The Enamel Watch line is inspired by the work of legendary designer Jean Schlumberger.
New jewelry watches from Tiffany & Co. The new line is called Enamel Watch and draws inspiration from the creative legacy of Jean Schlumberger, the American fashion house’s historic designer, who created a jewelry collection of the same name in 1962. The new watch collection is available in three variations. The diamond-paved dial is framed by a rotating ring in Tiffany Blue paillonné enamel or white enamel, embellished with the collection’s iconic cross-stitch motif in 18-karat yellow gold. Produced in limited quantities, the watch is housed in a 36 mm case in 18-karat white or yellow gold.
Tiffany & Co.’s tradition of enamel art dates back to the 1870s, when it presented its first in-house creations (a dessert service) at the 1878 Paris Exposition Universelle. Over time, Tiffany employed various enameling techniques, such as cloisonné, flinqué, and grisaille, applying them to objects such as vases, brooches, and watches. In 1962, Jean Schlumberger revived this technique in fine jewelry, creating the paillonné enamel version, which requires exceptional skill and artistic sensitivity.
The technique originated in the 19th century but nearly disappeared in the mid-20th century. Even today, decades after its revival thanks to Schlumberger’s creations, very few artisans fully understand this meticulous and highly complex process. The process begins with cutting finely shaped fragments from thin 18-karat gold or silver leaves, which are then applied to the surface to be decorated. This is followed by the application of a layer of colored translucent enamel and subsequent firing at a high temperature. This three-step process is repeated several times to achieve the desired color intensity. Among Schlumberger’s most famous paillonné enamel designs are the Croisillon bracelets, created in 1962.
The distinctive Croisillon motif, featuring 18-karat yellow gold cross stitches alternating with pairs of linear stitches, draws inspiration from the designer’s origins, a descendant of a family of textile industrialists from Alsace, France. Delicate yet powerful, the X symbol represents the enduring bonds woven throughout our lives.
The dial of the Enamel Watch is constructed on two levels: a fixed central disc paved with diamonds and a rotating outer ring, which reinterprets the Croisillon bracelet in miniature. The 12 cross-stitches represent the 12 hours. Unlike traditional indexes, they are not fixed, but rotate freely with every movement of the wrist, creating a refined visual interplay that reflects Schlumberger’s playful and sophisticated approach to design. Contrasting with the diamonds, the 18-karat yellow gold hands echo the hue of the cross-stitches.
The creation of the rotating ring is a complex and highly specialized process that requires a total of 65 hours of work: 55 for the enameling and 10 for the creation and assembly of the gold dots. For each Tiffany Blue ring, the three-step paillonné enameling process (application of gold or silver leaf, enameling, and firing) is repeated up to three times to achieve the desired depth and richness of color, with an extraordinary intensity of luminosity. The case and the central dial disc are embellished with snow-set brilliant-cut diamonds of varying sizes, creating a nearly continuous surface of light and reflections, with visible metal reduced to a minimum. The center of the dial is adorned with 204 diamonds, while the 36 mm case is set with 366, for a total of approximately 3 carats.
The caseback is engraved with a sunburst motif inspired by Jean Schlumberger’s Floral Arrows brooch and is embellished with 14 diamonds. A pusher integrated into the design allows the time to be adjusted, as displayed by the high-precision Swiss quartz movement. The alligator strap is coordinated with white or Tiffany Blue enamel. It fastens with a yellow or white gold T-buckle, set with 43 brilliant-cut diamonds. A High Jewelry version, with an 18-karat white gold case and Tiffany Blue enamel, is offered with a fully pavé 18-karat white gold bracelet, embellished with an additional 666 diamonds for a total of 4.48 carats.
