gemmologia

How important is the clarity of a diamond?

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How important is clarity in the evaluation of a diamond? Here’s how to find out what is the degree of clarity ♦ ︎

We make clarity on the diamonds. And it is not a expression: clarity is one of the famous four C  that define the quality of a diamond together with the weight (carat), the color and cut. In short, it is an aspect to pay close attention when buying a stone or a jewel with a diamond. Clarity could compromise the value of the stone, even if the other three parameters mentioned are excellent. Fortunately, when you buy a diamond jewel you can also ask for a certificate listing the classification of the stone.
Here, then, what to look for to know what is the degree of clarity of your diamond and what the abbreviations that appear on the certificate mean.

La scala della chiarezza secondo il Gia
La scala della chiarezza secondo il Gia

The scale of clarity

The clarity of a diamond is about its degree of transparency. If the stone has no impurities inside it will get the highest mark. If within the stone appear small or large inclusions, ie impurities imprisoned in the mineral, will have a lower grade. The scale starts from Flawless (FL), the stone without defects, and goes up to Included 3 (I3) ie with serious impurities inside. This scale of value is the one adopted by the authoritative Gia, Gemological Institute of America, the best known mineralogy research and learning center in the United States of America, founded in 1931 by Robert Shipley in California.

Il diamante taglio smeraldo, da 163,41 carati, D flawless e di tipo IIA di de Grisogono
Il diamante taglio smeraldo, da 163,41 carati, D flawless e di tipo IIA di de Grisogono

How important is clarity?

Is very important. First of all because better clarity translates into perfect reflections of light and, therefore, into a brighter diamond. In addition, impurities, if very accentuated, could over time compromise the structure of the diamond itself. Given this, we must add that a diamond completely free of inclusions is very, very rare. Usually imperfections are not visible to the naked eye, but you have to enlarge the stone at least ten times (the standard used by jewelers) to see inclusions.

Laurence Graff con il più grande diamante taglio brillante (102 carati) internally flawless
Laurence Graff con il più grande diamante taglio brillante (102 carati) internally flawless

What do the degrees of clarity mean?

Inclusions can hardly be identified with the naked eye, except in very large stones with pronounced defects. At this point the choice is a matter of taste: a stone with low clarity, that is with inclusions, can have a considerably lower price than a super-transparent diamond: in short, you can choose a slightly larger stone for the same price as a small, but with maximum clarity. Hardly anyone will notice it, except at the time of a sale. A good compromise could be to choose a middle ground, that is a diamond with Vs1 or Vs2 classification. If, on the other hand, you really want to go on the safe side and aim to buy a diamond jewel also as a form of investment (long term), focus on a stone classified by FL to VVS1. Experts advise against, however, diamonds with SI3 purity as they are probably stones equivalent to grade I1 or I2, in which the inclusions are too obvious: they are low quality diamonds.

Anello in oro con diamanti con inclusioni
Anello in oro con diamanti con inclusioni

Flawless and Internally Flawless

In the description of a diamond you might come across the Flawless and Internally Flawless definitions. What do they mean? Flawless means that the diamond is without visible inclusions or imperfections with a magnification of ten times, Internally Flawless only that no inclusion is visible.

collana Art Deco con ciondolo composto da un diamante eccezionale (colore D, Internally Flawless) di 16,24 carati, all'asta da Christie's
Collana Art Deco con ciondolo composto da un diamante eccezionale (colore D, Internally Flawless) di 16,24 carati, all’asta da Christie’s

What about inclusions?

They are elements of different kinds. They can be tiny crystals, needles, imperfections with the shape of feathers, clouds, points, teeth). Just one of these almost invisible inclusions is enough to let the diamond descend into the clarity scale. In general, for example, a diamond classified as VVS1 has at least one point inclusion, if it is VVS2 or at least two. Of course, not all inclusions have the same effect on the diamond. Transparent inclusions are preferable to white inclusions, which in turn are less harmful than dark inclusions. The worst are the dark and central inclusions in the SI1 grades. One of the most common inclusions is described as a cloud. In reality small clouds composed of different points generally have no effect on the appearance of the diamond. The so-called feathers, however, is a micro-crack that touches, but does not compromise the surface of the diamond. A small crack has no impact, while a larger one can be dangerous over the long term, to the point of compromising the solidity of the stone. These are the most common defects, but in reality there are many others, such as graininess.

Diamante fancy con piccole inclusioni
Diamante fancy con piccole inclusioni

How to choose?

A gemological certificate is the first aspect to consider. Also, consider if the diamond jewelry could be sold sooner or later, or stay with the family. Finally, the most important aspect: look carefully at the diamond. Look at it from a distance of 30-40 centimeters, holding it with tweezers or, if mounted on a ring, grasp the circle. Focus and observe it well against the light, towards a light source. What do you see? The choice is up to you.




Diamante con piccole inclusioni
Diamante con piccole inclusioni
Diamante taglio a cuore di 15,87 carati
Diamante taglio a cuore di 15,87 carati, colore D, senza inclusioni
Anello di platino con diamante da 9,13 carati. Colore D, privo di inclusioni
Anello di platino con diamante da 9,13 carati. Colore D, privo di inclusioni
orecchini
Orecchini con diamanti a taglio circolare colore D, privi di inclusioni, di 22,60 e 22,31 carati, venduti per 8,565 milioni dollari
Anello con diamante rosa taglio a pera Fancy Intense da 13,20 carati, Internally Flawless. Stima: 9-14 milioni di dollari  
Anello con diamante rosa taglio a pera Fancy Intense da 13,20 carati, Internally Flawless
Diamante da 100.20 carati, D color, Internally Flawless, type IIa. Stima: 18 - 23 milioni di euro, venduto a 20, 6 milioni di euro
Diamante da 100.20 carati, D color, Internally Flawless, type IIa. Stima: 18 – 23 milioni di euro, venduto a 20, 6 milioni di euro







Also nine Italian gemologists with Feeg diploma





Simona Aiello, Filomena Barbato, Maria Vittoria Berutti, Giacomo Cancro Mitia, Lavinia Casentini, Filippo Invernizzi, Daniele Manasse, Gabriele Mazzilli, Lorenzo Scandolo: these are the nine Italian gemologists from IGI, the Italian Gemological Institute, graduated from the Feeg, Federation for European Education in Gemmology, together with 69 others. Gemologists received the certificate in Schoonhoven, the Netherlands, on the occasion of the Federation Symposium, born in 1995, of which Igi is one of the founding members.

I delegati della Federation for European Education in Gemmology (Feeg) con il presidente della Commissione Corallo Cibjo, Enzo Liverino
I delegati della Federation for European Education in Gemmology (Feeg) con il presidente della Commissione Corallo Cibjo, Enzo Liverino

The federation brings together the most important European realities in gemological training: schools that have at least a ten-year history with nationally and internationally recognized diplomas.

The Italian Gemological Institute is the only Italian institute whose diploma is recognized for admission to the exams for the achievement of the European Gemmologist Eg diploma. The gemologist Igi can take the theoretical and practical exam in our institutional office in Milan, with the presence of an external commissioner from other European schools.
Ilaria Adamo, professor of the Institute and current vice-president of Feeg

Alcuni dei diplomati Feeg con Ilaria Adamo, docente Igi e vicepresidente Feeg, e Loredana Prosperi, direttore di Igi
Alcuni dei diplomati Feeg con Ilaria Adamo, docente Igi e vicepresidente Feeg, e Loredana Prosperi, direttore di Igi

We speak of a title of merit that serves to enrich the student’s cultural background and his / her curriculum and is the right opportunity to measure their knowledge with an international unifying body that gathers the largest gemstone training realities in Europe. It is an important step to crown one’s course of study, to confront foreign colleagues who study gemology and to attend conferences in the sector held by speakers of international standing.
Loredana Prosperi, director of the IGI

Diamante rosa sotto la lente del gemmologo
Diamante rosa sotto la lente di un gemmologo







The Sherlock Holmes of diamonds

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True or synthetic diamonds? Hrd Antwerp’s detective machines are coming ♦

As we have written several times, among buyers, but also among jewelers, uncertainty increases. The doubt concerns the certification of diamonds, since more and more often artificial stones are so similar to natural ones that the distinction has become increasingly difficult, even for experts. For this reason the game that is played between those who sell jewelry with authentic diamonds and who, instead, uses those created in the laboratory, becomes more tight. Obviously the game is not played when diamonds are declared as artificials from the beginning.

The problem, instead, is to get the guarantee that the ring with solitaire purchased is really, 100%, made with a stone “daughter of nature”.

Diamante taglio a pera
Diamante taglio a pera

It is not only an economic issue, since the value of a natural diamond is greater, but also one aspect sentimental: the idea that a stone was created by the compression of continents moving millions of years ago remains attractive to many people.

Now Hrd Antwerp, one of the most reliable gemological certification companies, has developed and commercialized two new diamond analysis tools.

Strumenti per lo screening dei diamanti
Strumenti per lo screening dei diamanti

Objective: to offer consumers a guarantee of quality. Two devices that are a sort of Sherlock Holmes of gemologist, M-Screen + and D-Tect, therefore allow the detection of synthetic diamonds and offer, explains the company, a solution to the most important challenge for the diamond industry. The plus of these devices is, among other things, the speed and precision with which they operate, thanks to technologies based on UV light spectroscopy and photoluminescence.
It should be added that so far the devices designed to find synthetic diamonds, which in large batches sometimes hide in the middle of hundreds of real pieces, were only intended for large laboratories. Hrd Antwerp, instead, thinks that the proposed solutions can be adopted on a large scale, that is, by jewelers. With a guarantee of authenticity that can be appreciated by those who buy a jewel.





M-Screen di Hrd Antwerp
M-Screen di Hrd Antwerp

Anello art déco con diamanti
Anello art déco con diamanti

Anello semi flessibile in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti taglio brillante
Anello semi flessibile in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti taglio brillante

Anello in oro bianco 18 kt e rodio vermeil, con una perla d'acqua dolce color avorio, incastonata con una serie di diamanti bianchi creati in laboratorio
Anabela Chan, anello in oro bianco 18 kt e rodio vermeil, con una perla d’acqua dolce color avorio, incastonata con una serie di diamanti bianchi creati in laboratorio

diamonique ledaotto anello
Anello con diamanti sintetici, argento, placcato rodio