Jar

Up for auction at Christie’s 25 creations by Jar

The Jewels of a Legend, Jar: born in New York City in 1943, Joel Arthur Rosenthal graduated from Harvard with degrees in art history and philosophy before moving to Paris. And become a jewel artist. And Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction scheduled in Geneva on May 17 will offer the largest collection of Jar jewels ever to be auctioned. After working with Bulgari in New York, Jar returned to Paris, opening her own jewelry store with his partner, Pierre Jeannet, in 1977.

Anello Bonnet con ametista, zaffiri e rubini
Anello Bonnet con ametista, zaffiri e rubini

Jar produces at 7 Place Vendôme, Paris, only about 70 pieces a year, highly sought after by collectors, movie stars and lovers of original jewellery. Christie’s is offering 25 Jar creations, which will become the American designer’s largest collection ever to appear at auction, with pieces spanning 40 years of creativity. The collection has been built up over the last 15 years by a leading art and jewelery collector, who encountered Jar’s art twenty years ago during the major exhibition The Jewels of Jar, Paris which took place in London between 2002 and 2003 at Somerset House. Five years later the collector was able to acquire a first piece of jewelery from the master jeweler and after 15 years of collecting he decided to sell.
Orecchini a forma di foglie di edera con diamanti
Orecchini a forma di foglie di edera con diamanti

Joel Arthur Rosenthal pairs unusual gemstones with nontraditional materials. The quality of his work is reminiscent of 18th and 19th century jewelry. In 2013, Jar was the first living gem artist to be honored with a retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
Orecchini Pansy multigemma
Orecchini Pansy multigemma

Among the pieces on sale is a camellia brooch, which has become a signature design of Jar and embodies the extraordinary attention to detail, which pushes the boundaries between jewelery and sculpture, Also on sale are 15 pairs of earrings, including a third it is also inspired by nature, such as a pair of Geranium earrings in carved nephrite jade and diamonds or the iconic and delicate diamond ivy leaves earrings designed in 1991.

Orecchini Ventaglio con diamanti, zaffiri e smeraldi
Orecchini Ventaglio con diamanti, zaffiri e smeraldi
Bracciale Eye con zaffiri, spinello e diamanti
Bracciale Eye con zaffiri, spinello e diamanti
Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e fancy, zaffiri gialli
Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e fancy, zaffiri gialli

Jennifer Lopez’s extremely rare green diamond

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Green diamonds are very rare and very expensive. Because they have a secret ♦ ︎

Colored diamonds have inflamed Sotheby’s and Christie’s auctions for many years. While colorless diamonds, commonly called white, were once the most expensive gems, now it is the colors that are paid the most. The most popular colors are yellow, pink and blue. Rarer are red diamonds. But there are also diamonds of another color, even rarer: they are the green ones. Extremely rare. One of the few women to have a green diamond in the drawer (but perhaps in the safe) is Jennifer Lopez, who received it as a gift, mounted on a ring.

L'anello con diamante verde di Jennifer Lopez
L’anello con diamante verde di Jennifer Lopez
L'anello con diamante verde ricevuto da Jennifer Lopez
L’anello con diamante verde ricevuto da Jennifer Lopez

Because they are green. The green color is extremely rare in diamonds also because it is also believed to be due to the exposure of the stone to radioactive materials. But do not worry: you can wear them without problems. Green diamonds were near, millennia ago, small amounts of material such as uranium or thorium. But over time, radioactivity has declined, that is, it has ceased. In any case, these radiations penetrated the nearby diamond crystal and changed its color.

Anello con un raro diamante verde e diamanti bianchi
Anello in platino con un raro diamante verde e diamanti bianchi

Artificial green. Since green diamonds are the result of radiation, why not repeat the process in the laboratory? It is, in fact, what some laboratories do to produce a green color in diamonds. The stones are polished and then hit with a low-energy electron beam. With this same system, yellow diamonds are produced. Another method is to apply a thin layer of silica on the surface of the diamonds. But, beware: the coating is very thin and can be lost with normal wear.

Aurora Green, venduto da Christie's per 16,8 milioni di dollari, record d'asta mondiale
Aurora Green, venduto da Christie’s per 16,8 milioni di dollari, record d’asta mondiale

The biggest. The diamond called Green Dresden is the largest in the world (40.72 carats) with this shade. It is kept inside the Dresden castle. The ring you see in these images, however, was sold for $ 1.8 million in the spring of 2014. Its assessment is also due to the fact that the jewel is signed by the legendary designer Jar. The colored limestone diamond mounted on the ring weighs 2.49 carats and is set on platinum, surrounded by colorless diamonds. Also interesting to remember the story of this stone: once belonged to Countess Eliza Branicka Krasińska and was mounted on her engagement ring with the romantic poet Count Zygmunt Krasinski, in Poland. The two married in 1843 and remained together until the count’s death in 1859.

Il Verde di Dresda, custodito nel castello della città
Il Verde di Dresda, custodito nel castello della città
Un raro diamante verde contornato da bianchi e fancy pink
Un raro diamante verde contornato da bianchi e fancy pink
Diamante verde montato su anello firmato Jar. Venduto per 1,8 milioni di dollari nel 2014
Diamante verde montato su anello firmato Jar. Venduto per 1,8 milioni di dollari nel 2014
Adaline, anello con diamante verde
Adaline, anello con diamante verde
 Eliza Branicka Krasińska
Eliza Branicka Krasińska
La scala delle tonalità dei diamanti verdi
La scala delle tonalità dei diamanti verdi






Schlumberger and Tiffany online with Christie’s




For fans of vintage jewelry, but not limited to, the online jewelry auction organized until 30 September by Christie’s is an opportunity to secure collector’s items. The entire catalog includes 240 lots, including 18 pieces designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. The famous designer has created many jewels that have made history, starting with the Bird on a Rock series of brooches, which in this case are with amethyst, diamonds and rubies or with citrine. Also from Schlumberger are on sale a flaming star-shaped brooch in gold and diamonds, and a brooch in the shape of a dromedary. The auction catalog includes a pair of aquamarine and tsavorite Hemmerle earrings.

Spilla a forma di dromedario di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany in oro, con zaffiri rosa, lapislazzuli, diamanti
Spilla a forma di dromedario di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany in oro, con zaffiri rosa, lapislazzuli, diamanti

Other interesting pieces are signed by famous Maison, such as Cartier with a brooch in diamonds and onyx in the shape of parrots, in addition to the classic panthère, but also jewels by Bulgari, Boucheron, Buccellati, Jar, Oscar Heyman, Seaman Schepps, Taffin and Van Cleef & Arpels. More than half of the lots are offered unreservedly, an aspect appreciated by collectors and buyers.
Orecchini con acquamarina e tsavoriti di Hammerle
Orecchini con acquamarina e tsavoriti di Hammerle

Spilla a forma di pappagalli in oro, platino, diamanti, onice, di Cartier
Spilla a forma di pappagalli in oro, platino, diamanti, onice, di Cartier
Classica Panthèere in oro, diamanti, platino, onice, smeraldi di Cartier
Classica Panthèere in oro, diamanti, platino, onice, smeraldi di Cartier

Bracciale con topazi, tormalina rosa, ametista, citrini, peridoto di Bulgari
Bracciale con topazi, tormalina rosa, ametista, citrini, peridoto di Bulgari

Spilla a forma di stella fiammeggiante in oro 18 carati e diamanti, Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany
Spilla a forma di stella fiammeggiante in oro 18 carati e platino, con diamanti, Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany

Spilla di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany  in oro e platino, rubini, diamanti
Spilla di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany in oro e platino, rubini, diamanti
Spilla di Jean Schlumberger  per Tiffany in oro con citrino e diamanti
Spilla di Jean Schlumberger per Tiffany in oro con citrino, rubino e diamanti







Titanium jewelry: should you buy them?




Titanium jewelry: they are the last frontier of jewelry. Beautiful, but also difficult to make. Should you buy them? ♦

Long live titanium, which has become synonymous with creative audacity and high technology in jewelry from a key element in the aerospace industry. To what does it owe its success? To lightness, first of all: with a weight less than a fifth compared to gold, it allows large volumes and the same comfort in wearing, especially for earrings and bracelets. Not only that: those who associate titanium only with its sad gray color of origin are wrong: this metal can be dyed in bright and full shades, from lawn green to lacquer red, to intense purple, to electric blue. Furthermore, whatever the color obtained through an oxidation process, unlike what is done with the galvanic process on silver or other metals, it is much more resistant: it does not fade with time and does not risk detachment. But this is not the only technical advantage: its extreme resistance allows you to use less metal than gold and platinum for the frames and to create very thick pavé.

Masterpiece 2019: due spille con diamanti e zaffiri blu su titanio
Cindy Chao, Masterpiece 2019: due spille con diamanti e zaffiri blu su titanio

How to use it. Titanium is often used for thin and light metal architectures that serve as gem racks. It is no coincidence that most titanium jewels are literally covered with stones. One of the first to experiment with this material in jewelry was Jar (Joseph Arthur Rosenthal) in the late 1980s, and on the occasion of his retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum in New York, he created a collection of titanium and aluminum jewelery for sale inside the museum at affordable prices, from 2 to 5 thousand dollars. The fact that it is less expensive than gold must not be misleading, its processing requires great skill and technical knowledge, so it may happen that some jewels are even more expensive than their cousins ​​made with more noble metals.
Wallace Chan, Cosmic Destiny. Spilla in titanio, diamanti e zaffiri
Wallace Chan, Cosmic Destiny. Spilla in titanio, diamanti e zaffiri

The admirers. Titanium jewels, therefore, are usually embellished with super precious stones, such as those of Wallace Chan, the jeweler from Hong Kong, or the Swiss Suzanne Syz, who made titanium his signature. And yet the sinuous tracery of Pomellato, which chose it to renew the Arabesque collection, or the delicate leaves of the Chopard bracelet with blue sapphires, the magnetic colors of the flower-shaped brooch by Giovanni Ferraris or the slight setting of the brooch by Michelle Ong, one of the few people who can boast a friendship with Jar. But there are also those who focus everything on design rather than precious stones, such as the Italian Maison Vhernier.
Orecchini in titanio verde e diamanti di Jacob & Co
Orecchini in titanio verde e diamanti di Jacob & Co

Is it worth buying titanium jewelry? Titanium, like metal, costs less than gold, but is more difficult to use in jewelry. That said, the value of a titanium jewel is not determined by the cost of the raw material. If the gold of a jewel can be melted and resold, the same cannot be proposed for titanium. Therefore, when you buy a titanium jewel, you choose the design, the signature of the Maison, the gems that make up the piece. It is not said that a titanium jewel is more advantageous than a gold or platinum jewel: it depends on the stones that compose it.
Anello farfalla della collezione Titanium
Giovanni Ferraris, anello farfalla della collezione Titanium

How do you clean titanium? In addition to being light, titanium is very resistant: no problem for cleaning that can be performed with the usual mix of warm water, two drops of liquid soap and a toothbrush with soft bristles. If anything, the problem may be the structure of the jewel. Titanium, as we have explained, is often used to make jewels with a particularly imaginative shape, often together with many precious stones. You must be very careful, therefore, not to ruin the structure of the jewel with an excessively energetic cleaning. Monica Battistoni

Earcuff Nuri indossato
Boucheron, earcuff Nuri indossato. Titanio, oro giallo, acquamarina, berillo, tsavoriti, onice, lacca nera, zaffiri, diamanti, gialli e bianchi

Anello in oro, titanio, diamanti, ambra, granati, opale di fuoco, zaffiri
Lydia Courteille, anello in oro, titanio, diamanti, ambra, granati, opale di fuoco, zaffiri
Bracciale Calla in titanio e diamanti
Bracciale Calla di Vhernier in titanio e diamanti
Anello in titanio, diamanti e oro rosa
Syz Fireworks, anello in titanio blu, diamanti e oro rosa
Orecchini in titanio, diamanti e rubini
Fabio Salini, orecchini in titanio, diamanti e rubini
Collier a forma di piuma in titanio con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba
Moussaieff, collier a forma di piuma in titanio con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba
Jar, orecchini Geranium in titanio verde e rosso
Jar, orecchini Geranium in titanio verde e rosso
Chopard, bracciale Red Carpet Collection 2012 in titanio con 2.417 zaffiri blu
Chopard, bracciale Red Carpet Collection 2012 in titanio con 2.417 zaffiri blu
Michelle Ong, spilla Forbidden Fruit in platino e titanio con una tormalina rosa centrale
Michelle Ong, spilla Forbidden Fruit in platino e titanio con una tormalina rosa centrale
Michele Della Valle, spilla Bow in titanio con pavé di diamanti incolori taglio brillante
Michele Della Valle, spilla Bow in titanio con pavé di diamanti incolori taglio brillante

Suzanne Syz, orecchini Tie that knot in titanio e oro bianco con pavé di diamanti e berilli verdi blu taglio briolette
Suzanne Syz, orecchini Tie that knot in titanio e oro bianco con pavé di diamanti e berilli verdi blu taglio briolette







The Light of Africa Diamond and Jar illuminate Christie’s




The Light of Africa Diamond, a D-color, Flawless, Type IIa, emerald-cut diamond of 103.49 carats, with excellent polishing and symmetry, was sold by Christie’s, New York, for 20 million dollars. The gem therefore ranks as the fifth most precious colorless diamond ever offered by Christie’s. The 299.3-inch rough stone was mined at the Cullinan diamond mine and then cut and polished by Stargems Group. Overall, the Magnificent Jewels auction reached a total of $ 48.8 million, with 95% sold by lot and 98% in value.

The Light of Africa Diamond
The Light of Africa Diamond

The jewels on sale also included Jar’s The Ann & Gordon Getty and Twelve Jewels collection. The sale totaled 5.9 million dollars and consisted of one of the largest and most important private collections of the master Joel Arthur Rosenthal. The result of the sale is considered exceptional by Christie’s: the Parrot Tulip brooch with more gems, diamonds and lacquer, was sold for 831,600 dollars, a set of three Fleur-Pompons brooches with diamonds, rubies and colored sapphires, for 579,600, and the Zebra brooch in agate, diamonds and sapphires, for 554,000. Part of the proceeds from the collection will be donated by Gordon Getty to a Ukrainian relief fund.
Jar, spilla Parrot Tulip con più gemme, diamanti e lacca, venduta per 831.600 dollari
Jar, spilla Parrot Tulip con più gemme, diamanti e lacca, venduta per 831.600 dollari

The Magnificent Jewels auction at Christie’s New York rounded off an incredible sale season with solid results worldwide. Ann Getty’s extraordinary JAR collection sold for a total of $5,065,000, over double the pre-sale estimate. The 103.49ct Light of Africa D Flawless diamond achieved an incredible $195,000 per carat demonstrating the strength of the diamond market at the highest levels. The stone was unearthed at the Cullinan Mine and polished by the Stargems Group. We look forward to the rest of our online jewelry sales in London, New York, and Paris, which run through the end of June.
Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewelry, Christie’s

Jar, spilla Zebra in agata, diamanti e zaffiri
Jar, spilla Zebra in agata, diamanti e zaffiri

The sale also achieved excellent results for jewels from important private collections, such as a selection of Bulgari jewels from the collection of the Italian actress Silvana Mangano, led by a Bulgari Fancy Intense Trombino ring with a 15.98-carat yellow diamond, sold for 693,000. dollars, a set of coral and gold jewelry Van Cleef & Arpels, formerly in the collection of Brooke Astor, who made 75,600 and a pair of emerald and diamond earrings of 13.79 and 12.14 carats from the property of a private collector , which reached $ 1,260,000.

Jar, set di tre spille Fleur Pompons con diamanti, rubini e zaffiri colorati
Jar, set di tre spille Fleur Pompons con diamanti, rubini e zaffiri colorati
Anello Trombino con diamante giallo appartenuto a Silvana Mangano
Anello Trombino con diamante giallo appartenuto a Silvana Mangano
Set di collana e orecchini in oro e corallo di Van Cleef & Arpels
Set di collana e orecchini in oro e corallo di Van Cleef & Arpels
Orecchini con smeraldi taglio pera e diamanti
Orecchini con smeraldi taglio pera e diamanti







Light of Africa Diamond, Jar and historical jewels in New York with Christie’s




New top jewelry auction at Christie’s in New York. On June 8, other Magnificent Jewels will be on stage, with jewels from private collections, along with jewels signed by Bhagat, Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Graff, Harry Winston, Raymond Templier, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels. The jewels can be previewed at Christie’s, in New York, from 3 to 7 June.

The Light of Africa Diamond
The Light of Africa Diamond

The highlight of the sale is The Light of Africa Diamond, a diamond that starts with an estimate between 11 and 18 million dollars. It is of color D, flawless, type IIa, emerald cut and has a remarkable weight of 103.49 carats. It is the result of a 299.3 carat rough stone unearthed in the Cullinan mine, which has already produced some of the historic diamonds, such as the two Great Stars of Africa, both of which are part of the British Crown Jewels, set in the Scepter of the Sovereign and in the Crown of the Imperial State.

The sale also includes 12 Jar jewels, which were part of the Ann & Gordon Getty Collection, of which we talked about here. In addition, the auction includes jewels from other important private collections, including a selection of Bulgari jewels from the collection that belonged to the Italian actress Silvana Mangano. Then there are the coral and gold Van Cleef & Arpels jewels from the collection of the socialite Brooke Astor and a pair of emerald and diamond earrings of 13.79 and 12.14 carats owned by a private collector.

Borsetta da sera Melone di Bulgari in oro, diamanti, zaffiri, appartenuta a Silvana Mangano
Borsetta da sera Melone di Bulgari in oro, diamanti, zaffiri, appartenuta a Silvana Mangano

Set in oro e corallo di Van Cleef & Arpels appartenuto a Brooke Astor
Set in oro e corallo di Van Cleef & Arpels appartenuto a Brooke Astor
Collana di diamanti di Harry Winston
Collana di diamanti di Harry Winston
Collana con diamante centrale di 76,46 carati
Collana con diamante centrale di 76,46 carati
Spilla di Bulgari con diamante fancy yellow e diamanti bianchi
Spilla di Bulgari con diamante fancy yellow e diamanti bianchi

Collana di Cartier con rubini e diamanti
Collana di Cartier con rubini e diamanti







A 22 million Rock




It is 21.7 million Swiss francs, which is equivalent to more than 21.9 million dollars or 20.7 million euros the value attributed to The Rock, the largest white diamond ever sold at auction. At the auction of Christie’s Magnificent Jewels in Geneva, however, the stone did not reach the maximum estimate (about 30 million) even if it exceeded the minimum value (19 million). The Rock has a weight of 228.31 carats, a drop cut and is considered a perfect stone. Another highlight of the auction was The Red Cross Diamond, a vivid yellow gem that fetched 14.2 million francs (14.3 million dollars or 13.5 million euros), with a significant portion of the proceeds to benefit of the International Committee of the Red Cross.

Rahul Kadakia con The Rock
Rahul Kadakia con The Rock

During an important week for Christie’s, when Andy Warhol’s Shot Sage Blue Marilyn set the record price as the 20th century artwork, The Rock, the largest white diamond ever sold at auction, reached nearly $ 22 million. . Weighing 228.31 carats, The Rock is the largest white diamond ever to appear at auction. The final lot of the auction featured another extraordinary gem of over 200 carats, the sensational The Red Cross Diamond. It was a privilege to present this legendary stone, first sold by Christie’s in 1918 as part of the Red Cross Appeal. More than a century after that first sale, the diamond was sold after 11 minutes of competitive competition for 14.1 million francs, a world auction record for an intense fancy yellow diamond. We are pleased that a significant portion of the proceeds will benefit the humanitarian efforts of the International Committee of the Red Cross.
Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Christie’s Jewelery

Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Christie's Jewellery, vende The Rock,, 228,31 carati, il più grande diamante bianco mai venduto all'asta
Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Christie’s Jewellery, vende The Rock,, 228,31 carati, il più grande diamante bianco mai venduto all’asta

Overall, the jewelry super auction was sold 98% by value and 92% by lot and saw global participation of registrants from 20 countries across four continents. Christie also notes the activity of Millennial collectors, 50% of the new subscribers to the sale.
The red Cross diamond, di oltre 205 carati
The red Cross diamond, di oltre 205 carati

For nearly half a century, our family has had the privilege of safeguarding The Red Cross Diamond. Since it was first introduced to the market in 1918, the legacy of this symbol of humanity has always been the support of communities ravaged by war, famine and other hardships suffered by people around the world. At this historic moment we honor the calling that others have made before us. A significant portion of the proceeds will be donated to the large institution whose name it bears, recognizing the tireless efforts of the volunteers of the International Committee of the Red Cross.
The seller of The Red Cross Diamond

La Tiara Fürstenberg
La Tiara Fürstenberg

Other noteworthy results of the sale include the Fürstenberg tiara, which at an estimate of 400,000-600,000 Swiss francs has reached 2.4 million. The diadem, composed of pearls and diamonds, bears the mark of the famous Austrian jeweler Gustav Flach, and previously belonged to Her Royal Highness Princess of Fürstenberg, born Countess Irma of Schönborn Buchheim (1867-1948), a member of one of the most eminent aristocratic families in the Habsburg Empire.
Bracciale-choker con diamanti di Cartier, circa 1928
Bracciale-choker con diamanti di Cartier, circa 1928

An important selection of Jar’s jewels was highlighted by a pair of “hard-boiled egg” earrings with sphalerite and diamonds from 2011. From an estimate of 160,000-220,000 francs they made 327,600 francs. The earrings were featured in the 2013 retrospective of Rosenthal’s work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

Jar, orecchini Hard Boiled Eggs, con sfalerite e diamanti, del 2011
Jar, orecchini Hard Boiled Eggs, con sfalerite e diamanti, del 2011
Anello con smeraldo taglio cuscino di 17,80 carati e diamanti su oro bianco di Chaumet
Anello con smeraldo taglio cuscino di 17,80 carati e diamanti su oro bianco di Chaumet

Collana di Harry Winston con diamanti e smeraldo  di 40,41 carati
Collana di Harry Winston con diamanti e smeraldo di 40,41 carati







12 Jar jewels on sale in New York




There are living myths. One of these is Jar, an acronym for Joel Arthur Rosenthal, a refined, imaginative, sought-after jewel artist. The few creations by him are expected and coveted by collectors. Like Ann Getty. Now 12 Jar jewels collected by the collector will go on sale in New York at Christie’s on June 8. The sale is called Twelve Jewels by Jar and will be part of the Magnificent Jewels auction. These jewels designed by Jar of Ann Getty, wife of billionaire Gordon Getty and who passed away in 2020 at the age of 79, are part of one of the largest and most important private collections of the designer’s works. The overall estimate of the jewels is around 1.5 million dollars. Previously, the jewels will also be on display in Geneva and Hong Kong.

Jar, spilla zebra con agata, diamanti, zaffiri. Courtesy Christie's
Jar, spilla zebra con agata, diamanti, zaffiri. Courtesy Christie’s

Ann Getty was a trained scientist whose personal collection of JAR reflected her innate curiosity and impeccable taste for jewelry that was both beautifully-crafted and evoked memories of her family and research trips abroad. Her jewels tell the story of a woman pursuing ideal beauty and a lifelong appreciation of craftspeople. Only works by JAR achieve the balance of nature, color, and form that she loved so much.
Daphne Lingon, Head of Jewelry, Christie’s Americas

Spilla a forma di conchiglia con zaffiri e spinelli. Courtesy Christie's
Spilla a forma di conchiglia con zaffiri e spinelli. Courtesy Christie’s

Jar’s jewels are emblematic of contemporary design and are inspired by architecture, fabrics, art and nature. They often use characteristic pavé stones. From the diamond and gem-set lily brooch, reminiscent of a medieval stained glass window, to the sculpted agate Zebra brooch adorned with a royal headdress, Ann Getty’s Jar jewelry collection captures the artist’s early years of work and exploration and includes examples of the his most significant creative themes.
Spilla a forma di foglie con diamanti e gemme. Courtesy Christie's
Spilla a forma di foglie con diamanti e gemme. Courtesy Christie’s

Ann Getty has in the past lent several jewels from her collection to major museums around the world, including Jar’s successful exhibition at Somerset House in London in 2002, the Masterpieces of French Jewelry exhibition at the San Francisco Legion of Honor Museum in 2007 and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York’s historic Jar retrospective in 2013, the first time a living jeweler received the honor of a museum retrospective.

From the very beginning, this lady, you, dear Ann, imagined the future of my imagination, seeing and picking the cherries that became your collection…
Joel Arthur Rosenthal

Orecchini multigemma a forma di foglie di quercia. Courtesy Christie's
Orecchini multigemma a forma di foglie di quercia. Courtesy Christie’s

The main pieces of Jar’s Twelve Jewels include the Shell and Tulip brooches from 1990 and 1991. The shell combines rubies and spinels of various sizes that evoke the smooth but diverse landscape of the ocean floor. The parrot tulip brooch features smaller faceted rubies, diamonds and green garnets which together create a lifelike sparkle, as if the flower had just been plucked from the earth.
Spilla multigemma a fiore di giglio con diamanti. Courtesy Christie's
Spilla multigemma a fiore di giglio con diamanti. Courtesy Christie’s

Spilla Bouquet multigemma e diamanti. Courtesy Christie's
Spilla Bouquet multigemma e diamanti. Courtesy Christie’s
Spilla Parrot Tulip  multigemma, lacca e diamanti. Courtesy Christie's
Spilla Parrot Tulip multigemma, lacca e diamanti. Courtesy Christie’s
Orecchini ispirati alla viola con granati, citrini e diamanti
Orecchini ispirati alla viola con granati, citrini e diamanti
Orecchini Orchidea con zaffiri, granati, tormalina. Courtesy Christie's
Orecchini Orchidea con zaffiri, granati, tormalina. Courtesy Christie’s
Orecchini con topazio rosa e diamanti. Courtesy Christie's
Orecchini con topazio rosa e diamanti. Courtesy Christie’s
Orecchini con diamanti, zaffiri e granati verdi. Courtesy Christie's
Orecchini con diamanti, zaffiri e granati verdi. Courtesy Christie’s

Spille Fleur Ponpons con diamanti, zaffiri, rubini. Courtesy Christie's
Spille Fleur Ponpons con diamanti, zaffiri, rubini. Courtesy Christie’s







Lily Gabriella, luxury for the few

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Having a billionaire grandmother is a good place to start. But then, to create high-class jewels with a good dose of originality, Lily Gabriella Elia put her creativity into it. Born in Brazil, the London-based designer was encouraged by her grandmother, she said, in the decision to go to study gemology in New York. Then, she worked for Christie’s in Geneva. And, as if that were not enough, she received useful advice from a family friend who is a legend in the world of jewelry: Joel Arthur Rosenthal, better known by the acronym of Jar. In short, a rather rare and enviable background for those who work in jewelry. Jar also introduced the designer to stone workshops and traders to help her start her own business.

Orecchini con diamanti gialli e bianchi
Orecchini con diamanti gialli e bianchi

When she moved to the British capital, a city that alternates with Monaco, the designer maintained a very selective approach: in 2011 she founded Lily Gabriella Fine Jewelery, which offers an elite production: she designs on commission and sells by appointment only. The Brazilian roots of her jewelry mainly concern the more modern aspect, such as the inspiration for Oscar Niemeyer architecture.
Anello con diamante rosa e pavé di granati verdi
Anello con diamante rosa e pavé di granati verdi

Anello in oro con diamante giallo e diamanti bianchi
Anello in oro con diamante giallo e diamanti bianchi
Orecchini con diamante giallo taglio cuscino, zaffiri, diamanti bianchi e smalto
Orecchini con diamante giallo taglio cuscino, zaffiri, diamanti bianchi e smalto
Orecchini Halcyon con diamanti gialli di oltre 3 carati e diamanti bianchi
Orecchini Halcyon con diamanti gialli di oltre 3 carati e diamanti bianchi
Orecchini Sea Urchin con spinelli circondati da set di acquamarina, diamanti bianchi e gialli
Orecchini Sea Urchin con spinelli circondati da set di acquamarina, diamanti bianchi e gialli
Orecchini in oro rosa con diamanti bianchi e zaffiri rosa
Orecchini in oro rosa con diamanti bianchi e zaffiri rosa

Orecchini Polytope in oro giallo e diamanti
Orecchini Polytope in oro giallo e diamanti







Michele della Valle & friends with Christie’s online




In view of Christmas, from 23 November to 7 December Christie’s offers an online auction entitled Jewels Online & Colorful Whimsy: Jewels by Michele della Valle. The sale includes high-end jewelry, with period pieces, contemporary heats, as well as white diamonds and precious stones. The jewels for sale have prestigious brands such as Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Graff, Harry Winston, JAR, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels: over 400 lots, covering all price ranges and with several lots offered without reserve.

Michele della Vallem pupazzo di neve  in cristallo di rocca smerigliato, zaffiri gialli tondi, smeraldi e rubini, smalto nero, zaffiro arancione cabochon tondo, diamanti tondi, oro bianco, giallo e annerito 18 carati
Michele della Vallem pupazzo di neve in cristallo di rocca smerigliato, zaffiri gialli tondi, smeraldi e rubini, smalto nero, zaffiro arancione cabochon tondo, diamanti tondi, oro bianco, giallo e annerito 18 carati

But the dessert of this starred menu is represented by 64 imaginative jewels by Michele della Valle, all offered without reservations. Designer, artist, jeweler: Michele della Valle is one of the greatest creatives in business, who combines design skills with irony, pleasure and the wealth of ideas and materials. Often with surprising results. For example, the brooch in the shape of a snowman with gems and diamonds: high jewelery more in a pinch of joy.
Collana con diamanti, zaffiri di diversi colori e granati
Collana con diamanti, zaffiri di diversi colori e granati

Orecchini con diamanti e zaffiri gialli
Orecchini con diamanti e zaffiri gialli

Orecchini con zaffiri rotondi arancioni e gialli, tsavorite, diamanti, oro bianco e giallo
Orecchini con zaffiri rotondi arancioni e gialli, tsavorite, diamanti, oro bianco e giallo







5 tips before buying kewelery at auction




The advice of a great expert in jewelry for those who want to buy vintage jewelry at auction. It can be convenient if you … ♦

Do you like attending jewelry auctions, but are you hesitant about buying? Do you wonder when a piece of jewelry could be a safe investment and when its price is justified only a passing fashion? And then better vintage or contemporary pieces? Time ago David Warren, senior international Jewelery director of Christie’s, great jewelry expert and (obviously) of auctions, offered some advice to jewelry lovers, especially those of the period and of great value. They can also be a bargain, an excellent investment. The full text of Warren’s intervention can be found on the auction house website here. Here, then, the five tips to follow for those who want to buy a jewel.

Bracciale Art Déco con diamanti e rubini di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1940
Bracciale Art Déco con diamanti e rubini di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1940

1 The Art Deco period of Cartier
From the end of the 20th century to the 1920s, Cartier has adorned the wrists, the neck and the heart of the royal houses and the international aristocracy, explains David Warren. The unstoppable creative vein of the brothers Pierre, Louis and Jacques was pervaded by an ethic that no one else had: not to copy, to always create. The result is that these jewels of this period with their clean and linear style never go out of style. Art Deco jewels, among other things, are also signed by other big names in jewelry, such as Van Cleef & Arpels or Verdura.

Carier, bracciale Art Deco del 1928 in platino con 40 carati di diamanti taglio rosa e tondo e al centro un diamante taglio brillante di 3,35 carati
Cartier, bracciale Art Deco del 1928 in platino con 40 carati di diamanti taglio rosa e tondo e al centro un diamante taglio brillante di 3,35 carati

2 Colored diamonds
The colored diamonds are the stars of the last years and at the auctions mark stratospheric prices. But, be careful: they must certainly have a certification with their characteristics, for example, whether they have been treated or not to bring out the color. A heated diamond can be more lively, but certainly a natural stone has more appeal. Not only. A small but refined stone is always preferable to a large but faulty one. “What’s the point of having a 50-carat emerald, but if it’s full of inclusions?” Asks Warren. “Better an 8-10-carat stone that is a jewel, worth between 40 thousand and 60 thousand dollars per carat, rather than a stone of 50 carats which, however, is worth a maximum of 3 thousand per carat”. In short, if you want to buy a stone, in addition to the overall price, also you must consider the price per carat.

Diamanti giallo, rosso, blu, rosa
Diamanti colorati di diversi tagli e colori

3 Portability
Profits in jewelry auctions grow and for Christie’s every year is better than the previous one. Part of this seems to be due to portability, that is, the fact that jewels and diamonds can move easily from one place to another. In other words, they are an investment in a pocket. “You can not buy a house in central Paris and then, when the market goes down, move the investment to London. But with a diamond in your pocket you can go anywhere. ” So if someone had bought colored diamonds in the 1970s and sold them in 1990, the gain would have been great, but who bought them in 1990 and sold them now would have a much larger profit. ” And attention, it is said that also counts the provenance and prestige of the previous owner, but according to the expert this is true but not fundamental. What matters is quality.

Chanel Comètes, orecchini Étoile Filante, con 93 diamanti taglio brillante e montatura in oro bianco a forma di stella
Chanel Comètes, orecchini Étoile Filante, con 93 diamanti taglio brillante

4 It is not just a question of time
Some contemporary pieces trigger real wars at auction and their final value far exceeds the estimates. It was the case, just to give an example, of Jar’s Parrot Tulip bracelet, sold for over 3 million and a half dollars at the Magnificent Jewel auction in Geneva, despite the estimate being between 200 thousand and 300 thousand dollars . In short, there are brilliant contemporary designers working all over the world: Lorenz Bäumer in Paris, Vicente Gracia in Valencia, and Michelle Ong, Wallace Chan and Edmond Chin in Hong Kong. You can even transform an old jewel, with a result that can be surprising. For example, Warren tells of one of his clients in possession of some sapphires and diamonds mounted by Gérard, who entrusted them to Jar to make it a new jewel. According to Christie’s expert, although displeased that the artistic legacy of such an important name was lost, the transformation into a large, massive cross with five sapphires surrounded by a pavé of diamonds is one of the best creations of a true genius, the contemporary equivalent of Fabergé.

Jar, bracciale Parrot Tulip in oro modellato a forma di foglie due che circondano il polso con diamanti e granati verdi
Jar, bracciale Parrot Tulip in oro modellato a forma di foglie due che circondano il polso con diamanti e granati verdi

5 Go hunting
Collecting jewels, explains Warren, is like hunting: you have to be patient and wait for the right prey. In this way you can conclude a good deal and, at the same time, use your money well. Monica Battistoni

 

Anna Hu con David Warren di Christie's (da Facebook)
Anna Hu con David Warren di Christie’s (da Facebook)
christie's collana
Collana con diamanti tagliati a pera e pendente da 20,20 carati. Venduta da Christie’s per 4,5 milioni di euro
collana Art Deco con ciondolo composto da un diamante eccezionale (colore D, Internally Flawless) di 16,24 carati, all'asta da Christie's
Collana Art Deco con ciondolo composto da un diamante eccezionale (colore D, Internally Flawless) di 16,24 carati, all’asta da Christie’s
Asta di Christie's
Asta di Christie’s
Bracciale venduto per 3,5 milioni da Christie's
Bracciale venduto per 3,5 milioni da Christie’s
Anello di Etcetera venduto da Christie's per 3,3 milioni di dollari
Anello di Etcetera venduto da Christie’s per 3,3 milioni di dollari







Chrysler and The Dancing Sun, two super diamonds with Christie’s




Spring is one of the two periods of the year when large jewelery auctions are concentrated. After the one in Geneva, Christie’s offers another Magnificent Jewels auction in New York for June 8, preceded by the online sale of jewelery from 20 May to 4 June. The auction includes a significant selection of colored diamonds, colorless diamonds and precious stones, along with pieces signed by Bulgari, Cartier, Graff, Harry Winston, Jar, Tiffany & Co and Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimates range from $ 10,000 to $ 3,500,000.

The Dancing Sun, 204,36 carati, e altri diamanti gialli originari della stessa pietra grezza
The Dancing Sun, 204,36 carati, e altri diamanti gialli originari della stessa pietra grezza

The auction on June 8 is led by The Dancing Sun, a huge intense yellow diamond of 204.36 carats, VVS2 purity (estimate 3.5-5.5 million dollars). The Dancing Sun is the largest honed diamond mined in North America. This exceptional stone, along with six additional diamonds (lots 62-67) ranging from 14.52 to 1.06 carats, were cut and polished from the largest quality rough diamond found in North America: weighing 552, 74 carat, the stone was discovered in 2018 by the Diavik Diamond Mine in Canada.

The Chrysler Diamond, diamante a forma di pera di 54,03 carati, colore D, Internally Flawless
The Chrysler Diamond, diamante a forma di pera di 54,03 carati, colore D, Internally Flawless

Also featured is the Chrysler Diamond, a magnificent pear-shaped diamond of 54.03 carats, color D, Internally Flawless (estimate 3.5-4.5 million). The story of this exceptional stone began in 1958, when Harry Winston bought what was then known as the Louis XIV diamond owned by Thelma Chrysler Foy, daughter of Walter Chrysler, an automotive entrepreneur who also gave his name to the famous Art Deco skyscraper in New York. Set for the first time in a tiara and exhibited at the Musée du Louvre (1962), the diamond was sold by Winston in 1963, along with a 61.80-carat diamond, to Eleanor Loder. The current owner acquired the pair of gems in 1983: now the diamonds are referred to as the Gemini and included in Notable Diamonds of the World. The Chrysler diamond is now mounted in a necklace and will rightfully go to auction in New York.

Orecchini con perle e diamanti di Jar
Orecchini con perle e diamanti di Jar

The Christies auction includes an important selection of jewels from the mythical Jar, which includes almost 20 creations. The most important piece is a pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings (estimate 700,000-1,000,000 dollars). Joel Arthur Rosenthal’s passion for unparalleled perfection and innovation earned him a retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 2013: he is the first living jeweler to be granted this honor. Three jewels for sale from this collection, Lots 150, 152 and 154, were presented in this prestigious exhibition.

The Flawless Match, anello composto da un diamante blu brillante a forma di pera di 2,52 carati e un diamante a forma di pera di 2,43 carati, colore D, Internally Flawless, Tipo IIa
The Flawless Match, anello composto da un diamante blu brillante a forma di pera di 2,52 carati e un diamante a forma di pera di 2,43 carati, colore D, Internally Flawless, Tipo IIa

Additional highlights of the auction include The Flawless Match, a ring composed of a brilliant blue pear-shaped diamond of 2.52 carats and a pear-shaped diamond of 2.43 carats, color D, Internally Flawless, Type IIa. Also on sale are another 2.58 carat deep purplish pink collectible diamond, a rare 4.10 carat fancy blue-gray diamond ring and an 11.93 carat emerald-cut diamond, color G, purity VS2, by Harry Winston.
Diamante di colore rosa violaceo intenso di 2,58 carati
Diamante di colore rosa violaceo intenso di 2,58 carati

The online jewelry sale (May 20-June 4) features a wide selection of fine jewelry and iconic designs by Bvlgari, Cartier, David Webb, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., JAR and Van Cleef & Arpels.
The Dancing Sun prima di essere tagliato
The Dancing Sun prima di essere tagliato

The Dancing Sun, analisi della pietra. Photo: Arctic Canadian Diamond Company
The Dancing Sun, analisi della pietra. Photo: Arctic Canadian Diamond Company







Jar, a successful mystery




Jar’s jewels, a mystery that has lasted for over 40 years: a myth protected from the lights that shines for its exceptional artistic genius ♦

It is easier to buy a Hermes kelly without reservation that a jewel of Jar on a waiting list. Not only because Joel Arthur Rosenthal from 1977 produces a maximum of 120 pieces per year: the real obstacle is pleasing as possible purchaser. In fact, the jeweler follows just one rule in his work: create what he wants, when he wants, for who he wants. So it happens that the jewel a customer want to buy, among his clientele there is Lily Safra, Gwyneth Paltrow and Madonna, is not exactly what he believes look really good on them and he tries to convince of that. Needless to negotiate, take it or give.

Spilla con fiore di tormalina e diamanti
Spilla con fiore di tormalina e diamanti by Jar

But it seems worthwhile to stand his character, because a jewel of Jar is a safe investment, according to the auction prices of the last 20 years: in fact, the man has been called the Faberge of our time, has one of the highest proportions of sale of jewels auctioned (approximately 82%), with a double value than the estimates and above a revaluation over time, constant and growing. Knows something about this who purchased in 2002 for $ 41,000 (about 33 000 euro), Etoiles de Mer earrings, with natural pearls and diamonds, resold at an auction at Christie’s in 2014 for about $ 217,000, approximately 174 000 EUR: a revaluation of over 500%.

Spilla con diamanti, cacholong e titanio
Spilla con diamanti, cacholong e titanio

And what about the earrings with natural pearls, rubies and diamonds sold for the first time in 2012 for 30,000 dollars (24,000 euros) and were then resold by Sotheby’s for 425,000 dollars (about 350,000 euros). The fact that Jar is the first living jeweler to have had a retrospective dedicated to him at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York will certainly have an influence. But it is certain that Rosenthal is considered at the top of high jewelery, a true innovator like Fulco Verdura. And to think that his professional history began in a surprising way: born in New York City in 1943, Rosenthal graduated in art history and philosophy from Harvard before moving to Paris, where he opened an embroidery shop. His experiments with unusual yarn colors attracted the attention of the designers of Hermès and Valentino. Then he moved on to jewelry: in New York he worked for Bulgari, before returning to Paris and opening his legendary atelier in Place Vendôme with his partner Pierre Jeannet.

Orecchini Pansy in alluminio e dettagli in oro giallo
Orecchini Pansy in alluminio e dettagli in oro giallo

In 2002 he caused a sensation at an exhibition at Somerset House in London, which consecrated the myth of Jar. To thank the 145 customers who lent the jewels for the 400-piece show, he sent everyone a pair of colored aluminum Pansy earrings. A symbolic gift: it alludes to the French word for pansy. And the thousands of aluminum earrings that went on sale at the exhibition were sold out in a couple of days. Another milestone is the Mogol bracelet, which was auctioned by Christie’s in April 2002: it is one of the earliest examples of JAR’s use of oxidized titanium. The metallic purple of the titanium is accompanied by flowers on the edges and continues inside the jewel: a tribute to traditional Indian jewelry. Another recurring motif of Jar is that of nature, with the animal and floral world transformed into jewels.
Anello con smeraldi e diamanti
Anello con smeraldi e diamanti

Anello Fleur de Lys con diamanti di diverso taglio
Anello Fleur de Lys con diamanti di diverso taglio
Orecchini Geranium in alluminio e oro
Orecchini Geranium in alluminio e oro
Camelia in pavé di rubini per 173,09 carati, argento e oro
Camelia in pavé di rubini per 173,09 carati, argento e oro

Anello con zaffiro e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro e diamanti







Challenge between diamonds at Christie’s auction




What is the price of a 115.8 carat diamond? If you are interested, you can refer to the evaluation obtained at the first post covid auction of Christie’s which took place in New York. The VVS1 quality diamond, color F, 115.8 carat pear-shaped, suspended as a pendant on a diamond necklace, was sold for $ 6.29 million, reaching the experts’ estimate. The maxi diamond was the most prized piece of the Magnificent Jewels auction held at Rockefeller Center, which totaled $ 28.1 million for 87% of lots sold by value.

Diamante di qualità VVS1, colore F, di 115,8 carati a forma di pera
Diamante classificato VVS1, colore F, di 115,8 carati a forma di pera

It is always interesting to note the changes in interest (and price) on diamonds. If the 115.8 carat stone was bought for 6.29 million, an intense blue diamond of only 7.16 carats mounted on platinum was sold for $ 3.85 million: about 50% of the colorless one despite its size is only 7.5% compared to the larger one. In contrast, a 7.65-carat VS2-classed fancy purplish pink, pear cut, diamond mounted on a platinum and 18-carat rose gold ring was sold for $ 819,000, less then others, however above estimate.
Diamante blu intenso di 7,16 carati
Diamante blu intenso di 7,16 carati

Great success for four rectangular Colombian emeralds from 90 to 154 carats. The gems were sold for $ 519,000, tripling his estimate of $ 150,000. To note the appreciation obtained from vintage pieces, as for a pair of gold earrings by Man Ray, which has almost multiplied for ten the value of the estimate, a coral, onyx and diamond bracelet from Bulgari, a bracelet of rubies, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds, by Van Cleef & Arpels and the six jewels of the artist-jeweler, Jar, all assigned with values ​​higher than estimated. Federico Graglia
Diamante rosa violaceo chiaro fantasia classificato VS2 da 7,65 carati
Diamante rosa violaceo chiaro fantasia classificato VS2 da 7,65 carati

Bracciale con corallo cabochon ovale e triangolare, onice, diamanti, oro 18 carati di Bulgari
Bracciale con corallo cabochon ovale e triangolare, onice, diamanti, oro 18 carati di Bulgari

Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e grigi su oro e platino di Jar
Orecchini con diamanti bianchi e grigi su oro e platino di Jar
Orecchini Pendantif-Pendant di Man Ray
Orecchini Pendantif-Pendant di Man Ray
Spilla con rubino scolpito, ebano, oro di Jar
Spilla con rubino scolpito, ebano, oro di Jar
Bracciale di Van Cleef & Arpels con smeraldo, zaffiri e diamanti su oro e platino
Bracciale di Van Cleef & Arpels con smeraldo, zaffiri e diamanti su oro e platino







A blue diamond for Christie’s

Blue diamonds, transformable jewels and rare gems at Christie’s auction in Geneva ♦ ︎

Autumn is one of the two moments of the year (the other is late spring) in which the major auctions of great jewelery are held. The Christie’s auction in Geneva, with its Magnificent Jewels, on November 12th presents a series of pieces of great value, but also of simple (and expensive) gems.

Anello con diamante  fancy deep blue di 7,03 carati montato da Moussaieff
Anello con diamante fancy deep blue di 7,03 carati montato da Moussaieff

The eyes are on a ring with a fancy deep blue diamond of 7.03 carats assembled by Moussaieff, estimated at 7.8 – 10.9 million pounds, and on a diamond ring of 46.93 carats of the highest quality, color D, internally flawless clarity (estimate 2.9 – 3.5 million).
Bandeau di diamanti Art Déco di Cartier
Bandeau di diamanti Art Déco di Cartier

Among the jewels of the catalog shine the transformable jewels, with innovative Art Deco designs by Cartier, including three brooches that were part of the collection of Jane Beatrice Mills, Countess of Granard (1883-1972). Additional items for sale include a superb Cartier Art Deco diamond bandeau, which can also be worn as a crew neck, two bracelets and as a brooch and the iconic diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels.
Anello con rubino sangue di piccione
Anello con rubino sangue di piccione

The auction will also present an unusual Belle Époque brooch in turquoise and diamonds, around 1910, acquired by the Australian soprano Nellie Melba at the height of her career. Among the other prized pieces there are also a pendant with a large 42,97 carat Burmese sapphire, estimated at 1.5 – 2.3 million, an important pair of untreated Colombian emerald earrings of over 7.5 carats each and a ring Burmese ruby ​​red pigeon blood of 3.88 carats.
Orecchini e spilla con turchesi di Pierre Sterlé
Orecchini e spilla con turchesi di Pierre Sterlé

Finally, on the sales counter there is also an important series of 119 natural salt water and diamond pearls (estimate 389,000 – 545,000 pounds) and jewelry of the famous designer Pierre Sterlé, considered emblematic of the Fifties and Sixties.
Visits to the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, Geneva from 7 to 12 November.




Collana Zip di Van Cleef & Arpels
Collana Zip di Van Cleef & Arpels
Anello con smeraldi e diamanti di Jar
Anello con smeraldi e diamanti di Jar
Spilla con zaffiro e diamanti di Cartier
Spilla con zaffiro e diamanti di Cartier

Orecchini con diamanti fancy yellow
Orecchini con diamanti fancy yellow

Anello con diamante fancy intense blue di 5,23 carati
Anello con diamante fancy intense blue di 5,23 carati

Bracciale art déco con smalto, smeraldo cabochon e topazi di Georges Fouquet
Bracciale art déco con smalto, smeraldo cabochon e topazi di Georges Fouquet







Sabba, the birth of a myth

Alessandro Sabbatini’s high jewelry, a designer who loves privacy and lets only his creations talk ♦ ︎

Alessandro Sabbatini when was 15, has been struck by an exhibition of diamonds in Rome. From that day his passion were the jewels, so much so that after school he went to work in a workshop to learn the craft of the goldsmith. He also found to have talent, that has applied in prestigious Maison, including Cartier in Paris. Not surprisingly, then, he has created a brand that bears his nickname, Sabba.

Orecchini a clip in titanio e diamanti
Orecchini a clip in titanio e diamanti

But he is not easy to know: hasn’t a website, does not grant interviews. Yet her jewelry are difficult to forget. And they are also of high quality, from the choice of stones, but also pearls. The style may seem eclectic, unique, surprising. The designer offers only 30 to 40 pieces per year, unique pieces of the highest quality. Sabba’s style manages to use the best of tradition, but adds new ideas, materials and silhouettes. For example, he pairs titanium with mine-cut diamonds to create high-impact jewelry that is extraordinarily lightweight and wearable. His name, that someone has already approached Jar, begins to circulate among fans. That is been born a myth?

Anello con giada e diamanti. Al centro un diamante taglio cuscino di 1,19 carati
Anello con giada e diamanti. Al centro un diamante taglio cuscino di 1,19 carati
Collana multigemma con agata
Collana multigemma con agata
Orecchini con ametista
Orecchini con ametista
Orecchini Wave con diamanti
Orecchini Wave con diamanti
Orecchini in titanio e diamanti
Orecchini in titanio e diamanti
Orecchini con corallo e zaffiri rosa
Orecchini con corallo e zaffiri rosa
Orecchini con turchesi
Orecchini con turchesi
Orecchini con zaffiri
Orecchini con zaffiri

Christie’s success for the maharaja’s auction





The jewels of the Maharajas of the Al Thani collection sold by Christie’s at an auction of 109 million dollars ♦ ︎

It seems that the era of the maharajas retains a great charm. And, in particular, they have fascinated the opulent jewels that were part of the celebrated Al Thani collection, emir of Qatar. Indeed, judging by the outcome of the Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence auction organized by Christie’s in New York, these jewels beat everyone. Thanks also to the tour organized by Christie’s in London, Shanghai, Geneva and Hong Kong, in addition to the New York exhibition, which welcomed 50,000 visitors.

Devant-de-corsage epoca Belle Époque, Cartier, 1912. Venduto per 10,6 milioni
Devant-de-corsage epoca Belle Époque, Cartier, 1912. Venduto per 10,6 milioni

The auction that included the jewels of Indian nobles ended after a 12-hour marathon. Result: sales of 109.3 million dollars (equal to 97.5 million euros), with 93% of the pieces sold. No wonder the auction has established the highest total for any sale of Indian and Mughal art objects, and the second highest auction total for a private jewelry collection.
The sale was presented in partnership between Christie’s jewelry department and the World Art department, together with the independent art consultancy The Fine Art Group.

Collana antica di spinello imperiale, perle e smeraldi
Collana antica di spinello imperiale, perle e smeraldi

It’s worth going into detail: during the sale, three worldwide auction records for Indian works of art were touched and 29 lots were sold for over 1 million dollars. The top lot has been touched by a devant-de-corsage jewel (that is, worn on the chest), the Belle Époque era by Cartier, Paris, 1912, sold for 10.6 million to a private collector. Among the other lots that have reached top prices, there is also the Diamond of Paradise diamond, 52.58 carats, D Color, IF, which reached 6.5 million, while a dagger with carved jade handle, Lo Shah Jahan Dagger, was sold for 3.4 million, a record for an object of Indian jade and record for a piece Shah Jahan.

 Shah Jahan Dagger
Shah Jahan Dagger

We are very honored to have been entrusted with this magnificent and diverse selection of jewels, art and objects from the larger Al Thani Collection. The strong results today, after twelve hours of non-stop bidding, in front of a packed room and with phone and online bidders from all over the world, reflect the exceptional quality of this special collection and position it among the most storied private collections ever featured at auction.
Guillaume Cerutti, CEO of Christie’s

Collana Nizam of -Hyderabad, dettaglio
Collana Nizam of -Hyderabad, dettaglio

Let’s go back to jewels: an ancient necklace of imperial spinel, pearls and emeralds was sold for 3 million, the Golconda Diamond Rivière necklace, from the collection of the Nizams of Hyderabad, which was sold for 2.4 million. And a necklace of emeralds Imperial Moghul Necklace and earrings, were sold for 1.9 million.

Collana Golconda Diamond Rivière
Collana Golconda Diamond Rivière

But the auction was not only occupied by the jewels of the maharajas. For example, all the contemporary pieces by Jar and Bhagat have been sold, far exceeding the estimates. Federico Graglia

L'asta Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence organizzata da Christie’s a New York
L’asta Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence organizzata da Christie’s a New York
Il diamante The Mirror of Paradise, 52,58 carati, D Color, IF, venduto per 6,5 milioni
Il diamante The Mirror of Paradise, 52,58 carati, D Color, IF, venduto per 6,5 milioni
Smeraldo scolpito con due montanti intercambiabili e diamanti di Cartier
Smeraldo scolpito con due montanti intercambiabili e diamanti di Cartier
Aigrette di diamanti e smalti di Mellerio dit Mellerio, venduto per 650.000 dollari
Aigrette di diamanti e smalti di Mellerio dit Mellerio, venduto per 650.000 dollari
Fibbia per cintura di di Cartier con smeraldo, zaffiri e diamanti, Venduta per 1,5 milioni
Fibbia per cintura di di Cartier con smeraldo, zaffiri e diamanti, Venduta per 1,5 milioni
Ornamento per turbante venduto per 1,8 milioni
Ornamento per turbante venduto per 1,8 milioni







Christie’s in auction with rare pearls and three Jar





The Magnificent Jewels at Christie’s auction in Geneva: sapphires, pearls of historical origin and three pieces of Jar ♦ ︎

There will not be only The Pink Legacy, the 19-carat rose diamond estimated at up to 50 million dollars to attract the attention of collectors on November 13 in Geneva. The auction of Magnificent Jewels by Christie’s at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues provides, in fact, a parade of over 300 jewels. Diamonds, in fact, but also precious stones and pearls, with jewels of historic Maison and contemporary masters like Jar.

Orecchini con zaffiri di 40.29 e 38.60 carati e diamanti bianchi taglio circolare di David Morris
Orecchini con zaffiri di 40.29 e 38.60 carati e diamanti bianchi taglio circolare di David Morris

For example, the earrings with sapphires of 40.29 and 38.60 carats and white circular cut diamonds of David Morris, or a Panthére of Cartier with diamonds and onyx. Out of the ordinary is also the 16.33 carat cushion-cut sapphire set with triangular-shaped and circular-cut diamonds and a 7.83-karat Kashmir sapphire set among baguette-cut diamonds.

Christie’s also highlights the steel and diamond tiara designed by Cartier, dated 1912-1915.

Tiara in acciaio e diamanti firmata da Cartier, e datata 1912-1915
Tiara in acciaio e diamanti firmata da Cartier, e datata 1912-1915

It brings the brand of creator Henri Picq, who was responsible for some of the most exceptional jewelry made by Cartier in the early twentieth century. This tiara was not only designed by one of the greatest fashion houses of all time, but was also made by one of the best laboratories in the world at the time. After a long history, the tiara was part of the heritage of the von Fürstenberg family until 2015.
Among the pieces of the big names in jewelery, there is an Egyptian-style sautoir by Van Cleef & Arpels dated 1924, in full Egyptology of those years. It depicts a winged scarab, representing Khepri, the morning sun. In antiquity these objects were placed on the chest of the dead as a symbol of resurrection. The cartouche-shaped panel surrounding the scarab remembers those used to write the names of kings in the hieroglyphs. The hawk was the protector of royalty in ancient Egypt.

Sautoir in stile egizio di Van Cleef & Arpels datato 1924
Sautoir in stile egizio di Van Cleef & Arpels datato 1924

The three jewels of Jar for sale were purchased by their current owners directly from the Place Vendôme atelier in Paris and will be offered for auction for the first time.

The spectacular multi-bud brooch Bouquet of violets was created in 1993 and includes pink tourmalines, rubies, sapphires, colored and colorless diamonds, green garnets and tanzanites. The butterfly brooch dates back to 1990, while the Ivy Leaves earrings, created a year later, are set with single-cut diamonds in silver and gold.

Jar, orecchini Ivy Leaves, incastonati con diamanti a taglio singolo in argento e oro
Jar, orecchini Ivy Leaves, incastonati con diamanti a taglio singolo in argento e oro

For pearl lovers, there are some with an adventurous story. Like the pearl necklace purchased by Cartier in May 1920 by Horace Elgin Dodge (1868-1920),a former mechanics who became rich in America producing engines and automobiles. Horace Dodge gave the necklace to his daughter by paying a sum equivalent to 70 million today’s dollars. The origin of the pearls is attributed to the Empress of Russia Catherine the Great.

The Dodge Pearls
The Dodge Pearls





Jar, spilla Butterfly
Jar, spilla Butterfly

spilla multi-gemma Bouquet of violets è stata creata nel 1993 e comprende tormaline rosa, rubini, zaffiri, diamanti colorati e incolori, granati verdi e tanzaniti
spilla multi-gemma Bouquet of violets è stata creata nel 1993 e comprende tormaline rosa, rubini, zaffiri, diamanti colorati e incolori, granati verdi e tanzaniti

Collana con diamanti taglio rettangolare, marquise e baguette. Ex proprietà Maria Luisa de Lacambra, figlia del conte di Lacambra
Collana con diamanti taglio rettangolare, marquise e baguette. Ex proprietà Maria Luisa de Lacambra, figlia del conte di Lacambra

Spilla Panthére di Cartier
Spilla Panthére di Cartier

Spilla di Pierre Sterlé che raffigura un uccello del Paradiso con rubini, diamanti e acquamarina
Spilla di Pierre Sterlé che raffigura un uccello del Paradiso con rubini, diamanti e acquamarina

Il diamante Pink Legacy in un anello
Il diamante Pink Legacy in un anello







Jar and a pink diamond are the stars at Christie’s

A pink diamond and a ring of Jar are the stars of Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York ♦ ︎
Spring returns to pink, like peach blossoms and like the diamond that Christie’s sells at the Magnificent Jewels auction in New York on April 17th. The diamond is mounted on a platinum and rose gold ring. It is an 8.42 carat stone, intense rose fancy brilliant cut but «modified rectangular», VVS1 clarity and «potentially internally impeccable». On the sides the stone has two other baguette diamonds. The ring is valued between 4 and 6 million dollars.
But, of course, the auction has other interesting pieces of Maison such as Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Harry Winston, Tiffany & Co. in the catalog. It is not necessary to be a millionaire to participate (also online) in the purchase: prices start at 4000 dollars. Among the most popular pieces there are classic jewels, like a necklace of diamonds and emeralds by Van Cleef & Arpels (estimate up to 1.25 million dollars), or rings with big diamonds.
Two rare Jar
But there are also rare jewels and coveted by collectors, like two pieces signed Jar, designer who has fans all over the world. If you do not know him, know that Jar represents the initials of Joel Arthur Rosenthal, born in 1943 in New York in a family of modest possibilities. He graduated from Harvard in 1966, and then moved to Paris. Before joining the Olympus of jewelry, he worked as a screenwriter. She refined her skills with Bulgari in New York, and then returned to Paris where she opened a boutique in Place Vendôme with her partner, Pierre Jeannet. His rare pieces are received almost like an event. In this case, Christie’s auctioned jewels will benefit the Art for Justice Fund, which aims to reform the justice system in the United States.
Jar’s jewels at auction are, therefore, a Moghul style brooch, created in 1999, in silver and 18-karat gold. It consists of a kind of stylized dome with an amethyst pavé surrounding a 14.77 carat cushioned sapphire. The pendant has a border of diamonds and a tassel of natural pearls. Not only that: the back is a pavé of diamonds. Necklace and pendant are valued up to $ 300,000. The second piece is, apparently, more traditional: a ring. In reality, the 22.76-carat oval diamond, color D and VVS1 clarity, is suspended in a thin flush mount with a micro-pavé on platinum. In this case the maximum estimate is 3.5 million. Federico Graglia

Graff in blue, Christie’s golden year




With two twin blue diamonds from Graff it closes a golden year for Christie’s ♦ ︎
In view of Christmas, the wallet opens more easily. Especially if the expense is to buy Magnificent Jewels. So the Christie’s auction in New York ended with a total sales of $ 62.5 million. 88% of the lots were awarded and 85% by value. The top piece turned out to be a ring by Graff, 3.36 and 2.71 carat Superb Twin-Stone Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond, which reached $ 12.5 million. Two blue twin diamonds, in fact, are quite rare.
Along with the Graff ring, pieces of Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Jar, Van Cleef & Arpels and others were sold. Christie’s also points out that even unique jewelry signed by artists, which are rarely appreciated at auction, have been well received. But pieces of Charles Loloma, Georges Fouquet and Raymond Templier were sold above the starting estimates. The auction chronicle (held on December 6) also records the success of the sold private collections, such as Property From The Collection by Senator Jacob K. Javits and Marian B. Javits, the jewels that belonged to Hank Greenberg, and the collection of Dwight D. and Mamie Eisenhower. In short, a gold closure for Christie’s vintage, back from the sale of emblematic pieces such as The Art of de Grisogono, Creation 1, the largest impeccable D-color diamond ever auctioned, which set a new record world auction for 33.7 million, or Le Grand Mazarin, a light pink diamond of 19.07 carats sold for 14.4 million, and the sale in Hong Kong of The Pink Promise for 32.1 million, world record price per carat of a pink diamond. Federico Graglia