maharaja Archives | gioiellis.com

Sabyasachi, the maharaja of jewels

Published on January 17, 2024

Tomorrow’s jewelery of India is the same as yesterday’s India: the opulent jewelry by Sabyasachi ♦ ︎

“Ethnic wear for the global nomad”. Wear robe-related clothes in an increasingly global and moving world. Prophet of this wisdom is Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Indian fashion designer, of Kolkata. His collections of clothes give that opulence that is admired in old prints or vintage photographs: embroidered, baroque, rich fabrics. But it would be wrong to consider it as a simple stylist. He is, instead, a man of multiple interests as well as a designer. From food to culture, from movie (Bollywood) to literature: Sabyasachi is a sort of Renaissance character in Indian interpretation.
In 2008, the designer widened his work on jewelery.

Bracciale in oro con gemme e diamanti — Mangrove bracelet in gold with gems and diamonds

An example of his jewelery is the Mangrove bracelet, made in homage to the great Indian artisan tradition and to the various species of endangered trees found along the Ganges and in the mangroves of the Sundarbans. The bracelet has hand-engraved details and is made of 18k gold with multi-colored gemstones and diamonds. The back is studded with EF VVS VS graded diamonds.

Collana in oro con pietre dure — Gold necklace with semiprecious stones

But not fashion-jewelry, that is, jewelery produced in series, made with cheap materials and with embossed the brand. The collections of Sabyasachi are inspired by deep and precious India, rich in stones like diamonds and emeralds, but cut in a traditional way or, better, not cut with classic faceted shapes. Polki diamonds, like those used by the maharajas of a time, sewn on robes of nobles during the Moghul dynasty. In short, just look at these images (spread on Instagram) to make a dip in the depths of India’s most traditional. “Growing up, I spent hours digging in my mother’s and grandmother’s jewelery lockers. Their taste was simply delicious. Perhaps, that’s why I’m disappointed: where did all this art go?” So he thought about him to revive the tradition.

Collana della collezioe Tropic of Caluctta — Necklace from the Tropic of Calcutta collection

Collana con smeraldo intagliato, rubini, diamanti — Necklace with carved emerald, rubies, diamonds

Orecchini in oro e diamanti — Gold and diamond earrings

Orecchini in oro 18 carati, diamanti, opali — Earrings in 18k gold, diamonds, opals

Modella con abito, accessori e gioielli Sabyasachi — Model wearing Sabyasachi dress, accessories and jewelry

The fusion menu of Hanut Singh

Published on June 23, 2022

Showroom

Among India and the United States: Hanut Singh proposes jewels worthy of a maharaja (in fact his grandfather was an Indian king) ♦ ︎

India is the world’s largest gold market, the United States the most important for jewelry and Hanut Singh represents the two sides of this coin. The designer, nephew of an Indian maharaja, works in Los Angeles, where he brought his cultural heritage, but put at the service of the stars and stripes style. It is no coincidence that his clients include Diane von Furstenberg, Mary-Kate Olsen, Wendi Deng Murdoch, Beyoncé, Madonna and Christian Louboutin. Hanut’s passion for jewelry began when he was a child. He is a descendant of the royal family of Kapurthala, India, famous for its legendary treasures and their taste for luxury. The great-grandfather, Maharaja Jagatjit Singh, was a friend of the American president Theodore Roosevelt and the French statesman Georges Clemenceau.

And he has collected jewels, from a diadem of Cartier to a aigrette of Boucheron, which are part of the family collection. The long history of Hanut’s family also includes the grandmother, Maharani Sita Devi of Kapurthala, Princess Karam, known for the way she matched her jewels with her sari, the tailored suits by Chanel, Lanvin and Elsa Schiaparelli , defined in Vogue as a “goddess” in 1932 and photographed by Cecil Beaton. In short, it is not surprising that Hanut Singh prefers vintage pearls, with a slight patina of time, to be used with white gold and yellow gold, to create his jewels with an exotic taste, but at the same time so modern that they can be worn on a red carpet. And not only because the designer combines pieces of Indian influence with more geometric and linear elements that are typical of Western taste. If it were a chef would propose a fusion menu, in short.

Anello in oro, onice, smeraldo e diamanti

Anello con zaffiro rosa cabochon, perle e diamanti

Orecchini pendenti con acquamarina e rubini

Boucheron, high jewelry is inspired by the maharajas

Published on January 27, 2022

COLLANE/alta gioielleria/Showroom

Orecchini indossati della collezione Histoire de Style: New Maharajahs

The jewels of the maharajas are part of the collective imagination. And not only those that the kings of the various states that made up ancient India personally wore but, of course, also those of their wives, the maharanis. A charm that Boucheron‘s new high jewelery collection has decided to re-propose in Paris, on the occasion of the haute couture fashion shows. Then there is a story that is intertwined with the collection and concerns the Maharajah of Patiala, Bhupinder Singh, who in the 1920s went to Paris from India with a retinue of security guards and staff, took over 35 suites at the Ritz Paris and placed one of the most impressive jewelry orders of all time at Boucheron.

Collana trasformabile con nove smeraldi colombiani taglio cuscino del peso di quasi 40 carati e diamanti

He chose the gems (he had had some boxes brought from India). Those selected by Boucheron: 7,571 diamonds, 1,432 emeralds and many others, to create a collection of 149 jewels, in an original Indian Art Deco style. The designs from that collection have now been used or, rather, reinterpreted by Boucheron’s creative director, Claire Choisne, with the Histoire de Style: New Maharajahs high jewelery collection.

To maintain a style suitable for today, the designer had to reduce the scale of the pieces, since the jewels will be worn by women, not maharajas. One of the most spectacular pieces is a transformable necklace with nine cushion-cut Colombian emeralds weighing nearly 40 carats, along with rock crystal. The central motif of the necklace can be removed and worn as a brooch. The necklace also inspired the hoop earrings, with diamonds and emerald drops at the tip of each spoke. The collection also includes the New Maharani Set, with three necklaces in white gold, diamonds, rock crystal and pearls.

Girocollo in oro bianco, diamanti, cristallo di rocca, ispirato ai fiori di loro

Orecchini a cerchio, con diamanti e gocce di smeraldi sulla punta di ogni raggio

Collana con perle di smeraldo e diamanti

Uno dei disegni originali che hanno ispirato la nuova collezione di Boucheron

Christie’s success for the maharaja’s auction

Published on June 20, 2019

news

Devant-de-corsage epoca Belle Époque, Cartier, 1912. Venduto per 10,6 milioni

The jewels of the Maharajas of the Al Thani collection sold by Christie’s at an auction of 109 million dollars ♦ ︎

It seems that the era of the maharajas retains a great charm. And, in particular, they have fascinated the opulent jewels that were part of the celebrated Al Thani collection, emir of Qatar. Indeed, judging by the outcome of the Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence auction organized by Christie’s in New York, these jewels beat everyone. Thanks also to the tour organized by Christie’s in London, Shanghai, Geneva and Hong Kong, in addition to the New York exhibition, which welcomed 50,000 visitors.

The auction that included the jewels of Indian nobles ended after a 12-hour marathon. Result: sales of 109.3 million dollars (equal to 97.5 million euros), with 93% of the pieces sold. No wonder the auction has established the highest total for any sale of Indian and Mughal art objects, and the second highest auction total for a private jewelry collection.
The sale was presented in partnership between Christie’s jewelry department and the World Art department, together with the independent art consultancy The Fine Art Group.

Collana antica di spinello imperiale, perle e smeraldi

It’s worth going into detail: during the sale, three worldwide auction records for Indian works of art were touched and 29 lots were sold for over 1 million dollars. The top lot has been touched by a devant-de-corsage jewel (that is, worn on the chest), the Belle Époque era by Cartier, Paris, 1912, sold for 10.6 million to a private collector. Among the other lots that have reached top prices, there is also the Diamond of Paradise diamond, 52.58 carats, D Color, IF, which reached 6.5 million, while a dagger with carved jade handle, Lo Shah Jahan Dagger, was sold for 3.4 million, a record for an object of Indian jade and record for a piece Shah Jahan.

We are very honored to have been entrusted with this magnificent and diverse selection of jewels, art and objects from the larger Al Thani Collection. The strong results today, after twelve hours of non-stop bidding, in front of a packed room and with phone and online bidders from all over the world, reflect the exceptional quality of this special collection and position it among the most storied private collections ever featured at auction.
Guillaume Cerutti, CEO of Christie’s

Let’s go back to jewels: an ancient necklace of imperial spinel, pearls and emeralds was sold for 3 million, the Golconda Diamond Rivière necklace, from the collection of the Nizams of Hyderabad, which was sold for 2.4 million. And a necklace of emeralds Imperial Moghul Necklace and earrings, were sold for 1.9 million.

But the auction was not only occupied by the jewels of the maharajas. For example, all the contemporary pieces by Jar and Bhagat have been sold, far exceeding the estimates. Federico Graglia

L'asta Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence organizzata da Christie’s a New York — L’asta Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence organizzata da Christie’s a New York

Il diamante The Mirror of Paradise, 52,58 carati, D Color, IF, venduto per 6,5 milioni

Smeraldo scolpito con due montanti intercambiabili e diamanti di Cartier

Aigrette di diamanti e smalti di Mellerio dit Mellerio, venduto per 650.000 dollari

Fibbia per cintura di di Cartier con smeraldo, zaffiri e diamanti, Venduta per 1,5 milioni

Ornamento per turbante venduto per 1,8 milioni

Salvini’s Maharaja

Published on May 5, 2017

Showroom

Maharaja’s collection by Salvini: golden embroidery inspired by the Indian princes houses ♦

To indicate a rich person, is said to be like a maharaja. Princes and rulers of the ancient territories of India, particularly Rajasthan, have entered the collective imagination. So why not summon wealth through their image? That’s what Salvini (a Damiani Group brand) did with the Maharaja collection. No elephants or ethnic icons, though.
The collection is rather inspired by the architecture of the kings’ palaces, with jewelery details reminiscent of the lacework of capitals or bows, as in the multiple ring that resembles a embroidered gallery. The collection is available in all three gold colors, with more diamonds, sapphires and rubies. In short, the stones preferred by the maharaja. Between lace and ramage, with sinuous lines, there is also the classic paisley motif (as a comma inverted) that is a classic of oriental decoration. Prices: multiple rings cost around 7,000 euros, earrings on 6,700 euros. Alessia Mongrando

Tre diverse lavorazioni per gli orecchini a cerchio: i diamanti seguono l'intera circonferenza o solo metà, cambia anche il colore dell'oro — Tre diverse lavorazioni per gli orecchini a cerchio: i diamanti seguono l’intera circonferenza o solo metà, cambia anche il colore dell’oro

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti incolori — Salvini, anello in oro bianco e diamanti incolori

The collection Al Thani in Paris

Published on April 3, 2017

news

Agra, diamante rosa di 28.15 carati, che secondo la leggenda sarebbe stato offerto al Mughal Babur, fondatore dell'impero Moghul, quando ha conquistato la città di Agra, nel 1526

The great collection of Indian jewelry by Al Thani arrives in Paris, at Grand Palais.
The jewels of Sheikh Hamad bin Abdullah Al Thani, cousin of the Emir of Qatar, are arriving in Paris. After the exhibition in London, now even the people who go to the French capital can admire the pieces of the collection, centered particularly on the jewels of Indian origin, those of the mughal and maharajas.
A passion that was born in 2009, after Al Thani visited the Victoria & Albert Museum, where it was an ongoing an exhibition of jewels in past owned by Indian princes. And to think that in India Al Thani had never been there. But a powerfull bank account can solves everything: in five years the sheik has collected 400 pieces (in this exhibition there are 270): from imperial jewels to daggers, rings or decoration for turbans.
Now her jewelry will be on display at the Grand Palais, in an exhibition entitled Des grands moghols aux maharajahs (From the great Mughal to Maharaja: Indian jewels of the collection Al Thani). If you like the opulence, wealth, decorations, it is the show for you.

India is the birthplace of the great jewels, as well as the large precious stones. A story that perhaps begins in 1526, when Babur, a descendant of Genghis Khan, conquered Delhi and was proclaimed the first Mughal emperor: an Islamic dynasty that ruled over India for more than three centuries. The pure diamonds of Golconda, one of the Hyderabad region, have encouraged a passion for the great jewels. Because for the maharaja, each gem brought with it a part of divine energy, karma, which strengthens the wearer. In particular, were nine auspicious stones: ruby, topaz, cat’s eye, emerald, diamond, coral, pearls, yellow and blue sapphires.
And with the domination Mughal born the kundan technique, a type of seam that uses pure 24 carat gold. It went like this: you had to heat the gold to 200 degrees centigrade. thin metal strips were wrapped around a stone previously placed on wax cavity. To obtain a good result they wanted instinct and speed. You can see the result at Grand Palais.
Des grands Moghols aux Maharajahs
29 March – June 2017
Paris, Grand Palais, Salon d’Honneur
Open every day from 10 to 20h. Wednesday until 22h.
Closed on Tuesdays and May 1
Ticket: 13 or 9 € (16-25 years old, unemployed, large families).
Free for children under 16
Information and reservations www.grandpalais.frù

Bracciale con smalti traslucidi rossi e verde, tipico di Jaipur. Circa 1750

Spilla in platino con smeraldi e diamanti

Spilla per cappello con diamanti e rubini

Gioiello per Turbante del 19esimo secolo, Jaipur o Hyderabad, in oro, argento e diamanti e spinelli, con ciondolo smaltato

Collezione Al Thani, spilla per turbante con perle e diamanti

Turban (sarpesh). India del Sud, probabilmente Hyderabad. Set in oro con smeraldi e diamanti