The decline (finally) of the pandemic has rekindled the engines of jewelry, but also the pleasure of shopping for Magnificent Jewels like those that Sotheby’s is selling in New York on June 9th. The auction also has a title: The Roaring Twenties 2.0. The sale includes a selection of 94 lots, including a set of white and colored diamonds. In addition to the high prices achieved for colored gems and designer pieces in Geneva earlier this month, the sale is further distinguished by exceptional Kashmir and Ceylon sapphires, Colombian emeralds and Burmese rubies set in iconic designs signed by the most prestigious houses. Immediately after the sale of Magnificent Jewels, online bids will open for the one-lot auction of a large 50.03 carat G-color round diamond, offered without reserve.
The pieces for sale will be on display at Sotheby’s galleries on York Avenue from 4 to 8 June as part of Sotheby’s Luxury Week, a series of nine auctions spanning the fastest growing categories in the luxury sphere. The highlight of the sale is a Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond crafted by London-based Mayfair high jewelery, Glenn Spiro. The gem is 73.11 carats, and is named The Sienna Star, with the highest color rating for a yellow diamond from the Gemological Institute of America. The gem also represents one of the largest Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds ever auctioned. The absolute scarcity of fine yellow diamonds exceeding 50 carats makes the appearance at auction of this stone a pivotal moment in the world of precious gems and “an extraordinary object in the extraordinary world of precious stones” according to Gia. The Sienna Star is offered for sale with an estimate of $ 3 million.
At the June auction it is the protagonist of a distinguished private collection that boasts six breathtaking jewels, estimated in total at over 13 million dollars: the proceeds will go to a charitable foundation. Above all, an impressive Colombian emerald and diamond necklace by Harry Winston, which combines an elegant and delicate design with exceptional stones and exquisite workmanship (estimate 1.5-2.5 million dollars).
Complementing this is a 13.02-carat Burmese ruby ring, mounted by Carvin French (estimate 1-2 million) and a spectacular necklace by Andrew Clunn, with 28 graduated oval-shaped diamonds totaling over 168 carats ( estimate 2-3 million). The collection is further completed by a 23.59 carat D Color, Internally Flawless, Type IIa diamond ring (estimate 1.8-2.8 million) and a pair of D Color diamond pendants, weighing 27.01. and 29.84 carats and estimated at 1-1.5 million and 1.2-1.8 million, respectively.
Van Cleef & Arpels show
From the great French Maison, the New York auction offers a necklace-bracelet combination in rose gold, pink sapphire and Zip Antique Udaipur diamonds. The zip applied to jewels was, as is known, an idea of the Duchess of Windsor in the 1930s, but the first of the now iconic Zip models by Van Cleef & Arpels is from 1950. The zip transforms a functional object into a technically brilliant jewel and glamorous that can be worn open like a necklace or closed like a bracelet. Very few examples were made during this period, further cementing the design as one of the most coveted jewelry in the world. More recently, Van Cleef & Arpels has produced a limited number of Zips: the Antique Udaipur model is among the most elegant and substantial.
Among the many innovations by Van Cleef & Arpels, their most celebrated is undoubtedly the mystery setting, an invisible embedding system. Patented in 1933, the technique gave rise to some of the most spectacular jewels of the 20th century, such as the Duchess of Windsor’s holly leaf brooch (1936) and Princess Faiza of Egypt’s strikingly naturalistic peony clip. The meticulous process takes approximately 90 minutes per gemstone, each fluted so that it can be run on a rail system, eliminating the need for spikes that would otherwise interrupt the passage of light. After hundreds, even thousands, of hours of work, a jewel of extraordinary fluidity is created. With just a handful of pieces created each year, Van Cleef’s mystery settings are the pinnacle of fine jewelry and a requirement for anyone wishing to have the full canon of jewelry design.
Cartier Art Déco
The June sale features exceptional jewelry from the 1920s and 1930s, Cartier’s most sought-after period. Among the lots in the catalog are two emeralds, pearls and diamonds clasps, a jabot brooch in diamonds and onyx, a jabot brooch with emerald and diamonds with jardinière motif and a diamond bracelet, with Old European diamonds, single cut and Emerald.