Vicenzaoro

Ieg changes the manager of Vicenzaoro

Matteo Farsura, former Exhibition Manager of Vicenzaoro, takes over the leadership of the Jewelery & Fashion division of Ieg, the company that organises, among other things, the fair dedicated to jewellery. Farsura replaces the division’s Global Exhibition Director, Marco Carniello, who takes on the role of Chief Business Officer at the helm of Ieg’s new Business Management, which will coordinate all the industries presided over by the exhibition player. In essence, a promotion for Carniello and a new responsibility for Farsura, which will manage the events of Ieg’s Jewelery Agenda: Vicenzaoro, Oroarezzo, T.Gold, Summit del Gioiello, Valenza Gem Forum, VO’Clock Privé, VO Vintage, as well as JGTD and SIJE in Dubai and Singapore respectively.

Matteo Farsura
Matteo Farsura

The manager will also have responsibility for Fimast, which falls within IEG’s J&F division. From Padua, born in 1975, Matteo Farsura has worked at IEG since 2017, where he contributed to developing first the technology segment, then the Arezzo events and finally Vicenzaoro. After his scientific studies, a degree in Business Economics in Venice Cà Foscari and an MBA Master’s degree from the CUOA Foundation with the US University of Michigan Dearborn (International Program), he developed managerial skills in the luxury sector and event organization, operating – among others – in a leading Italian fashion jewelery company, and drawing inspiration from the values of sport, borrowed from consolidated experience in rugby in the dual role of player and coach.
Marco Carniello
Marco Carniello

Vicenzaoro, visitors. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro, visitors. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Vicenzaoro ready to expand

3% increase in attendance. Total media contacts over 230 million. Views of exhibitor profiles on the B2B online platform approximately 260 thousand (+30% compared to January 2023). The balance sheet of Vicenzaoro January seems rosy. And now Ieg, the company that organizes the most prestigious European jewelery fair, is preparing to invest 60 million to expand the spaces in view of the next event, set for 6 to 10 September 2024. In short, Vicenzaoro is not living 70 years bad.

Visitatori a Vicenzaoro
Visitors to Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The balance of the January edition also indicates that 141 countries around the world are present in Vicenza with exhibitors or buyers, up from 136 in 2023: 53% from Europe, 9.3% from the Middle East. Then, Asia (10.5%), Turkey (8%), North America especially for the USA (7.2%), Latin America (5.1%), Africa (4.9%). For individual countries, the largest increase was for China (+188%), Japan (+44%), Colombia (+38%), Brazil (+36%) and France (+25%). Jewellery, on the other hand, is experiencing a positive moment, even if some shadows arise, linked above all to international tensions.
Vicenzaoro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com

There is also something new: from next year (2 to 4 September 2025) Ieg has planned a new international event: The Vicenza Symposium which inherits the experience of the Santa Fe Symposium, closed in 2022: an event born in the mid-eighties , with the aim of delving into the themes of jewelery production.
Vicenzaoro January, ingresso. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro January, entrance. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The winners of the Progol3D Design Contest

In Vicenzaoro a jury made up of experts from Progold, Bulgari and Platinum Guild International selected the winners of the Progol3D Design Contest. Joint winners were Giulia Noascone from the European Institute of Design in Turin and Asia Roccazzella from LAO-Le Arti Orafe in Florence. The public jury instead declared Christophe Darreau of the Haute Ecole de Joallerie in Paris the winner. Over 150 projects designed by 74 students from seven schools from six countries participated in the contest. The theme identified for 2024 was B-Evolution, the jewel inspired by the industrial universe seen through the eyes of Bulgari.

Christophe Darreau, Giulia Noascone, Asia Roccazzella
Christophe Darreau, Giulia Noascone, Asia Roccazzella

Also on stage were Damiano Zito, CEO of Progold, Donatella Fici, director of Innovation and Product Development Bulgari Roma, Tai Wong, director of Innovation and Product Development Platinum Guild International, Daniela Bulgarelli, coordinator of the Jewelery and Accessory Design Course at the Ied-Institute European Design Institute of Turin, Michela Ferraro, Jewelery expert and educator at Birmingham institute of Jewellery, Fashion and Textiles.

Anello di Asia Roccazzella
Asia Roccazzella ring
Anello di Giulia Noascone
Giulia Noascone ring
Anello di Christophe Darreau
Christophe Darreau ring

Vicenzaoro January kicks off

Italian jewelery exports in the first nine months of 2023 increased by 11.3%, to over 8 billion euros, despite the slowdown in the third quarter of 2023 (+4.2% compared to 13.7% in the second quarter and to 16.2% of the first). Federorafi’s photography, processed by the Confindustria Moda Study Center and Istat data, marks the context in which the seventieth edition of Vicenzaoro January – The Jewelery Boutique Show (19-23 January) opens. The event organized by Ieg presents, for the occasion, a logo dedicated to the anniversary and an iconographic exhibition among the pavilions at the Fair. This edition registers over 1,300 exhibiting brands from 37 countries. Vicenzaoro is flanked by T.Gold, dedicated to jewelery technologies, and the fifth edition of VO Vintage, an event open to the public of vintage watch and jewelery enthusiasts.

Vicenzaoro 2023
Vicenzaoro 2023

Above all, business is at the center: 40% of the buyers come from abroad, in total over 500 buyers hosted thanks to the support of the network of Ice offices (state export agency). The main destination markets of jewelery or semi-finished products are Switzerland (15% of the total, +31.2% on the same period of 2022), the United States (13.4%, +5.3%) and France (10.2%, +15, 8). However, Germany, the United Kingdom, South Africa and Canada are decreasing, while the decline towards Russia and Ukraine obviously continues (-24.6%). In the first nine months of 2023, the cumulative turnover figure of Italian companies grew by 8.1%.

Vicenzaoro 70 logo
Vicenzaoro 70 years logo
Vicenzaoro September 2023, espositori
Vicenzaoro September 2023, exhibitors

 

Young designers in Vicenzaoro with The8

Together with VicenzaOro January, the new The8 project is taking shape, dedicated to IED students in Rome and Turin. The competition was promoted by Labigem, the Italian Gemology Laboratory, in 2023. The idea is to promote initiatives to link training and industry, with the aim of discovering and giving an international showcase to new jewelery talents.
The two curators of the project are prominent: Alessia Crivelli and Alessio Boschi. The The8 project features four young emerging designers who will exhibit in the Design Room (Hall 7) of Vicenzaoro with the aim of linking education and the jewelery industry.

Alessio Boschi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alessio Boschi. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The young people selected are Igor Quagliata, 26 years old, graduated from the IED in Rome, who creates colored surfaces in titanium, precious stones and combinations of contrasting gold. Another young designer is the Iranian Roshanak Payrovi, who after her master’s degree in Jewelery Design in Arezzo has deepened the micromosaic technique to the point of making it her stylistic signature in jewellery. Antonia Ascolillo, a student at the IED in Rome, focuses on textures and metallic coatings of organic surfaces inspired by cellular tissues and Juan Sebastian Plah Galindo, a 22-year-old Colombian, now with roots in Milan and winner in 2023 of the Digital Jewelry Week (reserved for designers under 35 and promoted, among others, by Vicenzaoro) is inspired by the Colombian city of Cartagena de Indias.
Floweye, Antonia Ascolillo
Floweye, Antonia Ascolillo

The8 will involve all the professional schools, universities or masters of Jewelery Design every year, who will present the most interesting students and projects. Results communicated in the September edition of the Ieg show to start the process of sponsorship and valorisation of the selected participants.
Antonia Ascolillo
Antonia Ascolillo

GIoiello di Juan Sebastian Plah Galindo
Jewel by Juan Sebastian Plah Galindo
Juan Sebastian Plah Galindo
Juan Sebastian Plah Galindo
Igor Quagliata
Igor Quagliata
Gioiello di Igor Quagliata
Jewel by Igor Quagliata
Roshanak Payrovi
Roshanak Payrovi
Anello di Roshanak Payrovi
Anello di Roshanak Payrovi

The Vicenzaoro January program

Countdown to the new edition of Vicenzaoro January. A special edition, given that the fair dedicated to jewelery turns 70. The event organized by Ieg is scheduled from Friday 19th to Tuesday 23rd January at the Vicenza Fair, together with T.Gold (machines for goldsmithing) and VO Vintage, the event open to the public dedicated to watchmaking and at the vintage jewelry store (January 19-22). As in previous editions, the program includes appointments, workshops and interventions by experts. The complete program can be found here.
And, as always, Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting, an independent IEG observatory directed by Paola De Luca, which explores sector trends. This year Trendvision will be accompanied by Mariella Milani, Rai journalist, Lucia Silvestri, Creative Director Bulgari, Alessia Crivelli, director of the Maison of the same name and founder of Mani Intelligenti Foundation, and Amedeo Scognamiglio, one of the two founders of Faraone Mennella and Amedeo’s Jewelry.

Vicenzaoro January 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro January 2023. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Also scheduled is a talk on the creativity of jewelery with Assogemme, the creative director Olga Corsini. Jewelery and business will be at the center of an event with Isabella Traglio, Executive Board Member and Head of R&D Vhernier, Claudia D’Arpizio, Bain & Co., Stellene Volandes, Editor in Chief Town & Country, Randi Udell, London Jewelers, Corinne Dauger , consultant and academic. Milanese goldsmith art is the focus of the Gem Talks organized in collaboration with IGI, the Italian Gemological Institute. Also in the field are narrative skills to be used in the jewelery sector with the Retail Talks of Federpreziosi Confcommercio, in particular in the sale of diamonds.
Vicenzaoro 70 logo
Vicenzaoro 70 years logo

The Goldsmiths’ Club and Intesa Sanpaolo’s Studies and Research Department will also present for this edition a photograph of the Italian goldsmith sector, with numbers and analyses. What is now inevitable in any event is not missing: a reflection on the sustainability of the sector. Responsible practices are at the center of the seminars organized by Cibjo, the International Jewelery Confederation, in collaboration with entities such as the Watch & Jewelery Initiative 2030, World Gold Council and Platinum Guild International, with the participation of luxury experts such as Kering and Cartier. Sharing of good practices and partnerships in the name of traceability in the foreground with the multinational group Fine Euro BV and the technology company Everledger.
Vicenzaoro, visitors. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro, visitors. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Also scheduled in Vicenzaoro is the Jewelry Technology Forum, in collaboration with Legor Group (21 January) with the participation of teachers, researchers and international experts in the fields of metallurgy, gems, new jewelery technologies and certifications. Blockchain as a weapon against counterfeiting will instead be the theme of the event in collaboration with the digital agency Art&sofT.

yoko london vicenzaoro copyright gioiellis
Vicenzaoro, Yoko London. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Vhernier also at Vicenzaoro January

The Italian Vhernier and the Catalan Facet: these are two of the novelties of the next edition of Vicenzaoro January (19 to 23 January 2024), which will celebrate its 70th birthday. An event which, alongside the celebrations (with an exhibition) of the largest European fair dedicated to jewellery, presents itself to buyers with over 1300 exhibitors, with 40% coming from 37 different countries, while buyers from over 130 countries are expected. Together with Vicenzaoro, as usual, there will be T.Gold, an event dedicated to machinery and technologies for gold and jewellery, as well as VO Vintage (19-22), an event open to the public dedicated to vintage watches and jewelery .

Anello di Facet indossato
Facet Ring

As usual, the strongest brands are found in the Icon area. With the reconfirmations of brands such as Damiani, Roberto Coin, Crivelli, Fope, while Vhernier’s designer jewels will be stationed in the showroom on the first floor. Among the top brands there is no shortage of Annamaria Cammilli, Roberto De Meglio, Palmiero, Chantecler and Gismondi 1754 together with Vendorafa. Again: Leo Pizzo, Mirco Visconti, Davite & Delucchi, Giorgio Visconti, World Diamond Group, as well as the boutique brands of Peruffo Jewellery, Marco Dal Maso, Adolfo Courier, Serafino Consoli, Nanis, Verdi, Giovanni Ferraris, Butani, Staurino Fratelli, Baraka.
Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Among the foreign brands, Schreiner, Hans Krieger, Giloy, Breuning, Niessing, Jörg Heinz and Heinz Mayer, Dámaso Martinez, Carrera y Carrera and the aforementioned Facet are confirmed, as well as Akillis, Djula, Autore and Fabergé. The Design Room area will not be missing either, with the debut of the French architect Michel Tortel with the Qitteri Paris brand and the proven participation of Vicky Shawe, Karen Suen, Alessio Boschi, Marina B, JMG Designer, Busatti Milano, Miseno Jewelry, Netali Nissim, Cedille Paris, Antonini Milano, Mousson Atelier, Osi Vitoria Jewelry and Misani.
Vicenzaoro 70 logo
Vicenzaoro 70 logo

Vicenzaoro with an exhibition on its 70th anniversary

Vicenzaoro is preparing to celebrate its first 70 years. The event organized by Italian Exhibition Group in January 2024 (from 19th to 23rd at the fair in Vicenza), will be marked by this anniversary. Immediately afterwards, in February Ieg will begin extensive renovation work on the Vicenza exhibition center with the demolition of the old “snail” (pavilion 2) and pavilion 5 for the construction of a new, more functional environment, which will redesign and expand the exhibition capacity of the neighborhood.

Vicenzaoro 70 logo
Vicenzaoro 70 logo

The 70 years of Vicenzaoro, however, are summarized in the claim The Heritage for Tomorrow. In 70 years, Vicenzaoro has grown and transformed into one of the three most important B2B jewelry fairs in the world. A success possible thanks to companies, customers, buyers, institutions, associations, media. And, in recent years, thanks to the commitment of Ieg. Born in 1954 from the trade fair of local excellence, the Vicenza goldsmith exhibition, named Vicenzaoro in the 1980s, has built over the decades a heritage of relationships, skills and values that have made it the reference platform for the global industry . The anniversary represents a salient stage for the Vicenza show and its community: it will reaffirm the development and consolidation of its strategic market leadership and will enhance its international reach.
Vicenzaoro September 2023
Vicenzaoro September 2023

The exhibition
An exhibition set up in the pavilions during the January edition will retrace the 70 years of the fair. It will be in seven stages, one for each decade, with the themes, places, treasures, characters and numbers that have contributed to substantiating its iconic allure over the years. Including visits from Diego Armando Maradona, and the former President of the Republic Francesco Cossiga. A celebratory logo characterizes all communication, together with online content accessible to the entire community.
At the centre, however, there is the link between the fair and jewellery, one of the most important manufacturing sectors for the Veneto region. For this reason, in the heart of the city there are numerous historic goldsmith shops, the Jewelery Museum and a gold route that runs through the centre. And Vicenza will be the protagonist and voice of this seventieth anniversary: during the days of the fair some shop windows in the center will tell the story of VO70 and goldsmithing, also linking online to dedicated content.

Collana di Vittorio Fiorentino con corallo e diamanti indossata a Vicenzaoro
Collana di Vittorio Fiorentino with coral and diamonds indossata in Vicenzaoro

yoko london vicenzaoro copyright gioiellis
Vicenzaoro, Yoko London. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Giselle Effting. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Giselle Effting, Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Brusi and the asymmetric nature

The jewels of the small Milanese Maison Brusi, founded in 1930 ♦

Brusi is part of the many stories of Italian jewelry. A story that began in Milan in 1920, when the young Pietro Codari, a young goldsmith, started his business and opened a laboratory. The story continued: in 1970 his son Paolo inherited his laboratory and profession. Over time the company has expanded and has refined its vocation. Today, Paolo, Andrea and Simone, Paolo Codari’s three children, work in the family business and are responsible for the creative, financial and commercial management of Brusi.

Anello in oro con tanzanite e corona di diamanti
Gold ring with tanzanite and diamond crown

The company, located in a historic area of the city, between the Monumental Cemetery of Milan and the Chinese quarter, offers good quality pieces, based on gold, diamonds and precious stones. Rings with champagne diamond pavé and precious stones such as tanzanite are the workhorses. Always with the style of «almost symmetry». That is, that difference from the perfect geometric specularity that is often found in nature. The goal is to present jewelry in harmony with nature, thanks to this natural asymmetry. Subtle but interesting concept.

Anelli con smeraldi e zaffiri
Rings with emeralds and blue sapphires
Anelli con diamanti champagne
Anelli con diamanti champagne
Orecchini in oro, apatite, madreperla, diamanti brown
Orecchini in oro, apatite, madreperla, diamanti brown
Orecchini in oro e diamanti champagne e bianchi
Orecchini in oro e diamanti champagne e bianchi
Orecchini in oro e zaffiri blu
Orecchini in oro e zaffiri blu
Orecchini in oro e rubini
Orecchini in oro e rubini
Anello in oro bianco e tanzanite
Anello in oro bianco e tanzanite

Vicenzaoro celebrates 70 years

Vicenzaoro turns 70. It is the longest running gold salon in the world and is preparing to celebrate its birthday in January. The jewelery fair, which recently broadened its horizon to the world of watchmaking, opens registration and begins the countdown: it will be held from 19 to 23 January in Vicenza. The B2B event organized by the Italian Exhibition Group will once again take place simultaneously with the T.Gold jewelery technologies and machinery exhibition, and with VO Vintage now in its fifth edition: a space open to the public of collectors and watch enthusiasts and vintage jewelry (January 19-22).

Vicenzaoro logo
Vicenzaoro logo. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Even if the date is special, the exhibition formula tailored for buyers from all continents will be respected, given that Vicenzaoro is among the first three events in the world dedicated to jewelery and watches, to which are added components, semi-finished products, diamonds, precious and colored stones, packaging and services such as visual merchandising, contemporary watchmaking with distribution.
Visitatore a Vicenzaoro
Visitor in Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For the occasion, the organizers have made travel and hospitality solutions available such as luxury hubs (affiliated hotels in the Venetian cities near Vicenza connected to the fair with free shuttles). The online platform The Jewelery Golden Cloud (also in App) is dedicated to business matching, which intertwines the agendas of exhibitors and operators even before the fair begins. Enriched by the complete catalog of exhibitors, the interactive plan of the pavilions, streaming of talks with simultaneous translation, and useful functions for parking, moving around the city and enjoying the historical, artistic, cultural and food and wine richness of Vicenza and the Veneto.
Foto ricordo a Vicenzaoro
Souvenir photo in Vicenzaoro September. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Visitors at Vicenzaoro September is increasing

The carats of Vicenzaoro September increase. The event organized by the Italian Exhibition Group recorded +6% of total visitors for the 2023 edition, with 50% of the foreign component. The number of countries of origin has also increased: 132 with numerous new entries. According to the report by Ieg, whose president, Lorenzo Cagnoni, passed away a few days before the start of Vicenzaoro, the countries of the European Union represented 52% of the visitors, while Asia and the Middle East 17%, the Americas ‘11%, Africa 4% and Oceania 1%. Strong presence of the large European markets led by Spain (7%), Germany (4.8%) and France (4.2%). The United States is the fourth most represented country and leads the ranking of non-EU buyers, all of whom came to the fair for business with the 1,200 brands exhibiting this edition.

Visitatori a Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Visitors to Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For lovers of statistics, arrivals from Switzerland (+46%), Belgium (+25%), UAE (23%), Turkey (+6%) have increased. This edition sees numerous new entries among the nationalities who attended the pavilions of the Vicenza exhibition center. Entering the ranking for the African continent: Mozambique, Ghana, Mauritius, Benin, Zambia and Burkina Faso, Ivory Coast, Kenya. And among the more distant ones, the new entries from the Virgin Islands, Mongolia, New Zealand and Vanuatu. From 2017 to today, Vicenzaoro has seen foreign visits grow by 34%. The presence of watchmaking in Vicenzaoro also seems consolidated. With the Time b2b community and the VO’Clock Privè event, open to the b2c public, there were around sixty companies from the hand industry present. Appointment in January.
Vicenzaoro September 2023
Vicenzaoro September 2023

Vicenzaoro September 2023, espositori
Vicenzaoro September 2023

Become a jewelry professional

Do you want to work in the world of jewelery and goldsmithing? Italian Exhibition Group, the company that organizes Vicenzaoro, presents the event dedicated to jewelery also as an opportunity for professional training.

Golden Professions
On the subject of promoting goldsmith culture among young people, the initiatives of Confindustria Federorafi launched last year in collaboration with Skuola.net and with the support of Italian Exhibition Group and Vicenzaoro continue. In fact, the second Vlog dedicated to the testimonies of the new generations within manufacturing companies in the sector was launched right after the event. The video made at Vicenzaoro is just one of the actions carried out by the trade association on this issue: the national mapping of goldsmith schools took place in recent months, as well as the possibility of cross-referencing the curriculum vitae of aspiring jewelery operators with the demand for professionalism from companies in the sector.

Trend-seeking students
Also in this edition of Vicenzaoro Inspiration Boards returns, the training project born in collaboration with Laura Inghirami, opinion leader of the jewel, founder & creative director of Donna Jewel, to support the new generations. Vicenzaoro will host the students of the Jewelery Design course of IED, the European Institute of Design in Turin, who will go trend-hunting among the pavilions, interviewing some of the protagonists of the show and photographing the trendiest jewels. The images and interviews will then be published on the Instagram profile @vo.inspiration and on the Vicenzaoro website.

Studenti nel laboratorio di oreficeria Design del gioiello contemporaneo, a Venezia
Students in the goldsmith’s workshop Design of contemporary jewellery, in Venice

Training schools
At Vicenzaoro, the changing training needs of the gold-jewelry sector will also be discussed in a talk in which the Vicenza gold sector and the professional schools of the area will be protagonists: on Saturday 9 November Andrea Tomat, president of ITS Cosmo Fashion Academy, and Roberto Peripoli, director of the d’Arte e Mestieri CPV – Veneto Productivity Centre, will discuss the theme together with Elena Donazzan, Councilor for Education, Training, Employment and Equal Opportunities of the Veneto Region.
Analisi gemmologica a Vicenzaoro
Gemological analysis in Vicenzaoro

Designers under 30
The attention to new talent continues even after the fair. Digital Jewelry Week (DJW), the digital project dedicated to aspiring goldsmiths under 30 and created by Dario Rjeili in collaboration with Threedium and with the support of Vicenzaoro, will debut online from 2 to 7 October 2023. It is a virtual space for young designers who want to promote their skills at the end of the training course in the goldsmith field. Last May the DGW launched a contest open to 30 under 30 goldsmiths who compete in the design of an original jewel. The winner will be revealed at Vicenzaoro January 2024, based on the score obtained from the votes of the public collected online and the jury of experts present, and will be able to see his project realized: participation, this time also physically, at the fair is up for grabs.
Vicenzaoro January
Vicenzaoro January 2023

Cours avec Vicenzaoro

Countdown to Vicenzaoro September (8-a2) and VO’Clock Privé (8-10). The event, as always, in addition to the presentation of the new collections, also reserves space for training moments for professionals in the gold and jewelery sector. Here is a summary of the most interesting events.

Vicenzaoro September. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro September. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Jewelry market
The analysis of market trends, between Made in Italy and international markets, will open the Vicenzaoro events on Friday 8 September at 11.30, with the presentation of Intesa Sanpaolo data in collaboration with Club degli Orafi Italia. Monday 11 September focus on exports and competitive positioning of the companies of the Vicenza goldsmith district of Confartigianato Imprese Vicenza, with the head of the Gold and Jewelery System Sara Ferretti, and Vladi Riva, head of the International Department.
VicenzaOro September 2019. Copyright: gioiellis,com
Vicenzaoro September. Copyright: gioiellis,com

Natural or laboratory diamonds?
At Vicenzaoro we will take stock of the correct marketing strategies for the diamond market, and in particular one of the most debated topics in the sector, the difference between natural and lab-grown diamonds. The Gem Talk organized by Igi (Italian Gemological Institute) will talk about it on Sunday 10 September, providing the public with tools and indications for operating responsibly. Speeches by Luigi Cosma, president of the Italian Diamond Exchange, Thierry Silber, founder & CEO Madestones, and Daniel Nyfeler, managing director Gubelin Gem Lab Ltd, moderated by Loredana Prosperi, director of Igi Milano.
Il Talk sui diamanti sintetici a Vicenzaoro
Talk on diamaonds in Vicenzaoro

Fight the fakes
On Sunday 10th, in collaboration with Cibjo – World Jewelery Confederation, Sara Yood, Deputy General Counsel, Jewelers Vigilance Committee, will dedicate a seminar to the protection of intellectual property as a fundamental asset in the jewelery and goldsmith industry. Moderated by Lisa Koenigsberg, Initiatives in Arts and Culture, the event is entitled Defending what’s yours: IP in the jewelry and watch industry and will illustrate the legal options in the event of theft or infringement of copyrights, patents and trademarks, on the of design as well as that of marketing.
Il Talk «The State of the Art»
Il Talk «The State of the Art»

The profession of jeweler
Empathy, listening, emotional intelligence, but also creativity and narrative ability are fundamental for those who, in the point of sale, weave a dialogue with end customers. Talking about the retailers’ perspective on Saturday 9 September, guest of Assogemme for the talk Humanity as a competitive advantage: the strategic role of independent jewelers, Carlo Bartorelli, president and sole director of Bartorelli 1882, one of the oldest and most important jewelry groups jewelers in Italy which manages, in addition to the Bartorelli multi-brand stores in Italy, also the Bulgari and Hublot single-brand boutiques in Forte dei Marmi and the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre and Iwc openings by the end of 2023. A reflection that continues on Sunday too, with the Retail Talk by Federpreziosi Confcommercio focused on motivation, values and soft skills as strategic weapons for the jeweler. Among the guests Francesco Moser, multiple award-winning cycling champion.
Gioielleria Rocca a Bologna, ingresso
Rocca jewelry store, Bologna

The time of watches returns to Vicenzaoro

The time for Vicenzaoro is approaching. Which is no longer just a great event dedicated to jewelry, but has also begun to host timepieces and watches. To the space open to the public and dedicated to enthusiasts of the genre, VO’Clock Privé, has been added the one reserved for operators and hosted inside the pavilions of the fair: Time. The name of the area reserved for watches leaves no room for doubt and this year, in its second field test, it hosts over 40 exhibiting brands. Time also lasts as long as Vicenzaoro (September 8-12).

Orologi a marchio Gagà
Gagà Watches

The presence of Made in Italy and international brands such as Locman and U-Boat, Mühle-Glashütte, Junghans, Herbelin is expected, as well as emerging brands and Italian micro-brands. Among this group there is a selection signed by Watches of Italy, which returns even richer, Venezianico, Out of Order and Fathers. For France the Herbelin brand and for Switzerland Bomberg. Plus, private label manufacturers and accessories like Wolf. For the public of enthusiasts, with Vicenzaoro January, VO Vintage will return, dedicated to vintage watches and jewellery.

Vetrina Maurice Lacroix
Brand Maurice Lacroix

Booth Locman
Booth Locman

U-Boat, watches
U-Boat, watches

Hi-tech shines in Vicenzaoro

The technological side of jewelery is increasingly important for those who produce, but also for those who buy rings, necklaces and earrings. And it will also be one of the focuses of Vicenzaoro September (8-12), the classic appointment organized by the Italian Exhibition Group. The organizers announce moments of information and reflection on augmented reality, 3D printing, phygital retail experiences involving creation and processing, logistics and distribution. Talks, seminars and areas dedicated to innovation are planned to address the issue. At the base is the study by Bain Luxury and technology: the beginning of a new era commissioned by Comité Colbert, an association that brings together 93 French luxury maisons. According to the consultancy firm, in the next three years luxury companies will employ on average three types of emerging technologies more than those already in use.

Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

According to the program of the Vicenza event, solutions from startups and SMEs will be found in the Startup & Carats area, a project organized in collaboration with Agenzia Ice for the promotion of Italian companies abroad. In this context, Livemote makes its debut, a startup from Arezzo with parent company in Rome that develops software for technical assistance on machinery through augmented reality and for 3D modeling starting from photographic supports. Particular Materials from Padua is also a new entry in Vicenza with a new technology for traceability of the supply chain and anti-counterfeiting which, through the use of nanoparticles invisible to the naked eye integrated into the product or material, guarantees its authenticity through the use of portable X-ray analyzers.
StartUp&Carats 2022
StartUp&Carats 2022

The Bologna-based Change2, on the other hand, through augmented reality and 3D configuration, detects the measurements of rings and bracelets by framing them with the smartphone. And the Alo Solutions software from Arezzo is used to create product photo shoots or professional videos directly from smartphones. Art&sofT, the digital agency from Valencia, brings to the fair its multilingual management software dedicated exclusively to the jewelery sector, integrated with business intelligence services to synchronize data from the physical store and e-commerce. The area dedicated to startups also includes Officina Orafa, from Calabria and with a new office in Rome, which presents its patented closure for modular and interchangeable necklaces and bracelets, and the Milanese Fortitudo Finance with a subsidized finance service aimed at goldsmith companies to obtain grants linked to innovation.
The Jewellery TrendBook 2022
The Jewellery TrendBook 2022

Technology, and in particular the effect of artificial intelligence, will also be at the center of the AI – Art Intelligence event of Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting, Ieg’s independent observatory on the world of jewelery, which presents The Jewelery on Saturday 9 September Trendbook 2025+, publication on emerging social phenomena and the evolution of consumption over the next 18 months. The event will see the presence of international speakers: Nadine Kanso, Creative Director, designer and founder of the jewelry brand Bil Arabi, with intricate shapes inspired by Arabic calligraphy; Stefano Russo, Creative Director and designer who has been in charge of Louis Vuitton eyewear design since 2008; Sienna O’Rourke, artist A.I. and creator of Planet Fantastique, a digital universe with a futuristic and at the same time retro aesthetic, in pastel shades; Lalla and Davide Busatti, co-founders and creative directors of the high jewelery maison Busatti 1947. Following, the presentation of The Jewelery TrendBook 2025+ by Paola De Luca, co-founder and Creative Director of Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting, with an overview on the trends of the near future of jewelry.
Spilla in titanio stampata 3D, con diamanti e berillo
3D printed titanium brooch, with diamonds and beryl

Always hi-tech at the heart of the seminar The coming revolution: artificial intelligence and its impact on the jewelery industry organized in collaboration with Cibjo, the World Jewelery Confederation. On Sunday 10 September several speakers will take turns on the stage of the Teatro Palladio including David Block, CEO of Sarine Technologies, a company that develops, produces and sells technologies for the diamond industry, Sara Yood, Deputy General Counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, Paola De Luca, co-founder and Creative Director of Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting, moderated by David Brough, editor and co-founder of the British magazine Jewelery Outlook.
Uffici di Ieg a Vicenzaoro
Italian Exhibition Group, Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The eight gold colors of Annamaria Cammilli

Annamaria Cammilli is the only Maison to offer gold jewelery with eight different shades.

There are those who bet everything on white gold, perhaps accompanied by a small diamond. There are those who expand the choice to the three classic colors of metal: yellow, pink and white. But only a Maison has expanded beyond these boundaries and has expanded the color palette of gold. With four? Nah. Five? Not even. Annamaria Cammilli had pushed herself up to seven colors of gold. Until yesterday. Because the brand from Florence has further expanded the color palette with Brown Chocolate. The colors of gold for which the brand is famous, in short, have become eight.

Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Natural Beige
Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Natural Beige

Gold changes color in exclusive shades that are the result of fusions of special alloys. But all colors are strictly 18 carat gold.

Anello della collezione Aqua in oro 18Kt Giallo Lemon Bamboo e Giallo Sunrise (al centro) con diamanti
Anello della collezione Aqua in oro 18Kt Giallo Lemon Bamboo e Giallo Sunrise (al centro) con diamanti

The eight gold colors proposed by Annamaria Cammilli are: Lemon Bamboo Yellow, Sunrise Yellow, Ice White, Champagne Pink, Brown Chocolate, Lava Black, Apricot Orange, Natural Beige.

Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Bianco Ice 18Kt con diamanti
Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Bianco Ice 18Kt con diamanti

The nuances introduced over the years by Annamaria Cammilli range from sunrise yellow to champagne pink, up to black, through white and natural beige. Even the new jewels in the chocolate shade use the classic finish of the surface of the satin gold, one of the distinctive signs of the Maison. The special work in which the brand is famous is also found in the new collections, which we will discuss in other articles on gioiellis.com. M.B.

Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Rosa Champagne con diamanti
Anello della collezione Premiere in oro Rosa Champagne con diamanti
Anello della collezione Serie Uno in oro Brown Chocolate con diamante
Anello della collezione Serie Uno in oro Brown Chocolate con diamante
Anello della serie Regina in oro Giallo Lemon Bamboo 18Kt con Brillanti
Anello della serie Regina in oro Giallo Lemon Bamboo 18Kt con Brillanti
Orecchini della collezione Premiere in oro Nero Lava con diamanti
Orecchini della collezione Premiere in oro Nero Lava con diamanti
Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Arancio Apricot
Orecchini della collezione Velvet in oro Arancio Apricot

Zag bijoux between two hemispheres

Roots in China, Parisian style, business in Australia: Michelle Zhang, together with her brother Hervé, launched the bijoux brand Zag in 2009. Raised in the heart of Paris, the designer offers a mix of all the places and cultures that cross the life of the family with bijoux made in surgical stainless steel (316 L) and plated with gold to make them hypoallergenic, nickel-free and resistant to oxidation. Gold plating is obtained by ionization, with a technique which consists in fixing the precious metal by spraying it on a jewel placed under vacuum. The steel is cut and laser engraved with a technique that allows you to make all kinds of shapes and engravings on rings, bracelets, pendants and earrings.

Anello con agata e cubic zirconia
Ring with agate and cubic zirconia

In addition to using metal composed of an alloy that incorporates more than 10.5% chromium, to increase resistance to oxidation and rust, the bijoux are also often made with semi-precious stones cut in the company’s laboratories in China. The bijoux brand, which sells online and in boutiques in Europe and Australia, has also landed at international fairs such as Vicenzaoro.
Anello con madreperla
Ring with mother of pearl

Collana con malachite
Necklace with malachite
Orecchini con malachite
Earrings with malachite
Orecchini con occhio di tigre
Tiger eye earrings
Orecchini con quarzo rosa
Earrings with rose quartz

Vicenzaoro is sold out

New previews of what will be Vicenzaoro September (8-12): it’s sold out and even the conference rooms have been occupied by exhibitors. The event dedicated to jewelery organized by Italian Exhibition Group will host over 1,200 exhibiting brands from 34 countries in the Vicenza exhibition center and brings together the entire gold and jewelery supply chain. Germany, Turkey, China, India and Thailand are the countries most represented by exhibiting brands from abroad, which cover around 40% of the area. Made in Italy will be represented as always by all the main districts (Arezzo, Vicenza, Valenza and Campania). 400 foreign buyers are expected also thanks to the support of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and ICE (public agency for export). The operators, Ieg points out, come in particular from the USA, the United Arab Emirates, Israel, China and ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) countries.

Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro September 2022. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For a sector, that of jewellery, which is running fast (in Italy in the first quarter of 2023 it shows a growth in turnover of 11.3%) Vicenzaoro also benefits from it: the exhibition space is sold-out, with several companies on the waiting list , in particular for the Icon community dedicated to high-end jewellery. For this Ieg has made available all the available spaces, including the conference rooms in pavilion 7.1 on the first floor of the exhibition centre, creating a reserved space.
Uffici di Ieg a Vicenzaoro
Ieg, Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Bracciale con diamanti per 24 carati e smeraldi per 47 carati. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Bracelet with diamonds for 24 carats and emeralds for 47 carats. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The time of watches with VO’Clock Privé

Together with Vicenzaoro (September 8-12) the time of watches returns. The idea of combining the large jewelery fair with a space for timepieces was confirmed by Ieg, the company that organizes the event. VO’Clock Privé (September 8-10), dedicated to watchmaking culture, is back. Unlike Vicenzaoro, VO’Clock Privé is open to all the public, experts and collectors. As in previous editions, exhibitors will be in the foyer on the first floor of the fairgrounds. The appointment alternates with the VO Vintage format, declined on the vintage watch. Within Vicenzaoro, Time is also confirmed, an area dedicated to watchmaking, but reserved (like the rest of Vicenzaoro) for operators.

Orologi a VO’Clock Privé
Watches at VO’Clock Privé. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The September edition of VO’Clock Privé offers itself as a platform for sharing and learning in the world of timepieces, through comparison and exchange between amateurs, experts and professionals in the sector. In addition to the exhibitors, there will be speeches by Tudor in conversation with Ander Ugarte, Head of Design of the house, talks by Zenith and Hublot, appointments with opinion leaders, collectors and watchmaking personalities such as Beppe Ambrosini and Bruno Bergamaschi (Giorgione). Also on the agenda is the event Italian watchmaking and its future hosted by Ugo Pancani, trainer of the Genevan FHH, with Sandro Fratini, Auro Montanari, Marco Mantovani. Technical sessions of the Zenith Watch Clinic under the guidance of expert watchmakers will serve to reveal the secrets of haute horlogerie.

Ingresso al foyer. Copyrigt: gioiellis.com
Entrance to the foyer. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The educational program offers tools and preparation for understanding the secrets and facets of watchmaking. Among the most awaited events, the official courses of the authoritative Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva stand out, among these the Watch Essential Course, open to enthusiasts of all levels who want a solid and complete knowledge base, also useful for embarking on a career in the haute horlogerie, and a new in-depth course on one of the most fascinating complications: Tourbillons.

Expertise su un orologio a VO Vintage
Expertise on a watch at VO Vintage

The prestigious Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (Ahci) was present with a selection of eight master watchmakers: Andersen Genève, Ludovic Ballouard, Sinclair Harding, Vincent Calabrese, Stefan Kudoke, Matthias Naeschke, Meccaniche Orologi Milano and the applicant Marc&Darnò. Furthermore, haute horlogerie with the mechanical and artistic marvels of Luca Soprana, Romeo Ferraris and A.Favre & Fils and emerging brands with a high creative content such as Kross Studio.

Orologi a Vo Vintage
Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The opportunities for enthusiasts to meet and try the most interesting watchmaking proposals multiply with the participation of many other brands, including Norqain, Speake Marin and Frederique Constant. The offer is completed by additional timepiece models presented by the top official dealers of the major brands with the most sought-after specimens by the public and connoisseurs.

Orologi nell'area Time di Vicenzaoro
Watches in the Vicenzaoro Time area

In Italy, the watch market is worth 2 billion euros (2022), up 9% on 2021. According to data from Assorologi and GfK, the watches purchased by the Italian consumer decreased in quantity by 5.6% compared to 2021, while they grew in value by 3.9%. The watchmaking channel, regardless of the nationality of the buyer, recorded a market of 4.3 million pieces (down by 5.8% on 2021) for a value of 1.3 billion euros (+6.5%).

Lavoro su orologi d'epoca a Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Work on period pieces at Vo Vintage. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Digital, pearls and trends at Vicenzaoro September

Sometimes the side dish turns out to be as tasty as the main food on the plate. This is, at least, the intent of the events that enrich the experience of Vicenzaoro visitors. Also the next edition in September (8-12) will have a side dish of training events or pleasant entertainment. For this reason Ieg, the company that organizes Vicenzaoro, anticipates the topics that will be covered during conferences, workshops or presentations. The announced focuses concern new technologies for the gold-jewellery industry, virtual reality, and the Nft phenomenon, it is not known how much appreciated by those who really produce jewels, apps and 3D viewers. More generally, the impact of digital on design, traceability, logistics, customer experience.

Vicenzaoro, visitors. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vicenzaoro, visitors. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Following this trend, the new Trendbook 2025+ by Trendvision Jewelery + Forecasting, the independent Ieg Observatory directed by Paola De Luca, will be presented. Club degli Orafi and the studies and research department of Intesa Sanpaolo will instead update the scenario on the Italian gold sector between Made in Italy and international markets. A sector that continues a widespread strengthening on the main international outlet markets and which, in the first quarter of 2023, achieved exports of over 2 billion euros according to the Intesa Sanpaolo Study Center.
Operatori a Vicenzaoro January
Vicenzaoro buyers

Also scheduled is an appointment with Cibjo (acronym of World Jewelery Confederation, in French Confédération Internationale de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie des Diamants, Perles et Pierres), with a seminar on the protection of intellectual property for jewels and watches with the experience of organizations active in the fight against counterfeiting. In collaboration with Igi, the Italian Gemological Institute, the Gem Talks will be back, training meetings for operators. With the contribution of Jpea (Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association) and the cooperation of Japan External Trade Organization, there will be a focus on the pearl market and, in particular, of the Japanese Akoya, the most popular due to their high gloss, with the contribution by Cibjo Pearl Commission and Mikimoto. Furthermore, an in-depth study on the diamond in the natural and lab grown jewelery market, a seminar on the world of coral and the Retail Talks that Federpreziosi Confcommercio will address to retailers are planned.

Collana di Vittorio Fiorentino con corallo e diamanti indossata a Vicenzaoro
Necklace by Vittorio Fiorentino with coral and diamonds worn at Vicenzaoro
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