Histoire d'Or

In France a giant of the jewerly was born

In France, a giant of jewelery was born (yet it is little known): Marcel Masson Robbez acquires Christian Bernard ♦
Every now and then a news coming from the world of economics closely affects the world of jewels. The news is this: Marcel Masson Robbez becomes the first French manufacturer of high-end jewelery. He bought Christian Bernard from Evry’s Court of Commerce. The new group will have a turnover of around 100 million euros. Marcel Masson Robbez is headquartered in Lozère, Occitania (South East France) and Christian Bernard (based in Paris) are the country’s leading jewelry makers, retailers and wholesalers. Christian Bernard was in trouble after sales fell from 150 to 50 million euros. In return, Marcel Masson Robbez has a fully automated production system, which allows you to send up to 1,500 jewelery boxes per day.
The transaction was supported by the Consolidation Fund and Company Development, which in June will become a minority shareholder in Marcel Robbez Masson, with a contribution of 15 million in equity, such as Part of a funding round of 40 million. Of the banks, there were another 25 million. “The trend in jewelery is concentration. We are currently studying other acquisition goals,” predicted Frank Robbez-Masson, company ceo.
The acquired group has 200 employees in France. Abroad, Marcel Robbez Masson, who had manufacturing sites in Morocco and Portugal, employs one thousands of workers in Vietnam. Marcel Masson Robbez has 3,000 customers in France, including watchmakers, jewelers and goldsmiths in the premium jewelery segment. It also has a network of 25 franchise boutiques and will open an office in Hong Kong by the year. Federico Graglia




Anello in oro rosa, diamanti e madreperla
Anello in oro rosa, diamanti e madreperla

Orecchini elettroformati in oro, collezione Masviel di Marcel Masson Robbez
Orecchini elettroformati in oro, collezione Masviel di Marcel Masson Robbez
Anelli in ceramica, oro 18 carati e diamanti, collezione Masviel
Anelli in ceramica, oro 18 carati e diamanti, collezione Masviel
Marcel Masson Robbez, colleziione Lady O, oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti
Marcel Masson Robbez, colleziione Lady O, oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti

Gioielli indossati di Marcel Masson Robbez
Gioielli indossati di Marcel Masson Robbez







Thom is gold medal in Europe

With the shopping in Germany, Thom Europe become the first European group of the jewelry.
It may be that the jewelry industry is less bright than once and that some brands are not healthy (as, in Italy, was the case of Chimento). But there is also a jewelry company that get wonderfully. It is the story of Thom Europe: the group announced that it climbed to the top step of the podium in the Old Continent, thanks to the acquisition previously announced Stroili and, now, a chain of jewelers in Germany. About Stroili we said (here): it is the first chain of distribution of jewelery products and watches in Italy, with more than 370 shops and a turnover of 213 million Euros. Stroili was owned by private equity funds and investment companies: Investindustrial and L. Catterton (ex-The Capital), which includes 21 investment, Ergon Capital, Wise and Neuberger Berman.
It was less well known, however, that Thom Europe was gaining in parallel the German chain jewelry Oro Vivo. Oro Vivo generated a turnover of 18 million Euros in 2015, with 38 stores to its credit.
Hollande between Thom parents
Thom Europe, becomes, in short, the first large group of jewelry easy to wear. The French group is owned by private equity funds and, in part, to the management. The largest shareholder is Bridgepoint, which runs something like 12.9 billion Euros and companies that employ a total of 90,000 employees (among other things the perfumeries Limoni, in Italy). Thom Europe sees as shareholders also funds Apax Partners and its operating arm on the stock exchange, Altamir, as well as Qualium Investissement, which is a subsidiary of the Caisse des Dépôts, c’est to say the French State, at the time represented by Monsieur le président François Hollande. In a nutshell, the jewelry is a treasure that like a lot, except maybe to Italians investors, as evidenced by the case of Clessidra, which after the sudden death of its founder, Claudio Sposito, has seen fit to sell Buccellati, defeating the draft constitution of first pole of Italian luxury.
A consolidated expansion
But back to Thom. The new operations, the statement said the company, will allow Thom Europe to become the convergence of three major platform of affordable jewelery accessible markets in Europe, which is still fragmented. The enlarged group, whose turnover pro forma will exceed 620 million Euros, will count about one thousand outlets and e-commerce sites in France, Italy, Germany and Belgium, and will have more than 5,000 employees, employed by six brands and signs that enjoy a great reputation nationally (Histoire d’Or, Marc Orian, Tresor, Stroili Gold, Franco Jewels and Gold Vivo). The group thus will benefit from important synergies related to the new dimension, particularly in the context of supplies (purchasing and logistics) and in the field of realization of e-commerce platform.
Some opening quote
Some official comments: “I am particularly proud of the team, which, led by Romain Peninque, involving the group in key strategic developments that allow him today to occupy the first place in Europe and offer the particularly attractive growth prospects in the years ahead , “he annotated Eric Belmonte, president Thom Europe.
“After the consolidation of the French market, the group has become the natural actor to consolidate the European market,” added Romain Peninque, general manager of Thom Europe. “Italy and Germany, along with France, are the most important markets in Europe in the field of jewelry at affordable prices. It is therefore with great enthusiasm that we welcome Stroili and Oro Vivo Thom Europe within the group, and we are pleased to thus become the market leader in Europe. ”
“The Stroili team is pleased to be part of the group Thom Europe to create the European leader of the jewelry at affordable prices. Stroili enjoys a presence and compelling brand presence on the Italian market. From now on you can count, to accelerate its growth, the savoir-faire and the innovative tools of Thom Europe team, in particular in relation to the development of its offer e-commerce, “noted Maurizio Merenda, general manager of Stroili.

Un negozio della catena Oro Vivo
Un negozio della catena Oro Vivo
Il flagship store Stroili di Milano
Il flagship store Stroili di Milano
Eric Belmonte e Romain Peninque
Eric Belmonte e Romain Peninque
L'amministratore delegato di Stroili, Maurizio Merenda, assieme ad Andres Caballero
Il direttore generale di Stroili, Maurizio Merenda, assieme ad Andres Caballero

Marina B. is for sale

Marina B., the brand founded by the daughter of Sotirio Bulgari, could be sold at Henri Barguirdjian, former Graff.
Marina B. is on sale? The news spreads from the US. In talks to buy the Italian brand would Henri Barguirdjian, who stepped down after 16 years as Ceo of Graff North America. Barguirdjian has extensive experience: in addition to Graff, in the past he also worked for Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels. If the rumor is confirmed, it would be another sale of an Italian brand. This year has already seen the passing of Stroili under the French banner of Histoire d’Or. Previously were com brand Pomellato and Bulgari to emigrate. To be precise, however, Marina B. has an Italian design, but no longer the property. La Maison, founded in 1978 by Marina Bulgari, daughter of Sotirio Bulgari, was sold out in 1996. Then it was sold again and re-launched in 2011: the brand, however, has recently seen the arrival of Giorgio Bulgari, grandson Marina, as creative director of the fashion house. He was send by Paul Lubetsky, the brand owner and also Ceo of Windsor Jewelers, one of the leading groups in the sector in the US. Now the company could change owner again. Federico Graglia

Collana Kashan in oro diamanti, topazi,  ametista, citrini, citrini madeira, rubellite, tormalina verde
Collana Kashan in oro diamanti, topazi, ametista, citrini, citrini madeira, rubellite, tormalina verde
Anello Claw, oro, diamanti, zaffiri blu e rosa
Anello Claw, oro, diamanti, zaffiri blu e rosa
Orecchini Shrine,  oro, diamanti, tormalina rosa, ametista, zaffiri blu, acquamarina, peridoto e citrino
Orecchini Shrine, oro, diamanti, tormalina rosa, ametista, zaffiri blu, acquamarina, peridoto e citrino
Bracciale Oursin in oro rosa, diamanti, pietra luna
Bracciale Oursin in oro rosa, diamanti, pietra luna
Orecchini Pampille in oro e diamanti
Orecchini Pampille in oro e diamanti
Orecchini Martin Pescatore in oro, diamanti, zaffiri blu e gialli, rubini
Orecchini Martin Pescatore in oro, diamanti, zaffiri blu e gialli, rubini
Henri Barguirdjian (a destra)
Henri Barguirdjian (a destra)
Collana La Mer, in oro, smeraldi e zaffiri
Collana La Mer, in oro, smeraldi e zaffiri

Stroili sold to Histoire d’Or

After Bulgari, after Pomellato, after Buccellati, another Italian brand that takes the train to abroad, or better, for France: Stroili is sold to Thom Europe, holding company of Histoire d’Or (Thom Europe), already present in Italy with three points sale. This is the most widespread of French jewelry chain, and it’s corresponding to Stroili dimension in Italy. Accesible Luxury, the italian company that controls Stroili, is owned by Andrea Bonomi’s Investindustrial fund and others private equity fund as 21Investimenti, Wise and NB Renaissance, along with L Catterton (LVMH group) and other minority shareholders. They have reached an agreement for the sale of the entire capital. Stroili is among the top five retail chains of jewelry and watches in Europe for revenues, and employs over 572 outlets. We do not know the figure agreed for the operation. At the moment Maurizio Merenda, current Ceo of Stroili, will retain a charge even in the new structure. The transaction will be financed entirely with equity and debt.
The official statement of the company speaks of an operation that “will support expansion ambitions in Europe of Stroili”, with synergies which will lead the new company to become the first international platform of jewelry at affordable prices. In the 12 months ended March 31, 2016, Stroili generated in-store sales of 216 million euro and an Ebitda of 35 million pro forma. Thom Europe, which is in turn controlled by a series of private equity funds (Bridgepoint, Apax Partners, Altamir, Management and Qualium Investissement), created in the 12 months ended March 31, 2016, in-store sales to 387 million euro and a pro forma adjusted Ebitda of 78 million. Federico Graglia

Il flagship store Stroili di Milano
Il flagship store Stroili di Milano
Il flagship store Stroili di Milano
Il flagship store Stroili di Milano
Francesca Chillemi e Maurizio Merenda
Francesca Chillemi e Maurizio Merenda
Punto vendita di Histoire d'Or
Punto vendita di Histoire d’Or