He calls himself a businessman lover of beauty: Roberto Coin has arrived at jewelry for a hobby, having achieved success hotel business as a partner and manager of the Duke Of Richmond Hotel in Guernsey an island in English Channel, driven by the fascination exerted by objects worn by his guests, sophisticated and international. “When I decided to change careers I chose the jewelery, because it seemed more interesting than the fashion. And especially because it was the area most suitable to realize my idea: to create a strong brand, but at the same time easy to interpret in a personal way, to allow every woman to feel different from others. I tried to dress them all unequal, “says Coin gioiellis.com. A female universe that has brought luck to the entrepreneur, leader of a group founded in 1996 and now present in 62 countries, in over a thousand stores and 20 brand around the world. Women like to Coin also as collaborators: 85% of those who work with him is a woman and this already before venturing into jewelry. In short, a super precursor of “pink quotas.” So it is not surprising that one of the new collections presented at the beginning of 2015 is dedicated to Tanaquilla, wife of the fifth king of Rome Tarquinio Prisco and his political adviser: a tribute to the importance of the historical figure following the refined the Etruscan technique of gold processing.
Question. Recently you have won the Palladio Awards, which rewards Pois Moi as the best collection of Italian jewelry in the world. Feels to repeat this success?
Answer. Actually collections such as Pois and Moi, a happy synthesis of modernity and creativity, with its shape that inspired the television screens of the fifties and the detail of polka dots convex hand-finished, it comes once every five years. But the market also requires other products. Maybe more mass or more classic, and I fit myself adding that touch of freshness that makes them attractive to both girls and ladies. Of course, now the road is certainly easier, provided you do not do not make the mistake of settling and thinking you have arrived and have nothing more to learn.
D. And how do you avoid this error?
A.With the research: the talent is critical, but innovation brings solidity. For example, Primavera collection, which have sold more than 18 thousand pieces, is the result of an investment in technology to build a machine that produces bracelets flexible and lightweight, but without closing resistant, at an attractive price. The result is an object industrialized inimitable for quality and cost from any manufacturer, even in Asia.
D. Now what are the highlights?
A.There is a new version of Black Jade, with black jade and green agate set on gold and diamonds, a collection that has been a worldwide success as well as Garden the line with stones and Art Deco rings with a strong impact. Two absolute novelty from the “stupid free” closing that means it is easy to open, are Ensemble, bracelets made with many threads put together, hence the name, and Princess, that the shape slightly rounded at the corners is similar to Pois Moi, but is engraved in surface in such a wayto give a striped effect. And like Pois Moi does not revolve around the wrist so diamonds on the top are always on sight.
D. Each year the brand has about 500 new models. In such a great variety there is one that is more?
A. More than a model there is a theme to which I am particularly fond of, the one animal. Each season I introduce a capsule collection of unique pieces and this time I drew a hawk, playing on contrasts of colors of the materials to give depth to the eye of the animal and recover the boldness in its eyes. I’m very proud of it.
D. Roberto Coin is known throughout the world, the United States is one of the first brand. Yet not forget the origins and is present at the Vicenza Fair?
A. In theory I should not do the fairs, because I always thought that a company like mine should be a little ‘most exclusive and offer better service to customers. In practice, more time and resources to devote to them. But about 45 small Italian are my suppliers, and I think it is right to do system. Basically when I started almost twenty years ago, the most important exhibition was in Milan and then went to Basel. What happened in the meantime? Because we lost a record and as the route is reversed? The answer is simple: you have to create a system and I’m here for this.
D. In Basel do you present what?
R. With 500 different jewelry there is no risk of running out of topics. But I can anticipate that I created a variation on the theme of Pois Moi whose success is most certain. Something very gritty, which required a great deal of study design, and the result is really interesting.