Many in Milan still remember Muriel Grateau: she was a designer alongside the entrepreneur Diego Della Valle (Tod’s), but then in 1992 she returned to Paris. She designs objects, furnishings, accessories, but also imposing jewels with a bold personality. She goes so far as to hide the most precious materials, such as gold under black enamel.
«I create high jewelry that does not have the flashy characteristics. My pieces are not for social status, “comments the designer. Her jewels are truly amazing, with golden lace spiders, black diamonds, pop-style brooches, light and slightly acidic enamels together with sapphires. The result is a line of high personality, refined elegance, exasperated research. The wearer takes on a part of originality. But she remained entirely a designer and in her gallery at 37 rue de Beaune she also exhibits her collections of dishes and accessories as well as jewelry.
Ever since he started, Muriel Grateau has followed his path in the creative world. He designed unique clothes, noticed by Hélène Lazareff, founder of Elle magazine. He then worked alongside the legendary designer Peggy Roche. In the mid-sixties he took part in the creation of Promostyl, the first trendy agency. And for Basile and Mario Valentino he designed collections for every season. It had an avalanche production: Muriel Grateau approached 1,500 models per season during the 1980s.
The first jewelry collection dates back to 2005. Each piece may take up to three months to make. “I immediately understood that freedom in jewelry consists in going beyond borders”. So do not think twice before combining poor materials, precious stones and high technology, using, for example, laser cutting. For Muriel Grateau, if his jewels are impressive “it is only for their volume and not because they must be ostentatious”. Matilde de Bounvilles
