Elie Top, the creative mechanism between the Seventeenth and 3D technology.
It is one of the new names of the jewelry, but is already talked about him. Because it’s hard to forget Elie Top: his jewels have the rare advantage of being completely different from the others, without incurring the sin of bizarreness. He began his career in jewelry design with the legendary Loulou de la Falaise to Yves Saint Laurent, to work then with Alber Elbaz at Lanvin. Well, as always it happens to the creative people who have something to add, he now is out on his own. Everything is produced in France, but without ignoring the more advanced techniques, such as 3D. In fact, her jewelry is a masterpiece of engineering. The collection Mécaniques Celestes, for example, is inspired in part by the astrological clocks of the seventeenth and eighteenth century, with rotation of the discs elements that reveal previously hidden elements, such as the central sphere diamond-studded ring in gold and silver (price: $ 13145). The idea is to play on the concept of open / closed. She loves working with hard gemstones and semi-hard, as labradorite, rock crystal, chalcedony, tourmaline, citrine, quartz. It’s a largely aesthetic aspect linked to the jewel plus the desire to accumulate precious materials. If you like her jewelry, Elie Top opened a boutique on the rue Saint-Honoré, Paris. But you do not think it’s a jewelry store like everyone else: look for yourself. Lavinia Andorno
Vhernier, best-selling of autumn
Vhernier with two classic lines: these are the prices of the brooch Bruco and the Pirouette rings.
Let’s face it now: there are no new pieces. But for the new season Vhernier has decided to revive the classics like the brooch Bruco and the series of Pirouette rings. We are able to show prices. The Brooch Bruco, which is available in three different sizes, has a price that starts at 6,750 euro. The Pirouette rings start at € 3,050 for the gold version rose up to 48.350 for the full pavé white diamonds. The brooch Bruco is made on a white gold basis, with a layer of black onyx or white mother pearl combined with a body made of rock crystal, where are inserted diamonds. Betting everything on the transparencies, technique used by the Maison. The Pirouette ring has long been a classic Vhernier. Its design is unmistakable: a domed volume is cut on the bias, which accompanies the shape of the fingers. In addition to the rose gold version, there is one in full pavé diamonds, white or blacks, made only with the finest stones to cut, color and clarity. The casing is practiced using two griffes: a process that requires many hours of work and allows to obtain a carpet of diamonds, exceptionally bright because virtually free of metal between a stone and the other.
The crystals Swarovski played by Jean Paul Gaultier.
Jean Paul Gaultier and Swarovski: marriage is not only in name but also in fact. The fashion designer, in fact, invents not only a collection for the Austrian brand of bijoux with his particular modern-romantic style (more modern than romantic), but has also designed new innovative forms for crystals of the Maison. Specifically, here is the Kaputt cut, available in four versions. The German word, which means “broken”, was developed by Swarovski technical team. Broken, in this case, means also unpredictable. It’s a stylistic rupture of symmetries, irregular reflections. In part, the crystals are frosted glass, and for someone with a vague aspect as a meteorite. Each crystal is cut by laser to achieve maximum accuracy and with engraved famous logo Jean Paul Gaultier. The green crystal and crystal effect Scarabaeus Scarabaeus Green Pearl were designed to complete the collection. The color is inspired by the verdigris roof of the Paris Opera House, and the glittering metallic luster green-blue-purple beetle, a once adored by the ancient Egyptians. Yet the impression is of a future-tech. Rudy Serra
De grisogono gone with the wind
Fringe and Ventaglio (Fan) signed de Grisogono, but not only for the summer.
The soft breeze of a traditional fan is more pleasant air conditioning. And in winter the range can take a simple decorative function. At this traditional accessory, used in many hot countries, it is dedicated to a collection by de Grisogono, jeweler based in Geneva. Ventaglio is simply a collection that consists of four pairs of earrings, but they are particularly fascinating jewels. They have a shape reminiscent of a fan, with diamond lines, sapphires and amethysts of different colors and shades, made from strips of alternating light and darker color, always in the same key. Although the collection only includes earrings, almost the same motif is in the Frange collection. In this case there are three rings, also in this case made around a shade of color, with pink gold, white and brown diamonds or pink sapphires. The stones are arranged as if they entered into a wind tunnel, following a direction. The outer stones are mobile (fringes, in fact), and emphasize the dynamic feel. Alessia Mongrando
Gucci with tigers and snakes
New animals among Gucci jewelry: after the bees, tigers and snakes.
The busy bees of Gucci are becoming increasingly common and, indeed, are now joined by a small zoo. The collection Le Marché des Merveilles, already launched in late 2015, re-launched at Baselworld 2016 was revived with a few more pieces also to Las Vegas Couture Show. In addition to the insect industrious in the form of ring, necklace and earrings in yellow gold or 18K rose, they appeared a necklace with pendant and an exotic-looking ring and with the shape of tiger (which looks like a cat). They are made of white and blacks diamonds and emeralds, while the pendant, the big chain and ring are both made of 18K rose gold. There are also three rings in the shape of snake with diamonds and stones, that are on the body knotted of the precious reptile. You can choose with green tourmaline and topaz, blue topaz and blue sapphires, and in 18kt white gold with black ruthenium finish, but there is also a version in pink gold. The jewelry is very finished and are placed on a higher level than the busy bees of the Marché des Meraveilles: on the other hand, not everything that is on the market has the same price. Giulia Netrese
A Puzzle Ring by Mattioli
New entry in the collection of Puzzle by Mattioli.
The Turin-based Mattioli, in the sixties has launched a series of jewelry that a couple of years ago were be resumed and proposed (we talked about here). The Puzzle Collection is proposed now at VicenzaOro September with the same geometric pattern for the rings. The jewelry line has as a characteristic the ability to add and remove colors, as in an abstract painting: you can buy a whole palette and change the hue in earrings and pendants. More than a puzzle, in fact, the line was inspired by artists such as Kandinsky, Mondrian and Calder, champions of abstract art. But even if you are not masters of painting, you can combine at will small pieces trapezoidal with rounded corners that make up the collection, made with colorful mother pearl and wood. Versatility is the main feature: the necklace 7 ways binds to the armband to become long necklace and be worn up to seven different ways. The earring with mother pearl elements has a new version in plain gold, fully pavé with diamonds or sapphires. Alessia Mongrando
The new collection of Yvona Christa NY VicenzaOro that will be unveiled in September.
In Glamroom zone of VicenzaOro September, the dynamic Swedish designer duo transplanted in the US who have given life to Yvone Christa New York, will present a new collection of jewelry. Theme of the collection are the flowers. As always, the brand interprets the idea of using the construction technique that prefers, and that is with a filigree work. Stones like amethysts or carnelian are color dots on silver worked into wires that are woven to form lightweight earrings, necklaces and rings. In some cases a pearl is used in a ring in place of a cabochon. The overall effect is a little ‘jewel of the grandmother with the subtle embroidery and pastel colors, but you can also go with a modern clothing, with a nice contrast.
Hot summer for Carla Amorim
A hot summer for the Brazilian brand Carla Amorim. Kelly Amorim, co-owner along with her sister, Carla, of luxury jewelry with headquarters in Sao Paulo, participated in Tuscany to a charity treasure hunt, the Art Treasure Hunt, between Siena and Florence. At the same time, the Maison debuted with the insignia of the exclusive store Moda Operandi. Kelly was in Tuscany among wine cellars with wine barrels and contemporary works of art: the hunt it also served to put up for auction, in favor of a center for Syrian refugees in Lebanon, a earrings with emeralds and diamonds for 13 carat designed by Carla Amorim, and donated for the occasion. On the online store, however, the brand follows the philosophy that connects the architecture to jewelry, with the use of four shades of gold combined with peziose stones like diamonds, but also to the moonstone, morganite, turquoise and pearls. They are jewels with a substantial presence, but at the same time they can also be worn during the day. Prices: from 1,800 to 4900 dollars for a pair of gold earrings and diamonds. Lavinia Andorno
The next autumn Swarovski will make you see the stars. But there will be no need to use a telescope: space and planets are, however, the inspiration of the Crystal Galaxy jewelery collection, which is the main idea for the Fall / Winter 2016-17. The proposal of the Austrian brand embraces five different lines of jewelry, which all revolve around the same theme. Funk proposes pointy shapes jewels: the jewelry are made of pink gold PVD and rhodium metal. Flash is made with large circles symbolize the majesty of the planets, especially the rigid necklace, where three overlapping concentric rounds. The materials are PVD rose gold and pavé of transparent crystals. The Fun collection is characterized by shades of blue and blue, with rhodium-plated metal. the Foam collection: this too is inspired by the heavenly bodies, planets, stars and galaxies, is always in PVD rose gold. Finally, Crystalline Oval: is always part of the line, but it is a watch with oval case. The captions also find the prices. Alessia Mongrando
It is already time to think about autumn or, rather, to take a look at upcoming collections. Here, for example, there are the innovations signed by the American designer Michael Kors, as always produced by Fossil, holding the brand license for the jewelry and watches. The novelties are called fringes and crystals that characterize the Fall 2016 collection The fringes are used to a large IP Gold steel necklace (price: 149 euros) and a pair of earrings, always gold-plated steel (99 euro). Another new feature is the finish “sable” for some pieces, like a bracelet (price: 99 euros), while the inserts in black acetate are present as in past collections of the brand. The American designer has just opened a new flagship store in London’s Regent Street. Lavinia Andorno
Delfina Delttrez starts again from ABC
About Delfina Delettrez, daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi and the French jeweler Bernard Delettrez, we talked about it several times and it would be unfair to indicate her as “daughter of.” Since from her debut the designer showed a personality that has resulted in a chorus of praise on the international press. Of course, the origins have favored the way to go on stage, but the rest it’s just for her skill. After the shaped jewelry eyes or lip-shaped brooches, the Italian designer proposes a new collection, called ABC. It is always very simple, and from this point of view does not betray the modern style that has characterized the beginnings. At the same time, however, it seems a bit ‘more classical. Gold, diamonds and pearls are the material on which he worked Delfina. They are jewels for anything too strange, even if the design is unique and you remember. Perhaps, than the other creations of the designers, these are jewels that refer to basic principles, hence the choice of the ABC name. Alessia Mongrando
The Dior silk under the lens
Ogni tanto è bene fermarsi a osservare. Certo, guardare tante immagini di una collezione è divertente. Però ci sono casi come questo bracciale di Dior che vale la pena di osservare da vicino se siete davvero appassionati di gioielli. È frutto della fantasia del direttore creativo del settore gioielli della Maison, Victoire de Castellane. Con questo bracciale in oro ha voluto imitare il movimento avvolgente, morbido e arricciato della seta. Un compito non semplice. Eppure il risultato è difficilmente riproducibile: il bracciale sembra davvero composto da morbido tessuto su cui sono appoggiati diamanti bianchi e colorati. Ma la collezione (ne abbiamo già parlato qui), che si rinnova di continuo e ha le radici nel lontano 1940, comprende pezzi con anche smeraldi, zaffiri, rubini. Ogni gioiello è un’impresa notevole di ingegneria, come si vede nel filmato. Quando si valuta il prezzo di un pezzo di alta gioielleria, spesso non si considera il tempo e i materiali impiegati. Per realizzare questo bracciale, per esempio, ci sono volute 2000 ore di lavorazione, 1.692 diamanti bianchi e colorati, un diamante giallo di 6.04 carati. Margherita Donato
The unique tale of Suzanne Syz
The Ritz Hotel in Paris, recently renovated, has opened the doors of Place Vendȏme to Suzanne Syz. The designer, during a night in the new concept store reserved to few selected guests, showed the latest creations of her Art Jewels. Born in Zurich, she grew up in Paris, after her apprenticeship in New York, Suzanne Syz has been established in Geneva, when she does not reside in her house in the countryside of Tuscany. But, in reality, she travels a lot. Her unique pieces are very unique, in that they do not look like those of no other and would not even easily replicable. She has her own style, without compromise. In the evening at the Ritz, for example, she presented a titanium ring with a big sapphire cabochon Burmese or, rather, without facets and with a slightly irregular shape. Titanium has been used also for a pair of earrings from the name East meet West, constituted as from so many small fans aligned. Less geometric and more storytelling, instead, the bracelet dedicated to the fairy tale by the Brothers Grimm: consists of carved frogs in chrysophrase, along with diamonds, rubies and garnets that form the leaves of water lilies. The jewel of course awaits the kiss of a princess or a prince who purchases it. Margherita Donato
The Pokemon rings
Ok, we know that most of you will read this news with skepticism. But perhaps you don’t are among the millions fans of Pokémon Go. For those who do not know, we explain that it is a game that is inspired by the cartoon characters 20 years ago, the Pokemon, which are now used in some sort of video game in which you participate with your smartphone. It’s kind of hunting in which you have to virtually capture of Pokemon characters that appear in the most unexpected places and are displayed on the screen of your smartphone. It has become a craze, which is involving, in fact, an army of fans around the world. If, by chance, you have a girlfriend or boyfriend who has this passion, you can now choose a safe gift: the jewelery inspired by Pokemon. They are of course, produced in Japan and include the classic gold or silver engagement ring with diamond. Plus, of course, a character in the saga. The jewelry is produced by U-Treasure. The price can be loved also by Pikachu: about 750 euros the gold version, less than 300 euros the silver version. Rudy Serra
The Amori by Al Coro
The Italian style abroad, in Germany: it’s explain the success of a brand, Al Coro, born half a century ago at the initiative of an Italian jeweler, Giuliano Corolli. He has developed his company in the german country, but the brand’s debuted in Italy, in VicenzaOro. On the other hand, Corolli was born in Vicenza, where he learned his craft. It was 1964. Since then, the German-Italian Maison has developed its path and its aesthetics, so that the “Corolli design” means a certain way to present in a rich way, with generous sized jewelry. What was a workshop, it was thus transformed in the brand Al Coro, thanks to the founder’s sons, Alexander and Daniel. It is they who have succeeded in the difficult art of combining an Italian taste with the demands of the German market and, more generally, of the North people. A street that is also pleasing to the Mediterranean customers, as the pieces of the collection Amori, that will be visible to VicenzaOro of September. There are sumptuous rings, with different shades of gold that combine with stones like quartz smoky brown, amethyst and citrine yellow. Giulia Netrese
Cartier, Cactus collection
Desire to wear something different: Cartier decided to take a very pointed way with the Cactus collection. To the plant that grows in sunny and dry places, but capable of glowing blooms, are inspired by the jewels of the collection presented in Paris. In addition to assume forms that resemble plants bristling with thorns, the jewelry often take up the colors of cactus, through the use of stones like emerald, chrysoprase or carnelian. In some cases the stones are treated as beads mounted close to each other, in a sort of gibbous surface. In all, the collection consists of 13 pieces, with the yellow gold that is well suited to the dry climate of the cacti, where also flourish diamonds, lapis lazuli and tanzanite. All jewels are XL size: impossible not to notice them. On the other hand, all good things have hidden thorns. Lavinia Andorno
And now, the diamond with passport
From now on you you can ask for the passport to the diamond. But you must buy a jewel by a brand with has a name that says it all: Hauthentic. It is the brand of Raoul Beck company’s, that trade in diamonds and jewels of Antwerp, Belgium, and based in Geneva, Switzerland. The brand Hauthentic allow you to know the specific history of each central diamond set in jewelry. The traceability of diamonds was previously guaranteed by the Kimberley Process, that is applied only to raw gemstones: it’s a certification agreement, which allows you to determine that the exporters not to finance civil wars when selling diamonds. Now, however, the transparency is extended to cut diamonds sold in jewelry. Beck documents all the processing steps of each diamond sold by the company, from extraction of raw gem in the country of origin up to cutting and finishing performed by the expert, and subsequent embedding in the jewel: this peculiar journey is illustrated with precision in the Diamond Passport. La Maison Raoul Beck has ancient roots: founded in 1860, is the fifth generation. Federico Graglia
Milor, the goal is to diversify
His latest creation is the Bronzallure brand (we talked about here). But actually the Milor Group, based in Milan, is active in jewelery since 1979 and has his wallet even brands such as Etrusca and Modora, already established. Founded by Joseph Mouhadab, trader of precious metals and stones, Milor has continued diversifying its activities on jewelry you different type. It is a solid company, which follows the entire production process of the different collections, from design to construction. Add to three autonomous brand, there is Creative Lab, called “creative system in evolution, a laboratory where the most fantastic ideas become collections of fashionable jewelry.” By Creative Lab are the pieces like the ones you can see on this page, divided into lines like Milor Gold, Silver Milor, Milor Steel, Milor Zirconia, Milor Crystal, Gemstones Milor, Milor Bronze. To spread of its jewels, in Europe, the United States and the Middle East, have also contributed partnerships with major television broadcasters, as Qvc, which allowed Milor jewels to be distributed immediately in the international arena. Margherita Donato
New puzzle with Mattioli
Maybe do you want to do (or make to yourself) a gift. For example, a pair of earrings. Ok, but what color? Best to go on the classic yellow gold? Or choose a shade that goes with a particular dress? Yeah, but in this way then the earrings will stand not well with others … A question that Mattioli decided to overcome thanks to Kandinsky, Mondrian and Calder. Are the three artists, masters of abstract art, the inspirers of Puzzle collection. The idea is great fun: combine a pair of earrings, ring, bracelet or necklace with a whole palette of colors with which to transform the jewels. Wood and mother of pearl colored are the components of this gem composed of many elements that can be worn alone, or applied on a bracelet or necklace. There is also a version with paved white diamonds, or a gold version with small dangling earrings, as entry level. The design of the jewels of the collection is a reinterpretation of the historic line of jewelry designed in the sixties. An updated version of 2014 is on display at the Museum of Vicenza jewelery. Box Price: 900 euros. Lavinia Andorno
The water features by Alessio Boschi
There is all spirit of the Roman Baroque in Alessio Boschi necklace, dedicated to Piazza Navona. We saw it in Basel among Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds and white diamonds that evoke water features, palladium and gold rose that shape mythological figures. The jewel is an architectural and iconographic map, from small details, such as the rectangular plaque hanging from clasp which is like the square commissioned by Pope Innocent X, the area formerly occupied by the Emperor Domitian stadium.
The three blue baguette symbolize the three fountains, but also the three lilies of the Pamphili’s arms, the Pope’s family. On the right, after a succession of concave emeralds Zambia, Mozambique Paraiba tourmalines, white diamonds, here are the Tritons of the Moro’s Fountain, the one who is taming a dolphin and those with shell horns from which flows water. All figures are in palladium 950, and rose gold plated to bring out the plasticity of modeling, such as the mermaid and the god Neptune, the namesake fountain, represented on the left side. But it is in everything that revolves around the imposing Paraiba tourmaline 80.5 carat and cut into pillow, where the spirit of Woods coincides perfectly with the definition of the Baroque given by the historian Bruno Zevi: a free spirit and a creative attitude. Plus the overwhelming imagination of an artist jeweler like Boschi.
In fact, the composition revolves around the characteristics of transparency, the stone and the choice to build a narration even on the back of the gem: held by four figures who personify the four rivers of the homonymous fountain in the center of the square. Between the Nile, Ganges, Danube and Rio de la Plata, the frame is engraved on the green background water of tourmaline with the shape of the obelisk, that in reality dominates the sculptural complex surrounded by lilies and a palm, elements of the Pamphili arms. In the same collection, inspired by the fountains, there is a ring with an extraordinary beryl as color and sheen and the Paraiba tourmalines degrade to represent the water foam. Two sculptural compositions, to see the wow effect look at them on Valeria Boschi. Monica Battistoni