or flowers, is the jewel that is more visible than others. Therefore, great caution is needed in the choice, also because a tiara risks overwhelming the effect of the dress. First of all, the diadem should be coordinated with the dress: for example, if the dress has beads, even the diadem will use pearls. Moreover, it is certainly combined with other jewels: usually a tiara is in silver or white gold. Pay attention that the color corresponds to that of earrings or of the bracelet, if you wear one. Another important point: the diadem must correspond to the quantity and type of hair. Needless to wear a small circle between a mass of curly hair: it will disappear. Finally: it is absolutely necessary to try the tiara first, and with the type of hairstyle of the hair that will be used on the wedding day. When you do the test, wear it for a while, to see if it’s comfortable or turn into a mechanism that causes a headache.

Una tiara può anche essere un semplice cerchio con perline
Un diadema può anche essere un semplice cerchio con perline

9 Choose the ring. It seems obvious, yet there are those who are reduced at the last moment in choosing the ring to be exchanged at the time of “yes”. It is a mistake: that ring will be the most worn jewel in the years to come, better to weigh well the purchase. It is said that the ring should be a simple yellow gold faith: now there are wedding rings in all three colors of gold. There are also those who choose a ring with colored stones but, in that case, it is more difficult to combine with the dress and everything else. A useful tip: consider the type of work or habitual occupation and choose a ring that allows you freedom of movement or do not risk ruining yourself with daily use.

Anelli nuziali
Anelli nuziali







New Year with a jewel in the hair




Party with something precious in your hair: a tiara. Diadems and crowns are perfect jewels for a special evening ♦

A little courage and a sparkling touch: to feel like queens of the night on the occasion of a special evening (you decide which one) you just need a jewel in your hair. You don’t have to be a princess or wear a wedding dress to wear a tiara. By the way, it is better to specify: a tiara is a light ornamental crown. It is a jewel worn by women since ancient times. The women of ancient Greece and the matrons of ancient Rome wore a tiara. Today the tiara is worn in particular during very formal occasions but not only, as some believe, for the wedding ceremony. If you are curious, the word tiara is a word that has been preserved from Latin, and in turn derives from the ancient Greek τιάρα, a term that was imported from ancient Persian. A synonym for tiara is diadem.

Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby's)
Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby’s)

The tiara is often associated with nobility, although it is an ornament that has now come into common use, even if limited to important occasions. It is widely used, for example, in American high society. The fact remains that originally tiaras and diadems were the prerogative of the nobles. It is no coincidence that the British royal family has an unknown number of them. The queen often wears tiaras at state ceremonies. Most of Queen Elizabeth’s tiaras are a legacy of Queen Alexandra of Denmark, wife of Edward VII, the eldest son of Queen Victoria.
La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara
La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara

Queen Mary, wife of George V, son of Edward), for example received a famous kokoshnik style tiara (Russian folk hairstyle) as a wedding gift from Lord and Lady Iveagh in 1893. It consists of numerous interlocking diamond circles, with pearl drops stuck inside. It is now worn by Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall and wife of Prince Charles.
La Kokoshnik tiara e una collana di diamanti e smeraldi
La Kokoshnik tiara e una collana di diamanti e smeraldi indossati dalla regina Elisabetta

But tiaras aren’t always that valuable. There are some with faux pearls, there are tiaras with Swarovski crystals, small Greek-style crowns, but with leather leaves instead of gold. In short, this jewel is no longer placed only on crowned heads and there are also those who wear it to go out at night, like Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker and other celebrities. In short, why do without it?
Carolina Herrera, Falling Jasmine tiara e orecchino a bottone in argento placcato oro e smalto bianco
Carolina Herrera, Falling Jasmine tiara e orecchino a bottone in argento placcato oro e smalto bianco

Tiara di diamanti trasformabile in collana di Cartier
Tiara di diamanti trasformabile in collana di Cartier

Tiara in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e ametiste di diverse sfumature
Tiara in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e ametiste di diverse sfumature

Meghan Markle, prima del suo principesco matrimonio, con tiara
Meghan Markle, prima del suo principesco matrimonio, con tiara







The jewels of King Farouk of Egypt




It was thought lost and, instead, years ago the treasure of King Farouk of Egypt was found in the vault of an Egyptian bank: it is 265 jewels including a 44 carat diamond, which is believed be the third largest in the world. Farouk I of Egypt (Cairo 1920 – Rome, March 18, 1965), was the tenth sovereign of the Mehmet Ali dynasty and the penultimate King of Egypt. His reign ended due to the coup d’état of the military led by Nasser, following which the sovereign was forced to abdicate the throne in favor of the newborn son Ahmad Fuʾād. Exiled, Farouk died in Italy in 1965. Many articles have been written about the eventful life of the sovereign, protagonist of the Dolce Vita, and of his secret jewelry collection. Few, however, lingered on the jewelry collection, until someone was put up for sale by auction houses.

Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels venduta da Sotheby's: faceva parte del tesoro di re Farouk
Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels venduta da Sotheby’s: faceva parte del tesoro di re Farouk

Many jewels are exhibited in the Royal Jewelry Museum in Alexandria, which is located in what was the home of King Farouk’s sister, Fatima. These are about 246 objects accumulated by the Muhammed Ali dynasty, then confiscated by the Egyptian authorities at the end of the monarchy. Not all, however, given that two years ago Sotheby’s put on sale three jewels belonging to the king, including a brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, the favorite brand of Princess Fawzia, another sister of Farouk. For example, in 1939, for her marriage to the crown prince of Iran, Princess Fawzia wore a van Cleef & Arpels diamond and platinum tiara. And other bracelets and choker of platinum and diamonds belonged to Farouk’s mother, Queen Nazli, wife of King Fuad I.
Collana di Boucheron indossata dalla moglie di Farouk il giorno del suo matrimonio. Ha diamanti per 34,6 carati
Collana di Boucheron indossata dalla moglie di Farouk il giorno del suo matrimonio. Ha diamanti per 34,6 carati

For example, a diamond necklace that supports a flexible sunburst-shaped breastplate, centered on a round stone weighing about 6 carats, set with 118 round diamonds larger than the weight of about 134 carats, accentuated by smaller round diamonds than the weighing about 27 carats, completed by diamond baguettes weighing about 50 carats, was sold for 4.3 million dollars three years ago by Sotheby’s. It is this is just one of the jewels that are part of the treasure accumulated by the Muhammed Ali dynasty, which has reigned uninterruptedly in Egypt for over a century and a half.
Collana in platino e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1939. È composta da oltre 600 diamanti rotondi e baguette: apparteneva alla madre di Faouk, regina Nazli
Collana in platino e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1939. È composta da oltre 600 diamanti rotondi e baguette: apparteneva alla madre di Faouk, regina Nazli

La collana di Van Cleef & Arpels
La collana di Van Cleef & Arpels

La collana di diamanti indossata dalla regina Nazli
La collana di diamanti indossata dalla regina Nazli

Tiara con pavone e fiori di loto della principessa Farida, indossata per il matrimonio con re Farouk. In cima c’è un diamante a forma di cuore di circa 4 carati
Tiara con pavone e fiori di loto della principessa Farida, indossata per il matrimonio con re Farouk. In cima c’è un diamante a forma di cuore di circa 4 carati

Collana di diamanti e platino del tesoro di re Farouk, indossata dalla prima moglie Farida
Collana di diamanti e platino del tesoro di re Farouk, indossata dalla prima moglie Farida
Re Farouk d'Egitto
Re Farouk d’Egitto
Farouk e Farida il giorno del matrimonio
Farouk e Farida il giorno del matrimonio

Il diadema del matrimonio fu un regalo della regina madre Nazli. Il collier da 114 diamanti per 346 carati, invece fu commissionato da Farouk a Boucheron come regalo per la sposa
Il diadema del matrimonio fu un regalo della regina madre Nazli. Il collier da 114 diamanti per 346 carati, invece fu commissionato da Farouk a Boucheron come regalo per la sposa







The strange story of the tiara worn by Beatrice

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Most of the comments in the newspapers and on the web about the wedding of Princess Beatrice with Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi centered on the Norman Hartnell dress. Few, however, have underlined the choice to wear a tiara that has a long and surprising history. So, it is worth telling the story of the tiara worn by Princess Beatrice, daughter of Prince Andrew, Duke of York and second son of Queen Elizabeth.

La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara
La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara

The tiara that Beatrice wore is special: suffice it to say that it was in the hair of Queen Elizabeth on the day of her wedding with Philip, Prince of Edinburgh in 1947. It is the Queen Mary Fringe, who is over one hundred years old. The tiara, in fact, was made by the London jeweler Garrard on commission from Queen Mary in 1919. But it has an even older origin because it is made with diamonds of a necklace that Queen Victoria had given to Queen Mary in 1893 on the occasion of his marriage to what would become George V, and then he was the granddaughter of the tenant of Buckingham Palace.

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One step back. The diamond necklace, which became tiara, was originally owned by George III and his wife, Queen Charlotte. Precisely for this reason the tiara is also called as a diadem of George III or Hanover, in the past the noble title of the royal family, which has German origins. But it was a necklace with an exotic shape and, above all, in a kokoshnik style: a word that indicates a traditional headdress of Russian women. The necklace, in fact, was convertible and could also be worn on the hair as a diadem.

Embed from Getty Images

The tiara, therefore, was worn by Queen Mary for her wedding and then by Queen Elizabeth for her wedding with Philip Mountbatten. But with a little drama: while Elizabeth was getting dressed for the ceremony, the mechanism that keeps the shape of the frame of the tiara was blocked. A problem solved, with some anxiety, after the jewel was hurriedly brought to the jeweler’s laboratory. Despite this, the central fringe of the tiara remained slightly tilted, as evidenced by the photos taken on the occasion.

La regina Elisabetta il giorno del suo matrimonio
La regina Elisabetta il giorno del suo matrimonio

The story of the tiara is not over. It was still worn, in fact, by Princess Anne in 1973, on the occasion of her marriage to Mark Phillips. Queen Elizabeth later inherited the tiara in 2020 when Queen Mother died and wore it in a Diamond Jubilee Portrait, an image taken in the Blue Room at Buckingham Palace by Julian Calder for the Governor General of New Zealand in 2011. And now it was Beatrice’s turn. Who will be next to wear the jewel?

La Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara
La Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara







Dorotheum will auction off the Habsburg jewels

At the auction of Dorotheum tiara and brooch of Maria Valeria, Archduchess of Austria ♦ ︎

The charm of ancient nobility is often present in jewelery auctions. Dorotheum knows it well, and in Vienna on November 27 it will sell a diadem and brooch of Maria Valeria, daughter of the Empress Elisabeth. Maria Valeria was the favorite daughter of Elizabeth Amalia Eugenia of Wittelsbach, Duchess of Bavaria who, with her marriage to Francis Joseph, became empress of Austria, apostolic queen of Hungary, queen of Bohemia and Croatia.

Diadema di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria
Diadema di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria

The two precious jewels owned by Maria Valeria are a diadem set with 15 oriental pearls and 25 carat diamonds, and an equally magnificent brooch, so-called corsage: two pieces that amaze not only with their diamonds, but also for the numerous and very rare oriental pearls, then fashionable all over Europe, symbol of beauty, power and influence. The two jewels are considered to be in excellent condition. The estimate ranges from 100,000 to 200,000 euros (for the diadem) and from 60,000 to 100,000 euros (for the brooch).
Spilla corsage di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria
Spilla corsage di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria

In 1890, when Archduchess Maria Valeria married Archduke Francesco Salvatore of Austria-Tuscany, jeweler A. E. Köchert was a third-generation court and Imperial-Royal Chamber supplier. It was he who executed the brooch around 1890. It was Wilhelm Friedrich Haarstrick, until 1891 authorized signatory and head of the atelier, who designed the diadem.
Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria
Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria

Elisabetta d'Austria, quadro di Franz Xaver Winterhalter
Elisabetta d’Austria, quadro di Franz Xaver Winterhalter