bilancio - Page 2

Gismondi 1754 grows and beats the virus




Gismondi 1754 beats the covid-19. This is what emerges from the figures for the second half of 2020, which show an overall growth in revenues of 6% compared to the same period of 2019 and in a positive countertrend compared to the performance of the reference market. The high-end jewelry company, which is listed on the Aim list of Borsa Italiana, in fact, surprises with the result a consolidated turnover for the period April-June of 1.6 million euros, compared to 1.7 in the same period of 2019: a reduction considered physiological compared to the “particular historical phase” caused by the pandemic, which led to the forced closure of direct and non-direct stores, and a sharp drop in the American market.

Collana con diamanti e smeraldi di Gismondi 1754
Collana con diamanti e smeraldi di Gismondi 1754

In the second quarter of the year, says a press release, Gismondi has always maintained its operations and has launched and accelerated digital forms of connection with the customer, also launching its own e-commerce channel and laying the foundations for gathering feedback also from online sales and new forms of “tailor-made sales”. Proof of this is the excellent performance for the new Wholesale channels in Europe and the Middle East, with a significant increase in revenues for both areas, and the Special Sales which, despite the impossibility of directly showing the product to the customer, in the first half of 2020 overall they increased their impact on turnover, going from 49% in the first half of 2019 to 58% in the first six months of this year.
Jane Fonda con il set Rugiada di Gismondi 1754
Jane Fonda con il set Rugiada di Gismondi 1754

The significant growth in sales of some direct stores and the good performance of the European and Middle-Eastern Wholesale channel, offset the slowdown in the US Wholesale channel, influenced by the momentary closure in the quarter of observation of the Neiman Marcus stores. In the Retail channel, there is a very strong growth for the stores in Genoa and S. Moritz, with sales more than doubled in both stores compared to the second quarter of 2019. Precisely because of the excellent response of the winter season, the store di S. Moritz will also remain open for the summer season, to take advantage of the location’s high-level tourist force. Revenue from the Milan stores inside the Baglioni Hotel, still closed, in Portofino, which has reopened only a few weeks ago, and the Prague franchise, which, however, since the post reopening lockdown in June, he recovered very well. The Special Sales channel remains slightly below the figure for the same quarter in 2019, but growing in comparison between the data of the first half of 2020 compared to 2019.
La nuova collezione Dedalo di Gismondi 1754
La collezione Dedalo di Gismondi 1754

Overall, in the first half of 2020 the revenues of Gismondi 1754 instead showed an increase of 6% compared to the same period of 2019. The result, in fact, grew to 2.3 million (2.2 in the first half of 2019), supported by the strong growth in revenues in the first quarter of 2020, 57% higher than in the first quarter of 2019 (465,269 euros), and by the continuous operation of the company on the market even in the most critical months of the pandemic.

Globally, the months of April and May were the most complex. The good performances of the first part of the year and the continuity in the business that we have been able to offer even during the lockdown, lead us to close the half year in any case in revenue growth, with a very positive result, also because in contrast with the average in our sector that, in this historical moment, is losing about 30%. The start of the second half is then starting to send us very good feedback from some direct retailers such as Genoa, from the Prague franchise and, above all, we begin to generate the first substantial sales from the e-commerce channel, launched in May and already operational on the site. and from the social pages of Gismondi 1754. The digital channel will concentrate further efforts of the Company as the change in customer buying habits determined by Covid-19 has moved many buyers to online. We are ready to take this opportunity without distorting our sensitivity towards personal relationships and maximum attention towards our customers.
Massimo Gismondi, CEO of Gismondi 1754

Massimo Gismondi
Massimo Gismondi







VicenzaOro January closes with a record attendance





VicenzaOro January, the result. After closing the major winter jewelry fair, Ieg (the company that organizes VicenzaOro), has drawn conclusions. Some numbers are now known: 1,500 total exhibitors, but also over 35,000 admissions, the maximum of the last ten years and over 40 events.

VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com

In summary, the fair’s balance sheet indicates that visits from abroad are increasing, while the Italian market also seems to awaken. According to data from the Italian Exhibition Group, foreign incoming accounts for 60% of the total visits overall. Visitors who came from 126 foreign countries. Italy’s data was also positive: + 12%.

Il booth di Nanis a VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Il booth di Nanis a VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com

In detail, the United States leads the ranking of foreign countries most represented by operators with + 30% compared to 2019. Japan (+ 22%) also confirms the growing interest of strategic markets for Made in Italy production, as well as the near the Middle East (+ 6% overall). The Asia and Far East areas show + 4% overall. The macro-region of Africa + 7%. And Russia is also growing again with + 6%.
Tra i booth di VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Tra i booth di VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Visits from Europe, an area that is worth about 50% of the foreign presence in Vicenzaoro, mark + 9% on the increase, which was already double-digit in 2019, with attendance on the increase in particular from German-speaking countries. In short, the numbers seem to drive away any shadow: VicenzaOro not only resists, but insists successfully. And, above all, the increase occurs at a difficult time for other fairs and geopolitical tensions.
VicenzaOro January 2020. Copyright: gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro January 2020. Copyright: gioiellis.com

To help the success of VicenzaOro January we must remember the partnership with Ice (Agency for the promotion abroad and the internationalization of Italian companies), Confindustria Federorafi, Confartigianato, Confimi Goldsmith and silversmith industry and Cna. In particular, Ice has promoted specific activities on the US market resulting from 120 B2B meetings held in Vicenzaoro between very large American retail buyers and Italian companies.
L'area Icon di VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com
L’area Icon di VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Upcoming appointments with Ieg’s Jewelery Agenda: OoroArezzo (18-21 April), Vicenzaoro September (5-9 September) and Vod Dubai International Jewelery Show in the autumn.

VicenzaOro January 2020
VicenzaOro January 2020







The evaluation of VicenzaOro September is …





The VicenzaOro September evaluation is positive, assures the organizing company, Ieg ♦ ︎

VicenzaOro September is over, but the evaluation, probably, will be better continue it also in the coming months. Of course, if you read about the vast majority of specialized newspapers, on almost all of the (low) information sites, not to mention the celebrated blogs, that is luxury hobbies paid by the companies that foolishly invest on it, you will always find the copy and paste of the company announcements. Don’t call it information, please. In this specific case, you will find the press release of Italian Exhibition Group, that luckily relied on the skillful and expert skills of Barabino & Partners, the company that also handles communication for VicenzaOro.

VicenzaOro September 2019
VicenzaOro September 2019

This long introduction serves to start the topic. Why do the great European fairs dedicated to jewelery (but the discussion could expand) experience a not very positive moment? Not to mention disastrous if you consider the former industry leader, Baselworld, struggling with an avalanche of cancellations. From this point of view, VicenzaOro is better than its Swiss rival. Better, but certainly not at the levels of the golden years. It would be enough to count the illustrious absentees, from great Maison like Pasquale Bruni or Chimento (now out of play for years), to small companies like Garavelli, to understand how beyond the official communications, often unnecessarily triumphalistic, VicenzaOro also is victim with a certain disaffection.
Gioielli esposti a VicenzaOro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gioielli esposti a VicenzaOro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Let’s be clear: Ieg has nothing to do with it. Indeed, it is necessary to say thath society organizes the event as best as possible. The redesigned spaces, unlike what happened at Baselworld, did not give the idea of ​​a downsizing, which also occurred. And the pinwheel of side events have enriched the VicenzaOro September experience as always. The problem, in fact, is not linked to a managerial deficit. But in the end the true judgment is up to the participating companies, which go to a trade fair for business, not for tourism.
Il booth di Yoko London. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Il booth di Yoko London. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Ieg indicates in “about 1300 brands present” at VicenzaOro September, exactly like last year. Brands, not companies: the number of those who bought a space has been missing for some time.
On the other hand, the 10% growth of foreign operators, from 117 countries in the world, is an indisputable positive factor: a figure, explains Ieg, that is “in line with the already exceptionally positive trend of the last two editions and certifies the capacity of make a team” in the promotion and growth of an increasingly export-oriented sector. However, the real number on which it is based the percentage is missing.
Nel booth di Alessio Boschi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Nel booth di Alessio Boschi. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Overall, the growth of foreign operators was driven by the Middle East (+ 23%), North America (+ 22%), Russia and Ukraine (+ 19%) and Asia (+ 18%) with a particular increase in Japan (+ 43%). Europe, which remains the largest number of operators in Vicenzaoro (weighing 59%), remained stable with particularly positive signals from Portugal (+ 51%), Romania (+ 28%) and Austria (+ 9%) . During the five days of the event, over 500 buyers were hosted in Vicenza from all over the world, thanks to the support of the Ministry of Economic Development through the Italian Trade Commission for Foreign Trade. Also with regard to Italian operators, no number was communicated.
Ingresso a VicenzaOro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ingresso a VicenzaOro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

In VicenzaOro was marked an agreement of IEG with Assocoral, the association of producers of Corals and Cameos, for the enhancement of the Campania district. And an agreement with Afemo, a goldsmith machinery manufacturers’ association, for the promotion of the sector was signed at the opening of VicenzaOro. We should also mention the encore of the T-Evolution area, the technological and innovative soul of the exhibition.
Nel booth di Roberto Demeglio. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Nel booth di Roberto Demeglio. Copyright: gioiellis.com







More foreign to VicenzaOro January





The budget of VicenzaOro January: the jewelery fair is more and more international ♦ ︎

Turned off the lights of VicenzaOro January, closed the display cases where the jewels have shone, dismounted the booths that waiting visitors , the time has come to take stock. How did this edition of the biggest Italian jewelery fair go? Italian Exhibition Group, the company that organizes the event, does not offer an exhaustive overview of all the numbers, but ensures to be satisfied with the result.

In general, there seems to have been a greater international contribution.

VicenzaOro January, visitors. Copyright: gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro January, visitors. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Ieg, with greater enthusiasm, speaks of “formidable growth of foreign visitors”. In fact, the numbers comfort the optimism: there were over 60% of foreign operators. They had passed the Italians already in 2018, when had been a surge in arrivals from abroad. Indeed, the US and China have confirmed the performance of 2018, but also Europe has seen increasing presences: between Germany, Switzerland, Austria, + 12%, the United Kingdom (+ 11.7%), France (+ 10.5%) ), Spain (+ 9.6%), Northern Europe + 10.5%. The United Arab Emirates and Saudi Arabia are in strong recovery (after last year’s drops) + 24.2%. Even Russia and Ukraine have seen 10.4% more presences, with an exploit of Kazakhstan to + 46%. No data, however, regarding India, which in 2018 had seen an increase of 51%. The statement confines itself to indicating, instead, that “the origin of visitors from Italy has confirmed the positive figure of last year”.

VicenzaOro January, visitatori nel booth di Giovanni Ferraris
VicenzaOro January, visitatori nel booth di Giovanni Ferraris. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Chapter presences
VicenzaOro January closed with over 35,000 visitors. In 2018 there were 36,000, but the previous year 33,000. In short, we are average. As in previous years, the Ministry of Development, through the Ice (public authority for foreign trade), has helped by hosting over 400 buyers selected from the main markets, which have been added to over 2000 operators managed directly by IEG.
The brands in the display windows of the exhibitors were shown in 1500, more or less like last year, despite the forfait of historical brands such as Pasquale Bruni or Garavelli, but with the rentré of important Maison like Chantecler. In any case, 42% of the brands came from companies in 35 countries, like last year.

Ieg’s satisfaction also for the contemporary T.Gold, a show dedicated to technologies for the different processing of jewelery: now in its 41st edition, “it has confirmed its undisputed leadership at international level and its representative role of Italian technological excellence” . Next appointments of IEG: OroArezzo from 6 to 9 April and Premier Show in Las Vegas, 30 May – 3 June 2019.




Vetrine di Alessio Boschi
Vetrine di Alessio Boschi
VicenzaOro January
VicenzaOro January
Il booth di Fope
Il booth di Fope

Il booth di Roberto Coin
Il booth di Roberto Coin







GemGenève, the first one is good






The first edition of GemGenève was successful. And there are already those who would book for the fair of jewelry and gems next year ♦ ︎
GemGenève has convinced. The initiative of two jewelers and jewelers of Geneva, Ronny Totah (Horovitz & Totah) and Thomas Faerber (Faerber Collection), was successful. Let’s face it: not many, a couple of months ago, were ready to believe it. GemGenève was born as an alternative to Baselworld, although with characteristics and, above all, different dimensions. At Baselworld, a strong and convinced trade fair of its leadership moves straight on its line, with the precision of a Swiss watch that, even though now in a small size, has nevertheless attracted the participation of 1300 exhibitors. GemGenève, on the other hand, resembles a boutique for refined customers, where a hundred brands have been found, with a lot of precious stone dealers: the distance is sidereal.
But will it always be like this? For a start, GemGenève is thinking for a second ediction next year. And, unofficially, it transpires that applications for membership of the second GemGenève are double that of 2018. The boutique could expand.
“Yet the price of the individual exhibition spaces is not very different from that of Basel,” explains a long-standing exhibitor, who also takes part in the fairs in Vicenza, Las Vegas and Hong Kong. “But GemGenève is generally less expensive from a logistical point of view. Furthermore, the organization is certainly more friendly ».
The Geneva fair, in short, seems to have satisfied the participants, although there are those who stress that in the face of much interest, even by the buyers, of real business, signed, not many have been seen. But it is also understandable: despite the prominent names present GemGenève must still contend with the leadership of the other Swiss city and the looming (on the calendar) appointment in Las Vegas, which is also the capital of gambling. But for now the bet was won by Geneva.





Vetrina a GemGenève
Vetrina a GemGenève

Una tormalina watermelon africana
Una tormalina watermelon africana
Acquamarina da 130 carati e morganite di Nomads
Acquamarina da 130 carati e morganite di Nomads
GemGenève, vetrina di Dover Jewelry & Diamonds
GemGenève, vetrina di Dover Jewelry & Diamonds
GemGenève, visitatori
GemGenève, visitatori

GemGenève, insieme di booths
GemGenève, insieme di booths







Baselworld: win or flop?





Baselworld 2018, number of visitors unchanged. Here’s who is happy and who is puzzled among jewelers ♦ ︎
It depends. The final judgment on Baselworld 2018 can be summarized as follows: it depends. Because the Basel Watch and Jewelery Fair (22-26 March 2018) had two faces. One is the one summarized by two numbers: 1300 and 650. The first is the number of exhibitors, already declining, in 2017 (there were 1500 in 2016). The second is the number of exhibitors in 2018, less than half. A massacre. «A selection», he prefers to call it the managing director of Mch, the company that organizes Baselworld. But, in fact, it depends on the points of view. Faced with such a drastic reduction could have been much worse. The final balance of Baselworld 2018, in the words of the organizers is, if not exciting, at least sufficient. The number of visitors, for example, “has remained stable”. Since the fair lasted two days less, this is considered a success. At the moment we do not know the number of buyers present. 4,400 journalists came to Baselworld, 15% less from Europe, but 5% more from Asia. And if many big brands, such as Festina or Dior, this year have defected the Basel fair, Breitling, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Swatch, Chanel and Gucci have already announced that they will also be present next year, from 21 to 26 March 2019 .
And exhibitors? The opinions are different. Again, it depends. Among the opinions collected by gioiellis.com among jewelers, prevails a lack of enthusiasm for the new formula “concentrated”, which for some is “sad” when compared to the atmosphere that was breathed until a couple of years ago. But at the same time, many have confirmed that commercial activity has not been lacking and, therefore, the presence in Basel still has a reason for being. From the comments collected during the fair, we can summarize the mood:
We are equally satisfied: Fope, Pasquale Bruni, Nanis, Alessio Boschi, Tamara Comolli, Picchiotti, Messika, Mattioli, Rivière
Everything is OK, but some perplexities: Casato, Annamaria Cammilli, Leo Pizzo, Yoko London, Giovanni Ferraris, Djoula, Facet, Crivelli
No comment: Coronet, Sutra, Butani




Baselworld 2018
Baselworld 2018

Tra gli stand di Baselworld
Tra i booth di Baselworld
Visitatori a Baselworld
Visitatori a Baselworld
Ingresso alla messe
Ingresso alla messe

Modella di Jacob & co
Modella di Jacob & co







Sotheby’s budget with record




The 2017 year is closed with the world’s most expensive diamond world record for Sotheby’s ♦ ︎
Time for budgets also for Sotheby’s. The big auction house, which celebrated its 100th birthday in Bond Street in London in 2017, has however preferred not to go into the details of the individual divisions (jewelery, art, furniture, stamps, etc.), but has summarized its activity in an overall synthesys. Sales therefore reached $ 4.7 billion in 2017, an increase of 13.1%. He stressed, however, that online sales of jewelery at auctions are booming and that 23% of the lots were purchased via the internet. An interesting fact. And, without going into detail regarding the jewelry (it was a year of light and shade), Sotheby’s recalls the most successful pieces.
For example, the world record for diamond or precious stone auction with The Pink Star, later renamed The CTF Pink by buyer Chow Tai Fook. The 59,60-carat rose type IIa diamond was purchased for 71.2 million.
Sotheby’s has also set a record for the most expensive earrings auctioned with pear-shaped diamonds Apollo Blue and Artemis Pink, which weigh 14.54 carats and 16 carats respectively. They were sold as two separate lots and subsequently renamed The memory of autumn leaves and The dream of autumn leaves. The two earrings were sold for a total of 57.4 million.
Other highlights were a vivid 5.9 carats emerald-cut blue diamond, sold for 15.1 million, and a Piaget ring with a brilliant-cut pink diamond of 7.04 carats, sold for 13.2 Millions of dollars. Federico Graglia




The Pink Star con l'anello su cui è montato
The Pink Star con l’anello su cui è montato

Nel 2013 Pink Star è stato venduto per 83 milioni di dollari
Nel 2013 la pietra è stata venduta per 83 milioni di dollari
pink star 4
Il più grande diamante rosa fantasia, vivid, internamente perfetto
La coppia di orecchini con i diamanti Apollo Blue e Artemis Pink
La coppia di orecchini con i diamanti Apollo Blue e Artemis Pink
La Légende, diamante a cuore di 92,15 carati di Boehmer et Bassenge venduto per 14,9 milioni
La Légende, diamante a cuore di 92,15 carati di Boehmer et Bassenge venduto per 14,9 milioni
Exquisite Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond e Diamond Ring, venduto per 15,1 milioni di dollari
Exquisite Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond e Diamond Ring, venduto per 15,1 milioni di dollari

Anello con diamanti rosa purpureo intenso di Piaget
Anello con diamanti rosa purpureo intenso di Piaget







A 2017 with records for Christie’s




2017 was a golden year for Christie’s jewels, with a burst of records ♦
The end of the year is when the balance sheets of the past 12 months are made. It is a delicate moment and not always (or, better, often) this analysis is made public. As far as the jewelery world is concerned, this applies even more. A veil of confidentiality always hides the affairs of the great Maison and of the players in the sector. But not in one case: when business is good. Indeed, super good. This is the time, as regards 2017, of Christie’s, the great auction house also involved in the jewelry business. Christie’s, in fact, has made public the balance of the jewelry auctions that, the numbers confirm, is really flattering: 24 years as a leader of auctions of jewels. In fact, in 2017, Christie’s sold jewels for 556.7 million dollars. Among other things, online sales are also up (8.9 million), even if the lion’s share is still traditional auctions (547.8 million).
In this complex there are also a series of records, Christie’s proudly claims. For example, the world record for an Art Nouveau and Art Deco collection of a single owner, sold 100%, for a total of 12.4 million. Or the world record for an impeccable D-color diamond, achieved with the The Art of de Grisogono necklace, sold for 33.7 million dollars. Another success was the record auction price per carat reached for a pink diamond achieved with The Pink Promise (32.2 million dollars) and, to remain always in the same shade of diamonds, the record for the most historic diamond ever sold auctioned with Le Grand Mazarin (14.4 million).
“From the historic sale of The Rockefeller Emerald to Le Grand Mazarin and from de Grisogono’s 163.41 carat D Flawless diamond to the Pink Promise, 2017 has been a stellar year for jewelry at Christie’s. Nine new world record prices were achieved at our sales worldwide driven by intense competition from collectors who bid at the highest levels for important diamonds, rare gems and jewels, and superb objects. We
also saw immense growth in our Online sales which encouraged clients to enjoy the auction experience at all price points. As we move into 2018, our global team of jewelry specialists look forward to bringing to market the very best jewels for our clients.””said Rahul Kadakia, international jewelry manager, Christie’s. Who, probably, hopes to do an encore in 2018. Federico Graglia




The Pink Promise, diamante ovale fancy vivid pink diamond di 14.93 carati. Venduto per 32,163 milioni di dollari a Hong Kong
The Pink Promise, diamante ovale fancy vivid pink diamond di 14.93 carati. Venduto per 32,163 milioni di dollari a Hong Kong

The Art of de Grisogono, collana con diamante di 163,41 carati, venduta per 33,7 milioni
The Art of de Grisogono, collana con diamante di 163,41 carati, venduta per 33,7 milioni
La Légende, diamante a cuore di 92,15 carati di Boehmer et Bassenge venduto per 14,9 milioni
La Légende, diamante a cuore di 92,15 carati di Boehmer et Bassenge venduto per 14,9 milioni
Anello conun diamante fancy intense blue pot/IF diamante da 8.67 carati per 13,2 milioni
Anello conun diamante fancy intense blue pot/IF diamante da 8.67 carati per 13,2 milioni
Le Grand Mazarin, diamante rosa light, di 14,93 carati, venduto per 14,4 milioni, 758,4 per carato
Le Grand Mazarin, diamante rosa light, di 14,93 carati, venduto per 14,4 milioni, 758,4 per carato

Anello con diamante burmese di oltre 15 carati venduto per 12,9 milioni, alla cifra record di 861.000 per carato
Anello con diamante burmese di oltre 15 carati venduto per 12,9 milioni, alla cifra record di 861.000 per carato







Pandora at 2 billion

The modular bracelets of Pandora, joined with earrings and pendants, are booming. Based on preliminary reports, the turnover of the Danish company for 2015 has increased by about 40% compared to 2014, reaching 2 billion. The increase in sales, we say to the lovers of finance, it has been facilitated by the favorable currency change over the previous year to about 11%. All regions in which they are distributed Pandora jewelry have contributed a double-digit growth in local currency in the fourth quarter, primarily driven, with growth than more Christmas sales than expected. Revenue we said. But how earns Pandora on every bracelet that sells? Here is revealed: gross margin (Ebitda) is around 37%. We translate for the layman. On a bracelet from 100 Euro, Pandora earns gross 370. This figure, however, we must subtract the interest (financial management), taxes (fiscal management), the depreciation of assets and depreciation. What remains are the net profits and will be announced in February. Federico Graglia

(Italiano) Damiani: più vendite con i monomarca

Damiani for 2014 has increased in consolidated revenues from sales by 4.3% at current exchange rates (150.4 million). It’s a confirmation of a “solid and lasting growth” in the retail segment (+ 7.2%), which accounts for about 41% of total revenues. The profit is not there yet, but the losses were significantly reduced to 3.5 million against 8.6 in the previous budget. The board of directors of the group of Valenza approved the draft budget (which was closed on 31 March 2015). It improves, especially, the profitability: Ebitda (gross margin) consolidated exceeds 4 million euro (0,3 million euro in 2013). Apparently business is good, especially for single-brand Damiani, that between Italy and abroad, grew by 25%. In the wholesale segment also performed well (wholesale) most adversely affected in the past by the consumption crisis, it made a recovery with revenues up 2.4%. Damiani manages 54 direct points of sale, including 41 single brand. Investments around the world have, however, worsened the debt, which rose to 50.5 million against 40.8 at March 31, 2014: one overcooked inevitable if the company wants to support the expansion in markets outside the borders. An example is the project Damiani Ginza Tower, which is the transformation of a nine-storey building, located in the central Chuo-street of the Ginza district in Tokyo. In the building will be located the new Damiani boutique and a VIP room, which will occupy four floors of the building and the offices of the Japanese subsidiary of the group. The conclusion of the work of construction and the opening of the boutique is scheduled for the summer. Federico Graglia

Rocca 1794, corner Damiani
Rocca 1794, corner Damiani
Da sinistra, Giorgio Grassi Damiani, la signora Montolivo, Guido Grassi Damiani e Riccardo Montolivo
Da sinistra, Giorgio Grassi Damiani, la signora Montolivo, Guido Grassi Damiani e Riccardo Montolivo

New ceo at Damiani group

The Damiani Group is the only one luxury company listed on the Italian Stock Exchange. As such it is required to give account of his business every three months: an exercise uncomfortable, but that provides transparency to investors. Here, then, the accounts of the company from Piedmont in the first nine months of 2014-2015 (the budget closes every 31 March). Taking into account that in Italy the consumption is falling for all, the accounts are not too bad, in fact, show signs of recovery. In the accounts at December 31, 2014, revenues were up 5% at constant exchange rates, to 115.4 million euro. The good news is the growth in sales in the retail segment (+ 6.3%), and in particular the brand Damiani (58 direct sales outlets) is what pulls more, an increase of 22%. The retail channel, accounts for about 40% of the total turnover of the group. A little ‘in contrast with the rest of the market, Damiani also shows an increase in Italy by more than 5%, while overseas the revenue totaled an increase of 3.5% at constant rates, and 2.3% in current rates compared to the same period previous year, affected mainly by the devaluation of the yen. Positive gross margin (Ebitda) is of 5.2 million euro, with an improvement of 4.9 million euro compared to 31 December 2013. But the result remains a negative, albeit reduced: the nine months closed with eur -1.4 million, which still means an improvement of 61.6% compared to a year ago. No good news also from the negative net financial position of 50.2 million euro (40.8 million euro at March 31, 2014), but “as a result of seasonality and investments made during the period.”
But there is also a major innovation at the management of the group: the board of directors, “in view of the increasing direct involvement of President Guido Grassi Damiani in the process of internationalization of the Group, whose strategy is increasingly focused at a direct presence in foreign markets, has approved the appointment to the post of ceo of Damiani spa of vice president Giorgio Grassi Damiani, with control over operational management of Italian society. “Essentially Guido Grassi Damiani will continue to make the ambassador of the group around the world, while the reins operational industrial pass to his brother George. Federico Graglia

Un anno di titolo Damiani in Borsa
Un anno di titolo Damiani in Borsa
Giorgio Grassi Damiani con star cinesi
Giorgio Grassi Damiani con star cinesi
Giorgio Grassi Damiani con il calciatore Hidetoshi Nakata
Giorgio Grassi Damiani con il calciatore Hidetoshi Nakata
Da sinistra, Giorgio Grassi Damiani, la signora Montolivo, Guido Grassi Damiani e Riccardo Montolivo
Da sinistra, Giorgio Grassi Damiani, la signora Montolivo, Guido Grassi Damiani e Riccardo Montolivo
Giorgio Grassi Damiani con Sofia Loren
Giorgio Grassi Damiani con Sofia Loren

Per Damiani semestre in bianco e nero

Anelli della collezione Battito d'ali
Anelli della collezione Battito d’ali

Nel primo semestre dell’anno fiscale 2014/2015 Damiani rivede l’utile lordo. Una nota della società sottolinea «un trend positivo che si protrae ormai da cinque esercizi che testimonia l’apprezzamento sempre crescente del brand da parte del consumatore finale». I ricavi dal canale retail hanno raggiunto il 44,1% dei ricavi da vendite, in ulteriore crescita rispetto al primo semestre dell’esercizio precedente.

Il flagship store Damiani a Shanghai
Il flagship store Damiani a Shanghai

Nel corso del primo semestre (che va da marzo a settembre, dato che il bilancio di Damiani si chiude al 31 marzo) l’azienda piemontese, che ha celebrato quest’anno i 90 anni di attività, ha però registrato vendite per 62,1 milioni di euro, rispetto ai 65,0 milioni di euro registrati nell’analogo periodo dell’esercizio precedente, con una variazione negativa del -3,8% a tassi di cambio costanti e del -4,5%, a tassi di cambio correnti. In compenso, l’Ebitda (utile lordo) consolidato è positivo per 100mila euro. Poco, ma sempre meglio del dato negativo di –3 milioni al 30 settembre 2013. Miglioramento merito, continua la nota, «di azioni di riorganizzazione interna». Premesso questo, il risultato operativo consolidato resta negativo, anche se in miglioramento: –2,2 milioni di euro, rispetto ai –4,6 milioni dello scorso anno. In definitiva, nei primi sei mesi il gruppo ha chiuso «con un risultato netto consolidato di competenza negativo e pari a -3,4 milioni di euro rispetto ai -6,1 milioni di euro conseguiti il 30 settembre 2013». Anche i debiti sono cresciuti: la posizione finanziaria è negativa per 47 milioni di euro, rispetto ai 40,8 milioni registrati al 31 marzo scorso. Ma l’azienda fa sapere che «la variazione è principalmente riconducibile alle dinamiche stagionali dei flussi finanziari».

Giorgio Damiani e Hidetoshi Nakata
Giorgio Damiani e Hidetoshi Nakata

Da registrare anche che nei sei mesi passati Damiani è uscita dal segmento Star di Borsa Italiana. Uno dei motivi è anche la «la riduzione del flottante (cioè delle azioni trattate in Borsa ndr) al di sotto della soglia del 20% del capitale, minimo richiesto per la presenza nel segmento Star e dall’obiettivo di focalizzare la struttura del gruppo sul core business». Damiani resta ancora quotata a Piazza Affari ma le azioni liberamente scambiate si assottigliano. A questo si aggiungono volumi particolarmente elevati negli ultimi giorni. Qualcuno si potrebbe chiedere se, per caso, l’intenzione sia quella di un prossimo addio al listino.

Sempre nel semestre concluso a settembre, l’azienda ha proceduto con la fusione per incorporazione tra Damiani S.p.A. e Rocca S.p.A., «operazione è finalizzata ad assicurare una maggiore funzionalità del Gruppo, sotto il profilo economico e finanziario, e si inserisce nell’ambito delle azioni di riorganizzazione già in gran parte realizzate nei precedenti esercizi».damiani

Damiani, in ogni caso, è molto attiva sul piano del rilancio. Lo scorso ottobre, insieme all’ex calciatore giapponese Hidetoshi Nakata, ha lanciato la nuova collezione Metropolitan Dream by H. Nakata con l’obiettivo di reperire risorse per sostenere il progetto Home for all, lanciato nel 2011 e diretto dall’architetto Toyo Ito, per aiutare le vittime del terremoto che ha colpito il Giappone nel marzo 2011 nella ricostruzione delle città colpite e di migliorare la vita quotidiana della comunità.

Semester in improvement for Damiani

In the first half of fiscal year 2014/2015 Damiani revises the gross profit. A note of the company emphasizes “a positive trend that has lasted for five years testifies to the growing appreciation of the brand by the end consumer.” Revenues from retail channel reached 44.1% of revenues from sales, a further increase over the first half of the previous year.

During the first six months (from March to September, because the financial statements of Damiani closes March 31) the Piedmont company, which this year celebrated 90 years in business, has posted sales of 62.1 million euro, compared to 65.0 million euro in the same period of the previous year, a decrease of -3.8% at constant exchange rates and -4.5% at current exchange rates . On the other hand, Ebitda (gross profit) consolidated is positive for 100 thousand euro. Little, but still better than the negative figure of -3 million at September 30, 2013. The Improvement, a note continues, is the result “of internal reorganization.” That said, the consolidated operating profit remains negative, although improving: -2.2 million euro, compared to 4.6 million last year. Ultimately, in the first six months, the group closed with a consolidated net profit attributable negative and amounted to -3.4 million compared to EUR -6.1 million euro achieved September 30, 2013. Even the debts have grown: the financial position was negative for 47 million euro, compared to 40.8 million recorded at 31 March. But the company says that “the change was mainly due to the seasonal dynamics of financial flows.”

Moreover, in the past six months Damiani left the Star segment of the Italian Stock Exchange. One of the reasons is also the “reduction of the free float (shares traded on the Stock Exchange ndr) below the threshold of 20% of the capital, the minimum required for the presence in the Star segment. The focus is on the structure of the group core business. Damiani is still listed on the stock exchange but the shares freely traded dwindle. Added to this are particularly high volumes in recent days. Someone might wonder if, by chance, the intention is the delisting.

Also in the first half ended in September, the company proceeded with the merger between Damiani SpA and Rocca SpA, “operation aims to ensure greater functionality of the Group, from the economic and financial environment, and is part of the reorganization already largely made in previous years.”

Damiani, in any case, is very active in terms of the relaunch. Last October, together with former Japanese footballer Hidetoshi Nakata, has launched the new collection Metropolitan Dream by H. Nakata with the aim of raising funds to support the project Home for All, launched in 2011 and directed by the architect Toyo Ito, to help victims of the earthquake that hit Japan in March 2011 in the reconstruction of the affected cities and to improve the daily life of the community.