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Nature and art jewels in London

Published on November 21, 2021

Wallace Chan, Spring of Life, anello con diamanti gialli, tsavorite, pearle, occhio di gatto, su titanio

Cop26 was held in Glasgow, Scotland. In London, however, Elisabetta Cipriani’s gallery organized another summit, but in this case it is the jewelry that answers questions about the environment. Until November 27, in fact, the gallery hosts the Force of Nature exhibition curated by Melanie Grant, which brings together the work of 17 jewelers and designers who play with the relationship between precious materials and the environment. They are all special jewels, which represent a bridge between jewelry and art. For example, Wallace Chan, Jaqueline Rabun, James de Givenchy, Satta Maturi, Ute Decker, Fabio Salini, Liv Luttrell, Grima, Bibi Van Der Velde and Melanie Eddy.

Even if the theme is the relationship of art with jewelry and nature, not all the jewels on display have shapes that can be immediately traced back to natural ones. In some cases the relationship is more conceptual than naturalistic. In fact, what the designer or artist wanted to interpret with her jewel counts a lot. There are also special pieces such as those by Wallace Chan, including Spring of Life, a 2019 ring with yellow diamonds, tsavorite, pearle, cat’s eye, on titanium: sometimes art surpasses nature.

Melanie Grant, bracciale in bronzo e diamanti

Bibi Van Der Velde, orecchini ant, in oro giallo e tsavoriti

Fabio Salini, collana Cappio in fibra di carbonio, diamanti, perle di acqua dolce

Francesca Grima, collana con conchiglia Ammonite fossile, diamanti e oro

Lydia Courteille, anello in oro 18 carati, tsavorite, giada, peridoto, smeraldi

Satta Matturi, orecchini in oro 18 carati, diamanti, rodolite, onice

The Grima revolution continues

Published on July 4, 2019

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Anello con tormalina verde e diamanti, Francesca Grima

The new jewels of the historic London Maison Grima presented at the Masterpiece London ♦

The yellow gold Scarab brooch with carved rubies and diamond decorations is one of the favorite jewels of Queen Elizabeth, who often wears it on her left shoulder. It is a gift from Prince Philip and was designed and made by Andrew Grima in 1966.

La regina Elisabetta con la spilla Scarab di Grima, assieme al principe Filippo

Born in Rome in 1921, but raised in London, Andrew Grima was an Anglo-Italian designer who became known as the dean of modern jewelry design in Britain. He passed away in 2007, but his artistic legacy passed to his wife Jojo and daughter Francesca, who did not betray the spirit of the Maison. Indeed, the new works of the Maison Grima appear every year at the Masterpiece London Fair.

Anello in oro con ametista e diamanti di Jojo Grima, 2014

The Financial Times compared Andrew Grima to Jackson Pollock, which means breaking with any formalism to seek maximum freedom of expression. He was one of the first jewelers, in fact, to consider semi-precious stones on a par with the most celebrated ones. Tourmalines, quartz and opals have been chosen as the protagonists of many pieces of fine jewelry.

Andrew Grima, anello in oro con citrino e diamanti, 1969

Grima was a genius, and according to some, he was the most important English jeweler of the last century, creator of an immediately recognizable aesthetic, very imitated. It was the London of the Sixties, between the rock revolution and Mary Quant. The story tells of how Grima, who worked in his father-in-law’s jewelry, convinced his wife’s father in 1948 to buy a suitcase of large Brazilian stones, such as aquamarine, citrines, tourmalines and raw amethysts, proposed by two South American merchants. That was his take-off track towards the jewelry revolution. Margherita Donato

Una pubblicità degli anni Sessanta di Canada Dry con Andrew Grima

orecchini oro diamanti jojo 2018 — Orecchini in oro e diamanti di Jojo Grima, 2018

Orecchini in oro e diamanti di Jojo Grima, 2015

Orologio Groenlandia disegnato per Omega nel 1970

Anello con quarzi fumé, Francesca Grima 2018 — Anello con quarzi fumé, Francesca Grima
2018

Spilla con agata geode, ANdrew Grima, 2006

Masterpieces, high jewelry in London

Published on June 28, 2019

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Cindy Chao, la collana The Art Jewel Emerald Architectural

High jewelry at the Masterpieces London fair: from Boghossian to Cindy Chao, Chatila, Grima … Here are the exhibitors ♦ ︎

From June 27 to July 3, in an exceptionally flushed London, Masterpieces London returns, an antique fair, arts and great jewels. In addition to the jewels of the time, also in this edition the high contemporary jewelry is not missing. Among the Maison present, for example, there is Boghossian, the sixth generation of jewelers based in Geneva, strong in the long Armenian tradition, with a passion for researching and treating rare gems around the world. La Maison is known for its innovative craftsmanship, which requires exceptional mastery techniques to contribute to the art of jewelry, as with the Inlay, Kissing and Merveilles collections.

Boghossian, orecchini Kissing, con fancy intense pink diamond

Another jewel of the artist at Masterpieces London is Cindy Chao, who has kept the ancient European technique of lost wax. At the London fair she presents two collections of Art Jewel products, the Masterpieces Black Label masterpieces and the White Label Collection, both sought after by the most demanding connoisseurs at international auctions. The Royal Butterfly Brooch was adopted by the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington DC in 2010.

Black Label Masterpiece II. Spilla Marguerite, con smeraldo cabochon, diamanti fancy, tsavoriti, lacca su titanio

But the names of great Maison at Masterpieces London are several, such as Chatila, Eliane Fattal, Grima, Fabio Salini, Van Cleef & Arpels, Verdura, Wartski. A great opportunity for lovers of fine jewelry. Federico Graglia

Cindy Chao, spilla Black Label Royal Feather, con zaffiri, diamanti bianchi e fancy, titanium

Chatila, collana con diamanti briolette e smeraldi

Wartski, talismano a forma di mano in cristallo di rocca intagliato e smalto

Cartier queen at Sotheby’s

Published on August 21, 2017

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Spilla con zaffiri, rubini e diamanti di Cartier, 1960

In London, from Sotheby’s, the auctions come back with Cartier’s 1940s and 1950s pieces ♦ ︎
Jewelery auctions are back for fans of vintage pieces and for those who want to take some good blow. In London on September 20, Sotheby’s opens the new season’s dances with a very interesting jewelery sale. In the catalog there are, in fact, a number of Cartier pieces of the forties and fifties. In short, a good way to celebrate the arrival of the fall. They are jewels that use the register of naturalism, in vogue during the postwar period. Some are set using topaz with yellow and sherry color, but also citrines. The sale also includes a selection of jewels from notable 20th-century designers such as Grima, Pol Bury and Mosheh Oved, as well as pieces of Van Cleef, Bulgari and Boucheron and an eclectic mix of jewels from Edwardian and Art Deco periods. Federico Graglia

Andrew Grima star in London

Published on July 26, 2017

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Stepping Stones, orologio-gioiello di Andrew Grima in oro e acquamarina. in asta da Bonhams

In September in auction by Bonhams in London 55 jewels designed by Andrew Grima ♦ ︎
Everything is ready for the new season of autumn auctions. On September 20th in London, the largest private collection of jewels dedicated to the Andrew Grima brand has been launched. To sell jewels comes the Bonhams auction house.
The charismatic Anglo-Italian jeweler Andrew Grima has been considered one of the most audacious and imaginative designers of the last century. He has been the reference jeweler for real, celebrity, socialite and artist during the legendary sixties and seventies. Her Majesty The Queen, Princess Margaret, Jackie Kennedy Onassis and the bond girl Ursula Andress were among her clients. Among his jewelery collectors today are designers such as Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada.
Grima was inspired by art, sculpture and the natural world, injecting a desperate need for originality and glamor in a stagnant, jewelery atmosphere of Great Britain at the time. He has created bold and unusual jewels whose laity value in their aesthetic composition and not just in the weight of carats of the stones used.
The collection, which will be sold by Bonhams, includes 55 jewels designed by Andrew Grima with some of the first pieces made in London in the 1960s and a selection from its most splendid period in the Seventies plus some special jewels in the Nineties and the latest products before death, in 2007.
There are also the clocks of the About Time collection for Omega, one of the most innovative, as well as works of the Rock Revival collection, with unusual cuts of precious stones.
After Andrew’s death, Maison’s work continues with the widow, Jojo, and her daughter Francesca. A number of lots for sale were exhibited at Grima’s retrospective exhibition held in London in 1991. Federico Graglia
Also read The latest from Grima

Grima, anello in oro, diamanti e citrino

The last news from Grima

Published on June 26, 2017

Showroom

Francesca Grima, anello Arabesque in oro e diamanti

The new jewelry by Maison Grima showed at Masterpiece London ♦ ︎
Every year the Maison Grima produces 20 to 30 new pieces. Few, no doubt, but it is the tradition of the brand created by Andrew Grima in the 1960s to reduce the novelties. Only to few expert goldsmiths are entrusted with the designs and the realization of the jewels that are now being carried by the wife of the designer of Italian origin, which became Londoner. Many pieces are now classic that are replicated from time to time, and other pieces are added. They all have the same denominator: they can only be viewed by appointment or at Masterpiece London, the yearly fair dedicated to art, antiquety and to selection of old or new high quality jewelery. Even 2017 was no exception and Maison Grima presented a mix of classics and novelties, that is, pieces designed by Andrew Grima and those designed by his wife Jojo and the daughter Francesca. Like the Arabesque ring, which manages to use a modern styling key in a context that, who knows why, recalls the seventies.
Read also: Grima the ongoing revolution

Andrew Grima, anello con rubini e diamanti del 1967

Anello Gherkin di Francesca Grima, oro giallo e quarzo fumé. Si ispira a un'architettura di Norman Foster — Anello Gherkin di Francesca Grima, oro giallo e quarzo fumé. Si ispira a un’architettura di Norman Foster

Collana del 1972, Supergusci collection, conchiglia con oro e diamanti

Collana Lei, oro e diamanti, vincitrice nel 1965 del concorso De Beers

Orecchini in oro giallo e diamanti di Jojo Grima, 2015

Andrew Grima, anello in oro e perla 1970

Orecchini in oro bianco e giallo di Jojo Grima, 2016

Masterpiece of jewelery in London

Published on June 23, 2017

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Wallache Chan, Damask Silk. Diamanti trillion, tormalina rosa, diamanti fancy, zaffiro rosa, agata bianca

Back to Masterpiece London, art, antiques, but also many jewelries ♦ ︎
Masterpiece London (June 29 – July 5) is one of the highlights for those who love art and antiques. And the jewels. The fair brings together 150 of the best galleries and specialists around the world, and attracts 40,000 visitors on average. As mentioned, there are also jewels and jewelers, with pieces of antiquity, but also new creations. There are Maison like Grima and Hammerle who choose to be present only here in London and Tefaf. From Wallace Chan to Van Cleef & Arpels, from Boghossian to Cartier, Boucheron, Jar and Fabergé, you can find the most interesting pieces with Wartski, Symbolic & Chase, Verdura, Hancocks and SJ Phillips. As always, there there is jewelery created by painters and sculptors, such as Calder, or jewelry that can represent a bridge between different disciplines, such as those of Theo Fennell. Here are some of the most interesting pieces that are present in the exhibition catalog. Federico Graglia

Spilla del 19esimo secolo a forma di ape, con topazi o rosa, diamanti e smeraldi

Bracciale di Louis Osman in argento e turchese, 1968

Bracciale di Boghossian con diamanti e perle

Bracciale di Cartier a forma di due tigri

Collier in oro e diamanti, Afro Basaldella, 1955

Bracciale in platino con diamanti e rubini attribuito a Ruser, 1940

Orecchini in oro, diamanti e granati, firmati Grima

Van Cleef & Arpels, bracciale e clip in oro e diamanti, 1935

Wallache Chan, Bliss and Peace, collana. Una boccetta da fiuto imperiale dal periodo Daoguang (1821-1850) della dinastia Qing si trasforma in un vettore di buon auspicio

The Masterpiece London jewelry

Published on June 26, 2016

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Antiques, but also many extraordinary jewels: Masterpiece London is the leading international exhibition for art and design, which attracts collectors from all over the world. Among the 154 stands of selected exhibitors you will find everything from ancient statue to contemporary jewelry. All this, however, a high level, very high. All works are for sale and certified by international experts to ensure the origin and quality. Are, for example, jewelery signed by Suzanne Belperron, Castellani and even Salavator Dali, or famous Maison as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Chase, Verdura, Hemmerle, Boghossian, Somlo, SJ Phillips, Véronique Bamps, Chatila and Grima. Do not think, though, to find the same jewelry that you can buy in jewelry. They are a breed apart. And there will also Wallace Chan, who will debut in the UK just for Masterpiece London: the Hong Kong designer will present the 2016 Silk Necklace created especially for the exhibition, consisting of 54 diamonds, 124 pink tourmalines, colored diamonds, sapphires pink and white agate. Federico Graglia
Masterpiece London
30 June-6 July 2016
Royal Hospital Chelsea, South Grounds
www.masterpiecefair.com
Hours: 11: 00-21: 00

Audouard (circa 1850). Spilla mazzolino di fiori in oro smaltato insieme con vecchi diamanti taglio brillante e granati nei boccioli di rosa

Da Boghart, orecchini con oro e diamanti

Bracciale di Boghossian, diamanti e perle

Bracciale Giacinto di Fulco di Verdura, oro, platino, zaffiri, diamanti

Ciondoli a forma di pesce di Fabergé, oro e legno

Spilla-pendente di Boucheron con citrini

Bracciale in oro giallo con due tigri, diamanti fancy, onice, smeraldi (gli occhi)

Collana di René Bonvin, oro giallo, disegnato come una catena, cavo flessibile che sospende una frangia di nappe con diamanti taglio brillante. Consegnata nel 1945 per la principessa Irene di Grecia

Collana di diamanti e acquamarine di Van Cleef & Arpels

Orecchini Persistenza del Suono, di Salvator Dalì

Suzanne Belperron, bracciale con citrini

Castellani, circa 1880. Collana in stile revival archeologico in oro giallo, rubini cabochon taglio e perle naturali. Una collana simile dalla tenuta del nipote di Augusto Castellani appartiene alle collezioni dei Musei Capitolini di Roma