Diadema

The crown jewels of Holland

Even the royals of Holland can boast a good number of important jewels. Here are what are ♦

Years ago, Maxima from the Netherlands was included among the 100 most influential people in the world by Time magazine for her social commitment. And she really seems like a lucky woman: she married a prince, she became queen, after Beatrice of Holland abdicated in favor of her son Willem-Alexander in 2013. Maxima Zorreguieta Cerruti, born in Argentina, also had access to one of the richest jewelery collections in Europe. It is a heritage accumulated over the centuries and kept intact thanks to a brilliant solution: that of bringing together the most important pieces in a foundation. And if the female members of the family can use them based on their dynastic role, some of these very precious jewels are reserved exclusively for the reigning queen or consort. Just like Queen Máxima, who one year after her coronation demonstrated great skill in modifying and wearing them. Because these are tiaras that can be dismantled and reassembled like necklaces and bracelets and vice versa. Here’s how, starting from the diamond-sapphire tiara worn on the day of the coronation.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara e gli orecchini della parure di zaffiri
Maxima of Holland with the tiara and earrings of the sapphire set

Sapphire Parure. Made in 1881 for Queen Emma, the tiara, which is part of the Sapphire Parure, has 655 South African round brilliant cut diamonds with a total of 242 carat and 33 sapphires of Cashmere 155 carats. One cushion cut sapphire surrounded by two smaller sapphires and five diamonds on each side is the central element, that can also be worn separately as a brooch. To make it lighter than the new queen has eliminates the three diamonds set in the shape of lilies on the top and replaces them with a single large diamond. The choker of this parure was worn as a tiara adding on top five elements each constituted by one central sapphire surrounded by diamonds in a diamond-shaped set.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la collana della parure di zaffiri indossata come tiara
Maxima of Holland with the sapphire set necklace worn as a tiara

Diamond tiara .It’s a Queen Emma wedding gift from the in 1879, and it was originally topped by three star of diamonds 12-pointed. Now it is composed of three central diamonds that can be replaced by rubies.

Dettaglio della tiara con 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Detail of the tiara with 34 rose-cut diamonds

Rose-cut diamond tiara Tiara formed by a row of 34 large diamonds embedded on the plaque of platinum (chaton) a very popular fashion in the mid-nineteenth century, which can be used as a tiara or necklace.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of 34 rose-cut diamonds

Tiara of antiques pearls Belonged to the Grand Duchess Ana Pavlovna of Russia, wife of William II of the Netherlands, is made up of diamonds and seven pear-shaped pearls that appears to date back to 1600.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara delle perle antiche
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of ancient pearls

Tiara of daisies Transformed several times, initially had on top five pearls round each surrounded by ten diamonds brilliant cut, in order to form a daisy, in fact. In 2002, in lieu of flowers the stars were included handed down by Queen Emma, the second wife of William III. The star-shaped jewelry were popular in the late nineteenth century, and it was Sissi Empress Elisabeth of Austria to bring it to its success using them as barrettes in her hair.

La tiara delle margherite
The daisy tiara

Tiara Mellerio is part of a parure consisting of a necklace, a bracelet and a brooch with rubies and diamonds in large quantities: 385 gems in the tiara, necklace in 425 and 135 in the cuff.

La tiara Mellerio con bracciali e orecchini
The Mellerio tiara with bracelets and earrings

Wurttenberg Tiara is a tiara with an intricate design of diamonds and pearls forming swirls and lilies, surmounted by two rows of pearl teardrop-shaped, six at the bottom and five in the top, both of which are removable and are therefore four possible versions : with or without beads, with the first or second row. It has always been the favorite of the former Queen Beatrix, who since her wedding day worn it in all official occasions.

Dettaglio della tiara Wurttenberg
Detail of the Wurttenberg tiara
Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di tre diamanti centrali sostituibili con i rubini
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of three central diamonds replaceable with rubies
Dettaglio della tiara delle margherite-stelle
Detail of the daisy-star tiara
La tiara dele perle antiche senza perle
The antique pearl tiara without pearls

The jewels of Letizia of Spain

The jewels, and especially the tiaras, of the Queen of Spain Letizia ♦ ︎

Like all the queens, letizia Ortiz Rocasolano, wife of Philip VI of Spain, loves jewelry. As a former network journalist such as Bloomberg, CNN and the Spanish public broadcaster Tve, he is well aware of the value of image and visual communication. Clothing and jewelry selection are, therefore, particularly taken care of by Letizia, who married the then Prince of Asturias, Felipe di Borbone, on May 22, 2004. The ceremony was an event followed by TV stations all over the world: on the screens, one of the innumerable tiaras that are part of the royal kit has appeared. It’s a kind of jewel that seems to be among the queen’s favorites.

La tiara regalata dall'ex dittatore Francisco Franco alla allora regina di Spagna, Sofia, e ora indossata da Letizia
La tiara regalata dall’ex dittatore Francisco Franco alla allora regina di Spagna, Sofia, e ora indossata da Letizia

It is no coincidence that to celebrate the wedding anniversary, King Philip VI gave a tiara worth € 50,000 to Letizia: it is made up of 450 brilliant cut diamonds and five pairs of Australian pearls. Alongside the tiaras, of course, the Queen of Spain has many other jewels, including a pair of earrings with three sapphires each and a large Cartier bracelet in white gold and diamonds. About bracelet: Letizia has also decided to turn a diamond crown of Queen Victoria Eugenia. The set diamonds have been removed to be reused in two identical bracelets.
The Prussian tiara. From the neoclassical line with Greek inspiration, the tiara was made in Berlin in 1913 by the jeweler Koch. In platinum and diamonds, it is composed of two bands: the upper part with laurel leaves and the bottom with greek, in the middle a row of vertical bands of diamonds with a central motif from which hangs a pear-cut diamond. She was presented to Sofia by her mother for her eighteenth birthday.

tiara e1531652614656
La tiara prussiana
Letizia Ortiz indossa la tiara prussiana il giorno delle nozze con Felipe di Borbone
Letizia Ortiz indossa la tiara prussiana il giorno delle nozze con Felipe di Borbone

The chatones necklace. King Alfonso Alfonso XIII’s wedding gift to his wife was a type of necklace very popular in the mid-nineteenth century: diamonds set on a platinum plate (chaton) with a very discreet four-stemmed frame. The king used to have two diamonds on every anniversary, birthday or birth. Result? A 90-carat necklace that came up to life. Divided into two parts, one touched Juan Carlos and is often seen at the neck of Sofia of Spain.

La regina Sofia indossa la tiara di Cartier e la collana chatones
La regina Sofia indossa la tiara di Cartier e la collana chatones
Letizia con la tiara chatones
Letizia con la tiara chatones

The Cartier tiara. Created in the Twenties for Queen Victoria Eugenia, the diadem is composed of a central aigrette, or a frame or jewel in the shape of a feather, in platinum and diamonds and three sloping curls with a pearl set in the center. In a second time the pearls were replaced by emeralds inherited from the empress Eugenie of France, her godmother. Which were then sold during the Roman exile and the tiara returned to its original appearance.

Senza titolo 3 e1531653028930
La tiara Cartier in un immagine precedente all’eliminazione della perla sulla sommità

The Mellerio or de la Chata tiara. Isabella II’s gift for her daughter’s wedding, nicknamed Chata, is one of the few jewels that has been saved from the sale during the Paris exile. The platinum structure ideally depicts the foam of a wave in the center and on the sides of the shells from which pear-shaped pearls hang and 12 diamonds that sway following the movements of the head. But a reader of gioiellis.com (see comments at the bottom of this page) points out that the story is another: the Mellerio diadem of pearls and diamonds, he specifies, was not sold to Drouot (30 June 1878) by Isabelle II simply because the queen received an annuity from Spain after the return to the throne of her son, Alfonso, and it is with this money that she bought new jewels from the French jeweler, like a necklace and a star-shaped tiara.

Senza titolo 22
La principessa delle Asturie con la tiara de la Chata

The floral tiara. It turns into a necklace or brooch the diadem composed of large diamond flowers, given by Francisco Franco to Sofia of Greece, betrothed to Juan Carlos of Bourbon.

tiara floerale franco
La tiara floreale regalo di Francisco Franco a Sofia di Grecia per le nozze con Juan Carlos

The Niarchos rubies. By Van Cleef et Arpels, they are a wedding present in Sofia of Greece by the Greek shipowner. The necklace consists of a chain mounted in gold with cabochon rubies of different sizes, each surrounded by diamonds. The tiara is a double row of the same motif of the necklace and can be used as a two-round necklace or as a long sautoir. To complete the set of drop earrings.

Niarchos
La parure di rubini, regalo di Stavros Niarchos a Sofia di Grecia per le nozze con Juan Carlos

The Russian tiara. Made of platinum, pearls and diamonds for Christine of Austria, regent of Spain, is inspired by the traditional Russian female headdress Kokoshnikc, from which the name comes.

Senza titolo 4
Sofia di Spagna con la tiara russa, appartenuta a Cristina d’Austria reggente di Spagna

The tiara of lily flowers. The most spectacular among the wedding gifts of Alfonso XIII, was created in 1906 by the jeweler Ansorena of Madrid and is composed of brilliant cut diamonds and cushion, on a platinum frame that draws the heraldic symbol of the Bourbons: the lilies. Queen Sofia has worn it only on special occasions.

Senza titolo 9
La tiara con i fiori di giglio simbolo araldico dei Borboni
La tiara regalata da Filippo per l'anniversario di nozze
La tiara regalata da Filippo per l’anniversario di nozze
La ex regina di Spagna Sofia con la tiara prussiana
La regina di Spagna Sofia con la tiara prussiana
La regina Sofia con la tiara
La regina Sofia con la tiara

Tiaras: a brilliant idea

Diadem and tiaras are all the rage, they can be precious or simple bijoux. Here is a selection and advice on how to wear a tiara or a diadem. And not just at the wedding ♦

Today, the word tiara has become synonymous with diadem. The tiara is often translated with a tiara-like word in many languages. Both words, however, derive from the ornaments worn on the head by men and women in antiquity. These ornaments indicated high status. But today this is no longer the case. The tiara is often worn on formal occasions, particularly if the dress code is a white tie, or for ceremonies such as weddings. And not only that: a tiara can also be worn with informal clothing. Of course, in this case, it will be different from the tiara used for a ceremony.

Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby's)
Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis wears a brooch and tiara with diamonds and emeralds (image from Sotheby’s catalog)

The first woman to minimize the royalty of tiaras, tiaras and crowns, the prerogative of high jewelery and high society, was Courtney Love, in 1995, when she showed up at a concert with a statement circle fakest crystals that looked like diamonds. Something similar to the crown of Miss America, pity the lipstick was deliberately smudged.

Meghan Markle, prima del suo principesco matrimonio, con tiara
Meghan Markle, before her princely wedding, with tiara

It was 20 years ago and now there are girls in New York who do not give up a jewel in the hair even to go to the office, while the fashion designer Vivienne Westwood wears a crown of coral when she goes on a bike ride to London. And so, like Borsalino hat is back in fashion for young men and casual dress, an outfit is not complete if it lacks the right ornament on head.

How to wear the tiara

That, pay attention, is no longer an expression of a rank, but a free choice. The most interesting thing is that the democratization of the tiara has even changed the label of the young princesses and queens in Europe, with Kate Middleton in the head, you should say, rather than the back door, in line with your ears and tilted at least 45 degrees, while the custom would like placed far ahead and almost horizontal. Now that you know even the proper way to bring here is a selection suited to weddings and less formal occasions.

Carolina Herrera, Falling Jasmine tiara e orecchino a bottone in argento placcato oro e smalto bianco
Carolina Herrera, Falling Jasmine tiara and ear stud in gold plated silver and white enamel

Tiaras are often worn by actresses in movies, comedies and on television. In 2013, Cartier created a replica of the ruby and diamond tiara they had originally made in 1956 for Princess Grace of Monaco for the film Grace of Monaco, starring Nicole Kidman. But the tiaras can also be made of plastic, rhinestones, Swarovski crystals or any other non-precious material. They are worn by women on occasions such as a party or prom. They are also worn by beauty pageant winners and children who dress up as Disney princesses.

Princess Eugenia con la tiara
Princess Eugenie with tiara
La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara
Princess Beatrice with her husband Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, wearing the Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara
Swarovski, Lucia tiara, in palladio e oro
Swarovski, Lucia tiara, palladium and gold
Tiara in platino con acquamarina
Bulgari, platinum tiara with aquamarine
Tiffany, diadema Butterfly. Gli spinelli rosa e i diamanti tondi taglio brillante adornano un diadema in platino di squisita manifattura, che sviluppa il tema della farfalla al centro. Peso complessivo in carati: diamanti tondi taglio brillante, 19.97; spinelli rosa, 10.98; diamanti marquise, 0.73
Tiffany, Butterfly tiara. Pink spinels and round brilliant diamonds adorn an exquisitely crafted platinum tiara, developing the butterfly theme at its centre. Total Carat Weight: Round Brilliant Diamonds, 19.97; pink spinels, 10.98; marquise diamonds, 0.73
TIara di Susan McLeary
Susan McLeary tiara
Kate Middleton con la tiara di Cartier
Kate Middleton with the Cartier tiara
Tiara e collana vittoriana venduta da Christie's
Victorian tiara and necklace sold at Christie’s
BijouxBrigitte, diadema color argento con strass. Prezzo: 25 euro
Bijou Brigitte, silver-colored tiara with rhinestones
La tiara progettata per Asscher (dal sito di Reena Ahluwalia)
The tiara designed for Asscher (from Reena Ahluwalia’s website)
Oscar de La Renta, tiara in metallo placcato oro e cristalli. Prezzo: 300 euro
Oscar de La Renta, gold plated metal tiara and crystals

The jewels of Queen Elizabeth seen up close




The farewell to Queen Elizabeth touch millions of people. But the queen leaves a legacy not only linked to her institutional figure, but also to her material. Starting with her jewels. And one of the events related to the queen’s jubilee, celebrated just two months before her death, concerns the display of her majesty jewels. The exhibition, organized by the Royal Collection Trust, is located in what used to be the Queen’s home, Buckingham Palace, London. Visitors can admire many of the Queen’s historic jewels, accompanied by original hand-finished images and prints taken by Dorothy Wilding (1893-1976), who has portrayed Elizabeth II on multiple occasions. The exhibition is titled The Platinum Jubilee: The Queen’s Accession and runs until October 2nd.

La regina Elisabetta indossa la tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland
La regina Elisabetta indossa la tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland

Jewelery is the most exciting item for aficionados. Also because there are not only jewels that have an exclusively historical value, as well as being precious. Many of the jewels on display, on the other hand, are among the favorites of the queen, who has worn them several times on official occasions and for the portraits of her that have become icons of her. For example, the Diamond Diadem tiara and The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland tiara.

La tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland. La regina fece riattaccare la parte superiore e la fascia nel 1969 e da allora la tiara è diventata uno dei suoi gioielli più riconoscibili
La tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland. La regina fece riattaccare la parte superiore e la fascia nel 1969 e da allora la tiara è diventata uno dei suoi gioielli più riconoscibili

The Diamond Diadem was created on the occasion of the coronation of George IV in 1821. It is a jewel made with 1,333 brilliant-cut diamonds and a band with two rows of pearls. Two diamonds are set in the shape of a rose, a thistle and two shamrocks: they are the national symbols of England, Scotland and Ireland. The diadem was inherited in 1837 by Queen Victoria and, among other things, appears on the first stamp ever created, the legendary Penny Black. The diadem went to Queen Alexandra, then to Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother and then to Elizabeth II, who wore it on the day of her coronation and for the opening of parliament from the first year of her reign.

Il Diamond Diadem. È incastonato con 1.333 diamanti taglio brillante e 169 perle. Il diadema è stato originariamente creato per l'incoronazione di Giorgio IV nel 1821
Il Diamond Diadem. È incastonato con 1.333 diamanti taglio brillante e 169 perle. Il diadema è stato originariamente creato per l’incoronazione di Giorgio IV nel 1821

The Vladimir diadem, on the other hand, is so called because it was made for the Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia and sold by her daughter to Queen Mary in 1921. Inherited from the current queen in 1953, the diadem was worn with its original pearl drops. . But there are also jewels that are visible in public for the first time, such as the Dorset bow brooch and a pair of diamond bracelets.

Diadema Vladimir. Realizzato per la Granduchessa Vladimir di Russia, questo diadema è stato venduto da sua figlia alla regina Mary nel 1921. Ereditato dalla regina nel 1953, il diadema è stato indossato con le sue gocce di perle originali
Diadema Vladimir. Realizzato per la Granduchessa Vladimir di Russia, questo diadema è stato venduto da sua figlia alla regina Mary nel 1921. Ereditato dalla regina nel 1953, il diadema è stato indossato con le sue gocce di perle originali

The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland tiara, on the other hand, has been owned by the queen since 1947, as a wedding gift from her grandmother, Queen Mary. Among the jewels there is also the Nizam of Hyderabad necklace in platinum with 300 diamonds: it was donated to Princess Elizabeth by the Nizam of Hyderabad (governor of the Kingdom, title of the native sovereigns of the Indian state of Hyderabad) as a wedding gift in 1947. Elizabeth II he wore it was often worn for official engagements and formal portraits.

Collana Nizam of Hyderabad in platino con 300 diamanti
Collana Nizam of Hyderabad in platino con 300 diamanti
Bracciale di Cartier in platino, diamanti e zaffiri
Bracciale di Cartier in platino, diamanti e zaffiri
Collana Delhi Durbar. È composta con nove smeraldi originariamente di proprietà della nonna della regina, Mary. Il diamante ovale da 8,8 carati è stato tagliato dal diamante Cullinan, il più grande mai trovato
Collana Delhi Durbar. È composta con nove smeraldi
originariamente di proprietà della nonna della regina, Mary. Il diamante ovale da 8,8 carati è stato tagliato dal diamante Cullinan, il più grande mai trovato
Garrard, collana regina del Sudafrica, 1947
Garrard, collana regina del Sudafrica, 1947
Garrard, bracciale della regina del Sudafrica
Garrard, bracciale della regina del Sudafrica
La regina Elisabetta II ritratta da Dorothy Wilding
La regina Elisabetta II ritratta da Dorothy Wilding
La regina Elisabetta II indossa il Diamond Diadem e la collana Nizam of Hyderabad
La regina Elisabetta II indossa il Diamond Diadem e la collana Nizam of Hyderabad
Spilla con diamanti dono della contea del Dorset alla regina Mary nel 1893. È stata donata alla principessa Elisabetta come regalo di nozze nel 1947
Spilla con diamanti dono della contea del Dorset alla regina Mary nel 1893. È stata donata alla principessa Elisabetta come regalo di nozze nel 1947







Lady Diana’s tiara (and 50 others) exhibited in London at Sotheby’s




Sotheby’s has organized the largest diadem exhibition ever staged in London in the last 20 years (28 May – 15 June). The event also coincides with the Jubilee Season, the celebrations for the 70th anniversary of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. And among the tiaras on display there is one more special than others: the historic Spencer Tiara, worn by one of the most influential members of the Royal Family: Lady Diana. The tiara dates back to 1767 and has been passed down from generation to generation within the Spencer family. The jewel was worn by Lady Diana, just over 40 years ago, also on the occasion of her wedding with Prince Charles in St. Paul’s Cathedral.

La Spencer Tiara
La Spencer Tiara

The Spencer tiara has a garland-style design, with a heart-shaped central element set with a diamond flanked by swirls, interspersed with star-shaped and trumpet-shaped flowers, also studded with diamonds, set in silver and gold. The central diamond was particularly loved by Lady Diana: her grandmother, Lady Cynthia Hamilton, received it as a wedding gift for her wedding in 1919 with Jack, Viscount Althorp, the future seventh Earl Spencer.
La principessa Diana con la Spencer Tiara
La principessa Diana con la Spencer Tiara

Over the course of nearly 200 years, as is often the case with jewelry of this type, the Spencer tiara was added and transformed until the crown jeweler, Garrard, was commissioned in the 1930s to transform the original tiara into the current jewel. Lady Diana was known for being fond of her Spencer Tiara, often wearing it for special events: she chose it at least seven times between 1983 and 1992.

The Queen’s Jubilee celebrations have given us the perfect opportunity to put on public display an outstanding selection of tiaras from noble and royal provenance, many of which haven’t been exhibited in decades. The sourcing of these jewels has been a labour of love, resulting in an exhibition that showcases the best iterations within the tiara style register, through some of its most famous incarnations – including the much-loved and photographed Spencer Tiara. This is also a wonderful moment for us to shine a special light on the dazzling craftsmanship delivered by generations of mainly British-based jewellers across several centuries of tiara making.
Kristian Spofforth, Head of Jewelery at Sotheby’s London

La Derby Tiara, inizialmente creata per la Duchessa di Devonshire nel 1893
La Derby Tiara, inizialmente creata per la Duchessa di Devonshire nel 1893

In addition to Lady Diana’s tiara, the exhibition features about fifty tiaras of aristocratic and royal provenance, with some pieces that will be exhibited publicly for the first time. Virtually all of the tiaras in the show were made and owned by British nobility and together they offer a dazzling and comprehensive review of all major tiara design styles, through some of the genre’s most exemplary exponents.
La tiara della regina Vittoria con diamanti e smeraldi realizzata dal gioielliere Joseph Kitching nel 1845
La tiara della regina Vittoria con diamanti e smeraldi realizzata dal gioielliere Joseph Kitching nel 1845

A number of tiaras in the exhibition in particular were worn on the occasion of the queen’s coronation in 1953, such as the Anglesey tiara, thought to have been made around 1890. Or the Derby Tiara, initially created for the Duchess of Devonshire in 1893 and the Westminster Halo Tiara, commissioned from Parisian jewelers Lacloche Frères in 1930 by the Duke of Westminster for his bride Loelia Ponsonby. Therefore, the most established designs within the tiara genre can be compared, such as the Empire style, Romantic Naturalism, Belle Époque, Art Deco, modern and contemporary genre.
The Fitzwilliam tiara, circa 1820,  esposta alla Tiaras exhibition at Sotheby’s
The Fitzwilliam tiara, circa 1820, esposta alla Tiaras exhibition at Sotheby’s

Among the most special pieces there is also Queen Victoria’s emerald and diamond tiara, designed by Prince Consort Albert in his Gothic revival style in 1845. The tiara was made by the crown jeweler Joseph Kitching, for the princely sum (a that time) of 1,150 pounds. It is one of the many jewels the prince has devised for the queen over the years and was reportedly her favorite. It is also considered to be one of the most elegant and sumptuous colored gemstone tiaras ever created: set in gold it has cushion-shaped diamonds interspersed with step-cut emeralds lined up on its base, topped with additional diamonds and emeralds in swirls and topped with a Graduated row of 19 pear-shaped inverted cabochon emeralds, the largest of which weighs 15 carats.
Tiara di Cartier, 1904
Tiara di Cartier, 1904

This tiara is often associated with representations of a younger Queen Victoria with her family, chief among them is Franz Xaver Winterhalter’s portrait The Royal Family in 1846, which depicts Queen Victoria with Prince Albert surrounded by their children, as well as to a number of the artist’s more intimate portraits. Queen Victoria is also known for wearing the tiara in several official engagements, including a state visit to France in 1855.

Tiara appartenuta a Giuseppina Bonaparte in oro e cammei
Tiara appartenuta a Giuseppina Bonaparte in oro e cammei

Tiara con diamanti e perle coltivate
Tiara con diamanti e perle coltivate

Tiara con diamanti, circa 1830
Tiara con diamanti, circa 1830
Diadema di Cartier con ametista, zaffiro e onice, 1920
Diadema di Cartier con ametista, zaffiro e onice, 1920
Tiara di Van Cleef & Arpels con diamanti e turchese, 1960
Tiara di Van Cleef & Arpels con diamanti e turchese, 1960
Diadema in argento placcato di Garrard
Diadema in argento placcato di Garrard
Diadema i a banda con gemme, circa 1920
Diadema i a banda con gemme, circa 1920
Tiara di diamanti di Carrington & co
Tiara di diamanti di Carrington & co

Diadema e collana della seconda metà dell'Ottocento
Diadema e collana della seconda metà dell’Ottocento







Two big diamonds and princely tiaras at Christie’s auction




The catalog is now completed. And for fans of exceptional jewelry and gem collectors, who are a particularly popular type of investment in difficult historical times, Christie’s sale of Magnifxicent Jewels on May 11 at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues will offer plenty of opportunities. Starting with The Rock, a diamond that starts from one with a very wide gap: from 19 to 30 million Swiss francs (13-24 million euros or 9.2-20.5 million dollars). The diamond weighs 228.31 carats and is the largest ever seen at auction.

Rahul Kadakia con The Rock
Rahul Kadakia con The Rock

We are delighted to present the Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction led by THE ROCK, the largest ever white diamond to be offered at auction and a landmark moment in the market. Alongside this the legendary Red Cross Diamond, which has supported those enduring hardships since it was sold at Christie’s Red Cross Appeal in 1918, is offered with a share of the proceeds to be donated to the International Committee of the Red Cross. With the very best quality gemstones, jewels from noble provenance and iconic designs, the auction represents an exciting opportunity for our international collectors this season.
Max Fawcett, Head of Department, Jewelery

As we have already told, The Red Cross Diamond is back for the third time at auction, which despite its name is a cushion-cut intense yellow color of over 205 carats. It was first sold by Christie’s in 1918, and part of the proceeds went to the Red Cross. And this sale also partly benefits the International Committee of the Red Cross.

The red Cross diamond, di oltre 205 carati
The red Cross diamond, di oltre 205 carati

For nearly half a century, our family has had the privilege of safeguarding the Red Cross diamond. Since it was first brought to market in 1918, the legacy of this symbol of humanity has always been the support of communities ravaged by war, famine and other hardships endured by people across the world. At this auspicious moment in history, we honour the call others have made before us. In collaboration with Christie’s, we are pleased to offer The Red Cross Diamond for sale with a share of the proceeds to be donated to the great institution whose name it bears. We further dedicate this sale to the tireless efforts of the volunteers of the International Committee of the Red Cross and are privileged to support their cause.
Anonymous owner of The Red Cross Diamond

La Tiara Fürstenberg
La Tiara Fürstenberg

The Magnificent Jewels auction also includes 19th and 20th century tiaras, including the Tiara Fürstenberg (estimate 400,000-600,000 Swiss francs), and a pearl and diamond tiara with the brand of the famous Austrian jeweler Gustav Flach. This exemplary handcrafted jewel belonged to her Royal Highness of her Princess of Fürstenberg, born Countess Irma of Schönborn Buchheim (1867-1948), member of one of the most eminent aristocratic families of the Habsburg Empire. A letter in the Fürstenberg archives, directed by jeweler Flach Mediansky & Paltscho, explains the many ways the tiara can be transformed, from a tiara for Viennese high society court dances to a more moderate style with pearls, while the diamond motifs can be worn as a necklace, brooch or hairpins.

Collana di Bulgari con diamanti e rubini
Collana di Bulgari con diamanti e rubini
Orecchini di Jar a spirale con tormaline verdi
Orecchini di Jar a spirale con tormaline verdi







Joséphine’s jewels double the estimate




In the year of the anniversary of Napoleon’s death, two diadems which are traditionally thought to have belonged to Joséphine de Beauharnais (1763-1814), wife of the French emperor, were sold by Sotheby’s London for £ 576,600 (approx. 671.00 euros or 759,000 dollars). A figure that has almost doubled the maximum estimate of 300,000 pounds. A sign that historical jewels retain a charm that goes beyond their material value.

Giuseppina di Beauharnais ritratta da Andrea Appiani
Joséphine de Beauharnais ritratta da Andrea Appiani

Tiaras are considered examples of the finest French craftsmanship of the early 19th century. They were made in Paris around 1808 with a neoclassical design. After the French Revolution, in fact, Napoleon had tried to legitimize his new government by resurrecting historical and cultural references to ancient Rome. Joséphine understood the value of her public image of her, and used clothing and jewelry to evoke the ideals of the ancient world and connect her with the present Empire to increase the prestige of her husband’s regime.
Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (probabilmente fine XVI secolo); offerto insieme a una chiusura da cintura di design simile, con un cammeo in agata di Medusa (probabilmente fine del XVI secolo) e un ornamento per cintura con un cammeo in pietra dura di Zeus (1780-1800), nella custodia originale
Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (probabilmente fine XVI secolo); offerto insieme a una chiusura da cintura di design simile, con un cammeo in agata di Medusa (probabilmente fine del XVI secolo) e un ornamento per cintura con un cammeo in pietra dura di Zeus (1780-1800), nella custodia originale

The two tiaras are part of a set (designed to also be worn together). They are made of gold and blue champlevé enamel decorated with twenty-five carnelian carvings, predominantly male and female classical heads. They were offered together with a pair of drop earrings, each with a single intaglio and similarly decorated, and a hair comb and belt ornament, centered with a Bacchus carnelian cameo. The jewels have been kept in London for 150 years.

Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (fine XVI secolo)
Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (fine XVI secolo)







The diadems of Joséphine de Beauharnais up for auction at Sotheby’s




2021 was the bicentenary of Napoleon Bonaparte’s death. The sale by Sotheby’s of two diadems that belonged to Joséphine de Beauharnais (1763-1814), at least according to the current reconstruction, is therefore topical. Joséphine, wife of Napoleon Bonaparte (1769-1821), was empress of France and wore these very rare diadems which, apart from their material value, constitute a historical testimony of French craftsmanship of the early nineteenth century.

Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (probabilmente fine XVI secolo); offerto insieme a una chiusura da cintura di design simile, con un cammeo in agata di Medusa (probabilmente fine del XVI secolo) e un ornamento per cintura con un cammeo in pietra dura di Zeus (1780-1800), nella custodia originale
Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (probabilmente fine XVI secolo); offerto insieme a una chiusura da cintura di design simile, con un cammeo in agata di Medusa (probabilmente fine del XVI secolo) e un ornamento per cintura con un cammeo in pietra dura di Zeus (1780-1800), nella custodia originale

The jewels were made in Paris around 1808, in the neoclassical style that Napoleon liked, who was looking for historical and cultural references in ancient Rome. Joséphine, in perfect harmony, used clothing and jewelry to evoke the ideals of the ancient world and linking it with the current Empire to increase the prestige of her husband’s regime. Just like an influencer, she is. The empress was a lover of jewelry. In just six years, Joséphine has spent an impressive sum of more than 25 million francs on jewelry and clothing, far exceeding the allowance she had been awarded.
Set Filetto o Collare con nove cammei e 10 piccoli intagli con animali, francese o italiano, XIX secolo
Set Filetto o Collare con nove cammei e 10 piccoli intagli con animali, francese o italiano, XIX secolo

These majestic jewels set with cameos and carvings certainly evoke the style of the great Empress Joséphine – her rank as wife of Napoleon Bonaparte, her impeccable taste and her interest in the classical world. Empress Joséphine was much more than just a collector of antiques. Being the first to incorporate these cameos and carvings into her dress, wearing them side by side with pearls and diamonds, she created a completely new fashion that swept Paris and the world, based on neoclassical forms. The jewels offered here demonstrate the finest and most delicate work of the best French workshops and, today, there are hardly any comparable pieces in the world. As fashions changed, the jewels were broken down and reshaped, making their survival truly exceptional.
Kristian Spofforth, Head of Sotheby’s Jewels Department in London

Chiusura da cintura, cammeo in agata di Medusa fine del XVI secolo e un ornamento per cintura con un cammeo in pietra dura di Zeus (1780-1800), nella custodia originale
Chiusura da cintura, cammeo in agata di Medusa fine del XVI secolo e un ornamento per cintura con un cammeo in pietra dura di Zeus (1780-1800), nella custodia originale

The two diadems are part of two sets. They are set with precious stones engraved with classic heads, many of which are perhaps ancient: it was believed that they bestow on the wearer virtues such as heroism, fidelity and love. The jewels are part of a private collection in the UK, where they have remained for at least 150 years, and both are still contained in their original leather boxes. They will be offered with estimates of 200,000-300,000 and 100,000-200,000 pounds in the sale of Sotheby’s London Treasures, scheduled for 7 December.
Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (fine XVI secolo)
Diadema in oro, cammeo e smalto di Jacques-Amboise Oliveras del 1808 circa con cinque cammei ovali in pietra dura raffiguranti Zeus, Dioniso (probabilmente XVIII secolo), Medusa, Pan e Gaia (fine XVI secolo)

The sets will first be exhibited from 2 to 9 November at the Mandarin Oriental, Geneva, together with the highlights of Sotheby’s sales of Magnificent Jewels. A similar set is kept in the collection of the Swedish royal family, inherited from Joséphine’s son, Eugène Rose de Beauharnais, Duke of Leuchtenberg. Her daughter, Joséphine of Leuchtenberg, brought numerous jewels to the Swedish royal family when she married the future King Oscar I in 1823.

Sei cammei in pietra dura e un grande intaglio, con quattro piccoli intagli in corniola, attaccati a una collana associata più tardi, italiano, fine XVIII/inizio XIX secolo
Sei cammei in pietra dura e un grande intaglio, con quattro piccoli intagli in corniola, attaccati a una collana associata più tardi, italiano, fine XVIII/inizio XIX secolo







A spiral for Chaumet high jewelery

////




The aesthetics of the ellipse, of the lines that wrap around a center of gravity as in the new collection by Chaumet, characterized the Baroque period. But not only that: even in the nineteenth century the spirals had a moment of glory. For example, the column in the center of Place Vendôme 44 meters high and decorated with bas-reliefs representing trophies and scenes of battles fought by the French army testifies to this. As in the Trajan’s Column in Rome, erected in 113 to celebrate the conquest of Dacia, the bas-reliefs in the Place Vendôme monument also follow a spiral pattern. And this is precisely why the Maison that has been producing high jewelery since 1780 (before the column was erected) was inspired by the monument. In any case, Chaumet was the first jewelry store to open a shop on Place Vendôme in 1812.

Tiara Torsade de Chaumet
Tiara Torsade de Chaumet

The result is Torsade de Chaumet, which features jewels marked by the spiral motif, in white gold, diamonds and rubies, sapphires or emeralds. Do not miss the jewel that contributed to the fame of Chaumet: the tiara. The Maison also created one for its first major client, the Empress Josephine, wife of Napoleon. The Torsade de Chaumet tiara is in 18-karat white gold, set with 385 Ef Vvs brilliant-cut white diamonds totaling 63.63 carats and 156 rose-cut white diamonds totaling 23.87 carats. The spirals are then used for earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings, always as a hallmark of the collection.

Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco, zaffiro e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco, zaffiro e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco, smeraldo e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco, smeraldo e diamanti
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti

Collana in oro bianco, diamanti e rubini
Collana in oro bianco, diamanti e rubini







What jewelry to wear at the wedding


x



What jewelry to wear on your wedding day? If you are thinking about what to choose besides the wedding ring, read this article. The first rule is … ♦

You have identified the dress. You decided the banquet room. You have found an agreement (tiring) about the guest list. One question remains: which jewels to wear on the wedding day? All right, there’s the wedding ring, but then? If you have any doubts here are 9 useful tips.

Anello nuziale sulla mano sinistra
Anello nuziale

1 Match fabrics and gold. Gold also has a color: it can be white, yellow or pink. If the gold color matches that of the dress the effect will be better. Did you think about it? The ivory color of a fabric, for example, is best combined with yellow gold, because it is in nuance with the shade of the fabric. If the dress is candid without shades, it is best combined with white gold or platinum and maybe even with silver, provided it is of design. Beware of pearls: even those small balls can be more or less white and match with the dress. Pink gold goes better with a colorful dress: not all of them are married in white, right? Another thing to keep an eye on: often the wedding dresses are adorned with beads or silver decorations: in this case the jewels must be coordinated with the type of precious decor chosen.

Gioielli abbinati con il colore del tessuto
Gioielli abbinati con il colore del tessuto

2 We must not overdo it. Even if you have lots of jewels in your drawer, or you have the option to buy them at will, on your wedding day, it’s best not to look like a Christmas tree. It is not necessary to wear diadem, earrings, necklace, bracelet and perhaps other rings at the same time. Better to choose one or two quality jewels, but that are appropriate with the dress. The old “less si more” is also valid when you get married.

Per i gioielli nel giorno del matrimonio vince sempre la semplicità
Per i gioielli nel giorno del matrimonio vince sempre la semplicità

3 Earrings only if … You must pay attention to the earrings: not only must they be in tone with the rest of the clothing, but also to the shape of the face. They could also be too much, for example, if you have opted for a very rich tiara.

Read also: How choose earrings

Orecchini pendenti molto vistosi, ma niente collana né diadema
Orecchini pendenti molto vistosi, ma niente collana né diadema

4 Simple necklace. A necklace is almost obligatory along with a dress with a neckline. A thin chain with a not too big pendant is as good as the classic string of pearls, single or double. Those who have a thin and slender neck can also venture into the choice of a choker, provided that it is coordinated with the dress and does not seem to be found by chance in the jeweltrunk of the grandmother. No necklace, however, in the case of a one-shoulder dress.

Collana, orecchini e diadema con piccole perle: perfettamente coordinati
Collana, orecchini e diadema con piccole perle: perfettamente coordinati

5 No watches. The time has come to say “yes”. But just this day is not the case to consult the watch, do you agree? Others will think of telling you not to go too early or late. If you feel the need to wear something on your wrist, better a bracelet that matches your dress. Remember that the hands are very photographed on the wedding day: one more reason for a reasoned choice of the bracelet that must be in tune with the ring.

Parure di collana e bracciale. Niente orologio
Parure di collana e bracciale. Niente orologio

6 Respect the times. There is nothing worse than to be at the last moment for the choice of jewels: they are a fundamental part of the look for an equally fundamental day of life. Choose and try the pairings at least three months before.

Il rischio di arrivare alla vigilia del matrimonio senza l'anello
Il rischio di arrivare alla vigilia del matrimonio senza l’anello

7 Budget. It is not the case to wear so many cheap jewels. If your wallet does not allow you a large expense, better to choose one only, but of quality: it will remain with you the rest of your life and it is a small investment.

Fede di Cartier, oro bianco e diamanti.
Fede di Cartier, oro bianco e diamanti. Prezzo: 19.900 euro

8 Tiara yes or not? The diadem in the shape of a small circle or crown, decorated with pearls, precious stones or flowers, is the jewel that is more visible than others. Therefore, great caution is needed in the choice, also because a tiara risks overwhelming the effect of the dress. First of all, the diadem should be coordinated with the dress: for example, if the dress has beads, even the diadem will use pearls. Moreover, it is certainly combined with other jewels: usually a tiara is in silver or white gold. Pay attention that the color corresponds to that of earrings or of the bracelet, if you wear one. Another important point: the diadem must correspond to the quantity and type of hair. Needless to wear a small circle between a mass of curly hair: it will disappear. Finally: it is absolutely necessary to try the tiara first, and with the type of hairstyle of the hair that will be used on the wedding day. When you do the test, wear it for a while, to see if it’s comfortable or turn into a mechanism that causes a headache.

Una tiara può anche essere un semplice cerchio con perline
Un diadema può anche essere un semplice cerchio con perline

9 Choose the ring. It seems obvious, yet there are those who are reduced at the last moment in choosing the ring to be exchanged at the time of “yes”. It is a mistake: that ring will be the most worn jewel in the years to come, better to weigh well the purchase. It is said that the ring should be a simple yellow gold faith: now there are wedding rings in all three colors of gold. There are also those who choose a ring with colored stones but, in that case, it is more difficult to combine with the dress and everything else. A useful tip: consider the type of work or habitual occupation and choose a ring that allows you freedom of movement or do not risk ruining yourself with daily use.

Anelli nuziali
Anelli nuziali







New Year with a jewel in the hair




Party with something precious in your hair: a tiara. Diadems and crowns are perfect jewels for a special evening ♦

A little courage and a sparkling touch: to feel like queens of the night on the occasion of a special evening (you decide which one) you just need a jewel in your hair. You don’t have to be a princess or wear a wedding dress to wear a tiara. By the way, it is better to specify: a tiara is a light ornamental crown. It is a jewel worn by women since ancient times. The women of ancient Greece and the matrons of ancient Rome wore a tiara. Today the tiara is worn in particular during very formal occasions but not only, as some believe, for the wedding ceremony. If you are curious, the word tiara is a word that has been preserved from Latin, and in turn derives from the ancient Greek τιάρα, a term that was imported from ancient Persian. A synonym for tiara is diadem.

Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby's)
Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby’s)

The tiara is often associated with nobility, although it is an ornament that has now come into common use, even if limited to important occasions. It is widely used, for example, in American high society. The fact remains that originally tiaras and diadems were the prerogative of the nobles. It is no coincidence that the British royal family has an unknown number of them. The queen often wears tiaras at state ceremonies. Most of Queen Elizabeth’s tiaras are a legacy of Queen Alexandra of Denmark, wife of Edward VII, the eldest son of Queen Victoria.
La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara
La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara

Queen Mary, wife of George V, son of Edward), for example received a famous kokoshnik style tiara (Russian folk hairstyle) as a wedding gift from Lord and Lady Iveagh in 1893. It consists of numerous interlocking diamond circles, with pearl drops stuck inside. It is now worn by Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall and wife of Prince Charles.
La Kokoshnik tiara e una collana di diamanti e smeraldi
La Kokoshnik tiara e una collana di diamanti e smeraldi indossati dalla regina Elisabetta

But tiaras aren’t always that valuable. There are some with faux pearls, there are tiaras with Swarovski crystals, small Greek-style crowns, but with leather leaves instead of gold. In short, this jewel is no longer placed only on crowned heads and there are also those who wear it to go out at night, like Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Parker and other celebrities. In short, why do without it?
Carolina Herrera, Falling Jasmine tiara e orecchino a bottone in argento placcato oro e smalto bianco
Carolina Herrera, Falling Jasmine tiara e orecchino a bottone in argento placcato oro e smalto bianco

Tiara di diamanti trasformabile in collana di Cartier
Tiara di diamanti trasformabile in collana di Cartier

Tiara in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e ametiste di diverse sfumature
Tiara in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e ametiste di diverse sfumature

Meghan Markle, prima del suo principesco matrimonio, con tiara
Meghan Markle, prima del suo principesco matrimonio, con tiara







The strange story of the tiara worn by Beatrice

/




Most of the comments in the newspapers and on the web about the wedding of Princess Beatrice with Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi centered on the Norman Hartnell dress. Few, however, have underlined the choice to wear a tiara that has a long and surprising history. So, it is worth telling the story of the tiara worn by Princess Beatrice, daughter of Prince Andrew, Duke of York and second son of Queen Elizabeth.

La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara
La principessa Beatrice con lo sposo Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, indossa la Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara

The tiara that Beatrice wore is special: suffice it to say that it was in the hair of Queen Elizabeth on the day of her wedding with Philip, Prince of Edinburgh in 1947. It is the Queen Mary Fringe, who is over one hundred years old. The tiara, in fact, was made by the London jeweler Garrard on commission from Queen Mary in 1919. But it has an even older origin because it is made with diamonds of a necklace that Queen Victoria had given to Queen Mary in 1893 on the occasion of his marriage to what would become George V, and then he was the granddaughter of the tenant of Buckingham Palace.

Embed from Getty Images

One step back. The diamond necklace, which became tiara, was originally owned by George III and his wife, Queen Charlotte. Precisely for this reason the tiara is also called as a diadem of George III or Hanover, in the past the noble title of the royal family, which has German origins. But it was a necklace with an exotic shape and, above all, in a kokoshnik style: a word that indicates a traditional headdress of Russian women. The necklace, in fact, was convertible and could also be worn on the hair as a diadem.

Embed from Getty Images

The tiara, therefore, was worn by Queen Mary for her wedding and then by Queen Elizabeth for her wedding with Philip Mountbatten. But with a little drama: while Elizabeth was getting dressed for the ceremony, the mechanism that keeps the shape of the frame of the tiara was blocked. A problem solved, with some anxiety, after the jewel was hurriedly brought to the jeweler’s laboratory. Despite this, the central fringe of the tiara remained slightly tilted, as evidenced by the photos taken on the occasion.

La regina Elisabetta il giorno del suo matrimonio
La regina Elisabetta il giorno del suo matrimonio

The story of the tiara is not over. It was still worn, in fact, by Princess Anne in 1973, on the occasion of her marriage to Mark Phillips. Queen Elizabeth later inherited the tiara in 2020 when Queen Mother died and wore it in a Diamond Jubilee Portrait, an image taken in the Blue Room at Buckingham Palace by Julian Calder for the Governor General of New Zealand in 2011. And now it was Beatrice’s turn. Who will be next to wear the jewel?

La Queen Mary's Fringe Tiara
La Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara







Dorotheum will auction off the Habsburg jewels

At the auction of Dorotheum tiara and brooch of Maria Valeria, Archduchess of Austria ♦ ︎

The charm of ancient nobility is often present in jewelery auctions. Dorotheum knows it well, and in Vienna on November 27 it will sell a diadem and brooch of Maria Valeria, daughter of the Empress Elisabeth. Maria Valeria was the favorite daughter of Elizabeth Amalia Eugenia of Wittelsbach, Duchess of Bavaria who, with her marriage to Francis Joseph, became empress of Austria, apostolic queen of Hungary, queen of Bohemia and Croatia.

Diadema di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria
Diadema di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria

The two precious jewels owned by Maria Valeria are a diadem set with 15 oriental pearls and 25 carat diamonds, and an equally magnificent brooch, so-called corsage: two pieces that amaze not only with their diamonds, but also for the numerous and very rare oriental pearls, then fashionable all over Europe, symbol of beauty, power and influence. The two jewels are considered to be in excellent condition. The estimate ranges from 100,000 to 200,000 euros (for the diadem) and from 60,000 to 100,000 euros (for the brooch).
Spilla corsage di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria
Spilla corsage di Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria

In 1890, when Archduchess Maria Valeria married Archduke Francesco Salvatore of Austria-Tuscany, jeweler A. E. Köchert was a third-generation court and Imperial-Royal Chamber supplier. It was he who executed the brooch around 1890. It was Wilhelm Friedrich Haarstrick, until 1891 authorized signatory and head of the atelier, who designed the diadem.
Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria
Maria Valeria, arciduchessa d’Austria

Elisabetta d'Austria, quadro di Franz Xaver Winterhalter
Elisabetta d’Austria, quadro di Franz Xaver Winterhalter







Chaumet’s tiaras on exhibition




The famous Chaumet tiaras, and other jewels, on display in the Principality of Monaco ♦

La Maison Chaumet, one of the great names in jewelery, from 1780 to today has created over 2000 tiaras. For queens, aristocratic families, or simply for women who want to wear a special jewel and, of course, they are lucky enough to have a partner who gives them a tiara or a diadem. In fact, once tiaras were reserved for princesses and queens, while now they are a jewel that can be worn by all women on special occasions, such as marriage. In the art of tiara, they explain to Chaumet, everything starts with a drawing. Over the years, Chaumet’s tiaras have thus interpreted the style of romanticism, naturalism, Belle Époque and Art Déco. Now the Maison boasts 400,000 archive drawings and a Salon des Diadèmes, a showcase of Chaumet’s historical collections.

Diadema trasformabile con motivo a giglio appartenuto alla famiglia Leuchtenberg, discendenti dell'imperatrice Giuseppina, 1830. Il grande solitario di smeraldo esagonale può essere indossato come una spilla
Diadema trasformabile con motivo a giglio appartenuto alla famiglia Leuchtenberg, discendenti dell’imperatrice Giuseppina, 1830. Il grande solitario di smeraldo esagonale può essere indossato come una spilla

A heritage that has been traveling the world for a couple of years in an exhibition, which now arrives in the Principality of Monaco, after having passed through Beijing and Tokyo. The exhibition is called Chaumet in Majesty, Jewels of Sovereigns since 1780 and is organized at the Grimaldi Forum in Monaco. Who wants to dream, can see up close tiaras exceptional among 250 jewels of sovereigns, some of which exposed for the first time to the public.

Chaumet in Majesty, Jewels of Sovereigns since 1780
from 12 July to 28 August 2019
Grimaldi Forum in Monaco




Aigrette soleil rayonnant, in platino, smeraldo, diamanti. eno formale della tiara, l'aigrette offre comunque un'aria di festa e allunga la silhouette. Grassetto senza ostentazione, un'alternativa alle stelle e alle crescenti popolari della fine del XIX secolo, il Soleil fu introdotto da Chaumet intorno al 1900
Aigrette soleil rayonnant, in platino, smeraldo, diamanti. eno formale della tiara, l’aigrette offre comunque un’aria di festa e allunga la silhouette. Grassetto senza ostentazione, un’alternativa alle stelle e alle crescenti popolari della fine del XIX secolo, il Soleil fu introdotto da Chaumet intorno al 1900
Diadema Fleurs pensée
Diadema Fleurs pensée, circa 1850, oro, argento e diamanti
Diadema Boccioli di rosa, oro bianco, diamanti, perle
Diadema Boccioli di rosa, oro bianco, diamanti, perle
Diadème aux épis de blé (spighe di grano)
Diadème aux épis de blé (spighe di grano)
Collana Bayadère, Chaumet, Parigi, circa 1920, di Joseph Chaumet. Platino, diamanti, zaffiri e perle
Collana Bayadère, Chaumet, Parigi, circa 1920, di Joseph Chaumet. Platino, diamanti, zaffiri e perle
Chaumet, tiara in platino e diamanti
Chaumet, tiara in platino e diamanti
Spilla con diamante centrale a goccia
Spilla con diamante centrale a goccia
Spilla Fuchsia di Chaumet in diamanti fucsia realizzata nel 1840 sotto la direzione di Jean-Baptiste Fossin. Argento su oro con diamanti en tremblant
Spilla Fuchsia di Chaumet in diamanti fucsia realizzata nel 1840 sotto la direzione di Jean-Baptiste Fossin. Argento su oro con diamanti en tremblant
Spilla-aigrette Lune croissante, con diamanti e perle
Spilla-aigrette Lune croissante, con diamanti e perle







Other serpents for Boucheron

//




New jewels from the Serpent de Bohème collection signed by Boucheron ♦ ︎

After turning off the 160 birthday candles Boucheron continues to offer jewelry and high jewelry. The story continues: the French brand founded in 1858 by Frédéric Boucheron, which is now part of the Kering group, does not deny its origins. Boucheron was the first jeweler to open a shop under the arcades of the Palais Royal, the center of Parisian luxury at the time. And he was the first to introduce a certain way of understanding jewelery with his Maison. For example, with one of his most classic collections, Serpent Bohème. The motif of reptile-shaped jewels is actually even older. Serpent Bohème is a collection that is renewed periodically, with the addition of new pieces, gems, original solutions. From 2017, when a updating of the collection was proposed, for example, other innovations were introduced, such as the hair band, in rose gold and diamonds, while the gold of the ring was always worked to reproduce the skin of the snake.

2 malachiti 520 carati Oro giallo
Anello in oro giallo Serpent de Bohème con due malachiti

Also read: Snake, but transparent for Boucheron

On the other hand, Monsieur Boucheron liked adventure: in those days, when travel was a real dangerous, he went to the most distant places to visit the precious stone mines. Starting from the gems he then designed iconic pieces like the Point d’Interrogation necklace, an emblematic piece and an ingenious invention: it was designed without a clip, with a hidden spring system that allows the necklace to curl around the neck like a feather, presented to the public at the Universal Exhibition of Paris in 1889.

point dinterrogation
La collana Point d’interrogation





fascia testa
Fascia per la testa in oro giallo e diamanti

Collana con 23 motivi pave in oro bianco
Collana con 23 elementi in oro bianco e diamanti
Boucheron Serpent Boheme a due pietre motivi S anello a due pietre con granati rodolite in oro rosa
Anello in oro rosa con due granati
16 diamanti tondi 067 carati Oro rosa
Anello in oro rosa con 16 diamanti
4 lapislazzuli pere 33 carati 164 diamanti rotondi 357 carati oro giallo
Bracciale con nappa in oro, quattro lapislazzuli, 164 diamanti
4 granati rodolite 2873 carati 32 diamanti rotondi
Orecchini con quattro granati e 32 diamanti







New jewels in the treasure of Marie-Antoinette





The number of jewels owned by Maria-Antoinette at the auction of Sotheby’s rises to ten ♦ ︎

The possibility of buying a piece of History together with a piece of jewelry is expanded. As we have already written, on November 14th, in Geneva, Sotheby’s sells the jewels that belonged to Marie-Antoinette, the decapitated queen of France with her husband, King Louis XVI, during the French Revolution. They are not only precious jewels, but they bear witness to an exceptional piece of Human History and, therefore, expectations are high. After the presentation in June, however, there are some news: the pieces attributed to the queen have risen to ten.

Sotheby’s, in fact, has revealed that in the sales catalog have been added other pieces belonging to Marie Antoinette, including a pair of earrings with natural pearls and diamonds (estimate between 200,000 and 300,000 dollars).

Orecchini di perle naturali posseduti da Maria Antonietta
Orecchini di perle naturali posseduti da Maria Antonietta

Not only that: a necklace of six-strand pearls has an unaltered closure that was part of the royal collection. The closure of noble origins includes five large and 18 small natural pearls and, originally, it was used for a bracelet of natural pearls with six threads. The necklace was then commissioned by the Bourbon-Parma family and made with cultured pearls. Five other diamond jewels are linked to Marie-Antoinette, like the late 18th century diamond brooch with a yellow diamond. The queen of France had also a double-bow brooch, but the hanging yellow diamond seems to have been added later. They are the descendants of Marie Antoinette, however, who probably made a diamond ring with the portrait of the queen.

If you are fond of antique jewelry with blue blood know that there are also jewels belonging to King Charles X (1757-1836), the last king of France.

Diadema di diamanti appartenuto a Carlo X
Diadema di diamanti appartenuto a Carlo X

For example, it was own by Charles X’s the diamond diadem. The stones came from a badge of the Royal Order of the Holy Spirit, a French chivalric order founded by King Henry III in 1578, which was owned by Charles X, brother-in-law of Marie Antoinette. The diamonds were then transferred to Robert I, Duke of Parma (1848-1907). The tiara was created using precious stones around 1912 for the Archduchess Maria Anna of Austria (1882-1940) by the famous Vienna jeweler Hübner: the flowers on the tiara can be detached and worn separately as brooches.
Another fascinating piece that was added to the jewelry auction is an emblem of the Order of the Golden Fleece belonging to Louis Antoine of Bourbon, duke of Angoulême (1775-1844), who married the daughter of Marie Antoinette, his cousin . The Order of the Golden Fleece has long been considered the most prestigious and exclusive order of chivalry in the world. Louis Antoine received the badge following his participation in the Spanish expedition of 1823. Under a large white diamond, the badge shows the traditional French royal symbol, the orifiamma, represented by a central sapphire and surrounded by flames composed of rubies. Federico Graglia





Anello con ritratto di Maria Antonietta
Anello con ritratto di Maria Antonietta

Collana di perle: il fermaglio era di un bracciale della regina di Francia
Collana di perle: il fermaglio era di un bracciale della regina di Francia
Orecchini con diamanti precedentemente nella collezione di Marie-Thérèse de Savoie, Duchessa di Parma
Orecchini con diamanti precedentemente nella collezione di Marie-Thérèse de Savoie, Duchessa di Parma
Collana con perle che erano originariamente infilate in una lunga collana a tre fili e appartenenti alla regina Maria Antonietta
Collana con perle che erano originariamente infilate in una lunga collana a tre fili e appartenenti alla regina Maria Antonietta
Spilla per capelli con rubino di Bachruch, regalata dall'arciduca Frédéric d'Austria (1856-1936) a sua figlia, l'arciduchessa Maria Anna d'Austria, la principessa Elie de Bourbon-Parme (1882-1940) in occasione della nascita di suo figlio, Charles, nel 1905
Spilla per capelli con rubino di Bachruch, regalata dall’arciduca Frédéric d’Austria (1856-1936) a sua figlia, l’arciduchessa Maria Anna d’Austria, la principessa Elie de Bourbon-Parme (1882-1940) in occasione della nascita di suo figlio, Charles, nel 1905
Spilla a doppio nastro con diamanti bianchi appartenuto alla regina di Francia. Successivamente arricchita con il diamante giallo
Spilla a doppio nastro con diamanti bianchi appartenuto alla regina di Francia. Successivamente arricchita con il diamante giallo

Spilla del Toson d'Oro
Spilla del Toson d’Oro

Tiara di diamanti donata dall'imperatore Francesco Giuseppe a sua nipote, arciduchessa Maria Anna d'Austria
Tiara di diamanti donata dall’imperatore Francesco Giuseppe a sua nipote, arciduchessa Maria Anna d’Austria in occasione del matrimonio

Pendente con diamanti e perla naturale di eccezionali dimensioni (26 x 18 millimetri) appartenuto alla regina Maria Antonietta
Pendente con diamanti e perla naturale di eccezionali dimensioni (26 x 18 millimetri) appartenuto alla regina Maria Antonietta

Spilla con pendente in oro giallo e diamanti ricevuta dalla principessa Maria Pia Borbone-Due Sicilie in occasione del suo matrimonio con Roberto I
Spilla con pendente in oro giallo e diamanti ricevuta dalla principessa Maria Pia Borbone-Due Sicilie in occasione del suo matrimonio con Roberto I







A marriage with Dani

It seems fine jewelry, but at affordable price: the Dani’s formula also extends to jewelry for the bride.
Let’s face it: how many are ready to wear a jewel that looks like something more valuable? Many. Although, perhaps, not all are willing to admit it. And yet, wear a fake solitaire, which looks like a real diamond ring, allows you to show off a precious jewel-looking, but also not to take risks, for example are lost or, worse, to have a theft. Are the words that inspired the launch in 2014 at Baselworld of Dani, a brand launched by Daniel K. The jewelry offered by this brand have the appearance of pieces very valuable, but they are made of silver and simulated diamonds, with the addition of spinel generated in the laboratory, corundum, and beryl, all hand-cut, polished and mounted with fine jewelry techniques. This idea, bijoux of ​​the price but jewlery to look, with the appearance of pieces of high-end, it seems to have made inroads. So much so, that the brand (the jewelry you can buy online) has expanded the offer, adding a line dedicated to the bride, with tiaras, necklaces and rings to wear on your wedding day.
Dani was launched by Daniel Koren, son of a merchant of second-generation diamond, which has already launched its own brand of fine jewelry, Daniel K, in New York. Cosimo Muzzano

Anello in argento, rodiato, diamante simulato
Anello in argento, rodiato, diamante simulato
Orecchini in argento con pietre sintetiche
Orecchini in argento con pietre sintetiche
Orecchini in argento rodiato con pietre sintetiche colorate
Orecchini in argento rodiato con pietre sintetiche colorate
Orecchini in argento rodiato, con diamanti sintetici a goccia
Orecchini in argento rodiato, con diamanti sintetici a goccia
Orecchini in argento rodiato, con cristalli con taglio brillante, marquise, pera
Orecchini in argento rodiato, con cristalli con taglio brillante, marquise, pera
Collana Bohemian in argento con cristalli colorati
Collana Bohemian in argento con cristalli colorati
Orecchini argento e diamanti simulati a taglio smeraldo
Orecchini argento e diamanti simulati a taglio smeraldo

(Italiano) Diademi al polso con Cruciani C

Sorry, this entry is only available in Italian. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.

Cruciani C, brand famoso per i suoi braccialetti in tessuto macramé, propone Diadema, bracciali con dettagli in argento e 43 cristalli Swarovski.

Un diadema di solito si indossa sui capelli, ma ore ce n’è anche uno che si infila al braccio. Si tratta, infatti, della serie di bijoux firmati Cruciani C, azienda famosa per i suoi lacci colorati in macramé. La collezione Diadema (parola che in greco significa semplicemente qualcosa che cinge), come al solito offre una ampia varietà di sette colori, dal grigio perla alla tonalità  cammello, da rosa antico a nero. Il bracciale è sempre realizzato in tessuto macramé, ma in corrispondenza dei nodi si trovano 43 cristalli Swarovski, a cui si aggiungono piccoli elementi in argento. Il bracciale è prodotto in una serie limitata di pezzi ed è in vendita a 79 euro. Lavinia Andorno

Bracciale Diadema Blunavy. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema Blunavy. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema Grigio perla. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema Grigio perla. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema acciaio. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema acciaio. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema cammello. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema cammello. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema cipria. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema cipria. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema nero. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema nero. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema rosa antico. Prezzo: 79 euro
Bracciale Diadema rosa antico. Prezzo: 79 euro

Crowned by George Wittels

The crowns by George Wittels, which are coveted by beauty queens.
There’s jewelry and jewelry. There is, for example, also who is specialized in crowns for Miss. The king which crowning the queens of beauty pageants is an Austrian who moved to Venezuela when he was eight. His name is George Wittels and each November 3rd in his jewelry store commemorates the birth of Benvenuto Cellini, master of all the goldsmiths in the world. George Wittels, however, is goldsmith by chance. He studied engineering, but then he also spent some time in New York, where he attended the courses of the GIA. Become an expert gemologist, he returned to Venezuela, where the family had a cloth shop in Maracaibo. Again by chance, in 1999 he was contacted to create a jewel for a contestant to Miss Venezuela, who later won. From that moment he began to create the crowns for the queens of the competition and, given the success, he was called to carry tiaras and crowns for other events in South America, but also in the US and Europe, for example in Latvia or Slovakia. The crowns are large, baroque, twisted, but luckily over the years are more slight. The poor queens 20 years ago wore on his head a glittering blaze from 1 kilogram and a half. Today, the weight is less, because next to George Wittels stones uses Swarovski crystals, which replace in particular the diamonds. Lavinia Andorno

Gioielli firmati George Wittels
Gioielli firmati George Wittels

Corona per Nuestra Beleza Latina 2016
Corona per Nuestra Beleza Latina 2016
Corona per Miss Venezuela
Corona per Miss Venezuela con turchesi
Corona per Miss Venezuela 2015, con smeraldi, rubini e lapislazzuli
Corona per Miss Venezuela 2015, con smeraldi, rubini e lapislazzuli
George Wittels
George Wittels
Miss Venezuela 2015
Miss Venezuela 2015
Corona per Miss Perla de Panama
Corona per Miss Perla de Panama
Vanessa Goncalves incoronata
Vanessa Goncalves incoronata
Orecchini di George Wittels per Vanezza Goncalves, Miss Venezuela 2010
Orecchini di George Wittels per Vanezza Goncalves, Miss Venezuela 2010
Corona per Miss Venezuela
Corona per Miss Venezuela

Chaumet seen by Chaumet

It is baptized Musée éphémère, that means museum for a little time, but in this case the adjective means temporary because the brand new museum of Chaumet, inaugurated with an exhibition on the theme nature, ephemeral has nothing. Indeed, it can count on a solid tradition started in 1780 with the founder, Marie-Etienne Nitot, who was the official supplier to Napoleon and the jeweler of the European aristocracy. A route that for centuries has produced a collection of extraordinary pieces, 55000 archive drawings, 500,000 photographs taken from the end 800 to the present day and 500 prototypes of tiaras made of nickel silver, an alloy of copper, zinc and nickel. The idea is just to tell a story little known through exhibitions that connect the past with the present.

For six months

For example, for the next six months jewelry lovers will have a unique opportunity to find out, on the ground floor of an 18th century building in the Place Vendome, place icon of Parisian luxury, home of the brand that is part of the LVMH group, style unmistakable: Promenade Bucolique is the name of the exhibition on his view of nature, represented by particular reasons of leaves, flowers and insects that are found in the fields and woods. In short, nothing grew. Among the 15 historical pieces, accompanied by original drawings, photographs in black and white and works of art, there is also the famous tiara created in 1811 for the Empress Marie Louise of Austria, Napoleon’s young bride. A tiara from the neoclassical design, consisting of 150 items representing the ears of corn circle on a frame of silver with 60 carats of diamonds. The effect is very light, as if the ears of corn were moved by the wind, and is important because a model has been revised several times by the jeweler in tiaras made during the Belle Epoque and pins produced after World War II.

Next to the wheat, even taken with sheaves miniature, there are other reasons: hawthorn, blades of grass, leaves of acanthus and ivy, typical subject of Romanticism and expression of feelings such as loyalty and attachment, of course. The connection to the present day is a limited set of jewelry that takes the style 1811 in a modern way, where the contrast between the shiny gold and brushed what gives a hyper-realistic, but not only for the occasion were designed from the bees, the main symbol of the empire (Napoleonic) from the body made of colored stones with peridots, mandarin garnets, opals, tourmalines, topaz and yellow sapphires, and wings in white and yellow gold, a delicate diamond-studded tunnel. The exhibition, however, is also a pretext for Chaumet to devote himself again to a theme abandoned in the 70 ‘. In the video you can see his new creations.

Promenade Bucolique

Until 30 January 2016
The musée Ephémère de Chaumet, 12 place Vendôme, Paris
From Monday to Saturday from 10:30 to 19

Chaumet, la tiara disegnata per l'imperatrice Maria Luisa nel 1811
Chaumet, la tiara disegnata per l’imperatrice Maria Luisa nel 1811
Chaumet, diadema con motivi a foglia del 1907
Chaumet, diadema con motivi a foglia del 1907
Chaumet, orecchini collezione Jardins  in oro giallo, diamanti peridoto e franto mandarino
Chaumet, orecchini collezione Jardins in oro giallo, diamanti peridoto e franto mandarino
Chaumet, disegno del 1890 di un davanti de corsage con foglie di alloro e una farfalla
Chaumet, disegno del 1890 di un davanti de corsage con foglie di alloro e una farfalla
Chaumet, spilla a forma di spiga in oro giallo lucido e satinato con diamanti taglio  brillante
Chaumet, spilla a forma di spiga in oro giallo lucido e satinato con diamanti taglio brillante