Londra

Ingo Henn, luxury and surprises

Stones, volumes, romanticism and rationality: the jewelry of Ingo Henn with his Henn of London ♦

Ingo Henn belongs to the category of those who wanted to design jewelry since childhood. Not only that: as a child he loved the big colored stones. And he made it a profession. The designer, of German origin, but transplanted to London, uses precious stones with unique colors. Let’s face it all: it is the son of Hans-Jürgen Henn, one of the main gem dealers. As a good German, Ingo has done things right: he studied the profession of goldsmith (gemmology has learned at home), has traveled, has known techniques and designers at the highest level.

Anello con tormalina paraiba del Mozambico, diamanti, platino
Anello con tormalina paraiba del Mozambico, diamanti, platino

In the mid-nineties he decided to have learned what was necessary and founded his brand in the jewelery district of Hatton Garden, in London. The jewelry is right next to the offices of the company that trades in gems. Germanic rationality. But this does not prevent Ingo Henn from developing some of the most romantically eclectic jewels of our century, with his Maison, Henn of London. Precious stones of refined color and quality, but combined with a precious design for the combination of colors and surprising use of volumes. His jewels are unique pieces, designed around the color and type of stone used.

Pendente in oro giallo, con granati mandarino, diamanti e smalto
Pendente in oro giallo, con granati mandarino, diamanti e smalto
Pendente in oro bianco con tanzanite intagliata a mano da 57,45 carati, diamanti, smalto
Pendente in oro bianco con tanzanite intagliata a mano da 57,45 carati, diamanti, smalto
Pendente con topazio rosa, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco
Pendente con topazio rosa, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco
Pendente con acquamarina Santa Maria intagliata (non riscaldata), diamanti e oro bianco
Pendente con acquamarina Santa Maria intagliata (non riscaldata), diamanti e oro bianco
Orecchini con tanzaniti ovali, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco 18 carati
Orecchini con tanzaniti ovali, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco 18 carati

Glenn Spiro, fantasy of titanium

The creations in titanium (and not only) of the London brand G by Glenn Spiro

The London jeweler Glenn Spiro in 2016 opened the new atelier of G, his brand, in the former salon of fashion designer Sir Norman Hartnell, in the heart of Mayfair. It occupies the first floor of a Georgian-style building, designed in 1930 by architect Gerald Lacoste, with walls upholstered mirrors and chair signed by Marco Zanuso. They are in line with the stylistic choices of the designers choice, following the absolute British tradition.

Orecchini in titanio color turchese e diamanti Wavy Heart
Turquoise titanium Wavy Heart diamond earrings

Which, as noted, it includes a good dose of originality. Born in east London into a family of modest means, Spiro left school at 15 to follow vocational training courses with which he learned the art of jewelry making. After a stint as a goldsmith in Hatton Garden, he opened a laboratory in Farringdon, east London, when he was 21 years old. All recognize him two qualities: eye for judging the exquisite stones and his gab. Both of these aspects are useful in the jeweler profession. Along the first years of his work he was mainly produce for other big brands. Then, he won his audience thanks to unusual jewelery creations (you can see some examples in these images). Pieces are often one-of-a-kind, in many cases created thanks to the ability to use titanium, also in the colored version, as lightweight and durable metal with which incur significant stones. The effect is stunning. On the other hand, in jewelry the unconventionality is the most traditional way of life.

Anello in oro rosa e diamanti
Ring in rose gold and diamonds

Anello Papillon in titanio, oro bianco, rubini e diamanti
Papillon ring in titanium, white gold, rubies and diamonds
Orecchini Foglie d'autunno con smeraldi e diamanti
Autumn leaves earrings with emeralds and diamonds
Orecchini conchiglia con diamanti e oro bianco
Shell earrings with diamonds and white gold
Orologio con diamanti e zaffiri: il quadrante è nascosto da petali che si aprono per mostrare le lancette
Watch with diamonds and sapphires: the dial is hidden by petals that open to reveal the hands
Anello con rubini e diamante
Ring with rubies and diamond
Orecchini lisca di pesce, con diamanti e rubini
Fishbone earrings, with diamonds and rubies

Hannah Martin, pride and Rock N ‘Roll

The limited edition of fine jewelry by Hannah Martin, in London ♦

The Central St Martins School in London deserves a medal (in gold, of course) to be an inexhaustible factory of high-level designers. One is Hannah Martin (almost the same name of the school, coincidentally), who started working as a consultant for other luxury brands in Paris, Place Vendôme area. Inevitably, then she harnessed her capacity with a brand that bears her name, along with business partner, Nathan Morse.

Piercing in oOro giallo 18 carati con perla marrone di Tahiti e diamanti champagne
Piercing in oOro giallo 18 carati con perla marrone di Tahiti e diamanti champagne

In 2005 she founded in London her brand. Her philosophy, a little ‘surprise, it’s based on three pillars which at first glance are not all connected with the jewelry: authenticity, creativity and honesty. Three important values, as essential stylistic choices, combined with the focus on the technical aspects of implementation. Many pieces are made to order, others are limited editions. Each piece is handmade by the best craftsmen in London, in the laboratory of the company or through an intricate network of specialists in Hatton Garden “We are unabashedly proud of our direct link with the historic nature of the trade,” is the comment by Hannah Martin. The results give the reason. As the It’s Only Rock N ‘Roll collection, which has its references from the idea of ​​a youth style.

Anello Teardrop in oro
Gold teardrop ring
Piercing Teardrop in oro
Gold teardrop piercing
Ciondolo in oro bianco e diamanti
White gold and diamonds
Hannah Martin a GemGenève
Hannah Martin. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The precious dreams of Morphée

The refined collections of Morphée Joaillerie.

Morpheus is a myth associated with sleep, peace and tranquility. But in the jewelery shop he evokes a Parisian Maison («a few steps from the famous Place Vendôme») that wants to «crystallize the dreams of mankind through the use of gold and precious stones». Morphée Joaillerie, on the other hand, arose from the dreams of Belgian designer Pamela Hastry. Her jewels are limited edition, just like the wishes that can be realized, but with the possibility of producing them to measure. Pamela learned her trade in London, refined it in Rome, and sells it in Paris. Ah, Pamela Hastry is also a gemologist. In short, a first class trip.

Orecchini della collezione Florealis in oro, diamanti, tormalina rosa. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earrings from the Florealis collection in gold, diamonds, pink tourmaline. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Skilled French artisans transform her ideas into collections based on cherry blossoms, butterflies, buttercups and forget-me-nots. But also Make a Wish or Millésime. If the ingredients on Morphée’s menu are not surprising (gold, precious stones), the lightness and composition of the individual pieces are completely original. A symbolic collection, in the high jewelery line, is Florealis, which uses diamonds and rubellite for jewels inspired by the delicate and complicated patterns of flowers. The Maison also recently renewed its website.
Morphee Joaillerie bracciale a fascia diamanti bianchi e fancy gialli copyright gioiellis
Morphée Joaillerie, band bracelet with white and yellow diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Bracciale a fascia con diamanti bianchi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Band bracelet with white diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello della collezione Florealis con diamanti e rubellite. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring from the Florealis collection with diamonds and rubellite. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Collana della collezione Florealis. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Necklace from the Florealis collection. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini doppi con diamanti e tormaline rosa. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Double earrings with diamonds and pink tourmalines. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini con diamanti fancy gialli. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earrings with fancy yellow diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Tessa Packard, british style

Alongside traditional jewels, Tessa Packard surprises with precious but also fun creations

Tessa Packard is the creative director of the brand that she founded in 2013 and that in a short time has climbed the ranking of trendy jewelers. You often make slightly eccentric pieces, such as her Fried Egg earrings, made of white gold, diamonds, yellow agate and white topaz (price: 15,000 pounds). She describes her formula as “good design and narrative integrity”. She introduces a new collection every six months, but she has also specialized in the production of bespoke jewelry, both for individual clients and for other companies.

Rock Pool earring in oro bianco, ottone ossidato, rodio nero, smalto e citrino
18ct white gold verdigris brass, black rhodium, white enamel and citrine crab earrings

In short, creative imagination together with creativity in business. Tessa also rightly points out that she often participates as a speaker in numerous workshops dedicated to the role of women in the world of work. In any case, her production is liked: in 2015 the Maison was nominated for one of the 30 Hot Under 30 faces in the jewelry sector. And to say that Tessa is totally self-taught. She was born in Brazil but raised in Great Britain. She studied Fine Arts and Art History at university before launching herself into London’s commercial art world. But she moved from art galleries to jewelry.

She is keen to point out that all of her jewelery is handcrafted and finished in the UK. Another unconventional aspect concerns the use of plastic materials, such as lucite, alongside traditional gold and precious stones. Lucite, for example, was extremely popular for jewelry in the 1950s and 1960s, with several companies specializing in creating high quality pieces with this material. Lucite beads and ornaments are still sold by jewelry suppliers, which Tessa transforms into original jewelry.

Bracciale in oro giallo e acquamarina del Mozambico
Bracelet in yellow gold and Mozambique aquamarine

Another unconventional aspect concerns the use of plastic materials, such as lucite, alongside the traditional gold and precious stones. Lucite, for example, was extremely popular for jewelry in the 1950s and 1960s, with several companies specializing in creating high-quality pieces with this material. Lucite beads and ornaments are still sold by jewelry suppliers, which Tessa processes into original jewelry.

Anello Manhattan in oro 18 carati, lapislazzuli
Manhattan ring in 18K gold, lapis lazuli
Collana in oro giallo 18 carati, argento brunito, perle e diamanti con nappa staccabile
Necklace in 18K yellow gold, burnished silver, pearls and diamonds with detachable tassel
Orecchini in oro bianco 18 carati, quarzo rosa, onice, ossidiana e maialino in porcellana dipinta
Earrings in 18K white gold, rose quartz, onyx, obsidian and painted porcelain piglet
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, ottone, corallo, plastica, carta da parati vintage e pesci in resina
Earrings in 18K yellow gold, brass, coral, plastic, vintage wallpaper and resin fish
Orecchini in lucite
Lucite earrings
Orecchini pendenti in oro giallo 18 carati, diamanti e tormalina anguria
Pendant earrings in 18K yellow gold, diamonds and watermelon tourmaline
Tessa Packard, orecchini Fried Eggs
Tessa Packard, Fried Eggs earrings

Queen Victoria’s love crown

The story of Queen Victoria’s most loved crown and designed by her husband, Prince Albert. It is now exhibited at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London ♦ ︎

Do the jewels of the British royal house fascinate you? Here is an opportunity not to be missed: the Victoria & Albert Museum in London exhibits one of Queen Victoria’s most beloved jewels, a small crown with sapphires and diamonds. The reason why Queen Victoria loved this crown is that it was designed by her husband, prince Albert. The crown is the most prized piece of gallery named to William e Judith Bollinger. William Bollinger is an Irish-American millionaire of hedge funds, his wife is Judith.

La corona appartenuta alla regina Vittoria, con zaffiri e diamanti
The crown that belonged to Queen Victoria, with sapphires and diamonds

The Victoria & Albert Museum has one of the most beautiful and complete jewelry collections in the world: over 3,000 jewels, from antiquity to the present day. Among these there are also particularly fine pieces, including a golden Celtic armor, pendants donated by Elizabeth I to her courtiers, diamonds worn by Catherine Grande of Russia, jewels of the art nouveau designer Réné Lalique, Cartier tiaras and contemporary works by Wendy Ramshaw, Peter Chang and Marjorie Schick.

La regina Vittoria con la corona indossata sulla nuca, nel ritratto di Franz Xaver Winterhalter
Queen Victoria with the crown worn on the back of her neck, in the portrait by Franz Xaver Winterhalter

The little crown of the queen

The crown of Queen Victoria is very flexible, it can be folded back and forth: its size is almost that of a diadem, but a little wider. The jewel was designed by the queen’s wife, Albert, in 1840, the year of the couple’s marriage. It was then materially made by Joseph Kitching, of Kitching and Abud, jewelers of the queen. In 1842 Victoria wore the crown on the occasion of a portrait by Franz Xaver Winterhalter. The chaplet was very important to Victoria, because it reminded her of her husband, who died in 1861. Five years later, still mourning the death of Albert, Victoria chose that little crown, instead of the official one, to open the Parliament.

La regina Vittoria con il marito Albert, ritratto circa 1840
Queen Victoria with her husband Albert, portrait circa 1840

The heirs of the crown

After the death of Queen Victoria, the crown was inherited by the descendants: it was first addressed to Edward VII, then to George V and to Queen Mary, and finally to their daughter, Princess Mary. But years ago, the crown was bought by an anonymous American private buyer: the British government had blocked the export. However, in 2016 it was purchased for 5 million pounds by the Bollinger family and donated to the museum.

In addition to the crown, the William and Judith Bollinger gallery of the jewelery museum exhibits 3000 objects including 49 art deco pieces collected by Freddie Mercury’s sister, Kashmira Cooke, and lent to the museum in the memory of the singer with the prospect of becoming a permanent gift.

Pendente in smalto con cameo in agata, fa parte della la galleria William e Judith Bollinger
Enamel pendant with agate cameo, is part of the William and Judith Bollinger gallery
Ornamento per capelli a forma di orchidea, circa 1905
Orchid hair ornament, circa 1905
Lovers Eye, spilla inglese, circa 1800, in oro con perle e diamanti
Lovers Eye, English brooch, circa 1800, in gold with pearls and diamonds

India in Sophie Theakston’s jewels

The charm of India, the love for art, for decorations, for rich furnishings, but also for more or less imaginative myths: Sophie Theakston is a British designer who loves symbolism and ancient Indian folklore. In fact, her jewels are made in Rajasthan before being sold in London. The workmanship of the jewels is influenced by the Indian tradition, which often occurs. As for the semi-precious stones carved with the figures of the pantheon of the Hindu religion, such as the deity Ganesh.

Collana con stella e luna in oro e diamanti polki
Star and moon necklace in gold and polki diamonds

But not only. Because the designer also presents jewels, such as the 18-karat gold rigid cuff bracelet with symbols that are a reference to the late 19th-early 20th century Austrian painter Gustav Klimt. Sophie Theakston’s jewels, underlines the Maison, are made with ethically sourced materials, are completely sustainable, respectful of the environment and of the people who work to make them. In any case, the designer knows her job well: she represents the second generation of a family of jewelers. She is married to television presenter Jamie Theakston (maiden name is Sophie Siegle) and she gets up at 5.15 every morning.

Collana in oro con Buddha a quattro facce
Gold Necklace with Four Faced Buddha
Anello in oro com una hessonite cabochon
Gold ring with a cabochon hessonite
Bracciale Expectation in oro 18 carati e diamanti
Expectation bracelet in 18K gold and diamonds
Collana con lapislazzuli intagliato con la figura di Ganesh
Necklace with lapis lazuli carved with the figure of Ganesh
Bracciale in oro con opali
Gold bracelet with opals
Sophie Theakston
Sophie Theakston

The Gothic East by Ralph Masri




The young Lebanese designer Ralph Masri reinterprets the architecture of East and West in his jewelry  

Why in the world there are countries and cities where there are more jewelers? One of these lucky places is Lebanon. Closed (fortunately) the long period of tensions between the different souls of the population, the jewelry making business has recovered, also strong of customers who arrive in Beirut from the Gulf emirates. So it is not surprising if in the city that was once defined as Switzerland of the Middle East are born new generations of designers. One of the most acclaimed is Ralph Masri.

Orecchini Arabesque Deco in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Arabesque Deco in oro bianco e diamanti

His jewels were worn by women like Meghan Markle and Princess Rania of Jordan.

The designer has a degree in Bachelors of Art of the jewels of Central Saint Martin College in London. He then followed the internship in companies such Pomellato and Swarovski in London. Because in addition to drawing pleasant objects you have to know how to sell and organize work. He then studied how to use the creativity by a London jeweler, Scott Wilson, who specializes in maxi jewelry for the fashion world. But Ralph Masri has followed his path: his jewels are geometric, darting, simple and rich at the same time. For Arabesque Deco collection, for example, it was inspired by the motifs of the ancient buildings of the Middle East, while with Sacred Windows collection was inspired by the architectural lines of the Gothic cathedrals. To you the choice.

Orecchini Modernist in oro rosa, diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Orecchini Modernist in oro rosa, diamanti e zaffiri rosa

Anello Modernist in oro rosa, diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Anello Modernist in oro rosa, diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Orecchini con pavé di diamanti e zaffiri
Orecchini con pavé di diamanti e zaffiri
Bracciale Modernist in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri
Bracciale Modernist in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri

Anello Arabesque in oro bianco e diamanti
Anello Arabesque in oro bianco e diamanti

Meghan Markle con un anello di Ralph Masri
Meghan Markle con un anello di Ralph Masri

Anello in oro rosa e diamanti indossato da Meghan Markle
Anello in oro rosa e diamanti indossato da Meghan Markle
La principessa Rania di Giordania con orecchini di Ralph Masri
La principessa Rania di Giordania con orecchini di Ralph Masri







The folds of Tomasz Donocik

Everyone has to deal with a crease sooner or later. It can be the fold that shapes the hair, the one that divides a sheet of paper, that of a dress. Or a jewel. As in the case of Pleats, a collection by Tomasz Donocik dedicated to the alterations of a surface. The collection, explains the Polish-born, but London-based designer, is inspired by the design movements of the early 20th century, especially the Art Deco style and also by the folds commonly used in fashion at that time. But jewels also recall the shapes that appear when you look inside a kaleidoscope, or the thin woody surface you get when you sharpen a pencil.

Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, incastonati con quarzo fumé, citrino, topazio giallo, cristallo, zaffiri bianchi e diamanti
Orecchini in oro giallo 18 carati, incastonati con quarzo fumé, citrino, topazio giallo, cristallo, zaffiri bianchi e diamanti

Pleats is made up of just four pieces: two rings, a large brooch and a pair of earrings. The jewels are made of 18K yellow gold, smoky quartz, citrine, yellow topaz, crystal, white sapphires and white diamonds. A green tourmaline is also set in one of the two years.
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con  quarzo fumé, citrino, topazio giallo, crystal, zaffiri bianchi e diamanti
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con quarzo fumé, citrino, topazio giallo, crystal, zaffiri bianchi e diamanti

Spilla in oro giallo 18 carati con  quarzo fumé, citrino, topazio giallo, crystal, zaffiri bianchi e diamanti
Spilla in oro giallo 18 carati con quarzo fumé, citrino, topazio giallo, crystal, zaffiri bianchi e diamanti

Tomasz Donocik. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Tomasz Donocik. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Robinson Pelham, the brand that pleases




Robinson Pelham’s jewels, the brand that the Middleton family also likes ♦

The British royal family, but also their additional relatives, are always in the spotlight. Years ago, the marriage of the Duchess of Cambridge’s sister, Pippa Middleton, to the wealthy James Matthews was also no exception. In addition to the dress, attention was focused on the jewels worn by Kate’s sister, wife of Prince William. Pippa wore drop-shaped diamond earrings, signed Robinson Pelham.

Orecchini Zouk in oro e zaffiri rosa di Robinson Pelham
Orecchini Zouk in oro e zaffiri rosa

We have already told of Pippa Middleton engagement ring (here): it was created  by the London-based Maison Robinson Pelham too. It is a jewelry store that is located in the Chelsea District and has 19 years of experience behind them. For the first ten years produced only jewelry custom, then it widened the coverage of the ready-to-wear collections. The style is modern, not at all linked to the classic forms of English jewelery.

Anello Arena in oro 14 carati, topazio e smalto azzurro
Anello Arena in oro 14 carati, topazio e smalto
Anello Eye Love You in oro 18 carati, zaffiri e tsavoriti di Robinson Pelham
Anello Eye Love You in oro 18 carati, zaffiri e tsavoriti
Anello in oro, ametista e smalto rosa
Anello in oro, ametista e smalto rosa
Elemento arcobaleno per collana in oro e zaffiri multicolori
Elemento arcobaleno per collana in oro e zaffiri multicolori
Orecchino in oro 14 carati con tsavoriti a forma di serpente
Orecchino in oro 14 carati con tsavoriti

Orecchini a cerchio in oro e zaffiri gialli
Orecchini a cerchio in oro e zaffiri gialli

Pippa Middleton con anello
Pippa Middleton con un anello di Robinson Pelham







The Precious Skylines by David Morris




High jewelry signed David Morris: the Maison of Bond Street, in London, has added more stars in the sky of the British capital. Its Skylines collection, made up of extraordinary white and colored diamonds, also features a series of jewels inspired by ancient Egypt. The element that takes you back to the time of the pyramids is the use of lapis lazuli, a stone dear to the pharaohs, together with diamonds and stones such as the rare black opal. The style of the new pieces also adds a rigorous geometry, with straight and symmetrical lines.

Collana Antares, com 5,57 carati di diamanti rosa e 65,35 carati di diamanti bianchi su oro bianco
Collana Antares, com 5,57 carati di diamanti rosa e 65,35 carati di diamanti bianchi su oro bianco

Creative director Jeremy Morris, however, went even further, without abandoning the London jeweler’s predilection for diamonds and maxi precious stones. As for the Capola necklace, with a geometric motif composed of rock crystal and diamonds, with a cabochon sapphire weighing over 48 carats in the centre. Or with the Aurora Maelstrom ring, with an exceptional pear-cut blue diamond weighing 4.28 carats in the center, surrounded by pink and white diamonds. The skyline in London is increasingly precious.
Anello Aurora Maelstrom con un diamante blu taglio pera di 4,28 carati, diamanti rosa e diamanti bianchi
Anello Aurora Maelstrom con un diamante blu taglio pera di 4,28 carati, diamanti rosa e diamanti bianchi

Collana Capola com zaffiro cabochon birmano di 64,55 carati e 48,35 carati di cristallo di rocca, 18,18 arati di diamanti
Collana Capola com zaffiro cabochon birmano di 64,55 carati e 48,35 carati di cristallo di rocca, 18,18 arati di diamanti
Orecchini Mosaica con 6,4 carati di zaffiri e 7 carati di diamanti
Orecchini Mosaica con 6,4 carati di zaffiri e 7 carati di diamanti
Orecchini in oro bianco con opali
Orecchini in oro bianco con opali
Orecchini Meteora con tormalina rosa per 60,66 carati, onice, diamanti, titanio e oro bianco
Orecchini Meteora con tormalina rosa per 60,66 carati, onice, diamanti, titanio e oro bianco
Anello Vega con zaffiro birmano di 16,30 carati, diamanti bianchi e rosa
Anello Vega con zaffiro birmano di 16,30 carati, diamanti bianchi e rosa

Anello Confetti con lapislazzuli, opale nero, diamanti
Anello Confetti con lapislazzuli, opale nero, diamanti







Cassandra Goad, jewelry with a smile




The jewels full of humor and fantasy by Cassandra Goad, among tagliatelle and cabbage flowers ♦ ︎

For Londoners it is an institution. For those not living in Britain, Cassandra Goad is above all the designer appreciated by Kate Middleton: the Duchess of Cambridge has chosen the Maison’s earrings for the baptism of the third child Louis and is a fan of her. And in 2020 the designer presented a special collection to celebrate the brand’s 35th anniversary, with a reinterpretation of the most famous pieces.

Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con una spessartite ovale del Kenya di 4,33 carati e diamanti
Anello in oro giallo 18 carati con una spessartite ovale del Kenya di 4,33 carati e diamanti

Cassandra Goad has won a special place among the jewelers of London because she is a bit special herself. Most of Cassandra Goad’s jewels are inspired by travel, for example, more recently those in Mexico and Sicily. But she is also a gemologist, writer, polyglot. In short, it is not easy to put Cassandra Goad in a box. It is best to understand her story, which began at the age of 13, when she started working part-time with a historic jeweler. In 1985 she started her own business in Notting Hill. Finally, she opened her four-story showroom in Sloane Street, London.
Collana con acquamarina e diamanti
Collana con acquamarina e diamanti

Studies in gemology allow the designer to also choose unusual stones, including praisiolites, cyanites, tourmalines and fire opals, as well as classic stones such as emeralds, sapphires, rubies, aquamarines. But, besides the experience, Cassandra adds that touch of English humor that makes everything lighter and more fun. In the Bella Sicilia collection, for example, are the pearl earrings worn by Kate Middleton inspired by cabbage flowers, or a ring modeled on noodles. But also to the Roman and Byzantine mosaics found on the Italian island. But another specialty of the designer is turning old jewelry into new pieces updated to the spirit of our time. A little like it happens with the British traditions.

Anello in oro 18 carati con zaffiri e diamanti
Anello in oro 18 carati con zaffiri e diamanti
Anello in oro con perle di Tahiti e diamanti
Anello in oro con perle di Tahiti e diamanti
Orecchini Cavolfiore con turchese
Orecchini Cavolfiore con turchese
Anello in oro 18 carati con diamanti e zaffiri
Anello in oro 18 carati con diamanti e zaffiri

Orecchini Shanghai in oro, perle e acquamarina
Orecchini Shanghai in oro, perle e acquamarina

Cassandra Goad, orecchini Cavolfiore, indossati da Kate Middleton
Cassandra Goad, orecchini Cavolfiore, indossati da Kate Middleton







Volcanic Francesca Marcenaro




Francesca Marcenaro’s volcanic fantasy, from Pisa to London with surprising ideas. And a prize ♦

From Pisa to London, by studying law at the university and from the work in the law firm of his father to the jewelery theater. It is not usual the road of Francesca Marcenaro, jewelry designer who has turned a passion into a profession. In 2010 she started to translate all her ideas into objects, jewelry. And in 2019 Francesca Marcenaro also received the prestigious Goldsmiths Craft & Design Award for the 3D Design Precious Jewelery category in Silver and Bronze.

Bracciale della collezione Volcanic Treasure, in argento ossidato, perle, vetro granulato, marcasite
Bracciale della collezione Volcanic Treasure, in argento ossidato, perle, vetro granulato, marcasite

But in addition to designing his collections, offering her designer skills to other companies. And with a style even this out of the ordinary: Francesca uses, in fact, different techniques and materials, for example the glass granulation. She describes herself as a curious by nature: inspired by nature and fairytales, enthusiastic Italian ancient art, but also technology, engineering and innovation. As evidenced by a large necklace in which the shape of the tubogas is combined with a sort of kaleidoscope of stones. Or in the Volcanic Treasure collection, inspired by the rocks and at the earth’s subsurface lava. She works in Hatton Garden, the area of ​​the jewelers, in London.

Collana della Volcanic Treasure collection in argento, marcasite, quarzo citrino, granulazione di vetro
Collana della Volcanic Treasure collection in argento, marcasite, quarzo citrino, granulazione di vetro
Orecchini della Volcanic Treasure collection in argento, marcasite, quarzo citrino, granulazione di vetro
Orecchini della Volcanic Treasure collection in argento, marcasite, quarzo citrino, granulazione di vetro
Bracciale in argento, marcasite e vetro granulato
Bracciale in argento, marcasite e vetro granulato
Cocktail ring in argento annerito, rodio, ametista
Cocktail ring in argento annerito, rodio, ametista
Orecchini con perle
Orecchini con perle
Anello della collezione Il lago dei desideri
Anello della collezione Il lago dei desideri
Orecchini della collezione Magic Berries
Orecchini della collezione Magic Berries







Van Cleef & Arpels story on show in London




The long history of Van Cleef & Arpels began in 1896, although the actual foundation dates back to 1906. The Maison’s initiative in Paris is due to the Dutch diamond cutter Alfred Van Cleef and his father-in-law, Salomon Arpels. A lot of time has passed since then, but Van Cleef & Arpels remains one of the most famous jewelry brands in the world, also thanks to the fact that it was chosen by celebrities as royalty such as Grace Kelly, the Princess of Wales, Ava Gardner, Farah Pahlavi, Eva Perón, Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess of Windsor (to whom the idea of ​​the zip necklace is attributed) or Queen Nazli of Egypt. The jewels of the jewelry company, which is now part of the Swiss Richemont group, are often in the shape of flowers, animals, dancers.

La collana Zip, uno dei gioielli più famosi di Van Cleef & Arpels
La collana Zip, uno dei gioielli più famosi di Van Cleef & Arpels

And the historical jewels, which are now part of the Maison’s collection and private collections, are exhibited at the Design Museum in London until 20 October. The exhibition, entitled The Art of Movement, includes a hundred jewels and emphasizes the lightness and dynamism of the special pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels. The path is divided into four themes: Living Nature, Dance, Elegance and Abstract Movements. There are also sketches and drawings that tell the birth of the Maison’s jewels.
Ballerina, clip del 1952
Ballerina, clip con turchesi e rubini del 1952

Clip Trois Clochettes, 1964
Clip Trois Clochettes, 1964
Collana in oro, 1971
Collana in oro, 1971
Disegno preparatorio
Disegno preparatorio
Orologio segreto, 1937
Orologio segreto, 1937

Spilla a forma di ballerina
Spilla a forma di ballerina in oro, perle, smalto







International Assya

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New jewels signed by Assya, the boutique that Tessa Grazzini opened in London ♦

Years ago, India has enchanted Tessa Grazzini. So, after that trip, Tessa Grazzini thought to enchant London with Assya, the boutique in Notting Hill shopping district, where the designer works. But if India is the inspiration, the Assya jewels are addressed to Western women, modern and looking for something different. But without being too demanding. In short, jewels to wear even in the office or in the free time. And, above all, she has an international style. How is the story of the designer: she is born in Italy, but after Tessa has lived in South America and traveled extensively around the world before settling in London.

Orecchini in argento placcato oro con ametista, crisoprasio, citrino, tormalina e tanzanite
Orecchini in argento placcato oro con ametista, crisoprasio, citrino, tormalina e tanzanite

She worked at Sotheby’s, and then Estee Lauder before completing the jewelry courses at Central St Martin and create her first collection. She uses silver, vermeil, 18K gold with precious and semiprecious stones. Each piece is handmade in the UK and Italy. She has also experienced new processing, such as shimmer finish, obtained with a blasting method of silver and gold. Tessa is now working with the Nymph sister, marketing specialist.

Anello in vermeil con ametista e crisoprasio
Anello in vermeil con ametista e crisoprasio
Orecchini in vermeil con cilindri di pietra luna e tasvorite
Orecchini in vermeil con cilindri di pietra luna e tasvorite
Bracciali di Assya
Bracciali di Assya
Orecchino in vermeil e turchesi indossato
Orecchino in vermeil e turchesi indossato
Anello in vermeil con turchese
Anello in vermeil con turchese

Collana in vermeil con calcedonio, crisoprasio, ametista, opale rosa
Collana in vermeil con calcedonio, crisoprasio, ametista, opale rosa







Andrew Grima’s legacy




The innovative imagination of the sixties revived with Maison Andrew Grima 

It’s nice when the myths continue. La Maison Andrew Grima, jeweler that marked the sixties, and died in 2007, he continues its journey through the work of his wife Jojo and the daughter Francesca. Andrew Grima has an original story. He was born in Rome to Italian parents (with a kinship with the family Farnese). He grew up in London, where he attended St Joseph College, Beulah Hill, but he studied mechanical engineering.

Anello in oro con opale e diamanti, 1974
Anello in oro con opale e diamanti, 1974

Andrew Grima was the trendiest jewelry designer in London’s West End in the 1960s and 1970s. He sold the jewelry in his gallery at 80 Jermyn Street, Mayfair, furnished with the world’s first perspex spiral staircase, built by Peter Rice and Ove Arup. In 1970 Grima also designed a collection of watches, About Time, for Omega. And in 1976 a collection of golden Led digital watches for Pulsar. The British designer has won numerous awards for his contribution to the jewelry industry. For example, he was the only jeweler to win the Duke of Edinburgh Award for design and he won 13 De Beers Diamonds International Awards, more than any other jeweler.
La regina Elisabetta con una spilla con rubino di Andrew Grima
La regina Elisabetta con una spilla con rubino di Andrew Grima

His father was a designer of fabrics and the Andrew brothers became architects. His jeweler work was much appreciated by the British royal family: among others, for a brooch with rubies purchased by Queen Elizabeth II and another gold for the Princess Margaret. Among her fans there are also designers like Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs. Fortunately Francesca Grima has inherited from her father a good dose of creativity, while the mother Jojo has worked extensively with her husband, so much to learn the style and manufacturing techniques. In a nutshell: a man has disappeared, but it lives what he has created. After two decades in Switzerland mother and daughter returned to London and continue in the unmistakable style of the Maison, which includes abstract forms and unusual combinations of materials, stones and geometric shapes often irregular. Each year are introduced only 20-30 new pieces.

Anello con ametista di 81 carati, 2014
Anello con ametista di 81 carati, 2014
Andrew Grima, 1969
Andrew Grima, 1969
Collana in platino con un berillo ovale e diamanti, 1973
Collana in platino con un berillo ovale e diamanti, 1973
Orecchini in oro con citrini madeira, 1970
Orecchini in oro con citrini madeira, 1970
Anello con citrino di 47,54 carati su oro, 2022
Anello con citrino di 47,54 carati su oro, 2022
Anello in oro con diamanti, 2021
Anello in oro con diamante taglio vecchia miniera, 2021







High Jewelery and Art at the London Pad




The Pad returns in London, an exhibition founded in 2007 by the fourth generation Parisian antiques dealer Patrick Perrin. It is the only fair in the UK dedicated exclusively to 20th century and contemporary design. And it is also an opportunity to see precious and rare jewels up close. This year the Pad is scheduled from 10 to 16 October in Berkeley Square. In spring it will be the turn of the Parisian edition. As for jewels, Valery Demure, founder of the online site Objet d’Emotion and Marylebone, the London gallery of the same name, will present independent designers from all over the world, including Melanie Georgacopoulos and Italian designer Francesca Villa.

Orecchini di Neha Dani con diamanti e rubini
Orecchini di Neha Dani con diamanti e rubini

Among the jewelry makers is also expected Parisian jeweler Emmanuelle Zysman, known for her craftsmanship of her layered designs in brushed gold, silver and precious stones. Again, there will be Yael Sonia, a Brazilian-born designer, who creates kinetic jewelry with an architectural touch and the half-Ghanaian and half-Chinese talent Melinda Zeman, who launched Boochier in 2019, with her brilliant enamel and diamond jewelry.
Orecchini di Silvia Furmanovitch
Orecchini di Silvia Furmanovitch

A novelty is the Indian jeweler Moksh, who offers jewelry inspired by the Mughal era. Elisabetta Cipriani, who manages the London gallery of the same name specializing in wearable art, will present the work of the young British goldsmith Joy BC with pieces inspired by ancient Greece. Maria Sole Ferragamo, founder of So-Le Studio, instead offers pieces made from waste materials such as leather scraps and brass shavings. Elisabetta Cipriani will also present a new project at the fair: Salvia, the second collaboration with Italian artist Giuseppe Penone. She has made a 10-piece limited edition ring, in 18k gold, depicting a sage leaf. The Italian gallery owner also brings to the Pad the jewels of the Greek sculptor Sophia Vari and the Italian artist Giorgio Vigna.
Orecchini di Francesca Villa
Orecchini di Francesca Villa

The London exhibition also includes Carpenter Workshop Jewelery, a company recently launched by the Carpenter international design gallery, which will present jewels by artists such as Cindy Sherman, Rashid Johnson and Robert Longo presented in partnership with the US jewelery brand LizWorks.
Collana di Boghossian con diamanti e pietre semi preziose
Collana di Boghossian con diamanti e pietre semi preziose

High jewelry
Alongside the jewels created by artists, the Pad also offers pieces of high jewelery. The London Maison David Morris copies 60 years and participates for the first time at the Pad with a pair of earrings with rare natural pearls, with pink diamonds and white briolette diamonds, as well as with a 43-carat black opal and lapis lazuli necklace. The Indian jeweler Neha Dani creates only 15 to 20 pieces a year and will present his jewelery-sculptures, encrusted with precious stones (he uses up to 3,000 per jewel). Like the Aialik bracelet, with custom cut blue moonstones set in 18K gold and diamonds. A usual presence, on the other hand, is that of Glenn Spiro, a British jeweler highly regarded for his avant-garde design and Boghossian, with creations inspired by the historic Silk Road.
Boghossian, anello Toi et Moi con diamanti rosa e bianco
Boghossian, anello Toi et Moi con diamanti rosa e bianco

David Morris, bracciale Tetris con diamanti
David Morris, bracciale Tetris con diamanti

David Morris, orecchini chandelier in titanio con smeraldi e diamanti
David Morris, orecchini chandelier in titanio con smeraldi e diamanti

Gioielli di Francesca Villa, Yael Sonia, Melanie Georgacopoulos, Boochier, Aaltas e Moksh
Gioielli di Francesca Villa, Yael Sonia, Melanie Georgacopoulos, Boochier, Aaltas e Moksh







The jewels of Queen Elizabeth seen up close




The farewell to Queen Elizabeth touch millions of people. But the queen leaves a legacy not only linked to her institutional figure, but also to her material. Starting with her jewels. And one of the events related to the queen’s jubilee, celebrated just two months before her death, concerns the display of her majesty jewels. The exhibition, organized by the Royal Collection Trust, is located in what used to be the Queen’s home, Buckingham Palace, London. Visitors can admire many of the Queen’s historic jewels, accompanied by original hand-finished images and prints taken by Dorothy Wilding (1893-1976), who has portrayed Elizabeth II on multiple occasions. The exhibition is titled The Platinum Jubilee: The Queen’s Accession and runs until October 2nd.

La regina Elisabetta indossa la tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland
La regina Elisabetta indossa la tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland

Jewelery is the most exciting item for aficionados. Also because there are not only jewels that have an exclusively historical value, as well as being precious. Many of the jewels on display, on the other hand, are among the favorites of the queen, who has worn them several times on official occasions and for the portraits of her that have become icons of her. For example, the Diamond Diadem tiara and The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland tiara.

La tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland. La regina fece riattaccare la parte superiore e la fascia nel 1969 e da allora la tiara è diventata uno dei suoi gioielli più riconoscibili
La tiara The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland. La regina fece riattaccare la parte superiore e la fascia nel 1969 e da allora la tiara è diventata uno dei suoi gioielli più riconoscibili

The Diamond Diadem was created on the occasion of the coronation of George IV in 1821. It is a jewel made with 1,333 brilliant-cut diamonds and a band with two rows of pearls. Two diamonds are set in the shape of a rose, a thistle and two shamrocks: they are the national symbols of England, Scotland and Ireland. The diadem was inherited in 1837 by Queen Victoria and, among other things, appears on the first stamp ever created, the legendary Penny Black. The diadem went to Queen Alexandra, then to Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother and then to Elizabeth II, who wore it on the day of her coronation and for the opening of parliament from the first year of her reign.

Il Diamond Diadem. È incastonato con 1.333 diamanti taglio brillante e 169 perle. Il diadema è stato originariamente creato per l'incoronazione di Giorgio IV nel 1821
Il Diamond Diadem. È incastonato con 1.333 diamanti taglio brillante e 169 perle. Il diadema è stato originariamente creato per l’incoronazione di Giorgio IV nel 1821

The Vladimir diadem, on the other hand, is so called because it was made for the Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia and sold by her daughter to Queen Mary in 1921. Inherited from the current queen in 1953, the diadem was worn with its original pearl drops. . But there are also jewels that are visible in public for the first time, such as the Dorset bow brooch and a pair of diamond bracelets.

Diadema Vladimir. Realizzato per la Granduchessa Vladimir di Russia, questo diadema è stato venduto da sua figlia alla regina Mary nel 1921. Ereditato dalla regina nel 1953, il diadema è stato indossato con le sue gocce di perle originali
Diadema Vladimir. Realizzato per la Granduchessa Vladimir di Russia, questo diadema è stato venduto da sua figlia alla regina Mary nel 1921. Ereditato dalla regina nel 1953, il diadema è stato indossato con le sue gocce di perle originali

The Girls of Great Britain and Ireland tiara, on the other hand, has been owned by the queen since 1947, as a wedding gift from her grandmother, Queen Mary. Among the jewels there is also the Nizam of Hyderabad necklace in platinum with 300 diamonds: it was donated to Princess Elizabeth by the Nizam of Hyderabad (governor of the Kingdom, title of the native sovereigns of the Indian state of Hyderabad) as a wedding gift in 1947. Elizabeth II he wore it was often worn for official engagements and formal portraits.

Collana Nizam of Hyderabad in platino con 300 diamanti
Collana Nizam of Hyderabad in platino con 300 diamanti
Bracciale di Cartier in platino, diamanti e zaffiri
Bracciale di Cartier in platino, diamanti e zaffiri
Collana Delhi Durbar. È composta con nove smeraldi originariamente di proprietà della nonna della regina, Mary. Il diamante ovale da 8,8 carati è stato tagliato dal diamante Cullinan, il più grande mai trovato
Collana Delhi Durbar. È composta con nove smeraldi
originariamente di proprietà della nonna della regina, Mary. Il diamante ovale da 8,8 carati è stato tagliato dal diamante Cullinan, il più grande mai trovato
Garrard, collana regina del Sudafrica, 1947
Garrard, collana regina del Sudafrica, 1947
Garrard, bracciale della regina del Sudafrica
Garrard, bracciale della regina del Sudafrica
La regina Elisabetta II ritratta da Dorothy Wilding
La regina Elisabetta II ritratta da Dorothy Wilding
La regina Elisabetta II indossa il Diamond Diadem e la collana Nizam of Hyderabad
La regina Elisabetta II indossa il Diamond Diadem e la collana Nizam of Hyderabad
Spilla con diamanti dono della contea del Dorset alla regina Mary nel 1893. È stata donata alla principessa Elisabetta come regalo di nozze nel 1947
Spilla con diamanti dono della contea del Dorset alla regina Mary nel 1893. È stata donata alla principessa Elisabetta come regalo di nozze nel 1947







Shaun Leane’s precious challenge




Light jewels, with a curious contrast between art nouveau and minimalism, in full London: here is the work of Shaun Leane ♦

London, a short walk from Bond Street: if you look for Shaun Leane, you’ll stand for accuracy at 18 Woodstock Street. He began to learn the craft when he was 15 in the laboratories of London’s goldsmiths: while his peers were playing football, he learned the art of jewelry, as an apprentice. It was his way: now the brand Shaun Leane invents, proposes and sells prized pieces and, above all, originals. But not outlandish. Shaun Lee is also known for another reason: over the years he has designed sculptural pieces created for Alexander McQueen, highly appreciated during fashion shows.

Anello Quill in oro bianco 18 carati e diamanti
Anello Quill in oro bianco 18 carati e diamanti

Shaun says: “We can not look to the future without looking at the past.” Although her jewelry are available to be purchased online, any case, each model are produced only small amounts. Also because it is often not easy to find on the market the necessary elements, such as natural pink pearls, tourmalines or particularly exciting. Prices of jewelry ranging from a few hundred pounds up to 8-10,000. But the ring with two diamonds pear cut 8 carats, set in white gold, with a particularly elaborate design, costs more than 20,000 pounds. The designer also created the engagement ring of Princess Beatrice, daughter of Prince Andrew of England, with Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi.

La principessa Beatrice, figlia del principe Andrea d'Inghilterra, indossa l'anello di fidanzamento di Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi realizzato da Shaun Leane
La principessa Beatrice, figlia del principe Andrea d’Inghilterra, indossa l’anello di fidanzamento di Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi realizzato da Shaun Leane
La corona di spine disegnata in occasione di una sfilata di Alexander  McQueen nel 1996
La corona di spine disegnata in occasione di una sfilata di Alexander McQueen nel 1996
Anello di fidanzamento in oro giallo 18 carati con diamanti
Anello di fidanzamento in oro giallo 18 carati con diamanti
Anello Aurora in oro, ametista, rodolite
Anello Aurora in oro, ametista, rodolite
Anello Aurora in oro giallo 18 carti comn quarzo citrino, fumé e arancio
Anello Aurora in oro giallo 18 carti comn quarzo citrino, fumé e arancio
Orecchini Orchid in oro bianco, diamanti, tsavorite, smalto
Orecchini Orchid in oro bianco, diamanti, tsavorite, smalto

Orecchini Talon in oro giallo e diamanti
Orecchini Talon in oro giallo e diamanti







Jessie Harris, experimental and minimal




Between conceptual and design art, between jewelery and futurism: here is the London designer Jessie Harris♦ ︎
That its launch platform was art, sculpture and visual performances, it’s easy to guess it: Jessie Harris, an English designer, is one of the new signatures of London fine jewelry. She explaining that is focused on the use of clean lines and structural forms to produce minimal sculptures dedicated to the body. Its jewels are those that are defined as minimal. They like to who do not want frills, but clean geometries, capable of scaling volumes, full and precise voids, with a simple workmanship. The problem in these cases is how to invent something new with a simple gold thread that turns into earrings or ring. When it’s happens, it’s a win for a few.

Anello con zaffiro verde e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro verde e diamanti

Jessie studied Fine Art at Chelsea’s College of Art and graduated in 2010. She started creating sound conceptual installations, but from concepts she preferred to move to something more tangible: jewelery. In her short autobiography however, her collections are defined as Retro Futurism, Reference Structures. Between artistic avant-gardes and jewelery, Jessie designs and realizes her pieces in her East London studio.

Orecchini Curl Double Drop in oro e diamanti
Orecchini Curl Double Drop in oro e diamanti
Orecchini Curl Hoop in oro e diamanti
Orecchini Curl Hoop in oro e diamanti
Curl Neclace in oro 18 e 9 carati (la catena)
Curl Neclace in oro 18 e 9 carati (la catena)
Anelli in oro e diamanti brown
Anelli in oro e diamanti brown

Anello Open Curl in oro
Anello Open Curl in oro







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