Elisabetta Cipriani

The delicate abstractions of Ute Decker

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If you are planning to change your life, perhaps to become a jewelry designer, know that it is never too late. Ute Decker, German, started at 40, after studying political economy at the Sorbonne, having worked as a linguist and as a journalist at the UN and CNN. For about twenty years, however, she has lived and worked in London, where she creates unique pieces in rigorously recycled gold or silver. Calling her a simple jewelry designer, however, is too little. You are, in fact, an artist who creates wearable sculptures, such as those exhibited since 2014 at the Elisabetta Cipriani Gallery in the British capital.

Anello Rose in oro 18 carati fairtrade
Anello Rose in oro 18 carati fairtrade

Behind the jewels, made with soft and refined geometries, there is however an artisan work. The creative process of Ute Decker was born, in fact, with the use of a simple iron wire from the garden, rolled up and carried out according to the creative ideas that then lead to the creation of prototypes, scale models and, in the end, the jewel. The inspiration for designing the jewels comes from the charm of the dynamics of shapes, but also from the interest in opposing cultures, such as Zen and tribal art. Her sculptural jewels are found in important private and public collections, including the Victoria & Albert Museum.
Curl Thin, orecchini scultorei in oro
Curl Thin, orecchini scultorei in oro

Wild Waves, bracciale scultoreo in argento
Wild Waves, bracciale scultoreo in argento
Two Unicorns, anello in oro
Two Unicorns, anello in oro
Anello scultore in oro
Anello scultore in oro
Spilla Rolling Waves in oro, pezzo unico
Spilla Rolling Waves in oro, pezzo unico

Colla scultorea in argento
Colla scultorea in argento







Nature and art jewels in London




Cop26 was held in Glasgow, Scotland. In London, however, Elisabetta Cipriani’s gallery organized another summit, but in this case it is the jewelry that answers questions about the environment. Until November 27, in fact, the gallery hosts the Force of Nature exhibition curated by Melanie Grant, which brings together the work of 17 jewelers and designers who play with the relationship between precious materials and the environment. They are all special jewels, which represent a bridge between jewelry and art. For example, Wallace Chan, Jaqueline Rabun, James de Givenchy, Satta Maturi, Ute Decker, Fabio Salini, Liv Luttrell, Grima, Bibi Van Der Velde and Melanie Eddy.

Wallace Chan, Spring of Life, anello con diamanti gialli, tsavorite, pearle, occhio di gatto, su titanio
Wallace Chan, Spring of Life, anello con diamanti gialli, tsavorite, pearle, occhio di gatto, su titanio

Even if the theme is the relationship of art with jewelry and nature, not all the jewels on display have shapes that can be immediately traced back to natural ones. In some cases the relationship is more conceptual than naturalistic. In fact, what the designer or artist wanted to interpret with her jewel counts a lot. There are also special pieces such as those by Wallace Chan, including Spring of Life, a 2019 ring with yellow diamonds, tsavorite, pearle, cat’s eye, on titanium: sometimes art surpasses nature.
Melanie Grant, bracciale in bronzo e diamanti
Melanie Grant, bracciale in bronzo e diamanti

Bibi Van Der Velde, orecchini ant, in oro giallo e tsavoriti
Bibi Van Der Velde, orecchini ant, in oro giallo e tsavoriti
Fabio Salini, collana Cappio in fibra di carbonio, diamanti, perle di acqua dolce
Fabio Salini, collana Cappio in fibra di carbonio, diamanti, perle di acqua dolce
Francesca Grima, collana con conchiglia Ammonite fossile, diamanti e oro
Francesca Grima, collana con conchiglia Ammonite fossile, diamanti e oro
Lydia Courteille, anello in oro 18 carati, tsavorite, giada, peridoto, smeraldi
Lydia Courteille, anello in oro 18 carati, tsavorite, giada, peridoto, smeraldi

Satta Matturi, orecchini in oro 18 carati, diamanti, rodolite, onice
Satta Matturi, orecchini in oro 18 carati, diamanti, rodolite, onice







Art and jewelery with Elisabetta Cipriani

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Art and jewelery are placed side by side in Elisabetta Cipriani’s gallery in London ♦ ︎

The world of art and jewels are linked. Not only because pieces of fine jewelry are small masterpieces of creativity, but also because conceptually the protagonists of the two worlds sometimes overlap. One example is the ork of Elisabetta Cipriani, who in London in 2009, opened a gallery in which she exhibited jewels created by over 40 painters and sculptors. All names are prominent, such as Ai Weiwei, Chiharu Shiota, Giulio Paolini, Ilya and Emilia Kabakov, Carlos Cruz-Diez, Enrico Castellani, Erwin Wurm, Giorgio Vigna, Jannis Kounellis, Rebecca Horn and Pedro Cabrita Reis.

Anello in oro di Sissi
Anello in oro di Sissi

Rings that are sculptures, sculptures that are worn, unique jewels: Elisabetta has convinced the artists and jewelry designers to collaborate with the project, which involves the artisan realization of pieces that can be worn. But also simply admiring, as many jewels are exhibited in museums and private collections all over the world, including the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris; Museum of Art and Design, New York; World Jewelery Museum, Seoul; and The State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg.





Bracciale in oro di Ai Weiwei
Bracciale in oro di Ai Weiwei

Anello labbra di Jannis Kounellis
Anello labbra di Jannis Kounellis
Bracciale in oro giallo satinato 18 carati di Sophie Whettnall
Bracciale in oro giallo satinato 18 carati di Sophie Whettnall
Chiharu Shiota, Carrying Memory, collana in oro giallo 18 kt e argento ossidato
Chiharu Shiota, Carrying Memory, collana in oro giallo 18 kt e argento ossidato
Collana di Paolo Canevari
Collana di Paolo Canevari

Collana di Noor Fares con zaffiri, diamanti, smeraldo
Collana di Noor Fares con zaffiri, diamanti, smeraldo







The bracelets armed by Ai Weiwei

Ai Weiwei is a Chinese artist best known. His statements and his cultural proposal are discussed, but it is indisputable the fame conquered in the West. Among his most famous installations are works made with 99 tons of steel, or 8 million sunflower seeds. Now the Chinese artist, surprisingly, has made a collection of jewelry. For the debut was chosen London, in the gallery of Elisabetta Cipriani: the British city is more receptive to the ideas of Ai Weiwei than Beijing. “I have always loved jewelry, history, the sense of the past,” explained the creative Chinese. The result are armors of gold in miniature, bracelets of different lengths. Armor in the sense of the iron rods which support the concrete pillars of buildings. The idea of ​​the collection, in fact, refers to a tragic event: the earthquake in China in 2008 killed 90 thousand people under the rubble. Ai Weiwei has visited the disaster sites and it remained troubled. And he collected 200 tons of twisted steel bars. A form that has now decided to turn into jewelry, in memory of that event tragic. In any case, “I loved working with the 24-carat gold, because it is very malleable,” he told at New York Times. Federico Graglia

Ai Weiwei
Ai Weiwei
Bracciale in oro 24 carati di Ai Weiwei
Bracciale in oro 24 carati di Ai Weiwei
L'esposizione dei gioielli di Ai Weiwei
L’esposizione dei gioielli di Ai Weiwei