zaffiri

The crown jewels of Holland

Even the royals of Holland can boast a good number of important jewels. Here are what are ♦

Years ago, Maxima from the Netherlands was included among the 100 most influential people in the world by Time magazine for her social commitment. And she really seems like a lucky woman: she married a prince, she became queen, after Beatrice of Holland abdicated in favor of her son Willem-Alexander in 2013. Maxima Zorreguieta Cerruti, born in Argentina, also had access to one of the richest jewelery collections in Europe. It is a heritage accumulated over the centuries and kept intact thanks to a brilliant solution: that of bringing together the most important pieces in a foundation. And if the female members of the family can use them based on their dynastic role, some of these very precious jewels are reserved exclusively for the reigning queen or consort. Just like Queen Máxima, who one year after her coronation demonstrated great skill in modifying and wearing them. Because these are tiaras that can be dismantled and reassembled like necklaces and bracelets and vice versa. Here’s how, starting from the diamond-sapphire tiara worn on the day of the coronation.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara e gli orecchini della parure di zaffiri
Maxima of Holland with the tiara and earrings of the sapphire set

Sapphire Parure. Made in 1881 for Queen Emma, the tiara, which is part of the Sapphire Parure, has 655 South African round brilliant cut diamonds with a total of 242 carat and 33 sapphires of Cashmere 155 carats. One cushion cut sapphire surrounded by two smaller sapphires and five diamonds on each side is the central element, that can also be worn separately as a brooch. To make it lighter than the new queen has eliminates the three diamonds set in the shape of lilies on the top and replaces them with a single large diamond. The choker of this parure was worn as a tiara adding on top five elements each constituted by one central sapphire surrounded by diamonds in a diamond-shaped set.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la collana della parure di zaffiri indossata come tiara
Maxima of Holland with the sapphire set necklace worn as a tiara

Diamond tiara .It’s a Queen Emma wedding gift from the in 1879, and it was originally topped by three star of diamonds 12-pointed. Now it is composed of three central diamonds that can be replaced by rubies.

Dettaglio della tiara con 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Detail of the tiara with 34 rose-cut diamonds

Rose-cut diamond tiara Tiara formed by a row of 34 large diamonds embedded on the plaque of platinum (chaton) a very popular fashion in the mid-nineteenth century, which can be used as a tiara or necklace.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of 34 rose-cut diamonds

Tiara of antiques pearls Belonged to the Grand Duchess Ana Pavlovna of Russia, wife of William II of the Netherlands, is made up of diamonds and seven pear-shaped pearls that appears to date back to 1600.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara delle perle antiche
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of ancient pearls

Tiara of daisies Transformed several times, initially had on top five pearls round each surrounded by ten diamonds brilliant cut, in order to form a daisy, in fact. In 2002, in lieu of flowers the stars were included handed down by Queen Emma, the second wife of William III. The star-shaped jewelry were popular in the late nineteenth century, and it was Sissi Empress Elisabeth of Austria to bring it to its success using them as barrettes in her hair.

La tiara delle margherite
The daisy tiara

Tiara Mellerio is part of a parure consisting of a necklace, a bracelet and a brooch with rubies and diamonds in large quantities: 385 gems in the tiara, necklace in 425 and 135 in the cuff.

La tiara Mellerio con bracciali e orecchini
The Mellerio tiara with bracelets and earrings

Wurttenberg Tiara is a tiara with an intricate design of diamonds and pearls forming swirls and lilies, surmounted by two rows of pearl teardrop-shaped, six at the bottom and five in the top, both of which are removable and are therefore four possible versions : with or without beads, with the first or second row. It has always been the favorite of the former Queen Beatrix, who since her wedding day worn it in all official occasions.

Dettaglio della tiara Wurttenberg
Detail of the Wurttenberg tiara
Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di tre diamanti centrali sostituibili con i rubini
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of three central diamonds replaceable with rubies
Dettaglio della tiara delle margherite-stelle
Detail of the daisy-star tiara
La tiara dele perle antiche senza perle
The antique pearl tiara without pearls

All about sapphires 

Things to know about the sapphire, one of the most beloved precious gems, as well as stone of the month of September ♦

Sapphires have always been associated with romance and royalty. No coincidence that one of the most famous is the St. Edward’s Sapphire, which dates back to the 11th century and is set on the Imperial State Crown, one of United Kingdom crown jewels, while a more current example is the engagement ring with a sapphire 18-carat donated by Prince Charles to Lady Diana Spencer, spent a generation later by his son William to Kate Middleton.

Anello a fascia in oro bianco 18 carati, pavé di diamanti e zaffiro ovale
Band ring in 18k white gold, pavé diamonds and oval sapphire

Natural sapphires are precious stones widely used in jewelry. But there are not only natural stones: increasingly often are in use sapphires created in the laboratory, even for industrial or decorative purposes. Sapphire is a very hard stone: it reaches 9 on the Mohs scale. This stone is, therefore, the third hardest mineral in the world, after the diamond that reaches 10 and moissanite at 9.5). This is why sapphires are also used as optical components, high-resistance glasses, wristwatches, very thin electronic wafers, such as insulating substrates in electronics, integrated circuits and blue LEDs.

Anello con zaffiro del Madagascar, oro, diamanti
Tamara Comolli, ring with Madagascar sapphire, gold, diamonds

This type of stone from a gemmological point of view is a corundum (if it is red would be a ruby). Range color is from very pale blue to deep indigo, and the most appreciated is cornflower blue, not too pastel and not too navy blue. But the sapphire has a range of natural colors, gray, yellow, pale pink, orange, green, purple and brown: they are classified fancy, and some of these are very rare, for example, Padparadscha (in Sinhala means lotus flower ), of an intense orange-pink. The classic areas sapphires mines are Ceylon, Burma (Mogok), Madagascar and, to a less spread, Cambodia (Pailin), China, Kenya, Laos, Nigeria, Tanzania, Thailand, United States (Montana) and Vietnam . Until seventies Australia covering 70% of world production but the quality was not rewarded by the market because these gems were too dark or too green.

Anello con zaffiro di 25 carati su titanio. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with 25 carat blue sapphire on titanium by Ena Iro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

How to choose: according to Gia (Gemological Institute of America) a sapphire has generally a more affordable price than a ruby, an emerald or a diamond because are less rare. The best quality is the one that has no inclusions visible from a distance of 15 cm must by naked eye. But there are always exceptions: some inclusions, microscopic and called flower, milk or silk, can give an almost velvety appearance, which accentuates the beauty and consequently the value. One must also take into account star variety: needle-like inclusions of rutile depicting a star on the surface of the gem, which are most noticeable thanks to a good cut, and appear as six or 12 spokes evenly spaced and straight.

Un anello con zaffiro Padparadscha, simile a quello della principessa Eugenia
A Padparadscha sapphire ring, similar to Princess Eugenie’s

Cuts: the most common ones are oval and cushion, but under 1 carat can be found easily even brilliant cut sapphires, emerald and princess. But before you choose is essential to examine the stone under different lighting remembering that blue sapphires take a better look under a fluorescent light, while rubies prefer a light bulb.

Anello Sinopé in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiro e tanzaniti
Cartier, Sinopé ring in white gold, diamonds, a 5.03-carat shaped Ceylon sapphire and lapis lazuli
Anello con zaffiro Art Déco
Art Deco ring with sapphire
L'anello di fidanzamento di Kate Middleton
Kate Middleton’s blue sapphire engagement ring
Anello con zaffiro rosa ovale e diamanti. Prezzo: 56.000 dollari
Ring with oval pink sapphire and diamonds
Anello Serpente, con zaffiri invisible setting e zaffiro ovale
Snake ring, with invisible setting sapphires and oval cut sapphire

Under an ancient sea with Chiara Passoni





The jewels of Chiara Passoni, precious stones and ancient teeth of the prehistoric shark ♦ ︎

Now the jewels of the sea have more jewels. But they are not colored anemones, dolphins that jump on the waves or corals that empurple exotic atolls. The new jewels of the sea or, better, dedicated to the oceans, are those of Chiara Passoni. They are not, however, simple jewels inspired by the kingdom of Neptune. Because Chiara Passoni has a symbiotic relationship with the sea: probably, if she could, she would live in a shell like the Botticelli’s Venus. For years the Milanese designer has sailed the seas all over the world. Over and under. On large and small boats and as divers, deep in the seas. And in her network has collected an absolute passion for the marine world as well as, more generally, for the natural balance. This harmony has been translated into his jewels.

Her Jurassic capsule collection goes even further: it embraces nature in an ultramillenary time frame, indeed, prehistoric.

La sua Jurassic capsule collection va anche oltre: abbraccia la natura in un arco temporale ultramillenario, anzi, preistorico.

Anello Africa Queen collection
Anello Africa Queen collection

The jewels, in fact, are made using fossil teeth of megalodon, the great ancestor of the shark. Fossil teeth that are unique pieces, combined with sapphires and diamonds, gold and silver. The designer also emphasizes that the words “Respect Your Nature” are engraved on every jewel. In all there are 12 pieces, from the necklace to the bracelet, with diamonds and shades of sapphires. The jewels are declined in different shades: from blue to pink to black. Each piece has a (very long) history and is different from the others: from the abyss to the jewelry of today, it is a journey lasting millions of years.

Anello con rubini cabochon e diamanti
Anello con rubini cabochon e diamanti
Bracciale Kundalini in legno e diamanti
Bracciale Kundalini in legno e diamanti
Dente fossile Megalodon, uno squalo preistorico estinto 5 milioni di anni oro bianco e brillanti
Dente fossile Megalodon, uno squalo preistorico estinto 5 milioni di anni oro bianco e brillanti

Bracciale galuchat con diamanti
Bracciale galuchat con diamanti

Bracciale rigido in oro bianco 18K, argento 925, zaffiri blu, brillanti. Denti fossili di: Carcharinus Plumbeus, nome comune squalo delle secche. epoca Pliocene-Miocene, circa 5 milioni di anni fa. Ritrovamento presso Bone Valley Group, Venice, Florida (USA). Carcharoides Catticus, epoca Miocene, circa 5-10 milioni di anni fa. Ritrovamento presso Antwerp, Belgio
Bracciale rigido in oro bianco 18K, argento 925, zaffiri blu, brillanti. Denti fossili di: Carcharinus Plumbeus, nome comune squalo delle secche. epoca Pliocene-Miocene, circa 5 milioni di anni fa. Ritrovamento presso Bone Valley Group,Venice, Florida (USA). Carcharoides Catticus, epoca Miocene, circa 5-10 milioni di anni fa.Ritrovamento presso Antwerp, Belgio

Collana in oro 18k, argento 925, zaffiri neri, brillanti. Dente fossile Carcharocles Megalodon (h.60x50), Pliocene-Miocene, circa 4 - 7 milioni di anni fa. Ritrovamento Contea di Beaufort, Carolina del Sud (Usa)
Collana in oro 18k, argento 925, zaffiri neri, brillanti. Dente fossile Carcharocles Megalodon (h.60×50), Pliocene-Miocene, circa 4 – 7 milioni di anni fa. Ritrovamento Contea di Beaufort, Carolina del Sud (Usa)






Precious Amore for Leo Pizzo




Amore is an Italian word known all over the world, like other popular terms like mamma or, if you prefer, pizza. Love is universal, it has no boundaries, it has no age, it has no colors. But it has a shape recognized by all, the heart. The organ that keeps blood circulating in the veins is also the one that beats the fastest when emotions overwhelm the mind. Leo Pizzo, an Italian maison from Valencia, knows these things very well and for this reason he conceived the Amore collection, which uses the eternal silhouette of the heart to symbolize the passion of the couple.

Anello in oro bianco e diamanti bianchi a forma di cuore
Anello in oro bianco e diamanti bianchi a forma di cuore

The Amore collection is made of gold and also uses brilliant-cut diamonds combined with precious stones such as pink sapphires to complete the pavé that completely covers the surface of the jewel. The hearts are slightly rounded, with a volume that helps to make the three-dimensionality of the jewel visible. The Amore collection includes rings, earrings and pendants linked to a double white gold chain.
LEO PIZZO anello zaffiri diamanti scaled

Orecchini in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Anello in oro rosa con diamanti bianchi e zaffiri rosa
Orecchini a forma di cuore in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti

Collana con pendente in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti
Collana con pendente in oro bianco e pavé di diamanti







Tiffany ring, mystery setting and trilogy




The three techniques of jewelry that you absolutely must know if you do not want to make bad figures. The first is … ♦

There are jewels that have marked an era. Which have been copied, imitated, and made famous by famous people. In short, milestones in the history of jewelry that you absolutely must know. They are those jewels that have been made with a technique or a form that you must know, if you do not want to make fools. We have selected three of the many jewelery stages.

1 The Tiffany frame

Invented in 1866 by Charles Tiffany and his team of gemologists, it soon became an industrial standard for engagement rings: six platinum spikes (claws) that like claws sprout from the base of the ring and support it in an almost invisible way. to reflect the maximum of light. The traditional alternative, which is still used, is the ring with four jaws. The six brands, however, can be smaller and thinner, so as to bring out the stone and lock it more accurately. Simple, but brilliant.

Disegno montatura Tiffany anello con diamante
Disegno montatura Tiffany anello con diamante
Anello con solitario montato a griffe Tiffany
Anello con solitario montato a griffe Tiffany

2 The invisible mystery setting

Patented by Van Cleef & Arperls in 1933, it consists of cutting small parallel grooves along the stone belts downwards and placing them one by one on a gold or platinum net. In practice, it is the gem itself to be inserted into this structure and to hold the nearby stone, with an interlocking game that can be worth even 300 hours of work for a pin. The system is mainly used for rubies and sapphires, while the emerald with its inclusions makes this operation rather risky because it could disintegrate if cut badly. Only in 1990 was this setting developed for diamonds. But today’s advanced techniques with software modeling make this process economically prohibitive, not only for the cost of labor, but also for excessive waste material. Despite this, the mystery setting style is still used by masters of jewelry, such as Jar.

Bracciale con rubini e diamanti con tecnica mystery setting di Van Cleef & Arpels
Bracciale con rubini e diamanti con tecnica mystery setting di Van Cleef & Arpels

Mistery
Spilla Van Cleef & Arpels, zaffiri Mistery setting e pavé di diamanti rotondi

3 The Trilogy ring

In this case it is not a patent or a special technique, but one of the most successful marketing campaigns in the industry: the three diamonds mounted on jaws or set on a faith were certainly not new, but in 1990 De Beers proposed with an advertising campaign created by the American agency JW Thompson. The slogan was: “present, past, future”, declined in about 2000 advertising films and remained in the minds of consumers, so much so that all the jewelers of the wedding segment were pushed to keep a similar model in their catalog.

Anello trilogy di De Beers
Anello trilogy di De Beers

Anello trilogy in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello trilogy in oro bianco e diamanti di Damiani







The playful fantasy of Zorab

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Rings inspired by animals, precious stones, jewels rich in colors: these are the high jewelery creations of Zorab, a Maison in Bangkok ♦

There are many Maison with high-sounding names that support secretly good part of their production to the Bangkog jewelry artisans. It is know, but never say it. Not surprisingly, therefore, that Zorab, a company based in the capital of Thailand, is able to produce jewelry that have nothing to envy to those of big names in the jewelery world. To establish this brand, recently seen also at the show in Las Vegas, were Zohrab & Arsina Istanboulian, nearly 40 years ago. Today to go ahead with the brand are their sons Henri, Liza and Hooman.

Anello a forma di toro in oro e gemme
Anello a forma di toro in oro e gemme

The stated objective of these virtuosos of the jewels, in which there is a strong use of precious stones, is to propose a jewel “not boring.” High jewelry, but not conventional, which can makes the wearer cheerful. They are unique pieces that are often inspired, in theory, to nature. In practice, they inspired by the ability to create jewelry with a strong color impression and meticulous art of setting. Perhaps these jewels could be called opulent, since there is no constraint on the ability of combination of metal and stones. To be clear: the Maison employs 150 craftsmen to create his collections, entirely produced in-house. Zorab not will disappoint those looking for a pair of earrings or a ring in bright tones and bright.

BRacciale in oro e palladio, con diamanti bianchi e gialli, zaffiri verdi e arancio, gemme colorate
BRacciale in oro e palladio, con diamanti bianchi e gialli, zaffiri verdi e arancio, gemme colorate
Orecchini in oro e platino, con spinelli viola e diamanti gialli
Orecchini in oro e platino, con spinelli viola e diamanti gialli
Anello con rubellite e zaffiri
Anello con rubellite e zaffiri
Anello con topazio e zaffiri blu
Anello con topazio e zaffiri blu
Anello in oro con ametista di oltre 20 carati e diamanti
Anello in oro con ametista di oltre 20 carati e diamanti

Anello Serpente con tormaline rosa e diamanti
Anello Serpente con tormaline rosa e diamanti







In the new age with Ark

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Ann Korman, designer of Los Angeles among jewelry and Indian mysticism with her brand Ark ♦ ︎
Take journalism, yoga and jewelry: mix it up and add oriental spirituality. Then, free your creativity. This is how Ark, the jewelery brand founded by Ann Korman in Los Angeles, was born. A story that has, precisely, these starting points: the designer, who has worked for many newspapers of the Condé Nast group, has made a trip to India. And it was his spiritual guru who incited her to follow her destiny, that is, her passions. Three years later, Ann launched her jewelery line, November 2016. Two years later she is already on sale at Moda Operandi. The guru, it seems, was right.

Anello Aura Lalita Viola, in oro, smalto trasparente e zaffiro al centro
Anello Aura Lalita Viola, in oro, smalto trasparente e zaffiro al centro

Design has always been the ball of Ann Korman: after graduating in painting at Cornell University, she won the Master in Fine Arts, worked in art galleries in New York and, finally, as a fashion editor for some magazines. At the same time, she set out on the path of meditation, yoga and, as if that was not enough, she studied gemology and yoga, Kabbalah and nutrition, Hinduism and goldsmith arts. The result of this new age mix are the jewels of her collections, some of which you see on this page, which at least partially reflect the collection of her passions.

Orecchini Dreamweaver Orange Aura, con smalto trasparente e oro riciclato
Orecchini Dreamweaver Orange Aura, con smalto trasparente e oro riciclato
Anello in oro riciclato e spinello viola
Anello in oro riciclato e spinello viola
Anello in oro e pavé di diamanti
Anello in oro e pavé di diamanti
Rose Aura Shakti Huggies in oro e smalto trasparente
Rose Aura Shakti Huggies in oro e smalto trasparente
Pendente con smalto trasparente, zaffiro rosa e oro riciclato
Pendente con smalto trasparente, zaffiro rosa e oro riciclato

Anello in oro e zaffiri
Anello eternity in oro e zaffiri







Ayva, colors for manager




The new jewels by Priyanka Kedia, founder of Ayva, queen of the compositions with small gems ♦

Responsible for strategic inventory distribution, implementation of new tools and processes, order management, inventory projections, demand and production. Again: responsible for identifying risky stocks … How can an expert logistics manager turn into a designer who proposes exquisite earrings and rings? You have to ask Priyanka Kedia, founder of Ayva, born and raised in a family of jewelers in Mumbai, India, but became a manager in San Francisco, California. In short, after experiencing the path to success in the business field, in 2015 he decided to follow the call of family traditions.

Anello impilabile in oro 18 carati con diamanti e zaffiri gialli
Anello impilabile in oro 18 carati con diamanti e zaffiri gialli

The collections, they say, that have an affinity with the European style and Italian design. The result is jewelry that always stand out with colored stones, particularly diamonds next to tourmalines, sapphires of different colors, amethysts. The stones are mounted with nice designs and regular to form light pieces, in which the color form shape of nice earrings, necklaces and rings (there is only one cuff now). Not bad for a woman who until recently was in charge of the efficiency of warehouses.
Anello doppio dito in oro 18 carati con diamanti, zaffiri gialli e bianchi, tormalina
Anello doppio dito in oro 18 carati con diamanti, zaffiri gialli e bianchi, tormalina

Anello impilabile in oro 18 carati con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Anello impilabile in oro 18 carati con diamanti e zaffiri rosa

Pendente in oro 14 carati con diamanti e citrino
Pendente in oro 14 carati con diamanti e citrino
Orecchini Lola in oro con diamanti e tormalina verde
Orecchini Lola in oro con diamanti e tormalina verde

Collana in oro con diamanti e ametista
Collana in oro con diamanti e ametista

Orecchini in oro 14 carati con ametista e diamanti
Orecchini in oro 14 carati con ametista e diamanti

Anello in oro 14 carati con ametista e quarzo fumé
Anello in oro 14 carati con ametista e quarzo fumé







The high jewelery blooms with La Fleur

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The jewelery pieces signed by La Fleur Jewels. Made in Bangkog, it’s hard to guess it, but… ♦ ︎
To say that La Fleur Jewels does not exist is probably wrong. But try searching this company online: you will waste time. Behind La Fleur Jewels, headquartered in Bangkoh, there is one of the many jewelery manufacturers on behalf of many of the great European and American Maison that designs at home and then make the most complex, delicate parts in Thailand. Then microscopic parts of jewels that are assembled at home and thus acquire the right to be classified as Made in … After this premise, it is enough to observe the work with the mystery setting technique, that is, with the setting without griffes of small stones next to each other, to understand that the La Fleur brand is well-versed in this type of workmanship. And, learned the style, the company decided to produce precious jewels with this French-flavored brand.

Anello con zaffiro giallo
Anello con zaffiro giallo

They are pieces of high jewelery: if instead of the La Fleur brand they had that of some other jewelry brand, nobody would have anything to complain about. And, apart from technique, the design of pins, pendants and rings reminds that of other jewels with other brands. But whoever goes to the substance, and here there is a lot, maybe it will not matter to all this.

Collana in oro bianco con zaffiri blu
Collana in oro bianco con zaffiri blu
Anello a due dita in oro bianco, setting di rubini, diamanti
Anello a due dita in oro bianco, setting di rubini, diamanti
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, con zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, con zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini a sfera in oro bianco, zaffiri, diamanti
Orecchini a sfera in oro bianco, zaffiri, diamanti
Orecchini a orchidea in oro giallo, zaffiri, diamanti
Orecchini a orchidea in oro giallo, zaffiri, diamanti

Spilla ballerina con diamanti e rubini. Per realizzarla sono necessari due mesi di lavoro
Spilla ballerina con diamanti e rubini. Per realizzarla sono necessari due mesi di lavoro







Diamonds? I’ll explain how to avoid bad purchases




Diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires: which is their value? How to recognize them? Some people buy them to make up for something, someone to love, for others is a safe haven investment. Whatever the motivation, the opinion of an expert is crucial. Mainly because when it comes to diamonds, there are parameters which are a kind of list of basis for the listing, but for colored gemstones such as emeralds, rubies and sapphires the matter is not simple. What to be careful and what criteria adopted for the selection, is explained by Pio Visconti, Italian Gemological Institute lecturer, consultant of many regional entity and owner of the Gemological Centre based in Valenza. The proof that it is a famous gemologist, lies in the fact that his skill is cited as a guarantee in the auction catalogs, in case of its certification of the jewel. «How to evaluate a stone? If you were to buy a Rolex goes from the authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?», says in this interview with Gioiellis.com .

Pio Visconti in tenuta da golf
Pio Visconti in tenuta da golf

Question. Which among the famous four C carat, color, clarity and  cut, it is more important when choosing a diamond?Answer. The criterion that must prevail, in my opinion, is cut. Of course weight, color and clarity are important, but because spending a stone IF 40 points and 70 points maybe a Vs2 is quite similar, the fact remains that when the diamond is set must shine on the frame, it must be a mountain of light, as the ancients said, and this can only be achieved with a good cut.

Fedi eternity in diamanti
Fedi eternity in diamanti

Q. But those who are not in the industry how can recognize a good job? They only rely on their aesthetic sense?

A. In the certificate are visible the numbers that refer to the values ​​of the upper part, for example 57 %, and the height of the crown 14%. To the customer does not say anything and that is why beside is written the analyst’s judgment: excellent, good, average, as proportions or as accuracy. Ultimately, I’d recommend a diamond cut-out great, because the other criteria are linked to the price.

Q. What do you do if the certificate does not exist?

A. I do have a question: if you were to buy a Rolex goes from authorized dealer or call for a friend who bought it on the subway?

Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi
Anello Legends of Africa con diamanti bianchi e smeraldi

Q. Many well-known brands are keen to highlight the exclusive use of certified diamonds, but there is the risk of receiving the certificate of another gem?

A. Anything can happen, but ruining his reputation for a non-transparent behavior for little gems of value is not worth it, especially since it takes very little to turn into a business catastrophe. In cases of very rare stones, the diamond is sealed with his certificate inside, even in the last decade is increasingly the request of  engraving the certificate number on the girdle of the stone itself.

Q. The race to the certification also depends on the remarkable technological developments in producing synthetic diamonds that are derived from carbon yes, but made ​​in a laboratory, and on the increasing of the number of natural stones modified by man to make them look more beautiful. The Gemological Institute of America (Gia), has even developed a 3D software to mask false. Does it work?

A. It is one more tool, but alone is not enough. The job of the gemologist is to identify the authenticity of the stone with a suitable instrumentation. In addition, there is a price list of the maximum for each of the 4 C, but the precise value is determined by supply and demand. Traders can even evaluate the stone without even seeing her, precisely because the certificate is authentic. Things however, is terribly complicated with colored stones: no certifying agency in the world is able to identify parameters in a serious manner that may suggest the value of an emerald, a ruby and a sapphire. And for precious stones is even worse.

Esame di un diamante a un precedente Dubai Jewellery Show
Esame di un gioiello com diamante

Q. It is said that the origin of the gems will determine the quality. It is true that the Burmese rubies are the most beautiful, as well as Colombian emeralds need to be?

A. It is a simplification: it is known that a Burmese ruby ​​usually has the characteristics of exceptional color because it is bright red, shiny, without saturation of dark tone or purple, almost the shade of the Ferrari cars to be understood. This does not mean that similar stones can not be found even in deposits of other countries, but they are certainly rarer. For example, those thai have excellent transparency, but also a purplish tinge, or a very small saturation blue. The same applies to emeralds: some exemplar, magnificent for color and transparency, the typical characteristics of beryl Colombians, were discovered in Brazil. Sapphires of Kasmhir are of a incomparable blue, but rare, while those of Ceylon are lighter but warmer tinge and, yet, those of Siam are of a very intense shade.

D. If the origin does not guarantee the quality, what about the cut?

A. The colored stones have most complicated crystal systems than diamonds, what matters is a good symmetry and uniformity color view from above, because you will never get this profile. For this reason, a cut not perfectly centered is acceptable in emeralds, rubies and sapphires. On the contrary, it is unacceptable in a diamond.

Q. And it always comes back to cutting …

A. Make the most of both the weight and the color of the gem depends on the skill of the cutter: Australian sapphires are very dark with a greenish overtones and therefore unloved, they are usually sliced ​​thin enough to avoid accentuating the gloom. Instead, those from Ceylon with very nice shades, but not so intense, have a much larger pavilion to enhance the color.

Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms
Rubino birmano color sangue di piccione non riscaldato da 6,41 carati, montato su un anello in oro giallo e bianco di 18 carati, circondato da diamanti, progettato da Forms

Q. But then the criterion of choice for these stones is the color?

A. Yes, it must be as pure as possible, reflect the idea of ​​green or red or blue we have. Obviously, I do not see inclusions with the naked eye, maybe you can help me with a diopter glasses or two, because imperfections will lower the value. And if you happen to want to do some shopping while traveling, before you buy a stone better go before a certifying agency of the place.

Anello Margot con zaffiro taglio pera e diamanti
Anello Margot con zaffiro taglio pera e diamanti

Q. What are the most common counterfeits and the most economically harmful? We often hear about emeralds “No Oil ” as a sign of authenticity. Is also true for rubies and sapphires?

A. Of all the treatments mentioned is that most harmless and also the oldest: Plinius mentions in his writings that make for the most beautiful emeralds was enough to soak them in the oil. The micro-fractures resin impregnated: yes those who are serious. For sapphires the most resounding method is thermo-diffusion, which tinged with blue a natural corundum completely colorless and reduces the value one-tenth. The outcome? A gem from 70 euro including treatment, may also be assessed 1,200 Euros. While the roots of ruby, so named because opaque, are rubies of very low quality, that with a very sophisticated technique, receive infiltration glass. Are generally lead to increase the effect, in order to make the rubies completely transparent. So, a 4 -carat stone of the cost to trade effortlessly exceed 100 dollars, has the same appearance of one evaluated a 5 thousand dollars.

Q. So the certification agency guarantees the authenticity and origin of the product?

A. Yes, it checks whether it is natural or synthetic , in the first case, it has undergone treatment. Thanks to the inclusions, which are the traces of the rock in which the rock was formed, it is possible to trace the geographical area. Value there is a very wide gap related to trade, fashion, personal perception.

Pietre di colore: zaffiro, rubino, rubellite e zaffiro giallo
Pietre di colore: zaffiro, rubino, rubellite e zaffiro giallo







Leonori to the top





Leonori’s high jewelery, an Italian Maison that is high ranking as the bigs ♦ ︎
In Forlì, Emilia Romagna, a stone’s throw from the beaches of the Adriatic Riviera, Cesare Boccalatte manages to offer high jewelery. And this is not a way of saying. To create rings with fantastic emeralds, diamonds and sapphires is Leonori Gioielli a Maison that was founded by Agostino Leonori in 1962. Maestro of jewelery, Leonori studied in Orafa School of Valenza, the cradle of Italian high jewelery, and worked for over 20 years in companies in the industry.

Anello doppio con diamanti e zaffiri gialli
Anello doppio con diamanti e zaffiri gialli

When he learned the secrets of the craft, he returned to his native Forlì where he opened a small jewelery shop. It tells the story of the company that the activity continued with his sons Cesare, Lucio and Daniela. They have expanded and promoted the business, and attracted the attention of customers in Italy and abroad. Caesar, in particular, a few years later made woven relationships around the world to import diamonds from Tel Aviv, emeralds from Colombia, Burmese rubies and Ceylon sapphires. An excellence that focuses on the foreign market (for example, with its presence at the International Jewelery London), thanks to its jewels that have those same quality of the great Maison. As you can see from these images.

Anello con rubino e diamanti
Anello con rubino e diamanti
Leonori Gioielli, anello in oro bianco con diamanti e smeraldo ovale da 2,09 carati
Leonori Gioielli, anello in oro bianco con diamanti e smeraldo ovale da 2,09 carati
Collezione Peonia, anello con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Collezione Peonia, anello con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Orecchini con diamanti e smeraldi
Orecchini con diamanti e smeraldi
Anello della collezione Giardini Segreti, in oro rosa e zaffiri
Anello della collezione Giardini Segreti, in oro rosa e zaffiri
Anello con diamanti e smeraldi taglio a goccia
Anello con diamanti e smeraldi taglio a goccia
Anello con diamanti bianchi e gialli
Anello con diamanti bianchi e gialli
Collana con diamanti e zaffiro taglio a pera
Collana con diamanti e zaffiro taglio a pera
Bracciale con zaffiri e diamanti
Bracciale con zaffiri e diamanti
Anello con smeraldi e zaffiro
Anello con smeraldi e zaffiro







The new Picchiotti color bracelet

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Picchiotti is one of the great Italian Maison of high jewelery. Founded in 1967 by Giuseppe Picchiotti, it has established itself for the high quality of its jewels and for a recognizable style. By the way: this article is not the result of a commercial relationship with Picchiotti, but it is a free judgment. The premise simply serves to explain that the high or fine jewelery of the company from Valenza (Italy) has taken on very specific characteristics over the years. But, as in all stories, every now and then there is something new.

Bracciale in oro con zaffiri, inserti in ceramica
Bracciale in oro con zaffiri, inserti in ceramica

In fact, at Vicenzaoro September, Picchiotti presented a preview of wide rigid bracelets that represent a new stylistic path. The bracelets are made of gold, with a large central yellow sapphire, and inserts of white or black ceramic, enclosed by gold bands that draw an arabesque. Other colored sapphires, pink and blue, dot the surface. In short, a jewel that, alongside luxury, focuses on liveliness and perhaps a young woman, who loves color and more sporty clothing. Or she is simply attracted to original and quality jewelry.
Il retro del bracciale
Il retro del bracciale

Also in Vicenzaoro, the Maison also presented more traditional rings from the Xpandable collection, a patented system that adapts to the size of the fingers. The rings are of the eternity genre with baguette-cut diamonds of class D and F (the best quality), or with 18 aligned emerald-cut rubies, and surrounded by baguette-cut diamonds. Classic high jewelery signed Picchiotti.

Bracciale in oro, zaffiri, inserti in ceramica bianca
Bracciale in oro, zaffiri, inserti in ceramica bianca

Anello di diamanti con diamante centrale taglio smeraldo
Anello di diamanti con diamante centrale taglio smeraldo

Anello della collezione Xpandable con diamanti
Anello della collezione Xpandable con diamanti

Anello della collezione Xpandable con 18 rubini e diamanti
Anello della collezione Xpandable con 18 rubini e diamanti







The Ottoman myth of Sevan Biçakçi

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From Turkey, the jewels that have inherited the Ottoman Empire charm, by Sevan Biçakçi ♦

Sevan Biçakçi is a designer wich a style so unique that it can not be compared with any other. Maybe because his carving on translucent materials, performed with dental instruments, is so careful to leave no words. The fact is that the Armenian jeweler likes a lot. Even to those who love a minimalist style.

Anello in oro giallo e bianco, argento e zaffiro blu
Anello in oro giallo e bianco, argento e zaffiro blu

In his incredible rings it is usually reproduce monuments of Istanbul, the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, the old Cistern, the portraits of the sultans and the gods, but also flowers, birds, fruits and insects. In fact, in the bottom of aquamarine, quartz, emeralds, sapphires and other gems they are engraved domes, petals, beaks, all miniatures that float in the transparency of the cabochon-cut stones mounted on ornately chiseled ring shank in gold, silver and enamel. In short, there is all the Byzantine artistic tradition and turkish Ottoman Empire, a kind of time machine that seems to be looking at it in the pages of the book written by Orhan Pamuk, My Name is Red, set in Istanbul of the sixteenth century.

His jewels are a myth for over the world and have won a place of honor also for sale at Barneys New York.

Anello in oro giallo, argento e diamanti neri
Anello in oro giallo, argento e diamanti neri

The series of rings with the Hagia Sophia made it known all over the world, but the real fame, especially in the US and one of the stars of Hollywood comes thanks to Gwyneth Paltrow, who often wears her necklace with a lock, one of the most recognizable themes Biçakçi, who is also one of the symbols of Turkish culture. Used to close the fences around the graves, represented the promise of good deeds in exchange for a merciful treatment for their loved ones, and take it in the neck meant to recall the commitment making valuable the person wearing it. And then the stylized daggers (the name Biçakçi in turkish means knife) on the facts bracelets with metal mesh as the armor of ancient warriors and other decorations typical of the Muslim world which has an important place even calligraphy.

Anello in oro 24 carati, argento, perla barocca, diamante
Anello in oro 24 carati, argento, perla barocca, diamante

In his workshop of five floors near the Grand Bazaar and then a few steps from all the most important buildings of the Turkish capital, the goldsmith with his collaborators, ten people, produces a maximum of 500 units a year, because the work d ‘ etching takes a long time. But not only that the notch on the bottom of the stone is a delicate technique, the risk of cracks in the gem is high and if at the end of the day the result is not excellent is thrown away everything. Fortunately the experience of many years of work, more than twenty, also allows to approach the finest materials without too much fear and create even more three-dimensional and colorful objects. As Jar does not work on commission and the price is established only to finished jewelry, although on average, ranging from 10 000 to $ 30,000 for a ring, and $ 3,000 for a simple necklace.

Anello in oro 24 carati con diamanti e ametista
Anello in oro 24 carati con diamanti e ametista
Anello in oro 24 carati con diamanti e quarzo citrino
Anello in oro 24 carati con diamanti e quarzo citrino
Anello in oro 24 carati con quarzo e zaffiro
Anello in oro 24 carati con quarzo e zaffiro
Anello in oro 24 carati con quarzo e zaffiro
Bracciale in oro 24 carati, argento, diamanti, pietre semi preziose
Collana in argento e oro 24 carati con diamanti bianchi e neri
Collana in argento e oro 24 carati con diamanti bianchi e neri

Anello in oro 24 carati, argento, quarzo intagliato, diamanti
Anello in oro 24 carati, argento, quarzo intagliato, diamanti







Black sapphires for Suzanne Kalan

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She is famous above all for two characteristics: the use of white diamonds or colored sapphires and for the stones invariably cut into baguettes. Now, however, Suzanne Kalan extends a new variant in her collections: black sapphire. The first jewels, presented at the very beginning of spring, are designed to be stackable, a feature also present in past collections. But, in the intentions of the American designer of Lebanese origins, the black color makes the jewels potentially wearable even by men.

Anello in oro giallo, zaffiri neri e diamanti
Anello in oro giallo, zaffiri neri e diamanti

The new jewels are also designed for baguette-cut stones, which Suzanne Kalan considers a very contemporary shape but, at the same time, not linked to a fashion of the moment. The stones are arranged on the jewelry so that they appear irregular and asymmetrical. In addition, black sapphires are in some cases combined with small white diamonds, which accentuate the contrast. A choice also shared by Patile, daughter of the designer who has long supported her mother in the family Maison.
Bracciale in oro giallo e zaffiri neri
Bracciale in oro giallo e zaffiri neri

Bracciale tennis in oro giallo e zaffiri neri
Bracciale tennis in oro giallo e zaffiri neri

Anello in oro rosa e diamanti bianchi
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti bianchi

Anello in oro rosa e rubini
Anello in oro rosa e rubini
Anello in oro rosa e zaffiri multicolori
Anello in oro rosa e zaffiri multicolori

Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti bianchi
Bracciale in oro bianco e diamanti bianchi







The circles of Carlo Barberis

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Circles, simple rounds. Which become elaborate if colors and weaves are added to the geometric shape. The Circle collection of the Maison of Valenza Carlo Barberis is among the freshest created by the company’s designers. The circular shape, instead of constituting the volume of the jewel, is simply represented on two dimensions, that is on the surface, alternating diamonds with sapphires, rubies or emeralds. The result is an original pattern of precious stones that cover jewels with a soft shape, the result of the experience of the goldsmiths of Carlo Barberis. A company that, in fact, boasts a long experience in the Valenza area. Just think that the trademark, 39 AL, is the oldest among those of the Piedmontese goldsmith district.

Bracciale con diamanti, zaffiri e smeraldi
Bracciale con diamanti, zaffiri e smeraldi

The birth of the company created when he was 20 by the young Carlo Barberis (1909-1994) after his apprenticeship dates back to 1929. The marriage with Valeria Boris, designer and daughter of art, also marked the style of the Maison. For over thirty years, until 1975, Valeria Boris took care of the company’s collections, focusing precisely on the use of color through precious stones.
Anelli con diamanti, rubini e smeraldi
Anelli con diamanti, rubini e smeraldi

The company is known, among other things, for the invention of the lapidé, a finishing technique with which the smoothing and polishing treatment used for stones is applied to the metal. The son of Carlo Barberis and Valeria Boris, Giovanni, then continued the tradition, together with his sister Francesca. The company has today reached its third generation, with the contribution of Francesco and Maria Barberis, Giovanni’s children. But the style and, above all, the quality remained.
Bracciali della collezione Circle
Bracciali della collezione Circle

Bracciale di Carlo Barberis
Bracciale di Carlo Barberis
Anello con diamanti e zaffiri
Anello con diamanti e zaffiri

Collana con diamanti e zaffiri
Collana con diamanti e zaffiri







Hydrangeas and poppies with Stenzhorn

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Hydrangeas and poppies: it is difficult for these two different flowers to be united in the same bouquet, together with the daisies. The German Maison Stenzhorn, however, unites them in two different lines that are made with the same elements: white gold, diamonds and rubies or sapphires. For this reason, even if the shape of the jewels is necessarily very different, the mini collections, which are part of the Floral collection, are similar in inspiration. Both, in fact, are composed of three jewels: necklace, earrings and ring.

Collana Hortensia in oro bianco, diamanti e rubini
Collana Hortensia in oro bianco, diamanti e rubini

Both collections, Hortensia and Poppy, are part of the company’s high jewelery proposals: they are elaborate jewels, made with care and, of course, sold at a price that reflects the quality of the materials used as well as the not simple workmanship. Poppy earrings, for example, cost 72,000 euros. For the necklaces the price goes up. But those who want to wear a jewel composed of diamonds and rubies that form flower crowns, probably do not have a too meager bank account in the first place.

Anello Hortensia con diamanti e rubini
Anello Hortensia con diamanti e rubini

Orecchini Papavero con diamanti e zaffiri
Orecchini Papavero con diamanti e zaffiri

Orecchini Papavero con diamanti e rubini
Orecchini Papavero con diamanti e rubini
Orecchini Hortensia con diamanti e rubini
Orecchini Hortensia con diamanti e rubini
Collana Papavero con diamanti e rubini
Collana Papavero con diamanti e rubini
Collana Margherita con diamanti e rubini
Collana Margherita con diamanti e rubini

Anello Papavero con diamanti e rubini
Anello Papavero con diamanti e rubini







The Petit gardens of Pasquale Bruni

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One of Pasquale Bruni‘s novelties concerns the collection that was launched four years ago, at Baselworld 2016, but which has now been renewed. The jewels are variations on the theme of the Secret Gardens collection. From that collection, in fact, the spin-off Petit Garden blossomed. Leaves and flowers are always the dominant motif, along with diamonds rained like pollen between the petals of rings and bracelets. After the debut in rose and white gold, which can also be combined together in a very soft contrast of colors, the collection has now taken on the blue and pink shades of sapphires, mounted on pink or white gold.

Orecchini con zaffiri rosa
Orecchini con zaffiri rosa

They are elegant jewels, always pleasant in their almost tropical shape, with the sinuous shapes of the petals that accompany rings or earrings. The flora in jewel format by Pasquale Bruni has all the air of wanting to get a place of honor on the hands of those who wear this great little continuation of the Secret Gardens collection. Style and precious realization are always the same.
Bracciale con zaffiri rosa
Bracciale con zaffiri rosa

Choker con zaffiri rosa
Choker con zaffiri rosa
Collana Petit Garden con zaffiri blu
Collana Petit Garden con zaffiri blu
Anelli della collezione Petit Garden
Anelli della collezione Petit Garden

Orecchini Petit Garden con zaffiri blu
Orecchini Petit Garden con zaffiri blu







Black, Starr & Frost, America’s oldest jeweler

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Few know this, but the oldest jeweler in the United States is not Tiffany, but Black, Starr & Frost. It was founded over 200 years ago (in 1810), and in the meantime it has provided splendid jewels to the American nabobs: Rockefeller, Vanderbilt, Canegis, Guggenheim, but also to the Prince of Windsor. The Maison was founded in New York by the silversmith Isaac Marquand, who immigrated from France. In 1839, the jewelry was bought by Henry Ball, Erasmus Tompkins and William Black, and renamed Ball, Tompkins & Black. But only until 1851 when it became Ball, Black & Company. Finally, in 1876 it acquired its current name, Black, Starr & Frost.

Anello con smeraldo colombiano taglio pan di zucchero di 45 carati
Anello con smeraldo colombiano taglio pan di zucchero di 45 carati

In short, the brand boasts the title of “America’s first jeweler” not by chance. The brand, however, is now owned by Alfredo J. Molina, also known as one of the top three gemologists in the world. And it’s based in Phoenix, Arizona. The most prestigious line of jewelry is called the President’s collection. They are jewels made with the most precious materials: platinum, 18 carat gold, and diamonds weighing between 0.33 and 53.58 carats.
Anello con zaffiro blu di 44,88 carati taglio cuscino e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro blu di 44,88 carati taglio cuscino e diamanti

Collana a cascata con zaffiri blu per 75,85 carati e diamanti per 51,24 carati
Collana a cascata con zaffiri blu per 75,85 carati e diamanti per 51,24 carati
Collana con smeraldi e diamanti
Collana con smeraldi e diamanti

Collana di 68 rubini birmani  sangue di piccione e diamanti
Collana di 68 rubini birmani sangue di piccione e diamanti







Morphée Joaillerie is Prêt-à-Briller

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A very personal flower garden, with small beetles that shuttle between one petal and another. It is the subject of the new collection of the French brand Morphée Joaillerie. The collection actually has a more fashionable name: Prêt-à-Briller. As in a garden, the idea of ​​the collection is to use the jewels in a natural way, for example by grouping them in small precious bunches, or to scatter them on the body, for example with several small earrings on the same ear. The beetle, made of 9 carat blackened white gold and labradorite, thus becomes that extra touch that makes the combination more in tune with nature.

Orecchino Cherry Blossoms in oro bianco 9 carati con diamanti
Orecchino Cherry Blossoms in oro bianco 9 carati con diamanti

The jewels are all in 9-karat gold with the addition of diamonds or colored sapphires: blue, yellow or pink, depending on the flower represented. Morphée Joaillerie is a creation of Pamela Hastry, a designer born in Brussels (Belgium), but who lives and works in Paris. He has an international education: after the industrial design course at the University of Kingston (England), he then attended the European Institute of Design in Rome, where he discovered the subtleties of jewels, in particular through the art of drawing.
Orecchino coleottero e orecchino in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchino coleottero e orecchino in oro bianco e diamanti

Orecchini non ti scordar di me con zaffiri blu
Orecchini non ti scordar di me con zaffiri blu
Orecchino a bottone in oro giallo 9 carati e zaffiri gialli
Orecchino a bottone in oro giallo 9 carati e zaffiri gialli
Anelo scarabeo in oro bianco annerito 9 carati e labradorite
Anelo scarabeo in oro bianco annerito 9 carati e labradorite
Anello in oro rosa 9 carati e zaffiri rosa
Anello in oro rosa 9 carati e zaffiri rosa

Anello a fiore grande Buttercups in oro giallo 9k con zaffiri gialli
Anello in oro giallo 9 carati e zaffiri gialli







The free diamonds by Glik




From Brazil to New York, vacuum precious stones and furniture by Moritz Glik

For Moritz Glik (don’t be fooled by the German-Polish name: he’s a Brazilian-born jeweler, where he started as a shoe designer, but has lived in New York since the 1990s), there is nothing more magical than the sparkle of diamonds. free to move under two bezels of the glass he uses for watches, namely sapphire crystal. In truth, Chopard had already thought about it with the watches in 1976, but Glik put his own and with a strong sense of design he created Kaleidoscope, an ongoing collection that won the Couture Show for two years in a row.

Anello in oro rosa con diamanti e zaffiri bianchi
Anello in oro rosa con diamanti e zaffiri bianchi

From the beginning with a minimalist motif modeled on burnished metal and mounted flush, the next step was the retro frames; now it is the turn of rounded shapes in pink and opulent yellow gold with pavé stones that frame diamonds of all colors, sapphires of various shades, emeralds and shiny or rough rubies. All the pieces are made entirely by hand in his New York studio, if and some take on a precise shape only when worn, all give the illusion of diamonds floating in the air. The Kaleidoscope collection, for example, is made up of pendants, rings, bracelets and earrings that enclose loose diamonds and colored stones inside a white sapphire crystal, so that they move with the wearer. Alessia Mongrando

Orecchini in oro giallo com diamanti neri, zaffiri bianchi, tormaline
Orecchini in oro giallo con diamanti neri, zaffiri bianchi, tormaline
Bracciale in oro giallo con smeraldi e smalto nero
Bracciale in oro giallo con smeraldi e smalto nero
Pendente in oro giallo e diamanti gialli
Pendente in oro giallo e diamanti gialli
Anello con zaffiro rosa e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro rosa e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa con smeraldi e smalto nero
Anello in oro rosa con smeraldi e smalto nero
Pendente in oro rosa com rodolite viola e zaffiri bianchi
Pendente in oro rosa com rodolite viola e zaffiri bianchi






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