intarsio

Inlays, gems, contrasts: Retrouvaí’s vintage inspirations

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A stone within another stone: the technique of inlaying with different materials is ancient and is the one adopted for many jewels by Kirsty Stone (a name, a destiny), Canadian designer of the Retrouvaí brand, based in Los Angeles. The designer moved to the United States shortly after graduation and co-founded an architectural firm with a friend, before choosing the jewelry. Perhaps also for this imprinting the geometries of the jewels are so precise. The name of the brand needs an explanation: it is a word inspired by the pronunciation of Retrovailles, a French term that indicates something that reconnects to the past. In this case the inlay technique.

Orecchini con granati incastonati in opale rosa
Orecchini con granati incastonati in opale rosa

But not only that: the designer has a penchant for vintage objects and her jewels, even if they have a modern shape, often allude to something that is distant in time, such as chevalier-style rings or pendants that look like cameos. For example, compass rings seem to indicate nostalgia for places elsewhere. Retrouvaí jewelry is often made with unusual stones. Like rhodochrosite, lapis lazuli and turquoise welcome different types of gems, such as morganite, and create a pleasant contrast. Often with a contrast between a matte and a transparent surface.

Pendente con tormalina e morganite su corniola
Pendente con tormalina e morganite su corniola
Anello con turchesi e zaffiro viola
Anello con turchesi e zaffiro viola
Anello Lollipop con rubino e opale rosa
Anello Lollipop con rubino e opale rosa
Anello in oro con zaffiro viola
Anello in oro con zaffiro viola
Pendente con onice e smeraldo
Pendente con onice e smeraldo

Pendente Puzzle con tormalina, smeraldo, rubino, turchese, zaffiro e corallo
Pendente Puzzle con tormalina, smeraldo, rubino, turchese, zaffiro e corallo







Silvia Furmanovich’s new marquetred jewels

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Earrings, bracelets, but also clutches: the new unique jewels by Brazilian designer Silvia Furmanovich ♦ ︎

The ancient art of marquetry , which in the world is also called marqueterie, from the French word marqueter, color marking, continues to be the superfine technique that distinguishes the jewels of Silvia Furmanovich. Daughter of a famous goldsmith, the Brazilian designer founded her jewelry house in 1997. And immediately she was at the center of interest, precisely because her inlaid jewels are incredibly fascinating.

Read also: Botany lessons with Silvia Furmanovich

Orecchini in oro 18 carati, legno lavorato, diamanti
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, legno lavorato, diamanti

The inlays in the robust and rare woods of Brazil, the attention to detail, combined with gold and semi-precious stones, the subjects linked to the world of nature: all this made Silvia Furmanovich a star. Recently his jewels representing birds, flowers and leaves immediately sold out on Moda Operandi, although the prices are proportionate to the long work required by the expert Brazilian artisans to make them: for a pair of earrings they range from about $ 5,000 to almost 20,000. Furthermore, they are unique pieces or produced in a few copies. To be admired as small works of art.

Orecchini in oro e legno lavorato, prasiolite e diamanti brown
Orecchini in oro e legno lavorato, prasiolite e diamanti brown
Anello in oro, legno, diamanti, rubini, diamanti brown
Anello in oro, legno, diamanti, rubini, diamanti brown
Silvia Furmanovich, bracciale intarsiato
Silvia Furmanovich, bracciale intarsiato
Bracciale in legno intarsiato
Bracciale in legno intarsiato
Orecchini con perle e intarsio in oro
Orecchini con perle e intarsio in oro
Orecchini  in legno, oro rosa, tormalina rosa
Orecchini in legno, oro rosa, tormalina rosa

Pochette con intarsio a forma di farfalla
Pochette con intarsio a forma di farfalla







Botanica’s lessons with Silvia Furmanovich

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The Botanicals collection by Silvia Furmanovich: a refined inlay technique enriched with gold and gems ♦ ︎

Silvia Furmanovich, a Brazilian designer of Italian descent (her father was a goldsmith), is a special case. It is, in fact, one of the rare creators of jewels that can boast a style completely different from the others. And not less precious. His jewels are different both as conception, form and design, and because they use refined techniques, such as cabinet making, which were more common in Europe in past centuries.

The new collection by Silvia Furmanovich is called Botanicals.

Orecchini con ametiste e tormaline
Orecchini con ametiste e tormaline

Easy to guess what is inspired by, the lush, colorful, surprising plants that grow in the boundless South American country: calla lilies, orchids, heliconias, begonia leaves, banana flowers, water lilies, chrysanthemums, and even a fungus.

To create earrings that look like leaves just detached from the plant, the designer has chosen a processing with wood inlay techniques applied to three-dimensional sculptural surfaces.

Bracciale della collezione Botanicals
Bracciale della collezione Botanicals

In other words, it seems easy, but in reality it is a courageous and refined choice. The inlay technique is made by craftsmen of the Brazilian Amazon rain forest using all types of indigenous woods. But the jewels are not just wood: gold and, above all, stones such as tourmalines, amethysts, citrines, prasiolites, quartz, opals, emeralds and topazes are like colored drops of dew on the surface of the flora. Prices: on average from 5000 to 15000 dollars. Giulia Netrese





Clutch della collezione Botanicals
Clutch della collezione Botanicals

Orecchini di Silvia Furmanovich
Orecchini di Silvia Furmanovich
Orecchini con tormaline verdi
Orecchini con tormaline verdi
Orecchini in legno intarsiato e pietre di colore
Orecchini in legno intarsiato e pietre di colore
Orecchini in legno intarsiato con oro e diamanti
Orecchini in legno intarsiato con oro e diamanti
Orecchini con prasioliti
Orecchini con prasioliti

Orecchini a forma di foglie della collezione Botanicals
Orecchini a forma di foglie della collezione Botanicals