Hemmerle’s jewels: the refined and inimitable inventions of the Munich jeweler ♦
In Germany it is an institution. In the United States a celebrity. In the world Hemmerle, founded in 1893, is known as one of the most avant-garde high jewelry names, because with a centuries-old history that began in 1893 in Munich, it innovated the nineteenth-century tradition of Berlin iron jewelry by setting a diamond in a setting of the same metal. It was 1995 and since then Stefan Hemmerle has continued to use courageously brass, copper, steel and wood as a background for precious stones, often rare and always combined in an unusual way. But, according to legend, the idea was born thanks to a client who detested the too flashy gems and wore early 19th century Berlin iron jewelry.
Today it is Christian Hemmerle who runs the company, together with his wife Yasmin and parents Stefan and Sylveli. The creative approach is ingenious: to treat common materials and precious stones, iron, aluminum, pebbles and moonstones with equal dignity, as well as diamonds and rubies. The result is a mix of rigorous opulence, of severe sensuality to the rhythm of contrasts between colors and surfaces, of opaque and glossy finishes, of geometry and dynamism. And of asymmetries in the nuances.
All this without the jaws or points that support the stones being visible. In short, a good dose of technique, which the Hemmerle attribute to an entirely German engineering attitude, but it is not seen. What you notice instead is a certain realism, but of design. The Maison uses techniques from the past, such as the knitting of stones cut in the round on silk, together with innovative systems (for jewelry), such as anodizing aluminum to create new colors.