Cartier

All About Platinum

Want to buy a platinum ring? Here is what you need to know about platinum, one of the most precious metals used in jewelry, particularly for rings. And so, it’s better gold or platinum? ♦

“Do you prefer gold or platinum?”. It is one of the classic questions that usually hear who goes by the jeweler to buy a ring, in particular for the engagement or marriage. Who is not an expert you end up choosing the least expensive metal: gold. But to know the characteristics of what is the most rare and noble material, platinum, could lead to making a different choice.

Bracciale stile art déco in platino, diamanti e onice
Neil Lane, art deco style bracelet in platinum, diamonds and onyx

Features. The name platinum is derived from the Spanish word platina, which is literally translated into “little silver.” It’s very rare. And so it is also much more expensive than gold. It comes together with nickel and copper minerals, mainly in South Africa, where it is concentrated 80% of world production. Platinum is one of less alterable metals: has outstanding corrosion resistance, even at high temperatures, and is therefore considered a noble metal.

La corona realizzata per la regina Elisabetta , moglie del re Giorgio VI, la Regina madre: ha la cornice in platino
The crown made for Queen Elizabeth, wife of King George VI, the Queen Mother: it has a platinum frame

Platinum and jewelry. Platinum is used in jewelry for its lasting and elegance. It is soft, pliable and easy to work, but it is also strong and durable. For this, for example, it is very appreciated in jewelry to containing precious stones: the jaws platinum are more secure than those in gold. Also, the color goes well with the purity of diamonds. It’s often used in alloys with other metals, such as iridium, osmium, palladium, rhodium and ruthenium, but in this case should be reported. If you buy a platinum jewel beware that has the symbol ‘Plat’: means that platinum is a purity of 95%.

History. Platinum was already known by the ancient Egyptians: historians have established that a priestess commissioned a craftsman platinum hieroglyphics on her sarcophagus. And today, after 2500, the designs are perfectly intact. Even King Louis XVI (end of 1700) loved the platinum jewelry. And some of the most famous diamonds in the world were placed in a platinum structure, such as the Hope diamond.

Chaumet, tiara in platino e diamanti
Chaumet, tiara in platinum and diamonds

How do you clean platinum? Although platinum is a particularly resistant metal, it is necessary to provide for cleaning from time to time. The best method is always to dip the ring or bracelet in a bowl with hot, but not boiling water, in which you have melted a few drops of neutral liquid soap. After leaving the jewel to soak for ten minutes, rinse, and then gently rub (especially if there are also stones) with a toothbrush with soft bristles. Then, dry with a microfibre cloth: cotton or wool can leave residues attached to the jewel if it is not perfectly smooth. Another method is to soak the platinum jewel in a container of water with the addition of sodium bicarbonate. After a few minutes, pour half a glass of vinegar: for the reaction, water will start producing bubbles. After 10 minutes rinse the jewel in cold water.

Anello solitario in platino e diamante con il Tiffany Setting
Platinum and diamond solitaire ring with the Tiffany Setting
Cartier, solitario in Platino e diamanti
Cartier, solitaire in platinum and diamonds
Luois Vuitton: fede in platino della collezione Empreinte, ispirata ai chiodi dei bauli con solitario incastonato. Prezzo 1890 euro
Louis Vuitton: platinum wedding ring from the Empreinte collection, inspired by trunk nails with a solitaire set
Bracciale di platino con diamanti e rubini venduto per 149mila dollari
Bracelet with diamonds and rubies
Anello in platino con diamanti del 1950 circa. Base d'asta: 1500 euro
Platinum ring with diamonds circa 1950

All about amethyst

The stone of February is the amethyst. But this gem also it like in the other 11 months of the year. Discover the qualities of the amethyst in this article ♦
Has always been considered a sort of talisman: Sumerians and Babylonians and Egyptians wore amulets made with amethyst for protection, and for the ancient Chinese was a material with which to store spices, healing balms and ointments. In nature this variety of quartz is found inside of stony masses and quarries, geodes, crystals containing groupings. One of the most famous is the one discovered in Brazil in the area of ​​Rio Grande Sol, 30 meters long and 15 meters completely covered with amethyst crystals width, so large that it must be dug in the ground. Amethyst is also the stone of February.

Anello della collezione Tiple-Trêfle. Oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, ametista, zaffiri
Isabelle Langlois, anello della collezione Tiple-Trêfle. Oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti, ametista, zaffiri

The color range. It is truly remarkable, ranging from light pink to deep purple with many intermediate shades, as the example lavender or lilac, christened Rose de France, or the darkest shade almost bluish shades from red or pink typical of the stones from Russia , whose mines are now exhausted. Then there are amethysts Uruguay and Arizona with a deep blue-purple, the Zambian light purple. All owe their color to iron impurities. Some are two-tone, gold and purple, are called ametryne, and consist of quartz citrine and amethyst. Others, are green and are baptized prisiolite.

Orecchini con ametista e diamanti
Orecchini con ametista e diamanti by Michele della Valle

Origin. There are many mineral sources, practically in almost all over the world, but the most important producers are Brazil, Uruguay, Madagascar and Zambia. A good quality stones are also found in the United States, South Korea and Austria.

Anello Sissi con agata intagliata e ametista
Anello Sissi di Sanalitro con agata intagliata e ametista

Rating. Until the 18th century it was considered a precious gem as much as a diamond, a sapphire, an emerald or a ruby. The most valuable specimens came from the Ural Mountains of Russia, but the discovery of large deposits in Brazil and other countries has largely decreased the price. Currently the main evaluation criterion is the color: the more intense and more uniform the quality. Attention to the nuances, must be neither brown nor gray.

Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, ametista e agata di Voga Gioielli
Anello in oro bianco, diamanti, ametista e agata di Voga Gioielli

Purity. It is a gem of type II, so it can have slight inclusions visible to the naked eye but if its dark color hides, it becomes more difficult in the pink variety, lavender or green. It is often found in large, it can be up to 20 carats, and is almost always natural because the heat treatment and thus the cost of such a convenient stone does not make sense.

Anello in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti
Anello in oro rosa, rubellite e diamanti

Collana vinage in oro e argento con ametista
Collana vinage in oro e argento con ametista

Anello con ametista di 81 carati, 2014
Anello con ametista di 81 carati, 2014

Anello Aurora in oro, ametista, rodolite di Shaun Leane
Anello Aurora in oro, ametista, rodolite di Shaun Leane

Adjustable necklaces

Adjustable necklaces, necklaces with a knot, necklaces with the string: this is why to choose this type of jewel ♦

Almost always long and thin, sometimes very precious, necklaces of this type are back in fashion. But, in reality, has it ever been forgotten? In any case, it is good news for those who love sexy jewelry, as its shape highlights the contour of the body with a drape delicately resting on the décolleté. Adjustable necklaces have an obvious advantage: they adapt to the surface and size of the wearer’s body. Not only. An adjustable necklace also changes shape and can be worn in different ways depending on the clothing and circumstance.

Also read: how to choose the necklace

Collana Aria indossata
Nanis, Aria adjustable necklace worn

Of course, it depends on how it is worn because originally they were nothing more than a long thread of gold or pearls, more or less thick and broad, without any closure, to be turned several times around the neck, or to be knotted simply or with an adjustable clip to be placed at a strategic point. Like the vintage Cartier jewel, dated 1965, made with flat round links and a drop-shaped clasp, or the long double string of Chanel eighties beads.

Collana con pendente cone inserto in pelle
Necklace with pendant with leather insert by 12PM

You need to be careful when choosing the adjustable necklace. At the time of purchase it is best to check whether the mechanism that allows you to vary the length of the necklace is really efficient and, above all, does not appear to be too delicate: it would be disappointing to have to take the necklace to the jeweler to have the locking system repaired.
Collana indossata Magnetica System
Extendable Magnetica System necklace worn by Breil

Another important aspect is to use the adjustable necklace appropriately. A jewel of this type is interesting precisely because it adapts to the body and dress, but before choosing the length of the necklace, do several tests in front of the mirror, to establish what the right size really is: after all, you have chosen a jewel of this type precisely because of this.

Collana in diamanti e smeraldi, indossata a Baselworld
Jacob & Co diamond and emerald necklace, worn

The models of the past perfectly coexist next to the new millennium versions with revisited iconic logos and motifs, while one of the most luxurious places belongs to Bulgari with its famous snake in diamonds, turquoise emeralds, presented at the 2012 Biennale of Antiquarians. , shows how this type of necklace has never completely disappeared, but certainly now, especially overseas, it is a must have. Here is a selection of the most interesting pieces.

Collana in oro bianco e giallo con diamanti e smeraldi
Antonini, white and yellow gold necklace with diamonds and emeralds
Collana della collezione Zyp
Tirisi, necklace from the Zyp collection
Cartier, collier a forma di coccodrillo in oro bianco, diamanti e smeraldi
Cartier, crocodile-shaped necklace in white gold, diamonds and emeralds
Collana Marble Marquetry con diamanti e zaffiri
Harry Winston, Marble Marquetry necklace with diamonds and sapphires
Salvini, collana regolabile della collezione Daphne
Salvini, adjustable necklace from the Daphne collection
Autore, Best in Pearls con una collana di perle dei Mari del Sud
Autore,Best in Pearls with a necklace of South Sea pearls
Pendente con smeraldo colombiano del peso di circa 16 ct montato su collana in oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti taglio brillante del peso totale di circa 6,10 carati. Lunghezza collana 44 cm (chiusura regolabile)
Pendant with Colombian emerald weighing approximately 16 ct mounted on an 18k white gold necklace with brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 6.10 carats in total. Necklace length 44 cm (adjustable closure)

The beautiful but strange jewels

The most surprising jewels: from the diamond glove to the pavé handcuffs ♦

Strange jewels. There are not only the classic pearl necklaces, or the solitaire ring: designers and jewelers occasionally indulge in incredible fantasies. For example, what would you say about a diamond-encrusted glove? There is, and it was designed by Jacob & co. Or you might like some pink earphones with Swarovski crystals. In this case, an Indian brand called iWave took care of it. Or, again, the thong sandals with crystal gem proposed a few years ago by Tamara Comolli.

Flip flop con gemma intagliata, by Tamara Comolli
Flip-flop sandals with crystal gem by Tamara Comolli

Then there is the shoe chapter: stylists have indulged in creating shoes that look like jewels or jewels that look like shoes, you name it. An example: Casadei designer shoes, with Swarovski crystals. Or those by Ruthie Davis that were liked, they say, by Beyoncé, Penelope Cruz, Jennifer Lopez, and Lady Gaga. Perhaps the most surprising jewel, however, is represented by the pair of diamond-studded handcuffs signed a few years ago by the Swiss jeweler de Grisogono, which however no longer exists.
Bulgari, collier ispirato alla marijuana in oro bianco, diamanti, smeraldi
Bulgari, marijuana-inspired necklace in white gold, diamonds, emeralds

If we exclude that they are used by policemen with a mania for luxury, the suspicion arises that they are intended for fans of 50 Shades of Grey. Less unusual as an object, but equally precious is the perfume spray adorned with a gecko composed of small Colombian emeralds, which climbs on branches designed with diamonds. Some, however, will raise an eyebrow at the choker, a leather and gold dog collar style, with a bone-shaped pendant: it is designed by Chopard and is intended for high-class pets.
Chopard, collare per cani in oro e cuoio
Chopard, gold and leather dog collar

A little out of the ordinary, it must be admitted, was also the Grace Kelly pen by Montblanc, studded with diamonds and pink sapphires: who knows what you can write with such an object. The skirt by Titan Industries seems more traditional, but it isn’t, with designs made of cubic zirconia and Swarovski crystals: be careful when sitting down, though. Technology couldn’t be missing: an iPad cover colored with crystals to feel in step with technology.

Anello hamburger in oro rosa, diamanti champagne, zaffiri, tsavorite, rubini
Hamburger ring in rose gold, champagne diamonds, sapphires, tsavorites, rubies by Nadine Ghosn
Guanto con 17 carati di diamanti by Jacob & co
Glove with 17 carats of diamonds by Jacob & co
Auricolari con cristalli di Swarovski
Earphones with Swarovski crystals
Manette con diamanti bianchi e neri proposta dalla maison di Ginevra De Grisogono (che ora non c'è più)
Handcuffs with black and white diamonds proposed by the Ginevra maison De Grisogono (which now no longer exists)
La penna Montblanc Grace Kelly con gemma
The Montblanc Grace Kelly pen with gem

Barbie’s jewels

Do you like pink? Do you want to wear pink jewelry? Are you looking for a pink necklace? Or a bracelet? Or … Here are many ideas ♦

There are many reasons to wear pink jewelry, Barbie’s favorite color. The first is that it is the light version of marsala, announced color of the year, according to Pantone. In addition, it is definitely more suited to this season; the second reason is that its tone, even the one tinged with gray tinge, embellishes any type of skin. And This alone would be enough to convince anyone. But there is another side to act as an incentive and comes from English: think pink!It means thinking positive. And indeed a beautiful bright pink is a burst of energy, a stimulus to good mood. So, although many of the color names have lost their multiplicity of meanings, even in some languages in common phrases characterize specific moods. So, ring, earrings or bracelet have also colored stones, faceted or cabochon, translucent or opaque. Provided that they are pink.

Anello in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri rosa
Nigaam, anello in oro bianco con diamanti e zaffiri rosa

And more, pink is a positive color. It takes its name from the fragrant flower of the same name. But perhaps you don’t know that it was born quite recently: the name rose was used for the first time to indicate a shade of color only at the end of the 17th century. In the West (especially Europe and the United States), pink is the color associated with concepts of charm, kindness, sensitivity, tenderness, sweetness, childhood, femininity and romance. If the hue is very light, it is associated with chastity and innocence. On the contrary, a bright pink suggests eroticism and seduction.

Petit Joli, anello in oro rosa, calcedonio e diamanti
Petit Joli, anello in oro rosa, calcedonio rosa e diamanti by Pasquale Bruni

The history of pink
One could write a history of the color pink. But, undoubtedly, the maximum popularity reached it in the mid-eighteenth century, when pastel colors became very fashionable in all the courts of Europe. The pink color in particular was highly appreciated by Madame de Pompadour (1721-1764), lover of King Louis XV of France, who often wore clothes that combined blue and pink. Not only that: she had a particular shade of pink created especially for her by the Sevres porcelain factory, apparently with small additions of blue, black and yellow.

Madame de Pompadour
Madame de Pompadour

Pink stones
But let’s talk about jewelry: in addition to pink gold, you have a wide choice of stones that have shades of rose. The most precious, and most expensive, is undoubtedly the diamond. Diamonds with pink shades are buyed for millions of dollars during the auctions. But luckily there are many other stones that also have this color tone in their repertoire: quartz, sapphire, mystic topaz, rhodolite garnet, morganite, kunzite, Malaya garnet, tourmaline, spinel, opal, zircon, pink pearl, moonstone , coral, smithsonite, pezzottaite, rhodochrosite and rhodonite. You only have the problem of choosing one.

Matilde de Bounvilles

Tiffany, anello Sugar Stacks di Paloma Picasso in oro rosa 18 carati con pavé di zaffiri rosa.
Tiffany, anello Sugar Stacks di Paloma Picasso in oro rosa 18 carati con pavé di zaffiri rosa.
Tamara Comolli, braccialetto Mikado Romance in oro rosa con quarzi, e morganite rosa.
Tamara Comolli, braccialetto Mikado Romance in oro rosa con quarzi, e morganite rosa.
Vhernier, orecchini Eclisse in oro bianco con rhodonite, cristallo di rocca, madreperla e diamanti
Vhernier, orecchini Eclisse in oro bianco con rhodonite, cristallo di rocca, madreperla e diamanti
Collezione Millebolle, anello in oro rosa, diamanti grigi, rodolite. Anello oro rosa, diamanti grigi, quarzo rosa
Minù, collezione Millebolle, anello in oro rosa, diamanti grigi, rodolite.
Anello oro rosa, diamanti grigi, quarzo rosa
Anello con diamante rosa di 8,42 carati, fancy rosa intenso, taglio brillante, ma «modificato rettangolare», chiarezza VVS1. AI lati due diamanti baguette
Anello con diamante rosa di 8,42 carati, fancy rosa intenso, taglio brillante, ma «modificato rettangolare», chiarezza VVS1. AI lati due diamanti baguette
Alessio Boschi, collezione Naturalia anello Peony con morganite centrale
Alessio Boschi, collezione Naturalia anello Peony con morganite centrale
Van Cleef & Arpels, orecchini Papillons in oro rosa con zaffiri rosa e diamanti
Van Cleef & Arpels, orecchini Papillons in oro rosa con zaffiri rosa e diamanti
Etho Maria, bracciale La Serpentine in oro rosa con zaffiri rosa e diamanti brown
Etho Maria, bracciale La Serpentine in oro rosa con zaffiri rosa e diamanti brown
Mary Ching, Wing, in oro rosa e zaffiri
Mary Ching, Wing, in oro rosa e zaffiri
Anello Thalessa, in oro rosa 18 carati, tormalina, zaffiri, tormalina bicolore
Daniela Villegas, anello Thalessa, in oro rosa 18 carati, tormalina, zaffiri, tormalina bicolore
Brumani, Baobab collection Rosé, anello con diamanti, quarzo e tormaline brasiliane rosa
Brumani, Baobab collection Rosé, anello con diamanti, quarzo e tormaline brasiliane rosa
Irene Neuwirth, orecchini a forma di rosa in opale inciso, rhodocrosite tagliata a goccia e diamanti.
Irene Neuwirth, orecchini a forma di rosa in opale inciso, rhodocrosite tagliata a goccia e diamanti.
Olive
Larkspur & Hawk, collana con topazi rosa sfaccettati
Yoko London, anello con perla barocca rosa e pavé di diamanti
Yoko London, anello con perla barocca rosa e pavé di diamanti
Chantecler, orecchini Capri in oro rosa con ametista, fosfosiderite, zaffiri rosa e diamanti
Chantecler, orecchini Capri in oro rosa con ametista, fosfosiderite, zaffiri rosa e diamanti
Marie-Hélène de Taillac, orecchini in oro giallo con due tipi di quarzi rosa da 45 carati complessivi e due spinelli rosa più scuro
Marie-Hélène de Taillac, orecchini in oro giallo con due tipi di quarzi rosa da 45 carati complessivi e due spinelli rosa più scuro
Sutra, anello in oro rosa con diamanti e spinelli rosa e viola
Sutra, anello in oro rosa con diamanti e spinelli rosa e viola
Brumani, Baobab collection Rosé, orecchini con diamanti, quarzo e tormaline brasiliane rosa
Brumani, Baobab collection Rosé, orecchini con diamanti, quarzo e tormaline brasiliane rosa

Jewels in the shape of a lily of the valley

Lily of the valley, herbaceous plant (Convallaria maialis) of the Convallariacee family. But above all, one of the fragrant flowers of May. And it is no coincidence that the delicate thrush has inspired many jewelers. Here, then, are some jewels that are inspired by lily of the valley: a flower that has unexpected aphrodisiac properties. Yet it is also a flower often associated with marriage ceremonies, because for some it is a symbol of purity and chastity.

Fulco Verdura, spilla in ogiallo e bianco con
Fulco Verdura, spilla in oro giallo e bianco con perle

In fact, when we talk about flowers in jewelry and not only, and we immediately think of roses. But lily of the valley also inspired beautiful objects. In pagan times this flower symbolized happiness and for this reason it was considered a lucky charm, while in the Middle Ages the lily of the valley was also used as an amulet, associated with the celebration of May, the beginning of the month of engagement. But the result of a study conducted some time ago by the University Hospital of Padua is perhaps more surprising: it seems that men, who would have a greater olfactory capacity than the female category, are able to recognize an organic chemical, called bourgeonal, if emanating from women’s skin. And this fragrance, very similar to that of lily of the valley, is one of the factors triggering male attraction.

Dior Joaillerie, collier Diorissimo
Dior Joaillerie, collier Diorissimo

And it is precisely in the Victorian era, with the tradition of sentimental jewels, that the flower becomes one of the most represented motifs with a meaning linked to its era, namely romanticism. Since then more or less all the great jewelers have ventured into the theme and have created more or less realistic brooches, earrings and necklaces inspired by the forest flower. Here is a selection of the most beautiful pieces that all women would like to bring even in December, without being superstitious or looking for a boyfriend. Monica Battistoni

Dior Joaillerie, collier Diorissimo
Dior Joaillerie, collier Diorissimo

Ed è proprio in epoca vittoriana, con la tradizione dei gioielli sentimentali, che il fiore diventa uno dei motivi più rappresentati con un significato però legato alla sua epoca, ossia il romanticismo. Da allora più o meno tutti i grandi gioiellieri si sono cimentati nel tema e hanno creato spille, orecchini e collane più o meno realistiche ispirate al fiore di bosco. Ecco una selezione dei pezzi più belli che tutte le donne vorrebbero portare anche a dicembre, senza essere superstiziose o in cerca di fidanzato. Monica Battistoni

Cartier, spilla anni 50 in platino, diamanti taglio baguette e perle
Cartier, spilla anni 50 in platino, diamanti taglio baguette e perle
Spilla epoca Edoardiana in platino, oro giallo , diamanti e perle
Spilla epoca Edoardiana in platino, oro giallo , diamanti e perle
DellaValle
Michele della Valle, collana con diamanti taglio rotondo e tsavoriti
Suzanne Syz, orecchini in oro bianco e giallo con 18 perle Akoya, 554 zaffiri viola, 152 granati verdi, 330 diamanti e 356 smeraldi
Suzanne Syz, orecchini in oro bianco e giallo con 18 perle Akoya, 554 zaffiri viola, 152 granati verdi, 330 diamanti e 356 smeraldi
Tiffany, spilla in platino, diamanti e perle
Tiffany, spilla in platino, diamanti e perle
Tiffany, spilla in oro giallo e opale nero
Tiffany, spilla in oro giallo e opale nero
Lalique, orecchini in oro bianco con 76 diamanti, 6 zaffiri gialli, 6 zaffiri rosa, 6 zaffiri arancio, 6 quarzi rosa
Lalique, orecchini in oro bianco con 76 diamanti, 6 zaffiri gialli, 6 zaffiri rosa, 6 zaffiri arancio, 6 quarzi rosa
Van Cleef & Arpels, bracciale in oro con zaffiri, diamanti e tsavoriti
Van Cleef & Arpels, bracciale in oro con zaffiri, diamanti e tsavoriti

History of the Cartier Panther

History of the Cartier Panther, the most famous icon of the great French Maison. Here are all the things to know about the precious Panthère

Why do jewels (and Cartier watches) often use the Panther icon, which has become the sign of some famous collections? The charm of the Panthère originates in 1914, with a painting. At that time, as the expert Sabrina Doerr said, the Parisian company was run by Louis, Jacques, and Pierre Cartier (the Maison was founded in 1847 by his grandfather, Louis-François Cartier).

A brooch from the Panthère series by Cartier with yellow diamonds, onyx and emeralds
A brooch from the Panthère series by Cartier with yellow diamonds, onyx and emeralds

That year Louis asked French painter George Barbier to create a watercolor painting to use as an invitation to a jewelry exhibition. La Dame à la Panthère depicts an elegantly dressed woman with a panther at her feet. The small painting was so successful that from that moment Cartier started using the feline design.

George Barbier, «La Dame à la Panthère»
George Barbier, «La Dame à la Panthère»

According to Geo Cramer, an expert at Cartier, “at the beginning of the twentieth century, big cats were in vogue to express femininity: these animals were seen as the highest expression of women”. Characters who animated Parisian nights, such as the Marquise Luisa Casati, who had adopted cheetahs in her house in Venice (now home to the Guggenheim), confirm the fascination that super cats exerted in high society. In any case, in 1914 it marks Cartier’s first panther: a watch that has a speckled surface. The panther was completely depicted for the first time on a beauty case owned by Jeanne Toussaint, director of Cartier jewelry since 1933, considered the Coco Chanel of jewelry.

Aquamarine, diamond e perle, Panthère de Cartier, bracelet
Aquamarine, diamond e perle, Panthère de Cartier, bracelet

A working relationship between Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976) and Louis Cartier began when she was 31. Cartier had been awed by his beauty, carefree spirit, and aura of grandeur. Toussaint played an important role in making the Panthère de Cartier collection the icon it has become, so much so that she herself has been nicknamed La Panthère. In 1927, a designer named Peter Lemarchand joined the Cartier team. Very skilled, he observed the panthers at the zoo until, in collaboration with Toussaint, he was able to translate them into designs for making jewelry. Lemarchand played an important role in making the panther the legend it is today. In this period the first brooches depicting animals appear.

Cartier, colored sapphire, multi gem and diamond Panthère ring
Cartier, colored sapphire, multi gem and diamond Panthère ring

Over the years, many celebrities and high society figures have become admirers of the Panthère de Cartier collection. Actresses such as the Mexican Maria Felix, the American heiress Barbara Hutton, or the Duchess of Windsor, were among the fans of the panthers of the Parisian Maison. In 1948, for example, Wallis Simpson’s third husband, Prince Edward, Duke of Windsor, asked Cartier to create a three-dimensional panther brooch for his wife. The result is a jewel in yellow gold dotted with black enamel with an emerald-cut cabochon. This brooch also marked a milestone in the history of the Panthère de Cartier: it was the first time the feline was represented in three dimensions. A year later, in 1949, the Windsors bought another three-dimensional panther brooch, this time made with diamonds and onyx set in platinum, on a 152-carat sapphire cabochon. Not only that: the Duchess of Windsor bought other pieces from the Pantera collection in the following years.

Classic Panthère in gold, diamonds, platinum, onyx, emerald by Cartier
Classic Panthère in gold, diamonds, platinum, onyx, emerald by Cartier

Daisy Fellowes, socialite, heiress, editor of the American fashion magazine Harper Bazaar, was also a fan of the Cartier panther: in her time she bought a diamond and sapphire brooch, with the feline in the position of the sheep that symbolizes order. chivalrous of the Golden Fleece. In 1958, the Panther conquered Princess Nina Aga Khan (Nina Dyer, an Anglo-Indian model married to Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan). The Aga Khan purchased several elements of the Panthère de Cartier collection, including a brooch, a bracelet with panther-shaped ends, and a fluted gold bracelet designed with elements that can be transformed into earrings. And the story still continues. In 2014 Cartier celebrated 100 years of Panthère de Cartier with a series of 56 pieces of jewelery and an exhibition in Paris, at the Grand Palais.

Cartier Panthere clip broche. White gold, diamonds, onyx, emerald
Cartier Panthere clip brooch. White gold, diamonds, onyx, emerald
Panthère brooch in yellow gold, diamonds, onyx, emeralds
Panthère brooch in yellow gold, diamonds, onyx, emeralds
Cartier Panthere Tropical wristwatch
Cartier Panthere Tropical wristwatch
Collier Panthere, yellow gold, emerald
Collier Panthere, yellow gold, emerald
Resonances Panthere bracelet, 18K white gold, rubellites, emeralds, onyx and diamonds
Resonances Panthere bracelet, 18K white gold, rubellites, emeralds, onyx and diamonds
Anne Hathaway wears a Panthère bracelet by Cartier
Anne Hathaway wears a Panthère bracelet by Cartier
Jeanne Toussaint
Jeanne Toussaint

Cartier’s Le Voyage Recommencé

Traveling with Cartier. But it is a symbolic journey, which refers to the history of the Maison which belongs to the Richemont group. The journey is also across the frontiers of fine jewelry. And Cartier presented in Florence, one of the most famous tourist destinations, the stage of its itinerary, which has never stopped. This is why the new high jewelery collection is called Le Voyage Recommencé. Florence is also the home of classical Renaissance architecture. And the new collection is very inspired by the geometries of architecture, with jewels that show a refined choice of volumes. An idea that immediately appears clear in pieces such as the Ondule ring, with a grey-purple diamond in the centre.

Anello Ondule, in oro bianco, pavé di diamanti e un diamante grigio-viola al centro
Ondule ring, in white gold, pavé diamonds and a grey-violet diamond in the centre

Le Voyage Recommencé has over 80 new jewels, the result of the aesthetic care of Jacqueline Karachi, High Jewelery Creative Director of Cartier. The journey through the history of the Maison also passes through a new interpretation of symbols, such as the famous panthère, which is wrapped around the center of a necklace. The feline is used for the Panthère Givrée necklace, where the eyes with small emeralds are surrounded by diamonds and aquamarines, with small lapis lazuli as a link.

Collier Panthère GIvrée, con diamanti, acquamarina, lapislazzuli
Panthère Givrée necklace, with diamonds, aquamarine, lapis lazuli

There are many jewels with an exceptional charm. The Claustra necklace plays with a daring combination of openwork applied with the white of the diamonds and the black of the onyx, one of Cartier’s classic combinations. The extra touch is a 4.02-carat briolette-cut diamond. The Sama necklace required careful design work to assemble the different components. The result is a necklace that appears to be composed of crashing sea waves on a 19.27-carat Ceylon sapphire. But in reality the sea has nothing to do with it: the jewel is inspired by the dancing dervishes.

Collana Sama, con diamanti e uno zaffiro Ceylon da 19,27 carati
Collana Sama, con diamanti e uno zaffiro Ceylon da 19,27 carati

Still in Tuscany, but in the Lucchesia, Cartier sparks with his story in an exhibition with more than 350 pieces at Villa Reale di Marlia. The exclusive selection of Cartier high jewelery pieces has been set up according to the choices of Patricia Urquiola, architect and decorator who has recently readapted the premises of the Maison in rue de la Paix, in Paris.

La collana Claustra con diamanti e onice. Al centro un diamante taglio briolette da 4,02 carati
The Claustra necklace with diamonds and onyx. At the center is a 4.02-carat briolette-cut diamond
Collana Girih con smeraldi dello Zambia e turchesi intagliati
Girih necklace with carved emeralds from Zambia and turquoises
Collezione Le Voyage Recommencé
Le Voyage Recommencé Collection
La mostra di gioielli Cartier a Villa Reale di Marlia
The Cartier jewelry exhibition at Villa Reale in Marlia

The jewels of Art Nouveau

Art Nouveau jewels are back in the spotlight, but with the eclectic style of the early twentieth century in the USA, or a revisited baroque, or a set of patterns that mix different styles: necklaces, brooches and earrings from a century ago are a strange combination between excess and innovation. Compared to the nineteenth-century taste, the most consistent influences of the artistic taste of the time can be seen in the jewels of the first part of the last century.

René Lalique, spilla Art Nouveau Libellules, con aquamarina, smalto e diamanti
René Lalique, Art Nouveau Libellules brooch, with aquamarine, enamel and diamonds

Garlands by Cartier, embroideries, flowers by Boucheron and Chaumet, references to ancient Egypt or the Orient, are among the most striking aspects. Novelties also achieved thanks to innovations in processing, such as the more frequent use of platinum, a resistant metal, which has made it possible to acquire lightness, with jewels that have become less heavy and more resistant than those in silver. But in choosing a jewel that is one hundred years old one must be careful: at that time the manufacturing methods were different from the current ones, which are aided by technology.

Tiara art nouveau di Philippe Wolfers con spilla a forma di pavone
Art nouveau tiara by Philippe Wolfers (1858–1929), Belgian silversmith, jeweler, sculptor and designer, with peacock brooch

Even the choice of stones was less scientific than today, not to mention the treatment of the gems, which now manages to enhance stones that were then used in their natural state: opaque, cut in a somewhat approximate way to brilliant, pink, teardrop and cabochon, to which shapes such as calibré and briolettes were added. Yet the jewels between the end of the nineteenth century and the Roaring Twenties mark a turning point and retain a great charm. So much so that now they are once again the center of attention on the market, among auction houses and antiques.

Spilla con corallo, diamanti e smalto di Janesich, 1930
Art Nouveau ring with aquamarine, garnets and enamel by Georges Fouquet

But what are the characteristics of Art Nouveau jewels? It must be premised that the artists and craftsmen of the jewelry of that period wanted to distinguish themselves first of all from mass production, which was beginning to appear on the market at that time. For this reason, Art Nouveau jewels are characterized by refined craftsmanship. Famous designers and jewelers such as René Lalique, Louis Comfort Tiffany and Karl Fabergé are still remembered today. Their jewels have been copied and even the large object or fashion industries have been inspired by these masters of design.

Collana con ametista, giada e oro disegnata da Julia Munson sotto la direzione di Louis Comfort Tiffany nel 1906
Amethyst, jade and gold necklace designed by Julia Munson under the direction of Louis Comfort Tiffany in 1906

In turn, the creators of Art Nouveau jewelery were fascinated by the art of China and Japan, which were still little known artistic expressions in the West. Natural elements such as animals, insects or flowers have been associated with mythical creatures such as dragons. And, as in the watercolors made in China and Japan, Art Nouveau favored pastel colors.

Pendente di collier Art Nouveau in oro e smalto, con viso di donna e glicine
Art Nouveau necklace pendant in gold and enamel, with a woman’s face and wisteria

Art Nouveau jewels also favored the female figure. Let’s not forget that in the Victorian era a woman could not show even an ankle in public. Art Nouveau was not afraid, as a reaction, to enhance the female body without censorship, often in figures associated with mythological or fantastic characters. Even the jewelery has taken this aspect into account.

Collana Lucertola, Francia Art Nouveau, 1900, in bachelite e metallo
Lizard necklace, France Art Nouveau, 1900, in bakelite and metal

The most famous creator of that period was the French glass designer and goldsmith René Lalique (lived between 1860 and 1945). He used soft colors and volumes with sinuous curves, semi-precious stones, amber, mother-of-pearl, and unusual materials such as tortoise shell, horn, baroque pearls.

René Lalique
René Lalique
Pendente a forma di delfino di James Cromar Watt. Smalto, oro, opale e perle
James Cromar Watt dolphin pendant. Enamel, gold, opal and pearls
Spilla a forma di rana in oro, diamanti, opali e rubini
Brooch in the shape of a frog in gold, diamonds, opals and rubies
Spilla in alessandrite, diamanti e smalto Art Nouveau, circa 1900, Marcus & co
Art Nouveau alexandrite, diamond and enamel brooch, circa 1900, Marcus & co
Uovo con cestino di fiori per lo zar Nicola firmato Peter Carl Fabergé
Egg with basket of flowers for Tsar Nicholas signed Peter Carl Fabergé

Jewelry like Easter eggs




Easter is a holiday that in the West is also synonymous with eggs. But eggs are not only an ingredient for typical dishes of this period. The oval shape has been used in the history of art as a symbol of rebirth, of motherhood, of a nature that is renewed. And it often occurs also in jewelery, in particular the precious eggs produced by Fabergé are famous. The great Russian jeweler, whose brand has been back to life for a few years (since 2012 he joined the Gemfield group), has produced 50 imperial eggs, created especially for the tsars.

Il motivo cinese della Gazza blu e bianca è realizzato in titanio e oro bianco e giallo 18 carati, con un pavé di oltre 500 gemme, delicati rami di alberi in oro bianco incastonati con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba. Una perla conch diventa un uovo su un nido d'oro giallo. Il pezzo è stato ispirato dall'antico motivo a fiori e uccelli blu e bianco su un piatto di porcellana a forma di cerchio del National Museum of History di Washington, DC, nonché alle opere di Giuseppe Castiglione, missionario gesuita e pittore del corte imperiale cinese
Spilla di Anna Hu. Il motivo cinese della Gazza blu e bianca è realizzato in titanio e oro bianco e giallo 18 carati, con un pavé di oltre 500 gemme, delicati rami di alberi in oro bianco incastonati con diamanti e tormalina Paraiba. Una perla conch diventa un uovo su un nido d’oro giallo. Il pezzo è stato ispirato dall’antico motivo a fiori e uccelli blu e bianco su un piatto di porcellana a forma di cerchio del National Museum of History di Washington, DC, nonché alle opere di Giuseppe Castiglione, missionario gesuita e pittore del corte imperiale cinese

Today they are worth millions, they are often kept in museums and rare private collections around the world. The Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg, opened in 2013, houses the famous first egg which was owned by Empress Feodorovna. Seven imperial eggs, however, are actually still missing. But if Fabergé eggs are famous, and continue to be produced as jewels under the new management, there are also others in jewelery. Some others eggs are very gorgeous, such as the gold brooch signed by Cartier, while other eggs are less refined jewels, but still suitable to be combined on Easter day.

Uovo con gemme di Kristen Malan
Uovo con gemme di Kristen Malan

Of course, we don’t necessarily have to stop at a simple jewel. Why not celebrate Easter with an oval cut diamond? Diamonds with this shape, in reality, are not exactly similar to a natural egg, but they are symmetrical. The two longer areas, therefore, are perfectly identical. The same goes for other gems cut with the oval shape. Oval cut diamonds are considered to be some of the most elegant and, when set on a ring, tend to make the fingers appear longer and tapered – something to consider.

Anello con diamante ovale di oltre 43 carati
Anello con diamante ovale di oltre 43 carati
Collana in oro rosa 18 carati, composta da 206 perle di smeraldo dello Zambia, diamanti rotondi e con taglio princess by Fabergé
Collana in oro rosa 18 carati, composta da 206 perle di smeraldo dello Zambia, diamanti rotondi e con taglio princess by Fabergé
Nido composto a mano con un uovo d'oro e due uova di porcellana
Tiffany, nido composto a mano con un uovo d’oro e due uova di porcellana
rina limor
Rina Limor, orecchini in argento con zaffiri
Bibi van der Velden, orecchini in oro e avorio di mammuth
Bibi van der Velden, orecchini in oro e avorio di mammuth
Raro uovo per lo zar Alessandro firmato Peter Carl Fabergé
Raro uovo per lo zar Alessandro firmato Peter Carl Fabergé
Pendente di Jean-Schlumberger per Tiffany, con oro e diamanti
Pendente di Jean-Schlumberger per Tiffany, con oro e diamanti
Pendente di Fabergé con diamanti, smeraldi e acquamarina
Pendente di Fabergé con diamanti, smeraldi e acquamarina






Cartier with Snapchat for the new Tank Française




Cartier watches in digital version. The occasion is the new version of the Tank Française watch from the French Maison. It is one of Cartier’s most famous timepieces which, for the promotion, has decided to use the Snapchat platform with a Portal Lens. The result is an immersive message based on augmented reality, which takes Snapchat users to the heart of the brand’s universe. Through the app users are transported to Paris and travel in time, up to 1917, on the Alexandre III bridge. By moving the smartphone sideways, it is possible to touch the Parisian atmosphere and discover the different versions of the watch, both for men and women. Just click on the following periods, first 1936, then 1977, up to 2023, to discover the models that have marked the history of Cartier’s iconic watch. The new version of the French Tank appears at the end and you can try it out by framing your wrist with your smartphone.

Cartier Tank Francaise nel 1917
Cartier Tank Francaise nel 1917

Times change but elegance remains unchanged: this is what we have tried to express in an immersive way thanks to our partnership with Snap, which puts augmented reality at the service of discovering the new Tank Française.
Arnaud Carrez, Senior Vice President and Chief Marketing Officer of Cartier

Orologio Tank Française, modello grande, movimento meccanico a carica automatica. Cassa in acciaio. Corona poligonale in acciaio ornata di uno spinello sintetico cabochon. Quadrante argentato, lancette a forma di gladio d’acciaio azzurrato, vetro zaffiro. Bracciale in acciaio. Dimensioni della cassa: 36.7 mm x 30.5 mm, spessore: 10,1 mm. Impermeabile fino a 30 metri
Orologio Tank Française, modello grande, movimento meccanico a carica automatica. Cassa in acciaio. Corona poligonale in acciaio ornata di uno spinello sintetico cabochon. Quadrante argentato, lancette a forma di gladio d’acciaio azzurrato, vetro zaffiro. Bracciale in acciaio. Dimensioni della cassa: 36.7 mm x 30.5 mm, spessore: 10,1 mm. Impermeabile fino a 30 metri

The realistic finishes allow you to visually appreciate even the smallest details of the new version of the famous watch, which reinvents itself and stands the test of time thanks to the intelligence of its design. Launched in 1996, the Tank Française debuted with a metal strap in perfect harmony with the case, quickly becoming part of the large Tank family. A one-piece metal design that Cartier is radicalising with this brand new version.
Cartier Tank Francaise, 1936
Cartier Tank Francaise, 1936

Over 250 million people interact with augmented reality on Snapchat every day. Our technology opens up creative possibilities never imagined before, making the luxury industry even more personal, accessible and practical. Cartier continues to push the limits of creativity and innovation, offering Snapchat users an immersive way to discover the different versions of its iconic watch and try it on their wrist, using augmented reality.
Geoffrey Perez, Head of Global Luxury at Snap

Cartier Tank Francaise, 1977
Cartier Tank Francaise, 1977

Il logo Snapchat-Cartier
Il logo Snapchat-Cartier







Faraone Casa d’Aste: diamonds and a Cartier bracelet on top




A single diamond not mounted on a ring was the top lot of the sale organized by Faraone Casa d’Aste in Milan. Jewellery, together with watches and luxury goods, totaled a total of 1.2 million euros, approximately 105% of the estimated value. A positive balance, therefore, which added to that of the auction held in May, marks +35% compared to the result of the two auctions in 2021. The protagonist was a 3.41-carat diamond, estimated at 30,000 euros and awarded for 50,000. A pair of brooches with sapphires and diamonds also stands out, sold for 13,000 euros, but with an estimate of 5,000. A solitaire ring in white gold, with a 3.12-carat round brilliant-cut diamond was auctioned for 26,000 against the 18,000 estimate, and a brooch in 9-carat rose gold, but with an octagonal emerald of 12.20 carats, arrived at 12,000 euros against the starting 1,500.

Diamante taglio brillante di 3,41 carati
Diamante taglio brillante di 3,41 carati

Also sold well were a platinum ring with a minor oil Colombian emerald weighing 3.60 carats, surrounded by diamonds (24,000), and a double-strand choker with natural saltwater pearls (27,000), a rigid yellow gold bracelet and white and diamonds (20,000) and a platinum ring signed Sabbadini with a cushion diamond of 8.45 carats, is sold for a value of 78,000 against the 50,000.00 estimate. Finally, a Cartier Chimere Open Bangle in yellow gold that started at 8,000 euros reached 77,000.
Coppia di spille in platino e oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti navette, baguette e tapered per circa 6,80 carati. Al centro zaffiri carrè invisible set per  circa 5,20
Coppia di spille in platino e oro bianco 18 carati con diamanti navette, baguette e tapered per circa 6,80 carati. Al centro zaffiri carrè invisible set per circa 5,20

Open Bangle Chimere di Cartier in oro giallo
Open Bangle Chimere di Cartier in oro giallo
Spilla in oro rosa 9 carati con smeraldo ottagonale di 12,20 carati
Spilla in oro rosa 9 carati con smeraldo ottagonale di 12,20 carati
Anello in platino con smeraldo colombiano minor oil di 3,60 carati
Anello in platino con smeraldo colombiano minor oil di 3,60 carati
Anello con diamanti di 3,12 carati
Anello con diamanti di 3,12 carati

Bracciale rigido in oro giallo e bianco e diamanti
Bracciale rigido in oro giallo e bianco e diamanti







Online jewels between Panthère and Serpenti




Online jewelry auctions have become a real revolution for fans of the genre. In fact, they allow you to be present virtually from all over the world, and this will also be the case for the new online auction at Christie’s. The Jewels Online are on sale until December 8, with a selection that includes jewels of various kinds, from ancient to contemporary, as well as diamonds and colored stones. The catalog includes jewels from Maisons and designers such as Belperron, Boucheron, Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Harry Winston, Hermès, Oscar Heyman & Brothers, Raymond Yard, Taffin, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Verdura.

Bulgari, bracciale Serpenti in oro bianco e diamanti
Bulgari, bracciale Serpenti in oro bianco e diamanti

Over half of the sale is offered without reserve and will be on display during Christie’s Luxury Week at the Rockefeller Center galleries in New York City December 2-5. The highest expectations are for an unmounted D-color diamond weighing a hefty 50.06 carats (estimate $2-4 million). Among the jewels are a Panthère ring by Cartier with colored sapphires, multiple gems and diamonds (estimate 40,000-60,000), and the Taj Mahal earrings with diamonds (20,000-30,000) by the same Maison. Another collector’s item is a Serpenti bracelet with Bulgari diamonds (40,000-60,000). The sale also features pieces from private collections, including those of Susan Lasker Brody, the David and Laura Finn Collection, owned by Virginia Kraft-Payson and Bourne Strassburger.
Orecchini Taj Mahal di Cartier in oro bianco e diamanti
Orecchini Taj Mahal di Cartier in oro bianco e diamanti

Anello eternity in oro bianco e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels
Anello eternity in oro bianco e diamanti di Van Cleef & Arpels
Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels a forma di leopardo
Spilla di Van Cleef & Arpels a forma di leopardo
LOT 61 Van Cleef Arpels Onyx and Diamond Pendant and Necklace
Collana di Van Cleef & Arpels in oro, diamanti, onice
LOT 63 Van Cleef Arpels Lapis Lazuli and Gold Vintage Alhambra Necklace
Collana Alhambra di Van Cleef & Arpels in oro e lapislazzuli

Anello di Harry Winston con rubino e diamanti
Anello di Harry Winston con rubino e diamanti

Anello Panthère di Cartier in oro bianco, diamanti e uno zaffiro rosa
Anello Panthère di Cartier in oro bianco, diamanti e uno zaffiro rosa







Cipullo’s 70s jewels




The Cartier jewels designed by Aldo Cipullo: the seventies are a classic ♦

From the bijoux and silver chains of Tuscany to the altars of New York and Paris high jewelry: the story of Aldo Cipullo is probably unrepeatable. The son of a manufacturer of costume jewelery components, as there are many between Florence and Arezzo, Aldo Cipullo moved to New York in 1959, having learned the secrets of the trade from his father. But his reason for living was design and jewelry. First he worked for Tiffany, then for David Web. But his consecration as a great designer took place with Cartier, in 1969, the year of the moon landing.

Aldo Cipullo
Aldo Cipullo

With the French Maison he signed some of the pieces that marked an era, such as the Love bracelet. The idea: two bands of gold held together and tightened on the wrist by a small screwdriver. It is one of the first jewels considered unisex. To launch the bracelet, Cartier gives 25 bracelets double, for him and for her, to as many famous couples, including Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. Liz wears Love in the movie X, Y & Zee, and contributes to the success of the jewel.

Bracciale Love di Cartier disegnato da Aldo Cipullo
Bracciale Love di Cartier disegnato da Aldo Cipullo
Liz Taylor, con Richard Burton, indossa il bracciale Love
Liz Taylor, con Richard Burton, indossa il bracciale Love

Another icon is the Cartier formed by a twisted nail. And in 1972 it was the turn of another iconic jewel, Juste un Clou. A simple bent nail that breaks jewelery conventions with a form borrowed from the world of tools. Cartier proposes this jewel several times, even in new versions with diamonds. A success that convinces Cartier to allow the designer to sign his creations for Cartier, an honor he was the only one to obtain.

Il bracciale in oro rosa e diamanti Just un clou
Il bracciale in oro rosa e diamanti Just un clou

The contamination of gold and semi-precious stones (such as lapis lazuli, carnelian, onyx, jade), the large rings that form necklaces and earrings, the decidedly attuned style of the Seventies, make Cipullo signed jewelry a classic that continues to be appreciated. The designer died in 1984, at age 48, but his jewelry is still produced and sold. Cartier dedicated a retrospective exhibition to Cipullo in 2012. Because his myth still lasts.

Bracciale per Cartier in oro, cristallo di rocca e onice
Bracciale per Cartier in oro, cristallo di rocca e onice
Orecchini per Cartier in oro, lapislazzuli e onice
Orecchini per Cartier in oro, lapislazzuli e onice
Collana per Cartier in oro e corniola
Collana per Cartier in oro e corniola
Collana in oro, crisoprasio e corallo
Collana in oro, crisoprasio e corallo
Orecchini del 1973 in oro, onice, corniola per Cartier
Orecchini del 1973 in oro, onice, corniola per Cartier

Juste un clou. Photo: Jean-Jacques Pallot © Cartier 2013
Juste un clou. Photo: Jean-Jacques Pallot © Cartier 2013







Cartier bracelets-necklace with rubies at the Bolaffi auction




The jewelry auctions in Milan open the season with two valuable pieces. It is a pair of ruby ​​and diamond bracelets made in the 1920s by Cartier, in the catalog for the sale of Aste Bolaffi. The two bracelets are in platinum, with 16 rubies of various cuts alternating with rectangular links set in pavé diamonds. The two bracelets can be joined to form a collier de chien, that is, a choker. The estimated weight of diamonds is 6 and 8 carats, for rubies it goes up to 40 and 45 carats. The larger bracelet features the house’s signature, Cartier, French platinum hallmarks and the manufacturer Gustave Renault. The starting price is around 200,000 euros.

Bracciali trasformabili in girocollo di Cartier, platino, diamanti e rubini
Bracciali trasformabili in girocollo di Cartier, platino, diamanti e rubini

The Aste Bolaffi Jewelery auction, scheduled for October 13 at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Milan and October 14 in live internet mode on astabolaffi.it, also includes an unmounted brilliant cut diamond of over 13 carats, VS2 clarity ( base 80 thousand euros) and a rivière necklace with 69 brilliant-cut diamonds of a total of 30 carats (lot 281, base 55 thousand euros). Among the other jewels in the catalog there is also a Bamboo Cartier choker with original box and matching earrings, a three-color gold bracelet by Pomellato and the 1930s demi-parure consisting of a pendant-brooch and a pair of earrings with cut diamonds. brilliant of over 7 carats. An antique bracelet adorned with polychrome enamels bearing the Papal State hallmark and bracelets from the Thirties to the Fifties and jewelry by Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron are among the nearly 500 pieces on sale.
Anello con zaffiro blu e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro blu e diamanti

Collier bamboo di Cartier
Collier bamboo di Cartier

Girocollo di diamanti rivière
Girocollo di diamanti rivière

Bracciali di Cartier. Il peso stimato dei diamanti e di 6 e 8 carati, per i rubini si sale a 40 e 45 carati
Bracciali di Cartier. Il peso stimato dei diamanti e di 6 e 8 carati, per i rubini si sale a 40 e 45 carati







Seaman Schepps story





Short history of the great American designer Seaman Schepps, a master of color ♦ ︎
There are designers who have a resounding success for a shorter or longer period. And there are designers who enter history. One of these is Seaman Schepps. Son of immigrants, he became famous for his vintage-style jewelry. From the East Side of New York, at the end of the nineteenth century, Schepps moved to California, with its own shop in Los Angeles that also sold antiques in addition to jewelry. In 1931 he returned to New York, where he finally had a good success with a store on Madison Avenue.

Anello di Seaman Schepps in oro e lapislazzuli
Anello di Seaman Schepps in oro e lapislazzuli

Schepps, like many Americans of that time, regarded Europe as the beacon of creativity. Therefore, when he visited Paris, he studied Verdura’s jewels for Chanel, Suzanne Belperron, René Boivin and Jeanne Toussaint for Cartier. These great designers have contributed to the professional growth of Schepps, which has found its artistic path: large jewelry, super retro-style bracelets, many colored stones. He was not a revolutionary of jewelry, but a painter who used the colors of the palette in an original way.

Collana con tormalina rosa, perle, zaffiri, diamanti
Collana con tormalina rosa, perle, zaffiri, diamanti

The stones were often cut irregularly, they used little diamonds, while they preferred pastel-colored stones like blue sapphires, emeralds, yellow topazes, citrines, rose quartz, jade, turquoise and lapis lazuli. In short, he has reworked already used geometries, such as the Maltese cross, but with his own style. His work continued until the late 1960s. Then, the Seaman Schepps brand was sold to Jay Bauer and Anthony Hopenjam and still exists. But the designer’s original jewels are still very sought after. Cosimo Muzzano

Orecchini con rubini sintetici e diamanti
Orecchini con rubini sintetici e diamanti
Collana e orecchini di perle coltivate e diamanti
Collana e orecchini di perle coltivate e diamanti
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, e perle di rubino
Orecchini in oro 18 carati, e perle di rubino
Collana in quarzo avventurina, giada e rubini
Collana in quarzo avventurina, giada e rubini
Orecchini con conchiglia, oro, perle
Orecchini con conchiglia, oro, perle
Bracciale in oro, gemme e diamanti
Bracciale in oro, gemme e diamanti
Bracciale Rio, in oro 18 carati, platino, pietre colorate e diamanti
Bracciale Rio, in oro 18 carati, platino, pietre colorate e diamanti
Bracciale multigemma venduto da Christie's
Bracciale multigemma venduto da Christie’s
Spilla a forma di cornucopia con perle mobili, diamanti, smeraldo
Spilla a forma di cornucopia con perle mobili, diamanti, smeraldo
Bracciale anni Cinquanta venduto da Sotheby's
Bracciale anni Cinquanta venduto da Sotheby’s

Spilla floreale con citrini
Spilla floreale con citrini

Un giovane Seam Schepps
Un giovane Seam Schepps







Can ceramic jewelry be trusted?




Is it reliable to buy a ceramic jewel? Are ceramic jewels fragile? Here is the answer ♦

Durable, very resistant and incredibly light: the use of ceramic in jewelry is an unstoppable trend thanks to the technology that today allows to obtain a resistant material. Do not worry that it is fragile: the new ceramic used in jewelry is made of a kind of new steel that has nothing to do with the fragility of the flower pots or the dishes to contain the food (even if there are small producers who still use traditional ceramics: be careful). For those who are doubtful: this ceramic is made with titanium carbide, a compound similar to tungsten carbide, used in the aerospace industry, in the production of weapons and tools. And the most surprising aspect is that very little wear: in practice, the ceramic always looks new.

Anelli della collezione Enlanced in oro rosa e ceramica
Anelli della collezione Enlanced in oro rosa e ceramica di Fawaz Gruosi

It is therefore not surprising that major brands such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Bulgari, Cartier and Gucci, de Grisogono, Solange Azagury-Partridge or Damiani and Demeglio have chosen it to give their creations, especially timeless icon jewels, an indestructible strength lightened by the beauty of the design. For example, in the B.Zero1 line by Bulgari, in the rings with the Gucci monogram, in the bands of the Cartier Trinity motif and in the Clous theme by Louis Vuitton. All timeless pieces also for their resistance.

Anello in ceramica, oro rosa e zaffiri rosa
Anello in ceramica, oro rosa e zaffiri rosa by Shay

And Wallace Chan, one of the greatest jewelers-artists, a couple of years ago developed an incredible indestructible porcelain and five times harder than steel, a material that allows him to create jewelry, but also sculptures, which could not be made with other elements. In short, a very different material from the ceramic used for jewelry in the Victorian era.

Wallace Chan, anello con ceramica e zaffiri
Wallace Chan, anello con ceramica e zaffiri

Positive aspects: tech ceramic jewels are not scratched, they are very resistant, they can be easily cleaned with water and a few drops of detergent on a damp cloth.

Negative aspects: they do not have the same value as gold and in case of sale they are less quoted. A ceramic ring cannot be reduced or enlarged.

Bracciale in oro, zaffiri, inserti in ceramica bianca
Bracciale in oro, zaffiri, inserti in ceramica bianca by Picchiotti
Orecchini in ceramica
Orecchini in ceramica di Ming
Damiani_D. Icon, anello ceramica nera con pavé di diamanti
Damiani_D. Icon, anello ceramica nera con pavé di diamanti

Anello in oro, ceramica azzurra, diamanti taglio marquise
Etho Maria, anello in oro, ceramica azzurra, diamanti taglio marquise







With Cartier, luxury passes through Istanbul




More than 37 million passengers passed through the Istanbul airport in 2021. In 2022 there will be many more. The international airport has become the busiest airport in Europe and the second largest airport in the world in terms of international passenger traffic. It is therefore no surprise that Cartier has decided to open a super boutique right at the Istanbul airport. There is also a geopolitical reason. With the stop of business in Russia, due to the war in Ukraine, the tourism of the Moscow upper class passes through the Middle East. And it makes a stop in the main Turkish city.

La boutique Cartier all'interno dell'aeroporto di Istanbul
La boutique Cartier all’interno dell’aeroporto di Istanbul

Cartier then played his game. It has partnered with the duty free company to open the brand’s largest independent retail boutique. The boutique is located in a special area of ​​Istanbul airport, Luxury Watches & Jewelery Zone, together with the flagship stores of Bvlgari, Bottega Veneta, Céline, Dior, Fendi, Gucci, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Prada and Saint Laurent. The Cartier store expands to 130 square meters and has a very visible design, with a 12 meter high facade, designed with three-dimensional light elements that shine like gold. A style that should appeal to customers from the Middle East and Eastern Europe.

L'interno della boutique Cartier
L’interno della boutique Cartier

The store, in addition to Cartier jewelery, offers the entire range of the Maison’s products, such as watches and leather goods, perfumes and sunglasses. Together with the red color that characterizes the brand, the light marble stands out. An Icon Bar in the center showcases the most iconic pieces and lines such as Clash De Cartier and Santos, which reinterpret the classic Cartier models.

We are delighted to open the largest Cartier boutique in the retail travel industry with our valued partner and operator ATÜ Duty Free at Istanbul Airport. At Cartier, we continually strive to build presence in Turkey and look forward to being part of all travelers’ trips to this major international airport.
Nicolas Martin, CEO of Cartier Turkey and Levant

La boutique all'aeroporto di Istanbul
La boutique all’aeroporto di Istanbul

Gioielli Cartier in esposizione
Gioielli Cartier in esposizione







How to recognize Art Deco jewelry




Art Deco style jewels were the protagonists of the 1920s and 1930s, but have been rediscovered by the great Maison. Can you recognize an Art Deco ring or necklace? Here is a quick guide to the Roaring Twenties ♦ jewelry

Jewelry that was fashionable a century ago is still in fashion today. Jewelry at that time was sparkling, decadent and at the same time poignant. The geometric designs, the accent on clear shapes, often flat colors, with an architectural and classic style at the same time, have made Art Déco jewels timeless pieces. And not only do they like the original ones, made in those years by the great Maison, but that style is continually a source of inspiration for contemporary designers.

Bracciale stile art déco in platino, diamanti e onice
Neil Lane, bracciale stile art déco in platino, diamanti e onice

Mix of shapes
Like a sparkling cocktail, the jewels of the twenties were an intoxicating mixture of inspirations and influences. A bridge between the stylization of the Ballets Russes that excited Paris and the emotion of the Jazz Age: speed, race, the rhythm of the machine, Cubism, African art, oriental exoticism. These influences have also reverberated on the creations of luxury and design. A style that ended up going down in history as Art Deco, after 1925 Paris ExpositionInternationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The role of Cartier This style has a slow evolution. He had also been training for the work of Cartier, who around 1910 began to have a greater stylization of the floral motifs, with compositions composed of small carved gems. Like the series known as Tutti-frutti, a riot of emeralds, pearls, rubies and sapphires. Now these jewels are among the most sought after, thanks to the most typical features of Cartier’s Art Deco pieces. Perhaps not everyone knows, among other things, that the idea of ​​this design was influenced by Indian jewelry, thanks to Cartier’s relations with a maharajah who arrived in Paris to make the traditional jewels of his country, but revisited in a modern style. The combination of blue and green, based on traditional Indian enamel work, and techniques such as jewelry-sculpture, played a vital role in the development of Cartier’s Art Deco jewelry.
Il collier art déco di Jean Fouquet con acquamarina e lacca
Il collier art déco di Jean Fouquet con acquamarina e lacca

Even today this style like it
An All-Fruit bracelet from Cartier was sold for $ 1.4 million from Sotheby. But the most famous example of the style is the Collier Hindou, created by Cartier in 1936 for Daisy Fellowes, heiress of the Singer sewing machine company and obsessive jewelry collector. In Van Cleef & Arpels the same Daisy Fellowes in 1926 and 1928 commissioned a pair of Indian-inspired bracelets (or anklets): they were conceived as a deep band of diamonds arranged in a geometric pattern, reminiscent of a Persian rug, with a luxuriant fringe of emerald drops.

Cartier, bracciale Tutti i frutti
Cartier, bracciale Tutti i fruttiCartier, bracciale Tutti i frutti

New cuts and exoticism
In this period the stones were often cut into small squares or oblong rectangles, combined with an elegant design, with moldings, roundings or cabochons. As in the famous bracelets with an Egyptian style frieze by Arpels, in which the scenes are drawn with impeccable cut colored gems. Even Cartier was not immune to the Egyptian vein, which was part of the climate of exoticism that has expanded to the Persian, Chinese and Japanese designs, which began in the early twentieth century. In some cases the Cartier jewels have even used, incorporating them, fragments of antiquities from the past, such as Egyptian scarabs or amulets. From this exoticism also come the bold combinations of colors, which are a surprising feature of Art Deco jewelry: the mix of blue and green, sapphires with emeralds, turquoise with lapis, the contrast of coral and onyx, or coral with emeralds, diamonds and onyx.

Daisy Fellowes
Daisy Fellowes

Live the monochrome
In the mid-1920s a change of pace, an alternative mood, with monochromatic colors and black and white compositions, arrived instead. In 1925 Tiffany proposed a ring with an onyx surface, in black segments, and diamonds. A scheme that was favored by the great talent of the designer Suzanne Belperron, in her work with Bernard Herz. The Belperron synthesized in a certain sense the new woman of the years between 1920 and 1930. Her jewels, like all the most beautiful Art Deco pieces, were beyond the fashion of the moment, which had adopted appropriate shapes to the new silhouette feminine, that is, less designed clothes for the “curve to them” of the Edwardian woman. In those years the clothes are instead proposed with a streamlined line, with a cylindrical, tubular, short, sleeveless shape. Maybe with fringes, beads or sequins for the dance, while the hairstyles go to the garçonne, with the short haircut, which brings out long earrings.

Spilla di diamanti e rubino, Van Cleef & Arpels , 1937
Spilla di diamanti e rubino, Van Cleef & Arpels , 1937

Change the horizon
The design of the twentieth-thirties jewel was generally vertical. The pins had long pins, the jabot or double-headed cliquet, worn perhaps in a corner of the unusual dress, on the belt, on the cloche hats, near the neckline. And the necklaces were generally sautoir, that is, long and loose strands of beads, often with a sensual bow at the end. For the great heiresses and worldly like Daisy Fellowes, Mrs. Harrison Williams or Barbara Hutton, these fabulously modern and daring jewels were part of their personality. Yet, those who were then daring designs, have become classics. Giulia Netrese

Spilla art déco del 1925 con lapislazzuli, corallo, giada, onice, diamanti
Spilla art déco del 1925 con lapislazzuli, corallo, giada, onice, diamanti
Cartier, Art Déco. Bracciale Tutti Frutti con diamanti, smeraldi, rubini, zaffiri
Cartier, Art Déco. Bracciale Tutti Frutti con diamanti, smeraldi, rubini, zaffiri
Bracciale Art Dèco di Cartier, 1922. Corallo, onice, diamanti
Bracciale Art Dèco di Cartier, 1922. Corallo, onice, diamanti
Anello Art Deco con rubino e diamanti, circa 1930. Prezzo: 10.500 sterline
Anello Art Deco con rubino e diamanti, circa 1930
Bracciale Art Déco con diamanti e rubini di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1940
Bracciale Art Déco con diamanti e rubini di Van Cleef & Arpels, 1940
Cartier, orecchini di diamanti tagliati a smeraldo e smeraldi a goccia, 1934
Cartier, orecchini di diamanti tagliati a smeraldo e smeraldi a goccia, 1934






The secrets of the princess cut




Diamonds with princess cut, also chosen by Emily Ratajkowski, seems to have a lot of fans. That’s why ♦

Do you want feel as princesses? It’s easy, just choose a ring with a princess cut diamond, enjoyed even by Emily-Ratajkowski. The engagement rings princess cut diamonds, that is squared (square or rectangular), they have a recent history. This type of cut was introduced only in 1960, but encoded in 1981 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itskowitz. In return, it quickly became popular. The reason is simple: it seems so much. A princess cut diamond should have an average of 58 to 76 facets but, what is more important, it seems larger than the classic round brilliant cut (ie round). Even in the upside-down pyramid shape with rounded sides it has a very good performance in terms of light reflection. The right considered ratio between the sides to a square shape is between 1 and 1.05, while for the rectangular shape is 1 to 1.10 to 1.20.

Emily Ratajkowski con l'anello di fidanzamento: ha due diamanti taglio princess da 2 carati e un diamante a forma di pera a 3 carati su una fascia d'oro
Emily Ratajkowski con l’anello di fidanzamento: ha due diamanti taglio princess da 2 carati e un diamante a forma di pera a 3 carati su una fascia d’oro

Another advantage is that usually the stones cut in this way also have a lower cost in proportion, because it wastes less material from the rough stone. In particular, the princess shape keeps about 80% of the rough diamond, while the round brilliant retains only about 50%. If then around the diamond princess cut are joined other small stones, the effect is assured. No coincidence that many Maison offer from engagement rings with diamonds cut in this way.

Anello in oro e platino con diamante
Anello in oro e platino con diamante taglio princess

Buying Tips
Experts advise to choose at least one diamond with VS2 clarity, H color and, of course, a stone cut well. How? Try to draw an imaginary line that crosses the stone for the length, and observed whether the facets on the right and left halves have the same shape and size. Now, do the same operation in the horizontal direction and see if the opposite faces are the same size. Observe also the bottom and check that there are no cracks in the stone. And, last but not least, wear the ring.

Anello di Cartier, collezione 1895. Prezzo: da 3500 euro
Anello di Cartier, collezione 1895. Prezzo: da 3500 euro
Anello di Vuitton in oro rosa con piccolo diamante taglio princess. Prezzo: 1150 euro
Anello di Vuitton in oro rosa con piccolo diamante taglio princess. Prezzo: 1150 euro
Anello Tiffany con diamante taglio princess. A partire da 10.800 euro
Anello Tiffany con diamante taglio princess. A partire da 10.800 euro
Anello di De Beers. Prezzo: 4350 dollari
Anello di De Beers. Prezzo: 4350 dollari
La proporzione dei diamanti taglio princess di diverse carature
La proporzione dei diamanti taglio princess di diverse carature

I diversi tagli dei diamanti
I diversi tagli dei diamanti







1 2 3 11