Coco Chanel

Among the stars with Chanel in 1932

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Time travel has always been a human being’s dream. Together with another fantasy, that of space travel, among the stars. Put these two aspirations together and you can understand the meaning of 1932, haute joaillerie collection by Chanel. Because the high jewelery presented in Paris during the haute couture week is a tribute simultaneously to the founder of the Maison, Coco Chanel, and to her passion for high jewelery and the stars. Bijoux de Diamants was the name of the first Chanel high jewelery collection: they were jewels inspired by the constellations and marked an era. Some of those jewels were exhibited in Paris, at the Grand Palais Éphémère on the occasion, almost a century later, of the launch of 1932, which revisits the founder’s debut, instilling new ideas.

Allure Céleste, collana con diamanti taglio brillante, uno zaffiro ovale blu intenso di 55,55 carati e un diamante colore D, FL, taglio a pera da 8,05 carati
Allure Céleste, collana con diamanti taglio brillante, uno zaffiro ovale blu intenso di 55,55 carati e un diamante colore D, FL, taglio a pera da 8,05 carati

The collection is the result of the creativity of Patrice Leguéreau, director of Chanel Jewelery. In all there are 77 unique pieces, 12 of which are transformable (a trend now common to all the great Maison), which use gold adorned with diamonds, sapphires, yellow diamonds, rubies, spinels and tanzanites.
Comète Volute, collana con un diamante ovale di 9,32 carati
Comète Volute, collana con un diamante ovale di 9,32 carati

It is high jewelery and, therefore, a collection with pieces that compete with each other for richness, design and, of course, price. Like the Allure Céleste necklace, which uses brilliant-cut diamonds, a 55.55-carat deep blue oval sapphire and an 8.05-carat pear-cut D, FL color diamond. The two diamond elements detach and turn into brooches, while the central part can be worn as a bracelet. Another necklace, Comète Volute, has a spiral shape that encloses a 19.32-carat white oval diamond.
Spilla Comète Volute
Spilla Comète Volute

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti Lune Silhouette
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti Lune Silhouette
Anello Soleil Mademoiselle in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello Soleil Mademoiselle in oro bianco e diamanti
Collana Comète Saphir. Oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri. La pietra centrale è uno zaffiro taglio cuscino di 6,56 carati
Collana Comète Saphir. Oro bianco, diamanti e zaffiri. La pietra centrale è uno zaffiro taglio cuscino di 6,56 carati
Collana Soleil Doré in oro bianco, oro giallo, diamanti e diamanti gialli
Collana Soleil Doré in oro bianco, oro giallo, diamanti e diamanti gialli
Orecchini Lune Talisman in oro bianco, diamanti, tanzaniti
Orecchini Lune Talisman in oro bianco, diamanti, tanzaniti

Spilla Soleil Doré in oro bianco, oro giallo, diamanti e diamanti gialli
Spilla Soleil Doré in oro bianco, oro giallo, diamanti e diamanti gialli







A super Chanel necklace preview of the 1932 collection

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The high fashion shows serve to show unique pieces, sometimes exemplary of a series of dresses created on a theme. Chanel has decided to adopt more or less the same philosophy with a pre-collection of high jewelry. That is, an appetizer waiting to present (in May) the entire collection entitled 1932. The number refers to the year in which Coco Chanel, the founder of the Parisian Maison, decided to present a collection of high jewelry. The collection was called Bijoux De Diamants, but did not have much luck due to the difficult period (post Great Depression). But 90 years later the world has changed and no one is scandalized anymore if a company famous for its clothes also deals with high jewelery.

Dettaglio del collier di Chanel
Dettaglio del collier di Chanel

Chanel’s jewels, created by creative director Patrice Leguéreau, thus presented a sapphire and diamond necklace inspired by the star theme that had been chosen by Coco Chanel for her collection. A crescent moon and a large 55.55-carat deep blue sapphire (the number five, also famous for its perfume, was the creator’s favorite). A comet of diamonds surrounds an 8.02-carat pear-cut gem, with a trail of other smaller gems of different shapes. In short, an exceptional jewel. Which increases the expectation for the rest of the collection.

La collana della collezione 1932, con uno zaffiro blu di 55,55 carati
La collana della collezione 1932, con uno zaffiro blu di 55,55 carati







The new lions of Chanel

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The high-jewelery collection L’Esprit du Lion, signed Chanel ♦ ︎
Chanel’s lion returns. A proud and noble animal, the lion has always been an icon that the French Maison uses for its high jewelery collections.
Read also: Chanel under the sign of the lion
After the 2015 collection, here is a new series of jewels presented at the haute couture in Paris. That Chanel’s lion was not destined to become extinct, on the other hand, and was also written in the stars: Coco Chanel considered it a lucky charm and she was also rather superstitious. She considered the astrological sign of the lion as a good luck charm. Superstition aside, the new collection, which is called L’Esprit du Lion, is composed of 53 pieces. Of course, everyone have a lion’s head here or there. Diamonds and white or yellow gold, are the basic elements of the high jewelery signed Chanel. But there are also colored stones like beryl, sapphires, topaz. One of the necklaces, for example, is made up of an 18-karat gold lion, placed on top of a large detachable 30-carat orange topaz and 82 pink sapphires. In short, a collection with a beauty that roars. Giulia Netrese



Chanel, choker della collezione L'Esprit du Leon
Chanel, choker della collezione L’Esprit du Leon
Collana Eternal in oro bianco 18 carati con cinque diamanti taglio goccia, otto diamanti taglio rotondo, due diamanti taglio ovale, 22 diamanti taglio fancy e 2.039 diamanti taglio brillante
Collana Eternal in oro bianco 18 carati con cinque diamanti taglio goccia, otto diamanti taglio rotondo, due diamanti taglio ovale, 22 diamanti taglio fancy e 2.039 diamanti taglio brillante
Orecchini Eternal in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Eternal in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti in oro bianco, diamanti bianchi e brown
Orecchini pendenti in oro bianco, diamanti bianchi e brown
Bracciale in oro giallo, diamanti, topazio orange
Bracciale in oro giallo, diamanti, topazio orange
Spilla in oro bianco e diamanti
Spilla in oro bianco e diamanti

Spilla in oro giallo, diamanti bianchi, zaffiri
Spilla in oro giallo, diamanti bianchi, zaffiri







Old and new Verdura

Old and new Verdura Jewelery at Masterpiece London ♦ ︎
Fulco Santostefano of Cerda, Duke of Verdura and Marchese of Murata la Cerda. With a name so who would ever bet that Verdura would become a symbol of jewelry? Yet it is so. The Sicilian noble (March 20, 1898-15 August 1978), usually abbreviated in Fulco di Verdura, is still a trademark, surviving the disappearance of its creator.
Like designer, Fulco Verdura started with Coco Chanel in Thirties, thanks to the support of Linda and Cole Porter, his fans. Chanel asked Fulco di Verdura to get more brilliant some of the jewels of the Maison. During eight years the Italian aristocrat has played the role of chief designer for Chanel jewels. Fulco left Chanel in 1934 to reach America, with Baron Julian West and Princess Natalia Pavlovna Paley. First in Hollywood and then in New York, where Diana Vreeland, a Chanel’s customer, presented Fulco di Verdura to jeweler Paul Flato. After working with Flato, Verdura opened its small Maison with financial support from Cole Porter and Vincent Astor. His childhood in Sicily and the Italian Renaissance were the two driving headlights for his work.
Disappeared the jeweler’s extravaganza, the Verdura brand was purchased by EJLandrigan, a company led by Ward and Nico Landrigan. The goal is to continue the work of the great Sicilian designer. So at Masterpiece London 2017, for example, the jewelery company presented historic pieces of Fulco di Verdura, along with new jewels, as you can see from this gallery of images. Lavinia Andorno





Collana Leaves, con calcedonio e zaffiri
Collana Leaves, con calcedonio e zaffiri

Bracciale a doppia chiusura con pietra luna e diamanti
Bracciale a doppia chiusura con pietra luna e diamanti
Bracciale Leaves and Flowers con diamanti
Bracciale Leaves and Flowers con diamanti, 1939
Orecchini a clip a forma di melograna
Orecchini a clip a forma di melograno, 1939
Bracciale Congo, oro e lacca
Bracciale Congo, oro e lacca
Orecchini a clip in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini a clip in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini a clip in oro giallo
Orecchini a clip in oro giallo
Orecchini con zaffiri e rubini
Orecchini con zaffiri e rubini
Dogwood, spilla ciondolo con zaffiri e rubini
Dogwood, spilla ciondolo con zaffiri e rubini

Orecchini Feather, 1939
Orecchini Feather, 1939





Anello Medusa, oro giallo, 1939
Anello Medusa, oro giallo, 1939

Orecchini Medusa, 1939
Orecchini Medusa, 1939
Anello Raja con zaffiri e turchesi, 1939
Anello Raja con zaffiri e turchesi, 1939
Spilla vintage di Verdura con rubini a forma di grappolo
Spilla vintage di Verdura con rubini a forma di grappolo
Verdura, orecchini Stardust con zaffiri e diamanti
Verdura, orecchini Stardust con zaffiri e diamanti
Anello toi et moi in oro, 1939
Anello toi et moi in oro, 1939
Anello Triple Wave in oro e diamanti, 1939
Anello Triple Wave in oro e diamanti, 1939
Orecchini a forma di grappolo d'uva, con smeraldi e diamanti
Orecchini a forma di grappolo d’uva, con smeraldi e diamanti
Orecchini a forma di grappolo d'uva, con perle, platino e diamanti
Orecchini a forma di grappolo d’uva, con oro, perle, platino e diamanti

Orecchini a forma di viticcio in oro, 1939
Orecchini a forma di viticcio in oro, 1939







Chanel stops time

High jewelry on the wave of tradition by Maison Chanel. The name of collection: Coco Avant Chanel.
Coco Chanel divided in two by the time: before and after. The first gave inspiration to a fine jewelry collection called, precisely, Coco Avant Chanel. The collection consists of 11 parure, imagine for many women, in each of which the Parisian Maison gave a name. As Emilienne, which prefers finery made from beads, while Jeanne entrusted the pink sapphires and white diamonds marquise cut. And pearls for Martha, who even gets 220 for her parure, while in other cases there is a total of white gold and diamonds. The collection includes also two jewelery watches. Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, known as Coco for all, it would probably be proud: one time ago, for women wear a watch was dishonorable (yes, many years ago it was considered vulgar), and timepieces were transformed as precious jewels, for those who could afford it. The Jeanne clock, for example, uses 500 diamonds, with geometric patterns reminiscent of the style of Mademoiselle Chanel. The collection, presented in Paris during the haute couture shows, has aroused impression. But it not for the price of the jewelry: it is only communicated on request. Giulia Netrese

Collezione Coco Avant Chanel, oro bianco e diamanti
Collezione Coco Avant Chanel, oro bianco e diamanti

Bracciale della collezione Coco Avant Chanel, oro bianco e diamanti
Bracciale della collezione Coco Avant Chanel, oro bianco e diamanti
Orologio della collezione Coco Avant Chanel, oro bianco e diamanti
Orologio della collezione Coco Avant Chanel, oro bianco e diamanti
Collier della collezione Coco Avant Chanel
Collier della collezione Coco Avant Chanel
Parure della collezione Coco Avant Chanel
Parure della collezione Coco Avant Chanel
Spilla con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Spilla con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Coco Chanel, collier
Coco Chanel, collier
Lavorazione del collier-colletto
Lavorazione del collier-colletto
Collier con diamanti e zaffiri
Collier con diamanti e zaffiri
Parure di perle grigie, diamanti e zaffiri
Parure di perle grigie, diamanti e zaffiri

The new masterpieces by Fulco di Verdura

New jewels by Fulco di Verdura presented in London.
Fulco di Verdura debuted at Masterpiece London with a collection that pits two works of the thirties of the Sicilian Duke: one was the Byzantine-inspired by Coco Chanel in Paris, and other his distinctly modern designs for the stars of cinema.

The Fulco di Verdura jewelry have been worn by the most famous actresses in Hollywood: Katherine Hepburn, Lana Turner, Lauren Bacall, Gene Tierney. And then from Windsor and the Agnelli family, the Ruspoli and Crespi. The Sicilian nobleman who emigrated to New York had among the customers also Astor, the Wanderbildt, the Rothschilds. To celebrate the 75th anniversary of the store on Fifth Avenue in New York, in 2014 Verdura presented The Power of Style: verdura to 75, a retrospective exhibition with over 150 jewelery created by master jeweler Duke Fulco di Verdura. His name has become famous thanks to his friendship with Coco Chanel, Diana Vreeland, Helena Rubinstein.

The story of Fulco di Verdura must to be told. Born in Palermo in 1898, was part of one of the oldest families of the Sicilian aristocracy, of Spanish origin. The name of the house was San Esteban y de La Cerda. And so Fulco Santostefano di Murata de La Cerda, who lived in Palermo Palazzo Verdura, after his father’s death he moved to France, to work for Coco Chanel. After the war he opened the famous store on Fifth Avenue.

Ward Landrigan then purchased the company in 1984, six years after the death of the duke.

Orecchini a clip in oro, smalto e pietre preziose
Orecchini a clip in oro, smalto e pietre preziose
Gemelli Night and Day in oro giallo, smalto e diamanti
Gemelli Night and Day in oro giallo, smalto e diamanti
Orecchini con acquamarina, smeraldi, granati, tsavorite
Orecchini con acquamarina, smeraldi, granati, tsavorite
Anello Giacinto, oro giallo, platino, diamanti, zaffiri
Anello Giacinto, oro giallo, platino, diamanti, zaffiri
Collana Stardust in oro bianco, pietra luna, diamanti
Collana Stardust in oro bianco, pietra luna, diamanti
Collana Confetti, oro e pietre preziose
Collana Confetti, oro e pietre preziose
Clip con pietra luna, diamanti e platino
Clip con pietra luna, diamanti e platino
Clip in platino e diamanti
Clip in platino e diamanti
Bracciali Pebble
Bracciali Pebble
Bracciale orologio in oro
Bracciale orologio in oro
Anelli in oro giallo, smalto, diamanti e pietre preziose
Anelli in oro giallo, smalto, diamanti e pietre preziose
Coco Chanel e Fulco di Verdura. Per lei realizzò i bracciali con la croce maltese
Coco Chanel e Fulco di Verdura. Per lei realizzò i bracciali con la croce maltese
I bracciali realizzati per Coco Chanel con il simbolo della croce maltese
I bracciali realizzati per Coco Chanel con il simbolo della croce maltese
Croce bizantina di Fulco di Verdura
Croce bizantina di Fulco di Verdura

In London the Chanel Story

The jewels of Coco Chanel are celebrated in an exhibition in London. It is titled Mademoiselle Privé and is open from 13 October to 1 November in the Saatchi Gallery. The exhibition celebrates the Maison Paris and tells the story of the famous perfume Chanel No. 5, but also the collections of fine jewelry, with series like the one that has just been reinterpreted with Chanel haute couture autumn-winter 2015-2016 (see https://gioiellis.com/chanel-sotto-il-segno-del-leone). The event does not fail to point out the contribution of the artistic director for more than 30 years, Karl Lagerfeld. But of course it start from the first collection of jewels signed by Mademoiselle Chanel in 1932. And then the strong themes that symbolize the brand identity. Like those between 1988 and 2007 were designed by Lorenz Bäumer. Cosimo Muzzano
Mademoiselle Privé
Daily 10:00 to 18:00 (Wednesday until 22:00)
Free entry
Saartchi Gallery
Duke of York’s HQKing’s RoadLondon SW3 4RY

Anello collezione 1932, oro bianco e diamanti
Anello collezione 1932, oro bianco e diamanti
Anello collezione 1932, oro bianco e diamanti
Anello collezione 1932, oro bianco e diamanti
Anello collezione 1932, oro bianco e diamanti
Anello collezione 1932, oro bianco e diamanti
Chanel, anello collezione 1932, oro bianco e diamanti
Chanel, anello collezione 1932, oro bianco e diamanti
Sfilate autunno-inverno 2015: la collana ripresa dal disegno originale del 1932
Sfilate autunno-inverno 2015: la collana ripresa dal disegno originale del 1932
L'immagine originale della collana disegnata da Coco Chanel  nel 1932
L’immagine originale della collana disegnata da Coco Chanel nel 1932
La locandina della mostra
La locandina della mostra