gioielli

The crown jewels of Holland

Even the royals of Holland can boast a good number of important jewels. Here are what are ♦

Years ago, Maxima from the Netherlands was included among the 100 most influential people in the world by Time magazine for her social commitment. And she really seems like a lucky woman: she married a prince, she became queen, after Beatrice of Holland abdicated in favor of her son Willem-Alexander in 2013. Maxima Zorreguieta Cerruti, born in Argentina, also had access to one of the richest jewelery collections in Europe. It is a heritage accumulated over the centuries and kept intact thanks to a brilliant solution: that of bringing together the most important pieces in a foundation. And if the female members of the family can use them based on their dynastic role, some of these very precious jewels are reserved exclusively for the reigning queen or consort. Just like Queen Máxima, who one year after her coronation demonstrated great skill in modifying and wearing them. Because these are tiaras that can be dismantled and reassembled like necklaces and bracelets and vice versa. Here’s how, starting from the diamond-sapphire tiara worn on the day of the coronation.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara e gli orecchini della parure di zaffiri
Maxima of Holland with the tiara and earrings of the sapphire set

Sapphire Parure. Made in 1881 for Queen Emma, the tiara, which is part of the Sapphire Parure, has 655 South African round brilliant cut diamonds with a total of 242 carat and 33 sapphires of Cashmere 155 carats. One cushion cut sapphire surrounded by two smaller sapphires and five diamonds on each side is the central element, that can also be worn separately as a brooch. To make it lighter than the new queen has eliminates the three diamonds set in the shape of lilies on the top and replaces them with a single large diamond. The choker of this parure was worn as a tiara adding on top five elements each constituted by one central sapphire surrounded by diamonds in a diamond-shaped set.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la collana della parure di zaffiri indossata come tiara
Maxima of Holland with the sapphire set necklace worn as a tiara

Diamond tiara .It’s a Queen Emma wedding gift from the in 1879, and it was originally topped by three star of diamonds 12-pointed. Now it is composed of three central diamonds that can be replaced by rubies.

Dettaglio della tiara con 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Detail of the tiara with 34 rose-cut diamonds

Rose-cut diamond tiara Tiara formed by a row of 34 large diamonds embedded on the plaque of platinum (chaton) a very popular fashion in the mid-nineteenth century, which can be used as a tiara or necklace.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di 34 diamanti taglio rosa
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of 34 rose-cut diamonds

Tiara of antiques pearls Belonged to the Grand Duchess Ana Pavlovna of Russia, wife of William II of the Netherlands, is made up of diamonds and seven pear-shaped pearls that appears to date back to 1600.

Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara delle perle antiche
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of ancient pearls

Tiara of daisies Transformed several times, initially had on top five pearls round each surrounded by ten diamonds brilliant cut, in order to form a daisy, in fact. In 2002, in lieu of flowers the stars were included handed down by Queen Emma, the second wife of William III. The star-shaped jewelry were popular in the late nineteenth century, and it was Sissi Empress Elisabeth of Austria to bring it to its success using them as barrettes in her hair.

La tiara delle margherite
The daisy tiara

Tiara Mellerio is part of a parure consisting of a necklace, a bracelet and a brooch with rubies and diamonds in large quantities: 385 gems in the tiara, necklace in 425 and 135 in the cuff.

La tiara Mellerio con bracciali e orecchini
The Mellerio tiara with bracelets and earrings

Wurttenberg Tiara is a tiara with an intricate design of diamonds and pearls forming swirls and lilies, surmounted by two rows of pearl teardrop-shaped, six at the bottom and five in the top, both of which are removable and are therefore four possible versions : with or without beads, with the first or second row. It has always been the favorite of the former Queen Beatrix, who since her wedding day worn it in all official occasions.

Dettaglio della tiara Wurttenberg
Detail of the Wurttenberg tiara
Maxìma d’Olanda con la tiara di tre diamanti centrali sostituibili con i rubini
Maxima of Holland with the tiara of three central diamonds replaceable with rubies
Dettaglio della tiara delle margherite-stelle
Detail of the daisy-star tiara
La tiara dele perle antiche senza perle
The antique pearl tiara without pearls

The secret of Asscher house

The diamond jewels of the Asscher dynasty, which gaves its name to one of the most famous types of cut of the most precious stones ♦

Many know Asscher because it is also the name of a particular cut of diamonds. But the Royal Asscher Diamond Company, a Dutch company founded in 1854 by the Asscher family, also produces jewelery, which obviously make extensive use of diamonds. Do you think that the headquarters of the company is still the original one, in Tolstraat street, in Amsterdam. In the jewels there are the elements of the Arts and Crafts movement, which gave life to the Art Nouveau style, and then evolved into the Art Deco. Really regal pieces of jewelry. On the other hand, it is named after the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1980, when it was conferred the honor of royal supplier by Queen Juliana. And in 2011 Queen Beatrice perpetuated the prefix “Royal” for another 25 years.

Orecchini Pavo con diamanti taglio Asscher
Pavo earrings with Asscher cut diamonds

Royal Asscher is still owned by the Asscher family. It became famous in the early 20th century for the work of Joseph and Abraham Asscher, and became the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1980, when it was awarded the Royal Dutch Predicate by Queen Juliana of the Netherlands in recognition of the company’s importance in the Netherlands and worldwide.

Orecchini con diamanti per 1 carato con taglio Asscher
1 carat Asscher cut diamond earrings

The Asscher cut was born in 1902, invented by Joseph Asscher, who patented this special shape for the diamond. It was also the world’s first patented diamond cut. The original design featured 58 stepped facets and a steep pavilion with cut corners. Basically, it is an emerald cut diamond, but square and with cut corners. The Asscher cut was a staple of art deco and art nouveau era jewelry, with its straight lines and faceted arrangement making it perfect for clean, graphic elements brought to life by movement.
Riproduzione della corona reale britannica, esposta nella sede di Asscher, con il grande diamante Cullinam
Reproduction of the British royal crown, exhibited in Asscher, with the large Cullinam diamonds

The history of the company is linked to some extraordinary diamonds: the Excelsior of 997 carats, one of the largest diamonds found. In 1903 Abraham Asscher divided the stone into ten diamonds to minimize defects (some inclusions). The diamond Excelsior is finished (but it is unknown if it is a merit) to be worn as a pendant from the bra, during the 2003 Victoria Secret Fantasy Bra show, worn by Heidi Klum. A complete intimate of about 13 million dollars. Another historical diamond is the Cullinan, discovered in 1905, of 3,106 carats (621.2 g). The diamond was presented to King Edward VII, who invited the Asscher brothers to London to discuss how to cut the stone. Joseph Asscher divided the Cullinan into three parts. Then there are nine large stones: the largest is 530.20 carats (106.040 g), the Cullinan I. It is part of the jewels of the British crown.

[caption id="attachment_85020" align="aligncenter" width="709"]Anelli di fidanzamento della Maison Asscher Engagement rings from the Maison Asscher

A curiosity: during the months of the coronavirus epidemic, Mike and Lita Asscher decided they wanted to help fight covid-19 by creating a mask that printed the image of Asscher diamonds. The mask is made of non-medical fabric and is sold online: the profits were destined for scientists at the LUMC (Leiden University Medical Center).

Orecchini in oro giallo e diamanti
Yellow gold and diamond earrings
Anello con diamante taglio ovale
Ring with oval cut diamond
Anello con diamante taglio Asscher
Ring with Asscher cut diamond

Ingo Henn, luxury and surprises

Stones, volumes, romanticism and rationality: the jewelry of Ingo Henn with his Henn of London ♦

Ingo Henn belongs to the category of those who wanted to design jewelry since childhood. Not only that: as a child he loved the big colored stones. And he made it a profession. The designer, of German origin, but transplanted to London, uses precious stones with unique colors. Let’s face it all: it is the son of Hans-Jürgen Henn, one of the main gem dealers. As a good German, Ingo has done things right: he studied the profession of goldsmith (gemmology has learned at home), has traveled, has known techniques and designers at the highest level.

Anello con tormalina paraiba del Mozambico, diamanti, platino
Anello con tormalina paraiba del Mozambico, diamanti, platino

In the mid-nineties he decided to have learned what was necessary and founded his brand in the jewelery district of Hatton Garden, in London. The jewelry is right next to the offices of the company that trades in gems. Germanic rationality. But this does not prevent Ingo Henn from developing some of the most romantically eclectic jewels of our century, with his Maison, Henn of London. Precious stones of refined color and quality, but combined with a precious design for the combination of colors and surprising use of volumes. His jewels are unique pieces, designed around the color and type of stone used.

Pendente in oro giallo, con granati mandarino, diamanti e smalto
Pendente in oro giallo, con granati mandarino, diamanti e smalto
Pendente in oro bianco con tanzanite intagliata a mano da 57,45 carati, diamanti, smalto
Pendente in oro bianco con tanzanite intagliata a mano da 57,45 carati, diamanti, smalto
Pendente con topazio rosa, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco
Pendente con topazio rosa, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco
Pendente con acquamarina Santa Maria intagliata (non riscaldata), diamanti e oro bianco
Pendente con acquamarina Santa Maria intagliata (non riscaldata), diamanti e oro bianco
Orecchini con tanzaniti ovali, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco 18 carati
Orecchini con tanzaniti ovali, diamanti, smalto, oro bianco 18 carati

Farnese Gioielli with yellow diamonds and cufflinks

Farnese Gioielli enriches its collections with the launch of new jewels. The Roman Maison is characterized by the use of a patent, registered in 70 countries around the world, the Spine, which allows jewels to be composed thanks to a modular system. In practice, different pavé surfaces can be superimposed on a gold metallic cot. The idea comes from designer Barbara Polli, who together with Alberto Serraino founded Farnese Gioielli in 2012. Now the brand renews one of its flagship lines, Habibi Collection, which is expanded thanks to the introduction of a new pendant with necklace and innovative creations of bar and oval dangling earrings.

Anelli in oro con diamanti gialli e neri
Gold rings with yellow and black diamonds

The earrings respect the sinuous design and characteristics of the line: Habibi is a word in the Arabic language which literally means “my beloved”. The mobile and interchangeable pavé of precious stones is also used in this collection: the novelty is the use of Yellow Fancy Vivid diamonds, in the highest level of color gradation (vivid). The metal band, however, is in yellow or rose gold. In addition to diamonds, the collection uses pink, yellow or orange sapphires. Another novelty from Farnese Gioielli are the Trinus cufflinks.

During my creative journey and the creation of this new jewel I thought of an elegant, erudite man, attentive to detail and a lover of art, in short, an aristocrat. I decided to pay attention to the geometries and not to interchangeability. The twin has the shape of an equilateral triangle, which symbolizes balance and perfection. It is an original accessory not only in its composition but also in its design, which for the first time allows the Maison to use the invisible setting.
Barbara Polli, creative director and co-founder

Collane con ciondolo. Oro, diamanti gialli e neri, zaffiri
Pendant necklaces. Gold, yellow and black diamonds, sapphires

The geometric base of the cufflinks is offered in two variants, yellow gold and white gold, with baguette-cut diamonds cut perfectly at the vertices of the triangle. At the center, a hard stone is harmoniously set: lapis lazuli in the yellow gold version and onyx for the white gold version. The letter F, symbol of the Brand, is engraved on the American-style clasp, made with the same hard stone.
Orecchini ovali Habibi in oro, diamanti gialli e neri, zaffiri
Habibi oval earrings in gold, yellow and black diamonds, sapphires

Gemelli Trinus in oro e onice
Trinus cufflinks in gold and onyx
Gemelli Trinus in oro e lapislazzuli
Trinus cufflinks in gold and lapis lazuli

How to combine jewels with face and skin

How to match jewelry, skin color and face shape? Here are some tips ♦

The key to the success of each look is the combination. And this also applies to jewelry: they are not neutral accessories, but must be chosen based on the dress, the occasion, the shape of the face and also the color of the skin. In short, the choice must be considered following some simple principles, for example the shape of the oval and another aspect, which is underestimated by many, the correspondence between stones and metals and the tone of your face. It is not true that yellow gold is always good: in many cases it is white or pink gold that enhances your body more.

Bracciale e collana indossati
Giovanni Raspini, silver bracelet and necklace worn

How to discover your hue: just bring a sheet of white paper (which is really white, not ivory) close to the make-up face and look carefully in the mirror at the nuances that are reflected on the paper. If it is the white of the paper it becomes slightly pink, your face has a cold tinge, while if you see a shadow with a yellow accent, the shade is warmer. Obviously there are many nuances between the two extremes. Be careful, though: you have to do this experiment using natural light (no incandescent, neon or led lamps). Not only that: the natural light, that of the sun or the sky, must not be that of the morning at dawn or in the evening just before sunset, when the sun’s rays color nature with a particularly warm shade.

Prima regola: verificate il vero colore della vostra pelle
First rule: check the true color of your skin

Gold or silver: for leathers with a colder or neutral shade, it is better to choose silver, platinum or white gold. If, on the other hand, the hue is warmer, the yellow and pink gold will stand out more, but also the bronze, the golden brass and the copper. Of course, there are also skin colors that are somewhere in between: in this case what matters is balance. But, be careful: we must not exaggerate: those with very brown, olive skin must not cover themselves with yellow gold like a Christmas tree. In summary: the metal of the jewels should be chosen in harmony with the color of the skin: who has a very light shade can choose white metals, who has a Mediterranean or dark color, will appear better with metals that have more intense shades.

Metallo bianco e pelle chiara
White metal and light skin

Stones and complementary colors: the cool shades of the skin combine well especially with white pearls and diamonds. So no color? Don’t worry, you can also wear pink, blue, red and magenta stones. The warmer tones go well with coral and earth colors, therefore brown, green, peach yellow, orange and all shades of turquoise. Attention, these are general rules: the possible combinations are really many also because there are other aspects to be taken into account such as the combination of skin, eye and hair color. In addition, the shape of the face also counts for earrings and necklaces. Not to mention that a beautiful jewel can always be worn if you like, regardless of these aspects.

Gioielli di corallo rosa di Rajola indossati dalla modella Federica Calemme
Rajola pink coral jewelery worn by model Federica Calemme

Match the jewels to the shape of the face

Heart shape: if your face is round, with a thinner chin, that is, it has a heart shape, it is better to opt for not too large hanging earrings to avoid the effect of enlarging the face. A choker necklace, on the other hand, is the most suitable accessory to soften the tip of the chin.

Collana indossata di Evanueva
Evanueva necklace worn

Round or square face: oval or geometric pendant earrings, such as rectangles, can lengthen the lines of the face and offer a sweeter symmetry. For necklaces, it is preferable to choose long ones, also in this case to streamline the shape of the face, if it develops too wide.

Orecchini con diamanti e smeraldi di Chopard indossati da Julienne Moore
Chopard diamond and emerald earrings worn by Julienne Moore

Rectangular face: the lobe earrings can give an extra touch and soften the lines of the face, without creating an imbalance. Hoop earrings are also fine, especially if they are small. As for necklaces, if the neck is beautiful and long, a choker will be fine.

Orecchini punto luce indossati
Worn stud earrings

Oval face: the choice of earrings is quite intuitive: they must not be too long and it is even better if they have a geometric shape, which contrasts with the regularity of your face. You don’t need to sweeten it, but to add a breaking element. For necklaces you have ample freedom of choice, even if a long neck will be balanced with a choker.

Orecchini della collezione Eyes, indossati di Cora Sheibani
Earrings from the Eyes collection, worn by Cora Sheibani

The jewels of time by Luca Cantarelli

Without gender and without age, but with many ideas. Luca Cantarelli, a jewelery designer based in Milan, has created a collection made up of five jewels in silver, enamel and natural stones such as peridot, garnet, topaz, peridot, citrine. And, in contrast, the designer decided to combine the images of the jewels with a series of portraits dedicated to adult male beauty from 40 to 70 years old. With a surprising effect from a communication point of view. It is no coincidence that the collection is dedicated to the effects of time.

Anello in argento, smalto, citrino
Ring in silver, enamel, citrine

A collection includes pendants, earrings and chevalier rings. The most representative piece is the Fierce chevalier ring, with strong volumes that project the shape in height and are inspired by a podium, while the enamels design a central band that wraps the design dividing it into two identical, mirrored halves. On the lateral surfaces, the aligned and degradé stones recall the idea of an hourglass, measuring time.

Anello indossato
Ring worn

Luca Cantarelli was born and raised in Sardinia, but since 2012 he has lived and worked in Milan. At 18, during his university studies he discovered a passion for design and painting. After a degree in Legal Sciences, he studied fashion design and worked in fashion. With experience in clothing and accessory design, he chose to try his hand at jewellery, contributing to the restyling of a famous Milanese jewelery brand. In early 2020 he began designing his first collection in silver and natural stones.

Anello in argento, smalto, gemme naturali
Ring in silver, enamel, natural gems

Pendente in argento, smalto, gemme naturali
Orecchini in argento, smalto, gemme naturali Earrings in silver, enamel, natural gems

Luca Cantarelli. Photo by Michele Cantarelli
Luca Cantarelli. Photo by Michele Cantarelli

Glenn Spiro, fantasy of titanium

The creations in titanium (and not only) of the London brand G by Glenn Spiro

The London jeweler Glenn Spiro in 2016 opened the new atelier of G, his brand, in the former salon of fashion designer Sir Norman Hartnell, in the heart of Mayfair. It occupies the first floor of a Georgian-style building, designed in 1930 by architect Gerald Lacoste, with walls upholstered mirrors and chair signed by Marco Zanuso. They are in line with the stylistic choices of the designers choice, following the absolute British tradition.

Orecchini in titanio color turchese e diamanti Wavy Heart
Turquoise titanium Wavy Heart diamond earrings

Which, as noted, it includes a good dose of originality. Born in east London into a family of modest means, Spiro left school at 15 to follow vocational training courses with which he learned the art of jewelry making. After a stint as a goldsmith in Hatton Garden, he opened a laboratory in Farringdon, east London, when he was 21 years old. All recognize him two qualities: eye for judging the exquisite stones and his gab. Both of these aspects are useful in the jeweler profession. Along the first years of his work he was mainly produce for other big brands. Then, he won his audience thanks to unusual jewelery creations (you can see some examples in these images). Pieces are often one-of-a-kind, in many cases created thanks to the ability to use titanium, also in the colored version, as lightweight and durable metal with which incur significant stones. The effect is stunning. On the other hand, in jewelry the unconventionality is the most traditional way of life.

Anello in oro rosa e diamanti
Ring in rose gold and diamonds

Anello Papillon in titanio, oro bianco, rubini e diamanti
Papillon ring in titanium, white gold, rubies and diamonds
Orecchini Foglie d'autunno con smeraldi e diamanti
Autumn leaves earrings with emeralds and diamonds
Orecchini conchiglia con diamanti e oro bianco
Shell earrings with diamonds and white gold
Orologio con diamanti e zaffiri: il quadrante è nascosto da petali che si aprono per mostrare le lancette
Watch with diamonds and sapphires: the dial is hidden by petals that open to reveal the hands
Anello con rubini e diamante
Ring with rubies and diamond
Orecchini lisca di pesce, con diamanti e rubini
Fishbone earrings, with diamonds and rubies

Sicily and Liberty with Franco Pavilion Jewels

Sicilian jewelry. But with an international spirit. The long history of Franco Padiglione Gioielli, which is based in Palermo, sums up the character of the Italian region, which has a history intertwined with different cultures: Roman, Arab, Norman, Spanish. A mix that is also reflected in the aesthetics of those who create. In the case of Franco Padiglione Gioielli, for example, the historical legacy becomes the Moor’s Heads, brooches that are part of popular culture and recall the period of Arab domination (from 827 to 1091). But not only. The Sicilian brand also reinterprets the Liberty style, including dragonflies, butterflies, small bees and flies in the form of earrings and brooches. And there is no shortage of coral jewelry, another specialty of Sicilian jewelry.

Collana con testa in ebano intagliata, oro, argento, rubini cabochon, granati. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Necklace with carved ebony head, gold, silver, cabochon rubies, garnets. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The Maison also has a long history, which is approaching the century. The business was started in 1925 by Giuseppe Padiglione and continued by his son Francesco. Although the debut of the artisan workshop took place in Naples. The laboratory in Palermo has been active, however, since 1958, where Franco Padiglione makes use of the goldsmith skills he has learned. Since the 1980s, the company has been run by the heir of the family tradition, Franco.

Pendente in. lapislazzuli intagliato, zaffiri, diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Pendant in. carved lapis lazuli, sapphires, diamonds.Copyright: gioiellis.com
Spilla in corallo intagliato con zaffiri e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Brooch in carved coral with sapphires and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
La spilla Testa di Moro
The Testa di Moro brooch
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, zaffiri, perle australiane e brillanti
Earrings in 18k gold, sapphires, Australian pearls and diamonds

Come vendere i vostri gioielli

Four tips before knocking at a jeweler’s door or trying to sell a jewel. It is not easy to conclude a good deal ♦

Is It A Good Time To Sell Jewelry? It depends. Wholesale diamond prices, for example, have dropped a lot compared to 2015. By contrast, the value of gold has returned to rise. But when you sell a jewel, the quality of the assembled stones comes into play, along with the design and the brand. A jewel of an established Maison takes the lead in evaluations, and for this reason many jewelers who easily accept necklaces, rings and bracelets that have the brand of famous jewelers. But if the stones used are of high quality, it is also possible for a jeweler to buy the jewel only to remove the precious stones to be fitted with a more modern design. But be careful: selling the grandma’s brilliant ring is not easy. At least: it is not easy to get a unique price. While gold has certain quotes, the diamonds have a number of aspects in the evaluation (How choose a Diamond)  that make it susceptible to different proposals regarding the price. Apart from this consideration, there are four aspects to consider.

Spilla con diamanti e perle
Brooch with diamonds and pearls

1. Think what you really have. Just because Grandma said his old diamond ring was precious (a gift from his beloved grandpa) does not mean that he really is. The sentimental value is one thing, the true is another. So, before running from the first jeweler, better to have a precise picture of its quality and genuineness. If it is a diamond of a certain size and weight, it is worth referring to a qualified expert who can give an impartial opinion of the characteristics and conditions of the stone. And also to highlight the positive attributes that could affect its value. But first get to know the cost of the exam: it must be worth it. Often a pawn shop offers a similar service.

Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds from around 1950

2. Get ready for a realistic price. Dreaming is beautiful, but we have to deal with reality. We said that the market is at a favorable time for the sale, but it depends very much on the type of stone mounted on the jewel. To get an idea, have a look at sales on eBay. Finally, before turning to a seller, think that you will buy only if you are convinced of a good deal, not for a favor.

Bracciale a forma di cigno bianco, con diamanti
White swan-shaped bracelet with diamonds

3. Consider selling options. Those who buy your jewel have two options: sell the piece to another industry or the public. Also consider taking the opportunity to contact a jewelery manufacturer: probably the price you can check will not be the best, but in return, the sale is very fast. But be careful to call on operators who have all legal permissions and a clear curriculum. Investigations on many gold shopping shops are showing that it is easy to come across dealers of dubious honesty. A brief survey on Google can be of help. By the way, there is also a site specializing in private online shopping (www.idonowidont.com). The mechanism offers a guarantee to seller and buyer (of course you pay a commission), but be careful: it is in English and there may be some customs problems.

Anello con diamante taglio smeraldo e oro bianco
Ring with emerald cut diamond and white gold

4. Are you emotionally ready to sell? The hardest thing is not to come up with a good price, but be sure you want to sell a jewel that is usually part of your story as well. It tends to add an emotional value to a diamond on the engagement ring, and the disappointment on real market value can be a shock.

Anello in oro giallo con diamanti
Yellow gold ring with diamonds

5. Consider the auctions. If you have a jewel of a certain value, an interesting way is to propose it in an auction. In addition to the giants Sotheby’s and Christie’s, each country has auction houses that periodically organize auction sales. If the jewelry has an interesting shape, a price could be higher than that of a simple sale in jewelry. Federico Graglia

Un'asta condotta da David Bennett (Sotheby's)
An auction conducted by David Bennett (Sotheby’s)

Lavinia Fuksas, design between rhombuses and triangles

Perhaps creativity cannot be transmitted genetically, but growing up between two famous architects can be useful for developing one’s aesthetic sense. And this is what Lavinia Fuksas, daughter of Doriana and Massimilano Fuksas, two internationally known Italian designers, can tell. Lavinia, however, followed her path. And she is now considered one of the emerging jewelery brands. Merit, if one can say so, also of the lockdown period caused by the covid, which has allowed a time for reflection and planning for the long-held idea of tackling the jewelery market.

Orecchini in oro 9 carati con malachite, onice e madreperla
9 carat gold earrings with malachite, onyx and mother of pearl

Furthermore, one of the characteristics of Lavinia Fuksas jewels, based in Rome, is that they are designed indifferently for men or women. Gender fluid is a trend and, on closer inspection, for jewelry designers to propose rings or earrings without distinction of gender is a great saving and an excellent opportunity.

Anello Jaipur in oro 9 caratis
Jaipur ring in 9 carat gold

The designer’s style is a road with two points of arrival and departure. On the one hand there is the architectural geometry, daughter of the cultural environment in which the designer grew up, on the other the effort to make the figures of triangles and rhombuses, which recur in the collections of Lavinia Fuksas, ductile and not too rigid. She also reveals it with the choice of one of her collections, Jaipur, inspired by the atmosphere of the Indian capital city of gold and gem processing.

Orecchini in argento
Silver earrings

Orecchini in oro bianco 9 carati con cinque smeraldi
Jaipur earrings in 9k white gold with five emeralds

Anello Gadir in oro 18 carati
Gadir ring in 18k gold
Orecchini Jaipur in oro 9 carati e cinque smeraldi
Jaipur earrings in 9 carat gold and five emeralds
Orecchini Jaipur in oro 9 carati
Jaipur earrings in 9 carat gold
Choker in oro e diamanti
Choker in gold and diamonds

Jewelry with recipe from Amabile Jewels

Amabile Jewels presents Lovliness, a collection dedicated to Valentine’s Day. The collection is made up of ten earrings, three rings, two bracelets and two necklaces, all in the gold and silver version, plus two book-shaped packages (in silver or silver plated): when opened, the box contains a Cupid earring, a Love earring, two fuchsia charms, a Lover necklace and a Lover ring. Not only that: in addition to the jewels inside there is a special exclusive recipe created by Carlotta Perego, YouTuber of the Cucina Botanica channel. The idea is to suggest a sweet and fun activity with your partner to celebrate the heart (but also the throat). The price is 259 or 279 euros, depending on the variant.

L'interno del libro-box con ricetta e gioielli
The inside of the book-box with recipe and jewels

Among the earrings, Lovli is tinged with pink with a heart replacing the classic cubic zirconia light point. The Hoop sobio earrings in the Lover version with three cubic zirconia in three different colours, fuchsia, pink and silver. The heart shape and pink color appear in all the jewels, necklaces, chokers, rings and bracelets. Amabile is a jewelry brand founded in 2020 by Martina Strazzer, just twenty years old. The jewels are made of 925 silver and gold plated.
Collana girocollo in argento e cubic zirconia
Choker necklace in silver and cubic zirconia

Orecchino in argento e cubic zirconia
Silver and cubic zirconia earring
La copertina del Volume
The cover of the volume

Burato with simplicity and nature

Burato is a brand founded by designer Marta Burato in 2015. The designer has a long experience in the jewelry sector behind her: her parents opened a jewelery and watch boutique in Jesolo in 1969. Passionate about art, Marta Burato chose the path of simple design and essential, which allows us to offer jewelery at affordable prices: 18-karat gold pieces with simple and elegant lines that can be worn every day. As for Amuleto, one of the latest collections. The brand underlines the importance of respecting the environment: Burato jewels are made with materials coming only from controlled supply chains.

Amuleto Satin Pink Bracelet
Amuleto Satin Pink Bracelet

But not only that: the attention to nature is also demonstrated by initiatives such as the weeping willows donated to the city of Jesolo (Venice), and the project in support of Arte Sella, after the effect of Storm Vaia, which at the end of October 2018 it destroyed more than 20,000 hectares of forest in Trentino and Belluno. Arte Sella is an exhibition of contemporary art in nature, which takes place in Val di Sella, in the municipality of Borgo Valsugana (Trento). Burato’s project is called #iloveartesella and consists of a 23-carat gold leaf that you glue on your favorite tree.
Bracelet Amuleto Pink Gold Chain
Bracelet Amuleto Pink Gold Chain

Hoop Linea Full Diamonds Pink Earring
Hoop Linea Full Diamonds Pink Earring
Element Amuleto Full Diamonds White
Element Amuleto Full Diamonds White Gold
Cufflinks Amuleto Yellow Gold
Cufflinks Amuleto Yellow Gold

Romantic Brigitte Adolph

Romantic jewelry made in Germany. On the other hand, Germany was the home of romanticism. The German designer and goldsmith Brigitte Adolph, who works in her atelier in Weingarten, near Karlsruhe, has chosen a specific path for her jewels made of silver, gold-plated silver or just 18-karat gold. The designer’s jewels are designed as if they were made of lace instead of metal. Light, embroidered, elaborate: the jewels use a filigree inspired by the manufacturing of the fabric. An idea that Brigitte Adolph embraced during her honeymoon in Venice, where she discovered a small artisan shop with handmade lace, which she then used as the basis for the Venezia necklace.

Braccialetto in argento Turandot
Turandot silver bracelet

Since then she has been inspired by the lace works of different cultures, with the aim of recovering ancient traditions translated into jewellery. The designer comes from a family of jewelers and worked for the Royal Swedish Crown Jeweller. She studied jewelry design at the famous University of Pforzheim, Germany. Brigitte Adolph’s lace jewelry is sold by over one hundred jewelers, galleries and shops in Europe, North America and Asia.

Anello Emilia in oro giallo
Emilia ring in yellow gold
Orecchini Medea II in argento
Medea II earrings in silver
Orecchini Marrakesh Square in argento placcato oro
Marrakesh Square earrings in gold-plated silver
Brigitte Adolph
Brigitte Adolph

Dinner + ring with Voodoo Jewels

Voodoo is an ancient religion practiced by some African populations of Benin, Togo, Ghana and Nigeria, which has been exported to several countries in the Americas. But, in a certain sense, it also took root a stone’s throw from the Vatican. Voodoo Jewels is a jewelry brand born in Rome in 2002 on the initiative of Livia Lazzari. The name comes from the idea that objects of the voodoo religion are considered magical. And even jewels can have an influence on human beings, as long as you believe it. Furthermore, the Voodoo Jewels creations, just like the talismans, are all made to order, at zero kilometres.

Livia Lazzari
Livia Lazzari

For Valentine’s Day 2024, however, the jewelry brand takes a further imaginative leap with a gastronomic alliance with brothers Christian and Manuel Costardi, Piedmontese chefs with restaurants in Turin and Vercelli. The initiative is truly original: a special package costing 450 euros which includes the Red Love Letter solitaire ring by Voodoo Jewels and a dinner for two with a tasting menu, plus wine pairing at the Scat_to restaurant in Piazza San Carlo, Turin.
Ristorante Scat_to, Torino
Scat_to restaurant, Torino

The ring and dinner combination is scheduled from Saturday 10 February until Saturday 17 February. On the Voodoo Jewels website and in the Scat_to restaurant you can purchase the special paper Gift Card to give as a gift. «Like all the Love Letters we have written to date, this gift is a thought of love that knows no limits and which we hope will reach as far as possible», comments Livia Lazzari. «Why did I choose Scat_to? because beauty is transversal and the research that is done by the Costardi brothers here is the same that I do to create my jewels and, last but not least, good food is an expression of love”. On the occasion of the collaboration, a Voodoo Jewels pop-up will be set up inside the Scat_to restaurant, part of the Gallerie d’Italia complex: a designed corner where for the entire weekend of 10-11 February it will also be possible to purchase other jewels of the brand.
Livia Lazzari con l'attrice Martina Pinto
Livia Lazzari and actress Martina Pinto

Livia Lazzari, founder Voodoo Jewels
Livia Lazzari, founder Voodoo Jewels

Magic Wire with gold’s memory

Founded in 1960, Rancangelo is one of the largest jewelery companies based in Vicenza. Founded by Angelo Antonio Rancan, it has developed and is today led by his son, Pietro Rancan. The company produces high-end jewellery, under the Rancangelo brand, but has also recently launched the Magic Wire brand, born shortly before the pandemic. As in the rest of the company’s production, the basic element for Magic Wire is gold. But, as the name of the brand suggests, it plays on the shape of the soft and flexible wire.

Collezione Quadrati
Quadrati collection

To ensure flexibility and, at the same time, resistance, the gold wires have a titanium core. The combination of the two metals adds flexibility without the risk of losing the original shape of the jewel. The system is patented under the name Shape Memory. They are apparently simple and linear jewels, but which hide refined technology. As demonstrated by the Square and Onde collections, where the three-dimensionality of the jewel is combined with the movement of the soft gold thread.

Square rings are available with multiple strands, alongside bracelets, earrings and necklaces. The cleanliness of the shape is the real protagonist. The jewels of the Onde collection are a succession of curved lines of different widths. They move together with the different body postures or gestures of the wearer. In addition to gold, some models feature brilliant-cut diamonds.

Pianeti collection
Pianeti collection

Other Magic Wire lines are Angel, the brand’s evergreen, and Pianeti, of a minimalist nature. The iconic spiral ring is part of it, a best seller of the brand, thanks to its particularity and versatility which also make it perfect combined with other pieces. And the Perfect line adds diamonds to the essentiality of Angel.
Onde collection
Onde collection

Chantecler celebrates its iconic bell

The bell of Chantecler still rings and celebrates its first 80 years. Many, yet it is an icon full of life. The bell is one of the symbols of the Maison of Capri. But not only that: it is also the symbol of an entire era, that of the post-war period, of the Dolce Vita, of the economic boom, of high-end tourism, of those who were the first true influencers such as Jackie Kennedy-Onassis, and of nonconformism of Pietro Capuano, founder of Chantecler.

Campanella Capriness
Campanella Capriness

The island located in the Mediterranean Sea, right in front of Naples, was the cradle of the jewelry brand that became famous thanks to the inventiveness of its founder Chantecler, who in 1944, in the midst of the Second World War, symbolically offered a bell to the American president Franklin Delano Roosevelt, as a wish for peace. A symbol of peace that would not hurt even today, in such difficult times. The history of the bell and of Chantecler was retraced in an exhibition on the occasion of Vicenzaoro January 2024: documents, such as the letters of Edda Ciano to Pietro Capuano, nicknamed Chantecler for his over the top character by the Duce’s daughter, photographs of era, the reproduction of the bell at the origin of everything, memories and, of course, jewels.

The exhibition was an opportunity to retrace the history of our company, but also of a piece of Italian history. Chantecler began its journey starting from a bell, which is still a symbolic jewel. And which today is renewed with new models.
Gabriele Aprea, president of Chantecler

Gabriele Aprea. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gabriele Aprea. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The bell, together with the rooster, has become a symbol of Chantecler. The small bells transformed into jewels are also an aesthetic and cheerful element. This is why in 2024 Chantecler celebrates the anniversary with the Year of the Bell and new jewels. Like Campanella Jaqueline Kennedy-Onassis, a great friend and fan of the Maison in the Sixties and Seventies. The bell is entirely covered in a mosaic of marquise diamonds, which slope down onto the ball. In stark contrast, the edge and the bridge are punctuated by diamond baguettes, with a brilliant geometric motif that aims to interpret the charm of the US First Lady in a modern key. The Campanella Capriness, dedicated to the island, however, enhances the marine identity with a striped motif in enamel and precious stones.
At Vicenzaoro Chantecler also chose to present new products with the Enchanté and Joyful lines, which we will talk about in other articles.

La riproduzione della storica campana donata da Pietro Capuano al presidente americano Franklin Delano Roosevelt
The reproduction of the historic bell donated by Pietro Capuano to the American president Franklin Delano Roosevelt

La consegna della campana
The delivery of the bell

Una storica immagine di Jackie Kennedy con Piero Capuano
A historic image of Jackie Kennedy with Pietro Capuano in Capri

Jewelry without mysteries for Mist Jewels

In Istanbul the Simoro brand is famous: it is that of a family-run company that produces jewelery and semi-finished products, achieving large production volumes and wholesale exports abroad. Simoro, which uses Italian technology for its hollow chains and has two stores in the Turkish city’s Grand Bazaar, was founded in 1976 by the Gizem-Canalp Karışık brothers. More recently it has entered the online retail sector in the domestic market with the Mist Jewels brand, which has achieved good success.

Bracciali di Mist Jewels
Bracelets by Mist Jewels

The jewels of Mist Jewels are intended, in particular, for a young audience, who loves to wear necklaces or bracelets made up of thin chains, with many pendants. Jewelery to wear every day, suitable for any circumstance with the idea of telling a story, evoking emotions and empathizing with the wearer. Mist offers fashion jewelery that uses 14-carat gold, diamonds and small stones to keep prices down. A gold necklace with pendant and diamonds, for example, costs around a thousand euros.
Le collezioni comprendono anche gioielli per il corpo
Le collezioni comprendono anche gioielli per il corpo

Collane e orecchini
Necklaces and earrings
Bracciali e collane indossati
Bracelets and necklaces worn
Collane di Mist Jewels indossate
Necklaces by Mist Jewels
Collane con ciondoli
Necklaces with pendants

The 2024 forecast for jewelry

The Italian jewelery industry shines like what it produces. The data from the fifth edition of the economic survey promoted by the Club degli Orafi Italia – Intesa Sanpaolo, presented at VicenzaOro, seem at first sight as sweet as honey for businesses: in 2023 it rose to 44% (from 39% in June) percentage of those who declare a growing turnover. The survey was carried out between November and December 2023 on approximately 30 companies in the sector.

Vicenzaoro logo
Vicenzaoro logo

However, 2024 opens with greater uncertainty, due to the economic slowdown in many countries and geopolitical tensions. And considering the Istat production index, we note a progressive worsening during 2023, with an average of the first ten months a slight decline (-1.4%), however more contained than the data for the fashion system (-6 ,6%).

The data from this fifth edition of the economic survey confirm that the gold sector, despite the uncertainties in the global economic panorama, demonstrates a unique response capacity on the Italian production panorama. In anticipation of the slowdown in the international economy, especially in the first part of the year, it will be crucial for companies in the sector to focus on strengthening their competitiveness through targeted investments. This strategic approach will allow us to capture the recovery in demand and maintain a robust presence on international markets.
Giorgio Villa, President of the Italian Goldsmiths’ Club

Giorgio Villa
Giorgio Villa

The Istat turnover index in the period January-October 2023 shows a growth of 8.5% for the goldsmith sector, better than the fashion system (+3.3%) and the total manufacturing sector (-0.1%). A result achieved above all thanks to exports despite a context of stable global demand (+0.3% in quantity), Italian exports of precious jewelery stood at 6.8 billion euros, growing in value of +12.3% and with quantities holding steady (+0.9%). In essence: the number of jewels or semi-finished products sold increases slightly, but at a higher price. It must be added, however, that the increase is also a reflection of inflation.

The reference scenario is conditioned by the overall slowdown that is also occurring in this sector which, however, has shown in recent years a good ability to respond to crises, also the result of the process of competitive strengthening. Even in a more uncertain context, it will be crucial to support the propensity to invest to strengthen the level of innovation and efficiency of the processes; these factors will have to coexist and maximize the strengths of the sector such as craftsmanship and production flexibility.
Stefania Trenti, Industry and Local Economies Research, Intesa Sanpaolo

Giorgio Villa, presidente del Club degli Orafi Italia e Stefania Trenti, Responsabile Industry Research, Direzione Studi e Ricerche Intesa Sanpaolo sul palco di Vicenzaoro. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Giorgio Villa, president of the Italian Goldsmiths’ Club and Stefania Trenti, Head of Industry Research, Intesa Sanpaolo Studies and Research Department on the Vicenzaoro stage. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The markets that fared best are (surprisingly) the Chinese and Turkish ones, two economies that are not experiencing their best form. In detail: the United States (+6.3%) and France (+14.2%) are growing, but above all Switzerland (+43.6%), logistics hub of luxury fashion houses, Turkey (+59.5%) and China (+16.7%). Other numbers: in 2022, Italy confirmed itself as the first European exporter in the sector, with 8.2 billion euros, and the fifth globally, with a share of 10.1%, an improvement compared to 8 .3% of 2019.
VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com
VicenzaOro January. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For 2024, operators’ expectations show greater prudence, especially for smaller companies, while for medium-large companies there remain 50% of respondents who expect a growing turnover. Confirming the worsening in demand expectations, the Istat production index also highlights a progressive slowdown during 2023 which leads the data for the first 10 months to record a slight decline (-1.4%), however smaller than the fashion system (-6.6%).

Lavorazione di gioielleria nell'atelier Crieri
Atelier Crieri

The new history of Maison Copin

The history of Maison Copin continues. The brand is part of the history of French jewelry: Copin is a brand born in 1870 from the union of a family of goldsmiths with one of jewelers. And in 1895, newly married Charles and Louise Tirbour took over the business of a distant relative, a goldsmith’s shop created in 1810. Their daughter Suzanne in turn married Roger Copin, a jeweler with workshops in the same building. The business continued for six generations with ups and downs. Until a stop and a restart in 2020 thanks to the intervention of the financial consultant Alexandre Benamu, now general director of the Maison.

Anello con 20 zaffiri rosa su oro riciclato
Ring with 20 pink sapphires on recycled gold

The purchase of the brand also meant regaining possession of the company archives: 1,500 gouaches, a thousand molds, a hundred rings, prints and vintage photos. A good baggage to start again, with the experience of the creative director Sajina Dutertre. But, in addition to offering its new collections, significantly called 00 and 01, Copin also offers a tailor-made jewelery service. In the atelier on rue Saint-Honoré, in Paris, Copin offers the possibility of obtaining a personalized jewel, supporting the customer in the design and creation process. The price of a tailor-made creation starts from 2,500 euros. With two possibilities, adapt a ring from the Copin collection to the customer’s tastes, or use the stones of an old jewel for the new creation.
Anello in oro rosa e 72 diamanti
Ring in rose gold and 72 diamonds

The jewels offered by Copin take inspiration from the tradition behind the brand, such as the 82 ring, a scalloped wedding ring, proposed in numerous variations. Or the retro-style Daisy ring. The jewels are of quality, but with the aim of keeping prices within a high limit, but not very high.
Anello Boreale in oro giallo e diamante
Boreale ring in yellow gold and diamond

Orecchini in oro giallo e diamanti
Yellow gold and diamond earrings
Orecchini New 82 in oro giallo
New 82 earrings in yellow gold

Emi & Eve, give peace a chance

New jewels by Emi & Eve, the brand of an Italian designer born in London to help the Cambodian population ♦ ︎

Emi & Eve jewels are born from the creativity of a young designer, Cassandra Postema, graduated in Fashion and Textile Design at Central St. Martin College in London. A trip to Cambodia changed her life and gave her the right inspiration to start a project characterized by excellence in design, innovation and social responsibility. It is no coincidence that the name of the jewelry brand adds an explicit payoff: Bombs to Beauty. How to transform weapons into something beautiful, in short.
Read also: Emi & Eve jewels for peace

Anello Unity in ottone placcato oro 23,5 carati con corniola e topazio bianco
Unity ring in 23.5 carat gold plated brass with carnelian and white topaz

Cassandra has therefore decided to create an opportunity through jewels made in Cambodia and inspired by nature and oriental philosophies. The artisans who work for Emi & Eve use the metal recovered by Cmac agents (Cambodia Mine Action Center) and by local fishermen.
The basic material used in all the collections is brass, derived from the recycling of war remnants extracted from Cambodian soil. The brass is then gold plated to keep the color unchanged over time, in some cases with the addition of natural and untreated stones.

Anello Unity in ottone placcato oro 23,5 carati con onice e topazio bianco
Unity ring in 23.5 carat gold plated brass with onyx and white topaz
Anello in ottone placcato oro 23,5 carati
23.5 carat gold plated brass ring
Orecchini Unity in ottone placcato oro e topazio bianco
Unity earrings in gold-plated brass and white topaz
Orecchini Unity in ottone placcato oro e ametista
Unity earrings in gold-plated brass and amethyst
Orecchini River in ottone placcato oro e onice
River earrings in gold-plated brass and onyx
Bracciale in ottone e corniola
Brass and carnelian bracelet
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