alta gioielleria

The surprise of Serendipity Paris

For the uninitiated, the term serendipity means discovering something by chance, i.e. finding something unsought and unexpected, while looking for another. The term was coined by the English writer Horace Walpole in the 18th century. But it is also the name of a Maison, Serendipity Paris, founded by Christine Chen in 2017. The name is not accidental. The designer and gemologist discovered her passion for gems by chance during a trip to Australia over a decade ago: she witnessed the entire process of cutting and polishing a rough diamond, with a small opaque stone becoming a polished brilliant. The word serendipity is therefore perfectly apt.

Collana Blooming Ginko in oro, smeraldi colombiani non trattati per 12,75 carati, diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Blooming Ginko necklace in gold, 12.75 carats of untreated Colombian emeralds, diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The experience prompted Christine Chen to become a gemologist and to found her own Maison, with the idea of ​​doing the best possible. In fact, the designer has realized that gems are often cut or set badly, or are unable to express their beauty. Serendipity Paris is based in Paris and uses the best quality stones. Jewelery design is also a strong point, as in collections such as Double Me or My little One.

Collana Blooming Ginko, dettaglio. Copyright: gioiellis.com Copyright: gioiellis.com
Blooming Ginko necklace, detail. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini componibili Blooming Ginko. Copyright: gioiellis.com Copyright: gioiellis.com Copyright: gioiellis.com
Blooming Ginko modular earrings. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini in elementi separati. Copyright: gioiellis.com Copyright: gioiellis.com Copyright: gioiellis.com Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earrings in separate elements. Copyright: gioiellis.com
tiara in oro bianco, acquamarina brasiliana taglio cuore per 50carati, diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Tiara in white gold, 50 carat heart-cut Brazilian aquamarine, diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello con giada antica taglio cabochon e diamanti
Ring with ancient cabochon cut jade and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The art of Carlo Luca della Quercia

Carlo Luca della Quercia, a story behind in the form of a snake ♦ ︎

A century of history that get revival: it is 27 years Carlo Luca della Quercia, brand born in the last century and rebuilt by Giovanni along with Carlo and Gian Luca in the eldorado of the Italian jewelery, Valenza, in 1997.
Carlo della Quercia studied gemmology at the Gia of New York and N.Y. University. Gian Luca studied in Milan and London with artistic title. This luggage has enabled the revival of historic jewels of the early twentieth century and art deco, preserved in the archives of the Maison. Among the jewels that more than others have found in the story of Carlo Luca della Quercia, there is the Serpenti series, one of the most famous jewel forms.

Bracciale Serpente con madreperla
Snake bracelet with mother of pearl

But that, to be realized as it should be, it needs a careful and expert working. Snakes are extensible bracelets of varying lengths, which can vary in length: from one lap to several laps. All are made entirely by hand, each single flange is connected to the next with retractable pins and with the introduction inside two gold springs extending in the opposite direction and they contribute to giving the maximum extension to the bracelet. Snake bracelets can only be gold in enamelled warm in different shades of gold in gold-plated mother of pearl, enriched with gemstones embedded in pavé on the head and beads in the eyes.
In short, in order to succeed it need have a great deal of expertise. And in fact, part of the company’s business takes place on behalf of major international Maison, which entrusts to their laboratory the realization of their own jewels.

Insomma, per riuscirci bisogna possedere una grande perizia. E infatti, parte della attività dell’azienda si svolge per conto di grandi Maison internazionali, che affidano al loro laboratorio la realizzazione di propri gioielli.

Anello in oro 18 carati, con zaffiro birmano, acquamarina e diamanti
18k gold ring, with Burmese sapphire, aquamarine and diamonds
Anello anni Sessanta con zaffiro di Ceylon di 18,16 carati e diamanti
1960s ring with 18.16 carat Ceylon sapphire and diamonds
Collana di smeraldi e ametista
Emerald and amethyst necklace
Anello serpente in oro, smalto, diamanti
Snake ring in gold, enamel, diamonds

The bespoke pieces of Fei Liu

The high jewelery by Fei Liu, a Chinese designer who chose England ♦ ︎

Have you ever heard of Chongqing? Probably not, if you are not Chinese. Yet it is a city of central and southern China with a population of about 7-8 million inhabitants, much like London. Perhaps this is why the designer, Fei Liu, when he landed in Britain, chose Birmingham to launch his own brand in 2006. It is a less cyclopic town, that perhaps leaves more room for those who live there and with a good tradition in jewelry.

Orecchini con zaffiri blu, tsavoriti, diamanti
Earrings with blue sapphires, tsavorites, diamonds

And so, Fei Liu in a few years has won a burst of awards. Alongside most of its production, innovative and direct to a vast audience (see also: Fei Liu, China in England), the designer works even at bespoke pieces, such as those on this page. For these pieces, he use platinum, gold and silver, in addition to precious stones, in truly original combinations, such as the white poppy-inspired brooch,with stem made with tsavorite, Australian opal for petals, and diamonds on the stamens like dewdrops, while a jade shines in the center.

Orecchini con topazio blu e quarzo citrino
Earrings with blue topaz and citrine quartz
Orecchini con turchese intagliato
Earrings with carved turquoise
Orecchini con opale e topazio
Earrings with opal and topaz
Orecchini in oro con tormalina verde e malachite
Gold earrings with green tourmaline and malachite

New high jewelry bu Sutra

The high jewelery of Sutra Jewels, with extraordinary pieces created by designer Arpita Navlakha ♦︎

It didn’t take long after its birth to see the Sutra Jewels collection on the red carpet at gala dinners, film festivals or fashion shows. Sutra jewels have been worn by Michelle Obama, Katy Perry, Jennifer Lopez, Halle Berry, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Taylor Swift, Adriana Lima, Catharine-Zeta Jones, Oprah, Olivia Wilde and Mila Kunis to name just a few celebrities. And to think that the Maison based in Texas, but founded in Mumbai by designer Arpita Navlakha, has just turned 15.

Read also: Sutra high jewelry

Orecchino con smeraldi. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earring with emeralds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Since its foundation, however, some things have changed. For example, in the last two years Sutra has introduced the use of jewelry ceramics in its pieces: a choice that has expanded the number of combinations of materials used. However, alongside the gold and ceramics, the intensely colored gems remained, together with the geometric textures that recall art deco style mandalas. A style that embraces Western taste, but with oriental grace and meticulousness in the creation of jewellery.

Bracciale con turchese, diamanti e ceramica. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Bracelet with turquoise, diamonds and ceramic. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Bracciale con tanzanite per 117 carati e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Bracelet with 117 carats tanzanite and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Bracciale con rubini per 126 carati e diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Bracelet with rubies for 126 carats and diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Bracciale in oro con diamanti e ceramica. Copyright: gioiellis.com Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gold bracelet with diamonds and ceramic. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Bracciale in oro con corallo rosa, diamanti brown e ceramica. Copyright: gioiellis.com Copyright: gioiellis.com Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gold bracelet with pink coral, brown diamonds and ceramic. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello con tanzanite di 18 carati e ceramica. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with 18 carat tanzanite and ceramic. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello fiore di loto in oro, diamanti bianchi e orange. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Lotus flower ring in gold, white and orange diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Boucheron’s soft high jewelry

The Vendôme column, which stands in the center of the famous Parisian square where the high jewelery houses are concentrated, is covered with a covering with a bronze bas-relief obtained, it is said, from the fusion of 1,200 cannons of the Russian and Austrian armies, defeated by Napoleon in the Battle of Austerlitz. What better background for the images of the new high jewelery collection by Boucheron, which has chosen to add bows and medals to traditional jewels, which are somewhat reminiscent of a military atmosphere? The Power of Couture, the collection presented in Paris, is not, however, a hymn to war. Instead, it follows the logic of high jewellery, with extraordinary workmanship for 24 extraordinary unique pieces.

Collana Tricot con diamanti e cristallo di rocca indossata
Tricot earrings and necklace with diamonds and rock crystal

As in the case of the Tricot necklace which, as the name suggests, is made like a dense knit. But with the use of rock crystal and diamonds instead of wool thread. A choker that required not only an elaborate design, but also a creation that required 1,070 hours of laboratory work. The choice is due, in addition to presenting a super precious jewel, also to an echo of the origins of the Maison, given that the founder Frédéric Boucheron a century and a half ago, before becoming a jeweler, had grown up among his father’s luxury fabrics fabric merchant. In any case, the necklace seems soft as if it were made of fabric, thanks to the small gems tied with thin threads of an alloy composed of nickel and titanium.
Collana Tricot: per realizzarla ci sono volute 1070 ore di lavoro
Tricot necklace: it took 1070 hours of work to make

The military echo emerges, however, with the aiguillette, a long ceremonial braid, which becomes a jewel in the shape of a braided cord made with satin-finished rock crystal. Two pins with symmetrical curves are instead intended to be pinned at shoulder height, a bit like the shoulder pads of generals in full uniform. These too, however, are transformed to be worn, joined together, like bracelets. They seem to be inspired by a tiara made by Boucheron in 1902 for the then Princess of Wales, while diamond and crystal medals can be worn, hanging from a rock crystal grosgrain ribbon. as a brooch or as a hair ornament.
Fiocco con cristallo di rocca e diamante a pera di oltre 45 carati
Bow with rock crystal and pear-shaped diamond of over 45 carats

The collection also includes less usual jewels, such as a frosted bow, also made from baguette-cut rock crystal. Also in this case the sensation is of a textile object. The bow is modular: it can be worn in six different ways thanks to the detachable elements. In the center it flaunts a large 4.05-carat pear-cut diamond: it can be detached and becomes a ring.

Gioielli The Power of Couture indossati davanti alla colonna di place Vendôme
The Power of Couture jewelery worn in front of the column on Place Vendôme

Celeste Wu’s unique jewels

Unique pieces of high jewellery, with movable, interchangeable parts: Celeste Wu‘s work is completely original. The designer put her calling into practice in 2009, while she was living in Paris. But she had already discovered the pleasure of drawing. Her style freely brings together different elements: from surrealism to art deco, from baroque to the Renaissance. One of her most recent works is a piece of high jewelry entitled Moon Fairy & Rose: a brooch that can also be used as a ring, or as a jewel for a choker or bracelet. The jewel is made up of different stones, from tsavorites to yellow sapphires, diamonds, mother-of-pearl, pearls: nine months of work were needed to create it.

Orecchini con giada e granato demantoide. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Earrings with jade and demantoid garnet. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The designer’s creations were exhibited at various art and fashion events while she lived on the French Riviera. You have participated in public events in Asia, but also in the seventh edition of GemGèneve. She offers unique pieces, such as earrings with white jade and tsavorites, made with precision and imagination.

Orecchini con diamanti, oro bianco, tsavoriti
Earrings with diamonds, white gold, tsavorites. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Celeste Wu. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Celeste Wu. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Spilla-ornamento per collana o bracciale Moon Fairy & Rose
Moon Fairy & Rose brooch-ornament for necklace or bracelet. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Traveling with Lydia Courteille among the Huichol

Since jewels were born as lucky objects, with magical as well as decorative powers, Lydia Courteille decided to create a collection inspired by the supernatural universe. This time the Parisian designer-artist has chosen shamanic mysticism as her guiding thread. And, in particular, to the rites and myths of the Huichol-Kawitu community, indigenous people of Mexico and the United States, who live in the Sierra Madre Occidental mountain range and in California, Arizona, New Mexico and Texas. On the other hand, artists have a special connection with the world of fantasy that seems spiritual.

La rappresentazione figurata della collezione Huichol
The figurative representation of the Huichol collection

Bright colors, enamels, symbols: Lydia Courteille’s jewelery series takes a journey through the atmospheres of the Mexican desert, with jewels full of symbolic meanings: it represents the meeting between sun and moon to chase away the darkness caused by eclipses. As in the Le Visage de l’eclipse (The Face of the Eclipse) bracelet inspired by shamanic singing. The bracelet testifies to the skill of the enamellers, with a Plique-à-jour colored glass effect. The bracelet is made of 18k gold, diamonds, yellow and orange sapphires, turquoises and enamel.
Bracciale Le Visage de l’eclipse
Bracelet Le Visage de l’eclipse

Another exceptional piece is the Frére-Ainé-Kauymari (Big Brother-Kauymari) necklace, a male god who took the form of a deer. The myths of that population pass through five major ritual sites, running during the day from East to West and throughout the year, from North to South, between the summer solstice and the winter solstice after reaching the zenith. The Huichol shaman, who sings for whole nights during the main seasonal rites, is transformed into a necklace with 18k gold pendant, black and white diamonds, tsavorites, green garnets, rubellite, stalactite. Alongside the pendant, the necklace features emeralds, diamonds, carnelian, green and blue pearls as well as stalactites.
Collana Frére Ainé Kauymari
Frére Ainé Kauyumari necklace

In Lydia Courteille’s shamanic journey there is also the ring Des Chamanes en Route (Shamans on the move). The finish line is Haramaratsia, for the Huichol the sacred place of Our Mother Ocean where the white rock of San Blas emerges. The ring evokes rites seasoned with the use of peyote, a hallucinogenic mushroom that offers lysergic experiences. Or the Vocabulaire de Huichol necklace, which brings together a series of symbols such as the Rock personified as the ancestors who left the sea transformed one after the other, three snakes united together that fall from above and represent the rain Or the earrings inspired by the hearth where Our Grandfather Fire rests, source of knowledge and inspiration of all shamans.
Collana Vocabulaire de Huichol
Vocabulaire de Huichol necklace

The Collier Notre-Mère-Jeune-Aigle (Our-Mother-Young-Eagle) is inspired by the painting The Path of the Souls of the Dead by Guadalupe Gonzales Rios, 1974. According to the mythology of the indigenous people, the death of the Huichol would be dominated by Our Mother Eagle, who guides the souls of the dead to their final resting place to neutralize them, to the shore of the Pacific Ocean. For this reason, shamans took the form of eagles, jaguars, snakes and other beings of which they carried elements and symbols. Feathers are one of the most worn ornaments. Eagle feathers personify the creator of the ancestors, regeneration and rebirth of the world.
Orecchini Ils écoutent notre grand père feu
Ils écoutent notre grand père feu earrings

The Tortue et la sécheresse (The Tortoise and the drought) ring is inspired by the birth of fire, the origin of the moon, sun or stars, and the dry season. While the Abeilles Huichol (Huichol Bees) ring refers to the painting The Bees Find Their Way by Yauxali, 1981. The bees find the hive in the figurative interpretation of ethnic taste. The collection does not lack a jewel dedicated to one of the pillars of culture, but above all of the survival of the population: corn. The Notre-Mère-Mais (Our-Mother-Mais) earrings. They are inspired by José Benitez Sanches’ painting The Transformations of Our Mother-Maize, 1985.

Collana della Nostra giovane aquila madre. Oro 18 carati, diamanti, diamanti neri, tsavoriti, zaffiri viola, onice cabochon, diaspro, opale di fuoco, smalto Plique-à-jour
Collier Notre Mère Jeune Aigle. Or 18k, diamants, diamants noirs, tsavorites, saphirs violets, onyx cabochon, jasper, opal de feu, email Plique-à-jour

Bracciale Le Visage de l’Eclipse, parte superiore
Le Visage de l’Eclipse bracelet, upper part

Anello Tortue et la sécheresse.  Oro 18k, diamanti neri, tsavorite, zaffiri, diamanti, tormalina bleue di 106,6 carati, smalto plique-à-jour
Tortue et la sécheresse ring. 18k gold, black diamonds, tsavorite, sapphires, diamonds, 106.6 carat blue tourmaline, plique-à-jour enamel

The nature of jewels according to Capucine H

Nature transformed into high jewellery: Capucine H is the name of a small French Maison that wants to use its creations to defend the environment. And not in words: Capucine Huguet travels to remote places, in contact with scientific researchers, to testify to her closeness to the problems associated with climate change. And this interest is reflected in her work. For example, the 78° North brooch refers to the latitude of Longyearbyen, the village where Capucine stayed during her trip to Svalbard in Northern Norway in 2019, while she studied the glaciers of the North Pole. This is why her first collection is called Wahlenbergbreen mementos, inspired by a trip to the Arctic together with a group of scientists. Another collection is called Téthys, the name of a micro plankton that lives in the oceans.

Spilla in oro con citrino, argento, zaffiri gialli e orange. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Gold brooch with citrine, silver, yellow and orange sapphires. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Jewelery is therefore an exercise in style, but also in environmental awareness. Her creations, for example, are made in artisan workshops in Paris, from recycled gold and silver. And the diamonds are recovered from other jewelry or are ethically mined. The same goes for precious and semi-precious stones. The designer is also precocious: she founded her brand in 2018 at just 23 years old after a Master of Jewelery Design at the Central Saint Martins School in London. Previously, she studied for four years at the Haute Ecole de Joaillerie de Paris, where she learned the basics of the craft and after her internships at Maisons such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Spilla in oro bianco, con topazio di 100 carati taglio custom. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Brooch in white gold, with 100 carat custom cut topaz. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Anello a due dita Broken Snowflake in argento riciclato
Broken Snowflake two-finger ring in recycled silver
Spilla 78° North in oro riciclato, argento, quarzo, tormalina, spinello, zaffiri, diamanti
78° North brooch in recycled gold, silver, quartz, tourmaline, spinel, sapphires, diamonds
Capucine H, anello in oro 18 carati, zirconi, granati, diamanti cognac
Capucine H, 18k gold ring, zircons, garnets, cognac diamonds
Anello Ivy Queen in oro bianco 18 carati riciclato, perla grigia, spinello e 34 diamanti riciclati
Ivy Queen ring in recycled 18k white gold, gray pearl, spinel and 34 recycled diamonds

Pomellato high jewelry inspired by Milan

Born in 1967, at the same time as the success of the great Italian fashion houses, the Milanese Pomellato has climbed the steps of success by bringing the concept of prêt-à-porter into jewelry. Luxurious, yet understated. Design, but without exaggerating. Simple shapes but not simplistic. Jewels that immediately appealed to the Milanese ladies and, later, to those of other cities. over the years the ability to interpret a fashion without excesses has crossed the Italian borders in parallel with the identification of Milan as one of the world capitals of design. Pomellato was bought by the French group Kering about ten years ago for this reason.

Anello Castello in oro rosa, diamanti, rubellite
Castello ring in pink gold, diamonds, rubellite

Something has changed since then. Pomellato, thanks to the thrust of the Parisian luxury giant, has been brought to international markets and, in part, has added to its sobriety an increasingly marked flavor of high-end jewels. Now the creative director, Vincenzo Cataldo, has decided to combine the high jewelery line, introduced three years ago, with the echo of the brand’s roots. For this reason, the new collection is inspired by Milan.
Orecchini Terrazza Duomo in oro giallo e diamanti
Terrace Duomo earrings in yellow gold and diamonds

The pieces in the range, which combine precious stones with design tradition, are named after places known to tourists too, such as the Duomo (the neo-Gothic cathedral) or the city’s Castle, but also to the most modern skyscrapers. The collection consists of four lines: Vertical Landscapes, Contemporary Heritage, Creativity on Stage and Terrazza Duomo. One of the most striking pieces is probably the Castello necklace, made up of pink gold plates connected by links studded with diamonds of different shapes: over 28 carats of brilliant, baguette, princess and round cut gems, plus five rubellites for 29 carats. A chain, attached to the choker is removable.

Catena body in oro rosa e diamanti
Body chain in rose gold and diamonds
Collana con catena Lariat in oro e diamanti
Lariat chain necklace in gold and diamonds
Collana Lirica, oro diamanti
Lirica necklace, gold diamonds
Girocollo Terrazza Duomo in oro rosa e diamanti
Terrace Duomo necklace in rose gold and diamonds
Orecchini Castello con diamanti e tanzanite
Castello earrings with diamonds and tanzanite
Orecchini Terrazza Duomo in oro bianco e diamanti
Terrace Duomo earrings in white gold and diamonds
Orecchini Terrazza Duomo in oro rosa e diamanti
errace Duomo earrings in rose gold and diamonds

Joseph Gad, life in green

The green philosophy of Joseph Gad: at the center of great jewels put great emeralds ♦

Green is the color of grass, of hope and of emeralds. And it is the color that the Gad family has chosen, which continues the tradition of the founder, Joseph Gad, who in 1960 embarked on the path of high jewelery. With a marked preference for green, ie for emeralds, even if it offers jewelery with other gems. And, more particularly, for the emeralds of Colombia, occasionally combined with diamonds or sapphires and rubies. Since then it has become the world’s leading source of precious and rare and rare diamonds.

Anello in oro bianco con smeraldo e diamanti taglio marquise
Anello in oro bianco con smeraldo e diamanti taglio marquise

In 1968, the Gad family became an exclusive partner of the Muzo Mine in Bogata, Colombia. In 1975 the Gad family was instrumental in legalizing the export of emeralds from Colombia to the United States. As a pioneer member of the Responsible Jewelry Council, in any case, the Maison of New York City is committed to ethically finding all the materials, all of which are traceable.

Parure di diamanti e smeraldi
Parure di diamanti e smeraldi

All emeralds are cut and polished at home, with the aim of enhancing their qualities.

However, jewels made with large emeralds are not the only ones. Joseph Gad also designs and manufactures great jewels with other precious stones. In addition, the company also buys vintage jewelry, especially those with exceptional emeralds. Margherita Donato

Joseph Gad, anello con smeraldo taglio smeraldo
Joseph Gad, anello con smeraldo taglio smeraldo
Orecchini pendenti con smeraldi e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti con smeraldi e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti con smeraldi taglio pera e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti con smeraldi taglio pera e diamanti
Orecchini pendenti con smeraldi taglio pera e diamanti marquise
Orecchini pendenti con smeraldi taglio pera e diamanti marquise
Orecchini con smeraldi e diamanti fancy yellow
Orecchini con smeraldi e diamanti fancy yellow
Orecchini con smeraldi e diamanti taglio marquise
Orecchini con smeraldi e diamanti taglio marquise
Anello con rubino e diamanti
Anello con rubino e diamanti
Anello con zaffiro taglio smeraldo
Anello con zaffiro taglio smeraldo
Orecchini con zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini con zaffiri e diamanti
Orecchini con rubino e diamanti
Orecchini con rubini e diamanti

Tenzo, spells of a gem-hunter

The magic of Tenzo, a Russian gem hunter able to excite with his jewels ♦

There are those who call him a gem-hunter, a sort of Indiana Jones in search of the extraordinary stone to be set in his jewels. Certainly Alexander Tenzo, a high jewelry designer based in Tallinn, Estonia, but with constant ubiquity, from Switzerland to the United States, is part of the small patrol of gem artists. He is able, for example, to carve an emerald with a unique ability, or to use precious stones with unusual shapes. In addition to choosing lesser-known gems, such as alexandrite, chrysoberyl, spessartite, along with tourmalines, rubies or diamonds.

Anello in platino con tsavorite di 10,9 carati, zaffiri, diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Platinum ring with 10.9 carat tsavorite, sapphires, diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

For each creation, Tenzo tries to show the hidden soul of the stones. “I always have to start from what a stone can tell me”, confirms the artist-jeweler to gioiellis.com on one of the rare occasions when he agrees to talk about his work. The designer founded his small workshop in 1996 and soon the fame of his ability has managed to cross national borders. His unique, teased pieces unite the ancient traditions of jewelry, which in Russia are often Fabergé’s legacy, his eclectic compositional ability.

Collana con diamanti, spinelli birmani rosa. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Necklace with diamonds, pink Burmese spinels. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Alexander Tenzo’s professional career began with a trip to Sri Lanka. On the large island located south of India, he discovered a passion for gems. For several years, Alexander has been involved in the extraction and cutting of gems, from Asia to Africa. An experience that led him to transform himself into a jewelry designer, capable of carving stones to transform them into surprising works of art.

Anello con smeraldo intagliato di 18,38 carati. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with carved emerald of 18.38 carats. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Alexander Tenzo. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Orecchini con spinelli naturali e diamanti
Earrings with natural spinels and diamonds
Anello in oro bianco, pietra luna, spessartine
Ring in white gold, moonstone, Spessartite
Orecchini con oro bianco e giallo, diamanti grigi, gialli e bianchi
Earrings with white and yellow gold, gray, yellow and white diamonds
Pendente in oro giallo e argento, spinello, zaffiri, diamanti
Pendant in yellow gold and silver, spinel, sapphires, diamonds
Orecchini in oro giallo e argento, spinello rosa e rosso
Earrings in yellow gold and silver, pink and red spinel
Orecchini con granato demantoide, diamanti
Earrings with demantoid garnet, diamonds
Spilla intagliata con morganite, crisoberillo, spessartite, tormalina, crisoprasio
Brooch carved with morganite, chrysoberyl, famartite, tourmaline, chrysoprase
Anello con rubino e diamanti taglio marquise
Ring with ruby and marquise cut diamonds
Anello con zaffiro cabochon e diamanti
Ring with cabochon sapphire and diamonds

The divine creations of Diva Jewels

Diva, a word that in common language indicates a female pagan divinity, or a woman who, due to her own talents or in the feeling of a poet, rises above the others and, finally, also a singer or actress of great fame. There is, however, also another possibility: the Maison Diva Jewels of Mumbai, capable of making rings, brooches or bracelets divine. The creations of Diva Jewels are the fruit of the imagination and ingenuity of Rishi Mukesh Mehta: designer and artist capable of transforming an idea into incredibly complex jewels, outside the mold of traditional jewellery.

Anello a due dita in oro rosa, diamanti, zaffiri, rubini, smeraldi
Two finger ring in rose gold, diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds

Behind the designer is the family company founded in 1995 by his father, the visionary artist Mukesh Mehta. Rishi’s path is therefore consistent with his story. The brand is also one of the few maisons capable of following both the design and sale of custom-made jewellery. All Diva Jewels creations are unique pieces, handmade, with brilliant-cut diamonds and rare stones. Each processing step is carried out internally in the company: an aspect that not only allows greater control of the quality of the jewel, but also significantly shortens times.
Rishi Mukesh Mehta. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Rishi Mukesh Mehta. Copyright: gioiellis.com

One of the characteristics of the Indian brand’s high jewelery consists not only in the aesthetic aspect, but also in the manufacturing techniques. For example, he prefers to add a dynamic element to jewels, with the en tremblant technique, that is, small moving parts, such as bird wings that can move. Examples of what the Maison is capable of achieving, such as the Dance of Brilliance collection, were presented at GemGenève.

Spilla Scarlet Macao indossata. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Worn Scarlet Macao brooch. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri blu. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Brooch in white gold, diamonds, blue sapphires. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Spilla in oro bianco, diamanti, zaffiri blu. Le ali si possono muovere. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Brooch in white gold, diamonds, blue sapphires. The wings can move. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Diva Jewels, alta gioielleria applicata a  una calzatura
Diva Jewels, high jewelery applied to a shoe. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Spilla rotante in oro rosa, diamanti, zaffiri rosa, perla. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Rotating brooch in rose gold, diamonds, pink sapphires, pearl. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello in oro con diamanti e rubini, montato su un gambo a tubogas
Gold ring with diamonds and rubies, mounted on a gas tube shank. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Il retro dell'anello con il gambo a tubogas
The back of the ring with the gas tube shank. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Difa Jewels, anello a due dita Cherry Blossom, in oro rosa con diamanti, rubini, smeraldim zaffiri. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Diva Jewels, Cherry Blossom two-finger ring, in rose gold with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Chaumet high jewelry with Josephine

A collection of Chaumet jewels recalls Marie-Josèphe-Rose Tascher de La Pagerie, better known as Josephine of Beauharnais, first wife of Emperor Napoleon from 1796 to 1809. She was Empress of the French from 1804 to 1809 and Queen of Italy from 1805 to 1809. To her, Joséphine, Chaumet dedicates the Joséphine-l’Aigrette V line, jewels that include two new sets: one in white gold, the other in rose gold. The jewels are made with diamonds in various cuts and settings, on delicately perforated pieces that recall the light lace of the fashion of the time.

Orecchini in oro rosa e diamanti
Rose gold and diamond earrings

The V-shape of the Aigrette is the characteristic feature, as are the pear-cut gems which seems to have been the queen’s favourite. Diamonds, but also rubies and sapphires are presented with this teardrop shape. And, again with a pear geometry, the collection also offers a series of watches, which combine the original shape with a gold detail with the upside-down V. The dial is surrounded by a rose gold border dotted with diamonds, while the crocodile leather straps come in a suite of colours.

Anello Aigrette in oro bianco e diamanti
Aigrette ring in white gold and diamonds
Anello Josèphine Duo in oro bianco, rubino e e diamanti
Josèphine Duo ring in white gold, ruby and diamonds
Collana Josèphine Duo in oro bianco, rubino e e diamante a pera
Josèphine Duo necklace in white gold, ruby and pear-shaped diamond
Orologio della collezione Joséphine-l'Aigrette V con cinturino rosso
Watch from the Joséphine-l’Aigrette V collection with red strap
Collier con diamanti e zaffiro taglio pera
Necklace with diamonds and pear-cut sapphire
Collana con ciondolo in oro bianco e diamanti
Necklace with pendant in white gold and diamonds

High jewelry by Osi Vitoria

Hong Kong has long been one of the world centers of fine jewellery. Flowers, leaves and animals are the main sources of inspiration for jewelery artists such as Vitoria Wu, founder of the Osi Vitoria brand in 2012. With a family of jewelers behind her, Vitoria Wu has chosen the difficult art of other jewelery in its best expressions. Like other protagonists of the Chinese path to jewellery, the brand often uses a titanium base for its precious sculptures. This metal, which is difficult to work with, however has the advantage of being light, resistant and suitable for the creation of unusual shapes and processes.

Anello pesce con opale intagliato, acquamarina, spinelli, titanio. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Fish ring with carved opal, aquamarine, spinels, titanium. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The materials are used to combine abstract art forms with elements inspired by nature, which are associated with Chinese poems such as “Drunk celestial beings, overwhelming white clouds” or “I am the only sober one among all the drunks”. They are jewels that require a long planning and even more delicate creation: hundreds of stones cover the surfaces with shades created by the gems thanks to the skill of the setters in positioning the stones.

osi vitoria anello spinello birmano zaffiri diamanti 2 copyright gioiellis
Ring with Burmese spinel, sapphires, diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Spilla anemone, con rubino di 5,6 carati, diamanti bianchi e rosa, titanio
Anemone brooch, with 5.6 carat ruby, white and pink diamonds, titanium. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Vitoria Wu
Vitoria Wu. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Spilla piuma di pavone in titanio, con spinelli, giada bianca, smeraldi, diamanti.
Peacock feather brooch in titanium, with spinels, white jade, emeralds, diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Spilla polipo, con spinelli, diamanti, smeraldi, titanio
Octopus brooch, with spinels, diamonds, emeralds, titanium. Copyright: gioiellis.com
osi vitoria spilla fiore zaffiro viola titanio diamanti copyright gioiellis
Flower brooch with diamonds, purple sapphire, sapphires, spinels, diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Spilla calla indossata
Calla lily brooch worn.Copyright: gioiellis.com

Palmiero, an explorer in high jewelery

High jewelery signed Palmiero, an explorer in the world of precious design. To which are added equally valuable watches ♦ ︎
It seems that the surname Palmiero has an ancient origin. He designated Christian pilgrims who had gone to Palestine in the Middle Ages, a land of palm trees. Palmiero became the name of a palm bearer. Perhaps the origins of family names are of little importance, but in the case of Carlo Palmiero, founder of the Palmiero Jewelery Design brand, there is some connection. In fact, 30 years ago, Carlo Palmiero went on a pilgrimage on a difficult journey, that of high jewelery. But without limiting himself to a courtesy visit: in Valenza, in the company that bears his name, he infused the taste of discovery, of adventure. As a true courageous pilgrim in search of the sacred Grail of design.

Anello della collezione Rise of Sun in oro e diamanti
Ring from the Rise of Sun collection in gold and diamonds

The jewels of Palmiero, thanks to the drive towards the discovery of new horizons, are exceptional pieces, as evidenced by the latest creations of the Maison. For example,Dancing Soul Collection, a necklace with a flexible core recorded in white gold with diamonds and rubies. Or Melting Colors, earrings in white diamonds and degradé pink sapphires on white gold, earrings in white, colored diamonds and semiprecious stones on white gold: wearing the jewel the parts move alternately. Or the Rise of Sun collection, where the sun’s rays are interpreted by folds of the gold surface, illuminated by cascades of diamonds.
Palmiero, anello della collezione Rise of Sun indossato
Palmiero, ring from the Rise of Sun collection. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Anello Rise of Sun in oro, diamanti, smalto rosso
Rise of Sun ring in gold, diamonds, red enamel

Orecchini Rise of Sun in oro, diamanti
Rise of Sun earrings in gold, diamonds
Collana e anello Rise of Sun
Rise of Sun necklace and ring. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Carlo Palmiero
Carlo Palmiero. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Wallis Hong’s fascinating sculpture jewels

The story of Wallis Hong, the new name of high jewelery and the surprise of the latest GemGèneve, is a special story. He himself tells the most important stages in his life which has the contours of a fairy tale. Raised in a remote location in China (Wan Song), by an artist mother and a largely absent father, Wallis Hong spent a childhood amidst the beauties and dangers of nature, including reminiscent of close encounters with spiders, snakes and poisonous mushrooms. But also with the fascination for colorful butterflies (this has to do with his current activity), flowers and colorful fish.

Spilla Eternal Butterfly (lato), ispirata ai ricordi infantili del designer. Le pietre preziose sulle ali sono ispirate alle goccioline d'acqua viste sulla farfalla. È realizzata con Acquamarina, centrale di 7,31 carati zaffiri colorati, diamanti bianchi, tsavoriti, titanio, platino, perle
Spilla Eternal Butterfly (lato), ispirata ai ricordi infantili del designer. Le pietre preziose sulle ali sono ispirate alle goccioline d’acqua viste sulla farfalla. È realizzata con Acquamarina, centrale di 7,31 carati zaffiri colorati, diamanti bianchi, tsavoriti, titanio, platino, perle

Not only. In the heart of Wallis Hong there is also the time spent with his devoted Buddhist grandfather, who built a temple, this time in Cai Shan. Or the time spent with his mother wearing the jewels and clothes she used in his life as a musician and collector. After an experience as assistant director in Beijing, where he aspired to an acting career, the future designer moved to Madrid, Spain, for love and to experience new air. It was 2016 and in the Spanish city Wallis Hong studied sculpture and painting at the Madrid Academy of Art, alternating time with work in the Hermès boutique, where once he also had Queen Letizia Ortiz as a client.

La spilla Eternal Butterfly
La spilla Eternal Butterfly by Wallis Hong

But it was an encounter with René Lalique’s masterpiece, The Lady of the Dragonfly, at the Calouste Gulbenkian museum in Lisbon, that brought out the passion for jewelry. Or, more precisely, for high sculptural and technically avant-garde jewelry, with large volume earrings, but light because they are made of titanium, or a butterfly-shaped brooch which is the most striking piece of his production.

Spilla Ethereal Butterfly. Zaffiri colorati, tormalina rosa di 24 carati al centri, diamanti bianchi, titanio, platino
Spilla Ethereal Butterfly. Zaffiri colorati, tormalina rosa di 24 carati al centri, diamanti bianchi, titanio, platino

To learn the techniques of jewelry in February 2019 Wallis left his job at Hermès and returned to China. He was lucky: he accidentally met a goldsmith master with 30 years of experience in jewelry making. Or perhaps it would be more precise to define them as sculptures, unique pieces to wear. And which, according to Wallis Hong, are destined to last over time, a century or more, like works of art.

Orecchini in titanio, con rubini sangue di piccione, zaffiri. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Titanium earrings, with pigeon blood rubies, sapphires. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Spilla in titanio, smeraldo colombiano di 23 carati, tsavoriti, diamanti. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Titanium brooch, 23-carat Colombian emerald, tsavorites, diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Spilla coccodrillo in titanio, zaffiri padparadscha, zaffiri multicolo, diamanti fancy. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Titanium crocodile brooch, padparadscha sapphires, multicolour sapphires, fancy diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Paradise Earrings, ispirati alle conchiglie di Ibiza e Formentera. Diamanti bianchi, zaffiri colorati, titanio, platino
Paradise Earrings, inspired by the shells of Ibiza and Formentera. White diamonds, colored sapphires, titanium, platinum
Siren Earrings, in titanio, diamanti, zaffiri colorati
Siren Earrings, in titanium, platinum, diamonds, colored sapphires
Wallis Hong ha creato anche elaborati quadranti per orologi
Wallis Hong also created elaborate watch dials. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Quadrante di orologio con soggetto marino
Clock dial with marine subject
Quadrante di orologio con pietre preziose, smalto
Watch dial with precious stones, enamel
Wallis Hong, orecchino indossato
Wallis Hong, earring worn. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Thorn Shells Earrings indossato. Zaffiri colorati, diamanti bianchi, tsavorite, titanio, platino
Worn Thorn Shells Earrings. Colored sapphires, white diamonds, tsavorite, titanium, platinum. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Wallis Hong. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Wallis Hong. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Soft Picchiotti rings, but is high jewelry

Soft, flexible, comfortable: but above all high jewellery. Picchiotti presents new pieces from its Xpandable collection, a patented system that allows rings and bracelets to adapt to the shape of the body. An appreciated quality, but hardly available to those who purchase high jewellery. For example, a ring with a pear-cut emerald surrounded by baguette diamonds, while other emeralds embrace the stem of the jewel. Or another ring, also with an emerald, but in this case with the classic emerald cut, framed by other diamonds.

Anello con smeraldo taglio pera e diamanti baguette. Copyright: gioiellis.com
Ring with pear-cut emerald and baguette diamonds. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Again with Xpandable technology, but classified as cocktail rings, there are three rings, each of which, alongside the diamonds, features three side-by-side precious stones: sapphire, ruby and emerald. They are top jewels. The sapphire ring, for example, has a 6.67-carat Sri Lankan stone in the center, flanked by two other sapphires of 2.65 and 2.54 carats. Another version of this model features three diamonds for a total of 6 carats plus a frame made up of almost 3 carats of blue sapphires.

Anello e bracciale con diamanti e zaffiri della collezione Xpandable
Ring and bracelet with diamonds and sapphires from the Xpandable collection
Anello con diamante fancy yellow e due rubini
Ring with fancy yellow diamond and two rubies

Anelli cocktail con rubini, zaffiri blu, smeraldi e diamanti
Cocktail rings with rubies, blue sapphires, emeralds and diamonds

Bracciale in oro e diamanti by Picchiotti
Gold and diamond bracelet by Picchiotti. Copyright: gioiellis.com

The Vita of Gismondi series 1754

A unique piece, high jewelery with an exceptional design: the Vita (means Life) necklace, presented by Gismondi 1754 is a jewel that differs from all the others. Designed by the creative director and owner of the Genoese company Massimo Gismondi, the necklace is a jewel that literally floats in the air. A design that also inspired the name given to the necklace: Vita, inspired by Gismondi’s son, ready to take flight on his journey into adulthood. The center of gravity of the jewel is a pear-cut tanzanite of 56.37 carats, wrapped and supported by 63.21 carats of diamonds, including a pear-cut that closes one of the two ends of the necklace.

Vita, Gismondi 1754
Vita, Gismondi 1754

The creation of the jewel, which has a strong symbolic value, also represented a difficult goldsmith undertaking by the Maison’s artisans, given that the construction of the jewel is suspended and there is no setting to block the tanzanite. Light and brilliant, the necklace becomes part of the Gismondi 1754 high jewelery line.
Massimo Gismondi
Massimo Gismondi. Copyright: gioiellis.com

Collana con una tanzanite tagliata a goccia di 56,37 carati, avvolta e sorretta da 63,21 carati di diamanti
Necklace with a pear-cut tanzanite of 56.37 carats, wrapped and supported by 63.21 carats of diamonds

Giorgio B, a new Bulgari in the jewellery

His name is Bulgari, he designs and creates fine jewelry. But not for the Italian brand that has become part of the Lvmh group. However, Giorgio Bulgari is part of the family of Roman jewelers, great-grandson of the founder Sotirio Bulgari and son of Gianni Bulgari. He has recently decided to put his ability and creativity to good use, which is part of his DNA. He works in Geneva and has launched his own jewelery brand, Giorgio B, because with the sale of the family business to the Parisian giant he cannot use the Bulgari surname. But it is not a sudden decision. Before presenting his Maison, Giorgio Bulgari has a profitable career as a jewelry designer behind him: since 2017 he has been creating unique pieces dedicated to a limited clientele.

Anello con topazio di 29 carati su oro bianco, diamanti e smalto azzurro
Ring with 29-carat topaz on white gold, diamonds and light blue enamel

However, high jewelery was not his first love. The jeweler born in New York and raised in Rome, studied art and advertising at Boston University, then worked in the world of finance before joining his father, who had founded a watch company in Switzerland. Giorgio Bulgari’s curriculum also includes an experience in Ferragamo in 2011, and the role of creative director of Marina B, a brand founded by his aunt Marina Bulgari and now owned by Guy Bedarida. The jewels, unique pieces, under the Giorgio B brand aim at an audience that loves innovation and colours, as is the family tradition. Rose gold and even large stones are the designer’s favorite materials.

Anello asimmetrico in oro rosa e malachite
Asymmetric ring in rose gold and malachite
Giorgio Bulgari
Giorgio Bulgari
Anello con zaffiri naturali arcobaleno
Natural rainbow sapphire ring
Anello in oro rosa con rubino e diamanti taglio vecchia miniera
Rose gold ring with ruby and old mine cut diamonds

Kamyen, luxury reserved for the few

In about ten years, Kamyen has earned a place among the high-end jewelery houses. It was founded by Pooja Gandhi, the latest generation of an Indian family that has been operating for almost a century in the sector of precious stones and the production of diamonds. It only takes a few steps to go from precious stones to jewels, but the leap may not necessarily be successful. In Kamyen’s case, however, it was a success. And, even if the Maison was born in Mumbai, the style of the jewels is very far from the indian traditional one. This is thanks to the exclusive collaboration with the main Pakistani designer, Faraz Manan, who has given the jewelry and high-end jewelry collections a modern character.

Anello Gemini in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti brown e bianco da 2,44 carati, smalto nero
Anello Gemini in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti brown e bianco da 2,44 carati, smalto nero

Furthermore, Pooja’s family has been able to manage the production of jewelry according to the best commercial principles. The jewelry factory and workshop in Mumbai employs around 120 people and is under the direct control of the Gandhi family. The diamonds are all of high quality and are not from conflict zones, with a certificate accompanying each gem. And more, Kamyen’s strategy does not (for now) provide for the opening of boutiques. The collections can be viewed by appointment only, based in Dubai, or can be purchased online on some e-commerce platforms, such as Moda Operandi.
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, rubino, smalto e smeraldo
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, rubino, smalto e smeraldo

Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, rubino e diamanti
Anello in oro bianco 18 carati, rubino, smalto e diamanti
Orecchini chandelier in oro bianco 18 carati e smalto
Orecchini chandelier in oro bianco 18 carati e smalto
Orecchini Ali d'angelo in oro bianco, diamanti e smalto nero
Orecchini Ali d’angelo in oro bianco, diamanti e smalto nero
Girocollo The Rising Sun in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smalto rosso
Girocollo The Rising Sun in oro bianco 18 carati, diamanti e smalto rosso
Orecchini Galaxy in oro bianco, diamanti e smalto
Orecchini Galaxy in oro bianco, diamanti e smalto
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