Forget the classic jewels with a stone set, held in place by a metal band, in gold, silver or steel. There is also an alternative to this ancient technique: it is that of Polly Wales, a designer who founded his Maison in London in 2010. Polly Wales, in fact, she has decided to change her method: the stones have literally sunk in gold of rings or pendants. His technique is called Cast-Not-Set.
The latest news is the Wylie Beasts collection, a series of new animal jewels designed in collaboration with her partner, James Firman. Owls, monkeys and even mice are transformed into gold rings with the Maison’s signature setting, with precious and colored stones.
From London to Los Angeles, where Polly Wales currently works, the style has not changed: precious stones are always inserted directly into the molten gold, with the result of a vaguely irregular shape. But, although the gems seem to be inserted randomly, the jewels are made with a sophisticated craftsmanship.
In the metal the designer inserts both diamonds of all colors and semi-precious stones, such as tourmaline. The aesthetic effect is unique: thanks to this setting technique, Polly Wales jewels stand out clearly from those of other jewelers.