Who on the beach, at least once, hasn’t collected shells? However, it is unlikely that this passion has turned into a profession like for Renna Brown-Taher. In truth, the designer no longer only collects shells but she creates them in the form of jewels. Perhaps her luck was to be born in southern California, near the sea. Two shells collected as a child, many years later, were used by Renna’s mother for a bracelet, a gift for her art degree.
The bracelet was followed by a gemology certificate and a master’s degree from Sotheby’s Institute of Art, where she worked for five years, not to mention her passion for dance, which she practiced for a long time. In 2017 the big leap with her own brand Renna Jewels, made with 100% recycled 18-karat gold in New York, where the designer moved. And the shells? They have not disappeared from the horizon. Indeed, they are represented in a large number of jewels, even if they are not the only source of inspiration. 18-karat gold, but also hand-carved gems, such as labradorite or agate, are transformed into jewel-shells, and allow you to stay at the sea all year round.
Marija Iva want conquering New York City
A new brand is born in New York, a city that is an inexhaustible factory of talent and adventure, protagonists of many films. This time the protagonist of the American dream is Marija Iva Djordjevic, Serbian jewelry designer, based in Tribeca and the Hamptons. Her jewelery brand, Marija Iva, is also presented online, with the website MarijaIva.com. The designer has already completed several collections: Dana, Eden, Éternel, Hmptons and Divine, including religious symbols, gold and precious and semi-precious stones, such as turquoise. Pendants, bracelets and earrings with snakes, stars and crosses are interpreted in a minimalist version.
Marija Iva Djordjevic studied art in Belgrade and Paris. She spent a period in Geneva, where she worked for twelve years as a senior jewelry designer for Piaget. Strengthened by this experience and the desire for new possibilities, she moved to New York City.
We all strive to incorporate beauty and deeper meaning into our daily lives, and that is what I ultimately hope to achieve with Marija Iva jewelry. Design for modern women who appreciate nuanced, understated and timeless jewelery of the highest quality that can be worn with confidence every single day.
Marija Iva Djordjevic
The designer designs each piece herself, starting with a pencil sketch on paper in her sketchbook to refine her ideas, before completing a scale rendering of the piece using the gouache technique. An expert over-the-counter jeweler herself, she works closely with French jewelery partners to handcraft each piece.
The combination of technology and jewelery is not usual. But it is the marriage that undersigned Vikas Sodhani founder and CEO of the start-up Stealth Startup which deals with automation processes, but also with Ila, a Texan jewelery brand. The name Ila, however, is that of her sister (who has a degree in economics) with whom she shared the initiative. Born in Rajastahn, India, they have an unusual history behind them. His father, Vasu, a nuclear engineer, took the family to the USA, Houston and then New Jersey. But the most surprising aspect is the decision to become diamond traders.
In short, the combination of technology and jewelry was already a family affair. In 2007 the two brothers decided to launch their own Maison. With good success, given that the jewels are sold in stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue or on online platforms. Despite the different backgrounds, both brothers are engaged in creative activity, without losing harmony. Also because Vikas, before dealing with hi-tech start-ups, was an apprentice in a diamond cutting factory in India, where he learned the arts of jewelery design.
Amalfi, a small Italian city overlooking the sea of the Gulf of Salerno, surrounded by spectacular cliffs. In the 1920s and 1930s, Amalfi was a popular tourist destination for the British upper class and aristocracy. But it has retained its charm, in Italy and abroad, as suggested by the Amalfi collection signed by the German high-end jewelery house Stenzhorn. Landscapes, flavours, suggestions of the ancient maritime republic (between about 839 and 1200) were the source of inspiration for the collection.
The collection consists of necklaces, rings and earrings. All Stenzhorn jewels are made from precious rubies, sapphires and emeralds to sparkling diamonds. The shapes are sinuous and elongated, with a geometry that recalls marquise-cut diamonds, as if they were eyes. But also like the leaves of the lemon trees, which are found in Amalfi. The diamonds set, however, are brilliant cut.
We invite you to take a journey with us along the winding coastal roads of the Amalfi Coast and discover the hidden azure bays and colorful villages. With Amalfi, clients can feel the beauty of nature, the harmony, lightness and inner peace that this region reflects.
Chris Stenzhorn, Sales Director of Stenzhorn
The evolution of the ring by Arielle Ratner
From the world of dance practiced as a child she took the lightness. From that of jewelry, the art of combining metal and gems. From that of the economy, the ability to build one’s own business: Arielle Ratner has solid training in the precious sector, but only a couple of years ago she decided to take the field personally in the difficult New York market. The result is excellent.
Raised in Pennsylvania, the designer studied jewelry in various schools in the New York City area, but already at the age of 14 she was selling her first bijoux made with plastic and glass beads. Then, she studied CAD design and gemology, worked for David Yurman and for a contract manufacturer who also supplies jewelry to Tiffany & Co. A complete experience, in all aspects of jewelry, which helped her decide on the big step , that is to offer jewels with his signature.
One of Arielle Ratner’s toughest challenges was to create perfect rings for engagement, but at the same time different from the classic solitaire. In her case, this objective was achieved with work on the design of the frame, which is not a simple gold circle, but follows elaborate evolutions. Alongside the rings intended for special events, the designer offers jewels that center on large semi-precious gems with delicate shades, such as aquamarine, tourmaline or peridot.
There are not many Houses that can boast a history longer than a kingdom. One of the few is Leyser, which has its roots in the time of Louis XIV, known as Louis the Great or Sun King (1638-1715). Even then the Leyser family was active in the stone and jewelery trade, today based in Idar-Oberstein, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany, where the stones are cut, polished and set. But the brand also has showrooms in London, Basel and Lecco, on Lake Como. Today the company, which in its current form dates back to the early twentieth century, is led by Sebastian Leyser, together with his father Thomas. And it is needless to underline that such a long history is the result of attention to the quality of the product, that is, of the jewels.
Leyser jewels are also produced on behalf of other prestigious brands. At the center of the jewels there is almost always a gem of particular intensity, such as paraiba tourmaline, opals or tanzanites. The cut accompanies the design in order to provide the best result: the entire production process is carried out in the laboratories in Idar-Oberstein, the jewels are then sold all over the world. And who knows for how long.
The diamond jewels worn by Rihanna
Rihanna’s return to the stage in a live performance after six years, on the occasion of Super Bowl LVII, was widely commented, starting from her surprise at her pregnancy. For the 13-minute show, the singer wore three pieces designed to measure by Jonathan Anderson, creative director of the Spanish brand Loewe. The red sneakers are the result of Maison Margiela’s collaboration with sports shoe brand Salomon.
Maxi down jacket with integrated gloves is instead by Alaïa, the brand founded by the late Tunisian couturier Azzedine Alaïa. However, the song sung at the end, Diamonds, was the most apt: the Barbadian singer showed up with a series of diamond-based jewels by the Parisian maison Messika. On stage in Arizona, in front of about 190 million spectators, Rihanna chose some of Messika’s high jewelry earrings: a single Illusionnistes mono earring broken into three parts, Equilibristes clips, another Magnetic Love mono earring, jewels from the Diamond Equalizer collection , diamond clip from the Illusionistes line. The right choice for a brilliant performance.
A master’s degree in Venice on the art of jewellery
Learn the art of jewelry in a city that is a work of art: Venice. In the most extraordinary city in the world, goldsmithing is a tradition that dates back to its foundation. The lagoon goldsmith shops are linked to the art of glass, gold leaf and paper. From this tradition the idea of a Contemporary Jewelery Design Master was born in Venice, which aims to deepen knowledge through the entire supply chain: from the historical-theoretical training of manufactures, techniques and materials to design, from laboratory production to market strategies, such as the identification of trends and the visual communication of the finished product.
The Master offers the contribution of the leading Italian experts in the sector, able to provide the necessary basic planning, laboratory and marketing preparation. The topics on the program are Design Jewellery, Artist Jewellery, Research Jewellery, Jewelery and Goldsmithing, Costume Jewellery, Jewelery for the Fashion System, Scene Jewellery. Anyone who has obtained a Bachelor’s degree under the old system or, vice versa, a Bachelor’s degree under the new system can access the First Level Master’s without any age limit.
In the selection ranking, priority will be given to students graduates in the Jewelery sector and in the fields of Art (painting, sculpture, architecture, graphics), Restoration, Design, Fashion and Theater (costume and scenography). The Master will begin in November 2023 and includes 1,500 hours of lessons (795 of which in presence), in which to acquire broad historical and theoretical skills on manufacturing, techniques, materials, design, laboratory production. But also market strategies such as the identification of trends and the visual communication of the finished product.
All this by creating specific paths that show all the types, characteristics and professional opportunities of the entire sector. The master will end in May 2024, when the 275-hour internships in the company and the final preparation of the thesis will start. The Master is limited in number, with a maximum of 20 participants and the selection is foreseen to evaluate the candidates: with the same curriculum, students from the courses of the Academy of Fine Arts in Venice will take precedence. The “Master Design of Contemporary Jewelery” will be activated with a minimum of 15 participants at a single cost of 3,500 euros.
Shells and diamonds, the Aron & Hirsch formula
From Brazil to the tribes living along the Omo Valley, southern Ethiopia: the bond that brought Aron & Hirsch to Africa is unusual, where she found inspiration for their jewelry worn by women who live that remote region. The Brazilian brand, based in Sao Paulo and Rio De Janeiro, has developed jewels that focus on the contrast of precious stones, such as emeralds, diamonds, topazes, coral, turquoise, peridot, jade, and shells. In short, a contamination between luxury and ethnic traditions.
The Maison, founded in 2011 by friends Taísa Hirsch and Sandra Aron, focuses on wearable but also original jewels. Passionate about stones, Taísa and Sandra have decided to unleash irreverence and creativity, together with the care for the quality of the jewels. Taísa deals with stones, thanks to training at the Gia (Gemological Institute of America), while Sandra has put her experience in the business to good use. The combination has convinced a good number of celebrities, such as Kate Moss.
Gigi Ferranti, jewels-architecture in Brooklyn
The classical architectural lines merged in the jewelery of Gigi Ferranti ♦ ︎
The name is Gigi Ferranti, but her name is Gina. No gender confusion: Gina Ferranti is the designer who founded the Gigi Ferranti brand, in Brooklyn, New York. The designer has Italian origins, but is now perfectly American, even if she does not forget her childhood. She started working in the fashion industry, but then graduated in gemology and worked for David Yurman, precisely in the selection of quality control of stones. An activity that has served a lot for its jeweler activity, which began in 2015.
Gina defines herself as a Renaissance woman, because she has many passions and many skills.
For example, she is an expert in architecture, and in her jewelry she transfers some of the geometric lines typical of the structure of the buildings, in particular the classical ones, with pediments and columns. She loves the classic style, whether it is the ancient Greece or the architecture of Palladio. Needless to say, he loves symmetry and care of proportions. Another aspect that loves is the ability to stack the jewels. The rings with the zigzag profile are an example.
The Italian goldsmith and jewelry industry are already projected towards the future. Alongside the traditional craftsmanship, new ways of producing are advancing, which use the most advanced technologies, as evidenced by the history of Progold. The company from Trissino (Vicenza) is able to create 3D jewels in 18-karat gold, titanium and platinum. The jewels are designed with software programs and Progold takes care of printing the jewel. Simple, as long as the designer has the necessary skills. To encourage the dissemination of this knowledge, the company has been organizing a design contest for years. The 2023 edition (the award ceremony is scheduled for Vicenzaoro on Sunday 22 January) also sees the collaboration with Chaumet and Platinum Guild International.
The goal of the new competition is to reinterpret an icon of the Chaumet brand through the use of 3D printing. Competing were the students of IED, Escuela Joyerìa de Còrdoba, Escuela Técnica de Joyerìa del Atlantico, Centro de Estudios Joyeros de Madrid (Spain), GIC – Gemmological Institute China University of Geosciences (China). The winners were respectively Naomi Cappabianca of the IED – Istituto Europeo di Design of Turin (technical jury) and Erardo Ruy Herrera García of the Escuela Joyerìa de Córdoba (public jury).
Digital jewelry printing was science fiction 20 years ago, it was an experiment with questionable results ten years ago, it’s a reality today. The technologies for making real jewels capable of keeping up with those obtained with the traditional technique are different. One of these is the one presented at TGold, a fair combined with Vicenzaoro by 3DZ, a company from Castelfranco Veneto (Treviso) founded in 2010 and specialized in consultancy on the adoption of 3D printing in companies and in the sale of world brands of 3D printers and scanners. At Vicenzaoro 3DZ presented printers capable of what are defined as technical miracles. These are the 2500Wax, the Figure 4 Jewelry and the Demi 430, novelties for the post-processing of 3D printed pieces.
The novelty concerns the post-processing. It is a new automated system for the removal of wax supports from 3D printed pieces: Demi 430, a machine from the Post Process company. The machine allows a new method of cleaning wax models, safer, faster, with reduced manual intervention and quality results. The 3D printing technologies presented by the company for the creation of jewelry and accessories include MJP 2500 Wax and Figure4 Jewelry by 3D Systems, a world leader in the production of 3D printers for the jewelry sector. And then the 3D printing materials for jewellery, waxes and resins, in particular Visijet Wax Red Jewel, 100% meltable, elastic and resistant wax for any type of design, including watermarks and very thin thicknesses. The new material was created for the compact, fast, high resolution and high yield MJP 2500 Wax 3D printer. Figure 4 Jewelry, on the other hand, is the ultra-fast resin 3D printer for direct casting models and master models for rubber molds; Micropoint holders are easy to remove, for a smooth surface finish and reduced post-machining.
Stenzhorn shines with Viva
One of the most prestigious German jewelery houses, Stenzhorn, is launching a new collection dedicated to luxury and design. The refined shapes and the search for ever new volumes are, in fact, a characteristic of the jewelery brand, a German creator of luxury jewelery and watches founded in 1979 by the Stenzhorn brothers in Boppard. The collection has an Italian and Latin name at the same time: Viva, a word that means something or someone who is alive, but also active and with a brilliant character.
This collection aims to express the versatility of a woman. Women have an elegant, graceful and soft side. But they’re also witty and confident and have this fire and power to their looks. It is not for nothing that we have chosen the combination of rose gold-white enamel and white gold-red enamel to express this complexity. Today women are no longer supposed to fit in, but live life to the fullest.
Chris Stenzhorn, Director of Sales
The jewels are presented in two versions, in gold and diamonds with a touch of red or white enamel. The design is characterized by sharp angles, but also by sinuous curves. Each of the two lines includes earrings, ring, bracelet and necklace with choker chain or pendant.
Jewels to wear in the office or, more generally, in the workplace. Have you ever thought about it? Every place, every situation, every environment requires suitable clothing. And this also applies to jewelry. If you work in an insurance company would you chose of showing up in the same outfit you wear to go to the beach? Hard. And, in any case, it would not be judged favorably by your colleagues. Even for jewels the theme is the same: they must be suitable for the office.
Of course, not all offices are the same. Working in a bank is not like serving in a creative advertising firm. Going to the administrative offices of a commercial company every morning is different from the desk of a record company. In short, it is clear that it is not possible to code a jewelry label that is valid for all workplaces. But, in any case, jewelry etiquette provides tips that can always be applied.
Beware of symbols
Necklaces and bracelets with pendants are very fashionable. And, often, the charms represent very common symbols: a heart, the lucky four-leaf clover, a star. But there are also those who choose pendants that have a less generic meaning. For example, the marijuana leaf. Even though it is completely legal in some countries, demonstrating enthusiasm for cannabis use may not necessarily be welcome in more traditional environments. The same goes for symbols concerning politics, social or gender choices: all legitimate, of course, but not always accepted by everyone. So, if you want to wear those symbols, know that in an office they can raise concerns. To you the choice. The same goes for dark or punk jewels, with skulls and studs: wear them for free time if the office is very traditional.
Noisy jewelry
The tinkling bracelets go unnoticed on the beach or in the club. In a quiet office they will be louder than the trumpeting of an elephant. Jewelery that makes a clanging clatter can disturb colleagues especially if the work being done requires concentration. Better to avoid too many stacked bracelets that bang together.
Keep a low profile
In the office there is no need to exhibit modesty and humility. But it is good to remember that humiliating colleagues, even indirectly, is not a way to attract sympathy. And this is all the more true for one’s superior, even more so if it is a woman, more sensitive and attentive to the signals transmitted with clothing and jewelry. In short, don’t wear jewels that are so precious as to arouse the envy of others. The jewels must be compatible, from the point of view of their value, with the job performed and the work environment. So, leave your diamond necklace at home and wear a simple string of pearls.
Mini better than maxi
In a traditional office, large jewels attract attention and seem disproportionate. You’re not in the club: wear stud earrings instead of those pendants that reach over the shoulders and sway all the time. A simple gold ring is better than the one with many colored stones.
Turn off the reflections
Everyone likes the sparkle of a small diamond. A large jewel covered in rhinestones will sparkle like strobe lights at a birthday party – you could blind your coworkers.
Few but fine
Less is more. While this doesn’t always apply, it sure does apply in the office. Don’t dress up as a Christmas tree: choose a few jewels and don’t wear them all at the same time: watch or bracelet, a single ring, a pair of earrings and, if you really want to exaggerate, even a simple necklace.
The ancient but new jewels by Chris Davies
The unique pieces by Chris Davies, a New York designer who uses ancient techniques for his jewelery ♦ ︎
In New York there is a jewel artist who loves to discover and use ancient processing techniques. It is, sure, an attitude not widespread in the city that more than any other is a symbol of dynamism, change, speed. Chris Davies, however, in college has studied ancient civilizations and art history. When he become a jeweler, he decided to combine his passions and creates pieces made up of hundreds of tiny 18-karat gold beads (the granulation technique used in ancient Greece), or he creates jewels with the cloisonné technique, a particular enamelling, difficult realization, which dates back to ancient Egypt, was in vogue during the Byzantine Empire and more recently in China. Technique that used for the recent collection, Silk Road.
An art form which, he explained, will soon disappear, because only the oldest artisans are still able to use. Or Davies weaves 18-karat gold pearls on steel wires. Each piece, he explains, takes two to six months to complete. There are also jewels made of rare stones, selected for their particular shape or appearance: tourmalines, demantoids, citrines (but green), moonstones (but peach-colored), sapphires (but orange) and so on. An example is the Delos necklace, made with the 18-carat white gold granulation technique, hematite, white topaz and blue-green amethyst. Prices? Chris Davies’ jewels are unique pieces, like the price of his jewels: on average from 10,000 to 20,000 dollars.
The jewels dedicated to Christmas
The jewels dedicated to Christmas: to wear every year for at least ten days
There are jewels that can only be worn at Christmas, immediately before or immediately after. Of course, in spring it is not forbidden to choose a necklace that has as a pendant Santa Claus, but you could be mistaken for a dormouse that has just woken up from hibernation. The Christmas theme, with stars, poinsettia (the plant commonly called Christmas Star), snowflakes or packages that symbolize the gifts, is quite common. But, before buying a jewel dedicated to the most celebrated festival in the West, think about it: you can wear it only for a dozen days a year.
Any case, there are many Maison, even high-end jewelry, that have dedicated some pieces to Christmas.
For example, the Rose de Noël series by Van Cleef & Arpels. Or the Christmas tree with Mikimoto pearl. Tiffany, instead, proposes a pendant in the shape of a gift bag, in the classic blue color of the Maison. But perhaps the most refined of all is the London ring Garrard, in rose gold and diamonds, shaped like a bow. Years ago Oscar Herman instead dedicated a platinum brooch with diamonds to Santa Claus, while Chanel proposed a comet-shaped necklace.
The Hieroglyphic Jewels of Dyne
Her name is long, like the story it represents: Sarah Ysabel Dyne Narici. She is a designer who lives and works in New York, the daughter of a physiology professor and an Anglo-Singaporean biochemist. She grew up in Milan but she moved to England when she was ten. She attended Saint Martins in London, where she graduated in Jewelery Design and, subsequently, she graduated from Gia in New York. Before founding her own brand, which is called Dyne, her maternal surname, she worked for Maisons such as Alexander McQueen, Stephen Webster, Marina B and Lorraine Schwartz. In short, you have accumulated many experiences and cultures. Her little Maison is only a couple of years old, yet her jewelry style is already celebrated in fashion magazines.
In fact, the jewels created by the designer stand out immediately, because they are also encrypted messages. Or, more precisely, they have a series of icons engraved on the surface, in the style of ancient Egypt. In short, they are hieroglyphs, but supplied without a Rosetta stone to decipher their meaning. However, they are quite original and, in intention, constitute a sort of bridge between the past and the future. In any case, rings and medals with hieroglyphics are not the only production of Dyne, which also offers custom-made wedding rings, or jewels with a careful selection of high quality gems.
Yun Yun Sun, an influencer for Bloomingdales
From Taiwan to the windows of Bloomingdales, a chain of department stores born in New York City. It is the journey of the independent jewelry brand Yun Yun Sun. The brand is also considered Aapi, an abbreviation that stands for Asian American and Pacific Islander and describes the population (about 23 million) of Americans of 50 ethnic groups and with roots in more than 40 Villages. The Maison was founded by designer Aimee Yun Yun Sun, who is also a model and influencer in Asia, as evidenced by her Instagram profile. Fashion, pop culture and jewellery: the brand’s style plays on these aspects.
Yun Yun Sun’s choice to create two different lines of fashion and fine jewelry derives from this philosophy. Therefore, it creates jewels in gold and diamonds, but also in plated metal and cubic zirconia. The jewels often have very marked volumes, with geometric shapes, such as the choice of the octagonal silhouette for the Galena collection. Obviously the two genres have different prices. The brand was launched in 2016 and quickly gathered a following among influencers such as Yoyo Cao, Shu Qi, Chriselle Lim, Aimee Song, Sammi Cheng, Elva Hsiao. A popularity that has rebounded in America on the Bloomingdales online platform.
The simple truth of Shihara
The world is divided into two: those who love elaborate jewels with large colored gems and those who love simple and no-frills geometries. The Japanese jewelry designer Yuta Ishihara, inspirer of the Maison Shihara, belongs to this second category. Indeed more. Because her jewels amaze with the desire not to exhibit richness or unusual shapes. In reverse. For example, Shihara offers an eternity ring that has diamonds inside the gold band. In short, when you wear the ring, diamonds are not seen: only the wearer knows. The ultimate in modesty and minimal philosophy.
Not only. Shihara also uses simple but unusual shapes, such as the open cube-shaped earring, which seems to float on the ear and is available in different sizes. Yellow gold and diamonds are the basis of the designer’s work. But there are also Akoya pearls: in this case the philosophy of subtraction pushes Yuta Ishihara to cover half of the sphere with a gold patina. The result is a jewel with half a pearl.
Raised in Yamanashi, a prefecture in Japan renowned for its jewelry production, the designer moved to Tokyo, a dynamic city that inspired the geometric shapes of her collections. And also destined to last a long time, according to Yuta’s wish, because beautiful and simple things are those that are handed down.
Vittorio B., from Valenza to New York
Vittorio B. That is Vittorio Bassan, an Italian jeweler born in the cradle of fine jewelry, Valenza Po, Piedmont, but who moved to New York. The jeweler grew up in a district where jewelery was the main activity: his mother, father and seven uncles created jewelery in the family workshop. However, he decided to take flight: he obtained a Master of Fine Arts in jewelry design and production, began an apprenticeship as a gemstone setter in the family business and began designing jewelry, handcrafting original and customized pieces .
Vittorio then moved to Los Angeles to explore the American luxury market and won over several clients. In 2013 he caught the attention of Van Cleef & Arpels. So he decided to work in the flagship store on Fifth Avenue in New York. An experience that also taught the designer the commercial aspects of the jeweler’s business and that prompted him to found his own brand, Vittorio B. The Italian designer launched his jewelry line Fit For Life Jewels in 2018, which uses its patented extendable jewelry system, with links and an internal spring in titanium or stainless steel mounted internally to obtain rings and bracelets that adapt to the size of the fingers and the wrist.