da sapere, Design — November 9, 2018 at 5:00 am

How to choose a vintage jewel





How to choose a vintage jewel or antique? This quick guide helps you how to find the one that suits you.

Do you like vintage jewelry? Or do you prefer the antique? But are you sure that they are not simply jewels used? It is not easy to distinguish, but you need to avoid being fooled by little-corrected sellers. Or, more simply, to get exactly the vintage jewelry or antique that you want. In fact, the old terms, vintage and antique are often wrongly used and only serve to cloud the issue. There are, then, the English words as heritage or estate and even more complicate the choice.

Spilla per cappello con diamanti di Oscar Massin, seconda metà dell'Ottocento
Spilla per cappello con diamanti di Oscar Massin, seconda metà dell’Ottocento

1 Locate the style

To properly choose a vintage jewel or antique, you must start from a simple consideration: all that is not new is been used. But, of course, a 200 years old ring has a value other than a jewel that is ten years old. The first step is, therefore, define what age is a gem. If you are not expert in jewelry history, you can search through the internet (maybe see gioiellis.com) of the reference points or the jewels that look like what you want to buy. In this way, one can determine the age of the jewel to an accuracy of 10-20 years. It is already a good result. For example, two styles that have influenced for a long time the world of jewelry are the Art Nouveau, which in Italy is also called Liberty (1900-1925) and the Art Deco (about 1925-1940). Even the sites of auction houses such as Sotheby’s or Christie’s can help you because they keep images of jewelry that have a certain date.

Bracciale e anello con granati, fine Ottocento
Bracciale e anello con granati, fine Ottocento

2 Antique Fakes

Often they find jewelry made now, but inspired by the past and are sold in an ambiguous way as if they were ancient. The Art Deco style, for example, is back in fashion for some years and many jewelers have started to produce jewelry in this style. And an unreliable dealer might try to sell a new cameo, like an antique, like a vintage jewel, when in fact it is only a reproduction of an antique piece. Fortunately, find out if a jewel has a story is usually quite simple: just look the ring, necklace o bracelet very carefully, perhaps by using a magnifying glass or simple glasses. A jewel that has many years has almost certainly of little marks on the metal, sometimes even scratches on the stones, which indicate its use.

Collana con opale nero e gemme degli anni Quaranta, collezione Lineberry, venduta da Sotheby's
Collana con opale nero e gemme degli anni Quaranta, collezione Lineberry, venduta da Sotheby’s

3 Second hand

A used jewel isn’t sure an old, antique or vintage piece: simply was used before. Maybe very little: there are examples of the jewels not very used. This is the case, for example, of rings received as a gift but which have never been worn because they do not like, or (it happens) of engagement rings which return to the jeweler after which the torque ratio is broken. Of course, in this case, it is not a vintage jewel, but contemporary.

Anello con diamante rosa e diamanti bianchi, oro ossidato per donare un aspetto vintage
Anello con diamante rosa e diamanti bianchi, oro ossidato per donare un aspetto vintage

4 Vintage jewelry

A piece of jewelry is vintage if is at least 20-30 years. In practice, if a jewel was built before 1980 it can be considered vintage. Vintage is a term used in English and French to indicate the same thing. But this word is also a generic definition: can be defined in this way also a jewel in Art Deco style of the thirties, though, of course, is more appropriate to define precisely the period in which the piece was made. So if the seller simply defines as vintage and antique jewel, turn on your antennas and observe better.

Bracciale vintage con bachelite, oro, citrini
Bracciale vintage con bachelite, oro, citrini

5 Ancient Jewels

When you can define an ancient jewel? There is no precise date, however, is generally considered as an ancient jewel that is over a hundred years. Of course, to define how old a gem you need some evidence, which lays down the date on which it was created. Attention to defining “old style”, which simply means that this jewel is an imitation. A jewel of the Belle Epoque has not necessarily been made in the nineteenth century, but it may indicate that reproduces the style.





Pendente Art Deco firmato Janesich, del 1925, con smeraldo, diamanti e onice. Venduto per 245mila dollari
Pendente Art Deco firmato Janesich, del 1925, con smeraldo, diamanti e onice. Venduto per 245mila dollari

Anello Art Deco con rubino e diamanti, circa 1930. Prezzo: 10.500 sterline
Anello Art Deco con rubino e diamanti, circa 1930. Prezzo: 10.500 sterline
Spilla di TIffany, in platino, diamanti, corallo e onice
Spilla di TIffany, in platino, diamanti, corallo e onice Art Deco
Spilla-anello Art Deco con diamanti e zaffiri. Stima: 10.000 dollari
Spilla-anello Art Deco con diamanti e zaffiri
Pendente Art Nouveau in oro, smalto e brillanti
Pendente Art Nouveau in oro, smalto e brillanti
Anello Art Deco in oro e smalto del laboratorio di René Lalique. Circa 1900
Anello Art Deco in oro e smalto del laboratorio di René Lalique. Circa 1900
Orecchini a goccia vintage con diamanti. Prezzo; 11.000 dollari
Orecchini a goccia vintage con diamanti da Doyle & Doyle. Prezzo; 11.000 dollari

Bracciale in oro 18 carati e smalto
Vintage: bracciale in oro 18 carati e smalto di Jean-Schlumberger







2 Comments

  1. Circa 1900 sarà art nouveau

    • Caro Yali Ma, non sappiamo a che cosa ti riferisci, ma non tutto (gioielli, quadri, sculture) datato 1900 è art nouveau, cioè liberty in Italia. Dipende dallo stile…

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