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Sotheby’s sells a collection of 250 jewels

Published on March 16, 2024

René Boivin, Sapphire and emerald demi parure Algues, circa 1962

Great jewels return to Geneva with the Sotheby’s auction scheduled for May 14th. The auction includes an extraordinary jewelery collection of over 250 pieces of the highest quality, assembled by a passionate European collector over fifty years: it is one of the most important private collections of designer jewelery ever put up for auction. This is why the sale was entitled Iconic Jewels: Her Sense Of Style.

René Boivin, Sapphire and diamond demi parure Feuilles, circa 1947

When you come across a jewellery collection as consistently stunning and substantial as Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style, it’s a heart-stopping moment – the kind you know you’ll never forget. This collection, with its many, many dazzling signed jewels from the most beloved and sought-after design periods in jewellery history, is truly one of a kind and one of the most important private jewellery collections I’ve ever seen. It is an incredibly powerful and sophisticated love letter to jewellery from an enlightened private collector which I know will inspire other collectors and connoisseurs all around the world.
Marie-Cécile Cisamolo, jewelery specialist, Sotheby’s Geneva

The collection is estimated at between 4.7 and 7.3 million Swiss francs (i.e. between 5.4 million and 8.3 million dollars) and will be offered in two sales sessions: 46 jewels will be offered on May 14th in the sale of Magnificent Jewels, during the Sotheby’s Luxury Sales in Geneva. Another 200 pieces, however, will be sold online from May 2nd with offers closing on May 16th.

Bulgari, a Serpenti bracelet watch, aka Theodorus

The selection is a tribute to 20th century jewelry design and an encyclopedic showcase of its most iconic pieces and most influential trends, exemplified by creations from the most prestigious jewelry houses including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Boucheron, Chaumet , David Webb, Mauboussin, Marina B, Sterlé and Mellerio dits Meller. A special place, with 30 jewels, is reserved for the Maison founded by one of the designers who made the history of jewellery: René Boivin. Famous for his intricately crafted and brightly colored jewels, Boivin’s style has exerted great fascination on the private collector who, over time, has purchased what may be the largest selection of works by the French jeweller.

Bulgari, orecchini, con incastonati due diamanti Fancy Intense Yellow del peso di poco meno di 10 carati ciascuno appartenuti alla Baronessa di Portanova — Bulgari, earrings, set with two Fancy Intense Yellow diamonds weighing just under 10 carats each, belonging to the Baroness of Portanova

The most precious pieces
Among the top lots there are creations by Bulgari, including an exceptional pair of earrings, set with two Fancy Intense Yellow diamonds weighing just under 10 carats each and previously belonging to the legendary Baroness of Portanova (estimate 400,000-600,000 francs). American socialite. Presented alongside the imposing pair of earrings is a rare Serpenti Theodorus bracelet watch, accompanied by an original drawing from the Bulgari archive dated 1968 (200,000-400,000).

Cartier, bracciale Panthère — Cartier, Panthère bracelet

Other iconic pieces include those from Cartier, including a 1969 Panthère bracelet (250,000-350,000) and an exquisite Tutti Frutti bracelet (200,000-400,000), a choker and earring set by Marina B, intricately set with carved amethyst ( 30,000-50,000), as well as a transformable Passe-Partout set from the 1940s by Van Cleef & Arpels consisting of a necklace, three brooches and a pair of clip earrings (80,000-120,000).

Van Cleef & Arpels, Passe partout necklace, brooch and earring suite

Sold out for Habsburg jewels

Published on November 8, 2023

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Devant-de-Corsage di Biedermann con la spettacolare perla naturale e diamanti

The Habsburg court still arouses great fascination. Thus, after weeks of touring around the world, Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection has arrived at auction at Sotheby’s Geneva. Result: 100% of lots sold, with over 82% above the high estimate. The collection brought in over 9.6 million Swiss francs, exceeding its estimate by more than three times.
The extraordinary collection included 207 lots of jewels spanning two centuries of European and noble history, which appeared at auction for the first time. Sotheby’s collaborated with Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH to bring this collection to auction.

Spilla con diamanti e perle — A superb natural pearl and diamond brooch by Emil Biedermann, circa 1865

Rediscovered earlier this year in a German bank safe, the most important and largest collection of Viennese imperial and royal jewels ever put up for auction boasted provenance from all the most important European royal houses linked to the Austrian dynasty of Habsburg, offering an extraordinary journey through the jewels of the lives of Central Europe’s most influential ruling families during the 19th and early 20th centuries.

A highly important and historical diamond brooch by Köchert, circa 1887, from the collection of Wilhelm, Duke of Württemberg

The top lot was Biedermann’s Devant-de-Corsage with the spectacular natural pearl and diamond, which reached 1 million francs (against a high estimate of 450,000). The unsigned mid-19th century garnet parure comprising a tiara, necklace and three stud earrings, after a flurry of bidding, sold for 88,900 crabs (over 25 times its high estimate).

Margherita Merenghi Vasell wearing Wilhelm Haarstrick suite of diamond brooches

The auction was also a celebration of the two best Austrian jewelers of the 19th century, Emil Biedermann and Köchert, who produced jewelery mainly for the court. Köchert still trades today. With the reemergence of the collection after decades safely hidden, the magnificence of their exquisitely crafted creations was on display during this sale, capturing the interest of dozens of bidders and winning many lots.

Victoire de Pourtales wearing Köchert Superb ruby and diamond necklace tiara, Vienna 1900

Habsburg jewels up for auction with Sotheby’s

Published on September 15, 2023

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For lovers of jewels belonging to royal families, November 6 and 7 presents a great opportunity: Sotheby’s is auctioning in Geneva a private collection of jewels from royal houses linked to the Austrian Habsburg dynasty. The auction is entitled Vienna 1900: an imperial and royal collection and precedes the classic Magnificent Jewels sale scheduled for November 8th. The blue-blooded collection includes more than 200 jewels which, according to what has been disclosed, were recently rediscovered hidden in a bank vault. A somewhat mysterious origin, in short. In any case, according to Sotheby’s the sale represents the most impressive set of Viennese royal jewels ever offered at auction.

Ornamento per corpetto appartenuto all'arciduchessa Maria Teresa d'Austria-Teschen (1845-1927), in perle naturali e diamanti — Bodice ornament that belonged to Archduchess Maria Theresa of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927), in natural pearls and diamonds

This collection is undoubtedly the most important auction of Noble Jewels after the historic auction of the Royal Jewels of the Bourbon-Parma Family, held by Sotheby’s in Geneva four years ago. The collection is truly exceptional and boasts a unique combination of magnificent ceremonial court jewelry worn by women of Europe’s elite and royal families, as well as a major assemblage of men’s dress accessories, watches, cigarette cases and objets de vertu.
Andres White Correal, Vice President and Senior Director of Jewelery at Sotheby’s

Tre stelle di diamanti che possono essere indossate come spille, forcine per capelli o su una cornice di tiara — Three diamond stars that can be worn as brooches, hairpins or on a tiara frame

The collection on sale also has historical importance: it also testifies to the jewelry trends and styles embodied by the Houses of Habsburg, Bourbon-Parma, Bourbon-Two Sicilies and Saxe-Coburg-Gotha. The auction catalog lists jewels from the collections of Archduchess Margherita Sofia of Austria (1870-1902), Archduchess Maria Immacolata of Austria-Tuscany (1878-1968), Archduchess Maria Teresa of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927), Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria (1861-1948), and Princess Maria Luisa of Bourbon-Parma (1870-1899). The centerpiece appears to be a bodice ornament that belonged to Archduchess Maria Theresa of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927), in natural pearls and diamonds, received as a wedding gift in 1865. Also on sale are pieces such as the Pearl Tiara natural and diamond stars created by Viennese court jeweler Köchert and a suite of three diamond stars that can be worn as brooches, hairpins or on a tiara frame.

Collana con quattro fili di perle — Necklace with four strands of pearls

Tiara fino Ottocento con diamanti e perle — Tiara from the nineteenth century with diamonds and pearls

Collana rivière con diamanti — Rivière necklace with diamonds

Spilla con diamanti e rubini — Brooch with diamonds and rubies

Ruby record of 34.8 million

Published on June 8, 2023

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Here is the most expensive ruby in the world: it is called Estrela de Fura and was sold in New York by Sotheby’s for 34.8 million dollars during the Magnificent Jewels auction. The stone weighs 55.22 carats and is the largest gem-quality ruby ever to appear at auction. The previous world record was held by the Sunrise Ruby, a 25.59 carat Burmese one also beaten by Sotheby’s in Geneva, in May 2015, for 30.3 million dollars.

Estrela de Fura was made from a rough ruby weighing an exceptional 101 carats, discovered and extracted in July 2022 in the Fura Gems ruby mine in Montepuez (Mozambique), one of the largest ruby deposits in the world. Its quality makes it a particularly rare ruby.

The outstanding result obtained today is not only a source of pride for us, but represents a milestone in the incredible journey of our company which, in just five years, has grown in an extraordinary way. Today, thanks to Estrela de Fura, we have gone down in history: we have set a new world record by selling the largest and most precious colored stone ever presented at an auction. With its 55.22 carats Estrela de Fura is a true wonder of nature, a sensational stone, with perfect color and exceptional clarity that fully represents the extraordinary quality of Mozambique rubies and sets a significant precedent for Mozambique rubies, elevating them to the state of those Burmese. This stone was a gift of nature for Fura, a gift that is granted only once in a lifetime, an acknowledgment of the hard work that the whole team carries out every day. On this occasion they cannot fail to thank the communities and the Government of Mozambique for their continuous support.
Dev Shetty, Founder and CEO of Fura Gems

Fura Gems is a mining company active in the extraction and marketing of colored gemstones rubies, emeralds and sapphires, founded just five years ago. It is headquartered in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, and has over 1,600 employees on all continents. It operates with three operating branches in Colombia, Mozambique and Australia, for emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Fura will donate 2% of the proceeds from the sale to the creation of the Fura Training Academy in support of the community in which it operates in Mozambique.

We witnessed a historic sale: a ruby from Mozambique as well as one of the most extraordinary and important stones ever beaten at an auction. Estrela de Fura 55.22 literally leaves you enraptured. With its unprecedented size, its extraordinary color and the extremely rare degree of transparency and purity, it set a new world record and has today officially become the most legendary colored stone in the world.
Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby’s Jewelry, America

Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby's Jewelry -Americas &- Emea, versees sale of Estrela de Fura — Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby’s Jewelry -Americas &- Emea, versees sale of Estrela de Fura

The Eternal Pink and other jewels

Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction also had other exceptional pieces up for sale, such as The Eternal Pink, the most vivid pink diamond to ever hit the market, which sold for 34.8 million. In total, the auction reached $95.9 million, the highest figure ever for any jewelry auction ever organized by Sotheby’s in New York. It was also the first auction with two gems selling for over $30 million in the same sale. 91% of all lots found buyers, with over two-thirds of lots sold fetching prices above their high estimates. The sign of the times: more than a third of the lots were purchased online.

Today’s record result is a direct reflection and further confirmation of Sotheby’s position as the market leader at the top level of the global jewelery industry. We are honored to have brought to auction this exceptional selection of jewels, anchored by several private collections with historic provenances, which includes high quality diamonds, superlative colored gemstones and designer jewelery from the most esteemed houses. We look forward to continuing in our tradition of offering the rarest and most spectacular jewels to our worldwide clientele; this remains at the heart of what we do at Sotheby’s.
Catharine Becket, Head of Magnificent Jewels, New York

The Eternal Pink was the other major attraction of the auction. The vivid pink diamond set a new record price per carat of $3,292,763, which is now the second-highest price per carat for a pink diamond, just after the Williamson Pink Star, which sold for $57.7 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in October 2022.

Among the other magnificent jewels on sale were 11 pieces from the collection of Constance Prosser Mellon and Constance Barber Mellon, sold at 100% for a total of 6.9 million. The collection included a sapphire and diamond ring by Cartier, which fetched $3.3 million after a lengthy five-minute battle between eight bidders. Weighing 33.51 carats, this extremely rare sapphire is of classic Burmese origin, has no indication of heating, and possesses a royal blue color. Also from the Constance Prosser collection, a magnificent sapphire and diamond necklace created by Cartier in the 1950s has found a buyer for $2.8 million. The necklace is set with five Kashmiri sapphires, totaling approximately 34.95 carats, and is further accented with round, baguette and square cut diamonds.

The Bulgari Laguna Blu sold at Sotheby’s for 25 million

Published on May 17, 2023

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Bulgari Laguna Blu and Priyanka Chopra Jonas

A $25 million blue diamond. This is what an anonymous buyer paid over the phone for the Bulgari Laguna Blu, auctioned by Sotheby’s in Geneva. The sale of Magnificent Jewels totaled $85 million, the highest value since May 2018 at the Geneva Jewelery Sales. The 11.16-carat fancy-vivid blue diamond is now the largest blue diamond in a Bulgari jewel and the most valuable Bulgari gem ever offered for sale.

Bulgari Laguna Blu, 11,16 ct — Bulgari Laguna Blu, Fancy Vivid, 11,16 ct

Created in 1970 by Bulgari as a ring, when Bulgari was emerging as the most influential and innovative Italian high jewelery house, diamond is a rarity: it is an 11.16-carat Fancy Vivid blue, among the rarest gems in the world, it is a Bulgari signed jewel, and is unmodified, meaning that its current cut, produced in 1970, could be further enhanced by modern cutting methods to unleash its full potential as a gem.

Quig Bruning, Head of Sotheby’s Jewels Americas

It has been a privilege to witness the glamorous and exciting journey of the Bulgari Blue Lagoon over the past few months, knowing it was first created in 1970, up until its most recent appearance at the Met Gala where it dazzled on the red carpet, set in a Bulgari custom made necklace worn by Priyanka Chopra Jones. So, it is a special moment to see the journey of this extraordinary gem take yet another new turn, this evening in our auction room, into the hands of its first new owner in over 50 years. The Blue Lagoon sale surpasses the outstanding performance of our Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale which saw exceptional colored gemstones, particularly emeralds and yellow diamonds, surpass their high estimates, so spectacularly. There is no doubt that the Fine jewelry of the highest quality can still fetch sky-high prices.
Olivier Wagner, Head of Jewellery, Sotheby’s Geneva

Impressive Fancy Intense Pink and Fancy Deep Grayish Blue diamond ring

Sotheby’s Geneva’s auction saw over half (53.4%) of all lots sold above the high estimate and virtually all lots sold fetched prices within or above the estimates (97%).

The Bulgari Laguna Blu was auctioned last in the second session of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, following a series of spectacular sales of designer jewelery and exceptional gemstones. After a four-minute bidding battle between three telephone bidders and one bidder in the room, he finally found a buyer over the phone.

Harry Winston, Impressive padparadscha sapphire and diamond necklace

Colored gemstones, and especially colored designer jewelry, had a stellar night with nearly a quarter of all lots selling above already high estimates, led by sales of yellow ruby, emerald, sapphire and diamond jewelry and rose. For example, a Fancy Intense Pink and Fancy Deep Grayish Diamond ring was sold for $11.7 million, purchased by Diacore. The same company was awarded another Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond ring, for 1.3 million.

Sotheby’s jewelry at auction with Elizabeth von Thurn and Taxis

Published on October 29, 2019

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Collana con zaffiri e diamanti di Bulgari

Princess Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis wears super jewels for Sotheby’s auction ♦ ︎

He spent his childhood in the grand palace with 500 rooms of St Emmeram in Regensburg, Bavaria. Inside, Princess Elizabeth von Thurn and Taxis she grew up along with her mother’s large contemporary art collection, Princess Mariae Gloria. Nobility, art, wealth. It is no surprise that Sotheby’s now asked Elizabeth von Thurn and Taxis to wear the Magnificent Jewels that will go to the auction in Geneva on November 13th.

Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby's) — Elizabeth von Thurn und Taxis indossa una spilla e e una tiara con diamanti e smeraldi (immagine dal catalogo Sotheby’s)

Among the 450 pieces on sale there are period jewels, from the 1920s, but also contemporary ones. We have already talked about the Art Deco bracelet made by Cartier in 1927, set with a Burmese sapphire cabochon weighing 46.07 carats and two diamonds of 8.60 and 9.27 carats.

Read also: A sapphire for Sotheby’s

Bracciale di Cartier con zaffiri e diamanti

Also with the precious blue stone, a fan-shaped 1937 Cartier brooch is made, with a cushion-cut sapphire of 9.09 carats, other sapphires of different sizes, and brilliant-cut diamonds and baguette. Equally precious, again by Cartier, is a tiara-necklace from the 1930s. The central panel is detachable, pierced, between a graduated series of palmettes and arrowhead motifs, set with circular cut and cushion-shaped diamonds. In addition to turning into a necklace, the central element can be detached and transformed into a brooch.

Spilla di diamanti e zaffiri, Cartier, 1937

And always by Cartier, dated 1227, are the emerald pendant / brooch and an imposing seventies necklace, also of emeralds and diamonds. A Bulgari necklace, also from the Seventies, with diamonds and sapphires is also very strong. Collector stones are not missing: the top is a 3 carat blue diamond mounted on a ring. It is estimated at between 7 and 4.7 million Swiss francs. For contemporary jewelery, there are the Jar-signed earrings with amethyst, Ceylon sapphire and diamonds. Federico Graglia

Tiara di diamanti trasformabile in collana di Cartier

Orecchini a clip con ametista e zaffiri di Jar

Shaun Lean at Sotheby’s

Published on October 18, 2017

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Shaun Lean’s jewels, for long time designer in tune with Alexander McQueen, in auction by Sotheby’s ♦ ︎
Shaun Leane is a British jewelery designer known for his sculptural pieces created for Alexander McQueen. His jewelery brand won four times the award as the designer of the year in Great Britain. Soon, he will have an additional stage: Sotheby’s has decided to sell pieces of Shaun Leane’s personal archive as a reference point for the A Life of Luxury auction, to be held on December 4 in New York.
The collection has been created by British designer for more than 20 years. In particular, the evening’s sale will feature more than 45 pieces created for fashion designer, including legendary Alexander McQueen and Givenchy, as well as Honourable Daphne Guinness, Isabella Blow, Kate Moss, and Sarah Jessica Parker. From the Immaculate Contra Mundum Evening Glove for Daphne Guinness, inspired by an armor, to the iconic Crown of Thorns, the Fall Winter Collection McQueen, from the Dante collection, which was exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum and the Victoria & Albert Museum in 2011 and 2015, the selection shows the remarkable dynamism and the remarkable diversity of Leane’s creative vision.
The collection will be visible to the public from Sotheby’s, New York, from November 30th. The jewels are estimated in a range from $ 2,000 to $ 400,000. “I am excited to collaborate with Sotheby’s and Kerry Taylor in this very special sale,” Sheane commented. “I think the collection represents a level of creative freedom that is not parallel today when jewelry, performance art and fashion blend into one.”
“This is a historical collection, many of the pieces offered for sale were previously only seen behind the showcases in the great museums. Shaun Leane’s fashion jewelery and bodyculture are not just icons, but have contributed to some of McQueen’s most memorable moments. They were worn on the model walkway like Kate Moss, Erin O’Connor, and Stella Tennant. Those lucky enough to buy the pieces on the auction will not only have a unique piece of art but also a bit of fashion history.”
Londoner, Leane began studying jewelery at the age of 15. A year later, he started an apprenticeship of seven years. In the early 1990s, Leane met with Lee Alexander McQueen, a student at Central Saint Martin’s College. Under the influence of McQueen, Shaun has experimented with materials such as silver, brass and aluminum and founded his label, Shaun Leane, in 1999. The two designers collaborated for eight collections per year for 17 years, completed in February 2010 with the tragic suicide of McQueen. Federico Graglia

Coiled Corset, Photo: Courtesy Sotheby's — Coiled Corset, Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s

Alexander McQueen con Sarah Jessica Parker. Photo: Rex Features

Another Porcupine Quill Earrings. Photo: Courtesy Shaun Leane

Tusk Anklet. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby's — Tusk Anklet. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s

Thistle Brooch. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby's — Thistle Brooch. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s

Skeleton Corset. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby's — Skeleton Corset. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s

Porcupine Quill Earrings. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby's — Porcupine Quill Earrings. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s

Large Shell Earrings. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby's — Large Shell Earrings. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s

Crown of Thorns. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby's — Crown of Thorns. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s

Hong Kong Tutti Frutti

Published on September 19, 2017

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Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong with Magnificent Jewels by Cartier, Jar and Van Cleef & Arpels ♦ ︎
The Magnificent Jewels return, this time with the addition of jadeite. The jade, in fact, can not miss a jewelry auction in Hong Kong and Sotheby’s takes into account the preferences of its customers in Asia. But, of course, the sale scheduled on October 3 does not only include jewelery made in jade. There are also pieces of exceptional interest, such as a rare Cartier Art Deco bracelet, of the Tutti Frutti series: it is valued at between 1.35 and 1.79 million dollars.
For collectors is a Jar-signed ring, an eclectic jewelry artist. This is a ruby ring of 8.49 carats: a big stone, although the jewel has no design that can be attributed immediately to the creativity of Joel Arthur Rosenthal. It may have more impact the parure by Cleef & Arpels, with diamonds and emeralds: rings, earrings, and necklace will be sell with an estimated $ 2 to $ 3 million, but it would not be surprising if this rating was overcome. Federico Graglia

Anello firmato Jar con rubino di 8,49 carati

Collana di diamanti e zaffiri firmata Harry Winston

Parure di Van Ckeef & Arpels in diamanti e smeraldi

Spilla con diamante fancy yellow e diamanti bianchi

Anello Toi et Moi con rubino a forma di cuscino di 6 carati e diamante di 4,25 carati

Dior in auction from Sotheby’s

Published on July 27, 2017

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Chocker stile Masai in ottone dorato, disegnato da John Galliano

Christian Dior’s fashion jewelry on display and auction online from Sotheby’s Paris ♦ ︎
Dior is one of the great brands of fashion, but also of jewelery. Now it also becomes the first Maison to go online in a sale of Sotheby’s France. The auction concerns a private collection of Christian Dior Jewelery and will be on sale from September 20 to October 4, 2017. It is a date that also coincides with the 70th anniversary of Maison Dior. The pieces will be exhibited at the Charpentier Gallery in Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris, for a direct view. Many of these pieces have been revolutionary for the years in which they were made. As in the case of the Masai style collier in golden brass, presented by John Galliano in the spring-summer 1998. Among the jewels, there are also pieces signed by famous fashion designers who worked for Dior, such as Gianfranco Ferré and Marc Bohan, as well as Galliano. In all, 200 pieces are cataloged, with the most diverse inspirations: from Oriental or Exotic to those with a more modern style.
The exhibition opens on September 28-30 and October 2 at Sotheby’s, Paris. The sale opens on September 20th. Federico Graglia