diamante laboratorio

Be careful of the prices of laboratory diamonds

Why are the sales of artificial diamond jewelery created in the laboratory increasing? Those who love diamonds must take into account a trend that is becoming more and more popular: that of gems produced artificially, in laboratories. Research firm Brainy Insights recently estimated that the  $10.8 billion lab-grown diamond market will reach $20.6 billion by 2032. Lab-grown diamonds are increasingly seen as a more attractive option. affordable compared to jewelry made with naturally mined diamonds. And more and more brands, from Pandora to De Beers, offer jewelery with laboratory-grown diamonds, now available in a wide range of sizes and shapes. And at an affordable price. So lab-grown diamond manufacturers are working with several jewelry companies and designers, particularly in Europe, to produce distinctive, fashionable and exclusive jewelry.

Bracciale tennis in oro bianco e diamanti di laboratorio
Tennis bracelet in white gold and laboratory diamonds by V Rai

Also according to the Bloomberg news agency, artificial stones, created in laboratories, are a growing market. Simply put, most artificial diamonds are made by two different methods: with carbon treated in a special microwave and strong overheating, which turns into a plasma ball, or strong compression is used. They are methods that simulate the natural process by which, over millions of years, diamonds were formed in the depths of the Earth. These processes (the two systems are called HPHT or CVD), however, require special machines (don’t try with your home microwave) to crystallize the carbon and transform it into gems also used (but not only) for jewellery. For this reason, in any case, defining laboratory diamonds as green is a stretch: the process of creating synthetic gems is still very energy-intensive. The largest producers of synthetic diamonds are located in India, China and the United States.

Synthesis diamond con taglio a pera
Synthesis diamond with pear cut, stone created in the laboratory

How do you recognize them?
Artificial diamonds are difficult to distinguish from natural ones. Only experts, with special machines and in laboratories with sophisticated equipment, can perceive the different characteristics, processing and cutting. Indeed, some synthetic diamonds have properties such as hardness, thermal conductivity and electron mobility that are superior to those of most natural diamonds. Impurities are generally avoided, but can be intentionally introduced to change some properties of the diamond. In short, distinguishing them is really difficult and, for a simple jeweler, almost impossible. This is also why natural diamonds are accompanied by a certificate that guarantees their authenticity.
Synthetic diamonds are usually very small, weighing less than 1 carat, although larger laboratory gems are starting to appear on the market. They are not just white, colorless. There are also fancy ones, in particular yellow and blue. The yellow comes from nitrogen impurities in the manufacturing process, while the blue comes from boron. Other colors, such as pink or green, are obtained using radioactive rain (but without danger to health, hopefully).

Anello in oro con diamanti di laboratorio della collezione Solstice
Gold ring with laboratory diamonds from the Solstice collection by Brilliant Earth

Do they cost more or less?
Synthetic diamonds are sold on average for 15-30% less than their natural equivalents. However, it also depends on their quality: even artificial diamonds are not all the same. According to the producers, the price should decrease further as production improves. Is it worth choosing them? But, be careful: Rapaport Group, which is a party to the dispute since it deals with information on the diamond trade, has raised an alarm with the aim of warning consumers about the retail prices of laboratory-grown diamonds, considered too high . According to Rapaport, some lab stones were purchased in bulk at prices up to 99% below list price for natural diamonds. But many retailers have not applied the same discount to consumers.

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti lab grown per 0,98 carati
White gold ring with lab grown diamonds totaling 0.98 carats

The largest artificial diamond is from India

The technology applied to the diamond industry has produced the largest artificially created gem. This was announced by the Gemological Institute of America, which has cataloged a laboratory-grown diamond of record weight. The gem was produced in a chemical vapor deposition (CVD) process by Ethereal Green Diamond, a company based in Mumbai, India. The man-made diamond presented at the GIA laboratory in Hong Kong weighs 34.59 carats and has an emerald cut. It is the largest lab-grown diamond GIA has ever examined, according to Wuyi Wang, GIA’s vice president of research and development. Alongside the interest in the unusual dimensions of the stone, however, the quality must also be considered.

Un impianto di produzione di diamanti sintetici
A synthetic diamond production plant

The diamond has been graded G color (the best class is D) and VS2 clarity. In the gem there are small inclusions of black graphite inside and others that testify to the growth layers of the diamond. This type of diamond, in fact, is created with an accumulation of special steam inside special machines. Fluorescence examination revealed growth streaks typically seen in diamonds created with the CVD technique. Not only that: there is also a faintly oily or wavy grain in the facet of the surface, a characteristic that occurs in diamonds of this type. So far, the record for lab grown diamonds was held by the 16.41 carat princess cut diamond created by Shanghai Zhengshi Technology and examined in GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory in 2022.

La nuova miniera: l'impianto di produzione in Oregon di diamanti artificiali
Lightbox (De Beers) Man-Made Diamond Oregon Manufacturing Facility

Warning: synthetic diamonds sold as real

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Buy a synthetic diamond and think buying a natural diamond. The risk is there, despite what companies who sell lab-grown diamonds claim. This is indicated by the case broadcast by the popular television program Good Morning America. Of course, the case reported by the broadcast concerns the USA. But it turns on a red light on what can happen on a global scale.

Il diamante cresciuto in laboratorio
Il diamante cresciuto in laboratorio

The story of the Good Morning America investigation concerns a woman, Molly Carlson, who purchased her diamond engagement ring from a jewelry store in a shopping center. After purchasing the ring, she went to another jewelry store to check the jewel. And she had a bad surprise: the jeweler, in fact, revealed that the diamond is artificial, not natural. But at the time of purchase, Molly’s boyfriend confirmed, the seller had described the style, clarity and color, without ever explaining that it was a stone grown in the laboratory.
Molly Carlson
Molly Carlson

It seems that the little transparent commercial practice is widespread. In the United States, the federal agency sent warning letters to eight online sellers of lab-grown diamonds last year that hadn’t made it clear. For example, there are those who have defined synthetic diamonds simply as “alternative”. And it is legitimate to ask: what is the situation in Europe?
Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio Lightbox
Orecchini con diamanti di laboratorio Lightbox

Anello in oro bianco e diamante di laboratorio
Anello in oro bianco e diamante di laboratorio

Anello ispirato alle fioriture eterne e alle farfalle danzanti del poetico Giardino Inglese. Lavorato a mano in oro bianco 18k Fairtrade, con 184 diamanti da laboratorio Diamond Foundry, per 6,84 carati
Anello ispirato alle fioriture eterne e alle farfalle danzanti del poetico Giardino Inglese. Lavorato a mano in oro bianco 18k Fairtrade, con 184 diamanti da laboratorio Diamond Foundry, per 6,84 carati







Eight Alessa’s engagement rings

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Eight engagement rings with diamonds by laboratory: the choice of Alessa ♦ ︎

Diamonds created in the laboratory are becoming increasingly popular. Not so much for the price, which is lower than natural diamonds, but not too much. Synthetic diamonds, now almost indistinguishable from those extracted from the earth by the eye also for the most expert gemologists, boast an ethical motivation: they avoid ground digging, the use of miners in difficult conditions, complicated post-extraction work. It is no coincidence that even the diamond colossus De Beers has announced its entry into the artificial diamond market. And it is no coincidence that the small Maison Alessa Jewelry has chosen The Diamond Foundry, an American company that produces synthetic diamonds and has among its shareholders Leonardo DiCaprio, to create a line of eight engagement rings.

A choice, explained as the result of a common passion for sustainability and ethical production.

Anello in oro rosa con due diamanti per oltre 2 carati
Anello in oro rosa con due diamanti per oltre 2 carati

Alessa’s engagement rings are based on the typical geometries of the brand’s style: for example, with brilliant cut diamonds or pear that have two trilliant cut stones at their side. Surprisingly, these engagement rings are inspired by the colors of the rainbow and Greek mythology. Each piece, eight in all, indicates both a particular nuance and the powers of a specific Greek goddess. For example, red represents passion, and green is hope, violet is spiritual realization.





Anello Iris
Anello Iris

Anello in oro rosa con diamante taglio pera e due diamanti a taglio triangolare
Anello iris in oro rosa con diamante taglio pera e due diamanti a taglio triangolare
Anello della collezione Alessa per Diamond Foundry
Anello della collezione Alessa per Diamond Foundry
Anello Tyche in oro bianco e diamante sintetico taglio smeraldo
Anello Tyche in oro bianco e diamante sintetico taglio smeraldo
Anello di fidanzamento Venus in oro giallo e diamante sintetico taglio brillante
Anello di fidanzamento Venus in oro giallo e diamante sintetico taglio brillante
Yuvraj Pahuja co-fondatore di Alessa
Yuvraj Pahuja co-fondatore di Alessa