Germania

From the Sun King to today, Leyser’s long journey




There are not many Houses that can boast a history longer than a kingdom. One of the few is Leyser, which has its roots in the time of Louis XIV, known as Louis the Great or Sun King (1638-1715). Even then the Leyser family was active in the stone and jewelery trade, today based in Idar-Oberstein, Rhineland-Palatinate, Germany, where the stones are cut, polished and set. But the brand also has showrooms in London, Basel and Lecco, on Lake Como. Today the company, which in its current form dates back to the early twentieth century, is led by Sebastian Leyser, together with his father Thomas. And it is needless to underline that such a long history is the result of attention to the quality of the product, that is, of the jewels.

Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, tanzanite
Orecchini in oro bianco, diamanti, tanzanite

Leyser jewels are also produced on behalf of other prestigious brands. At the center of the jewels there is almost always a gem of particular intensity, such as paraiba tourmaline, opals or tanzanites. The cut accompanies the design in order to provide the best result: the entire production process is carried out in the laboratories in Idar-Oberstein, the jewels are then sold all over the world. And who knows for how long.
Orecchini scomponibili in oro, opale di fuoco, granato mandarino
Orecchini scomponibili in oro, opale di fuoco, granato mandarino

Anello in oro bianco, tsavoriti e tormalina verde
Anello in oro bianco, tsavoriti e tormalina verde
Collana in platino con tormalina paraiba e diamanti
Collana in platino con tormalina paraiba e diamanti

Anello La Rose com tormalina rosa e acquamarina
Anello La Rose com tormalina rosa e acquamarina

Anello con tormalina Paraiba e diamanti
Anello con tormalina Paraiba e diamanti







Coeur de Lion ready to roar even in Italy




It takes courage to stay on the jewelry market. And the resourcefulness is not lacking at Diffusione Orologi, an Italian company active in the distribution of watch and jewelry brands that deals with the production of such as Opsobjects, Xiam, Kulto 925, as well as the distribution of Daniel Wellington (watches) for Italy, Spain, Portugal. , Switzerland, Germany, Austria and Holland, PDPaola (jewels). Now Diffusione Orologi also extends its scope of action in Italy to Coeur de Lion, one of the most original brands in the bijoux sector.

Collana della linea Geocube
Collana della linea Geocube

It is no coincidence that Coeur de Lion received the German Brand Award 2022. Born 35 years ago, Coeur del Lion despite its French name has its origins in Germany, in Stuttgart. The brand uses materials such as natural stones, freshwater pearls, crystals and stainless steel, composed in small cubes. But, above all, it offers jewelry with a truly original design (we talked about it here). The brand has over 3,000 points of sale in Germany, Austria, Holland, France, Poland, the United Kingdom and Switzerland. Diffusione Orologi aims to develop distribution in the Italian market.
Orecchini della linea Geocube
Orecchini della linea Geocube

Geocube bracelet
Bracciale della linea Geocube

Gioielli Coeur de Lion, indossati
Gioielli Coeur de Lion, indossati







A long history behind this Hot Stuff

/




One of the jewelry brands with most tradition in Germany: Trautz ♦

Trautz family has a long history behind: it is linked to Pforzheim, the German town where it is alive an ancient jewelry tradition. After being divided into different trades, Trautz in the eighteenth century have focused on the jewelry. Since then the name has been synonymous with premium quality jewelry, but the company as it is today has his date of birth in 1928. Since 2007 the management of the jewelry factory is passed to Frank Trautz, which continues the long family tradition. The jewelry line most exclusive by German brand is named Hot Stuff.

Anelli con pietre dure della collezione Colorelle
Anelli con pietre dure della collezione Colorelle
A name more Anglo-Saxon Germanic, while the style of the jewelry is absolutely classic: 18K gold, white diamonds or champagne, to compose the rings, bracelets and pendants to show off on important occasions. The brand has also introduced stones like topaz and smoky quartz. Or the Magic flexible jewelery line, in the three colors of gold. They are jewels that do not have anything particularly German, but have an international feel: you might find in a store window in New York, as well as Milan.
Anello in oro bianco e calcedonio
Anello in oro bianco e calcedonio

Anello Sirius in oro e diamanti della collezione Hot Stuff
Anello Sirius in oro rosa e diamanti della collezione Hot Stuff
Anello Polaris in oro e 107 diamanti per 4,59 carati
Anello Polaris in oro e 107 diamanti per 4,59 carati
Anello flessibile della collezione Magic in oro e diamanti
Anello flessibile della collezione Magic in oro e diamanti
Orecchini in oro con quarzo limone
Orecchini in oro con quarzo limone
Anello Magic in oro rosa
Anello Magic in oro rosa
Bracciale Magic in oro giallo e diamanti
Bracciale Magic in oro giallo e diamanti







From Bauhaus to Coeur de Lion

/




Geometries, bright colors and affordable prices: the bijoux by the German brand Coeur de Lion ♦

It’s easy to say design. But only new ideas are capable of instilling new sap. It is the story of Coeur de Lion, that despite the francophone name is a Stuttgart brand. Have you ever heard of Bauhaus, that movement of architects and designers of the Thirties in Germany, who invented the concept of modern design? Well, Carola Eckrodt and her husband Nils from 1987 took lessons (virtual) by Gropius & c. The result is jewelry made with a humble metal such as aluminum, but with so many ideas that it becomes valuable. And, above all, do great fun. Sign that there is still room to invent. The idea is to use for the jewels of the elements chosen usually for an industrial use.

CollanaGeoCube con cluster rin oro e argento
CollanaGeoCube con cluster rin oro e argento

The first designs of this type have been presented in Monaco of Bavaria. And a couturier Düsseldorf, Hanns Friedrichs, bought the entire first collection. Ten years later, Carola Eckrodt has successfully created the Geo Cube Collection, which not coincidentally you can also find at Bauhaus Museum in Weimar, at the Smithsonian in Washington and at the Royal Academy in London. In addition to these metal charms, the bijoux which love modernity they include Polaris resin, colored glass hand finished, and Swarovski crystals. In short, the estetic courage is not lacking, as true hearts lion.

Bracciale multicolore GeoCube
Bracciale multicolore GeoCube
Collana Amulet con cristalli Swarovski, agata
Collana Amulet con cristalli Swarovski, agata
Anello Dancing GeoCube
Anello Dancing GeoCube
Collana multicolore GeoCube con cristalli Swarovski rosa e beige
Collana multicolore GeoCube con cristalli Swarovski rosa e beige
Collana multicolore GeoCube
Collana multicolore GeoCube
Orecchini GeoCube con cristalli Swarovski rosa e beige
Orecchini GeoCube con cristalli Swarovski rosa e beige
Orecchini Amulet con cristalli Swarovski Ametista e lepidolite
Orecchini Amulet con cristalli Swarovski Ametista e lepidolite







Atelier Zobel’s art jewels

Peter Schmid. A very common name in Germany. But the skills of Peter Schmid who lives and works in Costanza, a town overlooking the lake in the south of the country, are by no means common. Peter Schmid is an artist and a goldsmith, who relaunched Atelier Zobel. His jewels are creative and small works of art, different from all the others. And he did not become an artist who works with gold and precious stones from a family inheritance: he was born in a rural area in Ostrach, where his father had a lumber yard.

Spilla in oro, argento, acquamarina intagliata, diamanti
Brooch in gold, silver, carved aquamarine, diamonds

But Peter’s curiosity and vivacity pushed him further. He started studying economics. But reading, travel, culture, art pushed him to study goldsmithing. After a brief experience in the Atelier Zobel he decided to specialize at the Vocational College of Design, Jewelry and Tools in Schwäbisch Gmünd. A scholarship then led him to the Escuela Masana in Barcelona.

Apilla in argento sterling, oro 24 e 22 caeati, ambra, diamante taglio pincess, diamanti grezzi
Brooch in sterling silver, 24 and 22 carat gold, amber, pincess-cut diamond, rough diamonds

Schmid then returned to Constance, where he worked for Atelier Zobel for 11 years, before taking over the studio in 2005. In his laboratory-studio, together with his team, the jeweler-artist loves to carefully evaluate stones, a source of inspiration for their history, as well as their quality. He starts from stones, in fact, to create unique pieces that are also objects of collection, as well as jewels to wear. The jewels thus take on imaginative, irregular and certainly original aspects. To do this, he combined metals in new ways, with a refined technique of goldsmithing and welding.

Peter Schmid
Peter Schmid
Anello in argento, oro 22 e 24 carati, pietra luna, diamanti
Ring in silver, 22 and 24 carat gold, moonstone, diamonds
Orecchini in oro e diamanti
Gold and diamond earrings
Orecchini in oro 24 carati, argento, tormaline rosa, diamanti
Earrings in 24 carat gold, silver, pink tourmalines, diamonds
Anello in oro e tormaline paraiba, diamanti
Gold and Paraiba tourmaline ring, diamonds
Anello in platino e tormaline paraiba, diamanti
Ring in platinum and Paraiba tourmalines, diamonds

The magic touch of Georg Hornemann

/




Few jewelers can boast that they are true artists: Georg Hornemann is one of them. The designer has a story worth telling. He was born in 1940 in Dassau, in what was East Germany. Since he was young his aptitude for design emerged, at the famous Bauhaus school, and at 15 he worked as an apprentice with one of Dessau’s leading goldsmiths. Before the final closure of the borders, in 1958 Hornemann managed to go to West Germany, and find work at Weyersberg, one of the leading jewelers in Düsseldorf.

Anello Octopus in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri rosa
Anello Octopus in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri rosa

At 27, he received the first international prize as a jewelry designer and started his own business as a goldsmith. His specialty are unique and unusual pieces. In the early 1970s, his designs were inspired by Op Art, but Hornemann also used non-jewelry materials such as ancient coins, Byzantine crosses, Russian icons, and Japanese sword parts. In 1982 he was admitted to the Diamonds International Academy by Sir Anthony Oppenheimer and his jewels have been exhibited in New York, Paris, London, Sydney, Singapore, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Zurich, Düsseldorf and Berlin and have won awards.
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti, tsavoriti
Anello in oro giallo, diamanti, tsavoriti

Since 1985, his son Alexander Hornemann has also started working with him. From jewelry, the German designer’s design then moved to silver and iron household items, bowls and candlesticks. With the turn of the century, Hornemann also created his so-called ring sculptures, inspired by contemporary architecture, sculpture and art.
Orecchini in oro giallo
Orecchini in oro giallo

Hornemann was also the first goldsmith to design a jewelry collection specifically for the luxury brand Akris summer 2005 prêt-à-porter collection, exhibited in Paris at the Carrousel du Louvre. He works with precious stones and gold, silver, platinum, bronze and iron, but also Corian or acrylic. The motifs of flora and fauna are central, so he simplifies and abstracts the natural forms and emphasizes the ornamental. Another theme is the tension between life and death.
Anello in oro giallo e tsavoriti
Anello in oro giallo e tsavoriti

Spilla ape di Georg Hornemann
Spilla ape di Georg Hornemann

Anello Rana in oro giallo e tsavoriti
Anello Rana in oro giallo e tsavoriti







Time travel with Otto Jakob




From the Etruscans in Tuscany to the Tefaf in New York: the elaborate jewelry by Otto Jakob.

The end of October coincided with Otto Jakob’s return to Tefaf in New York, this year in an online version (1-4 November). From Karlsruhe, a city in southwest Germany, the German designer has won legions of admirers. Her recipe calls for 70 percent of fantasy, 25 percent of design and 5 percent of the Teutonic spirit instilled in her jewelry. That of Otto is not a job, but a vocation: he began at age 17 with the study of Etruscan art, Celtic and classical: influences that are still present in his unique pieces, plus a kind of medieval soul. From 1977 to 1980 he studied painting. Then, it is dedicated exclusively to jewelry making. But is not jewelry that you can be bought in any jewelry: are special pieces, exposed only to Tefaf or in an art gallery. Nor is it surprising that in previous editions Jakob was assigned to Tefaf in an area reserved for ancient jewels.

His real teachers, in fact, are Italians goldsmiths like Benvenuto Cellini in Fortunato Pio Castellani.

Orecchini Wolodja di Otto Jakob. Sono ispirati al film del 1925 «La corazzata Potemkin». I volti sono stati realizzati utilizzando lo stesso stampo, ma smaltati in modo leggermente diverso per farli sembrare gemelli
Orecchini Wolodja di Otto Jakob con diamanti briolette. Sono ispirati al film del 1925 «La corazzata Potemkin». I volti sono stati realizzati utilizzando lo stesso stampo, ma smaltati in modo leggermente diverso per farli sembrare gemelli

There is no trace of modern design in its rings, earrings or bracelets. They are special pieces. For example, he can use crystals of Pakistan rock and, simultaneously, with gold inclusions, oil, tar and gas, red spinel, ruby ​​and diamond. On average, each piece is made with about one hundred hours of work by nine craftsmen. 70 percent of production are unique pieces, the rest is made up of small variations of already proposed jewels. The prices of her jewels start at around 7,000 euro and arrive in tens of thousands. And they are reserved for those who truly love his style. Rudy Serra

Pendente Lalibela in oro con perla keshi e rubino
Pendente Lalibela in oro con perla keshi e rubino
Anello vintage con diamante in oro e smalto
Anello vintage con diamante in oro e smalto
Pendente Araçari con un'ametista che si è sviluppata all'interno di un quarzo
Pendente Araçari con un’ametista che si è sviluppata all’interno di un quarzo
Bracciale granchio di Otto Jakob
Bracciale granchio di Otto Jakob
Orecchini Edentulina ispirati a una lumaca. Sono realizzati con una rara conchiglia verde africana e tormaline arancioni
Orecchini Edentulina ispirati a una lumaca. Sono realizzati con una rara conchiglia verde africana e tormaline arancioni
Medaglione vintage in oro smalto
Medaglione vintage in oro smalto

Bracciale in oro, smalto e diamanti
Bracciale in oro, smalto e diamanti







Al Coro chooses La Piazza

//





Italian cities inspired the La Piazza collection of the German brand Al Coro

Italy is famous for its cities, with a long history behind it. And often history or, better, the symbols of the past, are found around a square: churches, monuments, palaces and, perhaps, even welcoming public places where to drink or eat. They are the favorite places of tourists, and also by the German brand Al Coro, which is constantly inspired by the charm of Italy for its collections. Also because the Maison was founded many years ago by a goldsmith from Vicenza.

In the La Piazza collection, presented at Baselworld, Al Coro is inspired by Piazza della Signoria, in Florence.

Al Coro, ciondoli della collezione La Piazza
Al Coro, ciondoli della collezione La Piazza

Here you don’t meet people, but the materials that make up the convex and fluid forms of jewels. For example, the interaction of hot pink gold with mother-of-pearl, or pale pink chalcedony, paired with pavé diamonds. The lines are soft, with a fine finish of the pavé and shades of colors given by mother-of-pearl and chalcedony, available for the necklace, bracelet and ring. Certainly jewels that can be exhibited with pride when walking in a square, even if it is not Italian. Alessia Mongrando





Ciondolo della collezione La Piazza
Ciondolo della collezione La Piazza

Bracciale in oro e pavé di diamanti della collezione La Piazza
Bracciale in oro e pavé di diamanti della collezione La Piazza
Orecchini in oro e pavé di diamanti della collezione La Piazza
Orecchini in oro e pavé di diamanti della collezione La Piazza
Anello in oro rosa e pavé di diamanti
Anello in oro rosa e pavé di diamanti
Anello in oro rosa e madreperla
Anello in oro rosa e madreperla
Anello in oro rosa e calcedonio rosa
Anello in oro rosa e calcedonio rosa

Anello in oro rosa con pavé di diamanti
Anello in oro rosa con pavé di diamanti







Stenzhorn with feathers

/





The Persuasion collection by the German Maison Stenzhorn is inspired by the feathers of bird-of-paradise ♦︎

How you can persuade her of your love? Animals have their methods, for example, they show colored feathers or sing songs of love. Men use more or less the same methods (ok, without feathers), but with the addition of jewels.

From this consideration the Persuasion collection of Stenzhorn was born, a great Maison of German jewelry.

Anello con diamanti e rubini
Anello con diamanti e rubini

To inspire the collection, in particular, is been the courtship ritual of the birds of paradise. The elaborate ritual and the colored feather wheel of the bird of paradise has been studied, analyzed and admired. The Persuasion collection is characterized by a whirling fan of feathers at the center of each piece. They are rippled waves that start from the central stone, set in white or pink gold, with pavé diamonds. Other versions of the jewels alternate diamonds with sapphires, rubies and tsavorites, with a touch of color that would also appeal to the vainest peacocks. Giulia Netrese





Orecchini con diamanti, collezione Persuasion
Orecchini con diamanti, collezione Persuasion

Orecchini con diamanti e tsavoriti, collezione Persuasion di Stenzhorn
Orecchini con diamanti e tsavoriti, collezione Persuasion di Stenzhorn
Pendente con diamanti e zaffiri
Pendente con diamanti e zaffiri
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti

Pendente con diamanti e tsavoriti
Pendente con diamanti e tsavoriti







Gioiello con patata

Un anello è stato trovato sotto terra a Karbach, in Germania: era attaccato attorno a una patata. Qualcuno ha pensato a un nuovo miracoloso seme che fa crescere ibridi preziosi. Ma non è così: l’anello, in realtà, era stato perso da tre anni e ora è stato ritrovato nell’orto, in simbiosi con il vegetale. Frieda Herrmann e figlia Gisela Herrmann, la legittima proprietaria, hanno messo anello e patata su un piatto, in attesa di decidere se cuocere tutti e due. G.N.

La patata-anello
La patata-anello

ukA ring was found under the floor in Karbach, Germany: it was attacked around a potato. Has anyone thought of a miraculous new hybrid seed that grows precious. But it is not so: the ring, in fact, had been lost for three years and has now been found in the garden, in symbiosis with the plant. Gisela and daughter Frieda Herrmann Herrmann, the rightful owner, they put ring and potato on a plate, waiting to decide whether to cook them both.

france-flagUn anneau a été trouvé sous le plancher Karbach, Allemagne: il a été attaqué autour d’une pomme de terre. Quelqu’un at-il pensé à une nouvelle semence hybride miraculeuse qui pousse précieux. Mais ce n’est pas le cas: l’anneau, en fait, avait été perdu pendant trois ans et a maintenant été trouvé dans le jardin, en symbiose avec la plante. Gisela et sa fille Frieda Herrmann Herrmann, le propriétaire légitime, ils ont mis anneau et la pomme de terre sur une plaque, en attendant de décider de les faire cuire à la fois.

flag-russiaUn Анелло Э. стата Trovato Sotto Terra Karbach, в Германии: эпоха attaccato attorno Una Patata. Qualcuno га pensato ООН Nuovo miracoloso семи Че FA crescere ibridi Прециози. Ma Non è così: L’Anello, в realtà, эпохи персидско стате да Tre Анни электронной Ora Э. стата Ritrovato nell’orto, в simbiosi Con IL Vegetale. Фрида Херрманн электронной Figlia Гизела Херрманн, Ла legittima proprietaria, Ханно Messo Анелло электронной Patata Су Piatto ООН, в ATTESA ди decidere SE cuocere Tutti электронной связи.

Fasoli venderà orologi a Guglielmo Tell

Fasoli
Fasoli Gioielli

Più estero per Fasoli. È la stanchezza del mercato italiano della gioielleria a spingere oltrefrontiera i produttori. Per questo Fasoli Gioielli, azienda di preziosi e orologi nata a metà Ottocento (cinque negozi tra Brescia, Crema, Sirmione e Verona) ha in tasca un accordo di collaborazione con un partner tedesco per la distribuzione in esclusiva in Germania, Austria e Svizzera nei prodotti di fascia più bassa. Non a caso l’azienda ha programmato un incremento della produzione di collezioni con perle e argento anziché oro, a prezzi più contenuti. L’azienda ha anche nel cassetto un progetto di espansione sui mercati dell’Est europeo e, cia e-commerce, anche nell’area del Golfo, al momento una delle più vivaci. Fasoli ha un giro d’affari (dati 2011) di 13,5 milioni di euro, ed è proprietaria del marchio Mayumi. F.G.

bracciale
Bracciale di argento Fasoli