riviére

Rivière jewelery guide

Rivière and Triple X: Two terms that are sometimes used in jewelery. You want to know what Rivière and Triple X mean? Read here ♦

Some time ago, in New York, in a Bonhams auction, a 51 diamond rivière necklace, rated triple X-cut, was sold for $ 1.2 million. It was been the jewel that has reached the highest price. Each diamond of the necklace was accompanied by a certificate from the Gemological Institute of America. The diamonds in question weigh over 70 carats: in the necklace are joined by a 2.04-carat heart-shaped clip. The stones are mounted in platinum. But do you know what the rivière and triple X definitions mean?

Collana rivière di diamanti di metà XIX secolo
Mid-19th century diamond rivière necklace

Rivière. The term rivière derives from the French word that means river. In jewelry, it indicates a row of stones that are the same size or scale, that is, from larger to gradually smaller. It is also a way to make the most of the stones of different sizes and order them in a geometric pattern. It is a set often used for diamond necklaces, more rarely with other stones. Very fashionable in England during the Georgian period, rivière style necklaces are still popular today.

Collana rivière in stile art déco in oro bianco, tormalina, malachite, onice e diamanti
Boucheron, art deco rivière necklace in white gold, tourmaline, malachite, onyx and diamonds

Rivière necklaces are usually designed without ornaments, to enhance the stones used. But in some cases these necklaces hide a small ring that allow you to add a pendant. There is also a practical reason when it comes to necklaces with stones of different sizes: enhancing the larger ones, placing them on the front of the necklace, makes the jewel more slender. The perspective effect of the stones that become smaller when they approach the nape of the neck also makes the necklace more slender. Finally, it is difficult for a jeweler to have so many stones of the same size and quality. This solves the problem.

Nicole Kidman con una collana rivière in un'immagine di qualche anno fa
Nicole Kidman with a rivière necklace in an image from a few years ago

Triple X. Also known as Triple Ex, it is an informal denomination, mostly in the commerce sector, which means a diamond that has excellent chiselling, symmetry and cutting. The definition is only intended for brilliant cutting diamonds.

Nicole Kidman con una collana rivière in un'immagine di qualche anno fa
Nicole Kidman con una collana rivière in un’immagine di qualche anno fa

Tripla X. Conosciuta anche come «Triple Ex», è una denominazione informale, per lo più nel settore del commercio, che significa un diamante che ha ottima cesellatura, simmetria e taglio. La definizione è destinata solo ai diamanti taglio brillante.

La collana rivière appartenuta a Zsa Zsa Gabor. Stima: 1,2-1,5 milioni di dollari
The rivière necklace that belonged to Zsa Zsa Gabor
Bonhams Riviere necklace
The rivière necklace sold at Bonham’s for $1.2 million
Collana rivière a tre fili
hree-strand rivière necklace
collana cartier
Rivière necklace by Cartier. Sold for $2.8 million

The secrets of the stones setting




Do you know how the stones are set in a ring? The settings are not all the same. Here’s what setting means and what the differences are ♦ ︎

Do you know what kind of workmanship the ring you wear has? If you also use a gem, it is likely that the craftsman who made the ring placed it with a setting. But perhaps you don’t know that there are different types of embedding, that is, the arrangement of the stones on and inside the metal that contains them: an operation that is performed by hand with the necessary skill. The setting is used to hold the stones in the jewels: the space that houses the stone is called a bezel.

Anello in titanio con smeraldo colombiano incastonato un cristallo di rocca
Busatti Milano, anello in titanio con smeraldo colombiano incastonato un cristallo di rocca

Read also: all about the bezel

Semi Bezel. The “open” embedding means that the stone is placed in a perforated metal and receives the light from the reverse. Basically the rays of light also hit the back or side of the stone, which is embedded in a metal circle (if the stone is round). Of course, for this type of setting, the stone must be extremely transparent, like a diamond. In this way the light can pass through the stone and be reflected outside. The advantage of this type of processing is that the stone is brighter, since it also receives the rays of light from the lower surface. On the other hand, the jeweler’s work must be done very carefully, to prevent the stone from accidentally coming out of the metal.

Anello Bon Ton Atelier, il retro con il pavé di diamanti
Anello Bon Ton Atelier, il retro con il pavé di diamanti

Bezel ring. The setting is obviously the opposite of the semi bezel setting. It is used, in fact, when the stone mounted in the jewel is not particularly transparent and, therefore, does not need to let the light filter through it. With this setting, the stone housing is closed, with a metal base on which the stone rests. It is also the most common case of setting, especially in jewelry that uses semi-precious stones.

Retro di un anello con castone
Retro di un anello con castone

Pavé. When so many small stones are placed next to each other, so much so that it is difficult to see the metal that contains them, a pavé is obtained: it can be limited to a row or cover an entire surface of the jewel. The pavé can surround a larger stone , thus creating a bezel that is formed from other gems instead of metal.
Nuovo anello della collezione Firework con pavé di diamanti e tanzanite taglio ovale
Nuovo anello della collezione Firework con pavé di diamanti e tanzanite taglio ovale

Riviére. The setting of this type is made up of a row of gems, almost always brilliant cut diamonds, which are arranged along a straight line: also in this case with little visible metal. Unlike the classic riviére used, for example, for necklaces, in this type of setting the stones do not always have a scalar dimension. That is, all stones of the same size are used.

Anello con incassatura riviére di zirconia cubica
Anello con incassatura riviére di zirconia cubica







12 styles of necklaces you need to know




A short guide to the 12 main styles of necklaces to help you choose the right one. If you want to learn how to recognize the style of a necklace, read here ♦

Think you know all the styles in which a necklace can be made? We have identified 12, the main ones. There are others as well, but they are quite rare. Here, then, is a short guide to learn how to recognize the styles of necklaces.

Collana Butterfly di Sicis
Collana Butterfly di Sicis

1 Sautoir This is a French word for a very long necklace, often with a tassel-shaped pendant at the bottom. The sautoir necklace became fashionable in the 1920s and 1930s, and is often associated with the Art Deco style. It can have a single wire or two or three. The advantage of a Sautoir necklace is that it can also be transformed into a multi-loop bracelet, or as a decoration on the hair and even as a belt. In short, it is a very versatile type of necklace, which is well suited to be used with different types of clothes and in different situations. It has only one flaw: the generous dimensions often make it quite expensive, if it is made of gold.

Sautoir in turchese di Van Cleef & Arpels
Sautoir in turchese di Van Cleef & Arpels

2 Matinée Approximately 50-58 centimeters long, it is often worn with dresses that have necklines, which are therefore emphasized by the matinee necklace. The necklace, however, is usually worn above the neckline. It is a type of jewel that is perfect for different occasions: it adapts easily to different types of clothing and can be worn both on informal occasions and on ceremonial occasions. A classic of the matinee necklace is the string of pearls. And, like, for the sautoir, this necklace can also have several strands.

Collana in diamanti e smeraldi, indossata a Baselworld
Collana in diamanti e smeraldi di Jacob & Co, indossata

3 Princess You don’t need blue blood to wear a princess necklace. It is actually a medium length necklace, between 43 and 45 centimeters in length, which can be worn on virtually any occasion. It is the typical classic necklace and goes better, in particular, with a fairly formal dress. It is often a necklace that favors the use of more or less precious gems.

Collezione Dancing in the Rain Aquamarine, collana indossata
Collezione Dancing in the Rain Aquamarine, indossata

4 Chokers All the rage in the nineteenth century, these ultra-short necklaces made a comeback in the eighties and recently revived. It is not recommended for those with a short or slightly thick neck. On the contrary, it is capable of making those who boast a swan neck stand out. Princess Diana often wore a pearl choker, but the choker can also be a simple chain, or a thread of precious stones: the definition of choker does not indicate the thickness of the jewel, but its length.

La principessa Diana con il choker di perle e tiara
La principessa Diana con il choker di perle e tiara

5 Opera It is a variant of sautoir necklace, between 70 and 90 centimeters long. As the name suggests, it was introduced to be worn on big evenings and is usually made with gold and precious stones. It is not a necklace that can be found in all drawers, in short. Worn in a single strand, the necklace should drop below the bust line or even down to the navel.

Buccellati7
Opera, collana doppia in oro giallo e bianco e diamanti

6 Bib The name does not do justice to these necklaces which are often very decorative. Wide on the chest, they must be worn carefully, because their design must be carefully coordinated with the rest of the clothing. They can be ethnic, or with abstract motifs, with beads or crystals. They are demanding necklaces: you have to know how to wear them. There are also very valuable ones.

Collana in platino e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1939. È composta da oltre 600 diamanti rotondi e baguette: apparteneva alla madre di Faouk, regina Nazli
Collana in platino e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1939. È composta da oltre 600 diamanti rotondi e baguette: apparteneva alla madre di Faouk, regina Nazli

7 Lavaliére Necklace with pendant that connects to a chain. The main pendant can in turn be connected to fringes or other pendants. It was a popular necklace in the early twentieth century, when Liberty, Edwardian and Art Deco styles reigned. But it is back in fashion, with many variations, especially in high jewelry.

Collana Lavaliére in oro e perle
Collana Lavaliére in oro e perle

8 Multi strand As the name indicates, they are necklaces made up of many connected strings. It is a classic of pearl and bead necklaces. This type of necklace is not tied to a precise length, but simply indicates the possibility of shortening a long necklace by wrapping it in multiple turns around the neck. But be careful: if the elements that make up the necklace are large (large rings for chains, synthetic gems, cultured pearls) it is necessary not to overdo it. In these cases it is better to limit yourself to two turns or keep a single thread. On the contrary, thin chains are indicated to be worn as a multi strand necklace.

Collana Ivy in oro e diamanti a due giri
Collana Ivy in oro e diamanti a due giri di Nanis

9 Necklace with pendant A pendant at the end of the necklace can be a trivial expedient to enrich a simple chain or a masterpiece of fine jewelry. In short, large medallions and pendants must be chosen carefully so as not to attract the eye to something that is worth little. In the case of bijoux, in short, a small pendant is better. An advantage of pendants is that they can often be personalized with dates, initials, dedications: nothing better to attract a glance.

Pendente con acquamarina e diamanti
Pendente con acquamarina e diamanti

10 Riviére This is the name of a necklace made up of one or two rows of precious or semi-precious stones. The stones or pearls have a different size: larger in the front of the necklace, smaller in the one that hugs the neck. This arrangement, in fact, highlights the stones of greater size. Since it is usually an expensive piece of jewelry, these necklaces have a small size, often that of a choker.

Collana rivière
Collana rivière

11 Collar Not exactly a chocker: by this definition we mean a very thin circular necklace that exactly surrounds the base of the neck. Very short, it can also be worn over a collarless t-shirt or summer dress. Often these are very sporty and not particularly precious necklaces. But there are also necklaces of this size in gold and precious stones.
Aster Double Bloom Collar, in oro giallo e diamanti
Maria Canale, Aster Double Bloom Collar, in oro giallo e diamanti

12 Rope Indicates a necklace with twisted threads, to compose a single volume, as if it were a large rope. It goes without saying that cheap necklaces or necklaces that adopt an avant-garde design are part of the category. But, in reality, the lanyards can also be used for luxury jewelry. For example, when a fabric or leather lace is used in conjunction with a gemstone pendant.
Pendente Scavia, con diamante Fancy Yellow
Pendente Scavia, con diamante Fancy Yellow di Diamond Love Bond






Rivière’s savoir faire

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Other jewels from the Savoie Faire collection by Rivière, which presented new pieces with diamonds and sapphires at Couture Show ♦ ︎

Savoir Faire is a French expression that indicates the ability to know how to move, compare and speak in every circumstance. Especially when it comes to relationships between two people. In short, savoir faire is essential to meet the partner’s desire. The Roman Maison Rivière has dedicated to this way of saying a rather large collection of jewels. As happens when the choice meets the taste of the public, other pieces are added to the collection over time. In 2018, in particular, were presented a pair of earrings with gold fringe, a necklace in the same style, and three bracelets that are added to the many variations of the collection: all the pieces use gold, small diamonds to follow the perimeter of the jewels and pearls of different colors.
The combination between the pastel color of pearls and gold is a constant by Rivière. Which, however, does not stop there. At the Couture Show in Las Vegas, for example, the Maison presented new jewelry with the classic combination of diamonds and blue sapphires, jewels that perhaps have a greater impact on the American public. This is also a demonstration of savoir faire. Alessia Mongrando





Bracciale in oro bianco, diamanti e perla
Bracciale in oro bianco, diamanti e perla

Bracciale in oro giallo, diamanti e perla
Bracciale in oro giallo, diamanti e perla
Bracciale in oro rosa, diamanti e perla
Bracciale in oro rosa, diamanti e perla
Pendente della collezione Savoir Faire
Pendente della collezione Savoir Faire
Rivière, orecchini della collezione Savoir Faire
Rivière, orecchini della collezione Savoir Faire
Anello in oro rodiato, diamanti e zaffiri
Anello in oro rodiato, diamanti e zaffiri
Orecchini pendenti in oro rodiato, diamanti e zaffiri
Orecchini pendenti in oro rodiato, diamanti e zaffiri

Orecchini in oro rodiato, diamanti e zaffiri
Orecchini in oro rodiato, diamanti e zaffiri







Baselworld: win or flop?





Baselworld 2018, number of visitors unchanged. Here’s who is happy and who is puzzled among jewelers ♦ ︎
It depends. The final judgment on Baselworld 2018 can be summarized as follows: it depends. Because the Basel Watch and Jewelery Fair (22-26 March 2018) had two faces. One is the one summarized by two numbers: 1300 and 650. The first is the number of exhibitors, already declining, in 2017 (there were 1500 in 2016). The second is the number of exhibitors in 2018, less than half. A massacre. «A selection», he prefers to call it the managing director of Mch, the company that organizes Baselworld. But, in fact, it depends on the points of view. Faced with such a drastic reduction could have been much worse. The final balance of Baselworld 2018, in the words of the organizers is, if not exciting, at least sufficient. The number of visitors, for example, “has remained stable”. Since the fair lasted two days less, this is considered a success. At the moment we do not know the number of buyers present. 4,400 journalists came to Baselworld, 15% less from Europe, but 5% more from Asia. And if many big brands, such as Festina or Dior, this year have defected the Basel fair, Breitling, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Swatch, Chanel and Gucci have already announced that they will also be present next year, from 21 to 26 March 2019 .
And exhibitors? The opinions are different. Again, it depends. Among the opinions collected by gioiellis.com among jewelers, prevails a lack of enthusiasm for the new formula “concentrated”, which for some is “sad” when compared to the atmosphere that was breathed until a couple of years ago. But at the same time, many have confirmed that commercial activity has not been lacking and, therefore, the presence in Basel still has a reason for being. From the comments collected during the fair, we can summarize the mood:
We are equally satisfied: Fope, Pasquale Bruni, Nanis, Alessio Boschi, Tamara Comolli, Picchiotti, Messika, Mattioli, Rivière
Everything is OK, but some perplexities: Casato, Annamaria Cammilli, Leo Pizzo, Yoko London, Giovanni Ferraris, Djoula, Facet, Crivelli
No comment: Coronet, Sutra, Butani




Baselworld 2018
Baselworld 2018

Tra gli stand di Baselworld
Tra i booth di Baselworld
Visitatori a Baselworld
Visitatori a Baselworld
Ingresso alla messe
Ingresso alla messe

Modella di Jacob & co
Modella di Jacob & co







The geometries of Riviére




The Savoir-vivre collection of the Roman Maison Riviére: geometries in gold and precious stones ♦ ︎
Riviére, a Roman Maison that has been back in the foreground from few years thanks to a new entrepreneurial impulse, has decided to present itself to the public with seven categories of collections: a Rule of Art, Savoir-faire, Allure, Timeless, Mandalay, Myriad and Savoir-vivre. The same style is common to all collections but, of course, with different ideas and paths. They range from the pearls that a couple of years ago have conquered the place of honor at the Couture Show, to jewelry like those of Savoir-vivre that focus on modern geometries made of white or pink gold, with the addition of diamonds or precious stones like rubies and sapphires. In short, the classic jewel revisited, rounded, made modern by curves that intersect or double without meeting. An exercise that would have pleased Moebius, but probably also like those who are not interested in geometric theorems, but look at simple, dear, inexhaustible vanity. On the other hand, we need savoir vivre. Lavinia Andorno




Anello doppio in oro rosa, diamanti e smeraldi
Anello doppio in oro rosa, diamanti e smeraldi

Riviére, orecchini in oro rosa e diamanti
Riviére, orecchini in oro rosa e diamanti
Orecchini in oro rosa, diamanti e smeraldi
Orecchini in oro rosa, diamanti e smeraldi
Orecchini in oro rosa, diamanti  e rubini
Orecchini in oro rosa, diamanti e rubini
Collana in oro rosa, diamanti e smeraldi
Collana in oro rosa, diamanti e smeraldi
Collana in oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri
Collana in oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti
ANVAL5035BWXX
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa, diamanti  e rubini
Anello in oro rosa, diamanti e rubini

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri