Sadler’s Wells has presented in London the world premiere of On the other side, the third installment of the Gems trilogy of the dancer and choreographer Benjamin Millepied. What does this have to do with jewels? Simple: the event has the support of Van Cleef & Arpels, which is also famous for its brooches depicting classic dancers. Created by Benjamin Millepied with his L.A. company Dance Project, the trilogy is now complete, also thanks to the music by Philip Glass. Designer Alessandro Sartori and the American artist Mark Bradford, have contributed to the trilogy, by signing respectively the costumes and scenes for the new ballet. The previous chapters were represented in 2013 and 2014. The dance is a theme addressed many times by Van Cleef & Arpels. The first dancer brooches of the Maison were created in 1940 in New York, at the request of Louis Arpels, lover of classical opera and dance. They soon became highly sought after by collectors. Grandson, Claude Arpels, was also a great friend of George Balanchine and with him he created one of the most famous ballets: Jewels, inspired by emeralds, rubies and diamonds. The first performance was held in New York in April of 1967. Now, with the support to this trilogy, the bond between Van Cleef & Arpels and the ballet is renewed. Rudy Serra
Dream, Light and Water of Wallace Chan
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He is a Chinese artist lent to the jewelry world. She is an Italian publishing house. Together they produced a book on his work, Wallace Chan, who took seven years to find the perfect style of photography to stop in an image its elaborate unique pieces. The book, Wallace Chan, Dream Light Water will be for a few like his jewelry. It is, in fact, a limited edition, with 86 pictures of of the most celebrated Asian designer jewelry. And the book comes out just when Wallace Chan became the first Chinese jewelry artist to exhibit his work at the TEFAF, the prestigious art fair in Maastricht (Netherlands). If you are in London on June 27th, among other things, the Hong Kong master has planned to present the book at the Victoria & Albert Museum (but places are limited and you need to get an early ticket). The book will be presented by the jewelry expert Vivienne Becker. But, apart from the social event, it can be interesting to browse the volume that contains, in addition to the images, even the artist-jeweler’s philosophy, which is led by a Zen spirituality and of course, by his aesthetic sense. And if you are fans of Chan, and you do not have a copy of the book and even you can’t be present at the Victoria & Albert Museum, there is another opportunity: the exhibition of 40 of his creations of unique pieces from June 30 to July 6, always in London.
Wallace Chan, Dream Light Water
Rizzoli, Aa.Vv. 246,99 € (online price)
At Victoria & Albert Museum
Cromwell Road, London – SW7 2RL
www.vam.ac.uk/
19: 00-20: 45
Dior, London variation
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Red, white and blue for the opening of a new Dior boutique in London at New Bond Street. To celebrate the big event the French Maison has created a few variations, in limited edition, on the most representative pieces of the fine jewelry Archi Dior collection and chose rubies, diamonds and sapphires to honor the Union Jack. But the colors are also those of the French flag, and indeed the tone of these precious stones and jewelery shapes retain perfectly the spirit of the house. For example, the ring Archi Dior Bar en Corolle, inspired by the design of the famous Bar suit with narrow cinched waist and the fluttering edges of the Corolle dress, is in white gold with rubies or sapphires of different sizes, while the metal shaped like a pleating makes this a sophisticated and unconventional piece in spite of it being monochromatic. Milieu du Siecle originally conceived in pink gold and colorless diamonds to remind the stratified curves of Junon evening gown, in the English version the petals are strewn with blood-red rubies and pink sapphires. A review of a another famous collection Cygne with earrings and rings that delicately encircle intense blue sapphires, purple spinels and rubies. M.d.B.
Auctions, Sotheby’s opens the dances
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It opens the new season of the great auction of jewelry. In London, March 16, Sotheby’s will selling Art Deco jewelery, precious stones, small masterpieces of goldsmith. The selection of jewelry includes pieces ranging from the nineteenth century to the present day. On average the estimate ranges from 1,000 to 60,000 sterlins. There are not big diamonds, in a nutshell, but there are jewelry from Van Cleef and Cartier, Raymond Yard and Marcus and Co. The stones, however, are not lacking: there are diamonds and colored gemstones, including some Burmese rubies, Colombian emeralds, and one sapphire of Kashmir. The piece that has the highest pre-sale estimate is a bracelet with diamonds and sapphires in 1930, estimated 60 to 80,000 pounds. Follows a necklace from Thirties of diamonds and rubies, valued 50-70000 pounds. A fancy yellow diamond mounted on a ring oscillates on 45-65000 euro. Also interesting are a diamond and sapphire pendant 1910 and necklace with a pendant carved Janesich moonstone. Federico Graglia
In London, the jewelry designs
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If you go to London, do not miss going to see the exhibition Master of Design, organized by Sotheby’s in New Bond Street on some of the greatest designs of jewelry. But the protagonist, for once, is the preparation work for the realization of jewels: in particular, the drawings depicting rings, bracelets and earrings before they work in the laboratories of gold. To admire, there are hundreds of new designs of the most prestigious Maison, such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron, Vegetable, Rubin and Bolin. The period is from 1890 to 1960. You can see, for example, drawings of historical pieces, such as Tutti Frutti jewels by Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels creations of the Art Deco period. There are also curiosities, such as projects for jewels tailored to famous customers, such as the Vanderbilts family or the Princess Marie Bonaparte, who contributed to the jewelry project that have not been marketed for the general public. Not to be missed. Federico Graglia
The master design
Sotheby’s, London
34-35 New Bond Street, W1S 2RT
Metro: Oxford Circus
Hours: 9: 30-04: 30, every day
Until 8 March
Pythagorean Noor Fares
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Noor Fares is a designer of Lebanese descent. She was born and raised in Paris, and after she moved to London. If you are looking jewelry different from others and you like the geometry, Noor Fares is the right person. No coincidence that his first collection was called Geometry 101. Pendants, earrings and rings based on pure volumes, spheres that enclosed by virtual surfaces, bounded by straight lines. In short, the Pythagorean theorem transfigured for jewelry. Rock crystal and moonstone are tied with threads of gold, and diamonds pavé. The second collection of designer, Fly Me to the Moon, is made with pink agate worked to chisel, evolved into soft shapes, curves, like the wings that turn into earrings. Then, it followed by additional lines of jewelry, such as the collection Tilsam, with crystal balls surrounded by diamonds or colored sapphires. The new line by Noor is called Krystallos. Again the geometry is the founding philosophy, with inverted pyramids that become pendants and earrings, gold and small diamonds to seal the perimeter of the jewels. Matilde de Bounvilles
The bracelets armed by Ai Weiwei
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Ai Weiwei is a Chinese artist best known. His statements and his cultural proposal are discussed, but it is indisputable the fame conquered in the West. Among his most famous installations are works made with 99 tons of steel, or 8 million sunflower seeds. Now the Chinese artist, surprisingly, has made a collection of jewelry. For the debut was chosen London, in the gallery of Elisabetta Cipriani: the British city is more receptive to the ideas of Ai Weiwei than Beijing. “I have always loved jewelry, history, the sense of the past,” explained the creative Chinese. The result are armors of gold in miniature, bracelets of different lengths. Armor in the sense of the iron rods which support the concrete pillars of buildings. The idea of the collection, in fact, refers to a tragic event: the earthquake in China in 2008 killed 90 thousand people under the rubble. Ai Weiwei has visited the disaster sites and it remained troubled. And he collected 200 tons of twisted steel bars. A form that has now decided to turn into jewelry, in memory of that event tragic. In any case, “I loved working with the 24-carat gold, because it is very malleable,” he told at New York Times. Federico Graglia
Al Thani jewelry on exhibition
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Hamad bin Khalifa al-Thani is not only one of the richest men in the world, besides being the caliph of Qatar. It is also a collector of art and, many people don’t knows, of jewelry. Of course, not any jewelry, but of rare and precious brooches that belonged to Indian maharajas, or refined period pieces signed by Cartier or other by Maison that are on Olympus of jewellery. The good news is that now this very special collection of jewelry will be shown to the public from 21 November until 28 March 2016 to the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The exhibition includes spectacular pieces: exotic Mughal jades, or a rare pinnacle gold from the throne of Tipu Sultan, pieces that reveal profound changes that have taken place in the Indian jewelry design during the early 20th century. But the exhibition will also consider the influence that India has had on the jewels of European avant-garde, for example, on Cartier to contemporary pieces made by Jar and Bhagat, who are inspired by a creative fusion of reasons including those of the era Mughal and Art Deco.
Victoria and Albert Museum
10:00 to 17:45 every day
from 10.00 to 22.00 Friday (gallery openings reduced after 18:00)
Closed on 24, 25 and 26 December
Tickets: £ 10
Tivon magic colors
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In June it celebrated 50 years: Tivon, a brand that takes its name from the founding family, is arrived at the second generation with the same philosophy that has distinguished the company from the beginning, that is, large stones for large jewelery. A combination that is not surprising for the South African origin of the founders. In the African country, that is the kingdom of gold and diamonds, the company maintains a branch. But the jewelry business is headed in London. If you like jewelry which features a large gem, intense colors, the jeweler Tivon is right for you. And that’s what must have thought even Monica Bellucci, who wore two large rings Tivon (purchased, not provided by the company) at the first of the new 007 movie, Spectre, in London. A smart choice, because the jewels of the Maison in London are designed to be showed, not to go unnoticed, even if their design is absolutely classic: no concession to modernity, to the minimalist design or line too flat. The rings have great colors. Alternatively, some collections use a cocktail of colored gems, with an effect “tutti i frutti” very lively. Matilde de Bounvilles
In London the Chanel Story
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The jewels of Coco Chanel are celebrated in an exhibition in London. It is titled Mademoiselle Privé and is open from 13 October to 1 November in the Saatchi Gallery. The exhibition celebrates the Maison Paris and tells the story of the famous perfume Chanel No. 5, but also the collections of fine jewelry, with series like the one that has just been reinterpreted with Chanel haute couture autumn-winter 2015-2016 (see https://gioiellis.com/chanel-sotto-il-segno-del-leone). The event does not fail to point out the contribution of the artistic director for more than 30 years, Karl Lagerfeld. But of course it start from the first collection of jewels signed by Mademoiselle Chanel in 1932. And then the strong themes that symbolize the brand identity. Like those between 1988 and 2007 were designed by Lorenz Bäumer. Cosimo Muzzano
Mademoiselle Privé
Daily 10:00 to 18:00 (Wednesday until 22:00)
Free entry
Saartchi Gallery
Duke of York’s HQKing’s RoadLondon SW3 4RY
The masterpieces of London
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Art on canvas, bronze and also gold and gems: the jewels were part of the sixth edition of Masterpiece London fair (but the definition of fair is too narrow). Available to fans there were works from different backgrounds, but all carefully selected, more by 150 galleries from around the world. Works on display, but also available for purchase. Including jewelry. The offer was the most varied. Alongside established brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels, there were the new generation of jewelry, as Suzanne Syz or Brazilian Jojo Grima. And opposed to precious antique jewelry were presented to visitors Londoners also jewelry made by a number of artists, mostly Italians, between the fifties and the seventies. A few names: Gio Pomodoro, African, Ettore Sottsass, Pietro Consagra, Annigoni and Umberto Mastroianni. Here are a large number of images and a selection of the best pieces, for those who could not attend the exhibition in London. Federico Graglia
Stephen Webster gold addicted
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Stephen Webster is undeniably struck by gold since he has been designing jewellery for nearly 40 years, but that is not the only reason why he has named Gold Struck his new collection. He has been impressed by the discovery itself of the Cheapside Hoard, the world’s largest collection of Elizabethan and Jacobean jewellery ever found. What struck the British designer is not so much the 500 pieces of exceptional value, but the fact they was unearthed in 1912 by the pickaxes of workmen demolishing an old jeweller’s premises on Cheapside in the City of London. Kind of like discovery of oil gushing from the ground, these jewels have jumped out of a treasure box. In Webster collection dominate amethyst, topaz, tanzanites, rubies, fire opals and sapphires, the same stones of the hidden treasure. But these are set in diamonds, triangles, rectangles, rounds, in short, multi-shaped and sized that orbit harmoniously around a hexagonal, faceted irregularly center stone as if just dug up. The color combinations for ear climbers, two-finger or opened rings, traditional pendants or bracelets, are like Webster’s edgy aesthetics, that is whimsical and robust: the red version with corals, fire opals, diamonds and orange sapphires, the purple one with amethysts, rubies and rhodolite, and the blue one with turquoises, amethysts, blue topaz and tanzanite. Matilde de Bounvilles
(Italiano) A Londra è verde l’oro d’avanguardia
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[wzslider]Il meglio del gioiello contemporaneo in mostra a Londra: è quanto promette il Hallmark Salon, con la sua selezione di 86 espositori, che oltre al talento, devono avere come caratteristica comune la produzione inglese. In pratica, qualsiasi pezzo, ciondolo, spilla, gemelli o vaso (ci sono anche gli argentieri) deve avere la punzonatura Uk. Eppure tra i diversi gioiellieri anche un’italiana, Barbara Bertagnolli, dallo stile molto caratteristico che fonde insieme influenze medievali, i segni della Secessione viennese e forme astratte contemporanee. Le origini del Belpaese hanno influenzato l’estro dell’australiana Mia Chicco, che ammorbidisce con un pavé di brillanti, pepite d’oro a 9 carati. Forte e grafica è Ute Decker, una delle prime orafe a lanciare una collezione realizzata in oro Fairtrade. Sostenibilità ed etica anche per Jon Dibben, che realizza anelli e collane con gemme dai colori insoliti e oro ecologico dalla miniera Oro Verde in Colombia, sostenuta dalle associazioni Fairtrade e Fairmined. Forme organiche e naturali danno una cromia stravagante e attraente agli anelli di Beth Gilmour, mentre Lilly Hastedt combina perle e vetri antichi per creare orecchini di un moderno romanticismo. Nel ciondolo spilla di spilla di Ingo Henn, la tanzanite blu sembra l’occhio di un uccello tropicale, grazie anche alla montatura con smalto colorato. La natura ispira anche Tomasz Donocik, che ha lavorato per gioielliere Stephen Webster, prima di lanciare una collezione con coccodrilli, aquile e altri animali a tratti bruscamente realistica. G.N.
Somerset House, West Wing Strand London WC2R 1LA 24-28 giugno 11.am-6.30 pm Biglietto: 6 sterlineIn London the cutting-edge gold goes green
The best of contemporary jewelery in London: is what promises Hallmark Salon, with its selection of 86 exhibitors. All talented, they have as a common feature of the English production. So, every piece, pendant, brooch, cufflinks or jar (there are also silversmiths) must has been hallmarked in the Uk. Yet among them also an Italian, Barbara Bertagnolli, who has a very distinctive style with influences from the Medieval period, the Vienna Seccession and contemporary abstract forms. The Italian heritage influenced creativity of the Australian Mia Chicco, which softens gold 9 carats studs with a diamonds pavé . Strong and looking utterly contemporary is Ute Decker, one of the first to launch a jewelery collection crafted in Fairtrade gold. Sustainability and ethic for Jon Dibben, which designs rings and necklaces with unusual coloured gems and gold coming from the Oro Verde ecological mine in Colombia, supported by Fairtrade and Fairmined associations. Organic and natural shapes give a whimsical and attractive tone Beth Gilmour’s rings, while Lilly Hastedt combines ancient glass beads and earrings to create a modern romance. In brooch pendant by Ingo Henn, tanzanite blue looks like the eye of a tropical bird, thanks to colored enamel. Nature also inspires Tomasz Donocik, who worked for jeweler Stephen Webster, before launching himself a collection with crocodiles, eagles and other animals at times sharply realistic.
A Londres, l’or de pointe est vert
Le meilleur du bijou contemporain à Londres: c’est ce que promet Hallmark Salon, avec sa sélection de 86 exposants. Tous talentueux, ils ont caractérisé de la production anglaise. Ainsi, chaque pièce, pendentif, broche, boutons de manchette ou un bocal (il ya aussi des orfèvres) doivent a été poinçonnés dans le Royaume-Uni. Pourtant, parmi eux aussi un italien, Barbara Bertagnolli, qui a un style très distinctif avec des influences de l’époque médiévale, la Vienne Sécession et formes abstraites contemporaines. Le patrimoine italien influencé la créativité de l’australienne Mia Chicco, qui adoucit 9 carats clou avec un pavé de diamants. Forte et contemporain est Ute Decker, l’un des premiers à lancer une collection de bijoux fabriqués en or du Fairtrade. Durabilité et éthique pour Jon Dibben, qui conçoit bagues et colliers avec pierres précieuses de couleur inhabituelles et or provenant de la mine écologique Oro Verde en Colombie, appuyée par Fairtrade et Fairmined associations. Les formes organiques et naturelles donnent une tonalité extravagant et attrayant les bagues de Beth Gilmour, tandis que Lilly Hastedt combine perles et verre antiques pour créer boucles d’oreilles en un romantisme moderne. Dans broche pendentif par Ingo Henn, bleu tanzanite ressemble à l’œil d’un oiseau tropical, grâce à l’émail de couleur. La nature inspire également Tomasz Donocik, qui a travaillé pour le bijoutier Stephen Webster, avant de se lancer une collection de crocodiles, des aigles et autres animaux parfois fortement réalistes.
In London geht innovative gold grün
Die besten der zeitgenössischen Schmuck in London: Was ist, verspricht Hallmark Salon Mit seiner Auswahl von 86 Ausstellern. Alle talentiert, haben sie als gemeinsames Merkmal der Produktion Inglese. Also, jedes Stück, Anhänger, Broschen, Manschettenknöpfe oder Glas (Auch gibt es Silberschmiede) Muss Has Been in Großbritannien geprägt. Unter ihnen auch noch ein Italiener, Barbara Bertagnolli, der ein sehr markanten Stil mit Einflüssen aus dem Mittelalter, der Wiener Secession und zeitgenössische abstrakte Formen hat. Die italienischen Erbe beeinflusst Kreativität der australischen Chicco Mia, Die erweicht 9 Karat Gold Ohrstecker mit einem Pavé-Diamanten. Stark und ist ganz und gar auf der Suche zeitgenössischen Ute Decker, einer der ersten, eine Schmuck-Kollektion in Fairtrade-Gold gefertigt starten. Nachhaltigkeit und Ethik für Jon Dibben, Designer Ringe und Halsketten mit ungewöhnlichen farbige Edelsteine und Gold, die aus dem ökologischen Oro Verde Mine in Kolumbien, von Fairtrade und Fairmined Verbänden unterstützt. Bio-und Naturformen geben einen wunderlichen und attraktive Beth Ton Gilmour Ringe, während Lilly Hastedt verbindet alte Glasperlen und Ohrringe, um eine moderne Romantik zu schaffen. In Brosche Anhänger von Ingo Henn, sieht Tansanitblau wie das Auge eines tropischen Vogels, dank farbiger Emaille. Natur inspiriert auch Tomasz Donocik, der Juwelier Stephen Webster für gearbeitet, vor dem Start eine Sammlung mit sich selbst Krokodile, Adler und andere Tiere in Zeiten stark realistisch.
В Лондоне, инновационный золото идет зеленый
Лучшие из современных ювелирных изделий в Лондоне: Что такое Hallmark Салон обещания, с диапазоном 86 экспонентов. Все талантливые, у них есть Inglese как общая черта производства. Таким образом, каждый кусок, кулоны, броши, запонки или стекло (также, есть серебряных) Должен был придуман в Великобритании. Среди них, также итальянский, Барбара Bertagnolli, кто имеет очень характерный стиль с влияниями от средневековья, сецессиона и современных абстрактных форм. Итальянский влияния наследия творчество австралийской Chicco Mia, размягченным 9-каратного золота серьги с бриллиантами проложить. Сильный и полностью ищете современный Ute Декер, одним из первых, чтобы начать коллекцию ювелирных изделий, достигнутый в Fairtrade золота. Устойчивость и этика для Jon Dibben, дизайнерские кольца и ожерелья с необычными цветные драгоценные камни и золото, которые при поддержке экологической Оро Верде шахте в Колумбии, справедливой торговли и Средне добывается ассоциаций. Органические и натуральные формы дать причудливые и привлекательные тона кольца Бет Гилмора, в то время как Лилли Hastedt сочетает древние стеклянные бусы и серьги для создания современной романтики. В брошь подвеска Инго Хенн, танзанит выглядит глаза тропического птицы, благодаря цветной эмалью. Природа вдохновляет Томаш Доночик, ювелир Стивен Вебстер работал, прежде чем начать коллекцию с собой крокодилов, орлов и других животных в периоды сильной реалистичным.
En Londres, el oro de vangiardia es verde
Lo mejor de la exposición de joyería contemporánea en Londres es lo que promete Hallmark Salón, con su selección de 86 expositores, además de talento, tiene que tener como característica común de la producción de Inglés. En la práctica, cualquier pieza, colgante, broche, gemelos o frasco (también hay plateros) deben tener la perforación Uk. Sin embargo, entre las diferentes joyeros también un italiano, Barbara Bertagnolli, de estilo muy característico que mezcla influencias medievales, los signos de las formas contemporáneas y abstractas Vienna Secession. Los orígenes de Italia influyó en la creatividad del Chicco australiana Mia, que suaviza con un pavé de diamantes, pepitas de oro para 9 quilates. Los gráficos son fuertes y Ute Decker, uno de los primeros en lanzar una colección de joyería en oro de Comercio Justo. La sostenibilidad y la ética para Jon Dibben, lo que hace que los anillos y collares con gemas de colores inusuales y el oro de la mina ecológica Oro Verde en Colombia, con el apoyo de las asociaciones y de Comercio Justo Fairmined. Las formas orgánicas y los colores naturales dan unas caprichosas y atractivas anillos Bet Gilmour, mientras que Lilly Hastedt combina antiguas cuentas de cristal y los pendientes para crear un romance moderno. En broche colgante broche de Ingo Henn, azul tanzanita se ve como el ojo de un pájaro tropical, gracias a la estructura con el esmalte de color. La naturaleza también inspira Tomasz Donocik, que trabajaba para el joyero Stephen Webster, antes de lanzar una colección de cocodrilos, águilas y otros animales en los momentos marcadamente realista