Anello con diamante di 13,70 carati di Bulgari
Anello con diamante di 13,70 carati di Bulgari

How to choose a diamond

How to choose the diamond for a jewel? Here are 9 useful tips to avoid bad surprises.

As a gift, for your own pleasure or as an investment: buying a jewel with one or more diamonds is often considered a safe choice. But you have to be careful: in addition to identifying the type of jewel you want to get, in most cases it is a ring, you need to avoid the most common mistakes. So here are 9 tips to avoid mistakes when choosing a diamond jewel.

Analisi di un diamante
Examination of a diamond

1 Choose a retailer with a good reputation
It is much more difficult for a well-known jeweler to be tempted to offer a diamond that is of poor quality or does not match the description of the one being offered for sale. A jeweler’s reputation is very similar to that of a bank: no one would open an account if they suspected they were carrying out a risky operation. The good reputation of a jeweler is certainly not an absolute guarantee, but it is a good start.

Valutazione di un diamante di Rubin & Zonen
Appraisal of a diamond by Rubin & Zonen

2 Check the 4C
Clarity, cut, color and weight (carat) are the first attributes that determine the value of a diamond (see also here). Before buying a diamond, learn these fundamental notions that determine the value of the stone. And keep in mind that diamonds classified in color D are the best, but they also cost much more than those in category G. Yet few, when you wear a ring, will be able to recognize the difference.

I colori dei diamanti
The colors of diamonds

3 Ask a certification
Naturally, all the characteristics of the diamond must be certified by an impartial body. For diamonds, a certification known and considered reliable internationally is that of the Gia, the American gemological institute. But there are also others, such as those of the High Council of Diamonds (Hrd, Hoge Raad voor Diamant), or the certificate of the International Gemological Institute (Igi), etc. In summary: do not buy a diamond without a certificate. However, keep in mind that very small and light diamonds are often not sold with a certificate. Another problem that should not be underestimated is the risk that the certificate is fake. This also happens, but fortunately it is not frequent. However, many diamonds, even small ones, are marked with an invisible (to the naked eye) laser code: an aspect that you can verify.

Un esempio di certificato, quello dell'IGI, Istituto Gemmologico Italiano
An example of a certificate, that of IGI, the Italian Gemological Institute

4 The cut
It is a mistake to think that color and purity are the main things. Another important characteristic, capable of influencing the cost of a stone, is the type of cut. It is perhaps the most difficult aspect to evaluate if you are not an expert. But, for example, a diamond with a cut that is too deep will make a smaller principal surface area of the stone relative to the weight. The result is that it will shine less. A well cut diamond will also be easier to resell in the future and will produce more intense reflected light. Furthermore, the type of cut also influences the perception of the color of the diamond.

Diamante taglio cuscino di Great Diam
Cushion cut diamond by Great Diam

5 Alone or with others?
Is it better to buy a diamond mounted on a jewel, or a single stone to keep in the bank? Maybe the right thing is neither one nor the other. There is a third solution: buy a single diamond, already cut, in order to observe its proportions well, and then have it mounted on a jewel. In this way there is the guarantee that even the non-visible part of the jewel is cut well, and in addition you can wear the jewel.

Anello di Boucheron in platino, con diamante di 11 carati
Ring by Boucheron in platinum, with an 11-carat diamond

6 Colourless or fancy?
For years the prices of colored diamonds have been on the rise. But choosing a colored diamond is more difficult, although a certification that specifies the type and grade of color helps. In general, the more vibrant the color, the higher the price. But be prepared to write a check with lots of zeros. On the other hand, the purchase of a jewel with a brightly colored diamond (yellow is the most common) could be a good deal in perspective, given that the value of these stones is in great demand.

Anello Sunlight Journey, in oro rosa 18K con 1 diamante giallo taglio coussin (FVY-VS2 - circa 4,02 carati), spinelli rosa, diamanti gialli e diamanti
Sunlight Journey ring, in 18K rose gold with 1 cushion-cut yellow diamond (FVY-VS2 – approx. 4.02 carats), pink spinels, yellow diamonds by Piaget

7 Better a neutral light
A piece of advice: when you go to the jewelry store they will show you the jewels illuminated by small spotlights that focus the light on the jewels. They are made to enhance the reflections of diamonds, which shine more. However, ask to observe the diamond with a neutral light, as happens in normal life situations. You will get the idea of how shiny the stone you want to buy can be. By moving the jewel slightly in the light, you can verify the reflective capacity of the stone: a good indication to evaluate its purity and correct cut.

Gioielleria a Milano
Jewelry shop in Milan

8 A different idea
Even if the diamond that is offered to you looks fantastic, spend a handful of minutes in two or three other jewelers: comparing jewels and prices is always the right thing to do. Of course you have to take into account the quality of the diamond and its weight. By the way, here’s another tip: choose diamonds that have an “odd” weight. For example, a 0.49 carat diamond will cost much less than a 0.51 carat diamond, even if it is practically indistinguishable to the eye. The price varies greatly if it exceeds 1 carat.

Anello con diamante taglio rotondo di circa 13,70 carati firmato Bulgari
Ring with a round cut diamond of approximately 13.70 carats by Bulgari

9 Ask for a guarantee
Many jewelers offer a guarantee on the stone you are buying. Do not be ashamed to ask for it: grant it is also a great advertisement for the same jewelers.

Laboratorio Garavelli, la scelta delle pietre
Garavelli, the choice of stones

 

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