High jewelry in Paris: Chaumet’s Envol collection features wings as its motif.
High jewelry takes flight. Chaumet takes flight with its Envol collection, inspired by the shape of wings. The collection was presented at the Paris Haute Couture show. The jewels are a reference to the history of the French fashion house: the Envol Cloud Feather collection is inspired by the translucent blue enamel wings from the collection of Gertrude Payne Whitney, heiress to the wealthy Vanderbilt family, an American business empire between the late 19th and early 20th centuries. She was a sculptor, a student of Auguste Rodin, and a founding patron of the Whitney Museum of American Art. In 1910, Gertrude purchased a pair of wings in London decorated with thousands of diamonds and translucent enamel, which could be attached to a base and worn like a crown. Today, it is one of the most coveted pieces in the Chaumet collection.
But its origins lie in Empress Josephine’s passion for ornithology, a passion she shared with Marie-Étienne Nitot, founder of Chaumet. An example of how the Maison interprets wings is the convertible tiara, a masterpiece of goldsmithing virtuosity. Over 850 hours of work were required to create this jewel. The tiara, featuring a 3.92-carat Madagascar sapphire, diamonds, and blue enamel, can be worn traditionally, or simplified, with just the sapphire at its center. The collection also includes the convertible necklace, which required over 650 hours of work. This piece also features a 10.96-carat cushion-cut Madagascar sapphire and a striking shade of blue achieved thanks to Grand Feu enamel. The convertible parts of the necklace also transform into a brooch, with two hidden clasps securing the sapphire.
Chaumet also offers two cocktail rings that can be worn in different ways. The first spherical ring comes in four different shapes. Under a removable case are two rings that can be worn separately: one is decorated with a wing motif in grand feu enamel and pavé diamonds, while the other features a 6.28-carat cushion-cut Ceylon sapphire set in a pavé diamond band.
